Quesabirrias are a glorious combination of pot roast, quesadilla and French dip. | MABEL SUEN
TACOS LA JEFE Continued from pg 23
ten hours with ancho and guajillo chiles, onions and other spices. The result is the most flavorful pot roast you’ve ever had, served with vibrant red-orange chili-soaked tortillas, chopped white onions, cilantro and hot sauce so that you can make your own tacos — if you can stop yourself from ust palming heaps of the succulent meat into your mouth as you try to stuff it into the tortilla. The birria itself is positively maestic, but the reason Tacos La efa has caught fire is because of its quesabirria, a glorious concoction that’s like a cross between pot roast, a cheese quesadilla and a French dip. Amescua’s birria is placed on an open face cheese topped tortilla and griddled, then folded in half. The taco is then dipped in the birria’s cooking liquid and griddled again so it crisps up this has the effect of marrying the molten cheese encrusted edges with the beefy particles in the liquid. It’s outrageously good, but the pièce de résistance is the cup of the coo ing us that comes alongside the quesabirria. Guests are encouraged to dunk the beefy cheese wonder in the savory broth and enjoy how it soaks into every crevice. This is a uice up to your elbows sort of endeavor, and there’s no way you will avoid getting messy (don’t wear a white silk blouse as foolishly did , but even if you do, you will wear that us as a badge of honor. Tacos La efa serves nothing but the birria tacos and quesabirria. It doesn’t have to. There is nothing
Heriberta Amescua, la jefa original, is always present at the restaurant. | MABEL SUEN more you could want from such a magical place. That Amescua’s family has been able to work through their grief and eep it going so that we can experience it makes dining at Tacos La efa an absolute honor. f you as them, though, they say the honor is theirs. “To us, she was a warrior,” say her kids Carmen, Ricardo, Andrea, Ernesto, Elizabeth, Heriberto, Liliana and Marth. “She showed us to never give up and that it’s never too late to follow your dreams. e will eep her dream alive, and we will live one day at a time. e love you and miss you, mother.”
Tacos La Jefa Birria taco ............................................. $3.50 Large quesabirria ................................ $10.50 Birria plate ............................................... $15 • Carry-out and dine-in
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