Short Orders

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SHORT ORDERS

[ST. LOUIS STANDARDS]

Go Nuts

Mound City Shelled Nut Company has thrived in St. Louis for nearly 40 years

Written by CHERYL BAEHR

Byron Smyrniotis will never forget the sight he saw when he first peeked through the windows of Mound City Shelled Nut Company’s thenstorefront on Delmar Boulevard. It was 1973, and he was casually checking out the business after hearing from the former owner’s nephew that it was for sale.

What he saw didn’t do much to convince him to take the leap.

“It was empty except for a one hundred pound bag of peanuts,” Smyrniotis recalls. “That’s all that was left in the entire store.”

Still, Smyrniotis felt like he was the person to turn the business around. Armed with an entrepreneurial spirit and a penchant for tackling challenges, he decided to go all-in.

“I had no experience and didn’t know anything about anything, but I took out a second mortgage on my house and bought the business,” he says.

At the time, Smyrniotis was not the obvious choice to take over Mound City, the storied nut company that had been in business since 1917. An engineer by trade, he had a good job with Emerson Electric, working for their electric and space division. Though he had every intention of continuing on in that role, he was looking for an investment opportunity and was curious whether that might be Mound City after learning that the founder, Ben Kessel, had passed away. Kessel’s widow was looking to sell the business, and Smyrniotis figured he’d fix it up, sell it and move on to his next investment. It didn’t go that smoothly.

“I was a little frustrated for a minute,” Smyrniotis says. “There was no one there to help me, and [Kessel’s] wife didn’t know anything about the business. I found some records, called some of the people he was buying from and started placing orders within about four or five days. They were supposed to start coming in the third week of November, but there was a national truck strike that delayed everything. We didn’t get our first shipment — pecans — until December. I packaged them up and our entire retail store was pecans. People came in and asked if I was going out of business. I told them, no, we are going into business.”

As Smyrniotis got his feet underneath him, he realized that owning and operating Mound City was going to be more than a side hustle. He asked for time off from Emerson Electric to focus on his business but eventually had to leave that job behind. Aided by some of Mound City’s former employees who had come back to work for him, he was able to grow the business and start franchising it. The first one was off Ballas Road, followed by locations in the Central West End and Columbia, Missouri, and they enjoyed a good amount of success. However, Smyrniotis did not like the franchise arrangement because he did not have as much control over the processes and brand as he wanted. He eventually terminated those agreements and focused on opening his own company stores and seasonal locations, which had a roughly fifteen-year run.

During that time, Mound City developed a reputation as much for its chocolate-covered nuts as its plain shelled ones. Smyrniotis credits his grandfather with this development. A Greek immigrant who came to the United States with a friend who was a chocolatier, the elder Smyrniotis had restaurants and a candy shop on South Grand called Busy Bee for years. When Smyrniotis bought Mound City, his grandfather told him that he had to also have chocolates, and began making them for the business. His grandfather’s technique, coupled with ultrafresh nuts, dazzled his customers. “The advantage we have is that we process all the nuts we cover, whereas most of the chocolate guys buy theirs in cans,” Smyrniotis says. “We roast and chocolate cover and always use pure chocolate, while others use thinners

Mound City Shelled Nut Company was little more than a shell when it was last sold in the 1970s. Now, it’s going strong. | ANDY PAULISSEN

Byron Smyrniotis (center) with his Missouri City Shelled Nut Company crew. | ANDY PAULISSEN

Chocolate-covered o erings have become a customer favorite. | ANDY PAULISSEN

e business has been a University City mainstay for decades. | ANDY PAULISSEN

and chemicals in theirs.”

However, Smyrniotis insists that you do not need to cover his products in chocolate to enjoy them. As he explains, Mound City’s nuts are superior because he buys them directly from the growers, not from a distributor. This prevents the nuts from sitting in a vacuumsealed can in a warehouse for months, thereby resulting in a fresher product. He also believes in the importance of roasting the nuts to the point where they will achieve their peak flavor. While other nut companies, including the large brands, roast to the minimum level to do this quicker and ultimately cheaper, he insists on taking his time.

“It takes longer to really roast them the way they should be,” Smyrniotis says. “If you taste them roasted properly, the flavor is so much better and different than what you buy out of a can. There is just no comparison.”

Though he’s been at it for nearly 40 years — and never intended to have that long of a run — Smyrniotis has no plans to change anything at Mound City for the foreseeable future. He jokes that he spent years intending to sell it, but there was always one more thing he felt he needed to do. Eventually, he realized he wasn’t going anywhere else. Once he got there, he knew there was nowhere else he should be.

