Short Orders

[SIDE DISH]

Busy as a Bee

Mike Chadwick’s passion for breakfast food fuels Honey Bee’s Biscuits + Good Eats

Written by CHERYL BAEHR

Mike Shadwick never thought he could make a career out of the food business, so he never tried. Though cooking was his passion, he instead pursued a career in sales, where he worked for ten-plus years before leaving his job to explore computer science. Unemployed for about a year and a half, he was considering his next move when a conversation with his wife would change his course.

“My wife and I were just talking one day when she told me, ‘Why don’t you just take the next job you are offered in food?’” Shadwick says. “We knew people in restaurants, so she told me I should just hit them up and work in the kitchen. She told me it didn’t matter wherever that was — that I should just start somewhere. The next day, my sister, who worked at Imo’s in the Central West End, told me they were hiring delivery drivers. Here I was, going from executive to an Imo’s driver, but I figured, why not?”

Looking back at his road to

Honey Bee’s Biscuits + Good Eats

(www.honeybeesbg.com), the food truck he owns with his wife, Meredith, Shadwick realizes it was only a matter of time before he landed in the food business. For as long as he can remember, cooking has been a part of his life, dating back to one of his earliest memories of making breakfast for his mom. Of course, as a three-year-old, what he considered breakfast wasn’t exactly edible.

“I snuck down to the kitchen one morning, cracked eggs into a bowl and scraped a spoonful of margarine into it and thought I had made her eggs,” Shadwick laughs. “For me, it’s always been about breakfast food.”

Even though he always dreamed of what it would be like to cook professionally, he didn’t think he could make it in the business. It wasn’t until that first shift at Imo’s that he saw he could actually thrive in the industry. There, he hustled and earned a reputation as a valuable employee, and he moved up the ranks, gaining the respect of Nick Imo, who worked alongside him in the restaurant.

Early last year, a friend who was a server at Winslow’s Table passed on his information to owners Michael and Tara Gallina, who were looking for kitchen help. Though he’d never cooked on a line, Shadwick went into the interview with a good attitude and a willingness to learn. Impressed, the Gallinas brought him on for his first shift on February 27, 2020. In less than a month, the restaurant was closed because of the COVID-19 pandemic.

Though Shadwick’s experience with Winslow’s Table was brief, it was formative and gave him the confidence to see himself as a restaurant professional. He went back to Imo’s with the intention of getting into management, but he still couldn’t shake the feeling that he wanted to do something else. In talking to his wife, it became clear that he was meant to do breakfast food, especially biscuits, and that it was time for him to finally follow his dreams.

Together, the Shadwicks launched Honey Bee’s at the Kirkwood Farmers’ Market last June, not knowing what to expect. After selling about 200 biscuits in their first outing, they reali ed they were onto something and quickly started thinking through how they could expand their idea beyond the market stall. Within three weeks of their inaugural outing, they had purchased a food truck and started working on expanding their vision.

The Honey Bee’s truck launched this February, and Shadwick continues to be thrilled with the response. The brand continues to have a loyal following at the Kirkwood Farmers’ Market, where it parks on Saturdays and Sundays, and they have also started doing private and corporate events. All the while, Shadwick continues to push himself, spending his free time researching new techniques and recipes and developing his skills — and though he’s as busy as he ever was, he wouldn’t have it any other way.

“I feel like I landed where I was meant to be,” Shadwick says. “We had this crazy catering gig a few weeks ago where we did food for three separate shifts of employees at this business and logged 24 hours in two days. Even the next day, I was able to wake right up and hop into the kitchen, ready to go. It’s just so much fun, and this has been incredibly rewarding. We’re fortunate.”

Shadwick took a moment away from the biscuits to share his thoughts on the St. Louis food and beverage community, the joys of waking up early and another special project he and his wife have cooking at the Kirkwood Farmers’ Market.

What is one thing not many people know about you? I’m really creative and come up with many of our rhymes and names for our various menu items. I always enjoyed going places that had different themed specials and fun names and had more of a creative approach to their menu. I try to make our food more fun by using my creativity to give customers that same experience.

What daily ritual is non-negotiable for you? Waking up early. I love to wake up before the sun rises because I feel like I have privacy to focus on in-

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Mike Shadwick found the courage to follow his food dreams with Honey Bee’s Biscuits + Good Eats. | ANDY PAULISSEN

Happy Returns

Tower Grove Farmers’ Market resumes operation with a welcome new normal

Written by CHERYL BAEHR

If there’s any evidence more obvious than your itching eyes and throat that spring has sprung, it’s the return of the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market (tgfarmersmarket.com). The weekend of April 10 saw the kickoff of the beloved market, which will run every Saturday in Tower Grove Park from 8 a.m until 12:30 p.m. through November 6.

