MAY 23-29, 2018 I VOLUME 42 I NUMBER 21
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THE LEDE
“I dress like this every day. I’ve got 58 suits in my closet, so this is what I wear every day. No blue jeans! No blue jeans!”
PHOTO BY THEO WELLING
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TABLE OF CONTENTS FEATURE
14.
The Most St. Louis Summer Ever We’re jumping into a beer-soaked, junk-foodfilled, warm-weather extravaganza Written by
RFT STAFF
Cover illustration by
NOAH MACMILLAN
NEWS
ARTS
DINING
CULTURE
5
40
45
57
The Lede
Calendar
Seven days worth of great stuff to see and do
Cheryl Baehr tries the area’s best pork steaks
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43
48
Higher Ed
An SIUE student takes on the administration after she says she was raped by a classmate
Film
Robert Hunt finds himself pleasantly unsettled by the genre-shifting Beast
10
Side Dish
Nick Bognar returned to his mother’s restaurant, Nippon Tei, after finding success outside St. Louis
50
City Hall
Second Look
A frustrated mayor says it’s doubtful airport privatization plans can go forward
The Boathouse is back — and better than ever
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52
News
Politics
Little Bird will be Juniper’s little sister, while Brennan’s Work & Leisure puts a twist on co-working
Nazis target Senator Claire McCaskill — and St. Louis TV stations take their dough
6
Roundup
Your friend or neighbor, captured on camera
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Homespun
Mikey Wehling’s latest album was inspired by his work teaching at a school for the blind
59
Out and About
For Bruiser Queen, the show went on
60
Out Every Night
The best concerts in St. Louis every night of the week
60
This Just In
This week’s new concert announcements
8205 GRAVOIS ROAD • ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI 63123 • (314) 631-3130 MIDAMERICAARMS.COM • FACEBOOK.COM/MIDAMERICAARMS Publisher Chris Keating Editor in Chief Sarah Fenske E D I T O R I A L Arts & Culture Editor Paul Friswold Music Editor Daniel Hill Digital Editor Jaime Lees Staff Writers Doyle Murphy, Danny Wicentowski Restaurant Critic Cheryl Baehr Film Critic Robert Hunt Editorial Interns Mario Miles-Turnage, Ian Scott Contributing Writers Mike Appelstein, Allison Babka, Sara Graham, Roy Kasten, Jaime Lees, Joseph Hess, Kevin Korinek, Bob McMahon, Nicholas Phillips, Tef Poe, Christian Schaeffer, Lauren Milford, Thomas Crone, MaryAnn Johanson, Jenn DeRose, Mike Fitzgerald Proofreader Evie Hemphill Cartoonist Bob Stretch
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NEWS SIUE Student Pushes Back After Reversal Written by
SARAH FENSKE
O
n October 17, 2017, Bailey Reed, a senior sociology major at Southern Illinois University Edwardsville, went to the emergency room to report that she had just been raped by a classmate. Campus police arrived to take her statement, and the nurse examiner found a bruise on her cervix, which often indicates sexual assault. Reed’s case avoided all the complicating factors that people tend to use against women who accuse someone of sexual assault. She hadn’t been drinking. She said she had told her assailant “no” at least seven times. She told a friend she’d been assaulted almost immediately after she got the classmate out of her apartment — and then made a report to law enforcement within hours. And while text messages showed that Reed’s classmate tried to text her the next day, she never texted back. Instead, she reported the incident to both campus police and the college’s Title IX Office. Still, seven months later, Reed continues to fight SIUE. The school has not taken action against her assailant — in fact, the university’s chancellor overruled a finding against him by the school’s Sexual Harassment Panel, without explanation. It’s only because Reed took out an order of protection against him, one that barred him from campus while she was on it, that his education was interrupted. The only criminal charge he has been hit with is a misdemeanor for violating the order of protection. Her lawyer, Nicole Gorovsky, says the young man was not allowed to be in any classes he had with Reed after she obtained the protective order. Yet he nevertheless showed up in class one day — and sat down right in Reed’s
chair. Someone called the police, and he was arrested. Even with that, Gorovsky says, SIUE has sided with her attacker every step of the way. “We’ve talked about, ‘Let’s wait and see if they do the right thing, let’s give them the time to do the right thing,’” she says. “We have given them the time, and they have not done it.” Douglas McIlhagga, a spokesman for the university, said it did not agree with Gorovsky’s characterization of the case. “While the University cannot comment on the specifics of Ms. Reed’s case due to Federal student privacy laws, we disagree with Ms. Gorovsky’s statements and her mischaracterization of the process that occurred at SIUE regarding this matter,” he said. “SIUE takes all complaints of sexual assault and other forms of sexual harassment very seriously, and seeks to provide a harassment and discrimination free environment to all SIUE students, employees and visitors.” In the weeks following her report of rape, Reed found herself feeling stranded, as Gorovsky explains in an official complaint to
“We’ve talked about, ‘Let’s wait and see if they do the right thing, let’s give them the time to do the right thing. We have given them the time, and they have not done it.” the university. She was told counseling was available — but not for three weeks. She was sent a letter telling her in no uncertain terms to have no contact with the classmate she was accusing, but was given no explanation as to whether he’d received a similar
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Bailey Reed graduated from SIUE two weeks ago. | COURTESY OF BAILEY REED directive. “She was made to feel that she was being chastised,” Gorovsky writes in her summary. “Reed was told that if she wanted to avoid [her alleged rapist], she could ‘Skype into class.’” And four months later, the Title IX Office found that Reed’s classmate had not violated any university policies. The seven-page report never even mentions the bruise on her cervix. Instead, it dwells at length on the fact that she may have misstated whether she was in the bathroom or in the car when she sent a text message to a friend following the incident — a fact even the report acknowledges was “not in and of itself very significant.” The report’s author seems skeptical about the fact she’d gotten food with a friend before going to the hospital. He also suggests that her description of the rape, which involved her assailant forcing her to give oral sex and then later maneuvering her onto her stomach and then penetrating her while pushing down on her back, was “difficult to envision.” Reed appealed. The case went to the university’s Sexual Harassment Panel — and this time, Gorovsky writes in her summary, Reed was able to name an ally, a woman who’d come forward to say she believed she’d come close to being victimized by the same
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student. After the man started kissing her, the other woman said “no” so loudly that her roommates could hear, she reported, and then screamed “get off me.” The woman told Reed she was willing to talk to the university about her experience. At that, the university’s Sexual Harassment Panel overruled the Title IX Office, finding that Reed’s alleged rapist had violated SIUE’s sexual harassment policy. But that wasn’t the end of the story. Last month, the university’s chancellor, Randall G. Pembrook, overruled the panel in yet another reversal. Instead of telling Reed directly, he sent her lawyer a copy of the letter he’d sent her alleged assailant. “The letter does not state any reasoning or explanation for the decision,” Gorovsky would later write in her summary. “[I]t does not list what the Chancellor reviewed in making his determination, and although it expresses that [the alleged attacker] received all his ‘due process rights afforded by University policy,’ it does not express any way in which Reed’s rights were protected, upheld or considered.” Reed graduated two weeks ago, but she is not giving up. On May 17, Gorovsky wrote to the university’s board of trustees, asking
MAY 23 - 29, 2018
Continued on pg 12
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Airport Privatization Lands in Tailspin Written by
DANNY WICENTOWSKI
L
ast week’s meeting of the city’s powerful Board of Estimate and Apportionment didn’t go the way Mayor Lyda Krewson had hoped. Instead of signing off on hiring a consultant to explore leasing Lambert-St. Louis International Airport to a private company, the board punted, agreeing to delay its vote until an undetermined later date. Following the board’s failure to cast a key vote to ink a contract between the city and an array of airport privatization consultants, Krewson remarked that another attempt is “pretty doubtful at this point.” The surprising development came after months of efforts from the mayor’s office to sell city officials on considering a lease of the city airport — and get them to approve a plan to put the search process partially in the hands of a nonprofit funded by conservative philanthropist Rex Sinquefield. Sinquefield’s role helped stoke controversy in February, but since then, discussions about privatization have taken place largely behind the scenes — that is, until last week, when the hire of the privatization consultants finally appeared on the agenda for the monthly meeting of the E&A board. The three-member board —
comprising the mayor, Aldermanic President Lewis Reed and Comptroller Darlene Green — must approve all city expenditures, even, as in this case, when consultants would only stand to profit if the city successfully leased its airport. Krewson said she went into the meeting with a commitment from Lewis Reed, that “he had gotten what he needed” to approve the contract. As it turns out, that wasn’t the case. “Today had some surprises,” she said. “He had some more demands.” During the meeting, any sense of consensus was derailed just minutes after the matter was introduced to the board. First, the disagreement focused on five amendments to the contract, added by a selection committee earlier that day. Reed indicated that he had expected additional amendments to be passed as well. Krewson seemed confused by his assertion. “Honestly we put these in because we believed this is what you wanted,” she told Reed at one point. The meeting later bogged down as Reed voiced concern about the transparency and membership of a “working group” to be staffed with appointees selected by members of the E&A board, as well as budget director Paul Payne. The working group would operate alongside the consultants as they try to find an airport lessee. Comptroller Darlene Green also flatly said she wasn’t ready to approve the contract. Her issue was a provision that seemed to award the working group authority to act on behalf of the city, legal language that she warned would conflict with the city charter. After a recess, Linda Martinez, the deputy mayor for development, told the board that staff had taken a look at the complaints
STREAK’S CORNER • by Bob Stretch
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A frustrated Krewson said another try on privatization is now doubtful. | DANNY WICENTOWSKI
and that problems could be addressed. They were “really close on a couple issues,” Martinez said, adding that the additional amendments could be written by the end of day Thursday. Green also supported a delay. “It is clearly not worked out, and it doesn’t appear that it is going to be worked out today,” she said of the contract. “I’m not prepared to vote.” Since the contract wasn’t voted on, a copy wasn’t made available to the public (or the media). Reed’s specific concerns are difficult to analyze — we don’t know what exact amendments he’s referencing or, for that matter, what other amendments he’s now insisting must be implemented. In any case, Reed insists those changes are essential. “The re-format of that working group is critically important,” he said after the meeting. “It has to happen, because when we’re working in the public forum you
have to have a process attached, that’s accountable, that’s definable.” But whether that process will ever get remotely close to completion with regard to the airport is now an open question, and maybe moot. Even Krewson, a vocal proponent of exploring airport privatization, is now openly doubtful of seeing even that first careful step. The meeting seemed to wear on the mayor. At several points she commented on the administration’s steady efforts to refine the contract for the consultants. After the meeting, she again noted the time spent trying to hash out the details. Today was supposed to be day they actually got approval, instead of just bickering and delaying it yet again. “This airport situation is a very big thing to consider,” she said. “None of these things come together instantly, but the one thing you have to do is start. Today we failed to do that.” n
ﬔe commercials targeted Senator Claire McCaskill. | SCREENGRAB VIA AMERICA FIRST POLICIES
STL Stations Cash in on Nazi-Financed Ad Written by
DANIEL HILL
A
merica First Policies, a pro-Trump nonprofit organization with a Nazi sympathizer as its policy director, is spending nearly $200,000 on ads targeting Senator Claire McCaskill (D-Missouri) in the St. Louis area. The campaign aims to get controversial CIA veteran Gina Haspel, whom an ACLU lawyer once described as “quite literally a war criminal” due to her involvement in torture and destruction of evidence related to a CIA black site she ran in Thailand, confirmed as the new CIA director. Now, we know what you’re thinking: Wait, didn’t that confirmation go through just last week by a vote of 54 to 45 in the Senate, even as McCaskill voted to oppose? The answer, of course, is yes. But we never accused anyone at America First Policies of being particularly smart or good with money — we accused them of being run by at least one Nazi sympathizer. Specifically, we’re referring to policy director Juan Pablo Andrade, who, in a video released last week by Mediaite, can be heard saying, “The only thing the Nazis didn’t get right is they didn’t keep fucking going.” The video was shot on Snapchat in December in a Florida hotel room. Andrade
was attending a conference for Turning Point USA, a youth conservative organization endorsed by Trump and Senator Marco Rubio. The conference featured speakers including Donald Trump Jr., exWhite House official Sebastian Gorka, Fox News personality Tomi Lahren and right-wing pundit Ben Shapiro. The video was uploaded to Snapchat by Caesar Subervi, an alt-right activist who was a participant in the white supremacist march in Charlottesville last summer, according to Mediaite, which also says Subervi uploaded a video of himself saying it was “awesome” that a person whom he thought was a protester had been hit by a car outside of the conference. “This is the car that hit the fucking protester,” Subervi reportedly says while filming a wrecked car. “She smashed that bitch, that is awesome!” But wait, there’s more! Lest you think Andrade’s outspoken racism is a fluke within the ranks of America First Policies, consider director of advocacy Carl Higbie, who in January was forced to resign from his position as head of the government-run Corporation for National and Community Service, where he was appointed by Trump, after a CNN investigation turned up several racist and sexist remarks he made on air on his radio show in 2013 and 2014. “I believe wholeheartedly, wholeheartedly, that the black race as a whole, not totally, is lazier than the white race, period” is among his remarks on record. Additionally, he alleged that black women “think that breeding is a form of Continued on pg 12
�ve music every Saturday SUNDAY 6/17 FATHER'S DAY PARTY
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NOT GIVING UP Continued from pg 9
them to overrule the chancellor’s ruling — allowing the Sexual Harassment Panel finding to stand. “The choices made by SIUE in the investigation and review of the [rape] case have been abhorrent,” the attorney writes. “The findings of the Title IX office read like a textbook lesson in how not to evaluate sexual assault. .... The university failed to uphold her rights, treated her like she did something wrong for reporting what happened to her and
projected upon her gender discrimination that is outrageous in modern society. SIU students, and Bailey Reed in particular, deserve better. Fortunately, federal law exists to ensure they get better.” A former prosecutor, Gorovsky says she’s shocked by what she’s seen in this case. “It never fails to shock me when institutions protect themselves rather than those they serve,” she says. “I don’t know why I’m still optimistic going into cases like this, but I am — and then those hopes are devastated.” Through it all, though, Gorovsky
says Reed has held firm in wanting her former classmate to see justice. It’s one reason why she hasn’t wavered in being willing to have her real name be used — and even a photo. “She knew this was how she wanted to handle it,” Gorovsky says. “It was honestly more difficult in that I wanted to explain all the potential consequences to her.” But, she says, Reed was certain of her path. “She’s very upset about how the university handled this,” Gorovsky says. “She’s been very upset from the beginning.” n
NAZI ADS
Continued from pg 9
employment” and that “the black race” has “a lax of morality.” Higbie apologized for his remarks in January but back-tracked in early May, claiming they were simply “taken out of context.” Last Wednesday, RFT saw the proHaspel ad airing on KDNL (Channel 30), KPLR (Channel 11) and KTVI (Channel 2). According to public file records, KMOV (Channel 4) also sold ad space to America First Policies. Those same records show a combined total of $180,548.75 received by the four St. Louis stations from America First Policies in May 2018. KDNL’s general manager, Tom Tipton, declined to comment. KMOV’s news director, Scott Diener, said he received a note last Wednesday saying KMOV was apparently not in on the ad buy. He said he could not immediately account for the information in the public file. He transferred RFT to the station’s sales director for further clarification, but that person
Records show a combined total of $180,548.75 received by the four St. Louis stations from America First Policies in May 2018. did not return a message seeking comment by deadline. Kurt Krueger, station manager for KTVI and KPLR, said that the stations don’t scrutinize groups as long as they are established political action committees that are able to pay for their ads. “Corporate evaluates the ad and makes sure it’s good for air,” he said, “but I don’t think they research what the head of the group says in video clips.” America First Policies was founded in January 2017 by a group of Republican political operatives that includes Nick Ayers, Vice President Mike Pence’s top political adviser, and embattled former Trump campaign staffer Rick Gates, who was removed from his post at America First due to his involvement in Paul Manafort’s overseas ventures. Pence has appeared and spoken at multiple events put on by the group. Higbie and Andrade both remain in their positions. n
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JUNE
10th Anniversary
TO CELEBRATE OUR 10 YEAR ANNIVERSARY WE’RE HOLDING A RAFFLE EVERY MONTH THROUGH NOVEMBER ENDING WITH A GRAND PRIZE WINNER! RAFFLE TICKETS ARE $5 EACH OR 5 FOR $20. Tickets available at Pappy’s, Bogart’s, Southern, Dalie’s and Adam’s. Winners receive a complimentary meal at Pappy’s for four with a bonus SpeedPass. (no waiting in line) and tickets to one of our city’s notable attractions.
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G
o ahead and keep your spring, with its balmy temperatures and gentle rain. And we’ll pass on fall, with that hint of foreboding underlying rapidly shortening days .... we’re not there yet. For our money — right here, right now — there is nothing better than summer in St. Louis. Muggy nights on the stoop with a cold one? That’s heaven to us. This year, we’re determined to have the most St. Louis summer ever, and we’ve prepared our annual Summer Guide to that end. You say you want free shit? We’ve got no less than twenty things to do, plus another ten that are nearly as cheap. You say you like beer? We’ve got twelve tap rooms ripe for visiting. Ah, but you’d rather eat pork steak? Just wait ‘til you get to Cheryl Baehr’s
roundup on page 45. And if you’re hungry in the mean time, hey — we’ve got a complete guide to the city’s most beloved junk food. And if you’re lying on the couch right now with a hangover, as a good St. Louisan is wont to do, why not mosey over to page 34? There you can test your skill on that most elusive of questions: Are you a true St. Louisan? You may feel like one after partaking in the delights outlined in this issue, but don’t fool yourself. Making it here requires that special something. Merely eating your weight in Provel and Pimped Out Pickles this summer is not enough .... though we’ll concede it helps. Enjoy your summer. May it be as peak St. Louis as a gravois of Hoosiers in the Ted Drewes parking lot. —Sarah Fenske
I L L U S T R A T I O N S
B Y
N O A H
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20 Free Things to Do in St. Lou That Go Beyond the Zoo Written by
DANIEL HILL
F
ew things in St. Louis are more cherished than the zoo. The fact that it is completely free is a point of greater pride for many St. Louisans than even the accomplishments of their offspring, who honestly tend to be pretty much a disappointment. But you can’t go to the zoo every weekend ... and some weekends, you may not even want to. As the heat bears down it is felt by animal and man alike, and with the place positively crawling with visitors from Jefferson County, good times can be in short supply. What is a typical St. Louisan — thrifty as the scrubby Dutch, wily as a fox, prone to seek out intoxication — supposed to do for fun? That’s where we come in. Below you will find no less than twenty things to do in St. Louis this summer that are completely free of charge. Read up and get ready to save some pennies.
