13 minute read
Short Orders
22
SHORT ORDERS
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[ST. LOUIS STANDARDS]
The Thai That Binds
King & I is more than an awardwinning restaurant, it’s a local institution
Written by CHERYL BAEHR
Shayn Prapaisilp considers the fact that his family’s restaurant, King & I, even exists to be a small miracle.
Hailing from two far-apart regions of Thailand, Prapaisilp’s parents, Suchin and Sue, were an unlikely pairing. When they met, she was a psychology student at the University of Illinois at Chicago who had just moved to the U.S. from the north of Thailand. His father had immigrated to St. Louis from the far-south of that country and was working at his brother’s grocery store, Jay Asian Food Corp., on South Grand. Back then, getting back to Southeast Asia wasn’t as easy as searching for flights on Kayak it involved a significant amount of expertise and legwork — which Sue and her sister were willing to do through a boutique travel company they started as a college side-hustle. Suchin would regularly use Sue’s company to go back to Thailand to see his family. Pretty soon, their professional relationship developed into love, marriage and a move to St. Louis — despite Sue’s protests — to start a life together.
That life did not necessarily involve a restaurant. According to Prapaisilp, his father was originally intent on going all-in with the grocery business, and he found success alongside his brother, expanding Jay Asian to include a multitude of global goods and renaming the business Jay International Food Corp. However, Suchin’s entrepreneurial spirit told him that there was an opportunity for something more.
“I think at the time, in the early ‘80s, folks were familiar enough with Chinese cuisine because people had either served in the military or traveled to Asia, but Thai food was brand spanking new in St. Louis,” Prapaisilp says. “My dad was selling groceries, but he realized that no one was really doing that kind of food. It was nostalgia for him. He was eating Thai food at home but felt that St. Louis could really come to like it.”
In 1983, Suchin and Sue took the leap and opened King & I in its original location on the corner of South Grand Boulevard and Humphrey Street. As Prapaisilp explains, his father felt that he had to ease people into the idea of Thai cuisine, so he started out with a menu that was 50 percent Thai and 50 percent Chinese as a way to mitigate risk.
“Back then, Asian food was considered this mass cuisine with soy sauce,” Prapaisilp says. “He worried that if he opened a restaurant with all Thai food it might turn people off. It’s funny to think that pad Thai was avant-garde in the ‘80s.”
The Prapaisilp family’s gamble paid off. It didn’t take long for them to develop a robust following, and eventually, King & I became so popular that the family moved it to its current location across the street on South Grand Boulevard. Though he was just a kid, Prapaisilp remembers the move and looks back fondly at growing up in the restaurant and having that bustling strip of south city as his playground. Working alongside his parents, grandfather, aunts and uncles, he and his family pulled together to offer a piece of themselves to the St. Louis dining community — and still do to this day.
“We have a lot of the same staff members who have been with us for years,” Prapaisilp says. “Our
ai cuisine was once not even an option in St. Louis, and we have the King & I to thank for making the introduction. | ANDY PAULISSEN
King & I has been serving St. Louis diners authentic ai cuisine since 1983. | ANDY PAULISSEN
Shayn Prapaisilp parents introduced St. Louis to ai cuisine. | ANDY PAULISSEN
current chef learned from my aunt, so what’s neat is that there is a lot of continuity. It’s not just that we’ve been around for so long, but that we are consistent.”
That consistency has paid off not only in a loyal customer base but also in recognition from the Thai government. For the past five years, King I has received the prestigious Thai SELECT award, an honor from the Royal Thai Government that recognizes authenticity in Thai cuisine served in the United States. The restaurant was the only one in the entire state of Missouri to receive such an honor.
As thrilling as the recognition from the Thai government is, what keeps the Prapaisilp family motivated are the love and loyalty of its customers throughout all of its brands. In addition to King & I, the family still runs Jay International Food Corp. as well as Global Foods, United Provisions, Oishi Sushi, Oishi Steakhouse and Prapaisilp’s venture, Chao Baan. Through it all, the family has been humbled that they have been able to become such a part of people’s lives — something Prapaisilp is confident they will continue to do for years to come.