This year marks not only the sixteenth season of the market, it also represents a return to normal — albeit a new one — for the event. After a delayed start and significant adjustments in logistics last season due to COVID-19, Tower Grove Farmers’ Market is ready to return in earnest, having spent the second half of last season nailing down health protocols that make for a safe experience for both vendors and guests.

“This feels very springlike,” says Dee Ryan, director of operations for the market. “There is this sort of resurrection or rejuvenation with all of the farmers coming back. It’s really lovely.”

According to Ryan, she and the team have spent the past year figuring out how to safely conduct the markets, and they feel comfortable that they have nailed it down. Tents will be spaced two to three feet apart, guests are required to wear masks and social distance, vendors will only accept credit and debit (with only a few outliers), and the markets will take up additional space in the park, which will allow for people to be more spread apart.

The extra space is welcome, not only because of COVID-19 protocols, but because this will be the biggest market season to date. A total of 150 vendors have signed up to participate this year. Though Ryan admits there may be some no-shows due to potential inclement weather, she was expecting a great turnout.

In addition to making the events safe for everyone involved, the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market team is especially focused on making the markets more inclusive. As Ryan explains, she and her colleagues are committed to supporting more BIPOC vendors as part of the market’s overall mission.

“The first few years, it was a bunch of old, white farmers,” Ryan says. “We want it to look different. We need it to look different. That’s what we believe in and what we are pushing for.”

The bullish outlook on this season’s Tower Grove Farmers’ Market is welcome after the difficult last year many of the vendors experienced. Though the market opened in May of last year, turnout was very low, which forced the team to get creative to support the vendors.

“We started the delivery boxes last year when Pat [Patrick Horine, the market cofounder] realized that we needed to do something because people were not comfortable coming out,” Ryan says. “These farmers live and die on Tower Grove Farmers’ Market, so if only 30 to 50 percent of the normal patronage was coming through, they would really fall apart.”

The market delivery boxes, inspired by the uptick in grocery delivery platforms like Instacart, did more than provide a lifeline to farmers; it allowed them to thrive. Thanks to a partnership between the market and local delivery service Eat Here St. Louis, Tower Grove Farmers’ Market was able to bring the market experience to people in their homes — something so successful, they plan to keep it going.

For those who are comfortable enjoying the market experience in person, Ryan says to expect the feel to be like a marriage of last summer and markets past. In addition to the vendors, food trucks will be located on the other side of Center Cross Drive and a row of adult beverage offerings, dubbed “Booze Alley,” will add to the festive — and, Ryan stresses, safe — vibes.

“This is such a community event,” says Ryan. “The fact that our community comes with masks on, practicing social distancing and respecting everyone is really magical.” n

MIKE SHADWICK

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dividual tasks that require more depth of concentration. I’m usually awake by 3:30 or 4 a.m.

If you could have any superpower, what would it be? To be able to control time.

What is the most positive thing in food, wine or cocktails that you’ve noticed in St. Louis over the past year? The St. Louis food community has been really welcoming and supportive. St. Louis has a very competitive food scene, and it’s an honor to see our customers and supporters continue to show up for us.

Who is your St. Louis food crush? There are so many, but a few of my favorites are Mac’s Local Eats, Balkan Treat Box, Sando Shack, Beffa’s and Imo’s.

Who’s the one person to watch right now in the St. Louis dining scene? Tropical Moose Shaved Ice. My wife and I just bought this awesome Kirkwood staple, and we’re going to make some fun additions to their current menu.

Which ingredient is most representative of your personality?

e 2021 Tower Grove Farmers’ Market season is now in full swing. | DOYLE MURPHY

Thyme is my favorite herb and avor. It represents my personality well because it works well with so many different dishes and avor profiles.

If you weren’t working in the restaurant business, what would you be doing?

I found the restaurant industry doing what I love to do, which is cooking. So if this doesn’t work out, maybe I would make a job out of something else I love to do like video games or playing with my dog. If i hadn’t found this industry, I’d probably still be in sales.

Name an ingredient never allowed in your restaurant. 2 percent milk.

What is your after work hangout? Home with our dogs. And if I’m not cooking food, I’m eating it. We love to check out new local spots.