1. Tour the Anheuser-Busch Brewery Let’s face it: You’re from St. Louis, which means odds are you are both a drunk and extremely cheap. It’s not your fault: You grew up in the shadow of a brewery in a town where the cost of living is pennies on the dollar compared to more expensive locales. Why not stop by that glorious Anheuser-Busch Brewery (1200 Lynch Street, 314577-2626) and see how your suds are made? Admission is free, and you even get to drink some no-cost beer when all is said and done. Pro tip: If you are already obnoxiously drunk enough at the tour’s outset, there is a good chance the poor unfortunate employee leading the tour will ask if you would
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like to just skip ahead to the free booze in an effort to be rid of you. Go ahead and take her up on it — you’re here to drink, not learn.
2. Kick Over Some Kid’s Arch at the Science Center Of course, another crown jewel attraction is the Saint Louis Science Center (5050 Oakland Avenue, 314-289-4400), a place of STEM education and studious observation. Sure, you could head to the Life Science Lab and learn about microbiology, or you could pop into the Makerspace and test your engineering abilities. But as all St. Louisans know, there is one place in this building where the real, lasting lessons are taught. We’re referring, of course, to the Structures exhibit — specifically the Icons and Monuments area, where you can build your own Gateway Arch out of foam blocks. Or, to put it more precisely, you can teach some befuddled kid a thing or two about just how far a grownup can punt a foam block across a place of learning. Make sure no parents or employees see you or it’s your ass.
3. Get Wet at Citygarden Climate-wise, spending a summer in St. Louis is roughly equivalent to living within a weightlifter’s sweaty armpit. Air-conditioning bills skyrocket in June, July and August, and who can afford that? This year, beat the heat by lying down in one of the fountains at Citygarden (801 Market Street, 314-241-3337) for several hours. Sure, there will be confused children and families, but you’ll be so comfortable — finally, mercifully — that you won’t even care. Note: This publication does not recommend that you carefully line up and sit your ass directly onto one of the jets. We cannot stress that enough, you pervert. It’s just not right. Ah, whatever, what the hell, go ahead.
4. Wander Around in the Middle of the Street What if you could wander around in the street without getting hit by cars all the time? Broken limbs get old quickly, after all. Now you finally have a reprieve, thanks to STL Open Streets (stlopenstreets.com),, an (stlopenstreets.com) organization that aims to kick cars out of the
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equation altogether, if only for a day. Originally launched as Ciclovia in Bogota, Columbia, in 1974, Open Streets is intended to bring neighbors closer together by opening up the roads to foot traffic and activities including yoga, dancing, hopscotch and games in what amounts to a great big block party. Best of all, as we all know about street festivals and block parties, the event is completely free. On June 2, Compton Avenue will be closed to vehicles from Meramec Street to Cherokee for Open Streets, and organizers hope to expand to more neighborhoods as the event catches on.
5. Smuggle Liquor into the Muny Just because you are a shameless drunk, that doesn’t mean you’re not also a high-minded sophisticate. And so it’s time to get a little culture — and what better place than the Muny (1 Theatre Drive, 314-361-1900) to accomplish that? Billed as America’s oldest and largest outdoor musical theater, the Muny regularly provides roughly 1,500 free seats in the amphitheater’s last nine rows on a first-come, first-served basis. Spice up your evening of culture by smuggling in some liquor — a simple Ziploc bag filled and shoved down the pants will do, though if you have a budget for better supplies you might try one of those hollow sets of fake binoculars. Now in its 100th season, the Muny this year offers the likes of The Wiz, Singin’ in the Rain, Annie and, naturally, Meet Me in St. Louis. As with all musicals, each and every one of those shows benefits from a less-than-sober mindset in its audience. You’ll be way ahead of the game.
6. See the St. Louis Symphony Orchestra for Nothing Speaking of culture, did you know that St. Louis has one of the finest symphony orchestras in the coun-
try? It’s true — but even though these musicians are of the worldclass variety, you don’t necessarily have to pay out the nose to see them perform. In fact, in addition to headlining this year’s Fair St. Louis, the St. Louis Symphony Orchestra hosts several Community Concerts each year that are altogether free of charge. On May 23, for instance, you can catch several of the symphony’s musicians at the International Institute (3401 Arsenal Street, 314-773-9090) for Music Without Boundaries, a celebration of world music including sounds from Somalia, Syria, Bosnia, Congo, Cuba and more. The SLSO regularly adds new free shows throughout its season; check back at slso.org/en/com/ community_concerts for more opportunities to class it up without breaking the bank.
7. Visit the New Arch Grounds, Don’t Ride in the Arch One of the most St. Louis things a person can do is look at the Arch, think about riding up it in one of those claustrophobic egg-shaped trams, and then decide, “Nah, I’m good.” Now, with the stunning $380 million renovations to the surrounding Jefferson National Expansion Memorial — recently re-dubbed the Gateway Arch National Park (11 North 4th Street) in a classic case of “Why didn’t we do that sooner?” — you can stroll right up to that big beautiful horseshoe from downtown in an unprecedented way before scratching your chin, setting your jaw and announcing, “Nah, hard pass.” Though the new grounds are open for business, the museum at the Arch isn’t set to re-open until July 3, so you’ll have to wait until then to head down there, learn about St. Louis’ history and then loudly proclaim that there’s no way in hell you’re going up in
that damn terrifying elevator ever again, sorry.
8. Attend Fair St. Louis at the New Arch Grounds For the past four years, America’s Biggest Birthday Party has taken place in Forest Park, which is cool and all, but it isn’t the event’s real home. That would be at the foot of the Arch, where the giant July 4 celebration was held every year since 1981 before construction on the grounds saw it temporarily relocated. This year Fair St. Louis brings Jason Derulo, Martina McBride and the St. Louis Symphony for a three-day party (July 4, 6 and 7) to help us celebrate America. Though the event’s temporary home was fun — and even brought record crowds — there’s just something special about taking in live music in the shadow of our city’s most recognizable symbol. What could be more St. Louis than that?
9. See Some Blues at the Arch Let us answer our previous question: If that music was the blues — that’s what would make music at the Arch more St. Louis. Our city’s blues bona fides are beyond reproach. If the rich and storied history of St. Louis’ many contributions to the genre aren’t enough to convince you, the fact that we’re home to the National Blues Museum should. And the museum is constantly reminding St. Louis of its place in blues history as well, including with the Blues at the Arch series. Now in its third year, Blues at the Arch brings wellknown blues artists from all over the map to perform with that glorious gleaming piece of stainless steel as a backdrop each Friday in August. This year’s performers include such heavyweights as Marquise Knox and Dexter Allen (see bluesatthearch.com for more details). You’ll definitely want to find yourself singing the blues at the foot of the Arch this summer.
10. See the Clydesdales in Person, Try to Steal One The Budweiser Clydesdales are some of the most famous horses
on all of television, and they live right here in St. Louis! If you’ve ever wanted to meet a giant celebrity horse in person — and obviously you have, as a good St. Louisan — look no further than Grant’s Farm (10501 Gravois Road, 314-577-2626), where in addition to serving free beer to every guest (yes, really) your gracious Busch family hosts train up more than 50 Clydesdales ranging in age from six months to fifteen years old to sell beer to the masses. If no one is looking, you might consider climbing up onto one of them and kicking your spurs into its sides. The cool thing about stealing a horse is that if you do it successfully, you already have a built-in getaway vehicle. And what could be better than a free horse?
11. Attend the Great Forest Park Balloon Race, Try to Steal One Too .... A free hot-air balloon, that’s what. This is a conveyance that moves up and down as well as
this year — but considering its wild popularity, we’d be remiss to not mention it. Held on the front lawn of the Missouri History Museum (5700 Lindell Boulevard, 314-746-4599), the series brings food trucks and musicians to scenic Forest Park at a price that every St. Louisan can enjoy: free. And there’s an extra-special reason to highlight May 29’s event: The performer on that evening is local singer Taynka, tackling the music of no less than Queen Bey herself. Sure, it’s not the real Beyonce, but who could afford that?
13. Attend Free Family Night at the Magic House The Magic House (516 South Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood; 314822-8900) is a St. Louis institution, beloved by children of all ages. But $11 for admission? For that much money you could buy two Ted Drewes concretes and half of a medium one-topping from Imo’s, or like five Stag beers from your local dive bar of choice. Save that money for those more important purchases by attending Free Family Night. Every third Friday of the month from 5:30 to 9 p.m. the Magic House allows families of up to two adults and four children to stroll into the place at no charge. It’s a deal good enough to blow your hair back — or wait, was that just that weird ball of electricity everyone gets pictures with?
14. Participate in Make Music Day back and forth or side to side, opening up your escape plan options considerably. And at the Great Forest Park Balloon Race (Wells Drive, 314-993-2901), to be held this year on September 14 and 15, you’ll have dozens of brightly colored airborne chariots to choose from. Plan accordingly, though: It’s gonna be difficult to convince your new horse that flying is a good idea.
12. Watch Some Live Music in the Park St. Louis’ Twilight Tuesdays Concert Series only barely qualifies as a summer affair — the May 29 show is the last one on the books
Founded in 1982 in France as the Fête de la Musique, Make Music Day has since spread to more than 700 cities and countries — including St. Louis. Now in its third year, the celebration of music is as free as free can be, which means it is a St. Louisan’s dream. The rules are simple: On June 21, anyone who is capable of playing music is encouraged to do so; likewise, anywhere that is capable of hosting music should do so as well. Past years have seen musicians set up on porches, patios, storefronts and streets to get in on the fun. Participating artists and venues have not yet been announced — visit makemusicstl.org for more info or to sign up as a volunteer, venue or musician. Regardless of the details, one thing about this
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event is for sure: The price is right.
15. Visit the Graffiti Flood Wall St. Louis is well known for its free art museum, showcasing some of the finest artists in the country. No, not that one — that one is fine too, but we’re referring, of course, to the Graffiti Flood Wall (Chouteau Avenue and South Leonor K Sullivan Boulevard). Located down by the riverfront near the Arch grounds, the flood wall has been a destination for years for some of the most talented graffiti artists in the country thanks to St. Louis’ annual Paint Louis event, a legal, citysanctioned affair. Head on down and take it all in, or if you really want to spice up your life, bring a can of spray paint and write “TOY” real big across the murals. Just be aware that someone is definitely going to kill you for that.
16. Make a Bunch of Noise at the Library The library, that holy bastion of free books, free movies, free CDs — paradise for the thrifty St. Louisan, truly — has upped the ante in recent years with another freebie that you may not have expected: free live music. Sure, the library might seem like an odd place for amplified instruments, what with the cliche of shushing librarians and all, but the Central Branch of St. Louis Public Library (1301 Olive Street, 314-241-2288) flips that notion on its head with the Not So Quiet! Series. Held on the third Thursday of every month, the series brings some of St. Louis’ best artists to a normally hushed room and encourages them to make a racket. This year’s lineup sees performances by Kansas tribute band Portrait, Pink Floyd tribute band Red White & Floyd, Charles “Skeet” Rodgers and Joanna Connor, to name a few. For more information, visit slpl.bibliocommons.com.
17. Stare at Photos of Old-Timey St. Louis We all know what St. Louis looks like now: There are weird concrete balls and highlighter-colored bikes everywhere, and no one has any idea how to navigate their cars around any of ’em. But what of the St. Louis of the past? The Missouri History Museum (5700 Lindell Boulevard, 314-7464599) is here to help with Panoramas of the City, an installation
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“ANCHORED IN LOVE, GROWTH, AND EMPOWERMENT” THE 26TH ANNUAL
20 FREE THINGS Continued from pg 17
featuring more than 50 panorama photos from the first half of the 20th century — some blown up to life-sized proportions. The installation runs through August 12, and will surely illuminate whatever obstacle bad drivers blamed for their mistakes in the ’50s. The more things change, the more they stay the same.
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18. Catch Some Music at the Botan The Missouri Botanical Garden (4344 Shaw Boulevard, 314-5775100) is, no question, a place of idyllic beauty, but with prices ranging from $3 to $12 for admission, who can afford it? That equates to between one and three packs of Bronsons from Quiktrip — surely a more pressing use for that money. Luckily, the people behind the Botan (do we still call it “the Botan”?) know that you are hopelessly cheap, and they are here to help. Not only is the garden free to city and county residents before noon on Wednesdays and Saturdays, but the Whitaker Music Festival comes with free admission as well. This year you can see St. Louis musicians including Gene Jackson, Lamar Harris, John Henry and the Funky Butt Brass Band perform, with concerts each Wednesday through July 25. You can even bring a picnic blanket. Smoke if you got ’em — you can afford it now.
19. Trap Some Hippies at the Sculpture Park If there is one thing that hippies love, it’s drugs. But if there are two things that hippies love, it’s drugs and outdoor sculpture parks where you can wander around in
public after taking drugs. Take advantage of this ancient wisdom by heading to Laumeier Sculpture Park (12580 Rott Road, 314-6155278) to capture some hippies and make off with their goods. First, you’ll want to pick an empty pizza box out of the trash at your local Imo’s. Next, head to the wooded portion of the park, where its many trails pass by numerous impressive works of art. Set the box on the ground and build a snare trap. When some stoners come walking through, looking for a suitable place to get high — and they will — whoosh! Up into the sky they go, hanging upside-down by their feet, illicit substances raining to the ground below. Scoop up your haul and flee deep into the woods to consume them. Remember to be wary of any attractive boxes of food you may subsequently see sitting on the ground, though: Turnabout is fair play.
20. Repent From Your Sins at the Cathedral Basilica If you’ve been studiously following this guide’s recommendations, you’ve by now committed quite a few sins (not to mention crimes). It happens! And if you must atone, you might as well do so at one of the most breathtakingly beautiful churches in the world. The Cathedral Basilica (4431 Lindell Boulevard, 314-373-8200), finished in 1914, is home to the largest mosaic installation in the Western hemisphere, comprising 41.5 million pieces of glass. The Cathedral’s basement even houses a museum dedicated to the various artifacts found within the building over the years — the church asks for a small donation to peruse that portion of the building, but you can probably get away with not paying if you’re just a little crafty. After all, you need to get back to sinning if you want to justify coming back here again anytime soon, right? Confession, by the way, is free. ■
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2. Take one last swing at Tower Tee A south-county institution beloved for its batting cages, driving range and mini golf, Tower Tee (6727 Heege Road, 314-4815818) kept the area swinging for 50 years. Now it’s set to become a residential housing development, and July 10 is the last day to step up to the plate or tee (sob!). But whether you plan to stop by daily while you still can or just get one last round in, you’d also be wise to mark July 8 on your calendar: That day, a special farewell music festival is planned on the driving range. Keep an eye on www.towertee.com for more details and pricing information.
3. Race around in a go-kart
If you’re still despondent over the loss of Tower Tee even after the music festival, may we remind you that Swing-A-Round (two locations, including 335 Skinker
4. See the Cardinals for $5/game ... or less Admission to a Cardinals game, for less money than a burger and fries at McDonald’s? Believe it. The Budweiser Ballpark Pass (www. mlb.com/cardinals/tickets/specials/ballpark-pass) is just $29.99/ month, and gives you access to any Cardinals home game you’re interested in attending. All you need is a smartphone and the willingness to pay that monthly fee; after that, you can show up any night you want and claim your standingroom-only ticket. Don’t feel like standing? Savvy fans have been known to browse StubHub to see which seats are still available for any given game, then sidle over to those — or simply head to the Budweiser Terrace, where there are no assigned seats and mingling is encouraged. Score!
PHOTO CREDIT: ALBERTO SANCHEZ
The menu at the Boathouse at Forest Park (6101 Government Drive, 314-366-1555) is new and much improved this spring, with Sugarfire Events running the kitchen and keeping the drinks flowing at two outdoor bars. But other reasons to visit have nothing to do with consuming calories and everything to do with burning them. The newly formed Boathouse Paddle Co., a partnership between Sugarfire and Big Muddy Adventures, now offers kayaks, canoes and standup paddle in addition to paddleboats. Kayaks and regular paddleboards are just $15/ hour; grab a friend and get the XL version, a canoe or paddleboat for $20/hour. Unfortunately, reservations are only accepted for parties needing ten or more boats; if you’re not in a huge group, come early or plan to spend some time pre-gaming at the bar. Did we mention there are now two of them?
Lane, Fenton; 636-349-7077) has it all going on? Its outdoor fun centers in St. Charles and Fenton both offer batting cages, mini golf, an arcade and go-karts. And if that’s not tantalizing enough, we’ve got two words for you: bumper boats. Go-kart pricing starts at just $7, with bumper boats going for $6. Bringing the whole fam? On Sundays, you can get a pizza, a pitcher of soda and $5 towards the games of your choice for just $19.95.
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5. ... or check out some minor-league action The Fourth of July means America, baseball and fireworks, which is what you’ll get when the Gateway Grizzlies host a three-game series against the Windy City ThunderBolts at GCS Credit Union Ballpark (2301 Grizzlie Bear Boulevard, Sauget, Illinois) July 2 to 4. The Grizzlies always celebrate the holiday with All-American Week, which includes a salute to the troops, post-game fireworks and Frontier League prices (lawn and bleacher seats are just $6 to $11). And don’t forget the concessions, which are insane. The hamburgers use donuts for buns, the hot dogs come with two kinds of bacon, sauerkraut, onions and nacho cheese, and the infamous cheesesteak nachos are just like the Founding Fathers used to eat.
6. Have a beer and a hotdog on the patio Does anything say “summer in St. Louis” better than a low-key
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patio in south city with dogs on the grill and an ice-cold beer in a koozie? If you’re too lazy to cook and would rather kick back with strangers than get stuck playing hostess, Tower Grove East offers the perfect lazy-day summer setting, with neighbors Tick Tock Tavern (3459 Magnolia Avenue) and Steve’s Hot Dogs (3457 Magnolia Avenue, 314-932-5953) working in perfect symbiosis. Start at one and head to the other, or vice-versa; no matter what your method, you can’t lose when the components are this good.
7. Stand in line at Ted Drewes Sure, the hot and hungry hordes queue up at Ted Drewes (6726 Chippewa Street, 314-481-2652) for the pleasure of its delicious concretes, but we’d posit there’s more to the experience than just cheap ice cream in a steamy parking lot. Young and old, rich and poor, city and county all stand in the same line … and then carve out a corner of asphalt or a car bumper to inhale their ice cream. There is simply no better people-watching in the entire city than the Chippewa shop on a busy summer night.
