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All photos by Ian Hamilton, Limelight Creative Media
TO THE SOURCE Carting seven surfboards and 220 kilos of camera equipment, tools and luggage across 13 bags thanks to Air Nuigini, Mark Riley and his father John, son Seb, videographer Ian Hamilton, photographic assistant Oliver Hamilton, and surfer and camera tech Dylan Jeffrey headed to Nusa Island off Kavieng on the Northern Tip of PNG on a mission to build balsa surfboards, surf them, and generally have a grand time. These are excerpts from Mark’s travel diary.
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fter a sleepless night I was up at 5.30 doing practice flights of the drone around the hotel, until some of the clientele woke to see it hovering around the three-story building. When faces started appearing at the windows I headed to the back carpark to continue. Concerned about our 10am pick-up I returned to our room to help the camera crew get ready for the day and to send an email to our driver Darrel. He was in church this Sunday morning but arrived promptly at 9.59 still dressed up in his Sunday best and ready to hit the sawmill. Just a 10-minute drive to the wet balsa mill and I was in heaven. I’d asked Darrel if there’d be anyone working on a Sunday and he said normally not so I asked if we could maybe get a couple of guys for a few hours to cut some balsa for us to take some photos. When we arrived the sawdust was already flying and it sounded like 747s were taking off and landing every minute. Through the dust we could see 30 sets of shining white teeth and I was amazed at how many men and women were now happily working away. The men were doing the initial pickup of the logs and then cutting off the flitches before passing them from saw to saw and eventually on to the women who were neatly stacking the cut balsa ready for the kilns to dry. Most impressive was the limited waste produced; with the offcuts reused to make hand-carved souvenirs for tourists and to build toys for kids, and surprisingly, the sawdust collected and used as an additive to produce lightweight concrete.
After an hour or so the workers gathered together and I thanked them all for coming in on a Sunday and described what I was using their balsa for. I had two boards I’d made in Australia to show them so they could get a feel for why I wanted certain cuts and why the particular weight I was requesting was so important to surfboard construction. When I pulled them from their covers you should have seen their expressions, no-one could believe that this was the same wood that they’d cut and handled one year ago. Everyone crowded around to touch and hold the boards and to pose for photos. Then the questions started: How do you make them? How much do they sell for? Could you make one here? Why are you making one on Nusa Island and not here? I was impressed with the questions and the enthusiasm from both the men and the women . . . maybe next year we’ll build one there. From the mill we hit the 4WD and thirsty as lizards in the Simpson Desert headed to a supermarket for a drink and something to eat. I asked Darrel what he’d like and he said a meat pie. WTF? A MEAT PIE? Didn’t expect that in PNG, but he was serious, and while he stayed in the car Ian, Oli and myself headed in. Everyone was looking at us like we were ghosts (well we were sort of) and a big security guard came over and he pointed to the bakery out back and lo and behold there they were - chicken, mushroom and beef, just like a Four and Twenty back in Oz. Being just our second day though I wasn’t game enough to try one so went for some chicken washed down with Coke.
(left) The sweet set-up at Secrets, with Dylan Jeffrey in the slot on the 9’0’”. (above) Solar power, composting loos, filtered rainwater, pole construction, organic produce - the environmentally low impact Nusa Island Retreat. Add chilli crab and lobster tails, not a bad spot.
