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Naomi Roquet says there is a simple way for customers to make the lives of bartenders and servers better: Be kind. | ANDY PAULISSEN
[ T H E TA K E O U T ]
Sick and Tired As the pandemic drags on, St. Louis’ food industry employees face burnout Written by
JENNA JONES
S
ix days a week, Naomi Roquet gets up, drinks a cup of coffee, smokes a cigarette and leaves for work at local pub Scottish Arms. But some days, she doesn’t want to. Some days, the weight of dealing with
harassment from customers who fight tooth and nail against wearing a mask, and the seemingly endless slog of COVID-19’s impacts on her wor , from staffing to supplies, is just a little too much to bear. But she carries on, greets her regulars and works her shift. She gets one day fully to herself to reset and relax with her fianc , who is also in the food industry. The day is mainly spent doing nothing in hopes of finding some peace. It’s a new reality for her and many other hourly hospitality employees who are involved in the production of the meal or drink that appears before you. From hostesses to cooks, from bartenders to servers, managers and owners, every aspect of your order comes down to a person helping along the way. This part of the food and beverage industry is not new. What is new is the way the
COVID-19 pandemic has impacted every aspect of their working lives. As one of the hardest-hit victims of the ongoing public health crisis, the daily reality in the food and beverage industry of taking care of guests prevents them from simply being “over it,” even when the rest of the world is so eager to move on. From the outset, owners have been vocal about the challenges brought on by the pandemic, such as staff shortages, inflated product costs, empty dining rooms and the difficulties that come with navigating ever-shifting rules and regulations. It has not been easy; some were simply unable to go on after the virus caused them close their doors, casualties of a situation beyond their control. But what about the people who work for them? Hourly employees have experienced firsthand the impact of
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shortages, both in terms of staffing and from the supply chain, which conspire to create a less than optimal guest experience they must negotiate. For the past two years, hourly employees have been the first line of defense against upset customers, and it has only gotten worse as the pandemic has raged on much longer than anyone would have imagined. Stressed themselves about the seemingly never-ending crisis, customers have eschewed their “we’re all in this together” mantra of the pandemic’s early days in favor of relentless complaints that include frustrations with mask requirements, long wait times and product outages. For some employees, it’s not only ruining their day; it’s ruining their desire to continue working in the industry altogether. Roquet recounts a guest not un-
JANUARY 26-FEBRUARY 1, 2022
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