8. Pet the stingrays at the zoo The Saint Louis Zoo (Government Drive, 314-781-0900) is famously free, but that doesn’t mean you have to come empty-handed. If you’re prepared to drop just $15, you can see the city’s No. 1 attraction like a baller — carousel rides ($3/person), the sea lion show ($4/ person) and unlimited rides on the zoo train ($8/person). Or, for just $4 per person, check out the Stingrays of Caribbean Cove, a special exhibit open through September 30. Observe and even touch the
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stingrays as they swim around their 17,000-gallon pool … with no fear of death à la Steve Irwin. Zoo staff trim back the stingrays’ barbs, a process compared to clipping fingernails. For an extra $1, you can get food to feed the rays or a photo documenting the experience.
9. See the city on a LimeBike or an Ofo Getting out of your car doesn’t mean you have to hoof it. This spring, both LimeBike and Ofo set up shop in St. Louis, and now tooling around town on a bicycle is as easy as downloading one of their apps and paying a nominal fee. LimeBike charges $1 for every 30 minutes; Ofo charges $1 an hour. That could get even cheaper, depending on where you live and who you are. LimeBike offers discounts for both anyone with an “.edu” email address and residents of certain neighborhoods.
10. Bowl a strike at the area’s newest alley The city is chock-full of places to bowl, but you haven’t seen anything ’til you’ve laced up your bowling shoes at Bowlero (8070 Veterans Memorial Parkway, St. Peters; 636-474-2695). The megaplex offers wall-to-wall arcade games, pool tables, three bars, seating for up to 1,000 guests and, yes, plenty of bowling lanes. If showing off on Instagram is a hobby, Bowlero is worth a visit just for the food offerings. In addition to normalsized vittles, the kitchen cooks up “pizza cake” that’s like the biggest pizza lasagna you’ve ever seen, a two-foot-long hotdog and a sevenpound burger perfect for, well, slicing into like a birthday cake. Still not enough for you? How about unlimited laser tag every Wednesday for $9.99? —Sarah Fenske and Paul Friswold
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Feeling Drafty These twelve St. Louis tap rooms will keep you hydrated even in the heat of summer ﬔe Civil Life Brewing Company
3714 Holt Avenue, no phone Civil Life is the neighborhood pub of breweries. Its location on a two-block street at the southern tip of Tower Grove South is convenient for locals who tend to walk and bike over, even as newcomers might easily zip past the turn off Chippewa. Still, everyone who finds their way here gets a warm welcome, led by a staff whose friendliness goes far beyond mere civility. The bar itself spans the length of the slim tap room, facing long communal tables. An upstairs loft offers more seating, including private booths. The food menu is a small, well-made offering of sandwiches, unless you come on a Sunday. Then you’ll find tacos during warm-weather months and soups when it is cold. The focus here is doing a small number of things well. The result is a cozy, wellmanaged place where, if you’re not a growler-toting local already, you might find yourself checking real estate listings on one of the brick bungalows nearby.
2nd Shift Brewing
1601 Sublette Avenue, 314-669-9013 2nd Shift’s tasting room sits in a warehouse, and not one of those century-old, industrial chic spots that are lit with Edison bulbs and used as the backdrop for wedding photos. Think corrugated metal siding and concrete floors in the style of an airplane hangar or auto-parts distribution center. It sits behind the sliding gate of a chainlink fence on a bland, blue-collar district on the edge of the Hill. And yet, the place has its charms, recognizable to anyone who has ever filled a pint from the Kegerator in
his buddy’s garage ... only the beer at 2nd Shift is probably better. The food — Guerrilla Street has its own spot here — is definitely better. Function follows form at 2nd Shift, and that’s refreshing in an era where brewers seem to spend as much time thinking about their Instagram accounts as their beer. During good weather, grab yourself a pint, walk outside as the motion light clicks on and look out across a culvert on a working city.
Side Project Brewing
7458 Manchester Road, Maplewood; 314-224-5211 At this point, it’s safe to say that there is no longer anything “side” about Corey King’s Side Project Brewing. What started as a way to stoke his internal creative fire while working as head brewer at Perennial Artisan Ales has turned into one of the city’s most renowned breweries, revered for barrel-aged brews that harken back to King’s passion for wine. Side Project is not just well known in St. Louis; King has garnered a national reputation for his exceptional beer and special releases, which draw throngs of devotees to the Maplewood brewery. Not that it takes a special release to prompt a visit. The large, lightfilled room, staffed by beer nerds who will politely hold your hand through even the most esoteric of tastings, seems less a brewpub and more like beer church. Head to the back, where you can crack open a bottle of Saison du Fermier while overlooking the fermentation tanks, and it’s like sitting at the altar. Just don’t come hungry. There is no food served at the brewery and no outside food or drink allowed inside — not that you would want for anything else at this must-visit spot.
Alpha Brewing Company
4310 Fyler Avenue, 314-621-2337 Alpha’s new home in Tower Grove South is about as attractive as they come. Inside the former home of James Shaw & Son Marble & Tile Contractors (do not be confused
by the former tenant’s still-intact sign; you are in the right place), a moderately sized hall lies beneath a framework of pitched beams like the overturned hull of a ship. A U-shaped bar has seating along the prongs, and a white-on-black mural featuring a diver in an oldschool drysuit fills the back wall. Order some tostones, empanadas or maybe the jibarito sandwich from the side window of the Alphateria, the Latin-themed kitchen run by Mandy Estrella of Plantain Girl. Alpha’s tap room offers open tables, bar seating, a couch and, if you’re looking for a little more privacy, booths walled in by tall wood-and-glass partitions. The patio was partially finished on our last visit, but already made for a perfectly pleasant warmweather hangout.
Perennial Artisan Ales
8125 Michigan Avenue, 314-631-7300 Perennial has taken over the backside of an old Coca-Cola factory and turned it into a beer oasis in the Patch neighborhood of deep south city. A wide patio (and plenty of parking) greets visitors to the big brick complex. Inside, the tasting room is shaped like an L. On your left is long wood-plank bar with an attractive, etched-glass mirror back. Tufted aqua-green bar stools add to the stylish retro feel, and a mix of tables (along with dart boards) await guests who venture past the room’s elbow. Food is made in-house, and while the menu changes, you can expect shareable small-plate options and a couple of sandwiches with most of their ingredients from local sources. And if you’re not a beer drinker — or not exclusively a beer drinker — Perennial offers wine and a solid lineup of whiskeys. Unfortunately, this can’t be your every-day spot: The tasting room is only open Wednesday through Saturday.
Modern Brewery
5231 Manchester Avenue, no phone Co-founders Beamer Eisele and Ronnie Fink are working on a move to a huge new home in Old Webster, one that would have Modern Brewery working in connection with Olive + Oak (and, one presumes, feeding off its overflow traffic). But until that happens, you can grab a beer at the brewery’s tap room near Saint Louis University High School in the King’s Oak neighborhood. The warehousestyle space offers few frills, just some seats (mostly bar stools and
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picnic tables), cornhole and excellent beer. The tap room is open Fridays and Saturdays from 4 to 11 p.m., and while there’s no kitchen here, you’ll often find a food truck lingering outside.
Schlafly Tap Room
2100 Locust Street, 314-241-2337 Schlafly’s Downtown West outpost is the statesman of local beer halls. Yes, it feels a bit like a gift shop when you first enter the building, but you will be in the hands of professionals at the bar. The main room (another, more intimate setup is on the other side of the building) is mostly restaurant, with a view of the brewing works through a glass wall. The bar is a straightforward, L-shaped affair with worn elbow rails. The centerpiece is a green-tiled back bar with a Schlafly crest at its center. It gives the place enough gravity without being overly precious. The whole place has a certain aged respectability earned by one of the giants of the city’s local brewing scene, yet it still manages to be friendly and un-stuffy. It’s a solid, comfortable tap room that fits perfectly with Schlafly’s lineup of beers.
Urban Chestnut Brewing Company Two locations, including 3229 Washington Avenue, 314-222-0143 The huge patio at Urban Chestnut’s Midtown location is a gem, with rows of picnic tables to enjoy pints and pretzels or sandwiches from a cabana-like hut. Lots of visitors, understandably, breeze through the main building and go straight out to this broad courtyard biergarten. But the inside tap room is underappreciated as its own venue. Simply furnished with heavy library tables and banged-up wooden chairs, the space is an unfussy mix of brick, timber and concrete, brightened by huge panels of windows. The bar is small with maybe a halfdozen seats. If you are looking for a booming beer hall, try Urban’s sprawling spot on Manchester in the Grove. The original in Midtown is more of a place to meet up with a couple of friends, a place to drink and talk without having to shout to be heard.
4 Hands Brewing Company
1220 South 8th Street, 314-436-1559 This place is a playroom for adults. On offer are beer, skee-ball and nachos; might as well hang out.
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HELPING SCHLAFLY NAME: Sarah Frost ROLE: Packaging Designer YEARS WITH SCHLAFLY: 15 RESIDES IN: Maplewood WHICH SCHLAFLY EVENT IS YOUR FAVORITE? Art Outside. I enjoy the local focus and manageable scale of the art fair - it's small enough to be relaxed but large enough to show diverse artists. Plus, art and beer just go together. © 2018 The Saint Louis Brewery LLC, Saint Louis, MO
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FEELING DRAFTY Continued from pg 25
Located just south of downtown in the LaSalle Park neighborhood, 4 Hands provides two floors for thirsty customers, with the main beer hall in the upstairs of the brewery’s old brick building, a huge open room with enormous tables and plenty of space for big groups. Brick walls, exposed ductwork and tall, glass block windows give it that classic St. Louis warehouse feel. Projectors beam sporting events onto the wall behind a long, metal-topped bar. 4 Hands is also close to Busch Stadium, so expect spillover crowds stopping in before and after Cards games. The building has its own parking lot, which makes visiting that much easier. Along with the brisket nachos, you can get some top-class eats. South-city favorites Peacemaker and Sidney Street handle the food.
Earthbound Beer
Serving all St. Louisans since 1946
Voted Best Jewelry Store BY RFT READERS 2015-2016
2015
WINNER !
7 3 4 8 M A N C H E S T E R AV E . | 3 1 4 - 6 4 5 - 1 1 2 2 M A P L E W O O D | PA R A M O U N T J E W E L E R S . C O M 28
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2724 Cherokee Street, 314-769-9576 Four years ago, three business partners who had never owned a brewery opened Earthbound Beer in a storefront not much bigger than a closet you’d find inside a McMansion. They didn’t let the small size or lack of experience deter them, but instead embraced it, fashioning Earthbound into a counter-culture, experimental brew house. Their success was meteoric, and not long after they opened they realized they needed a bigger space. Cue Earthbound’s massive new brewery and tasting room, located just a few doors down from the original, a renovation of historic proportions that has made this funky brewery one of the coolest places in town to grab a beverage. Located in the old Cherokee Street Brewing Company stock house, the 8,000-square-foot space harkens back to the city’s pre-Prohibition status as a beer powerhouse and features everything from a suspended mezzanine to a lower level comprised of the building’s original beer caves. It’s a thrilling setting, at once historic and modern. It’s also serving some terrific food, with a food concept called Mothership courtesy of Chris Bork of Vista Ramen. And did we mention the beer? Sip on a cardamom pepper tea blonde inside this beautiful space and you’ll see nothing earth-bound about this brewery; it’s out of this world.
Six Mile Bridge
11841 Dorsett Road, Maryland Heights; 314-942-2211 If Maryland Heights seems out of the way for a good beer, consider how far co-owner Ryan Sherring had to travel to get there — all the way from Cape Town, South Africa. A former management consultant, Sherring left that world to pursue a passion for beer. That passion translated into the successful 021 Brewing Company in Cape Town, where he honed his craft until he and his wife decided to move back to St. Louis to be closer to her family. Here, the pair have embraced the city’s exploding craft-beer scene, making a name for themselves not just for brews like their signature Irish Red and excellent stouts but for their hospitality, which makes you feel like you are part of the family. More a community gathering place than a simple tap room, you’ll find regulars sipping beers while listening to a DJ spin vinyl, participating in a trivia night or going over the finer points of a special release with the Sherrings themselves. And though the brewery does not serve its own food, you will not go hungry. Look for restaurants and food trucks from around the community to show up and start feeding the crowd. Beer, food and trivia? We’d travel to the ends of the earth for that.
Wellspent Brewing
2917 Olive Street, no phone Kyle and Angela Kohlmorgen’s brewery is the new kid in town — it just opened in March. Their tap room is a lovely space, a former movie theater that they painstakingly renovated, creating a large light-filled room with high ceilings, lots of seating (both communal tables and regular twoand four-tops) and a stylish blackand-white motif. There’s also a great patio, walled with brick on two sides to give an intimate feel even on a particularly fastmoving stretch of Olive. You’ll find board games on a bookshelf near the entrance, but no food: While there’s a kitchen inside the space, the Kohlmorgens want to start things slow and perhaps add a culinary partner once they get their seat legs. The yeast-driven beers here are definitely for adults, but the tap room is decidedly kidfriendly; the Kohlmorgens have two youngsters of their own and made sure to add tot-sized picnic tables to the patio. —Doyle Murphy, Cheryl Baehr and Sarah Fenske
One S. Broadway 314.241.8439 360-stl.com Monday-Thursday 4 P -12A Friday & Saturday 4 P -2A Sunday 4 P -11P
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Fantastic St. Louis Junk Foods and When to Eat Them Written by
DANNY WICENTOWSKI
I
f junk food was really junk, it wouldn’t taste so good. If we were never meant to eat chips, deep-fried potatoes wouldn’t fold so splendidly into pockets of salt and ridges and crunching satisfaction. Ice cream wouldn’t be so wonderfully cold ... and soda wouldn’t bubble. While we’d never advocate excess for excess’ sake, few people on Earth can forever resist the call of their particular junk-food weakness. At some point, we all reach that hour of need. And what better time than summer in St. Louis? Certainly, after a bitter winter and fickle, late-breaking spring, a St. Louis summer deserves some St. Louismade junk food. Lazy nights on the front stoop call for something to munch on — and after those 3 a.m. summer nights, what tastes better than something unhealthy? Now, you might wonder: Is there a best St. Louis junk food? Let us not fight about rankings, just this once. Let each soul search for that answer. In the end, there’s little to be gained in pitting one collection of empty calories against another. You don’t need a food critic to tell you what pizza you like the most. The question before us today is when. When will that moment hit you this summer? We’ve come up with a list of strong possibilities.
1. When your sandwich is boring Old Vienna Red Hot Riplets
The chip lover’s chip, Red Hot Riplets punishes the soft palates of its devotees with searing spice even while rewarding them with tangy, barbecue-flavored bliss. However, these smoking-hot St. Louis-made snacks are more than a standalone food. They’re also salvation for bland sandwiches. Take that sub or even that leftover turkey club in the fridge and add a layer of these mouth-burners; you might realize that you’ve been
ruined for all other sandwiches, forever. There’s a reason Old Vienna started selling straight-up seasoning. Even so, there’s no replacing the tactile joy of crunching through a layer of smashedup chips on the way to sandwich heaven.
2, When you want a child-like sugar rush Vess Soda
Regardless of which Vess soda flavor is your fave — is it Whistle Orange? It’s Whistle Orange, isn’t it? — they’re all made of near-radioactive combinations of artificial flavorings and weapons-grade sugar. But for the last 100 years, the twenty or so sodas in the Vess stable have brought joy to generations, and the fact that these iconic cans and bottles still fill the shelves of St. Louis gas stations and corner stores is a minor miracle. Vess is just Vess; it’s not a shoddy copy of Coke or your run-of-the-mill generic supermarket fizz. Whether that’s nostalgia or fairy dust, it just works. And for the 21-and-up crowd, Vess’ hyper-sweet composition makes it a great friend to vodka.
3. When you’re feeling peak St. Louis Imo’s Pizza
Travelers to St. Louis may wonder why pieces of the town’s signature pizza have two sides too many, why its surface appears to exist in a realm in which the laws of physics don’t apply, or how such a thin crust supports the half-sunken cheese ooze that is Provel. These are legitimate questions. With Imo’s, however, those questions fly out the window on a wind of freshly made pizza brilliance that defies modern science. In St. Louis, Imo’s controversial nature makes it both junk food and delicacy, a puzzle box that when unlocked reveals the soul of this weird city. At times, it seems like the best food you’ve ever tasted; in others, it’s a crime against the very concept of food. It is pizza mimicking life, and eating it is a privilege every St. Louisan,
native or transplant, deserves to experience.
4. When you want to eat an entire cake Gooey butter cake
Just walking into south city’s Gooey Louie involves a blast of sugary atmosphere to the face. The sensation is even sharper when you open the box to the eight-by-eight square of half-inchtall perfection that is its signature gooey butter cake. Therein lies that sweet temptation: Sure, it’s technically a cake, and ethically one should feel compelled to share it with a friend, a coworker or even mom — “NO,” declares an inner voice as you cut into its soft yellow dough. “ALL FOR ME.” If you can manage to drive home without devouring the entire thing, you’re a champion of willpower. If the cake lasts for more than 24 hours, it’s surely proof that you’re dead.
5. When you just want really, really good chips Billy Goat chips
While brown paper bags are generally best-used for hiding your 40, the same packaging capably contains some of the best chips your mouth will ever taste. A local success story, Billy Goat Chip Company’s claims of “artisan quality” and “hand selected” ingredients are justified the moment you open one of its one-ounce sacks — the hand-cut potatoes that go into making these chips really are that good. And they’re so effortlessly crunchy and substantial that you won’t even be tempted to tilt that bag into your maw. You’ll want to savor these babies chip by chip. Thankfully, Billy Goat chips have
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found their way into dozens of local bars, stores and restaurants. Check the company’s website for an updated list, and raise the quality of your chip-snacking, pronto.
6. When the air turns to soup Ted Drewes Frozen Custard
St. Louis doesn’t know what to do with winter and spring, but it sure as hell knows summer. It’s hellish, with a humidity that would make the poisoned planet Venus retch, an atmosphere that delivers moisture to body regions best kept dry. And when those days hit, take refuge in the Arctic climes inside a Ted Drewes concrete swirled with a dizzying array of ingredients. The classic St. Louis-made frozen custard regularly attracts deep crowds to its two local locations, and while the hordes are worth braving, the proliferation of eightounce containers of Grandpa Ted’s most popular flavors at local restaurants and even the airport is a welcome alternative. With the world only getting hotter, St. Louis’ best-loved ice cream will only be that much more vital.
