Short Orders

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[SIDE DISH]

The Sweet Life

St. Louis’ Erica King is living the dream with her Shorty Mix Gourmet Cookies brand

Written by CHERYL BAEHR

Erica King was walking around Chicago, soaking in its summertime splendor and eating some Garrett popcorn, when she realized just how much she was going to miss her adopted city.

Preparing for a move back home to St. Louis, King began taking stock of everything she’d miss: the gorgeous months of June, July and August, the scenery, and the sweet and salty taste of that popcorn. She was trying to think of any other food that perfectly capt red that a or when it hit her and then it struck her: Why not create one herself?

“I was walking around with my friend thinking, ‘Oh man, what else is there that has this magical cheddar cara el a or can indulge in when I leave?’” King recalls. “I couldn’t think of anything. Popcorn has this mix of cra y di erent a ors t then thought, ‘What if it was in a cookie?’ My friend looked at me like I was crazy. I’m always that one in the friend group who has those crazy ideas, but sometimes, those crazy ideas actually work.”

When she looks back, King now sees that the path to starting Shorty Mix Gourmet Cookies (www.smgcookies.com) started way before that revelation in Chicago in 2014. Growing up, she was incredibly close to her grandmother, and has fond memories of being at her house, smelling the incredible aromas coming out of her kitchen as she tried to snatch Danish butter shortbread cookies out of their characteristic blue tins — though, she says, they were s ally filled with spare change or sewing materials and not the sweet treats she was hoping for.

Those memories stuck with her even as she went off to college and began her career in marketing. Baking was always a source of stress relief for her, and she found herself coming back to the kitchen when she needed to decompress. Those culinary skills were especially useful once she moved back to St. Louis and found herself without a job and living back home with her mother. Unsure of what the next step was, she found an old cookbook her grandmother gave her and took it as a sign that she should put her energy into baking. Using her mom, brother and neighbors as taste-testers, she began doing research and development on what would become her cookie brand.

“At the time, baking was my sa ing grace ing says figured that I had this idea, so now I needed to do the actual science of it. I began doing testing and research and was a perfectionist about the products. My mom and brother were tasters, but I also went around my neighborhood, knocking on people’s doors — I was this strange person asking them if they wanted to try my cookies, but they loved it.”

Though King was passionate about baking, she still was not quite ready to go all in, so she put her cookie business on the back burner. She went back into the ar eting field where she worked for a couple of years in a job that she enjoyed, even as she could not shake the feeling that something was missing. About two years in, that feeling became too strong for her to ignore.

“I felt so unhappy and felt that there had to be something more,” King says. “I started traveling again — I used every work vacation to go somewhere. Looking back, I see that I was in search of something and wanted something better in life. About a year later, I found my grandma’s cookbook again, and that’s when I said, ‘OK Grandma. I hear you. I’m going to do it.’”

King quit her marketing job and dedicated herself fully to setting up Shorty Mix Gourmet Cookies. Drawing upon both her grandma’s in ence and her own e periences acquired through traveling the world, King concocted several shortbread-based recipes and began building her brand. With the help of local startup incubator Square One’s business bootcamp and local commissary and food incubator STL Foodworks, King got the entrepreneurial know-how and guidance to get her business up and running. Now, with several farmers’ markets and pop-ups under her elt she is confident she s living out her life’s calling: bringing others joy through delicious food and, in turn, bringing herself joy by doing what she loves.

“I am the kind of person that just likes so many different things — the word ‘cosmopolitan’ hits

Erica King of Shorty Mix Gourmet Cookies is the kind of neighbor everybody wishes for. | ANDY PAULISSEN

ERICA KING

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home because I just like so many different things,” King says. “For a long time it was hard, because people would say that I had to pick one thing to do with my life, and I struggled with that for the longest time. With these cookies, no one is going to make me pick just one thing. I’m going to create 500 dif erent a ors not really t li e ha ing that as a goal eca se it gi es e a place to start

King took a break from making her signature shortbreads to share her thoughts on the state of the t o is ood and e erage co nity her passion or tra el and why her grandmother remains a part o e erything she does

What is one thing people don’t know about you that you wish they did?

