Riverfront Times Bar Guide 2017

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2017

Crafting the Spirits that Stir the World


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Publisher Chris Keating Editor in Chief Sarah Fenske EDITORIAL Creative Director Kelly Glueck Contributing Writers Cheryl Baehr, Sara Graham, Daniel Hill, Kevin Korinek, Lauren Milford, Doyle Murphy, Elizabeth Semko, Alison Sieloff, Danny Wicentowski Contributing Photographers Monica Mileur, Mabel Suen, Jennifer Silverberg PRODUCTION Production Manager Brittani Schlager M U LT I M E D I A A DV E R T I S I N G Sales Director Colin Bell Senior VP Sales & Marketing Mike Lipel Senior Account Executive Cathleen Criswell, Erica Kenney, Nicole Starzyk Multimedia Account Executive Jill George Account Managers Emily Fear, Jennifer Samuel C I R C U L AT I O N Circulation Manager Kevin G. Powers EUCLID MEDIA GROUP Chief Executive Officer Andrew Zelman Chief Operating Officers Chris Keating, Michael Wagner Human Resources Director Lisa Beilstein Senior Marketing & Events Director Cassandra Yardeni VP of Digital Services Stacy Volhein www.euclidmediagroup.com

TABLE OF

CONTENTS A COMPLETE GUIDE TO

COCKTAIL BARS THE FOUNDERS.....................16 THE MAD SCIENTISTS.........23 THE SWANKY SET................33

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Riverfront Times 6358 Delmar Boulevard, Suite 300, St. Louis, MO 63130-4719 www.riverfronttimes.com

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ECO-CHIC...............................52 MORE THAN MARGARITAS.........................74 THE SPECIALISTS.................85 FRIENDS AND NEIGHBORS.................93

SIDE BARS

We’ve got all of your favorite craft beers including impressive choices brewed right here in St. Louis! Our team of experts takes great care in curating our selection for you.

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SPLENDID SANGRIA..........109 BEST DIVE BARS.................116

Cover photo taken by

ANDREW TRINH / CREATIVE ENTOURAGE SUBZERO VODKA BAR FEATURING TOKI WHISKEY WITH DUSTIN PARRES

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48 taps with a variety of craft beeer, wine, cider, & coffee. one-of-a kind drinking experience by allowing the freedom to self-pour.

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For St. Louis, it’s been 100 years of cocktail bliss. Let the good drinks keep pouring! BY CHERYL BAEHR t high noon on a Sunday in May 1917, 50 ladies and gents adorned in their Sunday church-going best descended upon the Central West End residence of St. Louis socialite Julius Walsh for what, tradition holds, was the first-ever cocktail party. Outfitted with an “equipped private bar,” then-fashionable libations flowed throughout the Walsh home at 4510 Lindell Boulevard, notes Eric Felten, who wrote the definitive account of the event in the Wall Street Journal in 2007. Previous theme parties had served alcohol, sure, but guests were more likely to gather around a bowl of egg nog than sample the day’s version of mixology. Yet at this midday affair, there were “Bronx Cocktails” and “Clover Leafs,” highballs and gin fizz-

A

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professional bartenders who had the vision to realize that, as diners became more and more interested in the food they consumed, they were just as likely to care about their drinks. These noble craftsmen and women saved us from the hellscape of watery vodka Red Bulls and appletinis, ushering in a cocktail renaissance that has resulted in the high-quality drinks we now take for granted. This guide is a celebration of the scene they’ve created, the drinks they’ve concocted, the restaurants that have given them a platform and the patrons who’ve dared to drink outside their comfort zones. In that spirit, we’ve compiled a list of the city’s best cocktail bars, a roster that, while not exhaustive, is a field guide to the city’s must-visit drinking establishments. Additionally, you’ll find suggestions for where to get the best sangria, some wonderful mezcal-based drinks, and — when you just want an ice cold beer or shoot of well whiskey, neat — the city’s ten best dive bars, one based on the extensive research we did for last year’s dive-focused bar guide. Like the libations on offer at Mrs. Walsh’s house or the densely described elixirs that populate the cocktail menus of the city’s best watering holes, we hope this guide provides something for everyone, regardless your particular tastes. May you use it to help you drink your way through St. Louis’ rich history, soak up our present and get a taste of what is to come. n

Retreat Gastropub. | MONICA MILEUR

and Stirred

es, manhattans, martinis and sazeracs. Within weeks, writes Felten, the cocktail party was a St. Louis institution, spreading across the city before making its way across the pond seven years later, eventually becoming the gold standard for sophisticated gatherings across the globe. As we celebrate the 100th anniversary of what is arguably our city’s greatest contribution to the international food and beverage scene (Provel cheese aside), we can’t help but see the thread that connects our cocktail past with the present. In the 100 years since Mrs. Walsh opened her manse to those afternoon imbibers, St. Louis has been a microcosm of the country’s cocktail scene. Sometimes, you need only consider a single drinking establishment to take the nation’s cocktail pulse. Consider Planter’s House, today the city’s premier cocktail bar and home to its most recognizable barman, Ted Kilgore. Named after the illustrious Planter’s House Hotel, the bar pays homage to the city’s rich cocktail tradition, in which the country’s first celebrity bartender, Jerry Thomas, literally wrote the book on drinks in the 1860s. Thomas counted Lincoln, Grant and Dickens among his patrons before Prohibition would all but destroy the notion of quality cocktails. Today, the name Planter’s House is again synonymous with top-notch drinks, as is the city as a whole, thanks to pioneers like Kilgore, the Royale’s Steve Smith and the many talented