7. When you want to time-travel Crown Candy Kitchen malt
Although it could be argued that Crown Candy Kitchen is most famous for its fourteen-freakin’pieces-of-bacon BLT, no just judge can overlook its malts and milkshakes. With just the right amount of frosty chill, the malts deliver flavor without overload or brain freeze. Even the base vanilla option delivers an astonishing, elemental satisfaction; it’s as if you’ve opened a dictionary of tastes only to find a picture of the very malt in your hands.
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FANTASTIC JUNK FOOD Continued from pg 31
8. When you need walking-around snacks Gus’ Pretzels
Being on the go is immeasurably improved by portable food. Granted, not all foods work; a bowl of spaghetti would likely result in disaster. The offerings at Gus’ Pretzels, on the other hand, are the perfect solution for any mobile outing. The classic pretzels are baked daily in the same family-owned shop that opened in 1920, and they fulfill every requirement for mobile-eating success: Even stuffed with bratwurst or hotdogs, the pretzels are blessedly free of grease or wayward mustard, and they provide dense and salty nourishment. Of course, if you like a mess on your hands, the cinnamon-sugar and garlicbutter options will leave you with finger-licking mementos of your delicious encounter.
9. When you’re craving munchies Dad’s Cookies
An oatmeal cookie is a difficult thing to get right. Too soft, and you’re basically eating oatmeal; too hard, and you might as well try biting a river rock. The only remaining outlet of what was once a national chain, Dad’s Cookie Company is a south-city institution that makes it seem easy. That’s because Dad’s Original Scotch Oatmeal Cookie is, to put it lightly, the perfect cookie. Unadorned by raisins, it’s sized conveniently for popping into your mouth, but also holds up to light nibbling without leaving you covered in crumbs. Pro tip: 1. Smuggle bags of both Dad’s oatmeal and double chocolate-chip flavors into a movie theater. 2. Alternate between them. 3. Ascend to cookie nirvana.
10. When you want to share a straw Fitz’s Root Beer Float
Taking your relationship to the next level could involve something serious, like color-coordinating wedding flowers with baby-shower napkins, or something more fundamental, like fig-
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uring out whether you can share a mountain of ice cream slowly melting atop of stein full of root beer without sucking it down all by yourself. Leave the serious stuff for another time, and head to the Loop’s resident root-beer temple. The menu contains dozens of float options, although you can’t go wrong with a classic root beer. Unlike, say, uniting in holy matrimony, you won’t be risking your future happiness (or that of another soul) by saying “I do” to Fitz’s. The worst that happens is that you wind up sticky, or ordering another float. Win win.
11. When you need to chew the fat Switzer’s Licorice
Licorice has the curious attribute of being a candy that cannot be devoured in a moment — and if you try, have fun unsticking the sugary glob from the top of your mouth and rear teeth. You’d be wise to instead take a minute to savor it, and give one to a friend or whatever kids are in your life. And while Twizzlers may own the supermarket aisles, in St. Louis, Switzer’s is king: The candy’s founder was peddling the stuff by cart in 1888. These days, thanks to a recent revival, the chewy candies can be found at Straub’s and most Cracker Barrels. The licorice twists and bites are shipped out fresh so they burst with flavor. Peel off a twist and chew it contemplatively.
12. When you want to expand your junk-food horizons Pimped Out Pickles
With a bold name that plays on the cult TV show Pimp My Ride, Pimped Out Pickles made an immediate impression upon opening in 2014 with a 50-strong menu selection that’s as comprehensive as it is eclectic. On that menu, you’ve got options like piña colada pickles, the popular “Sweet-n-Spicy,” and fruit-flavored pickles including strawberry, pineapple and black cherry — but, like the ocean, the deeper you go, the stranger and more fantastic the discoveries become. There’s “Pimpjuice” and “Flava-Flav,” peppermint and “Volcano” pickles and even a host of Jolly Rancher-flavored pickles, if that’s your thing. Just keep in mind the brick-and-mortar store at 2801 North Kingshighway is only open Saturday, although you can still get your pickle fix at various corner markets and gas stations across the St. Louis region. Check out the shop’s Facebook page for an updat■ ed list and get your pickle on!
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que T-shirt at the Lake of the Ozarks (e.g., Big Dicks Halfway Inn, Shady Gators, “Came on Vacation, Left on Probation,” etc.)? +2 points for each. 10. What bumper stickers are currently on your car? +1 each for KDHX, K-SHE, KMOX, any local record store, “Eat-Rite or Don’t Eat at All.”
Are You a True St. Louisan? Written by
PAUL FRISWOLD
Food
I
s it possible to quantify just how St. Louis a given person is? RFT researchers believe the answer is an emphatic yes. With a staff comprising locals and non-locals, we’ve observed a sharp distinction between the two castes — and after numerous heated conversations, the differences boil to the surface and become recognizable. We believe this simple quiz will in fact separate the St. Louisan from the “other.” Warning: Do not use Google or trivia books or hack into the Houston Astros database to get the answers; St. Louisans know who is the real deal and who’s a transplant. Search engines cannot save you from their scorn.
Fashion
1. Does your hat promote a local business? Give yourself two points for yes. 2. Are you wearing one of those green St. Patrick’s Day promo hats with a Blues logo? +3 for yes. 3. Do you currently own any piece of clothing that was a giveaway at a Cardinals game? +5 for yes. 4. Do you still wear any garment that bears the name of your St. Louis high school? +20 for yes. 5. Do you own more than twenty pieces of St. Louis Cardinals flair? +20 for yes; +50 if they’re for the football Cardinals. (You poor bastard.) 6. Do you own any memorabilia for the NFL team currently owned by the wealthy shitstain Stan “I’m not bald, my hair is just really bashful” Kroenke? +5 for yes. Real St. Louisans love even after they’ve been hurt. 7. Have you ever owned a pair of “the businessman’s short pants” proposed by Bill McClellan back in the ’80s? +10 for yes. If you’re actually Bill McClellan, give yourself another 25 points for a great idea ahead of its time. 8. Is there any event when flipflops aren’t appropriate? +2 for no. A true St. Louisan doesn’t require formality for weddings, confirmations, church or court dates. 9. Have you ever bought a ris-
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1. Where did the St. Paul sandwich originate? +1 for St. Louis, -5 for St. Paul. 2. What are the ingredients in a Gerber sandwich? +3 if you said garlic bread, Provel, ham and paprika. You must get all four ingredients. 3. What shape is a piece of pizza? +1 for “square”; zero points for anything else. 4. What was served at your wedding reception? Sorry, but you get zero points for “mostaccioli.” It’s the law, and instead you must subtract five points if mostaccioli isn’t on your list. 5. What is the catchphrase associated with Ted Drewes? “It really is good, guys!” gets you +3. Anything else is wrong.
Education
1. What school is your high school rival? You get zero points for knowing; lose half your points if you didn’t recall immediately. 2. How many of your close friends went there too? +1 for each one. 3. How many went to the rival school? Lose five points for each one. 4. Is your significant other from that school? +10 for literally fucking a rival. So hot! 5. Have you attended any St. Louis high school reunion, whether your own, a spouse’s or that of a loved one? +1 for each one.
Pastimes
1. Have you ever attended a St. Louis World Series Parade? Zero points for yes (it’s mandatory); lose five points for no. 2. Have you ever attended a St. Louis Super Bowl parade? +100 for yes. No shitty rich guy can ever steal that from you. 3. Which of the following local festivals have you attended: Greek Fest (either the city or the county one), Japanese Fest, Point Fest, Soulard Oktoberfest, Soulard Mardi Gras, Fair St. Louis, Festival of Nations, Shakespeare Festival St. Louis? +1 for each. 4. How many times have you puked at or immediately follow-
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ing Soulard Mardi Gras? +5 for each time. 5. Have you heckled a child in a Cubs hat at any of the Busch Stadia? +2 for yes, +5 if you shouted “he/she was asking for it!” at the angry parent of said child afterward. 6. Have you seen a show at the Muny? +5 for yes. 7. Have you ever attended a performance by the St. Louis Symphony? +5 for yes, and yes, your school field trip counts as “attending.” 8. Have you won at trivia? +1 for yes, zero points for no. All locals have won trivia at least once. 9. Have you ever decorated the trivia table? +1 for yes, zero for no. 10. Your favorite sibling has planned her wedding for October 27. You’re in the wedding party and have your speech written. October rolls around and the Cards are in the World Series; Game 4 is the same night as the wedding, and you are offered a ticket for a really good seat. Which event do you attend? Trick question; no St. Louisan would schedule a wedding during the same month as the World Series. +10 if you volunteered this answer. Zero points for everything else.
Trivia
1. How many aldermanic wards does St. Louis have? +3 for “way too many.” 2. When was St. Louis founded? +3 points for 1764. 3. Which of the following countries never posessed St. Louis: England, France, Spain, Germany? +1 each for England and Germany. (The Germans just think they own it.) 4. Complete the following essential St. Louis jingle: “For a hole in your roof, or a _____ .” +1 for “whole new roof, Frederick Roofing!” 5. What is Mike Shannon’s nickname? +5 for “Moon Man,” subtract 10 if you don’t know.
6. Which of the following people were born in St. Louis: Ozzie Smith, Phyllis Diller, Tennessee Williams, Scott Bakula, Maya Angelou, Yoga Berra, Chuck Berry, Fred “Rerun” Berry, Halle Berry, Steve Gerber, Dick Gregory, Huey Lewis, Harold Ramis, Tina Turner and Ike Turner? (Smith, Diller, Williams, Halle Berry, Lewis, Tina, Ike and Ramis were not born here. +7 if you got the others, who were.) 7. As of April 2018, which of the following people do not have a star on the St. Louis Walk of Fame: Curt Flood, Rogers Hornsby, Tony LaRussa, Red Schoendienst, George Sisler? +5 for eternal outsider Tony LaRussa. 8. Which of the following were filmed at least in part in St. Louis: Up in the Air, Game of Their Lives, Meet Me in St. Louis, Planes, Trains & Automobiles, Escape from New York and The Cannonball Run? All except Meet Me in St. Louis were filmed at least in part in St. Louis. +2 for each correct answer. 9. What is the only thing worth knowing about Stormy Daniels’ attorney Michael Avenatti? +2 for “Parkway Central High School grad,” zero points for “could take down the U.S. president.” 10. St. Louisans love beer, unhealthy food, baseball, high school, trivia, nostalgia and, of course, St. Louis. What differentiates St. Louisans from a 54-yearold history teacher? +5 for “there is no distinction.”
Bonus Question
Were you born in St. Louis? Lose 5,000 points if no. +5,000 points if yes.
Results
5,000 points or fewer? No. No, you’re not a St. Louisan. 5,001 points or greater? Yes, you are perfectly St. Louis in every way. n
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Spend warm summer evenings outdoors enjoying great music played at four of the St. Louis Public Library’s larger locations. Bring your lawn chair or blanket. Coolers are welcome!
CONCERTS BEGIN AT 7 P.M.*
JULIA DAVIS
4415 NATURAL BRIDGE AVE.
8/16
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JOANNA CONNOR BLUES
NSQ! Concert Series is made possible by generous support from: *In case of severe weather, Live on the Road concerts may be cancelled.
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YOUR SANDWICH PUB IN THE GROVE
20 BEERS ON TAP PLUS A ROTATING SELECTION OF BOTTLES & CANS POOL TABLE • GIANT PAC MAN • BOARD GAMES • DJS THURS-SUN @ 10:30PM
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IN
Day or night, there’s always something going on in The Grove: live bands, great food, beer tastings, shopping events, and so much more. Visit thegrovestl.com for a whole lot more of what makes this neighborhood great.
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PORTRAIT: THE MUSIC OF KANSAS $15, 7PM AT ATOMIC COWBOY
SUNDAY, MAY 27 LEFTOVER SALMON, CLUSTERPLUCK, GRASSFED MULE $25, 6PM AT ATOMIC COWBOY
TUESDAY, MAY 29 INTERN NIGHT #4: DAWN OF THE NIM, TOASTER, 3 OF 5, HUHT, A LEAF IN THE STREET, SKIN TAGS
WEDNESDAY, MAY 30 LA LUZ, THE WHIFFS
$12-14, ALL AGES, 7PM AT THE READY ROOM
FRIDAY, JUN 1 THE WONDER YEARS, GLASSJAW, TINY MOVING PARTS, WORRIERS
$23-25, ALL AGES, 6PM AT THE READY ROOM
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IN THE GROVE
$20, ALL AGES, 8PM AT THE READY ROOM
$5, ALL AGES, 8PM AT THE READY ROOM
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JUNE 20-26, 2018 MAY 23 - 29, 2018
RIVERFRONT TIMES 25 RIVERFRONT TIMES 37
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2
CALENDAR
BY PAUL FRISWOLD
The Greek Fest is for people of Greek descent ... and anybody who likes to eat. | STEVE TRUESDELL
FRIDAY 05/25 Spring to Dance
Schlafly’s Art Outside
Dance St. Louis has coordinated the Spring to Dance Festival for eleven years now, but this year’s installment appears to be the largest ever mounted at the Touhill Performing Arts Center on the University of Missouri-St. Louis campus (1 University Drive at Natural Bridge Road; www.touhill. org). There are three rounds of performances every night, starting at 5:30 p.m. in the lobby and then moving to the Lee Theatre at 6 p.m. and finishing on the Main Stage at 7:30 p.m. Companies scheduled to dance include Hui Hula ’O Punahele Hula Halau, Wewolf, Pas de Monkéy Dance Project and several joint performances by combined ballet companies (the Houston Ballet and the National Ballet of Canada, and the San Francisco Ballet and National Ballet of Cuba). How much will you pay for all this movement? Not as much as you might fear. Tickets to the 6 p.m. shows are $10, and 7:30 p.m. performances cost $15, while the lobby shows are free. If you want to go all out, you can see all three shows for $20. Spring to Dance takes place on Friday and Saturday, May 25 and 26.
Schlafly’s Art Outside began in 2004 as a showcase for St. Louis artists who couldn’t get a foot in the door at other art fairs. Fifteen years later, more than 60 area artists and artisans are slated to fill the front lot of the Schlafly Bottleworks (7260 Southwest Avenue, Maplewood; www.schlafly.com) for this year’s fair. Painters, photographers, jewelry makers, wood workers — you can find everything from the hand-carved bone pendants of Keltner’s Carvings to the modern rag dolls and stuffed animals of Riley Construction. This year’s Art Outside takes place from 5 to 10 p.m. Friday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday and 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday (May 25 to 27), with bands playing all three days, art activities for the kids and fresh food and beer sold on-site. Admission is still free.
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Summer Zoo Weekends It’s almost guaranteed that when you meet someone new to St. Louis, you ask them if they’ve been to the Saint Louis Zoo, which, as we all know, is free. But during
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the Prairie Farm Summer Zoo Weekends, the zoo stays open late and hosts special activities Friday through Sunday (May 25 to September 3, except for Friday, June 15). On Jungle Boogie Fridays, local musicians ranging from bluesman Marquise Knox to the classic piano rock of the Midnight Piano Band play in the center of the zoo. You can take a half-hour guided Safari Tour ($5) and get up close to the residents while you’re there.
SATURDAY 05/26 Regina Regina Hubbard Giddens became wealthy and powerful by choice. Denied her share of the family fortune inherited by her two brothers, she marries the rich but mild-mannered Horace for his money. When her brothers offer her a buy-in on their new financial scheme, she’s infuriated by Horace’s rejection of the plan and even more angered by his outright refusal to just give her the money. This sets Regina on a path to ruin every man in her extended family, and her chosen tools are murder, blackmail and whatever else comes to mind. Lillian Hellman’s play The Little Foxes pro-
vides the basis for the opera Regina, written and composed by Marc Blitzstein. Opera Theatre St. Louis presents Regina as its second show of the summer, with mezzo-soprano Susan Graham in the title role, at 8 p.m. Saturday, May 26, at Webster University’s Loretto-Hilton Center (130 Edgar Road; www.opera-stl. org). The show is performed six more times in repertory through June 24. Tickets are $25 to $185.
Sausage Party It’s no secret that St. Louis is home to many, many people of German descent. And yet St. Louis’ Germans have been unusually quiet of late. Soulard’s Oktoberfest has recalibrated itself as a smaller, more family-friendly event, Strassenfest has seemingly fallen off the calendar, and while various craft breweries have picked up the slack, it’s not like the old days, when A-B’s German workers paraded through the streets on Labor Day with beer steins in hand and volkslieder in their hearts. And then from out of nowhere comes Sausage Fest, courtesy of the rejuvenated and proudly German Das Bevo (4749 Gravois Avenue; www.dasbevo.com). This celebration of ground spiced meat
WEEK WEEK OF OF MAY MAY 24-30 24-30
Schlafly’s Art Outside brings all the best local art to Maplewood. | SPENCER PERNIKOFF Das DasBevo’s Bevo’sSausage SausageFest Festisislooking lookingfor formeat meatlovers loverswho whocan canhold holdtheir theirbeer. beer.||JUSTIN JUSTINFOIZEY FOIZEY forced into casings is just what St. Louis needs on the long Memorial Day weekend. Surprisingly for something so German, the whole idea started with a joke. “[St. Louis Post-Dispatch restaurant critic] Ian Froeb did a review a while back and he said we were a ‘sausage fest,’” laughs Bridgette Sesti Fyvie, Das Bevo’s marketing and event planning maven. “We laughed about it, but then we started talking about actually doing a sausage fest. It really is the main thing on our menu. We’re big fans of G&W Sausage, and this is a chance to show them off.” Indeed, for St. Louisans in the know, G&W is a veritable cathedral of hand-held meats. From the humble bratwurst to the spicy chorizo, from the rarely seen Bavarian-style Landjager beef sticks (cured long and thin sausages that are essentially the Ur-form of Slim Jims) to the shamefully underappreciated Weisswurst (a white and mild sausage traditionally purchased first thing in the morning and eaten with a nice weissbier), G&W maintains a heavenly stable of sausage for all your needs or desires. For Sausage Fest, Das Bevo has prepared a menu that ranges from traditional favorites to the more
outre reaches. “The Beet on the Brat” is a bratwurst with red beet relish and a Chicago-style garnish of celery salt, pickle, sport peppers and tomato, while “Carolina on my Mind” is a weisswurst with chili, creamy coleslaw and mustard. The “Firestarter” begins with a jalepeño-cheddar bratwurst and then piles on pickle chiles and habanero aioli, while the “Hard Knack Life” is a porky knockwurst with pickled chiles and burnt onion barbecue sauce. In addition to Sausage Fest, which takes place 11 a.m. to midnight Saturday, May 26, Das Bevo has lined up an absolutely packed schedule for the rest of the weekend as well. Folk artist Tom Casey will display his intricately hand-crafted models of fire trucks, ships and even a Ferris wheel at 6 p.m. Friday, May 25, while ropin’ and yodelin’ Cowboy Randy Erwin will entertain everybody at 3 p.m. on Sunday, May 27. On Monday, May 28, from 10 a.m. to 1 a.m. all veterans and first responders can enjoy free breakfast. But don’t expect Das Bevo to go quiet after Memorial Day; Fyvie says multiple plans are in the works. “Pat and Carol [Schuchard], the new owners, everything we shoot at them they say ‘yes,’” Fyvie enthuses. “In July we’re go-
ing to do a Sound of Music singa-long, and we’re talking about turning the lower level into a kind of speakeasy. Once the biergarten closes in October, we’re thinking about ways to keep it going, do a sort of cabaret/Das Bevo Underground thing,” she says. All in all, it’s a great time to be German-American in St. Louis, or to just eat and drink like one.