When I go out and sell my cookies, I feel the pride of my grandmother and ancestors. My grandmother, Earlie B. King, retired from Lambert St. Louis International irport as a ight ood coo and was celebrated for her extraordinary talent. She also often ga e her last to help e tra el to new places that sparked my cookie business concept. Her passion, s ill and lo e or ood li es in e I feel empowered by our country’s greatest Black cooks and bakers to do what I do.

What daily ritual is non-negotiable for you?

Morning meditation with essential oils and burning sage. My day just doesn’t feel as focused or pleasurable without it.

Who is your St. Louis food crush? o any ceano o thern and Sauce on the Side.

Which ingredient is most representative of your personality?

Spice, because there are so any arieties and they add s ch old a or

If you weren’t working in this industry, what would you be doing?

I would be a singer, touring the world with a band.

As a hospitality professional, what do people need to know about what you are going through?

Right now is tough, but it feels optimum. I’m used to tough conditions. I was a college graduate during the recession. I’m the older millennial that seems to meet life as e erything shi ts and changes so fast. As a hospitality startup looking to grow, I’m not allowing ysel to o e as ast as the rest of the world in order to be trendy. t s satis ying to o e at y own pace, because my goal is to learn from today for the future. I’m looking to bring my business to people in a way that’s here to stay. People need to know that not all o s are riding a wa e we are serious about what we do and want to be a part of the community.

What do you miss most about the way you did your job before COVID-19?

I miss people! I miss being able to freely talk to them without a mask, shake their hands and hug them. I’m a touchy-feely person. Doing pop ups was great for me when first started eca se got to watch people ta e that first ite o y coo ies was ne er le t disappointed as I got to experience that with them, and neither were they.

What do you miss least?

Meetings! I do not miss getting in ited to tons o in person eetings. Meeting from home suits me st fine

What have you been stress-eating/drinking lately?

My stress-eating includes anything fast and drinking all the sugary drinks that come with the combos. Most times I cook my own meals, but when I’m stressed I just want to eat something quick. don t ha e to thin a o t it or plan for it, I just go and get it. The only problem is, I always feel bad afterwards ... but it seems I forget that eeling the ery ne t ti e

What do you think the biggest change to the hospitality industry will be once people are allowed to return to normal activity levels? elie e the iggest changes will be the regulation around what it looks like to operate, and in turn the costs and trade-offs with being co pliant i iting contact le els and touch points with people will still be a part of the experience. ptions or how we e change money for products is one aspect of the new process that shows how technology continues to shape our t re e all ha e to e tech sa y and pro ide ltiple ser ice structures for people to engage with us in the ways they are most comfortable and safe with. It will require constant decision-making considering many factors.

What is one thing that gives you hope during this crisis? on ersations aro nd s pporting small, local, Black and minority sinesses gi e e hope lowly t s rely these con ersations are leading to changed eha iors and identities. It’s refreshing to see people eel li e they ha e options on where they can buy, and to see more people like myself feel empowered to join the enterprise. The cherry on top is seeing big business partner with us. n

[FOOD NEWS]

Boardwalk Waffles Launches Brunch Service

Written by CHERYL BAEHR

Even before he opened the doors to his original location of Boardwalk Waffles & Ice Cream (7376 Manchester Road, Maplewood; 314449-1209) in 2017, Eric Moore dreamed that brunch service would be part of his business model. Now, he’s making that vision a reality at his Maplewood restaurant with the launch of weekend brunch, which kicked off this past Saturday.

“This is the third piece of the trifecta — brunch, live music and liquor,” says Moore. “It was always in my head to put these together with the single concept of the waffle once I got a bigger space. Now that we have it, this is the final piece of the puzzle.”

The newly launched brunch offerings at Boardwalk Waffles & Ice Cream include savory dishes, such as the Spicy Mexican, a jalapeño cornbread waffle topped with cheddar cheese, chorizo, cilantro and spicy maple syrup, as well as the Bacon Cheddar Chive waffle paired with maple syrup. Sweet selections will also be available, including the Chunky Monkey, which pairs a chocolate waffle with bananas, chocolate syrup, walnuts and either maple syrup or a bananaliquor-infused syrup (adults only!). Another grown-up dish consists of a waffle topped with bourbon-soaked apples and walnuts.

