Short Orders

[SIDE DISH]

Andrew Simon Leads

the Team at Charred

Crust Like a Pro Athlete Written by CHERYL BAEHR

Growing up, Andrew Simon was a talented athlete — so much so that he assumed he’d go on to play professionally one day. However, the moment he got his first job cooking, he felt for the first time in his life like he was being pulled in a different direction.

“I played a lot of soccer and basketball competitively, and with soccer, I could’ve had a chance to go on,” Simon recalls. “But when I was a freshman in high school — maybe even before that — I got my first job in the kitchen. I really picked it up and enjoyed it, and the more I kept going, the more I realized I had a passion for it.”

Simon, who currently co-owns Charred Crust (105 South Meramec Avenue, Clayton; 314-721-0393) with his business partner James Flemming, didn’t realize it when he applied for that first kitchen job, but he’d actually been showing interest in cooking since he was a little kid.

Not long after he was hired for that initial gig, his mom told him a story about how when he was younger and was asked what he wanted to do when he grew up, his response was always the same: play soccer or cook for people. She even had some old photographs of Simon when he was just three years old, rolling out dough in the kitchen with the family’s matriarchs.

Still, it wasn’t until he got his feet wet in a professional kitchen that he realized cooking was something he would want to pursue as a career. His first taste of the business came while working at a pizzeria owned by Tony

Andrew Simon is co-owner of Charred Crust in Clayton. | TRENTON ALMGREN-DAVIS

Bono’s restaurant family and, based on his experiences there, he felt his interest shifting from sports to cooking. By the time he was nearing the end of high school, he’d made up his mind to focus exclusively on a career in the kitchen. Simon got the basics of kitchen work down at the pizzeria, but he knew he needed to expand his skills if he wanted to move forward in his career. His mom told him about a job opening at a new restaurant, Pepperotini’s, so he decided he’d apply. Little did he know, he was completely out of his league.

“I went in there, and there were all of these older guys applying for jobs wearing sports coats and taking this test,” Simon recalls. “I made such a fool out of myself. I was so bad, I even spelled ‘sous’ wrong — I spelled it ‘sooey’ or something. The manager called me the next day to tell me I totally bombed the test. I got a zero out of a hundred, but he was so impressed that I had the balls to come in and take it that he let me come in and wash dishes, then work the line on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. It was tough, but I had to earn my way up.” Simon admits that his time at Pepperotini’s was grueling, but it was also invaluable and an experience that would make him the chef he is today. His co-workers razzed him relentlessly, calling him “newbie” and playing tricks on him like dyeing his chef coats for Valentine’s Day service. However, they also mentored him, quizzing him on the names of all the components of kitchen equipment, teaching him knife skills and giving him a great education on how to cook on the line.

His experience at Pepperotini’s solidified his decision to get serious about his career. Simon enrolled in culinary school at L’Ecole Culinaire and pursued his studies while working at the restaurant. When Pepperotini’s closed, he went on with his chef and some of his colleagues to Quintessential Dining and Nightlife in St. Charles before changing directions and heading into a more corporate environment with Aramark.

Aramark’s hours appealed to him, but he quickly realized that his true passion was in a restaurant kitchen. That, coupled with a desire for a change of scenery, led him to Colorado, where he worked in restaurants until he got a call from school that his student loans were coming due. He returned to St. Louis and picked up where he left off with school and was hired on at Table Three in Wildwood. At first it was just a daytime gig, but when one of the chefs there, Jodi Ferguson, saw Simon’s potential, he helped him rise through the ranks. Simon worked at Table Three for five and a half years, eventually becoming executive sous chef. He later moved on to become an executive chef at Innsbrook, then headed to Scape American Bistro in the Central West End, where he served as executive chef for three and a half years.

While at Scape, Simon met Flemming, and the two instantly connected over their similar work ethic and desire to open a restaurant of their own one day. The more they talked, the more they realized that they had the same vision for what that business would be, and eventually they decided to take the leap.

That restaurant, Charred Crust, opened last August as a quick-casual spot — much different in execution Continued on pg 32

from the fine-dining style of establishments Simon had worked in for most of his career. However, he and Flemming still bring the same culinary philosophy they shared at Scape to the more low-key environment, making everything in-house, sourcing as much locally as possible and taking extra steps to make even the most seemingly simple dishes stand out. Simon admits that owning his own business has been nerve-racking, but it has also been extraordinarily fulfilling. And when it is difficult, he can still draw upon his passion for sports, which he believes translates well to the restaurant business.