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to the source
We then headed off to the balsa farm with its manager to see the trees growing. They’ve been planted on landowners’ properties with the company paying a lease agreement over the five-year period of the life of the tree. They grow without any pesticides and stand tall and straight and are strong for their weight - natural balsa is actually one of the strongest materials in strength-to-weight ratio, stronger than carbonepoxy composite. The trees have large leaves perfect for converting photosynthesis using the strong sun, heat humidity, and constant rain to push these trees up quickly, and that’s why they’re so light. The seedpods sit high in the mother trees and drop to the ground regularly so I grabbed a pod and Seb separated the seeds from the fine hair inside to give to Shaun, the manager of Nusa Island Retreat, our ultimate destination, to plant on nearby Nago Island. We hit the road again for the airport to get to Nusa Island before sunset. The check-in system was down so we had to wait for boarding passes and as always Oli suggested we eat so we headed to the kiosk and there they were, the Holy Grail, more meat pies. And that’s all there was and they were delicious. Everyone was boarding except us and when we asked again for boarding passes the manager of Air Niugini simply grabbed a pen and handwrote them - classic PNG at its best. The humidity was stifling when we landed in Kavieng (it’s only 2 degrees off the equator) and loaded all the gear into the truck to head for the port and a five-minute banana boat trip across the harbour. And what a welcome from Shaun and Shannon - ice cold drinks and straight into a sensational threecourse buffet dinner, Oli was in heaven. As Shaun and I caught up on plans for the coming two weeks over a few beers, I pulled out the custom 9’0” and 7'6", and judging by the grin after he cradled the mid-length under his arm Shaun wanted this board. Next morning the swell was small but we were pumped and headed for Ral, a tiny island nearby which is the best option when it’s flat. We did get a few waves, but not what we came for, so after brekky we got to work - building racks, getting all the tools together, and discussing what was possible with the 10 sticks of balsa on hand. I asked Shaun what he’d like for his surf team, the tourists and himself, and of course he wanted all craft to cover all
bases. There was enough timber to build a mid-length and a longboard, or two mids and a shortboard. He went for the three. We had another surf at Ral in the afternoon but still the lighting and waves were not great, so guide Uncle Louie suggested we head down the east coast next day on a “surf safari” (fitting since we’d booked everything with World Surfaris). I stayed on at the Retreat and with 20 locals began building the first 7'6" solid balsa. They were so keen that I had to watch carefully and get them to slow down. There were three groups on different jobs, one marking rocker curves on the balsa, another cutting the rocker curves and the third copying templates off Shaun's favourite board. By the end of the day we had one blank glued up and another cut out ready to glue. Meanwhile the boys had some fun 3-foot barrels at a secret spot down the coast - and Ian was happy with the light and angles for shooting. So the plan was to go down to Secrets again and shoot some video with the kids riding their flitches (offcuts). The surf was a little bigger and the kids were straight out there and catching the smaller waves and standing up on their two-foot planks. They were amazing! I gave a balsa fish to one of the boys and on his first wave he stood and raised his arms as high as he could punching the air with excitement. From the beach all the kids were laughing and cheering him, and so was I. It was one of my dreams to see this. We played games and had some running races with the kids on the beach, and then gave them some gifts. My daughter Elyss had given me her dance concert uniforms to hand out to the girls, who were so shy but happy, and it was just another great moment in the trip for me. And this was only day three! Back at Ral the next morning the surf was still unsure of what it was doing, but I took the drone for a fly over the 100-metre long island and the view from up there was just spectacular! While the guys kept on top of their fitness program of large breakfast followed by a medium lunch followed by a huge buffet dinner, I was back to the board building. We started rough-cutting the first mid-length and glued up the second fun board. The local guys were so motivated to be actually shaping these new boards.
(left) Back to the source: balsa trees just five years old, stacking the sawn timber for the kilns, Mark and the mill crew – from the tree to the sea. (above) Local groms ripping on their slithers of timber.
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to the source World Surfaris had prepped us with heaps of surf and travel info and we knew this was the late season for surf it was a risk coming here in April, but having Nusa Island Retreat and its boats and staff to ourselves was too hard to resist. Still, we had to start searching for some swell and heard a report it was 4 to 5-foot down south, some three hours away, but the phone and internet service is so sporadic that sending a message to confirm can take a day and receiving a reply another. Time was not on our side and we were all getting a little edgy due to the lack of perfect waves we’d dreamt of. Another day went by with some more board-building but the participating numbers were dwindling - I think it was payday with a few sickies thrown due to celebrations after getting the first board shaped. We all went diving off Nago Island (a five-minute boat ride from Nusa) and it was unbelievably clear and the coral was in great condition, with clown fish and turtles frolicking around the brain corals and giant blue starfish. Another five minutes away was the sunken Japanese Aichi E13A "Jake" Seaplane, resting in only 15 metres of clear water – there’s a lot of history from World War 2 in this region. Also nearby is a sunken fishing boat that’s also a fascinating shallow dive just near the famous Nusa Lefts break. Saturday came so fast - one week gone, only one to go – and desperation starts to set in for quality waves. But Shaun is seeing that the three boards are moving a little slow so he’s thinking if I’m pulled away this project will never end so a handbreak is applied to the out-of-town trips and we all start praying for swell to the big fellow in the sky. He’s been good with delivering my goals for the trip so far, but more ingredients are required to make this dish a success - SURF AND MORE SURF.
