Short Orders

24

SHORT ORDERS

[FOOD NEWS]

Winner Winner

Juniper launches ‘all you care to eat’ fried-chicken Sunday suppers

Written by CHERYL BAEHR

John Perkins knows that, right now, people need all the comfort they can get. That’s why he and his team have decided to up the ante at their already soul-warming restaurant, Juniper (4101 Laclede Avenue, 314-329-7696), by offering a new Sunday dining package that is sure to please.

“I think the idea of sitting around a pile of fried chicken and drinking a pitcher of cocktails is the kind of comfort people want right now,” Perkins says.

In that spirit, Perkins, executive chef Matt Daughaday and the Juniper team are excited to launch their new Sunday Suppers, a weekly event that will feature all-you-care-to-eat platters of either its regular or hot fried chicken, family-style sides and cornbread for the all-inclusive price of $24.99 per person. Pitchers of batch cocktails, which roughly contain four drinks, will be offered for $19.99, shots of bourbon and tequila are available at $1.99 a piece, and Busch beer will cost you a mere 99 cents. The regularly occurring event will run from 5 until 9 p.m. and began last Sunday.

As Perkins explains, the idea for Sunday Suppers harkens back to a popular dinner series called Monday Night Meat and Three offered at Juniper’s original Boyle Avenue location. When he moved the restaurant to its new corner spot on Laclede Avenue in 2018, he discontinued the series because he felt it didn’t uite fit for what he was doing there, though he always had it in the back of his mind that he might try it again. Perkins does not mince words about why the timing seems right to do so at this particular moment.

“On a very practical level, we need to find ways to dri e re enue without overextending ourselves on the labor front,” Perkins explains. “We’re currently open fi e days a week, and within that time frame, we wanted to see what areas we could get more business. Lunches are not really an option right now, and the only service we aren’t doing on a day we are open is Sunday night. We started batting ideas around, and this just made sense because chicken has always been our calling card.”

Fried chicken is not simply a revenue stream for Perkins, however. Though he has been frying up crispy bird for the past eight years, Perkins insists he is not tired of it and considers the dish to be a labor of love. He believes this is why Juniper’s fried chicken has occupied — and continues to occupy — such a special place in the hearts of St. Louis diners.

“This is going to sound super cheesy, but it’s true: I really love fried chicken,” Perkins says. “I actually really love it and have never gotten tired of it. Maybe chefs at different times have gotten tired of it, but I haven’t, and I think that matters on some level. I think it’s easy for highminded chefs to have a resentment toward it because it seems too lowbrow, but Matt [Daughaday] doesn’t have that approach. He gets it and really understands that there is still a lot of art in making really good fried chicken, as well as intention and thought that goes into it. He cares about making sure that it’s the best version possible when it goes out of our kitchen.”

To that end, Perkins and Daughady are not content simply following the usual recipe and sticking with how they have always made their famous dish. Instead, they are always driven to make it better, and take opportunities to tweak and perfect the recipe rather than making it from rote memory.

“We are constantly thinking about it and wanting to improve on it, because I don’t think it is ever perfect, and it’s worth improving what is already a good thing,” Perkins says. “When you are always trying to make it better, I think you end up with a product that people really enjoy and love to eat.”

Perkins plans on continuing Sunday Suppers for as long as there is demand. He suspects it to be a popular event, though he is not taking reservations; the dinners will be walk-in only. In addition to the chicken, side and drink specials, he plans to also offer comfort-food-driven desserts for an additional fee, with items like a cast-iron skillet brownie on the horizon. He believes that, coupled with the shockingly cheap booze, will create the sort of end-ofweekend outing people need.

“I was joking with our staff at our meeting last week that we can finally be the truck stop we’ e always wanted to be now that we’ve adopted the 99-cent pricing model,” Perkins laughs. n

You now can eat as much of this fried chicken as your heart desires on Sundays. | LUCAS PETERSON

“ We are constantly thinking about it and wanting to improve on it, because I don’t think it is ever perfect, and it’s worth improving what is already a good thing.”

[FIRST LOOK]

Root Beer

Schlafly Highland Square brings cra beer and pub fare to Highland, Illinois

Written by CHERYL BAEHR

When the chlafly fa ily made their way to the United States from Switzerland in the mid-1800s, they put down roots in Highland, Illinois. That’s why the brewery’s new brewpub location, chlafly ighland uare, feels like a homecoming. or the chlaflys, this is where they immigrated when they came from Switzerland, and some of the first chlaflys in the nited States] are buried in Highland,” says Wil Rogers, director of marketing for chlafly eer. Their ancestors are buried here. Those roots are what brings us back here, which is really cool.” chlafly opened its ighland location on December 22. This is the fourth brewpub for the brand and came just days before the brewery celebrated its 30th anniversary on December 26. In keeping with the spirit of the three other locations, the new pub has a distinctive chlafly feel while being uni uely tailored to the community.

