City Tour
Shaka Zulu Foo
Where to Eat, Stay, and Play in Hard-Partying Kampala, Uganda By Alana Muhoza
I
t is hard for most travelers to think of Uganda and not think of the political turmoil of its most recent election, but also, its prized national parks, the mango and banana trees skirting its roads, and its long-held reputation of being home to half of the world’s endangered mountain gorillas. In the central-southern part of Uganda, however, lies the bustling capital of Kampala, with locals partying until morning at venues open as long as customers are present, and food vendors serving at all hours of the night. That was until March 2020, when the spread of coronavirus prompted a full closure of travel; a strict 7 p.m. curfew; and closures of restaurants, clubs, bars, and entertainment venues, putting the entire country at a standstill. Fast forward to this January, and a full-scale reopening has come, with musical concerts, clubs, and food vendors finally open again (though, there has been a gradual easing of restrictions since the reopening of the airport in October 2020, with entry requirements for arriving passengers). To experience Kampala in its entirety, all of these experiences are a must. Now that they have returned, here is where to eat, stay, and play in Uganda’s capital for a local welcome, or tubasanyukidde.
Getting around Kampala Arriving at Entebbe International Airport and getting to the city, which is 27 miles away, is easiest with a private rental car or via the taxis that are available in abundance at arrivals; the drive is 40 minutes. The main modes of transport within the city include boda bodas (motorbike taxis) perfect for travelers who like to get around cheaply (download and use the SafeBoda app to hail rides). There are also matutus (public minivan taxis) for the true Kampala experience. And, of course, Uber.
What to do in Kampala Kampala is a playground of entertainment,
catering to just about anyone. The city is packed with endless sites, stores, and markets that would need days to cover. But if you had only 24 hours in this culturally-rich and historical city, the non-negotiables include temples, tombs, art galleries, and nightlife. Begin your day early in the morning to visit the Mother Temple of Africa, also known as the continent’s only Baha’i faith house of worship. The temple is one of nine Bahá’í Temples across the globe and was East Africa’s tallest building when it was built in 1961. It’s one of Uganda’s most beautiful buildings, with white and green mosaic tiles and a dome-like structure to represent the divine circle (note: it is prohibited to take pictures inside the mosque). Another popular historic site is the Kasubi Royal Tombs burial site, the resting place of the last four kings of the Buganda Kingdom, and a UNESCO World Heritage site. To explore the city’s creative side—from art galleries to the ever-evolving fashion scene—start with the Afriart Gallery, a leading contemporary art gallery in Bukoto; or the Umoja Art Gallery, which focuses on reviving Uganda’s cultural heritage and stimulating developing artists living in Uganda. If fashion is more of your scene, then take a trip to Aiduke Clothing Research pop-up at Yamasen Japanese Restaurant; this initiative focuses on working with Ugandans to create a local textile and clothing economy, while Bold in Africa, a women-owned fashion outlet, supports up-and-coming designers across the continent, but particularly in Uganda. Open air markets, like Owino Market, are a must-see part of the Ugandan/Kampala experience. They include many vendors selling nearly everything you can think of for under $10. Roads are often closed for these markets, in order to allow for vendors and buyers to explore freely through the endless number of stalls. End the day by rubbing elbows with Kampala’s revelers or enjoying a nice sundowner at any number of bars across the city. Kampala has the reputation of having something happening every day of the week, including various theme and music-genre nights. Those who are into loud music and want somewhere to dance until the sun comes up will love Kampala’s own version of
44 | ABA Publications | Africa TRAVEL | March 2022