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John Riley and his grandson Seb. Johnny played rugby league for the Saint George Dragons for six seasons (’59 to ’64) in the centres alongside Reg Gasnier. He was also a Kangaroo.
We hear of a party on the mainland in a coconut plantation, and it sounds interesting and dangerous (dangerous in the sense of getting stuck there with Shaun and drinking to the wee hours). Must add, Kavieng and the neighbouring islands are super safe and the locals are sooo friendly. In the afternoon we headed to the Kavieng Market to check out the local fish, fruit, clothes and betel nut. The majority of the market was betel nut, great for the locals but maybe not so much for a tourist, but you have to do what the Romans did in Rome and buy some “buai” for the party tonight. I bought six nuts combined with mustard
fruit and lime powder, which turns the mixture red. Chewers get a mildly euphoric feeling and a sense of wellbeing and it is very common - even two-year-olds will start chewing buai. But, after shaping all day in 34-degree heat followed by a huge lobster tail buffet I was buggered and hit the sack at nine. The others never made it either, we just had too much going on around us and weren’t so keen on a hangover next day. Sunday arrived and we were all feeling refreshed and ready for what the islands can hand out. What about church to feed the soul and ask for forgiveness and ask Huey for some help, or a cup of coffee and surf check with binoculars over to nearby Pikininis (Childrens), a right point that can pump a bit like Kirra but over reef. It looks good but only maybe two-foot. OK, time to start the glassing, so while we’re up early to beat the heat and it’s already 32 degrees. Who knows how this will turn out. But surprisingly it’s going pretty good, so we flip it over at 10am and it’s now 34 degrees. The mix went off faster because of the extra humidity and the finish was not as good as usual, but we learnt from this and will filler-coat early the next day. During the laminating the local boat-builder Kavelo started on a fresh betel nut and when he sneezed he blew red stain over the wet glass! He was trying to clean it off but I said leave it, this will be the only board in the world with betel nut fibre and juice in it! He was very contained sort of a guy but with this he had a good laugh. Late in the arvo we did a spot of fishing and got some big hits but nothing landed, with Seb very disappointed and now determined to catch something before we leave. (main pic) Dylan with a smooth rail-carve on a quad fish at Long Longs. (inset top) Stall holders at Kavieng Market. (inset bottom) Checking out the Riley How to Build Balsa Surfboards DVDs.
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to the source
(top left) Chugga getting a handle on shaping with the block plane. (top right) Titima, current PNG longboard and shortboard champion, and young local Chris checking out the solid balsa glue-up. (above) Whatever makes you happy; a simple slither and a finely finished 9’0”. (opposite, top) Titima full tilt on a balsa fish. (opposite, bottom) Dylan roundhouse in front of Ollie at Long Longs.
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Monday sunrise was fantastic, rising over Kavieng town and putting an orange glow over the harbour and lighting up the Retreat with magnificent colours, from orange to pink to aquas to light and dark greens across the still water. It certainly is an experience to sit on platforms suspended over sheet glass experiencing this in such a spectacular location, and I took to the sky with the drone to capture some amazing footage. Soon a torrential downpour hit and there wasn't much to do so it was time to chew and Oli and Dylan gave the betel nut a go. With direction from local Tony on what to do and what not to do (like swallow it), it was hilarious to see the boys chewing and spitting and saying it was disgusting. By now my body was starting to suffer with cuts on toes, heels and knees but the surf is building so I strapped myself up and we all headed for Nago Lefts. We took the current PNG shortboard and longboard champ Titima with us, who’d been missing in action for the past few days and was still looking a bit green around the gills (must have been a bad prawn!). The surf is starting to build and clean up! Perhaps our prayers were answered. With the sanding of the board continuing my sea ulcer injuries begin to dry out (nothing like dust to dry out holes in your legs, except maybe some resin), the boys continue to search for perfect waves and they catch a great session back down the coast. Hounding to go fishing again, Seb hits gold with a barracuda, and on his dial is a look of sheer joy and relief as this was his goal for the trip. Later Seb and I grab the SUPs and paddle around to Long Longs, a peeling righthander that walls up with a down-the-line barrel. It was only knee-high but near perfect and you could see the potential - another three feet and it would be unreal. Paddleboards can be a great relaxer and the coral and fish were just