The Highland vibe is noticeable even before you walk into the building. Situated directly on the small town’s popular square, the new restaurant resides in a former bank, which dates back to the early s. The chlafly team made sure that the new spot would flow directly into that pedestrian area by creating a patio and grassy outdoor green space that looks out over the square.

Inside, they maintained the architectural integrity of the former bank’s art deco style by refurbishing much of the original structure, including columns, molding and light fi tures. The indoor space is painted in the same cream, mauve and mint green as the renovators believe the original colors to have been. Even the bank’s safe has been preserved, occupying a position of prominence behind the wooden bar. chlafly has catered the ighland brewpub’s menu to the town’s historic Swiss roots as well. Though the offerings include the burgers, salads and flatbreads found at the brand’s other locations, the Highland location has ore of a wiss er an inflection. Dishes that underscore this theme include the Proper Fondue for Two, a dip made from molten goat and Alpine cheese and proper cider served with smoked sausage, apples and bread for dipping. Other ighland specific dishes include jagerschnitzel, which is a pork cutlet, served with mushroom-bacon sauce and mashed potatoes; kasespaetzle, a baked spaetzle with ham, Swiss cheese, caramelized onions, chives and breadcrumbs; and Thighs and Pies, a dish of two buttermilk fried-chicken thighs served alongside a spinach and sweet potato hand pie and covered in white gravy.

“This is a very historic Swiss town, and there is this smallertown vibe, so a lot of that comes out in the menu,” Rogers says. “The menu is always a great avenue to give each place a little bit of its own fingerprint.”

To that end, director of pub operations Andy White is making an effort to include area vendors as much as possible on the menu. From Marcoot Creamery cheese, which is located nearby, to Ski Soda, Frosty’s Root Beer and produce from Illinois farmers, the Highland location will showcase the bounty available in the area.

In the future, Rogers says that the Highland location will have its own beer brewed specifically for it. Called the Highland Lager, the forthcoming beer will be a light, approachable American-style lager, which will cater to drinkers who may be intimidated or turned off by the idea of craft beer. ogers also says that the chlafly team is open to doing special events in conjunction with the city and hopes to participate in whatever happenings are taking place in this vibrant community.

“Highland loves their town square, so there is always something going on here,” Rogers says. “Much more than the other three, this place really feels ingrained into the community.” n

“ ighs and Pies” is one of the Swiss-inflected dishes now available at the new Schlafly Highland Square. | CHERYL BAEHR

A safe behind the bar reminds guests of the building’s history as a bank. | CHERYL BAEHR

Slice of the Pie

Pizza Head is now under new ownership, will expand vegan o erings

Written by CHERYL BAEHR

Pizza Head (3196 South Grand Boulevard, 314-266-5400), the irre erent, punk rock inflected pizzeria known for its vegetarian New York style pies, has a new captain of its ship — two of them. The restaurant announced last week that it is now under new ownership. Scott Sandler, the restaurant’s founder, has sold the restaurant to Dylan Dodson and Sam Driemeier, who Sandler promises “will take it to the next level.”

In a January 4 Facebook post announcing the sale, Sandler thanked Pizza Head’s supporters and noted that he would be “taking an extended vacation after 8 successful years of 24/7 work.” He did not give reason for the sale and said he would not be leaving the industry but will transition to consulting work.

“I’ll still be demoing and lecturing at the Pizza Expo in March,” Sandler’s post reads. “I will also be consulting new and current owners in the finer points of aintaining a high profit argin while keeping wages high, as well as how to expand vegan options.”

As for what’s in store for Pizza Head, Dodson and Driemeier insist that the restaurant’s fans can rest assured that they will not be making any changes to the pizza they’ve come to know and love.

“We are thrilled to continue to serve you the delicious New York style pizza that you’ve come to love for the last 4 1/2 years,” their post on Pizza Head’s Facebook page reads. “We do not plan on taking anything off of the menu, but there are plans for some great (vegan) additions to the menu.”

Sandler founded Pizza Head in 2017 as a casual, punk-rock answer to his more serious freshman effort, Pizzeoli, which he opened in Soulard in 2014. A former mortgage investor turned Neapolitan-pizza obsessive, he became known for his exacting approach to the quintessential southern Italian pie form, as well as his ability to make vegetarian and vegan options appealing to even the most devout meat-onpizza eaters.