SUNDAY 05/27 St. Louis Greek Fest The Greeks know how to party — why do you think fraternity houses are part of the Greek system? The St. Louis Greek Fest at Assumption Greek Orthodox Church (1755 Des Peres Road, Town & Country; www.stlouisgreekfest.com) is one of the largest parties of the year, with Olympian portions of food and drink served up all day long. Souvlaki, dolmathes, tiropita and a selection of delightful pastries are available, as is domestic and Greek beer, plus Ouzo and Metaxa. The Kyklos-Hellenic Dance Group performs multiple times in the indoor Hellenic Center throughout the festival, and outside there will be music, a Greek market and
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tours of the church’s Byzantinestyle murals. The St. Louis Greek Fest takes place from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday through Sunday and 11 a.m to 8 p.m. Monday (May 25 to 28) at Assumption Greek Orthodox Church (1755 Des Peres Road, Town & Country; www.stlouisgreekfest. com). Admission is free.
TUESDAY 05/29 The Book of Mormon Lin-Manuel Miranda’s Hamilton is the show that captured the attention — and ticket money — this year, but it’s not the only big-name show coming to town. Trey Parker and Matt Stone’s raucous musical The Book of Mormon returns for a brief run this Tuesday through Sunday (May 29 to June 3) at the Fox Theatre (527 North Grand Boulevard; www.fabulousfox. com). The story of two Mormon missionaries in Uganda won multiple Tony awards for its crass ’n’ catchy songs and its skewering of organized religion. Despite all this, The Book of Mormon ends up coming down on the side of those who believe, giving it a sweetness that shines through the filth. Tickets are $39 to $150. n
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A Z A L P T R WESTPO
R E M SUM S T N E EV Parties on the Plaza
Third Thursday of the Month June-Oct|4-8 PM Vintage Bliss Market
June 23 10-6 PM & june 24 10-3 PM Summer Fitness Series
every tuesday june-sept|6:30-7:30 pm Movie Nights by the Lake
second friday of the month june-sept|sundown
intersection of i-270 and page avenue|st. louis, mo westportstl.com 42
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FILM
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Moll (Jessie Buckley) falls for possible ladykiller Pascal (Johnny Flynn). | KERRY BROWN, COURTESY OF 30WEST & ROADSIDE ATTRACTIONS
[REVIEW]
Monster Island Michael Pearce ushers viewers into the unsteady world of a woman who may love a killer Written by
ROBERT HUNT Beast Written and directed by Michael Pearce. Starring Jessie Buckley, Johnny Flynn and Geraldine James. Opens Friday, May 25, at the Landmark Tivoli Theatre.
A
lthough “surreal” is all too often deployed as a lazy synonym for “weird” or “unusual,” the term was actually coined to mean super-real, a heightened sense of reality in which the physical world coin-
cides with psychological phenomena like dreams. It’s that definition of surreality that comes to mind watching the new film Beast, a dark and disturbing story that never quite settles on becoming a romance, a mystery or a horror film but skillfully flirts with each genre. Beast is set on Jersey, the small British island of beach fronts and daunting cliffs where tourism and rural life are intertwined. The film begins with a routine montage of scenes of peaceful life on Jersey, including our first view of Moll (Jessie Buckley), a young woman who sings in the church choir and works as a tour guide, a job that appears to be mostly a brief escape from the demands of her overbearing family. Yet within minutes, the film hits the first of many unsettling notes, as Moll, celebrating her birthday with family and friends, turns a sudden fit of temper into a scene of self-mutilation. It’s clear that beneath her peaceful demeanor Moll has a great deal of rage. Shortly thereafter, Moll falls for Pascal Renouf (Johnny Flynn), an alluring, rifle-toting young man.
(Moll is fighting off the unwanted advances of a young man; Pascal shows up firing a warning shot. How’s that for meeting cute?) The film flirts with a conventional story of love with a bad boy, but with an uncomfortable twist: Pascal is rough-edged and wild, Moll’s family hates him … and a lot of people seem to think he’s the serial killer who’s been murdering young women all over the island. Beast is both a belated comingof-age story and a psychological drama about a broken, restless young woman whose emotional vagaries are matched by the sudden turns and jolts of the screenplay. Writer/director Michael Pearce never quite settles on what kind of film it’s supposed to be, but it’s an intentional unsettlement, as he deliberately keeps the viewer on edge and the characters and their motivations a little out of focus. Frequent use of an unsteady handheld camera adds to the tension, giving the viewer a sense of voyeurism that complements Moll’s own shakiness. There are moments of almost casual bru-
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tality, but Pearce isn’t indulging in the callous, audience-hating cruelty of the currently fashionable New Brutality; he wants us to share Moll’s discomfort, her sense of her safe, familiar life suddenly going out of balance. The film is — perhaps unavoidably — uneven at times, but remains held together throughout by Jessie Buckley’s courageously emotional performance as Moll. The plot thread about the police throwing suspicion on Pascal seems to come out of nowhere, and a significant bit of backstory about Moll’s childhood seems a bit incomplete, but even these loose elements become crucial to the story by the time it reaches its bitter, unexpected conclusion. During the final 30 minutes, I was trying to get the film to conform to a traditional mystery structure and making guesses about the outcome, but Beast stubbornly and inventively refused to play along. Pearce, making his feature debut, has created a view of life that is unstable and slightly out of balance, letting the viewer reel along with it. n
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CAFE
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At Smoki O’s, you can get a pork steak dinner, served here with “Minnie’s Potato Salad” and barbecue spaghetti, just like Minnie Muriel Hall Walker used to make. | MABEL SUEN
[ROUNDUP]
Pig Out Nothing says summer in St. Louis like pork steak. These eight great versions compete with even the best backyard barbecues Written by
CHERYL BAEHR
A
“Terramizzou” concrete from Ted Drewes. Brats cooked over the campfire after a day of floating down the Huzzah. Nine-dollar Bud Lights and a kraut-covered dog enjoyed from Busch Stadium’s upper deck. Summer in St. Louis has a smor-
gasbord of signature tastes, but the pork steak still reigns as king. For the uninitiated — in other words, transplants, because if you’ve grown up in the Lou you have Maull’s coursing through your veins — the pork steak is a slab of meat cut from the shoulder of the pig, also known as a blade steak. Traditionally slow-cooked and simmered in a tangy sauce of tomato and vinegar to break down its tough flesh, the pork steak is the staple of sweltering cookouts, shorthand for what is meant by “St. Louis-style barbecue.” It’s not just anecdotal; the National Pork Board says the St. Louis area purchased a staggering 4.35 million pounds of pork steak last year. That’s more than three times the national average. Of course, pork steaks are best enjoyed in their natural habitat, namely someone’s backyard, over a game of “Hoosier golf” with Van Halen’s “Panama” playing in the
background. However, if you’re not fortunate enough to get invited to such a spectacle, you’re still in luck. This saucy slab of pork can also be found in local restaurants ranging from soul-food staples to the new crop of smokehouses that embody the spirit of St. Louis Barbecue 2.0. We’ve mapped out a few places that will satisfy your craving for this most St. Louis of dishes, a list that is admittedly not comprehensive and in no particular order — because really, the best pork steaks in town are probably being cooked right now by someone’s jorts-clad, Busch-swilling uncle on the deep south side. But when you have to get your fix, these should do you just fine.
back decades, to Minnie Muriel Hall Walker, a backyard grill-master who started learning how to smoke meat when she was just a schoolgirl. After she passed away, her sons Otis B. Walker Jr. and
Smoki O’s 1545 North Broadway, 314-621-8180 Smoki O’s may be just over twenty years old, but its roots date
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Bruce A. Walker Sr. opened Smoki O’s to keep her legacy alive, and boy have they succeeded. Together with Otis’ wife Earline, they have created a humble yet powerful homage to the soul-food-style barbecue their mother prepared. Of course a pork steak is part of that repertoire. Thick, saucy and served in an aluminum-foil-lined Styrofoam takeout container, this is original, St. Louis-style barbecue, humbly served out of a white brick building on North Broadway. It goes without saying that you’ll want to pair that steak with some barbecue spaghetti, mac and cheese and, if you are feeling extra decadent, an order of the restaurant’s signature snoots — it wouldn’t be a Smoki O’s visit without them. Phil’s Bar-B-Q 9205 Gravois Road, 314-638-1313 Some 60 years ago, Phil Polizzi was a fruit salesman, operating a watermelon stand on St. Louis’ north side. When he added grilled meat to his repertoire, his business took off, so he decided to devote himself exclusively to the craft and opened Phil’s Bar-B-Q in a small shack off Gravois Road. Now his son Pete owns the place, but that’s one of the few changes that have occurred at Phil’s over the years. The restaurant is still known for the homestyle comfort fare pioneered by Dad back in the day, including a pork steak that is both basted in sauce while cooking and then smothered once it’s off the grill for good measure. This is not the smoked meat of a backyard cookout. Instead, Phil’s cooks its pork steak over an open flame inside the restaurant, a method that allows the unadulterated flavor of sweet pork and zesty sauce to shine through. Enjoy it with a side of mostaccioli while perusing the local memorabilia that hangs on the wood-paneled walls, and bask in the flavor of the south side. Five Aces Bar-B-Q 4000 Shaw Boulevard, 314-771-4001 Antonio Ellis knew he was taking over a legend when he opened Five Aces Bar-B-Q in what used to be Mama Josephine’s. That predecessor had been a Shaw neighborhood favorite, known for the Southern-style home cooking served up by the beloved Mary Samuelson. However, Ellis has a few tricks of his own up his sleeve, namely the kind of classic “parking lot” barbecue you see pop up around the city this time of year. That’s how the Navy veteran got
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his start, but as he got better at his craft, he knew he needed a space of his own to showcase his wares. Enter the building at 4000 Shaw, which he’s turned into a bona fide smokehouse with ribs, brisket and, of course, a pork steak that is the embodiment of the form. Ellis doesn’t use salt in the rub that coats the meat. Instead, it’s a secret blend of spices that spike the pork with Creole and jerk flavors like thyme, chiles, cinnamon garlic and clove. The sticky, molasses-like glaze coats the meat and caramelizes, complementing the bitter, char-grilled flavor. It may no longer be Mama’s, but it surely makes her proud.
essential taste of a summertime cookout, minus the backyard in locale but not in taste. Sho-Me BBQ 300 St. Ferdinand Street, Florissant; 314-395-6400 If Florissant’s Valley of Flowers festival is the city’s unofficial kickoff to summer, then Sho-Me BBQ should be the master of ceremonies. Located in a former produce stand, this carryout smokehouse tastes like a north-county picnic with rib tips, potato salad and juicy pork steaks that are slathered in thick, sticky glaze. Some of that delectable sauce will surely come off in the Styrofoam carryout container, but don’t worry;
The pork steak at BEAST Craft BBQ is big enough to pass for a Delmonico ribeye. | MABEL SUEN
Nubby’s 11133 Lindbergh Business Court, 314-200-9123 If a sports mall in deep south county isn’t what comes to mind when you hear the word barbecue, then you haven’t been to Nubby’s. Amidst the inline hockey and baseball camps, pitmaster Matt Hines is turning out some serious smoked meat in one of the area’s more unlikely locations. A landscaper by trade, the selftaught Hines fell in love with barbecuing as a hobby, then decided to go pro earlier this year with his first smokehouse. He calls his style “backyard barbecue,” exemplified by a beast of a pork steak that weighs in at a whopping oneand-a-half pounds. Fork tender and coated in mouthwatering housemade glaze, it’s the quint-
MAY 23 - 29, 2018
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just sop it up with the provided bread or some yams. It would be a pity to waste even one drop of this taste of Old Town. Paul’s Market 1020 North Elizabeth Avenue, Ferguson; 314-524-3652 “The Biggest Little Steak Store in St. Louis,” Paul’s Market is less a grocery store than an institution: a still-thriving piece of a bygone, pre-big-box era when every neighborhood had its own corner grocer and the butcher knew how you wanted your meat cut without having to ask. For almost six decades, this beloved market has been a mainstay of the Ferguson food community, where the spirit of that time lives on with every slab of ribs or strip roast that gets pulled out of its case. It’s one of
the best meat counters around, but what sets Paul’s apart is its prepared-foods business, especially the smoked meats cooked in its Ole Hickory smoker out back. You won’t always find Paul’s stocked with pork steaks — they are one of the many rotating specialties — but when you do, grab one for every member of the family. Soaked in a thin layer of tomato-forward barbecue sauce, one taste will prove why this place has such staying power. Gamlin Whiskey House 236 North Euclid Avenue, 314-875-9500 Though Gamlin Whiskey House may be a more upscale setting than your cousin’s backyard, its “Joe’s Backyard Pork Steak” channels that spirit flawlessly. A monster of a cut, this 24-ounce hunk of meat dazzles with a barbecue glaze that has a faint whisper of vanilla. A dollop of beer-braised onion butter melts over the top, mixing with the sauce to form a heavenly concoction that soaks into the accompanying baconmashed potatoes. You’ll wash it down with Old Grand-Dad rather than a can of High Life, but otherwise, you could close your eyes and think you were outside on someone’s patio — albeit a very nice one. BEAST Craft BBQ 20 South Belt West, Belleville, Illinois; 618-257-9000 If you had to crown a king of pork steaks, there would be no debate: BEAST Craft BBQ reigns supreme. Pitmaster David Sandusky may be located some twenty miles across the river from the city’s center (for now — his second BEAST outpost is opening in the Grove in the coming months), but that doesn’t stop him from dominating the pork-steak game. Unlike the traditional versions, BEAST’s is fall-apart succulent, more like a composite of pulled pork than a steak, and cut so thick that, at first glance, you’ll think you have been mistakenly served a Delmonico ribeye. This big, bold beauty also deviates from the norm because it is sauceless — unless you count the slick of fat and rub that drips into every nook and cranny, and why wouldn’t you? Part of the new guard of world-class pitmasters now leading the St. Louis barbecue movement, Sandusky is putting out some of the best barbecue in the region, if not the country. That prowess is so powerful, it means your most St. Louis summer ever just might have to begin in Belleville. n
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SHORT ORDERS
[SIDE DISH]
Nippon Tei Chef Is Back in Mom’s Kitchen Written by
CHERYL BAEHR
L
ooking back on his childhood, there was no way Nick Bognar was going to be anything but a restaurant person. He watched from an early age as his mom founded the beloved west county Japanese restaurant Nippon Tei (14025 Manchester Road, Ballwin; 636-386-8999), an experience that had a profound impact on the direction his life would take. However, as Bognar explains, his culinary roots go much deeper than being a self-described “restaurant kid” — all the way back to Thailand. “My grandma was trained in the royal palace in Thailand back in the day when female noblewomen went to boarding school in the palace,” says Bognar. “She was the last generation who were trained there in housework like sewing and mending clothing, tending to the house and cooking. When she was there she clung to cooking and as a result is a really great cook.” As the son of busy working parents, Bognar spent a lot of his childhood with his grandmother and has deeply rooted memories of spending time in the kitchen while she ground curry paste with a mortar and pestle. As she cooked, she would give him bites to eat, helping him develop an appreciation for flavor, even at a young age. It was his uncle, though, who was the first in the family to start cooking professionally, opening a Thai restaurant in Cape Girardeau and another on Manchester Road long before the cuisine was popular in the Midwest. His success not only instilled in his family a sense of pride in the food of their ances-
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Nick Bognar left St. Louis to find himself, but after finding sushi success in Austin and Cincinnati, he’s come home. | MONICA MILEUR
tral homeland but allowed them to see it as a viable business. Bognar’s mother worked in the industry herself, first as a food and beverage director at the Butler Hill Holiday Inn, then as a consultant who helped other Thai families open their own restaurants. She finally decided that she needed to do her own thing. Her vision resulted in Nippon Tei, which helped fashion her son’s career long before he realized what was happening. “I always helped out in the restaurant, rolling egg rolls or crab Rangoon and helping out in the kitchen,” Bognar recalls. “I started liking being at the restaurant a lot and stopped liking being at school. I liked the freedom and the fact that we would do all this work and people would come and eat. I just gravitated to the industry and stopped paying attention in school.” But when Bognar was given the opportunity in his junior year to take culinary classes at a local tech school, his passion for cook-
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ing turned him into a star student. He absorbed all he could and sought out additional education through articles and books. Taken under the wing by one of his instructors, Bognar accompanied him on regular catering gigs. And so after graduation, there was no question: He enrolled in the culinary arts program at St. Louis Community College-Forest Park. Around that time, Bognar was interested in sushi and honed his craft at both Nippon Tei and Wasabi Sushi Bar. When his mom opened a second concept, Tei Too, Bognar helped manage it before deciding that he needed some time away from the family business and St. Louis to find himself. That decision led him to Austin, Texas, where he worked at the esteemed restaurant Uchiko. The experience opened his eyes to both how much he did not know and how much he wanted to learn. “Coming from working for so long at my mom’s restaurant, I thought I would have one up on everyone at Uchiko,” says Bognar.
