PLACES

THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS

Carmel offers intimate indulgences on land and by sea

BY ALISON BAILIN BATZ

SEEE MONTEREY

PHOTO COURTESY OF When it comes to Carmel, much like caramel, taking the time to enjoy two – as in two different regions that often share the same name – is better than just one. Located on California’s central coast between Monterey and Big Sur, Carmel-by-the-Sea – often just called Carmel – is the walkable seaside city littered with wine-tasting rooms, restaurants and cozy inns where Clint Eastwood once served as mayor. Carmel Valley is technically a census-designated place that lies inland from Carmel by 13 miles. Warmer and greener, Carmel Valley boasts wide open spaces, dozens of vineyards and sprawling resorts. Both are easily accessible via a two-hour flight from Phoenix, and together they represent the best of the Golden State.

Carmel

Measuring 1 square mile, Carmel’s epicenter looks like a scene from a storybook. Many of the buildings resemble a fancier version of the dwarfs’ cottage from Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs, and that is no accident. A quaint yet chic escape for artists, authors and auteurs for more than 100 years, the architecture is a cross between Tudor Revival and Spanish Romantic Revival dotted with nearly two dozen actual fairy-tale-inspired cottages designed by Hugh Comstock in the 1920s. However, don’t let the old-world design fool you as Carmel is among the most luxe of vacation destinations in North America. Named among Travel + Leisure’s Top 15 Cities in the United States in 2020, there are more than 40 charming inns in and around the heart of the city, notably The Hideaway and The Getaway. Located downtown, The Hideaway features just 24 rooms and suites with gas fireplaces and cozy nooks tailor-made for romance as well as daily sunset happy hour gatherings. Just outside of the main downtown and steps from the Pacific Ocean is The Getaway, similarly small with just 34 dog-friendly rooms and suites. The boutique hotel offers ample outdoor space, bikes to explore the area and a host of amenities for guests’ four-legged friends including plush dog beds and specialty treats. Each of the city’s accommodations is smart to offer a direct path by foot to Ocean Avenue. The road is aptly named because, if taken west, it ends on the sandy white Carmel Beach. Popular for surfers, one of the coolest things to do while in town beyond hopping on a board or enjoying a quick dip is to walk, jog or ride a bike along the Scenic Bluff Path, a safe garden-lined trail along the coast that offers views of nearby Pebble Beach and Point Lobos. Ocean Avenue also leads to all of the action in the downtown square including historical and art walking tours; dozens of boutiques, antique stores and galleries along cobblestone paths; and more than 60 coffeehouses, bakeries, pubs, bistros and restaurants. Of particular note are Seventh & Dolores, a buzzy

and sophisticated fine dining option where the chefs cook fresh seafood from nearby Monterey Bay and 28-day dry-aged steaks in a glass-encased kitchen; La Bicyclette, an old-world-inspired bistro one might find in the European countryside; and Alvarado Street Brewery & Bistro, which excels at offering California coastal cuisine paired with its own brews. Beyond culinary delights, there are also nearly 20 wine-tasting rooms tucked into the downtown, including Caraccioli Cellars, Holman Ranch, Scratch Wines, Manzoni Cellars, Hahn Family Wines, Albatross Ridge, Galante Vineyards, and Silvestri Vineyards.

Carmel Valley

While Carmel has the tasting rooms, Carmel Valley has the vineyards. And though just a 20-minute drive inland, Carmel Valley feels a world away from its seaside sister. In stark contrast to intimate Carmel, Carmel Valley is big and bold with mountain ranges, golf courses and riparian woodlands as far as the eye can see as well as resorts and ranches spread over several hundred acres. Quail Lodge & Golf Club, for example, is set on 895 acres in the heart of Carmel Valley and offers an 18-hole championship golf course, tennis courts, a pool, a fitness center, and a restaurant. Nearby, the all-suite Carmel Valley Ranch sits on 500 lush acres adjacent to the 4,400-acre Garland Ranch Regional Park so guests may enjoy easy access to miles of scenic hiking and explore gardens and other natural wonders bordering the resort’s Pete Dye-designed golf course. Most ranches and resorts are just minutes – albeit via car given the terrain – from more than 20 vineyards and wine-tasting rooms. Among the “musts” to visit while in the area are Folktale Winery & Vineyards and Joullian Vineyards & Winery. Folktale, located on the land that once served as Chateau Julien Wine Estate, opened its doors in 2015. Named because its lauded winemaker Gregory Ahn and his team believe every great bottle of wine tells a story, the vineyard boasts a massive garden, a barrel room, a stage, indoor and outdoor tasting spaces, games, and even a restaurant in addition to the actual planted vines and working vineyard operations. Less than 10 minutes from Folktale, at first blush Joullian looks more gothic cathedral than vineyard. Once closer, however, the rest of the vineyard reveals itself. On-site, enjoy tours, barrel tastings, wine tastings, and self-catered picnics. Joullian also happens to be just a mile or two from a handful of other great wine spots, including Cowgirl Winery and Bernardus Winery. The culinary bar is set just as high in Carmel Valley as it is in Carmel, thanks to Kathy’s Little Kitchen, Corkscrew Cafe, Valley Kitchen, Roux, and Lucia. Clearly a visit to these two regions that share one name has endless possibilities. For more information, visit www.carmelcalifornia.com.

SEEE MONTEREY PHOTO COURTESY OF