“I realized that the great thing about a small business is you can make changes with the snap of a finger, and I really liked that,” Smyrniotis says. “When I was in corporate America it took an act of Congress to make change, but here, if I want to do something, I do it. I’m very spontaneous, so I like that. Still, we haven’t made drastic changes — just a bit of fine-tuning here and there. We’re still doing our thing day by day by day.” n

Mac’s Local Eats is still open at Bluewood Brewing Company for now. | MABEL SUEN

[BURGERS]

Mac’s Local Eats Isn’t Closing After All

Written by CHERYL BAEHR

Reversing an announcement from last week, Mac’s Local Eats (1821 Cherokee Street, 314-3937713) will continue operating inside of Bluewood Brewing Company. The burger outfit will remain open inside of the brewery Wednesday through Sunday for the foreseeable future.

The news, announced via Mac’s Local Eats’ social media pages, is a dramatic about-face in a saga involving the food counter and the brewery that began last Wednesday. That afternoon, Bluewood announced over social media that the wildly popular burger spot would “no longer be operating out of Bluewood Brewing after August 3, 2021.” No reason was given for the decision. Reached by the RFT, Bluewood confirmed the news but declined to comment.

According to its recent post announcing its continued service out of Bluewood, Mac’s Local Eats learned of the supposed closure via social media and has since confirmed its business relationship with the brewery. “There have been a lot of questions over the last few days about our plans for the future. Our intention has always been to honor the terms of our lease so we will continue to operate inside of Bluewood Brewing from Wednesday through Sunday for the foreseeable future, regardless of their operating hours.”

The post also notes Mac’s intent to find a larger location as it continues to grow.

Reached for comment about these latest developments by the RFT, both Mac’s Local Eats owner Chris McKenzie and a representative from Bluewood Brewing Company declined to comment further than what their social media posts state.

Mac’s Local Eats has been serving out of Bluewood Brewing Company since September of 2019. Prior to that, the beloved burger brand developed a robust following as a food window inside of Tamm Avenue Bar, in which it operated from 2017 until 2019.

You can read the entire statement from Mac’s Local Eats below.

Hi Mac’s Local Eats Fam, There have been quite a few questions over the last few days about our plans for the future. Our intention has always been to honor the terms of our lease so we will continue to operate inside of Bluewood Brewing Company from Wednesday through Sunday for the foreseeable future, regardless of their operating hours.

We are actively looking for a larger location as we continue to grow, but we do not plan to cease operations after August 3rd. We never stated that was the case. In all honesty, we read the announcement along with all of you on social media. We will continue to serve our food so that we can take care of our Mac’s Local Eats team of 20 employees. This is our #1 priority. They are the reason that we pivoted to open our drivethru lane during the pandemic. They are the reason that we want to continue to operate in our current kitchen at Bluewood Brewing. Your continued support means the world to us, and we’ve got your burgers ready. n

NEWS

[STRAIN REVIEW]

Tommy Chims Smokes Heya’s Runtz Weed

Written by THOMAS CHIMCHARDS

There are few, if any, strains of cannabis on the market right now enjoying the level of hype that surrounds Runtz.

A hybrid created by crossing Zkittlez with Gelato that debuted in December 2017, the strain has been referenced by name in more than 100 rap songs, according to lyrics website genius.com, earning a reputation as one enjoyed by the most discerning of smokers. In keeping, it became common at the end of the 2010s for black market dealers to attempt to pass off a lot of their wares under the name, making the concept of fake Runtz its own inside joke in both stoner and rap culture, elevating it to the point of a status symbol in the latter. (One example, from the 2019 SOB x RBE track “Mosh Pit”: “What the fuck is twenty bands? Bitch, I’m getting real cash / N*ggas smoking fake Runtz, bitch, I’m smoking real gas.”)

The hype was not without warrant, and that was soon proven when the popular cannabis site leafly.com named Runtz its 2020 Strain of the Year. “Runtz checks each box and tears up the scorecard,” the publication noted.

That assessment is borne out by reviews from satisfied smokers on the site as well.

“Took two bong rips an I was floating over a rainbow into never land,” writes one. “I saw Peter Pan an shit my pants. I woke up in the bathtub”

“IT LOOKS LIKE IT COULD BEAT YOU IN A FIGHT AND THEN STEAL YOUR WIFE, AND IT SMELLS LIKE AN OOMPA LOOMPAS DUMPHOLE!!” raves(?) another.