“I didn’t. It opened up a whole new world to me about how to behave as a real professional, how to be efficient and work as part of a large team, and how to always strive to do better. I learned so much there.” After a year at Uchiko, Bognar moved to Cincinnati to join his girlfriend. There, he helped to open another sushi concept, his first opportunity to completely design a sushi program. But though the restaurant did well, Bognar could not resist the pull to come home, especially when his mom said she wanted to change things up at Nippon Tei after an eighteen-year run. She knew her son was just the person to help. About ten months ago, Bognar moved back to St. Louis, where he finds himself again working in the family business. However, times have changed. Now not just someone who helps out, he has ownership of Nippon Tei’s concept and has transitioned the restaurant into the area’s premier
spot for traditional sushi. He admits that the changes have been difficult to process for some of the restaurant’s longtime guests, but says that once they give his new way of doing things a shot, they are dazzled. And just as importantly, he is too. “A friend who used to eat here when he was younger came in and asked what it felt like to be back in the same place where I started,” Bognar says. “But I don’t feel like I am working at the same place. I’m not sure I could be excited to be doing this if I felt like it was the same. The journey to get here has been long and arduous, but I am in a good place.” Bognar took a break from the kitchen to share his thoughts on the St. Louis food-and-beverage community, his love of history and corn dogs, and why making rice is the most important part of his day. What is one thing people don’t know about you that you wish they did? Even though I am trained in Japanese food, I am half Thai. Most of my Thai family are great cooks, especially my grandmother. Her recipes are incredible and they have influenced a lot of my own food. What daily ritual is non-negotiable for you? Making rice. Rice is so essential to the restaurant — it is the basis for the entire menu. I really like coming into the restaurant before anyone else has gotten there and taking a few minutes to complete this ritual. If you could have any superpower, what would it be? I would like to teleport so that I could travel anywhere and eat anything at any time. Also, bank vaults. What is the most positive thing in food, wine or cocktails that you’ve noticed in St. Louis over the past year? Since moving back to St. Louis, I’ve noticed that the food community has really come together. I have made an effort to check out the work other chefs are doing and I know a lot of them have done the same for me. Their support and honest critiques have been really helpful in moving my work forward. What is something missing in the local food, wine or cocktail scene
that you’d like to see? I would really like to see more chef-driven Asian restaurants. I want to see Asian chefs cook the food they really love rather than conforming to outdated ideas of what Asian food should be. Who is your St. Louis food crush? Matt McGuire from Louie. The first time I met him, I was eating at his restaurant. The place was incredibly busy, but he took the time to say hello and just kept dropping these amazing aged wines and food at my table. I think he is a sage in the restaurant industry, a master of all aspects of operation. Who’s the one person to watch right now in the St. Louis dining scene? Matt Wynn of Good Fortune. I started following him a few years ago before he moved to New York and have kept up with him over the years. I finally got the chance to meet him recently and he is a super cool dude. I’m excited for people like him who left St. Louis to come back and share their knowledge and food with us. Which ingredient is most representative of your personality? Skin-on crispy pork belly. Crispy exterior, but tender and fatty on the inside. If you weren’t working in the restaurant business, what would you be doing? I would probably be teaching history. I am a total history dork, especially when it comes to ancient battles. Name an ingredient never allowed in your restaurant. Clove. I know it can be used in small doses properly, but I’ll always choose star anise. What is your after-work hangout? My house. I just like to chill. If I can get off early enough I love grabbing some late-night bites at Vista Ramen. They make such tasty food there. The fish caramel ribs are my favorite, and everyone who works there is super cool! What’s your food or beverage guilty pleasure? Two words: corn dogs. I talk about my love for corn dogs so much that I tend to receive them as gifts. What would be your last meal on earth? I would eat at Sushi Saito in Tokyo and enjoy amazing omakase. Arguably the best in the world. n
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[SECOND LOOK]
Boathouse Is Back (and It’s Better Than Ever) Written by
CHERYL BAEHR
I The Boathouse now offers two outdoor bars, plus a brand-new menu. | CHERYL BAEHR
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f you had planned on taking your mother to the Boathouse at Forest Park (6101 Government Drive, 314-3673423) earlier this month, you were not alone. Even well into the afternoon, the restaurant was running a four-hour wait. Four hours. “Who does that?” owner Mike Johnson laughs. “If it were me, I would put my name on the list, go out to lunch somewhere else and then come back for dinner when my table is ready. It’s insane.” Though Mother’s Day is a notoriously busy day in the restau-
rant business, the volume was not an anomaly at the revamped Boathouse. Since opening under the control of Sugarfire Events on April 25, the restaurant has seen business at a level that even a seasoned restaurant veteran like Johnson finds shocking. By 10:45 on any given morning, guests are already lined up, and the madness doesn’t stop until it closes at 10 p.m. The popularity is warranted. Though the Boathouse in its current form has been in operation for nearly two decades, its foodservice was never as inspiring as the environs, which overlook Post-Dispatch Lake in the heart of Forest Park. When Johnson and his team won the contract to take over the space late last year, they were determined to change that. And change it they did. Headed by executive chef Jack MacMurray III, the kitchen has not only seen a physical renovation, but has completely overhauled the menu, too. Eclectic and comprehensive, Johnson explains that the food offerings are designed to appeal to a wide range of patrons. Look for everything from soups and sandwiches to a bacon-wrapped pork-tenderloin entree and a Continued on pg 51
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The roasted portabella reuben is among the food offerings from Sugarfire Events. | CHERYL BAEHR
BOATHOUSE
Continued from pg 50
smoked salmon platter. There are new grab-and-go entrees and two brand-new bars for those who prefer their meals in liquid form. Johnson and MacMurray took a brief break from the chaos to break down a few other fun facts that you need to know about the Boathouse at Forest Park. But really, the most important thing you need to know is to allow plenty of time, and that’s not just because you have to wait for a table: Once you are seated, you’ll never want to leave. 1. The Boathouse at Forest Park is not Sugarfire Smokehouse Though Johnson’s name is synonymous with his Sugarfire brand, do not expect the Boathouse to be a smokehouse. The restaurant is an entirely different concept with an eclectic menu of appetizers, salads, sandwiches and entrees. 2. You can get ribs, but they are different from what you’d expect — and incredible The Boathouse may not be Sugarfire, but it wouldn’t be a Mike Johnson concept without killer ribs. He and chef McMurray developed Szechuan-style, sticky pork spare ribs for the restaurant that are as big in flavor as they are size. Are they sure this isn’t a barbecue restaurant? 3. If you get the shrimp, you will be eating the chef’s signature recipe Chef McMurray is proud of his almond-encrusted and flash-fried
shrimp, for good reason. Crisp and golden on the outside, tender on the inside, this delectable appetizer has been his signature dish since he developed it early on in his career while working in Colorado. 4. The Boathouse now has two proper outdoor bars Does anything go better with a lakeside patio than a cocktail? Johnson says no; that’s why he has flanked both sides of the Boathouse property with well-staffed outdoor bars complete with a good beer selection and several premixed cocktail options, including whiskey lemonade and margaritas. 5. You can now rent canoes, kayaks and standup paddle boards from the Boathouse’s deck Though paddleboats have always been available, the newly retooled Boathouse now offers canoe, kayak and standup paddleboard rentals in partnership with Big Muddy Adventures. The newly minted “Boathouse Paddle Co.” is even talking of hosting paddleboard yoga and evening paddles. Just make sure you hit the bar after your excursion. 6. Watch out for the birds Of course wildlife is a part of any outdoor dining experience, and the ducks and birds around the Boathouse are no exception. Be forewarned that if you sit on the outdoor patio, you are likely to have an uninvited guest eyeing your plate. As one bartender put it, the ducks and birds here seem particularly fearless. Perhaps they’ve heard how good the new food is too. n
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[BAR NEWS]
Brennan’s Is MidtownBound Written by
SARAH FENSKE
E
verybody’s favorite Central West End bar is plotting an eastern expansion. Brennan’s (4659 Maryland Avenue, 314-361-9444) confirmed last week that it will be opening a second location in Midtown, Brennan’s Work & Leisure (3015 Locust Street). But while the original Brennan’s is known first and foremost as a bar, even as its offerings have grown to include everything from co-working to a cigar club, the new location has big ambitions from the start. Brennan’s Work & Leisure will initially include a cafe largely focused on grab-and-go offerings, as well as offices for lease and a space for co-working and events. Plans are to later add a bar serving beer, wine and cocktails, as well as small plates and some of Brennan’s signature offerings. The office space will comprise the majority of the 6,000-squarefoot first floor, as well as a 1,000-square-foot mezzanine, says owner Kevin Brennan. The front-facing portion, which takes up roughly 1,500 square feet, is the area that will be open to the public. It’s situated right in the middle of Midtown Alley, an up-and-coming district that’s become a hub for design and marketing businesses. “We believe Locust Street in Midtown looks a lot like Maryland
at e r G
Brennan’s Work & Leisure will expand on the co-working offerings at the BHIVE, along with a cafe and (later) a bar. | DAVID RYGIOL @RYEJOL
and McPherson Avenue did when we moved into the Central West End, fifteen years ago,” Zach Gzehoviak, Brennan’s marketing and events manager, explains. Three years ago, Brennan’s opened the BHIVE, a co-working space that hosts six small businesses and a handful of individuals, as well as corporate members who have access to the conference room and other amenities. They’ve had to turn away many more people who are interested, Brennan says, and thinking about that demand ultimately led them to Midtown. Now members of the BHIVE will be able to avail themselves of both locations, with room for many others seeking of-
s! e c i Pr
fice space as well, he says. Brennan jokes that the building, a former automobile showroom and warehouse, is “the ugliest one on the block,” but notes that upcoming renovations will remove its facade. He hopes to have the new space open this fall. Brennan notes that the Central West End location began as a store offering wine, beer, liquor and cigars. “I didn’t really want to open a bar,” he says. “It just happened over time.” He was 33 then; he’s 48 now, and his interests have diverged from nightlife. Now he wants to see what kind of interesting events the new space can host for its members — and is intrigued by the possibilities of its
Midtown Alley surroundings. “The West End’s great, but it’s getting so crazy with rent and so much going on,” he says. “When it costs you $10 to park, it’s difficult to just stop in and have a beer. We’re excited about Midtown being an up-and-coming area. In five or so years, it’ll get there. There are really cool spaces there, but it can also be kind of quiet. It’s mostly a daytime place at this point. We want to be that place for that neighborhood down the road.” The company is not yet accepting applications for those interested in co-working or office space, but anyone who wants to get on its mailing list is encouraged to email info@bhive.space. n
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John Perkins will open Little Bird, a daytime spot in Juniper’s current home. | JENNIFER SILVERBERG
[FOOD NEWS]
Juniper Gets a Little Sis Written by
SARAH FENSKE
A
new Southern-inflected breakfast and lunch eatery, Little Bird, will open in the space that currently holds Juniper, chef John Perkins announced last week. Perkins had previously announced that his four-year-old restaurant Juniper (360 N. Boyle Avenue) will be moving to 4101 Laclede. That move frees up its charming, brick-walled home on Boyle for a different restaurant — what Perkins says will be Juniper’s “little sister.” “Little Bird was thought up years ago, but now is finally coming to fruition as the natural breakfast/ brunch complement to Juniper’s lunch and dinner,” Perkins said in a press release. “Our guests have often asked, ‘When are you going to do brunch, when are you going to do breakfast,’ and it’s a perfectly reasonable question as both are often the most immediate expression of Southern food that folks
are familiar with. I believe Little Bird will be a welcome addition not only to our brand and the guests familiar with it, but also the dining scene in St. Louis.” Glenister Wells, who recently came on as top chef at Juniper, will also lead the kitchen at Little Bird, which will be open Tuesday through Sunday from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Little Bird will offer “approachable, Southern-inspired breakfast,” following a trend of St. Louis restaurants giving the day’s first meal the seriousness they used to reserve for the last. “While Perkins plans to revamp the interior with a lighter color pallet and expand upon the current birdcage lights featured in the front windows, the space will remain a destination for all to gather for Southern eats and irreverent cocktails,” the press release promises. The restaurant hopes to be open by year-end. Juniper’s move is currently set for “mid-2018,” according to its press materials. To get a sneak peek at the Little Bird game plan, plan to visit Juniper for a pop up on Sunday, May 27. A sample menu shows “grits and grillades,” Angel biscuit cinnamon rolls, and frittata with collards and country ham. Reservations can be made via Reserve, with seating from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. n
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CULTURE [HOMESPUN]
Flying Blind Mikey Wehling’s latest album was created with antique electronics from the school where he teaches the blind Written by
CHRISTIAN SCHAEFFER
F
or more than half his life, Mikey Wehling has been both a student and a teacher of the guitar. His musical gifts are no secret to those who grooved to his work in the jam/fusion sextet Messy Jiverson, or who bathed in the meditative smoothness of his own projects such as the Reverbs or Vandeventer. But for the 37-year-old Wehling, the past year has presented him with a new teaching experience. Once a week he teaches a few students at the Missouri School for the Blind, and he quickly found that the practice of relying on visual cues of chord shape and strumming patterns would have to be adapted for his new pupils. “Going into it, I sort of sold myself on that fact that I could do it — and sold them on it, too — but I previously had no experience in that field,”he says from the living room of the south-city home he shares with his dog Scout. Wehling calls his weekly gig a “wonderful experience,” one that is nourishing on both a musical and good-vibes level. “It’s the kind of gig that you have where you leave feeling better than when you got there, and those are really hard to come by,” he says. Much like their sighted counterparts, Wehling’s students at MSB wanted to learn some of the guitar-hero basics — he taught them drop-D tuning, which makes playing Nirvana’s “In Bloom” a breeze. But there was variety among his five students, including a country music fan who wanted to learn George Jones songs. Wehling took him deeper to the source and taught him some licks by Doc Watson, the blind flat-picker and paragon of the form.
Wehling is winding down his first year at MSB on a high note — “everybody left wanting to come back next year, which is the least you can expect,” he says with a laugh. But his time at the school yielded more than engaged students. A traipse through the music department’s gear locker yielded some 1970s-era analog treasures that had long been moth-balled: among them a Univox SR-55 drum machine, the kind with no programming capabilities but a bevy of lo-fi patterns from Samba to Fox Trot, and an Ace Tone combo organ, a scaled-down keyboard resplendent in red Naugahyde. Those instruments, a bundle of transistors and ancient technology by modern standards, provided the inspiration for Wehling’s latest release, the all-instrumental Antique Electronique. The album is made up of fifteen tracks, none more than two minutes long and all of them based around the pre-set groove spat out by the Univox and embellished by organ. It’s a funky, dusty trip into a deep-shag carpeted hotel bar with Wehling, bearded and grinning, behind the console. What the album doesn’t feature much of is guitar — though some quick-wristed, Chic-esque licks enliven the track “Daryl Porter” (named after the late Cardinals catcher whose baseball card stands sentinel on the controls of Wehling’s parlor organ in his living room/studio space). For Wehling, the album was a way to stretch out without the use of his primary instrument and attempt to make something of value with an intentionally limited palette of analog gear. “Acquiring all the knowledge and technical skill felt so great and has been a great thing to strive for, but then sometimes all of that — especially the technical ability on an instrument — can lead to too many options, too many colors to paint with, too much to think about or over-think about,” he says of the guitar. “So when I moved to the keyboard, because I’m not a great keyboard player by any means, it forced me to have to use all of my abilities to create technically.” For Antique Electronique, he trimmed down five or six minutes of music into bite-sized chunks that emphasize the groove and melody, with little extraneous ma-
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Mikey Wehling takes a break from making music with his dog, Scout. | VIA THE ARTIST terial left in. “I wanted them to be long enough to be interesting but short enough to hold up upon repeated listens,” Wehling says. “I really wanted to do instrumental music again; I wanted to go back to that. I feel like the current environment we live in, it’s just a lot sometimes. I thought that some instrumental would be good for everyone.” Learning to cut out the noise has been a crucial journey for Wehling, who recently celebrated his 500th day of sobriety. He calls his sobriety the “best thing that’s ever happened to me — it saved my life. Not to be scary or overdramatic, but I was in a real bad spot.” As someone with a tendency toward compulsion, he quickly found other prospects to occupy his time –organ-jams, for one, and a burgeoning collection of vintage Star Wars toys he bought after selling off his booze collection. And his trusty guitar is never far from his side, despite his brief dalliances on the black-and-whites.
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“I feel like the current environment we live in, it’s just a lot sometimes. I thought that some instrumental would be good for everyone.” “I feel like being sober and back into it, I’m practicing and playing guitar at a newfound level. I am feeling better on the instrument than ever,” Wehling says. “Maybe I’m not quite as fast as I used to be — I try not to think about that — but I just think you get wiser with every experience.” n
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WEST COUNTY 1 Blk. East of Hwy. 141 14282 MANCHESTER RD. 636-227-8062
SOUTH COUNTY 1 Block East of I-55 off Lindbergh 3939 Union Road 845-2584
www.tuckersplacestl.com
[OUT AND ABOUT]
For Bruiser Queen, the Show Went On Written by
DANIEL HILL
I
t’s a rainy Friday night in the Loop, and a crowd has gathered at Blueberry Hill’s Duck Room for the release of local pop-punk band the Haddonfields’ new EP, When Cowboys Cry. But before that, at 9:30 p.m., garage-rock duo Bruiser Queen is playing a stripped-down set. Drummer Jason Potter eschews his usual place behind the drums, instead manning the keyboard and a tambourine. Guitarist/singer Morgan Nusbaum’s bright, soulful voice fills the hall as she belts out the band’s songs. Watching her, you’d have no idea Nusbaum was creamed by a car while attempting to navigate a crosswalk just two days before. “Everyone keeps asking me, ‘Why are you up here? You just got hit by a car!’” she says with a smile. “Well, this is what I do, so....” Considering the violence her body endured barely 48 hours before, no one could have faulted Nusbaum for canceling. On Wednesday, Nusbaum, who works at Steve’s Hot Dogs on the Hill, missed the 1:20 p.m. bus after her shift. Opting to eat lunch in Forest Park while waiting for the 2 p.m. bus, she approached a crossing she’s used many times before. “I was walking down Kingshighway and I was crossing at Magnolia there — it’s a quieter crosswalk than the one at Arsenal, so I usually take that one,” she tells RFT. “I just pushed the button and waited for the walk signal — it took forever — and I could tell that there was a lot of people waiting to turn left. “So it turns to ‘walk’ and I start gunning it, I start running,” she continues. “And next thing I know this blue car comes out of nowhere and just scoops me up. I hit the windshield, rolled over the car and landed flat on my back. Which is probably what fractured my ribs.” The car, which had been traveling west on Magnolia before turning south onto Kingshighway, stopped, and Morgan shouted to its driver for help. The woman promptly called 911. A group of bystanders were soon on hand, collecting Nusbaum’s belongings — sunglasses, cell phone and more — which had been scattered across the intersection. Nusbaum credits the fact that she wasn’t knocked clean out of her shoes to her Doc Martens, which were laced tight. A med student came and held her hand while she lay on the ground, waiting for help. Soon, paramedics loaded Nusbaum onto a stretcher and into an ambulance, headed to nearby Barnes-Jewish Hos-
Hospital selfie, the most dreaded of all selfies. | VIA MORGAN NUSBAUM
“Everyone keeps asking me, ‘Why are you up here? You just got hit by a car!’ Well, this is what I do, so...” pital. All told, she suffered three fractured ribs and a gash on her head that required stitches, in addition to enough bumps and scrapes to give new meaning to the “Bruiser Queen” moniker. “I’ve never been in an ambulance before, so that was really crazy,” she says. “I had to stay the night in the hospital, because with rib fractures people tend to not breathe as deeply, which can cause your lungs to collapse a little bit and cause pneumonia.” Nusbaum was released from the hospital a day later, around 3 p.m. After only one night of rest at home she was already scheduling practice and trying to work out whether she’d be able to play the show her band had on the books. Though it might seem crazy to some, she had sound logic behind her decision to go on with the show. “I’m supposed to be up walking around and doing things anyway, just because that’s the nature of it — you don’t wanna lay around too much because you’ll get real stiff,” she explains. “I just want to keep up with my body and make sure I’m walking around and doing things. “And what better place to do that than with all my friends, you know?” As the duo finishes an abbreviated five-song set, the crowd shouts cheers of encouragement, some with cell phones raised, recording the impressive showmust-go-onsmanship on display. And as Nusbaum thanks everyone for their support, it is clear that the singer is right where she wants to be. n
riverfronttimes.com
MAY 23 - 29, 2018
RIVERFRONT TIMES
59
60
OUT EVERY NIGHT [CRITIC’S PICK]
Andrew W.K. | ALBUM ART
Andrew W.K. 8 p.m. Thursday, May 24. Delmar Hall, 6133 Delmar Boulevard. $20 to $25. 314-726-6161.
return to form after a few scattershot
With You’re Not Alone, Andrew W.K.’s
is back: Are you ready to party?
fifth full-length record and his first in
The Gang’s All Here: This show, much
nearly ten years, rock & roll’s premier
like W.K.’s performance at Grove Fest
motivational speaker has proven that
last year, will be a full-band affair after
the party is not over just yet. Across
years of baffling one-man-band perfor-
seventeen tracks, including three spo-
mances. If that Grove Fest show was
ken word pieces (naturally), W.K. brings
any indication, this should be a high-
his infectious positivity to the fore once
energy set that will leave smiles on the
more, with song titles including “The
faces of all in attendance.