BAR GUIDE 2017 | RIVERFRONT TIMES

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The

Founders

These innovators deserve credit for making the St. Louis scene what it is today

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tenders who not only continue Kilgore’s legacy but forge their own paths — and in turn define what it means to drink in St. Louis. Taste It’s no surprise that the chef who bears the most responsibility in making St. Louis dining scene the jewel it is today is also credited with helping to define its cocktail scene. Granted, a handful of foundational bars and restaurants came before, but when Gerard Craft opened Taste (4584 Laclede Avenue, 314-361-1200) in a tiny storefront in Benton Park, he did so with the vision of making cocktails that were more than just thoughtful — he wanted them to be complementary to, if not an extension of, the food coming from his kitchen. By tapping Monarch’s Ted Kilgore to head his bar program, Craft gave the already acclaimed barman a venue to spread his wings and show the city just how much could be done in a glass. Kilgore is gone, and Taste is now in a handsome space in the Central West End, but the bar’s legacy is still on display here, as well on the menus of every St. Louis cocktail bar worth its salt. Perhaps it’s more than just coincidence that we refer to drinks these days as “craft cocktails.”

Ted Kilgore, Planter’s House.|MONICA MILEUR

Planter’s House Though it’s difficult to remember in today’s progressive drink environment, there was a time when going out for a cocktail in St. Louis meant a watered-down vodka tonic or, if you were feeling adventurous, a specialty martini. Then came Ted Kilgore, a former industrial perfumer who transformed the city’s cocktail scene, first at the acclaimed Monarch, then at Taste and finally, at his own bar, Planter’s House (1000 Mississippi Avenue, 314-696-2603). Kilgore redefined what a drink could be, pushing and creating and putting as much thought into a glass as an acclaimed chef puts on a plate. Together with his wife Jamie and partner Ted Charak, Kilgore has created a temple to cocktails at Planter’s House, honoring the history (Planter’s House is in a former hotel that bore the same name, and its bar-within-a-bar Bullock Room is named after Tom Bullock, a St. Louisan and the first African-American to write a cocktail book) even while pushing toward the future. These days, Kilgore has mostly stepped away from the shaker, spending most of his time as beverage director, helping to facilitate and give direction to cocktail ideas, but his reputation for being the best has attracted the best: Planter’s House is the place to work for the bar-

Continued on pg 18 BAR GUIDE 2017 | RIVERFRONT TIMES

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THE FOUNDERS

Steve Smith, the Royale. | MONICA MILEUR

Continued from pg 17

The Royale In 2005, the St. Louis cocktail scene was grim. Then came Steve Smith, who had the vision to know we wanted more even before we ourselves did. Smith purchased the old Real Bar and partnered with his friend Tim O’Connell with the mission of creating a real-deal cocktail-focused bar, anchored in balanced drinks and professional service. Their spot, the Royale (3132 South Kingshighway Boulevard, 314772-3600), quickly became the preeminent place in town for good drinks, igniting a spark that would turn our scene into the vibrant one it is today. You wouldn’t

suspect the role the Royale has played in our city’s cocktail culture simply by walking into the building today. The vibe is unassuming and relaxed, the essence of laidback south city. However, once you taste one of the Royale’s perfectly balanced, impeccably crafted concoctions — such as the gin, cucumber and lime “Subcontinental,” which has been on the menu since day one — you’ll realize you are tasting the very essence of what makes drinking in St. Louis so special. Grab a table on the lovely patio, if you are lucky enough to get one, and enjoy drinks made with skill but without an ounce of pretentiousness. n

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TheMad

Scientists

These bars aren’t for traditionalists. But if you’re up for experimental and even wacky mixes, they know how to whet your whistle

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The Libertine The Libertine (7927 Forsyth Boulevard, Clayton; 314-862-2999) has been many things since it first opened in 2013: a haute Southern table with a Food and Wine “best chef ” winner, a Mediterranean-inflected temple of decadence and now, a fiercely local homage to the bounty of Missouri’s farms. Amidst the reinventions, one constant has been the restaurant’s place in the upper echelon of St. Louis’ cocktail scene. Helmed by head barkeep Ben Bauer, the Libertine’s bar has garnered a reputation as a top spot for experimentation. Coupled with owner

Nick Luedde’s creative, anything-goes spirit, Bauer’s penchant for forging new boundaries makes the program unique. From housemade pineapple and duck fat cachaça to wormwood bitters, Bauer draws upon his interest in culinary arts to make the bar an extension of the kitchen. Always researching, Bauer doesn’t spend a day behind the bar without trying something new — and yes, that has included trying to persuade his bosses to let him put a pig’s blood cocktail on the menu. It hasn’t happened yet, but don’t put anything past this visionary. Continued on pg 25