“What’s great for us and keeps us going is that we’ve seen folks come in when they started dating, got married and had kids,” Prapaisilp says. “Now they are coming in with their grandkids. There are a lot of iconic St. Louis restaurants, and we like to consider ourselves one of those. Thirty years is tough for any business, but people keep coming back. We feel lucky to not just be nourishing St. Louis but to be a part of fond memories in people’s lives.” n
e King & I remains a cornerstone on South Grand Boulevard. | ANDY PAULISSEN
[COMEBACKS]
Taqueria Durango Makes Its Triumphant Return
Written by CHERYL BAEHR
In perhaps the clearest sign that the world is beginning to make sense again, St. Louis taco lovers are once again able to enjoy a beloved institution: Taqueria Durango (10238 Page Avenue, Overland) has reopened its doors as of this past Saturday.
The Overland restaurant, owned by the Lopez family, had been closed since March 5, 2020, after a fire that started in frying oil tore through the building and gutted the entire structure. Though no one was injured in the blaze, the incident shuttered the restaurant and called into question whether or not it would ever again serve its excellent Mexican food.
“The day of the fire, I wasn’t there, but my sister was, even though she was off that day,” recalls Angelica Lopez, daughter of owners Miguel and Isidora Lopez. “My aunt called and said there was a fire and to call the fire department. I was very confused and didn’t know what was happening, but I called the fire department and they said they were already on their way. I left my house in Maryland Heights and drove straight there — I didn’t even change clothes and was in my flip-flops. My sister called about three minutes after I left and told me it was all gone. When I got there, just seeing my mom was very heartbreaking.”
As Angelica explains, the restaurant was a total loss. However, there was never any doubt that the family would rebuild in the same spot. Though many suggested that they set up their restaurant in their banquet center located in the same strip mall, they never considered it — it just didn’t have the right feel, and it was important to the family to recreate what had been destroyed.
The Lopez family would not endure their loss alone. After news of the fire broke, several prominent chefs and restaurant owners rallied around the family, organizing fundraisers, including a GoFundMe, that raised funds to help them rebuild. Those efforts, together with an outpouring of support from friends and the community, have been what’s sustained the Lopez family throughout the tragedy.
“It was super amazing; we felt, and still feel, very loved,” Angelica says. “We’ve had people come in and calls and text messages from people we never would have imagined. It’s beyond what we expected and we are so grateful and happy to feel loved and cared for.”
Even in the midst of personal loss, the Lopez family made sure to pay that goodwill forward. Though the restaurant was shuttered, they used their adjacent market and banquet hall as a food distribution center to help those in need during the pandemic. The effort, a partnership with the organization STL Juntos, provided meals, diapers and other necessities to people struggling to make ends meet. Additionally, the restaurant’s parking lot is being used as a vaccine site to help get doses to members of the community. As Angelica explains, these efforts are the least they could do to return the love showed to them.
As for the reopening, Angelica is thrilled, but she also expresses nervousness. Because the fire happened roughly a week before the pandemic turned the world upside down, the family has never had to run a restaurant under these changed circumstances. She knows that takeout and curbside will be huge parts of their business, and she says the family is ready to navigate the changed landscape, even if it may take some time to adjust to it. However, regardless of the changes, she’s just happy that they have brought their restaurant back to life and are ready to share their joy with the world.
“We just really appreciate how much people love our food,” Angelica says. “We can’t wait to celebrate that.” n
George Lopez’s Tacos Come to St. Louis
Written by CHERYL BAEHR
George Lopez may be better known for his comedic chops than his culinary prowess, but that may be about to change. Last week, the actor and comedian launched his delivery-only taqueria, George Lopez Tacos, through a partnership with the virtual restaurant company Nextbite, promising a “badass” taco experience for cities nationwide, including St. Louis.
“My street tacos are all about helping you rompe your routines and dinner expectations with a badass street taco experience that tastes damn delicious,” Lopez says in a release announcing the launch. “With Nextbite’s delivery-only concept, we are helping restaurants thrive by adding a delicious delivery-only menu item that allows them to get a little bit of George in the kitchen and bring more revenue into their operation.”
George Lopez Tacos is the latest ghost-kitchen brand to partner with Nextbite, a Denver-based company that pairs delivery-only food concepts with both kitchen space and delivery platforms to bring their food to the masses. Though the release does not disclose the location of the St. Louis operation for George Lopez Tacos, a quick search pinpointed it to 1000 Washington Avenue.
