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SPORTS CLIMBING A QUICK GUIDE
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ABOUT Indoor Sports Climbing takes the challenge of scaling a near vertical wall. Climbers use brightly-coloured hand and foot holds, their climbing skills and all the strength their bodies can muster to climb the surface. It has three different disciplines : • Speed Climbing • Bouldering • Lead Climbing All the participants have to participate in all 3 disciplines.
DATE 4th - 7th August
VENUE Aomi Urban Sports Venue (near Olympic Village)
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safety rope
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SPEED CLIMBING Speed Climbing is a form of indoor rock climbing where athletes compete for the fastest time to reach the top of the climbing wall.
No Time Limit
15 metres
Fastest climber wins
SKILLS
ATTEMPTS
Speed
1 Attempt
EQUIPMENTS
IN CASE OF A TIE
Safety Rope
Rematch
ONE TO WATCH Reza ALIPOUR Country : Iran World Record : 5.63 seconds Image Source : upload.wikimedia.org
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BOULDERING
In bouldering, climbers scale as many fixed routes on a 4m-high wall as they can within four minutes. When a climber grabs the final hold at the top of a route with both hands, they are deemed to have completed it.
4 min
climber who scales the most wins
4 metres
SKILLS
ATTEMPTS
Strength, Technique
Multiple
EQUIPMENTS
IN CASE OF A TIE
No equipment
Rematch
ONE TO WATCH Shauna COXSEY Country : UK World Record : 8B+ Image Source : climbingaway.fr
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quickdraw
safety rope
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LEAD CLIMBING Lead climbing involves athletes attempting to climb as high as they can. They attach rope to quickdraws as they climb. If a climber falls, the height attained is recorded.
6 min
> 15 metres
climber who climbs the highest wins
SKILLS
ATTEMPTS
Stamina
1 Attempt
EQUIPMENTS
IN CASE OF A TIE
Safety Rope, Quickdraws
The fastest climber to climb 15m wins
ONE TO WATCH Jakob SCHUBERT Country : Austria World Ranking : 1 Image Source : encrypted.gstatic.com
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SCORING
BOULDERING for example,
• The climber who successfully holds the top hold
consider the score :
shall be scored as “TOP”. • On each boulder, a zone point will be awarded if the
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climber controls the Zone. • The Zone Hold is considered as “controlled” where
read as :
the climber has made use of the hold to achieve a
One Top, One Zone,
stable or controlled position.
3 attempts to Top, 2 attempts to Zone
LEAD CLIMBING (the wall)
Top
• The climber who successfully holds the top hold shall be scored as “TOP”.
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• Every hold is assigned a score. • The climber, upon touching the hold, is awarded the score of the hold.
12+ • Any climber who falls, the furthest hold held shall determine the competitor’s score.
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QUICK COMPARISON
Criteria
Speed Climbing
Bouldering
Lead Climbing
Height
15 m
4m
> 15 m
Time
X
4 min
6 min
Equipment
How to Win
X fastest climber wins
scale as many times
climb as high as possible
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ROUNDS
QUALIFICATION ROUND MEN
20 Participants 4th August
WOMEN
20 Participants 5th August
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FINAL ROUND
WINNER
6 Participants 6th August
1 Winner
6 Participants 7th August
(For Speed Final, 8 participants are selected as a quota of 6 does not allow the duel system)
1 Winner
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QUICK FACTS
HISTORY Lead climbing is the oldest of the three disciplines, with the first organised competition, known as “SportRoccia�, taking place near the Italian city of Turin in 1985. Image Source : planetmountain.com
GLOBAL APPEAL According to the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), more than 140 countries have climbing walls. The IFSC estimates there are now 35 million climbers worldwide, with an average age of 23. Image Source : gettyimages.com
OLYMPIC DEBUT Sport climbing was part of the highly successful Nanjing 2014 Sports Lab. Sixteen top international and Chinese athletes took part to showcase their professions to the world in a programme of performances each day. Image Source : olympic.org
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QUALIFICATION SPOTS Given below are the quota spots for 2020 Olympics for both men’s and women’s category :
Standard
Places
Host (Japan)
1
World Championship
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World Cup
1
Olympic Qualifying Event
6
Africa Championship
1
Americas Championship
1
Europe Championship
1
Oceania Championship
1
Asia Championship
1
Tripartite Championship
1
Total
20
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