What’s your food or beverage guilty pleasure? efinitely s’mores, or reos with peanut butter.

What would be your last meal on earth? Pizza from Imo’s (chicken, bacon, jalapeno, extra cheese, light sauce, sweet and tangy as the sauce, well done), a Mac’s cheeseburger and French fries, and a s’more for dessert. n

United We Brunch Is Back

Written by RFT STAFF

Have you missed brunch? Yeah, us too.

Thankfully, the Riverfront Times’ United We Brunch is coming back, retooled with an all-star list of more than twenty of St. Louis’ favorite bars and restaurants, including Bogart’s Smokehouse, the Banh Mi Shop, Taco Circus and Yolklore. And while it wouldn’t be brunch without bottomless bloody marys and mimosas, there will also be Irish coffee, bellinis, screwdrivers and craft beer on offer.

To celebrate United We Brunch’s sixth year, all those attending will enjoy VIP status, including a gift bag and commemorative glass. Hosted in the Central West End’s historic Chase Park Plaza Hotel (212 Kingshighway Boulevard, 314-633-3000), the party runs from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. this Saturday, April 24.

COVID-19 safety protocols will be in place with attendance capped at 20 percent of capacity, masks (we’ve got them if you need them) required unless eating or drinking, temperature checks, socially distanced tables and plexiglass shields separating vendors.

Tickets are $50 with a portion of the proceeds going to benefit Stray Rescue. You can buy tickets and learn more at rftbrunch.com. n

How can you not smile while brunching? | THEO WELLING

Gather, a neighborhood cafe, opens this May in McKinley Heights. | BREA YOIUNGBLOOD

[SLIDES]

Play With Your Food

Urban Fort play cafe expands to include Gather, focused on food and co ee

Written by CHERYL BAEHR

If the COVID-19 pandemic made one thing crystal clear for Urban Fort (1854 Russell Boulevard, 314-3764235) co-owners Monica Croke and Megan King-Popp, it was that the overwhelming majority of their business came from the customers who patronized their play area. Even though they prided themselves in serving excellent coffee, tea pastries and sandwiches, they had a hard time getting people to see them as anything but a family play place that happened to have some food and drinks.

That’s about to change with the launch of their new cafe, Gather, which will open adjacent to Urban Fort on May 6. The new spot is meant to both service Urban Fort’s play area and be a standalone spot for people who are simply interested in grabbing a cup of coffee and something to eat — something King-Popp feels was difficult previously.

“The majority of people who would pass by thought we were a daycare and didn’t know we were also a cafe,” King-Popp says. “For those who did come in, the atmosphere wasn’t conducive for people who don’t understand five-year-olds. People tried to support us at first, but it just wasn’t for them.”

To create Gather, Croke and King-Popp built a soundproof wall that now divides the building into two distinct spaces. Urban Fort remains on one side of the wall, with Gather taking up the other. Guests of the play cafe can order from Gather, while those who are not interested in being on the play side will get a coffee-shop experience, sans kids.

As King-Popp explains, the idea to create a distinct coffee-shop concept occurred not long after Urban Fort opened in 2017. Though she and Croke envisioned the place as serving both those with and without kids, it became quickly apparent that, being the only play cafe at the time in St. Louis, the kid-friendly space was the major draw.

When the COVID-19 pandemic hit, she and Croke watched as other restaurants and coffee shops were able to turn to carry-out to sustain their business. Because they were not associated with their food and beverage operation, they were unable to make a go at that transition — so they decided to make a change.

“We pooled our resources and decided to make the cafe something new,” King-Popp says. “People didn’t know that we had food, so we really had to rethink things. We decided that we were just going to view 2020 as the year we changed our business model.”

Though the change is significant, King-Popp also insists that much of the essential character of their business remains the same. For those who patronized Urban Fort for its play cafe, the vibe should feel consistent with what they’ve become used to. There will just be a more efficient use of space.

King-Popp is confident that, once people know about what Gather has to offer, it will become a community spot for everyone. She remains confident in the quality of their products — coffee from the Living Room, espresso from Blueprint, tea from Big Heart Tea Company, homemade pastries and lunch items — and feels excited that the food and beverage side of the business will be more visible.

“We see ourselves as approachable,” King-Popp says. “Our brand, as well as our food, is welcoming to everyone, whether you are a family who’s been coming in or a new customer. We’re so excited about this opportunity and have gotten nothing but positive energy from the neighborhood.” n