Crafted. • @craftedstl • www.craftedstl.com

The Libertine. | MONICA MILEUR

3200 SHENANDOAH AVE. • SAINT LOUIS, MO 63104 • 314.865.3345

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MAD SCIENTISTS

Randolfi’s. | MONICA MILEUR

Continued from pg 23

Randolfi’s Mike Randolph is one of the city’s most innovative chefs, and so it’s no surprise he’d call upon one of St. Louis’ most innovative bartenders to run his cocktail program. Headed by Jeffrey Moll, the bar at Randolfi’s (6665 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-899-9221) is less a place to grab a drink and more a drink-centric classroom — literally: there’s a glossary of terms on the menu. Moll has curated a selection of roughly 25 vermouths, nearly that many selections of amaro and an equally impressive list of fernet. That may intimidate you, but it shouldn’t, as Moll is happy to be your guide. As for cocktails, his drink list is divided between “classics” and “adventurous,” the latter featuring drinks with names such as “Advice from a Fortune Cookie.” It makes sense that Moll has a background in fine arts. He was in need of a creative outlet when he found a kindred spirit in Randolph, who gave him a chance to helm the bar at his acclaimed Little Country Gentleman, even though Moll had zero professional bartending experience. Determined to prove himself, Moll has since dedicated himself to learning everything he can about spirits and developing palateprovoking drinks. His bar is a place to be inspired. Continued on pg 28

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JORDAN GOODWIN 24

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BAR GUIDE 2017 | RIVERFRONT TIMES

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ALWAYS A PARTY

Located in the Heart of “The Hill” THE BEST OF MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE,

CLASSIC ITALIAN FARE AND TRADITIONAL SPANISH ENTREES AND TAPAS. “A Taste of Spain in the Middle of Italy”

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5046 SHAW AVE, ST. LOUIS, MO 63110 (314) 771-4900 • GUIDOSSTL.COM 26

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THREE GREAT BARS IN ONE

DUKE’S SPORTS BAR - PATIO BAR - THE BALCONY CLUB

2001 Menard (corner of Allen & Menard) In the Heart of Soulard Like & Follow Us on Facebook: @dukesinsoulard

BAR GUIDE 2017 | RIVERFRONT TIMES

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MAD SCIENTISTS

YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD SPORTS PATIO BAR

Continued from pg 25

COLD BEER & AWESOME FOOD

Atomic Cowboy. | MONICA MILEUR

Atomic Cowboy Twelve years ago, Chip Schloss looked at the stretch of Manchester Avenue between Vandeventer and Kingshighway and saw huge potential. Aside from the gay bars that have long anchored the neighborhood, the area now known as the Grove wasn’t yet a major nightlife destination — but Schloss knew it could be, and so he opened the venerated Atomic Cowboy (4140 Manchester Avenue, 314775-0775) in 2005. In the decade-plus since, the Grove has become one of the hottest spots to drink in all of St. Louis, bursting with bars and eateries and music venues. Even with the influx of new businesses, though, Atomic Cowboy stands alone. The venue could be better described as a “sprawling complex” than a mere bar at this point, with the addition of the Bootleg music venue and a large outdoor stage on the patio. It isn’t just music that keeps patrons coming back, though. Atomic Cowboy now has at the helm of its drinks program hotshot bartender Tony Saputo, the RFT’s pick for “Best Bartender” in 2015. Less a “mixologist” than a “tastebud whisperer,” Saputo’s advice for customers is simple: “Stop passively consuming and start actually tasting.” With cocktails as delicious as the “Afternoon Delight” — a concoction featuring two kinds of rum, Licor 43, Pierre Ferrand Ancienne Methode dry curaçao, Frangelico, salt, bitters, lime, orange and cream that tastes like a damn Dreamsicle — that won’t be a problem. 28

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ITS WHERE YOU WANT TO BE

Sanctuaria Matt Seiter, who launched the cocktail program at Sanctuaria Wild Tapas (4198 Manchester Avenue, 314-535-9700) and served as its head bartender for four years, wrote a 2012 book dubbing the place “the dive bar of cocktail bars.” Even though five years have passed (and Seiter has moved on), the sobriquet still feels apt. The vibe at Sanctuaria is a little bit goth, a little bit rock ‘n’ roll — and the cocktails are appropriately complex and a bit edgy. It’s not at all surprising to find a cocktail on the menu called the “Iron Maiden” (gin, pomegranate liqueur, rose water, simple syrup, lime and basil) or to find bitters play a key role in many drinks. And if you’re truly seeking the best, don’t miss the list of “ShowOffs” for a half-dozen drinks that feature topshelf spirits (and prices to match). But it’s not all dark hedonism; Sanctuaria serves a series of house cocktails with sherry and port, warm spirits that pair well with the Spanish tapas on offer. n

1818 Sidney St. (at Lemp) Benton Park-Soulard

Like & Follow Us on Facebook @Truemans.soulard BAR GUIDE 2017 | RIVERFRONT TIMES

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DESTINATION PATIO BAR AMAZING FOOD ENTERTAINMENT FRI-SAT-SUN TVs EVERYWHERE & ALL THE GAMES

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4317 Manchester Rd in the Grove 314.553.9252 | laylastl.com 30

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BIKES WELCOME

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The Preston Located inside the Chase Park Plaza, the Preston (212 North Kingshighway Boulevard, 314-633-7800) has only been open for a year and a half, but thanks to a carefully crafted menu and a timeless setting, it already feels like a classic. Just as the restaurant seamlessly blends worlds old and new with elegant details throughout the space, the drink menu offers up both standards and signature creations designed to pair well with the modern American small plates menu. One of the most popular drinks offers a nod to the restaurant’s namesake and the building’s creator, Preston J. Bradshaw. “Goodnight Mr. Preston” was created by veteran bartenders Joshua “Doc” Johnson and Sasha Alms, and features Buffalo Trace bourbon, Carpano Antica, Benedictine liqueur and Angostura bitters. Continued on pg 36