“When I talk with someone on the line or interview someone for a job, I always relate it to sports,” Simon explains. “Everyone plays a huge part in our success, so if someone is late or no-shows, it hurts the whole team. Every cylinder has to fire properly to make sure that the restaurant functions properly — just like sports, but with much sharper objects.”

Simon recently took a break from the kitchen to share his thoughts on the St. Louis food and beverage scene, his over-the-top sweet guilty pleasure and why sometimes it’s OK to watch your daughter’s Disney movies.

What is one thing people don’t know about you that you wish they did?

I don’t mind watching my daughter’s Disney movies.

What daily ritual is non-negotiable for you? Telling my wife and daughter I love them before I leave for work! And coffee.

If you could have any superpower, what would it be?

With a snap of my fingers, the kitchen would be organized, detailed and polished.

What is the most positive thing in food, wine or cocktails that you’ve noticed in St. Louis over the past year?

The St. Louis culinary field has gone from meat and potatoes to a more diverse palate.

Who is your St. Louis food crush? Wudon Korean BBQ and Carl’s Drive-In.

Who’s the one person to watch right now in the St. Louis dining scene?

I don’t have one, but when I see these St. Louis chefs build plates with passion, it makes for an enjoyable experience.

Which ingredient is most representative of your personality? Allspice. If you weren’t working in the restaurant business, what would you be doing?

Trying to become a pilot. Name an ingredient never allowed in your restaurant.

Chicken on steroids. What is your after-work hangout? Home. What’s your food or beverage guilty pleasure?

Cotton-candy ice cream with gummy bears.

What would be your last meal on Earth?

Coffee-encrusted Wagyu coulotte, or peanut butter and jelly with bacon on sourdough bread. n

[FIRST LOOK]

Clark & Bourbon Opens in Live! by Loews Next to Busch Stadium

Written by LIZ MILLER

Amonth ahead of the St. Louis Cardinals’ home opener, baseball fans have a few new destinations for dining and drinking near Busch Stadium. On February 26, the Live! by Loews hotel opened in downtown St. Louis at 799 Clark Avenue. Located inside the luxury eight-story hotel (which features 216 rooms) are multiple dining concepts featuring floor-to-ceiling views of neighboring Busch Stadium and Ballpark Village. The project is part of the $260 million expansion of Ballpark Village and is a joint venture between the Cordish Companies and the St. Louis Cardinals.

In addition to the new, fancy hotel (which is one of only 29 in the country), Live! by Loews has debuted several new dining and drinking destinations: Clark & Bourbon, Bar Bourbon (complete with its own whiskey-aging room) and River Market. Another concept, the Bullock, located on the second floor, is slated to open closer to the Cardinals’ home opener.

Executive chef Matt Lange will lead the kitchen at each of the spots. Before opening the concepts in St. Louis, Lange spent the past five years working at restaurants for the Live! by Loews hotel in downtown Chicago. Lange says that the entire kitchen crew has transplanted from Chicago to make Clark & Bourbon the best experience it can be for diners. The menu at Clark & Bourbon is focused on high-quality steaks, burgers, seafood and pasta dishes. Lange says Crab legs served at the grand opening. | TRENTON ALMGREN-DAVIS

he’s sourcing as many ingredients locally as possible and that there are dishes for diners of every diet and budget.

“There are unique plays on dishes, like the grilled Alaskan king crab comes spiced with togarashi and charred lemon,” Lange says. “And then there’s dishes for two, which I’m a big fan of, like the 30-ounce Tomahawk steak and a whole fried chicken. I think there’s a price point and a dish for everyone.”

Menu items range from salmon tartare with charred scallion aioli, pickled mustard seed, radish and everything bagel-spiced lavosh to Korean barbecue smoked wings and The Clark & Bourbon Burger, with a double patty, Widmer’s cheddar, onion strings, bread-and-butter pickles and house sauce. “Vegetarians will find plenty to enjoy, too,” Lange says, “including the Beyond Burger with vegan patties, American cheese, bread-andbutter pickles and house sauce, as well as the truffle tagliatelle.”

“The truffle tagliatelle is one of my favorites, and it’s more interactive dining because I’m looking to come tableside and shave some fresh black truffles over that dish,” he adds. If you’re more focused on drinking than pairing cocktails or a glass of wine with dinner, hit up Bar Bourbon, located in the center of Clark & Bourbon. Here you can pull up a chair at a communal table near the gorgeous fireplace or grab a seat on the outdoor patio, which faces Busch Stadium, and order a drink. Bourbon features heavily on the cocktail list, of course, but the concept’s name is also partially a nod to its on-site Whiskey Room.