Described as “iconic street taco recipes developed by George himself,” the menu comprises two different tacos. La Chingona features a slow-cooked and shredded protein of your choice, diced onion, cilantro, salsa verde, pickled onions, roasted jalapeños and corn tortillas. The La Más Cabrona offers the same protein selections and accouterments, but with the addition of fire-roasted peppers and onions and avocado crema. Other menu items include chips and salsa, chips and guacamole, churro bites, churro bun ice cream sandwiches and Oreo churros.
Those interested in ordering George Lopez Tacos for delivery can use any number of delivery platforms, including Seamless, DoorDash, Grubhub or Uber Eats.n
George Lopez is bringing his street tacos to St. Louis. | GREG CAHILL
From Treat Box to Ice Box
Written by HOLDEN HINDES
Loryn Nalic’s take on Balkan classics has been a hit from the start.
After starting out with a popular food truck, she opened Balkan Treat Box (8103 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves; 314-733-5700) in 2019 with her husband Edo. The lunch spot continues to receive national acclaim, including a nomination as one of Bon Appetit’s top 50 and a James Beard semifinalist nod for Nalic.
Now, Nalic takes on a new frontier — frozen food, shipped to your door. In a limited collaboration with the New Yorkbased company Balkan Bites, Nalic’s recipe for smoked beef and potato burek is being produced and sold in Balkan Bites’ online catalog of frozen burek.
“I have had every single frozen burek that I can buy in St. Louis, and none of them can touch theirs with a ten-foot pole,” Nalic says.
Balkan Bites’ chef Alida Malushi and CEO Ariana Tolka (aunt and niece, respectively) reached out to Nalic after seeing her burek recipe in the Wall Street Journal.
Nalic says, “We have not been able to meet. This all transpired during the pandemic. They actually were at farmers markets, and then the pandemic had them pivot. In order for them to keep their business going, they went to frozen. Just a powerhouse, really smart women. So they pivoted into that, and right then it became a lightbulb moment of ‘Oh, wait! We could do this from afar!’ They sent me product, I sent them a recipe, they made it, we tweaked it, we finally got it right, and here we are.”
Collaborating on the phone, sending food back and forth, and a shared admiration for each other’s dedication to traditional Balkan cuisine led to a burek that everyone involved is excited to share with the country.
Burek comes in many forms, under many names — Nalic calls them pitas — but basically they’re stuffed pastries. Nalic says that theirs “is serena pita, which translates to rainbow.”
Much of the magic is in the specific dough used.
“It’s a jufka, which is a type of phyllo dough,” Nalic explains. “It’s a handstretched, thin, thin pastry. It’s one of those doughs that is really ethereal and light.”
Fillings can vary, and Nalic has settled on a classic version.
“It has a Bosnian smoked beef in there called suho meso that is a smoked, dried beef,” she says. “With the potatoes and the caramelized onions, it was just so magical to me.”
Nalic learned this recipe from St. Louis’ own Kific family.
“The family had me come into their home and taught me to do this,” she says. “They’re really special people to me ... They’re close friends to Edo and his family. His parents grew up with their family in Bosnia, before the war. They’re all from the same town. And then their grandmother, Nana, kind of everyone’s grandma, was just an incredible cook and matriarch in the family. She passed away this year, so it was a huge homage to her.”
Burek fares particularly well in a home oven. Nalic says that “it’s actually one of those products that does really well from frozen to baking, and getting crispy and flaky and golden brown.”
And finding the frozen variety might be the best bet for tracking them down on a consistent basis. Despite Nalic’s enthusiasm for the stuffed pastries, they’re not on the regular menu at her restaurant.
“We do have plans to do a day where we feature this kind of pita, to crosspromote,” Nalic says. “We’ve run it a few times as specials, but it’s not something you can get every day here.”
If the collaboration with the New York company succeeds, Nalic expects Balkan Treat Box to expand further into the frozen market. She is used to introducing St. Louis patrons to dishes they might be eating for the first time, and she sees potential to do that on the national level through the partnership.
“What we’re trying to accomplish,” Nalic says, “is getting Balkan food out there, to be mainstream and in everyone’s kitchen, and becoming American food.”