Dodson and Driemeier plan to carry on that philosophy, promising new vegan offerings as well as expanded hours and dine-in service when they feel it is safe to do so. They also look forward to relaunching Pizza Head’s charitable initiative, Pay It Forward, and are currently working with area nonprofits to sketch out the details. n

Pizza Head’s new owners promise the same great pizza and even more vegan o erings. | MABEL SUEN

[FOOD NEWS]

Fruit for All

Eckert’s in Belleville to begin accepting SNAP benefits

Written by JENNA JONES

Chris Eckert, the president of Eckert’s Inc., says community is at the heart of everything they do at the farm. That’s why the company recently announced that they will begin accepting Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program payments, known as SNAP, through EBT cards, allowing visitors another means to get fresh fruits and vegetables when they visit the Belleville location (951 S Green Mt Road, 618-310-2758). “From the very beginning, we’ve always strived to put more farm-grown produce and local foods in the hands of our community where it matters most,” Eckert says in a press release announcing the program. “We now have the opportunity to provide fresh and healthy food straight from the source to those who may have limited access otherwise.”

The press release details that the move comes after a successful partnership between Operation Food Search and Eckert’s that helped the nonprofit organization’s more than 200 food pantries throughout the bi-state region. The acceptance of SNAP payments allows shoppers at the country stores to purchase fresh produce, meat, fish, bread and dairy products.

In addition to the country stores, people can also use the SNAP payments on the “pick your own” produce. However, guests still must purchase admission for field access. Eckert’s Garden Center will also accept SNAP benefits to purchase seeds to grow fruits and vegetables at home. Both Missouri and Illinois residents are eligible.

The farm hopes to extend the benefits to its other locations in the future. n

SNAP Benefits will now be accepted at Eckert’s Farms. | COURTESY ECKERT’S FARMS

28

ST. LOUIS STANDARDS

[ST. LOUIS STANDARDS]

Same Old Song

Even as the Loop evolves, Meshuggah retains the unique character that makes it special

Written by CHERYL BAEHR

If you want to know the special place Meshuggah Café holds in the hearts of its longtime regulars, consider the term owner Jen Kaslow uses when she recounts its history.

“I do know the lore … is ‘lore’ the right word?” Kaslow laughs.

As owner and steward of the University City Loop institution for the past six and a half years — and a regular for roughly two decades prior to that — Kaslow is well versed in the history of Meshuggah. Founded in 1992 by two Washington University students named Jonathan and Nick, Café Chaos, as it was then called, was established on Melville Avenue as a place to gather, smoke and watch soccer.

“They were two dreaded-up hippies — free spirits who just wanted a place to congregate, smoke freely and drink coffee,” Kaslow says. “It had this really dark vibe, and people would go in there late at night to smoke cigarettes, play chess and drink really strong coffee from an espresso machine, which, at that time, hadn’t yet become a thing. It was the place in the neighborhood where all the artists and intellectuals came.”

After a few years, the original owners had a falling out; one left the partnership and the other renamed the coffeehouse Meshuggah, running it business as usual until he sold it to then-regular Patrick Liberto in 1997. Under Liberto’s watch, Meshuggah remained the subversive, dark hub for poets, writers, philosophers, chess players, clove cigarette smokers and other grunge-era characters that frequented the bohemian neighborhood. At first, he ade no changes to the place, keeping the coffee strong and catering to the late-night crowd of workers from Blueberry Hill and Vintage Vinyl until one day, there was a new policy he simply had to institute.

“He just couldn’t take the cigarette smoke anymore, so one day, he put an ashtray out front and made the place nonsmoking,” Kaslow recalls. “He lost a lot of business, but he stuck to his guns and kept the vibe the same otherwise. It was still a gathering place for people to exchange ideas and hang out lowkey.”

In 2003, Liberto made a change even bigger than the smoke-free policy when an opportunity arose for him to move Meshuggah from its small, off-the-beaten-path spot on Melville to a storefront directly on Delmar Boulevard. He took the chance despite protests from longtime Meshuggah loyalists who feared the more visible location would change the essential character of the coffeehouse from a counterculture gathering place to a watered-down version of itself. Though the new digs were certainly brighter by default — the large windows in the front of the cafe simply let in more daylight — the place retained its indie vibe while broadening its appeal.

In 2015, Liberto decided to sell Meshuggah in order to move back to his home state of Louisiana. On the day he made that announcement, Kaslow happened to stop in the shop, as she did nearly every day on her way to work, and heard the news that would change the trajectory of her life.