The Whiskey Room features a large and impressive selection of around 500 bottles of whiskey, rye and bourbon, including rare and expensive pours from Pappy Van Winkle, Laphroaig and more. Wrapped in a warm orange glow and set back from the main dining area, the Whiskey Room is a stark contrast to the otherwise bright and modern bar and restaurant. Although meant to serve as separate concepts, Clark & Bourbon, Bar Bourbon and the Whiskey Room are all located on the ground floor of the hotel, and the spaces seamlessly flow into one another to almost create the atmosphere of one connected space. (Look closely in the dining room at Clark & Bourbon and you’ll spot baseball memorabilia displayed in the entryway and subtle touches like light fixtures that reassemble baseballs, albeit black and white ones.)

“I couldn’t be more excited; I think it’s such a unique property as you flow through it,” Lange says. “All of the coun

tertops and fixtures — there was so much attention to detail when they were building out the open kitchen.”

In addition to Clark & Bourbon, another concept, River Market, a grab-and-go bistro serving organic sandwiches, salads and juices, plus coffee, pastries and more, is also now open.

“[River Market] features Kaldi’s coffee, fresh baked pastries every day, things that are all organic, biodegradable, bio-dynamic products; it’s very unique,” Lange says. “It’s a transition away from eating like Pringles, Cheetos, Doritos. ... Everybody else has that, right? So it’s our little niche that is meant as light fare while you’re on the go or traveling.”

The last dining concept planned to open at Live! by Loews is the Bullock. Located on the complex’s second-floor terrace, the Bullock will offer an indoor and outdoor patio overlooking Busch Stadium and Ballpark Village. The concept will serve handcrafted cocktails and classic American cuisine, and offer fun “lawn games” on a stretch of bright green AstroTurf.

“It’s shareable menu items meant to be light snacks, light bites with your friends and family before or after a baseball game,” Lange says of the Bullock. “The patio overlooks Ballpark Village, and there’s AstroTurf with awesome lawn games. It’s a great place for friends and family to hang out before and after the game and there’s an amazing cocktail program as well.”

For Lange, opening these new dining concepts in the shadow of Busch Stadium has an extra special meaning and connection to his past.

“Obviously we’re right next to the baseball stadium, and I’m a big baseball fan myself — my dad played minorleague ball for the [Houston] Astros and [Minnesota] Twins, so I grew up going to baseball games,” Lange says. “Everybody here is a huge Cardinals fan, and it’s so awesome the draw that the team has; I’m looking forward to it.” n

Rise Coffee Debuts Remodel, New Menu Items Written by KRISTEN FARRAH

Jessie Mueller took a year to think about what Rise Coffee (4176 Manchester Avenue, 314-405- 8171) really needed. She first opened the space in 2013, and while she believes it has grown as a bridge in the community, there was something missing.

After a recent remodel, it turns out that it wasn’t a what that was missing but a who — specifically, Mueller’s grandmother was missing.

From 2015 until early 2019, Mueller had stepped away from Rise to focus on growing her family, and former employee Aaron Johnson bought the business. Although free time while raising two small children is sparse, Mueller used what limited free time she had to research more about her grandmother.

As a child with divorced parents, Mueller spent every weekend at her grandmother’s house growing up. She recalls her grandmother providing her a safe haven (plus warm biscuits on Saturday mornings). So when she bought back her business last year, she wanted to create a safe space for others in her community, like her grandmother had given her so many years ago.

“This new design of Rise is sort of deeper than just wanting to make a cool space,” Mueller says. “I want it to feel like a grandma’s hug.”

Retro wood paneling and antique lamps help set the new mood, as does beautiful mustard yellow banquette seating in a new booth. Mueller knew she wanted to include counter seating for customers much like you’d find at a diner. Three yellow-green swivel chairs now line the counter, allowing guests a close-up look at the baristas and espresso machine. Mueller likes to call it “diner chic.”

An exposed-brick wall peeks out from across the counter while wicker chairs line the dining area. Natural light from the front windows complement the soft pinks and oranges in

Rise Coee owner Jessie Mueller wanted to include counter seating to create more of a diner feel. | KRISTEN FARRAH

the updated color scheme. The vibe might send customers back to the 1970s or bring back childhood visits to Grandma’s house.

Rise has removed its lunch menu items and now features an exclusively breakfast-focused menu. The house breakfast sandwich is an absolute monster of a meal: Eggs, cheddar, tomato, bacon and avocado are all piled high between two light and fluffy biscuits. Did I mention the spicy mayo? Genius. Be warned, though: This is either an extremely confident day-date dish or the kind of breakfast to order when you’re unconcerned about clothing stains. By the time I finished eating this huge sandwich, I had smeared one ingredient or another all over my face without fail after each bite. That might just be a me thing, but the cleanup was 100 percent worth it.