Power of Partying,” “Party Mindset” and
THURSDAY 24
Now Open
in The
Grove!
4i04 Manchester Ave
(3i4) 899-9404
ANDREW W.K.: 8 p.m., $20-$25. Delmar Hall, 6133 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314-726-6161. BRIAN CURRAN: 4 p.m., free. Hammerstone’s, 2028 S. 9th St., St. Louis, 314-773-5565. CEDRIC BURNSIDE: 8 p.m., $15. Old Rock House, 1200 S. 7th St., St. Louis, 314-588-0505. CHAOS CHAOS: 7 p.m., $12-$15. Fubar, 3108 Locust St, St. Louis, 314-289-9050. CHARLEY CROCKETT: 8 p.m., $15. Off Broadway, 3509 Lemp Ave., St. Louis, 314-498-6989. GHOST TOWN REMEDY: w/ Half Gallen and the Milk Jugs, Angelhead, Pirate Signal, Reaver 7 p.m., $5. Foam Coffee & Beer, 3359 Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314-772-2100. JEREMIAH JOHNSON BAND: 8 p.m., $5. Hammerstone’s, 2028 S. 9th St., St. Louis, 314-773-5565. MELVINS: 8 p.m., $20-$25. The Ready Room, 4195 Manchester Ave, St. Louis, 314-833-3929. NORMA JEAN: REDEEMER ANNIVERSARY TOUR: w/ ‘68, Harvester 6 p.m., $20. Fubar, 3108 Locust St, St. Louis, 314-289-9050. PREOCCUPATIONS: 8 p.m., $13-$15. The Firebird, 2706 Olive St., St. Louis, 314-535-0353. TORREY CASEY & SOUTHSIDE HUSTLE: 8 p.m., $5. BB’s Jazz, Blues & Soups, 700 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-436-5222. TWIDDLE: 6 p.m., $17-$20. Atomic Cowboy Pavilion, 4140 Manchester Avenue, St. Louis, 314-775-0775.
FRIDAY 25
AARON KAMM & THE ONE DROPS: w/ Monophonics, Crate2Crate 7 p.m., $15-$18. Atomic Cowboy Pavilion, 4140 Manchester Avenue, St. Louis, 314-775-0775.
60
RIVERFRONT TIMES
MAY 23 - 29, 2018
riverfronttimes.com
“The Party Never Dies.” It’s a bit of a releases, with critics and fans alike sitting up and taking notice. Andrew W.K.
—Daniel Hill CHARLES HILL JR.: w/ Brandon Scheel, Cara Louise Band, Bobby Stevens 9 p.m., $8. The Heavy Anchor, 5226 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314-352-5226. AN EVENING WITH GHOST: 9 p.m., $25.50-$55.50. Peabody Opera House, 1400 Market St, St. Louis, 314-499-7600. HOUNDS: 7 p.m., free. Saint Louis Art Museum, 1 Fine Arts Dr Forest Park, St. Louis, 314-7210072. HUSHGUSH: w/ Aiko Tsuchida, Grocer, JoAnn McNeil 9 p.m., $5. El Lenador, 3124 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314-771-2222. KASKADE: 9 p.m., $45-$150. Ameristar Casino, 1 Ameristar Blvd., St. Charles, 636-949-7777. LUCIOUS SPILLER: 7 p.m., $5. BB’s Jazz, Blues & Soups, 700 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-4365222. MADAME MAYHEM: 7 p.m., $12-$14. The Firebird, 2706 Olive St., St. Louis, 314-535-0353. MAMMOTH PIANO VIDEO PREMIERE: w/ DJ Moses 9:30 p.m., $5. Foam Coffee & Beer, 3359 Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314-772-2100. ROLAND JOHNSON & SOUL ENDEAVOR: 8 p.m., $3. Hammerstone’s, 2028 S. 9th St., St. Louis, 314-773-5565. SKEET RODGERS & INNER CITY BLUES BAND: 10 p.m., $5. BB’s Jazz, Blues & Soups, 700 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-436-5222. SOUTHERN CULTURE ON THE SKIDS: 8 p.m., $22-$25. Blueberry Hill - The Duck Room, 6504 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314-727-4444. WYE OAK: 8 p.m., $15-$18. The Ready Room, 4195 Manchester Ave, St. Louis, 314-833-3929. ZEPPARELLA: 8 p.m., $15. Off Broadway, 3509 Lemp Ave., St. Louis, 314-498-6989.
VOTED STL’S FAVORITE WINGS & FAVORITE APPETIZERS SATURDAY 26
AFROSEXYCOOL 2 YEAR ANNIVERSARY: 8 p.m., $7-$10. The Ready Room, 4195 Manchester Ave, St. Louis, 314-833-3929. BLACK PRIVILEGE TOUR: w/ Oren Major, DON40 8 p.m., $5. Foam Coffee & Beer, 3359 Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314-772-2100. COOPER-MOORE: w/ Joshua Abrams, Hamid Drake 8 p.m., $10-$20. Off Broadway, 3509 Lemp Ave., St. Louis, 314-498-6989. THE DISTINGUISHED GENTS WELCOME THE LADIES OF EXCELLENCE: 6 p.m., $30-$140. Grandel Theatre, 3610 Grandel Square, St. Louis, 314533-0367. EMMURE: 7 p.m., $18.50-$22. Delmar Hall, 6133 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314-726-6161. FISTER ALBUM RELEASE SHOW: w/ Daybringer, Shitstorm 8 p.m., $10-$12. The Sinkhole, 7423 South Broadway, St. Louis, 314-328-2309. IVAS JOHN BAND: 10 p.m., $5. BB’s Jazz, Blues & Soups, 700 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-4365222. NITE OWL: A TRIBUTE TO HIP-HOP: 9 p.m., $10. The Monocle, 4510 Manchester Ave, St. Louis, 314-935-7003. POISON, CHEAP TRICK: 7 p.m., TBA. Hollywood Casino Amphitheatre, I-70 & Earth City Expwy., Maryland Heights, 314-298-9944. PORTRAIT: THE MUSIC OF KANSAS: 7 p.m., $15. Atomic Cowboy Pavilion, 4140 Manchester Avenue, St. Louis, 314-775-0775. RADAR: w/ The Radio Buzzkills, The Kuhlies, Sunwyrm 8 p.m., $7-$10. Fubar, 3108 Locust St, St. Louis, 314-289-9050. THE RED JUMPSUIT APPARATUS: w/ Rivals 6 p.m., $16-$20. Fubar, 3108 Locust St, St. Louis, 314-289-9050. RICH MCDONOUGH & RHYTHM RENEGADES: 3 p.m., free. Hammerstone’s, 2028 S. 9th St., St. Louis, 314-773-5565. ROCKY & THE WRANGLERS: 4 p.m., $5. BB’s Jazz, Blues & Soups, 700 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314436-5222. SAUSAGE PARTY WITH THE WATERLOO GERMAN BAND: 7 p.m., free. Das Bevo Biergarten, 4749 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314-224-5521. STRAY BULLET: 9 p.m., free. Nightshift Bar & Grill, 3979 Mexico Road, St. Peters, 636-4418300. TOM HALL: 7 p.m., $5. BB’s Jazz, Blues & Soups, 700 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-436-5222. VANCE JOY: 7 p.m., $42.50-$52.50. The Fox Theatre, 527 N. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314-5341111. WITHIN THE GIANT’S REACH: w/ As Earth Shatters, Dr Dick Ramerez, Wrecklamation, Grays Divide 7 p.m., $8-$10. The Firebird, 2706 Olive St., St. Louis, 314-535-0353.
SUNDAY 27
AYO & TEO: 7 p.m., $28-$48. The Pageant, 6161 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314-726-6161. ERIK BROOKS: 8 p.m., free. Hammerstone’s, 2028 S. 9th St., St. Louis, 314-773-5565. JACK TATE VS COLLIN REAGAN: w/ Jason Thompson VS Brandon Dalton, Tony Esteem VS Ricky Rodriguez 8 p.m., $15-$20. Fubar, 3108 Locust St, St. Louis, 314-289-9050. LEFTOVER SALMON: w/ ClusterPluck 6 p.m., $25$30. Atomic Cowboy Pavilion, 4140 Manchester Avenue, St. Louis, 314-775-0775. LOVE JONES “THE BAND”: 8 p.m., $10. BB’s Jazz, Blues & Soups, 700 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314436-5222. RIVER CITY OPRY: 1 p.m., $5. Off Broadway, 3509 Lemp Ave., St. Louis, 314-498-6989. SUNDAY NIGHT LIVE: 8 p.m., $10. Fubar, 3108 Locust St, St. Louis, 314-289-9050. THE BLACK & WHITE BAND: 5 p.m., $10. BB’s Jazz, Blues & Soups, 700 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-436-5222. VOO DOO BLUES: 4 p.m., free. Hammerstone’s, 2028 S. 9th St., St. Louis, 314-773-5565. THE WILLIE AKINS JAZZ FESTIVAL: 3 p.m., $12$150. Grandel Theatre, 3610 Grandel Square,
[WEEKEND]
BEST BETS
Five sure-fire shows to close out the week
FRIDAY, MAY 25
JoAnn McNeil w/ Hushgush, Grocer, Aiko Tsuchida
9 p.m. El Leñador Bar & Grill, 3124 Cherokee Street. $5. 314-875-9955 What makes emerging artist JoAnn McNeil so distinct isn’t merely found through her warped visual work or her gentle exploration of sound. It takes both a discerning ear and eye — and possibly a sixth sense — to wholly indulge in McNeil’s art, which feels plucked from an spiritual portal that’s hiding in plain sight. This night surrounds the sonic sculptor with like-minded acts that range from dense and orchestral to minimalist and meandering, and El Leñador’s faux-German decor is a Lynchian fever dream that works in kind with all the noise.
SLAM Underground: Action
7 p.m. Saint Louis Art Museum, 1 Fine Arts Drive. Free. 314-721-0072. SLAM weaves together sight and sound, then twists the work into an inter-dimensional race across the east and west. It all starts with film and continues through the night with live performances by St. Louis’ own Hounds and the renowned DJ Agile One. Sun Xun: Time Spy is the exhibit on hand, offering an interdisciplinary work animating the centuries-old technique of woodblock printing. The indie-rockers in Hounds have been called on to provide a live presence to the night, which marries all the disparate elements into a cool, inclusive vibe.
Zepparella w/ Sisser
8 p.m. Off Broadway, 3509 Lemp Avenue. $15. 314498-6989. Rather than strive for hard-nosed accuracy or a carbon-copy of what has become holy parchment, Zepparella takes Led Zeppelin as a spiritual guide rather than a template. Sure, the fact that the band is made up of four women makes for good marketing, but that’s little more than subtext next to the intricate grooves and impossibly polyrhythmic rip throughout. Plant, Page, Jones and Bonham are merely molds for vocalist Noelle Doughty, guitarist Gretchen Menn, bassist Angeline Saris and drummer Clementine to break as the legendary rock catalog is merely a map for Zepparella to navigate. Now, just for fun, try to imagine what ZAPPArella would sound like. Continued on pg 64
Make Good Times Your Weekend Destination 200 N. MAIN, DUPO, IL @GOODTIMES.PATIO.BAR riverfronttimes.com
MAY 23 - 29, 2018
RIVERFRONT TIMES
61
FOX SPORTS MIDWEST LIVE AT BALL PARK VILLAGE PRESENTS
TUESDAY 29
[CRITIC’S PICK]
FREE MUSIC FESTIVAL
SUNDAY, MAY 27 memorial day weekend featuring live music by
GRATEFUL DEAD EXPERIENCE
THE SCHWAG
DOORS TRIBUTE BAND SUBLIME TRIBUTE BAND MOLLY ADAMSON
DANCING BEAR TRIBE PERFORMANCE GROUP
Wye Oak. | VIA THE BILLIONS CORPORATION
Wye Oak 8 p.m. Friday, May 25. The Ready Room, 4195 Manchester Avenue. $15 to $18. 314-833-3929. Wye Oak isn’t your run-of-the-millenialmilieu guitar-and-drum duo. For one, nominal front-person Jenn Wasner has a thrilling voice, airy without being fey, sexy without being cloying. Nominal
30+ VENDORS • ALL AGES WELCOME
drummer Andy Stack somehow mans
MUSIC FROM 3 PM TO 11 PM
keys and loops and pedal effects while
BALL PARK VILLAGE
601 CLARK STREET, ST. LOUIS, MO RAIN OR SHINE EVENT, INCASE OF RAIN EVENT WILL BE MOVED INSIDE
harmonizing sweetly, as Wasner switches between keys and bass. While its sound has become increasingly dense and experimental, the band’s new album The Louder I Call, the Faster It Runs is its most accessible and tuneful since its brilliant debut If Children. Synth lines burst through the melodies, akin to Merge labelmates Spoon, but with an uncanny sense of atmosphere that’s as comfortable with a Tricky-driven dance floor as it is sundown bedroom pop reverie. Can Wye Oak pull it all off live? One way to find out...
Thursday May 24 9:30PM Urban Chestnut Presents
Alligator Wine’s
Tribute To Dylan Via The Dead Friday May 25 10PM
Speaking of Uncanny: Local openers Delia and Hannah Rainey, a.k.a. Dubb Nubb, make weird and winsome folkpop with the preternatural instincts that only twin sisters share. —Roy Kasten
Jeremiah Johnson Band Saturday May 26 10PM
Kim Massie
Sunday May 27 10PM
Gene Jackson Band Monday May 28 9PM
Soulard Blues Band
Longest Running Blues Jam in America! Wednesday May 30 9:30PM Urban Chestnut Presents
The Voodoo Players Tribute To The Black Crows
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RIVERFRONT TIMES
MAY 23 - 29, 2018
riverfronttimes.com
St. Louis, 314-533-0367. WITHIN THE GIANT’S REACH: w/ As Earth Shatters, Dr. Dick Ramirez, Wrecklamation, Grays Divide 7 p.m., $8-$10. Fubar, 3108 Locust St, St. Louis, 314-289-9050. ZACH & MAGGIE: w/ Marc Torlina 6:30 p.m., $5. Foam Coffee & Beer, 3359 Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314-772-2100.
MONDAY 28
SMUT: w/ Ronnie Rogers, Frankie Valet 8:45 p.m., $5. Foam Coffee & Beer, 3359 Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314-772-2100. THIRD SIGHT “SPECIAL EDITION”: 8 p.m., $10. BB’s Jazz, Blues & Soups, 700 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-436-5222. TIM ALBERT: 7 p.m., free. Hammerstone’s, 2028 S. 9th St., St. Louis, 314-773-5565. THE WELL: w/ Scuzz 8 p.m., $10. The Sinkhole, 7423 South Broadway, St. Louis, 314-328-2309.
BLIND WILLIE & BROADWAY COLLECTIVE: 7 p.m., $5. BB’s Jazz, Blues & Soups, 700 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-436-5222. DAWN OF THE NIM: w/ Toaster, 3 of 5, HUHT, A Leaf In The Street 9 p.m., $5. The Ready Room, 4195 Manchester Ave, St. Louis, 314-833-3929. KDAVER: w/ Rotten Robbie, Sality, Lungz 7 p.m., $10-$12. Fubar, 3108 Locust St, St. Louis, 314289-9050. LADY RE’S “JUST FOR LAUGHS”: 10 p.m., $10. BB’s Jazz, Blues & Soups, 700 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-436-5222. NAKED MIKE: 7 p.m., free. Hammerstone’s, 2028 S. 9th St., St. Louis, 314-773-5565. RED SUN RISING: w/ Troy 8 p.m., $12-$15. Old Rock House, 1200 S. 7th St., St. Louis, 314-5880505.