In addition to the food, guests can enjoy cocktails and live music during brunch at Boardwalk Waffles & Ice Cream. Boozy options include bottomless mimosas, liquor-infused shakes, Irish coffee and bloody marys. Brunch service will run Saturdays and Sundays from 7 a.m. until noon.

“The shop itself is whimsical — you walk in and it’s like nowhere else in town,” Moore says. “We’re staying with that idea of fun with our brunch. When you come here, you know what you are getting.”

The restaurant’s fast-casual setup will remain in place during brunch. Moore says that, though he wants people to enjoy themselves and take in the atmosphere, he believes that the counter-service setup and moving line will prevent people from congregating, something he is concerned about because of the pandemic. Though he anticipates people will have to wait in a modest line to have their orders taken, it will not be the twohour wait at a host desk as is typical of weekend breakfasts and brunches.

It’s been a busy year for Moore, who has been expanding the Boardwalk Waffles & Ice Cream brand to include additional locations in Grand Center and south county. Though he has not formalized any arrangements, Moore is also considering franchising the brand thanks to several inquiries from interested parties in Florida and New Jersey. In the meantime, he’s taking things one step at a time in the hopes that what he creates now with brunch service will be a template for the brand moving forward.

“Everybody raves about our waffles, so we figure why not take it up a notch and expand on that to fill a void on weekends,” Moore says. “People want to go out for brunch again, and the idea that you can get in and out at a reasonable pace for a reasonable price is what we want to offer.” n

Boardwalk Wa es & Ice Cream’s weekend brunch service will feature a variety of sweet and savory o erings. | SAM REED CREATIVE

“Hangar gives me creative freedom,” says executive chef Dakota Kolb. | ANDY PAULISSEN

[FOOD NEWS]

Hanging It Up

Dakota Kolb is leaving Quincy Street Bistro for Hangar Kitchen & Bar

Written by CHERYL BAEHR

Big changes are underway at Quincy Street Bistro (6931 Gravois Avenue, 314-6962269): Executive chef Dakota Kolb is leaving the Princeton Heights restaurant to take on the role of executive chef of Hangar Kitchen + Bar (9528 Manchester Road, Rock Hill; 314-473-1221). Kolb’s last service at Quincy Street will be April 17.

Citing the departure as a “career move,” Kolb says he is excited for the opportunities that will be afforded him at Hangar. The restaurant, which opened in Rock Hill last August, features an eclectic menu that he thinks will give him a great jumping-off point to be creative.

“Hangar gives me creative freedom,” says Kolb. “This is a passion project for them [owners Chris and Courtney Sedlak], and their menu is set up like a walk down memory lane of the favorite eateries they’ve been at. That gives me the creative freedom to cook an interesting sandwich and then whip up a short-rib dish. The sandbox I’m playing in isn’t so small. I can do whatever I please.”

Kolb joined the Quincy Street Bistro team most recently this past fall, working with its new owner, Todd Tiefenauer, to breathe new life into the storied space. The original Quincy Street, which ran from 2011 until 2018, was a popular and acclaimed neighborhood staple, thanks to the culinary leadership of James eard ward se ifinalist che Rick Lewis. Kolb worked at the restaurant’s original incarnation for four years, which is why Tiefenauer sought his expertise, even as he works hard to put his own stamp on the place.

“Quincy is doing great,” Kolb says. “I came here for the sole fact that this building reopened and this is where I spent so many years. I wanted to see it through and make sure it opened under the right mentality.”

According to Kolb, the Hangar job was in the works for a while — even before he joined Tiefenauer at Quincy Street. Last year, after moving back to St. Louis from ansas ity ol rie y wor ed for the Sedlaks in their commissary kitchen. Though the gig didn’t work out at the time, the Sedlaks kept Kolb on their radar and recently reached out to him to see if he’d be interested in joining them at Hangar. After several conversations about the menu and their vision for the restaurant, he decided to take the leap.

“It checks off a lot of boxes,” says Kolb. “I think Todd has a good vision at Quincy Street, but at the same time, I would like to pursue something with a little more ability to y n