At one point, I switched to using a fork to better savor every last bite. I had been eating this sandwich off and on while writing for an hour and had just arrived at the halfway mark. With only 25 minutes left before Rise closed for the day, I was now racing against the clock.

That’s OK, though: Mueller wants diners to linger long enough to hopefully make connections with other guests.

Mueller created Rise as her next step as a community activist. She transitioned from a teacher to a social worker to the owner of a coffee shop, and so she yearns to create a space for open conversation at Rise.

“I think now we’re in a place in society where a lot of people are polarized, and I really want Rise to be a space that is welcoming of conversation and all people, despite their beliefs,” Mueller says.

The space is designed to encourage more human interaction. Seats are strategically placed close together or at one long communal table. In just an hour, I watched two women next to me sit down separately only to now be planning to meet up in a different city. One of the women had been painting a Mardi Gras-themed project. Her watercolors were now all dried out as she divulged her fears of moving to a big city and exchanged contact info with the woman next to her.

Rise’s concept is a hub not only for sustaining community, but also for building on that existing community and welcoming guests with open arms. Mueller created Rise’s program, Coffee for the People, in the coffeehouse’s early days.

Coffee for the People is a simple concept: Customers can buy a meal or cup of coffee for a person in need. They write down a description of who they’re leaving it for on the back of a coffee sleeve and tack it to the Coffee for the People mural painted across a pale pink wall.

“It’s like a warm embrace,” Mueller says. “You’re welcome here; we want you here.”

The descriptions range from “For a queer person who’s new to St. Louis” to “For a student who needs a boost.” Mueller says that as the Grove goes through changes, not everyone can always afford a warm meal, so the program is Rise’s way of inviting community outreach within its walls. Mueller hopes Coffee for the People becomes Rise’s legacy in the Grove.

The upstairs of Rise features a children’s area which Mueller believes allows families to stay involved in community issues and discussions. As someone who brought her firstborn to work when she first opened Rise, Mueller understands the challenges of staying involved in the community as a parent.

“I want [customers] to feel safe,” Mueller says. “I want them to feel a sense of acceptance and excitement for what we’re doing here.”

Mueller’s passion for building community at Rise is equal to my passion for finishing this mighty breakfast sandwich. Thanks to my fork, it is now in pieces and looks more like a deconstructed art project than the original mouthwatering dish. There’s thirteen minutes to go before Rise closes for the day, and I’m no longer sure if I’m still hungry or just too competitive to give up. Perhaps I’ll have to allow myself more time on my next visit.

Rise Coffee is open from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily. n

THREE MONKEYS THREEMONKEYSRESTAURANT.COM INFO@THREEMONKEYSRESTAURANT.COM 314.772.980 3153 MORGANFORD RD. ST LOUIS, MO 63116

Under new ownership, Three Monkeys has transformed into one of the best neighborhood restaurants & whiskey pubs in the area. With an ever-growing list of over 60 whiskeys, 16 craft beers on draft, specialty cocktail & an exciting new menu of gastro pub favorites - they have something for everyone. The menu is ample with offerings, including some of St. Louis’s best hand-tossed pizza, great shareable appetizers, burgers, vegetarian options, pasta, steaks & more. Embracing the price point of other south city pubs, Three Monkeys offers a great happy hour! Come enjoy $6 select appetizers, including the best fried Brussels sprouts in town, $5 Manhattans, Sazeracs & Old Fashions, as well as discounts on wine & craft beer. Sunday features one of the most extensive brunch buffets in the city, loaded with your favorite breakfast items, an omelet & pasta station, plus seafood, appetizers, desserts, & many other goodies. Located in Tower Grove South, it’s the perfect place to have dinner, share a pizza with family, or just belly up to the bar with your favorite drink. SPONSORED CONTENT

BLK MKT EATS BLKMKTEATS.COM

314.391.5100 9 S. VANDEVENTER AVE. ST. LOUIS, MO 63108

The fast-fresh, made-to-order concept has been applied to everything from pizza to pasta in St. Louis, but the sushi burrito surprisingly had no Gateway City home until BLK MKT Eats opened near Saint Louis University last fall. It was worth the wait, though, because BLK MKT Eats combines bold flavors and convenience into a perfectly wrapped package that’s ideal for those in a rush. Cousins and co-owners Kati Fahrney and Ron Turigliatto offer a casual menu full of high-quality, all-natural ingredients that fit everything you love about sushi and burritos right in your hand. The Swedish Fish layers Scandinavian cured salmon, yuzu dill slaw, Persian cucumbers and avocado for a fresh flavor explosion. Another favorite, the OG Fire, features your choice of spicy tuna or salmon alongside tempura crunch, masago, shallots, jalapeño and piquant namesake sauce; Persian cucumbers and avocado soothe your tongue from the sauce’s kick. All burrito rolls come with sticky rice wrapped in nori or can be made into poké bowls, and all items can be modified for vegetarians. 9 SOUTH VANDEVENTER DINE-IN, TAKEOUT OR DELIVERY MON-SAT 11AM-9PM NOT YOUR AVERAGE SUSHI SPOT