WEDNESDAY 30
BIG RICH MCDONOUGH & RHYTHM RENEGADES: 7 p.m., $5. BB’s Jazz, Blues & Soups, 700 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-436-5222. GGOOLLDD: w/ Summer Magic 8 p.m., $10-$12. Old Rock House, 1200 S. 7th St., St. Louis, 314588-0505. JOHN MCVEY BAND: 8 p.m., free. Hammerstone’s, 2028 S. 9th St., St. Louis, 314-773-5565. KIMBRA: 8 p.m., $18-$21. Delmar Hall, 6133 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314-726-6161. LA LUZ: w/ The Whiffs 8 p.m., $12-$14. The Ready Room, 4195 Manchester Ave, St. Louis, 314-833-3929. MARGARET & ERIC: 4 p.m., free. Hammerstone’s, 2028 S. 9th St., St. Louis, 314-773-5565. MARTY SPIKENER & ON CALL BLUES BAND: 10 p.m., $5. BB’s Jazz, Blues & Soups, 700 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-436-5222. SMILE EMPTY SOUL: w/ Flaw, Eve To Adam, Talia 6 p.m., $16-$18. Fubar, 3108 Locust St, St. Louis, 314-289-9050. STORYTIME WITH UNCLE CHAD WALLACE AND FRIENDS: 9 p.m., free. The Heavy Anchor, 5226 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314-352-5226.
THIS JUST IN 3RD ANNUAL ST. LOUIS PIANO FESTIVAL: Mon., June 4, 6 p.m., $20. BB’s Jazz, Blues & Soups, 700 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-436-5222. ALEX ZAYAS BAND: Thu., June 7, 10 p.m., $5. BB’s Jazz, Blues & Soups, 700 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-436-5222. AR’MON & TREY: Sat., July 14, 3 p.m., $18.50$103.50. The Ready Room, 4195 Manchester Ave, St. Louis, 314-833-3929. BACK TO BACK: W/ Vaporize b2b Orange Juic3, Contract Thrillaz, Xstinction b2b Mobcat, Fourth Dimension b2b Sleach, Sat., June 23, 8 p.m., $10. Fubar, 3108 Locust St, St. Louis, 314-289-9050. BENT KNEE: W/ Gatherers, Family Medicine, ISH, Distant Eyes, Sun., July 8, 7 p.m., $12-$14. Fubar, 3108 Locust St, St. Louis, 314-289-9050. BIG RICH MCDONOUGH & RHYTHM RENEGADES: Sat., June 2, 7 p.m., $5. Wed., June 6, 9 p.m., $5. BB’s Jazz, Blues & Soups, 700 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-436-5222. BILLY DECHAND CD RELEASE: Fri., June 1, 7:30 p.m., $10. Pat Connolly Tavern, 6400 Oakland Ave., St. Louis, 314-647-7287. BLOODSTONE: Sun., June 10, 6 p.m., $62.50$375. Grandel Theatre, 3610 Grandel Square, St. Louis, 314-533-0367. BOB LOG III: Tue., Oct. 30, 8 p.m., $10. Off Broadway, 3509 Lemp Ave., St. Louis, 314-4986989. BOB SEGER AND THE SILVER BULLET BAND: Fri., Nov. 30, 7 p.m., TBA. Enterprise Center, 1401 Clark Ave., St. Louis, 314-241-1888. BODEANS: Wed., Aug. 22, 8 p.m., $22-$25. Old Rock House, 1200 S. 7th St., St. Louis, 314-5880505. BOOMTOWN UNITED LP RELEASE PARTY: W/ Mathias and the Pirates, Guns of Bridgeton, Brick City Sound System, Sat., June 23, 7 p.m., $9-$12. The Firebird, 2706 Olive St., St. Louis, 314-535-0353. BRIAN CURRAN: Thu., May 24, 4 p.m., free. Hammerstone’s, 2028 S. 9th St., St. Louis, 314773-5565. CIARAN LAVERY: Wed., June 27, 8 p.m., free. Off Broadway, 3509 Lemp Ave., St. Louis, 314-4986989.
DAVID BROMBERG: Fri., Aug. 3, 8 p.m., $30. Old Rock House, 1200 S. 7th St., St. Louis, 314-5880505. DAWN OF THE NIM: W/ Toaster, 3 of 5, HUHT, A Leaf In The Street, Tue., May 29, 9 p.m., $5. The Ready Room, 4195 Manchester Ave, St. Louis, 314-833-3929. DEATHCROWN: W/ Animated Dead, Groin Mallet, Mon., June 18, 8 p.m., $10-$12. Fubar, 3108 Locust St, St. Louis, 314-289-9050. DR. ZHIVEGAS PERFORMING THE MUSIC OF PURPLE RAIN: Fri., July 13, 9 p.m., $20-$60. Old Rock House, 1200 S. 7th St., St. Louis, 314-5880505. DRUNKS WITH GUNS: W/ The Hoaries, Trauma Harness, Tue., July 10, 8 p.m., $12-$14. Fubar, 3108 Locust St, St. Louis, 314-289-9050. EILEN JEWELL: Fri., Aug. 24, 8 p.m., $15. Off Broadway, 3509 Lemp Ave., St. Louis, 314-4986989. ERIK BROOKS: Sun., May 27, 8 p.m., free. Hammerstone’s, 2028 S. 9th St., St. Louis, 314-7735565. EZRA FURMAN: Sat., Oct. 6, 7 p.m., $15-$17. Fubar, 3108 Locust St, St. Louis, 314-289-9050. FLEECE: W/ Jeske Park, Angel Food, Tue., June 12, 7 p.m., $8-$10. The Firebird, 2706 Olive St., St. Louis, 314-535-0353. GALLAGHER: Mon., Nov. 12, 7 p.m., $35-$45. River City Casino & Hotel, 777 River City Casino Blvd., St. Louis, 314-388-7777. GENESIS JAZZ PROJECT: Sun., June 3, 6 p.m., $10. BB’s Jazz, Blues & Soups, 700 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-436-5222. HELMET: Thu., June 28, 8 p.m., $20-$22.50. Delmar Hall, 6133 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314-726-6161. HIDEOUS GENTLEMEN: W/ Hookie, $3. The Ready Room, 4195 Manchester Ave, St. Louis, 314833-3929. HITSVILLE USA: A TRIBUTE TO MOTOWN: W/ Roland Johnson, Kim Massie, Eugene Johnson, Marty Abdullah, Miss Molly Simms, Sean Kimble, Sat., June 30, 8 p.m., $12. Off Broadway, 3509 Lemp Ave., St. Louis, 314-498-6989.
[CRITIC’S PICK]
Willie Akins Jazz Festival 4 p.m. Sunday, May 27. Grandel Theater, 3610 Grandel Square. Free. 314-533-0367. Earlier this year, local jazz pianist Ryan Marquez told the Riverfront Times about a recent dream: Willie Akins, the late titan of the tenor saxophone and Marquez’s old bandleader, came to him in a vision and encouraged him to keep playing. Akins’ spirit remains strong three years after his passing, both with his former students at Webster University and the many players he mentored on the bandstand. Local singer Joe Mancuso has organized the second annual Willie Akins Jazz Festival in his honor, and a host of local jazz luminaries will take the stage at the Grandel Theater to honor his memory, mentorship and music. The event is free, but all donations will go to the Willie Akins Music Scholarship at Webster. First Calls Only: Fellow sax players Ken-
IVAS JOHN & BRIAN CURRAN: Thu., June 7, 7 p.m., $5. BB’s Jazz, Blues & Soups, 700 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-436-5222. JACKAL FEST PRE PARTY: Thu., June 21, 9 p.m., $5. The Ready Room, 4195 Manchester Ave, St. Louis, 314-833-3929. JACKIE COHEN: Tue., July 17, 8 p.m., $10-$13. Kranzberg Arts Center, 501 N Grand Blvd, St. Louis, 314-533-0367. JEREMIAH JOHNSON BAND: Thu., May 24, 8 p.m., $5. Hammerstone’s, 2028 S. 9th St., St. Louis, 314-773-5565. JOE ROGAN: Sat., Aug. 11, 7 p.m., $36.50-$72. Peabody Opera House, 1400 Market St, St. Louis, 314-499-7600. JOHN MCVEY BAND: Wed., May 30, 8 p.m., free. Hammerstone’s, 2028 S. 9th St., St. Louis, 314773-5565. K. MICHELLE: Tue., July 3, 9 p.m., $45-$60. The Pageant, 6161 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314-7266161. LEROY JODIE PIERSON: Fri., June 1, 7 p.m., $5. BB’s Jazz, Blues & Soups, 700 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-436-5222. LOVE JONES “THE BAND”: Sat., June 2, 10 p.m., $5. Sun., June 3, 8 p.m., $10. BB’s Jazz, Blues & Soups, 700 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314-4365222. LYDIA: W/ Jared & The Mill, Cherry Pools, Sat., Aug. 18, 8 p.m., $15-$18. Blueberry Hill - The Duck Room, 6504 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314-727-4444.
Always a Great Time in the Neighborhood
WEEKEND Continued from pg 62 SATURDAY, MAY 26
Black Privilege Tour w/ Oren Major, Tonero, Paris Cherrell, Ghost Le’on, Louie100
8 p.m. Foam Coffee and Beer, 3359 Jefferson Avenue. $7. 314-772-2100. Atlanta native Oren Major won’t shy from being geek-chic and evocative in a single breath. The rapper’s tour poster has “Black Privilege” scrawled across the top with art that straightup apes Dragon Ball Z. Maybe that’s disarming, but Oren Major opts to dive in bare-naked — figuratively speaking — with a buoyancy befitting, for the lack of a better comparison, a young Kanye. This is lyrical sharpshooting that pulls no punches and leaves little to the imagination.
Cooper-Moore, Joshua Abrams and Hamid Drake
8 p.m. Off Broadway, 3509 Lemp Avenue. $10 to $20. 314-498-6989. New Music Circle wraps up its 59th year by bringing, forgive the hyperbole, an all-star ensemble to the stage at Off Broadway. While the organization has paired its exploratory programs with equally eclectic venues such as warehouses, art galleries and theaters, NMC calls on the tried-and-true concert quarters at Off Broadway to host this supergroup. Cooper-Moore (self-built instruments, keyboards, percussion) leads accomplished film scorer Joshua Abrams (guimbri, upright bass) and Hamid Drake (drums) for a compelling and adventurous night of incredible avant jazz and free-improvisation. –Joseph Hess
! u o y hank
T
VOTED ST. LOUIS’ FAVORITE OUTDOOR/PATIO DINING!
#patiolife
drick Smith, Paul DeMarinis and the Bosman Twins will take the stage alongside the likes of Montez Coleman, Ptah Williams and Kyle Honeycutt. —Christian Schaeffer
Each week we bring you our picks for the best concerts of the weekend. To submit your show for consideration, visit riverfronttimes. com/stlouis/Events/AddEvent. All events subject to change; check with the venue for the most up-to-date information.
1818 Sidney (at Lemp) @truemansinsoulard riverfronttimes.com
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SAVAGE LOVE PISSY BY DAN SAVAGE Hey, Dan: I like watersports, and I heard about a guy in a rural area who holds piss parties in his backyard. I found a mailing list for those interested in piss play, and it wasn’t long before he posted about one of these parties. People on the list talk a big game, but no one else has stepped up to host something, including me. (I would, but four neighbors look into my backyard.) The host has very simple rules for who can attend: You have to identify as a guy and wear masculine attire. I get to the party, and there were about four guys and the host. I had a good time. The host had plenty of drinks out, towels, chairs, canopies and candles to ward off the mosquitos. I’ve been back a couple times. Everyone is friendly enough and there’s the right amount of perversion. So what’s the problem? The host. He’s loud and annoying. He insists on putting classical music on (it doesn’t set the mood very well). He tells the same lame jokes every time he’s pissing on someone. He will complain that people say they’re coming and don’t show. If you are having a moment with someone, he will invariably horn in on the action. Without being rude, I’ve tried to make it clear that we are not looking for company, but he doesn’t take the hint. It’s his party, and props to him for hosting it — but it takes the fun out of it when the host doesn’t know when to back off. I’ve gotten to the point where it’s not worth the effort to go. Do I just get over it, or say something privately? Person Exasperates Enthusiast The advice I gave a different reader about dealing with a guest horning in on the action at an orgy applies in your case: “Even kind and decent people can be terrible about taking hints — especially when doing so means getting cut out of a drunken fuckfest. So don’t hint, tell. There’s no rule of etiquette that can paper over the discomfort and awkwardness of that moment, so you’ll just have to power through it.” Swap out “drunken fuckfest”
for “drenchin’ piss scene,” and the advice works — up to a point, PEE, because the person in your case who needs telling, not hinting, isn’t one of the guests, he’s the host. (And he sounds like a gracious host. I mean, drinks, towels and canapés* at a piss party? Swank.) But your host’s behavior sounds genuinely annoying. Hosting a sex party doesn’t give someone the right to insert himself into someone else’s scene, and stupid jokes have the power to kill the mood and murder the boners. So what do you do? Well, you could send your host an email or give him a call. Thank him for the invite, let him know you appreciate the effort he goes to (such delicious canapés!), and then tell him why some people say they’re coming and don’t show: You’re too loud, your music is awful, you have a bad habit of horning in on the action and you need to learn some new jokes to tell when you’re pissing on someone (or, better yet, not tell any jokes at all). But I don’t think ticking off a list of his shortcomings is going to get you anywhere other than crossed off the invite list to future parties. So why not make your own piss party? You don’t need a big backyard — I mean, presumably your place has a tub. Supplement your tub with a couple of kiddie pools on top of some plastic tarp laid down on the living room or basement floor. Ask your guests to keep it in the tub, pool or on the tarp. You get to choose the guys, you get to select the music, and, as host, you can lay down the law about making jokes and horning in on the action: Both are forbidden, and joke-telling horner-inners will be asked to pull up their pants and leave. One last thought: If you have it in you to invest some time in getting to know this guy — if you treat him like a human being — you might be able to draw him out on something that clearly frustrates him: guys who say they’re coming to the party but don’t show. If he seems genuinely baffled, PEE, that’s your opening to ask if he’d like some constructive feedback. If he says yes, you can very gently run through your list of ways to improve his parties: no jokes, better music and a
“I used to slip on a dick once every few years — before I quit drinking tequila — and that didn’t make me any less of a raging, homoromantic dyke.” “no horning in” rule for all (not just for him). * Yes, I know: There were canopies at the party, not canapés — tents, not hors d’oeuvres. But I read it as canapés at first, and the mental image of piss players daintily eating canapés between scenes was so much more entertaining than the mental image of piss players huddling under canopies that I stuck with my original reading. Hey, Dan: I had a MMF threesome with my husband and a man we met on Instagram (of all places)! Everyone had a good time, and there was no awkwardness afterward. I think things went so well because after years of reading Savage Love, we knew to “use our words” and treat our “very special guest star” with respect! Thanks, Dan! My Ultimate Fantasy Fulfilled You’re welcome, MUFF! Hey, Dan: I’m a cis woman and recently came out as a lesbian after identifying as bisexual for three years. After having sexual encounters with men and women, I finally admitted to myself that I am gay. Now that I’m finally out, I don’t want to do anything that would make me feel like denying it again. My question is, am I a bad lesbian if I sleep with a guy? I’m currently working 50 hours a week and going to school. I don’t have time for a relationship, and finding casual hookups with women is difficult.
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A male friend I know and trust recently propositioned me. At first I said no, but now I’m rethinking it. Sex with men doesn’t compare at all to sex with women for me. On a scale of one to ten, it’s definitely in the below five range. But my mind says, “It’s still sex!” and I would enjoy it to a point. But I worry that doing this would call my sexuality into question. I feel like I’d definitely have to hide this from my friends. And if I feel guilty enough to hide it, maybe I shouldn’t do it? Finally identifying as a lesbian was like breathing out for me. I feel way more like myself and am way happier now. But I worry that even being willing to consider this makes me seem bi. I guess I’m looking for permission and absolution. Would this make me a “bad” lesbian? Or would it mean I should identify as bi? Girl Asking You I’ve often been accused of having a pro-dick-sitting bias, GAY, so I decided to recuse myself and pass your question on to a couple of lesbians. “She is way too concerned with labels,” said Lesbian No. 1. “I used to slip on a dick once every few years — before I quit drinking tequila — and that didn’t make me any less of a raging, homoromantic dyke. And if her friends give that much of a fuck about who she bones, she needs friends with more interesting hobbies.” “I don’t think there is anything wrong with her or any lesbian wanting to sleep with a guy,” said Lesbian No. 2. “I wouldn’t sleep with a guy, but I do agree that women trying to casually hook up with other women is much more difficult than men with men or even men with women. Women instantly want to be your longterm partner after one hookup — the U-Haul jokes are fucking real. But if identifying as something is important to her, I think identifying as queer might be a better option for now rather than struggling to figure out if she is only bi or only lesbian and only those forever.” Listen to Dan’s podcast at savagelovecast.com. mail@savagelove.net @fakedansavage on Twitter ITMFA.org
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HONORS & AWARDS
• Charles Shaw Trial Advocacy Award • Missouri SuperAward Lawyers •Charles Shawand TrialKansas Advocacy •Missouri and Super Lawyers • St.Kansas Louis Magazine, •St.Lawyers Louis Magazine, Best in St. Louis DWI Best Lawyers inTimes St. Louis • Riverfront BestDWI Lawyer •Riverfront Times Best Lawyer • Best Lawyers in United States •Best Lawyers in United States • BestLawyer Lawyertotocall callfrom fromaaDWI DWIcheckcheckpoint, •Best inin Missouri for point,asasvoted votedbybylawyers lawyers Missouri MissouriLawyers LawyersWeekly Weekly for Missouri
Proven Defense by a Former Law Enforcement Officer Proven Defense by a Former Law Enforcement Officer Experienced and Focused winning Cases EXPERIENCED & FOCUSED WINNING CASES They Say Can’t Be Won Missouri Drunk Driving Attorney Missouri Drunk Driving Attorney
They Say Can’t Be Won
TRAVIS NOBLE, P.C.
Don’t trust just anyone with your DWI defense. Contact the law firm of Travis Noble, P.C., by e-mail or call us at 314-450-7849 or 866-794-0947 to schedule your free consultation with a St. Louis DWI lawyer to discover that you have more options than you imagined. We 8000 MARYLAND AVENUE, SUITEDiscover 350 accept all major credit cards, including Visa, MasterCard, and American Express.
ST. LOUIS, MO 63105 PHONE: 314-721-6040 Travis Noble, P.C. TOLL FREE:Suite 866-794-0947 8000 Maryland Avenue, 350 | St. Louis MO 63105 Phone: 314-721-6040 | Toll Free: 866-794-0947 The choice of a lawyer is an important decision and should not be based solely upon advertisements. This disclosure is required by rule of the Supreme Court of Missouri.
The choice of a lawyer is an important decision and should not be based solely upon advertisements. This disclosure is required by rule of the Supreme Court of Missoui.
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MAY 23 - 29, 2018
RIVERFRONT TIMES
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RIVERFRONT TIMES
MAY 23 - 29, 2018
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