The Preston. | MONICA MILEUR

SUSHI | BURGERS | VODKA

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SWANKY

Continued from pg 33

Thaxton Speakeasy Don’t even bother trying the front door at Thaxton Speakeasy (1009 Olive Street). It’s locked, and even if you were able to break in, the empty, first-floor room it leads to would surely make you think you were in the wrong place. Instead, armed with a password you get in advance, head around to the back alley, where you’ll be met by a doorman who will grant you entry if you can say the magic word. The extra effort is worth it. Once inside, the stairs that lead to the lower level act as a time machine, transporting you back to the days of Prohibition with a ritzy vibe and swinging sounds. It’s like the Roaring ‘20s all over again — well, except for the bathtub gin. Here, the cocktails are balanced and dangerously quaffable, including the housemade “Moonshine,” which packs a serious punch in light of its shockingly smooth taste. Music runs the gamut between the vintage-inspired Miss Jubilee and a regularly occurring ‘80s and ‘90s dance party theme, but no matter what’s playing, Thaxton will make you want to swing. 36

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Polite Society. | MABEL SUEN

Blood and Sand Named for a classic cocktail, Blood & Sand (1500 St. Charles Street, 314-241-7263) takes its drinks seriously, but not so much that it spoils the fun. Located in an old downtown building with a virtually unnoticeable entrance, this members-only bar and restaurant serves up a wide range of cocktails and tasty eats — the truffled tater tots are truly something to behold. But it also imparts the feeling that when you sip and savor at its stately bar, you’re doing something worthwhile, important, noble even. With cheeky names that provide a bit of levity, ingredients that swing from the classic to the unusual and an always-impressive balance of proportion and creativity, the cocktails at Blood & Sand don’t disappoint. And remember: If you’re not seeing something on the menu that suits your tastes, a custom drink is just an ask away.

Frazer’s Open in Benton Park since 1992, Frazer’s Restaurant & Lounge (1811 Pestalozzi Street, 314-773-8646) started as a lunch spot for workers at the nearby Anheuser-Busch brewery. But you don’t survive in south city for 25 years without being able to adapt with the times, and Frazer Cameron’s namesake restaurant has shown a nimble versatility that allows it to be many things to many people. These days, in fact, we think of Frazer’s first and foremost as a cocktail spot — with a snazzy mid-century modern vibe, great energy and some terrific drinks. The bartenders are clearly having fun here (can you think of any other place in town

that would serve the “Lady Sauget”?), with good reason. Their skill level is as high as their spirits. Polite Society The long-awaited new spot in Lafayette Square, Polite Society (1923 Park Avenue, 314-325-2553), doesn’t position itself as a cocktail bar — and the wine list is good enough that you may find yourself tempted to get a glass of that instead. You won’t necessarily regret that, but you would be missing out. Travis Hebrank, who runs Polite Society’s bar program, is also a skilled mixologist, and the cocktails here are among the tastiest in town. The hibis-

cus daiquiri may well be the drink of the summer: White rum is shaken with hibiscus reduction, watermelon-infused simple syrup and lime juice, and then given a lite eggwhite float and a dash of Burlesque bitters. We also adore the “Kind of Blue,” a glass as elegantly smoky as its jazz-inspired name, with peppered gin, smoked vodka, blueberry and blackberry juices and Creme Yvette. And while you could order these drinks anywhere in the restaurant, we recommend snagging a seat at the bar if you can. Hebrank is a charming host, and the physical space — situated in a room all its own — is unusually roomy for a restaurant this busy. Continued on pg 40 BAR GUIDE 2017 | RIVERFRONT TIMES 37


Tucker’s Place soulard HAPPY HOUR

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•Half Priced Pizza & Appetizers 1 per person

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BAR GUIDE 2017 | RIVERFRONT TIMES

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Tucker’s Place south HAPPY HOUR

Happy Hour Specials in the bar area only

Sardella. | MABEL SUEN

DRINK SPECIALS:

SWANKY

Continued from pg 37

Sardella Italians may have a love affair with food, but they are equally enamored of their aperitifs, a fact in delicious evidence at Sardella (7734 Forsyth Blvd, Clayton; 314-773-7755). At James Beard Award winner Gerard Craft’s Italian-inspired spot, the food is well-matched by insightful cocktails. Here, mixologists turn the aesthetic of fine dining into fine drinking, transforming high-quality drams into delicious works of art, like the “Welcome to Heartbreak” — Sardella’s spin on the manhattan, made with Elijah Craig bourbon, Bruto Americano, Cardamaro and mole. Or opt for the white rum negroni, an absolute pleasure to sip. You can rely on an astute wine and spirits list, although exuberant treats, like a boozy mojito float, also make the occasional appearance. Tables fill up quickly, so find a spot at the bar to imbibe during daylight hours, when the vibrant decor makes Sardella a welcome spot for bloody marys at brunch. In the evening, copper lamps suspended above add a certain mood, illuminating the blue and white Mediterranean mosaic tiles and giving the restaurant a decidedly Old World ambiance. 40