“I just had this feeling that someone had to buy this place, because it was such an institution at that point,” Kaslow says. “It was part of the fabric of the community and where everyone came together in the Loop. I wanted to maintain that spot for everybody, so I bought it on an impulse of wanting to keep this place that was so important to the Loop going.”

When Kaslow walked in the door to shadow iberto on her first day as owner of Meshuggah, she had never pulled a shot of espresso in her life. What she lacked in coffeemaking skills, however, she made up for in institutional knowledge of the place, dating back more than twenty years. Not long after Liberto had bought the coffee shop from

Meshuggah has been a Loop neighborhood gathering place for 30 years. | ANDY PAULISSEN

Jen Kaslow is now the owner and steward of the beloved co eehouse. | ANDY PAULISSEN

Bacon, egg and cheese on a toasted everything bagel with a Cortado to drink. | ANDY PAULISSEN e lo includes furniture from the original Meshuggah on Melville Avenue. | ANDY PAULISSEN

Barista Nick Henke has been coming to the cafe since he was a kid. | ANDY PAULISSEN

its original owners, Kaslow started frequenting the place after walking in one day hoping to make a sale on a new product she had developed. A serious rock climber, Kaslow had come up with an idea for a coffee mug with a handle that could open and close like a carabiner. After designing and manufacturing the mug, she went door to door trying to sell it to businesses, and tried her luck with Liberto and Meshuggah. Though Liberto wasn’t able to purchase her mugs at the time, he and Kaslow developed a friendship and she fell in love with the place, frequenting it as her business grew and even after she moved into her teaching career.

Kaslow had no intention of leaving her job in education, but the thought of Meshuggah simply ceasing to exist was enough to make her upend her life and take matters into her own hands. Since taking over the cafe, she has done her best to serve as a steward of its legacy, maintaining the character of the place that had developed naturally over the years, but giving it a polish it so desperately needed.

“A lot of people have come back and said it’s retained its core vibe but it’s cleaner,” Kaslow laughs. “There are so many people who have ties to this place — people who got engaged here twenty years ago, or people who come back here to celebrate anniversaries. Nothing makes me happier than when they say the vibe is still the same.”

Kaslow understands that what those longtime regulars feel when they come back is an intangible feeling that goes way beyond the fact that they are sitting at the same tables and drinking the same house Americano out of the same mugs as they did all those years ago. There is a connection to the cafe that they can feel radiating from every corner of the building, and in the faces of every person they recognize, that links them to whatever special moment in time the place triggers within them.

“There is a table I recognize from the Melville location, and I remember the artist who decoupaged it,” Kaslow says. “There is an intangible energy that comes from something that embedded. People feel that. Also — Patrick did it and I do this, too — I run it like it’s my home. When you are comfortable in a spot and your employees feel that way too, it generates from the kitchen out. I think this, and the fact that there are so many regulars that come in, give it that feeling. Eighty percent of the people that come in on a daily basis, I recognize their names and faces. They recognize each other too, and that gives everyone a sense of belonging.”

Now, just shy of seven years into running Meshuggah, Kaslow is looking to pass on the torch. Unwilling to sell the cafe to just anyone, she has committed to staying on until the right person comes along — someone who, like her, intends to honor the spirit of the coffeehouse and keep things as similar to the original feel as they can. She feels this is important not only for Meshuggah’s legacy, but for the Loop in general, which she sees as being in a transition period. definitely saw it change fro people with mohawks and army fatigues sitting on the Streetside Records wall and having it be this place where parents were leery of you going to a place where everyone was leaving,” Kaslow says. “Now they are coming back. It was hipster, then empty, and now it’s being repopulated.”

Kaslow believes that the Loop’s transition can be attributed to the growth of other artsy and entertainment areas cropping up in St. Louis over the years — Cherokee Street and the Grove, for instance. She also notes that Washington University’s increasing presence in the area has ushered in a great deal of change, though she doesn’t see that as a bad thing. Instead, she feels that the students bring with them an energy, and are just as interested in having the area stay interesting and eclectic because they, too, want to be a part of something unique. She believes these changes are why it’s so important for places like Meshuggah to continue to exist, and that no matter how much transformation the Loop sees, there will always be a place for a quirky cafe that fosters community.

“This is going to sound really cheesy, but I was thinking about old music that you hear and you think you are discovering it for the first ti e,” aslow says. eshuggah is like an old song that people think they are discovering for the first ti e. don’t know what that is, but my employees will tell me that they hear all these Wash U students saying ‘I found this really good place’ when they are talking about Meshuggah. I love people feeling like they are discovering it for the first ti e.” n