amazing to view when standing up. We came across a massive school of bait-fish, maybe a hundred metres long but just a metre wide, making the bottom completely black except for the odd shimmer of a fish rolling on its side and the sun catching the scales with a sparkle. An amazing thing to see and share. Our second last day and the wind and swell were favourable for the secret spot, and with hopes high on the hour-drive the anticipation was mounting for a great session. We arrived under shaded palm trees and there were A-frames standing to attention at three-foot and building. This was looking to be our best day. Locals came to watch us, but there was no hurry to get out there, the tide was on our side and it was getting better and bigger. Soon Titima, Oli and Dylan hit the water along with the locals on their flitches. We were getting some killer barrels and the locals taking off in the zone and also getting buzzed . . . just like cracking a betel nut! Super energetic anyway, Ian was shooting like mad, capturing this beautiful wave and location and atmosphere of PNG . . . the golden moments we’d been dreaming about. It was a short wave but with a perfect drop-in for barrels and a backdrop to die for. Five hours later the boys were struggling with sunstroke, hunger and tiredness. We were thinking this was it for our last surf and the Gods have shone, let’s head back for an afternoon meal and to check out some amazing footage.
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(top left) Groms after having had a go with the planer. (top right) Retreat surf guide Louie with longboard, Ollie with shortboard, Dylan with fish, Titma with mid-length. (above) Local grom – his first wave on Mark’s fish. (opposite, top) Mark, time out from building the boards. (opposite, bottom) Ollie shacked at Secrets.
The last day arrived so fast and we figured it was time to relax, so John, Seb and myself went for a walk around Nusa Island to see the cannons and armoury still in situ from World War 2 and then check out a blowhole. We met up with four boys aged from about five to nine, who started walking with us through the war sites and amusing all by climbing trees, opening coconuts with bare hands and rocks, and offering us the delicious coconut meat. They also opened fresh green coconuts just with their white straight teeth and offered the coconut water. Wearing only shorts, the kids looked so fit and healthy, and with nothing on their feet either walked over coral and lava rocks without a problem. Later we went searching for a handicraft village on the island and while unaware of exactly where we were heading Kavelo spotted us and offered to take us there. He pointed to a small village we were walking past and said I’ll show you my place first. He asked if we’d like a banana and bought us a bunch of small finger bananas that were the best I’ve ever tasted, with a fresh live distinct aroma. Inside his hut was a small handicraft store with beautifully-made woodworks like sharks and stingrays and brilliant jewellery made from shells, some of which I just had to buy for my wife Lourdes and daughter Elyss. At the village market, while marvelling at their incredible work I spotted a boy about 11 with an ancient mini-mal with half the glass ripped off running towards the water with swimming goggles on his head. “Hey where’re you going?” I shouted. “Long Longs,” he said. His name was Nic, although he couldn’t tell me “why the goggles”. He looked so proud of his dilapidated board, and we followed him down onto the low tide
reef and he had another two boards waiting in the water. He put all three onto a canoe, while in the background we could see Dylan carving it up on the walling four-foot rights on my 9’0” balsa out at Long Longs. Just watching Nic paddle the hollowed tree-trunk canoe out, loaded with his three boards, was another unexpected highlight for me. Back at the Retreat the boys came back pumped with more stories of perfection with just a few local kids out, and Ian was frothing like a grom. Thankfully Shaun is not on the island to keep us in the Quicksand Bar all night, but Shannon does a good job on us anyway. As we say our goodbyes, I also say goodbye to the three boards I made there and the four other balsa boards I took over which Shaun had his eyes on. I am humbled and so absolutely stoked with this adventure that I could turn around and go back tomorrow. The people and places were fantastic and all the hard work has been done now and we have put in place a plan to do this every year, to go back and visit the children surfing and the board builders to support them and to see them growing. If you’re interested in joining us one year around April contact me at mark@riley.com.au and come surf, dive, fish, play, build boards, and mix with the locals. I have to thank World Surfaris, Nusa Island Retreat, Air Niugini, PNG Tourism Promotion Authority, Lime Light Creative Media, Surfing Association of PNG, and Dylan Jeffrey, this would not have been possible without you guys. See you all next year.
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