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Olive + Oak Co-owners Mark Hinkle and Greg Ortyl created a masterpiece last year when they opened Olive + Oak (102 West Lockwood Avenue, Webster Groves; 314-736-1370) as a tribute to their young sons, who both passed away from congenital heart defects. The owners and executive chef Jesse Mendica strive for excellence, serving everything from cheese curds to the prime cowboy ribeye with traditional techniques and the best ingredients possible. The drinks are no different: Olive + Oak aims to “offer you the best of all worlds to accompany your meal” with thoughtful cocktails, an extensive wine list and numerous craft beers on draft. Can’t decide? The folks at Olive + Oak will gladly make recommendations. It’s for theses reasons, on top of the inviting atmosphere and charming decor (complete with black-and-white photos and hearts in memory of the restaurant’s namesakes) that make Olive + Oak such a winner. Customers know it — Olive + Oak is usually packed, and reservations fill up weeks in advance. But don’t fear if you just want to stop by for drinks: The bar, two communal rails, some select tables and the front patio are reserved for walk-ins. n

•Domestic Longnecks $2.75 •Domestic Draft Pints $2.25 Mon-Fri 3pm-6pm

FOOD SPECIALS •Half Priced Pizza & Selected Appetizers Mon-Fri 3pm-6pm •Half Priced Burgers Monday night only 6-10pm

PATIO OPEN! Voted #1 Steakhouse 19 years in a row! 1998-2017 RFT Readers Polls TUCKER’S PLACE SOUTH 314-845-2584 3939 UNION RD. E S T.

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Tucker’s Place West HAPPY HOUR

Happy Hour Specials in the bar area only

DRINK SPECIALS: •All Domestic Beer Bottles $2.50 •Bud Light & Killians Draft $2.50 glass or $6 pitcher •$1.00 off all other drafts •Rail Liquor drinks $3.50 Mon-Fri 3pm-6pm Mon & Wed 8pm-12am Tues & Thurs 9pm-12am Sun 9pm-11pm

FOOD SPECIALS •Half Priced Appetizers & Pizza Mon-Fri 3-6pm/Tues & Thurs 9-10pm •Half Priced Burgers & Pizza Mon-Fri 3-6pm/Mon & Wed 8-10pm

PATIO OPEN! Voted #1 Steakhouse 19 years in a row! 1998-2017 RFT Readers Polls WEST COUNTY • 636-227-8062 1 Blk. East of Hwy. 141 • 14282 MANCHESTER RD. E S T. 42

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The Cool Kids

brunch | dinner | happy hour | private events

Who says great cocktails need to be surrounded by formal fuss? These laidback spots pair terrific drinks with low-key, approachable settings Retreat Gastropub Every detail at Retreat Gastropub (6 North Sarah Street, 314-261-4497) is thought out. From the reclaimed wood bar-back to the lanterns hanging overhead, the place has a carefully curated (and self-described) modern rustic feel. But before you roll your eyes, have a drink. All that thought and attention produces some delicious cocktails that hold their own against the offerings on Retreat’s celebrated food menu. Underappreciated classics, such as a refreshing gimlet, play nicely with a lineup of cheeky inventions. Try a mezcal-fueled “Oaxaca Flocka Flame” or a “Fort Collins” with our assurances that while the names are

jokes, the drinks are serious. Thank twenty-something beverage director Tim Wiggins for that — or maybe thank owner Travis Howard, the former general manager of Baileys’ Range, who had the good sense to lure the up-and-coming barman away from another Dave Bailey restaurant, Small Batch, when he opened Retreat in 2015. Wiggins and his bar staff are unfailingly friendly and attentive. Follow their suggestions for a house-made shrub, served with Champagne or in a cocktail. (Pineapple sage is the most popular.) Sit inside at locally sourced wood tables or out on the sun porch ... or just grab a seat at the bar and enjoy watching professionals at work. Continued on pg 48

Bar Managaer Brian Nichols, utilizes these ingredients to work with like-mided vendors & local craft brewers to create an eclectic bar menu which compliments seasonally changing cuisine. Fresh local standards, along with a newly expanding wine list is designed to create an exciting dining experience for guests.

1520 s. fifth street st. charles, mo | prasinostcharles.com | 636.277.0202 | prasino_stc 44

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Retreat Gastropub. | MONICA MILEUR

Prasino’s farm to bar concept follows our green initiatives. Cocktail conceptualization begins with seasonal fresh produce from local farms.

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RFT Ad - July 5-5 x 8-5 PR-b.pdf

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7/24/17

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Continued from pg 45

Layla Here’s a news flash for anyone who’s only been to Layla (4317 Manchester Avenue, 314553-9252) for a bite with the kids or for a quick burger: The Grove’s chillest hangout is also a surprisingly sophisticated cocktail bar. Layla offers great shawarma, burgers, milkshakes and top-notch cocktails — like the “Oaxaca Texas Ranger,” which combines mezcal with serrano syrup, Stiegl Radler and fresh lime and grapefruit. Or try the “Mathattan,” a twist on the classic drink involving golden falernum and orange bitters. The brilliant Tony Saputo is no longer behind the bar at Layla, but his presence is still felt in these smart, highly quaffable drinks. Eclipse Galactic overlord of the Loop Joe Edwards opened Eclipse (6177 Delmar Boulevard, 314-726-2222) on the east side of his Delmar Boulevard galaxy in 2009, wasting no time stamping the building with his signature retro-kitsch style. Housed within and atop the Moonrise Hotel, the bar/restaurant features a clean modern look, NASA memorabilia and a whole lot of toy rocketships as a crucial part of its décor. And of course, let’s not forget about that rooftop bar, with its giant moon — the largest man-made moon in the world, in fact — looming overhead. If that’s not enough to put your head in the clouds, perhaps take a crack at the establishment’s cocktail selection, which features more than 25 drinks, including the excellent “Moon Shot,” made with Maker’s Mark, blackberry liqueur, lavender, lemon, falernum and Angostura bitters. Or perhaps you like to get to the point with your drinking — don’t worry, Eclipse has you covered, with more than 60 varieties of whiskey, more than enough to have you seeing stars. 48