CRAWLING CRAB

314.328.3421 6730 PAGE AVE ST. LOUIS, MO 63138

Looking for the best seafood in St. Louis or the Midwest—don’t fret, Crawling Crab is now open! Here, we drizzle everything in garlic butter and then sprinkle on our magic dust! In a fun and casual atmosphere, you’ll enjoy fresh, hand-cleaned seafood ranging from lobster, shrimp, and of course crab legs. All platters come with corn sausage potatoes and Cajun boiled eggs and shrimp that won’t disappoint. For those pasta and veggie lovers out there, there is a spot for you here too! Enjoy our double dipped garlic butter rolls along side with your meal. And if you are still not stuffed, we have homemade dessert on the menu too! Have a big family coming in or an event coming up? Enjoy our family meal options and our beautiful seafood tables. As we continue to grow, we are excited to add new items to the menu, get creative with new recipes, and give back within the community. Join us on the first Tuesday of the month for $20 platter specials, and $5 appetizers on every Wild Wednesday! Open Tuesday thru Saturday 4pm-10pm, currently located in the 24:1 Coffee House Cafe.

CARNIVORE STL CARNIVORE-STL.COM

314.449.6328 5257 SHAW AVE, ST. LOUIS, MO 63110

Carnivore fills a nearly 4,000-square-foot space on The Hill with a dining area, bar lounge, and adjoining outdoor patio gracefully guarded by a bronze steer at the main entrance. Always embracing change, Joe and Kerri Smugala, with business partners Chef Mike and Casie Lutker, launched Carnivore STL this summer. As the Hill’s only steakhouse, Carnivore offers a homestyle menu at budget-friendly prices appealing to the neighborhood’s many families. Steak, of course, takes center stage with juicy filet mignon, top sirloin, strip steak and ribeye leading the menu. Customize any of the succulent meats with sautéed mushrooms, grilled shrimp, or melted housemade butters, such as garlic-and-herb and red wine reduction, on top of the flame-seared steak. Other main dishes include a thick-cut pork steak (smoked at J. Smugs) and the grilled chicken with capers and a white wine-lemon-butter sauce. St. Louis Italian traditions get their due in the Baked Ravioli, smothered in provel cheese and house ragu, and in the Arancini, risotto balls stuffed with provel and swimming in a pool of meat sauce. With an exciting new brunch menu debuting for Saturday and Sunday, Carnivore should be everyone’s new taste of the Hill.

CRISPY EDGE CRISPYEDGE.COM

314.310.3343 4168 JUNIATA STREET ST. LOUIS, MO 63116

What began in 2013 as a passion project in the founder’s kitchen has now grown into a retail and wholesale potsticker manufacturing facility located right in the heart of Tower Grove South. Crispy Edge believes that potstickers are the perfect vehicle to explore authentic global flavors from breakfast to dessert: handheld, wrapped in dough, and CRISPY! The restaurant features indoor and dog-friendly outdoor seating, private dining room, and a café lounge. The full bar and hot beverage program highlight local specialty coffee, cocktails, and beers. All products are made in-house and sourced from the finest ingredients. From Ordinary to Extraordinary - Crispy Edge is a global community for those who want something fun, tasty, social and exciting to eat.

THE KICKIN’ CRAB THEKICKINCRAB.COM

314.888.8688 9616 OLIVE BLVD OLIVETTE, MO 63132

The Kickin’ Crab has joined the Crustacean Nation and is here to satisfy your taste sensation. The Kickin’ Crab is a fun-filled Cajun seafood destination where patrons come and escape into flavor paradise. Offering a distinct ambiance to enjoy the finest and freshest Cajun seafood around! Kickin’ Crab is a great place to hang out with friends, family, or both! No plates... no utensils! Just your hands, a bib, and our unique and absolutely irresistible KC sauces - a combination of spicy, sweet and tangy flavors - over freshly prepared seafood that will give your taste buds satisfaction unlike anything else you’ve ever tasted. Join us and partake in the festivities and quality of seafood that The Kickin’ Crab has to offer.