“this will have you talking to your forehead,” asserts a third.

So naturally, when I noticed that St. Ann’s newly opened Heya dispensary was carrying the wildly popular strain, I decided it was time to see what my forehead might have to say.

Heya’s version of the strain clocks in at 17.3 percent THC, and cost me $73.36 for an eighth after tax. When I opened the bag I was surprised to find that nearly all the weight came in the form of one big bud, about the length of one of my fingers, ranging in color from forest green to purple to light green, especially in the center, with orange hairs and a fine coating of resin throughout. On breakup it gave off a sweet, citrusy smell with peppery and fuellike notes, consistent with the fact that caryophyllene, limonene and linalool are the strain’s dominant terpenes. On inhale that fruity and sweet candy taste that gives it its name was prevalent, almost like black licorice but without the bitterness. It’s a pleasant and flavorful smoke.

As for effects, let this be a warning to you: This is definitely a “creeper” strain. I did not notice much in the way of effects immediately, but felt myself slowly soaring up and up and up over the course of about twenty minutes, until I was looking down from above like I was on a hot-air balloon ride. The high leans a bit on the sativa side, but is pretty balanced overall — I was happy and chatty, didn’t feel debilitated or couch-locked, and it was a relaxing high, but not so much so that I felt particularly tired. At the same time, I wouldn’t go so far as to say it’s a good strain for getting shit done, simply owing to the fact I was so incredibly stoned that my brains were reduced to scrambled eggs. It also didn’t strike me as particularly good for pain, but to be fair that’s not what it’s known for.

It’s known, apparently, for sparking conversations with one’s own forehead. On that front, it delivered — but that was a personal conversation that just isn’t fit for print. ou’ll just have to pick some Runtz up and start chatting with your own dome if you want a glimpse into what’s on the minds of the forehead community these days. You won’t be disappointed. n

Heya’s Runtz strain came primarily in the form of one enormous bud that comprised most of the eighth we purchased. | TOMMY CHIMS

[MODERN LIFE]

Test Driving Weed Delivery

Written by DANNY WICENTOWSKI

From a dispensary to your front door — that’s the promise of Doobie, St. Louis’ only cannabis home delivery service, which on July 22 marked its first day of ferrying orders to medical marijuana patients in the metro area.

While the service can feel at first like DoorDash for weed, Doobie presently connects patients only with products at Jane Dispensary (6662 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-464-4420). On a recent weekday, the service sent a shiny white van with ice-cooled bags of THC gummies to a residence in south St. Louis.

But actually getting a delivery of cannabis — which in this test case took about two hours from placing the order to receiving the product — isn’t quite as simple as firing up a food delivery app and scrolling through a menu from your favorite Chinese restaurant.

For one thing, as Jane general manager Jordan Everding explains, your delivery driver isn’t some stranger they’ve hired through an app. Instead, the entire process, from product to driver to vehicle, is controlled by the local dispensary. Doobie is just the “delivery partner,” Everding says.

What Doobie does offer is the online system that unites Jane’s cannabis menu with delivery-tracking software and payment processing. It’s here that things get a little more complicated.

First, customers are required to create an account with Hypur, a third-party payment processor that links to your checking account — which charges the full amount of your order at checkout. Everding says this system meets Missouri’s legal requirement that all cannabis purchases are paid for on-site. It means that the entire delivery is effectively cashless.

For some customers, these steps may pose a digital barrier, and Everding acknowledges that customers could be wary of linking a bank account or setting up a Hypur PIN number just to get a delivery.

But at least for now, this is the only avenue for legal cannabis delivery in St. Louis. (Everding also notes that while the current Doobie order form appears to feature an alternative form of payment, the field listed as “Pay by phone” actually connects customers with a Jane employee — who will then walk you through the steps of making a Hypur account to finish the payment process. Everding says that the current menu will soon be updated to better reflect the payment options.)

Customers should also expect to provide their Missouri medical marijuana card number and an ID or driver’s license. They should also to be available for a phone call from a Jane employee who will finalize the order. (Remember to keep your Hypur PIN number handy!)

Additionally, the delivery driver will require you to sign a form and provide your medical card and ID once again, all steps needed to comply with the state’s “seed to sale” tracking system.

Granted, these are a lot of extra steps. But in an interview, Everding says the first