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Juniper John Perkins’ Central West End restaurant is one of the best spots in the city to get a taste of St. Louis’ Southern roots. But the reasons to visit Juniper (360 North Boyle Avenue, 314-329-7696) are not limited to the food; this is also a great place to drink up the flavors of the South. For example, the “Georgia Julep,” which incorporates mint and peach sweet tea simple syrup in addition to Old Grandad. Not everything here is quite so on the nose — the cocktail list has a great variety of drinks that tilt to the sophisticated more than the thematic — but everything pairs well with the terrific food and the stylish, brick-walled space. We’re especially fond of “Hell Hath No Fury,” a mix of mezcal, watermelon shrub, lime and agave, topped with Hellfire bitters. Tiny Bar It may sound like a reality show in which contestants battle to open the smallest drinking establishment ever, but Tiny Bar (1008 Locust Street, 314-800-7218) is instead just as its name promises. Nestled snugly downtown near the Bridge Tap House, the bar boasts a whopping 250 square feet of space, with only ten seats — expect standing room only if you arrive at peak hours. While some may scoff at the gimmick, this is a legitimate spot with a killer drink list, developed by Ted Charack of Planter’s House fame. A host of knowledgeable bartenders mix drinks that pack a wallop as they make use of the limited space by rubbing elbows (literally) with regulars, serving some seriously addictive concoctions. For summer, try the “Yellow Brick Road” — a take on the classic margarita made with Espolon tequila, Cointreau and jalapeño-infused honey. Keep in mind: tiny operating hours are Wednesday through Saturday from 5 to 10 p.m. That’s not

enough time for an all-night bender, but just right for an after-work nightcap. Like the bar itself, it’s a reminder that we could all do a lot more with far less. Scarlett’s Wine Bar Scarlett’s Wine Bar (4253 Laclede Avenue, 314-797-8223) may not be the first place you think of when it comes to cocktails. After all, the stylish spinoff is a member of the Sasha’s family, a concept that’s so wine-centric it’s encoded in its DNA. It’s not that Scarlett’s strays from that formula (you can certainly still enjoy adult grape juice at the Central West End spot), but its growing cocktail program makes it much more than just a wine bar. Over the past few months, Scarlett’s has distinguished itself from the Sasha’s fold with a beverage list that can hold its own against the town’s better-known craft cocktail bars. Much credit goes to bartender Naomi Roquet, who honed her bar skills at the Libertine and has brought her passion for concocting creative and whimsical libations with her to Scarlett’s. You may go in wanting a brunello, but Scarlett’s drink list will still give you pause — or at least convince you to have cocktail hour first. Katie’s Pizza and Pasta Appropriately enough, Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria (9568 Manchester Road, Rock Hill; 314-942-6555) is known for its handmade pasta dishes and its wood-fired pizzas, but don’t be mistaken: The cocktails at this seemingly always-busy eatery also bring much to the table. Frequently featuring fruit, but not in an overwhelming, cloying way, these drinks are sometimes elaborate, often exciting and always worthy of having another —

or taking advantage of the pitcher option. If a dirty martini is your thing, the Italian version here does not disappoint: The Kalamata juice and prosciutto-wrapped olives could help persuade even martini purists over to the dirty side. n

Scarlett’s Wine Bar | MONICA MILEUR

COOL KIDS

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Eco-Chic Tree House Drinking is usually a pretty good vegetarian/vegan option, but the cocktail offerings at Tree House (3177 South Grand Boulevard, 314-696-2100) are an added delight. The lineup at the Tower Grove South vegetarian and vegan favorite includes smart twists on classics, such as the “Tree House Almond Milk Punch” — a light and tasty version of a traditional milk punch — and the “Rhubarb Rickey,” a refreshing update to the summer gin cocktail. Despite those offerings, Tree House is definitely a restaurant first. Most of space is devoted to table service, as is

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the outdoor patio, but the bar is a perfectly comfortable place to sip a cocktail. Made of reclaimed wood, it extends the clean, casual feel of the rest of the eatery. A chalkboard-style wall provides your drinking options, which include a full wine list and a rotation of craft beers. The place is lively but well-mannered. And from your seat at the bar, you’ll still have a good vantage point for people-watching through the floor-to-ceiling windows at the front of the restaurant. Continued on pg 56

Tree House. | MONICA MILEUR

These hotspots want you to eat your greens — and they provide a great place to drink them, too

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HO USE C O C K TAIL S Tunnel Vision

plantation O.F.T.D, 12 year rum, hibiscus coconut, grapefruit, cane sugar, lime

If She Can’t Dance

SOUTH COUNTY NOW OPEN! THE LOOP

314˜721˜3388 6307 DELMAR BLVD. UNIVERSITY CITY, MO 63130 54

DES PERES 314˜858˜1067 11925 MANCHESTER RD. DES PERES, MO 63131

RIVERFRONT TIMES | BAR GUIDE 2017

SOUTH COUNTY 314˜293˜3614 40 RONNIE’S PLAZA ST. LOUIS, MO 63126

oaxaca flocka flame

vida mezcal, tequila, lime, passionfruit, dry curacao, ancho reyes, mole bitters

golden state

don q anejo, jamaican rum, aperol, nectarine, peach, honey, lime, brut rose

rieger’s gin, dry curacao, coconut, turmeric & ginger, lemon, curry leaf

Mask ON / Mask OFF

pompadour

aged tequila, pineapple rum, charred pineapple, cynar, honey, lime, cilantro, poblano, topo chico

Frank’s Ocean View

cana brava rum, macchu pisco, sherry, pineapple, horseradish, ginger, coconut, lemon, bitters

Same Drugs

old forester signature bourbon, Akashi japanese whiskey, contratto bitter, cocchi amaro, falernum, absinthe

belle meade bourbon, falernum, giffard pink grapefruit, ginger juice, lemon

dinosaur theory

letherbee gin, genepy, kale, pineapple, lemon, chamomile

timber

old forester bourbon, cedar & spruce syrup, angostura, cardamom

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ECO-CHIC

Vicia. | MABEL SUEN

Continued from pg 52

The Garden on Grand To sit on a solid barstool — not some rickety thing with napkins stuffed beneath a short leg — is an unexpected pleasure in any establishment, but the mindful and naturalistic look of the Garden on Grand (2245 South Grand Avenue, 314-898-3788) goes beyond its furniture. Simply put, the bar is a beauty. Cut from a single tree, the gleaming surface provides solid elbow-space and plentiful room for your wine glasses and cocktails. The drinks menu, which has been recently updated, bares the hallmarks of owner Cevin Lee’s goal of building a temple of naturalism on this otherwise humdrum stretch of Grand. The “Pomegranate Gin Fizz,” which combines Pomegranate San Pellegrino, gin and confectionary sugar, goes down as a sweet pleasure with ample kick, and the rest of the

solid cocktail menu takes a similar approach to that most delightful of nature’s gifts — a nice buzz at a pretty bar. Vicia At Vicia (4260 Forest Park Avenue, 314-5539239) — the Cortex newcomer where the gorgeous space is eclipsed only by the almosttoo-pretty-to-eat-yet-totally-scrumptious dishes — stylish cocktails still find room to shine. This celebrated restaurant has an unwavering commitment to the details, to freshness, to being in the moment, and that dedication extends beyond the food offerings into every drink created. Though the ever-evolving cocktail list isn’t extensive, it showcases libations that are elegant and intriguing, yet approachable enough to please a wide range of tastes. Also on the menu are non-alcoholic tonics for those who are wanting something far, far beyond your basic virgin beverage. n

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OVER 30 WINES BY THE GLASS ROTATING SELECTION OF LOCAL DRAFT BEER CLASSIC HANDCRAFTED COCKTAILS 5 DIFFERENT SANGRIA SELECTIONS Premium Happy Hour Monday-Friday 3-6 pm Join us for Brunch Saturdays and Sundays LUNCH | DINNER | BRUNCH BANQUET | CARRYOUT | DELIVERY St. Louis #2 The Boulevard Saint Louis, Richmond Heights, MO 63117 314-824-2402 | maggianos.com

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[

ADVERTORIAL

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ON THE CUTTING EDGE For Randall’s scion, coming home has meant hitting the road — and continuing the company’s history of innovation

BY ERIC BERGER

A

bout five years ago, Todd Randall, a financial analyst, decided it was time to put a cork in the “corporate lifestyle” in San Francisco and return to his hometown to help his dad run the family liquor stores, he says. “When you grow up in a family business and then move away, after a while you’re like, ‘Why am I not there?’ ” says Randall, 29. “I wanted to come back and take something my family built and see what I can do to make it better and help it grow.” Now a vice president of Randall’s Wines & Spirits, the son is working to build a new venture in which the company imports wines — rather than rely on a third party — allowing them to provide unique wines from Europe at cheaper prices than competitors. “There is so much wine out there, and what we decided to do was to go out and find it and bring it back ourselves to give more value to the customer,” says Randall, who helps run the company’s four stores in the city’s McKinley Heights neighborhood, Manchester, north county, and Fairview Heights, Illinois. In some ways, by reshaping the company, Randall is following in his father’s footsteps. When George Randall

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founded Randall’s nineteen years ago, his focus was on Bordeaux futures, in which a person buys that varietal from its namesake region in France a year before its release. He then sold his purchases at his first store in Illinois and online. At that time, online sales of wine were highly unusual. “We’re always looking to be at the cutting edge and transitioning in our business,” says Randall, who started helping at the family’s first location when he was nine years old. As the Bordeaux business blossomed, George Randall started to open more stores and offer a wider array of beers, liquors and wine. While much of the media’s attention in recent years has been focused on the explosion of the craft beer industry, Todd Randall is also intrigued by the growth of the craft spirits market. He tries to keep the company’s stores stocked with bottles from throughout the country. “There has been a big increase in the number of craft distilleries even just in Missouri — let alone the whole United States,” says Randall. The company hosts events and

[

ADVERTORIAL

]

activities throughout the year. In addition to tequila and whiskey tastings in stores on the weekends, Randall’s has also presented dinners at local eateries such as Copia Restaurant and Wine Garden on Washington Avenue, in which sommeliers compete to pair the best wine with each course of a challenging menu. “We try to be a little more fun than other places, whether it’s the big events we do or the tastings or just the atmosphere. If you’re not enjoying yourself and having a little fun in the store, then why are you in this business?” Randall says. And speaking of fun, Randall can’t help but sound excited as he talks about the work he’s doing on the import front. He has visited Europe twice in the last two years, searching for small wineries in France, Italy and Spain. He finds Italian proseccos and pinot grigios; Cote du Rhone and Châteauneuf-du-Papes in France, and Riojas in Spain. If you haven’t heard of some of those varietals, it’s because they are otherwise difficult to find in the United States, Randall says. By importing the wine, Randall’s saves the 25 percent cut that another company would otherwise take. The company also works with a distributor “to get them to take a very small cut, as we are doing all the work.” That means they can sell a reserve Chianti bottle rated 96 out of 100 by Decanter.com for $14.99, “which is pretty unheard of,” Randall says. “The whole goal of this is to go out and fantastic family wineries,” Randall says. “And then we are able to provide those items at fantastic prices.”

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FROZEN When the heat is on, turn to

Favorites Narwhals.| KELLY GLUECK

Narwhal’s When you walk into Narwhal’s Crafted Urban Ice (3906 Laclede Avenue, 314696-8388), your attention is immediately drawn to the bar’s nautical motif. From the walls decorated with old sea anchors to an ocean blue color palate, Narwhal’s is much more elegant than any slushie bar needs to be. Indeed, co-owners Brad Merten and Brandon Holzhueter could have aimed low and grabbed the college crowd, but the business partners (who date their friendship back to their days at Parkway West Middle School) are more ambitious than that — and smart enough to excel

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these delightful bars for a blast of icy refreshment

in the execution. Behind the bar sit twelve slushie machines that boast surprisingly complex drinks, from the “Apple Mint Julep” — a concoction of Kentucky bourbon, Angry Orchard hard apple ale and a bit of mint syrup — to the “Hurricane Tony,” which contains various rums, pineapple and blueberry syrup. The bar also offers a variety of bottled cocktails, selected spirits and a wide variety of domestic and imported brand beers. Since opening less than a year ago, the bar has become a destination in the Midtown area, both for SLU students and a host of city dwellers smart enough to realize that slushies this delicious aren’t just for sorority sisters. Continued on pg 68

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MONDAY -


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Available for purchase at: B & H Market in Pacific Bank Star in Pacific Red Door Liquor and Cigars in Eureka Point Labadie Brewery in Labadie Online: www.pacificmusicfestival.org

RIVERFRONT TIMES | BAR GUIDE 2017

All proceeds to go towards the Pacific River Walk Trail Project.

3153 MORGANFORD RD, ST. LOUIS, MO 63116

|

(314) 772-9800

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Ices Plain & Fancy.| MONICA MILEUR Ices Plain & Fancy.| MONICA MILEUR

enue, enue,314-349-2720) 314-349-2720)is isforfor the theburgers, burgers,well, well,you youare are partially partiallyright. right.InInjust justa a few fewshort shortmonths, months,the thetiny tiny restaurant restaurantmade madefrom fromupupcycled cycledshipping shippingcontaincontainersershas hassolidified solidifieditsitspoposition sitionasasone oneofofthe thecity’s city’s top topspots spotsforforburgers burgersand and fries. fries.However, However,if ifyou’re you’re one oneofofthe theforward-thinkforward-thinking ing folks folks who’ve who’ve been been able abletotoresist resistmaking makingyour your burger burgera atriple tripleininorder order totosave saveroom roomforfora aboozy boozy shake, shake,you youwill willbeberewardrewardededhandsomely. handsomely.Though Though admittedly admittedlynot nota abar, bar,HiHiPointe PointeDrive-In Drive-Inis isa amustmuststop stopforforanyone anyonewho wholikes likes totomix mixa alittle littlesweet sweetwith with their theirsauce. sauce.For Fora amere mere three threebucks, bucks,you youcan canadd add a ashot shotofofliquor liquortotoone oneofof the therestaurant’s restaurant’sthick thickand andcreamy creamymilkmilkshakes. shakes.Butterscotch Butterscotchwith withrum? rum?DreamDreamsicle siclewith withvodka? vodka?Mix Mixand andmatch matchhowhowever everyou youlike likeand andbask baskininthe thejoyjoyofoffeelfeeling inglike likea akid kidand andbeing beinga agrown-up grown-upallall atatthe thesame sametime. time.Owner OwnerMike MikeJohnson Johnson (who (whomade madehishisname nameatatSugarfire SugarfireSmoke Smoke House) House)may maynot nothave have envisioned envisionedthe the spot spot asasa abar, bar,but butthese thesefrosty frostylibations libationsmight might make makeyou youforget forgetyou youwere weresupposed supposedtoto order ordera aburger burgerfirst. first.

FROZEN FROZENFAVORITES FAVORITES Continued Continued from from pgpg 6363

Ices IcesPlain Plain&&Fancy Fancy You Youcan cangetgeta awhite whiteRussian Russiananywhere, anywhere, but butyou’ll you’llhave havetotogogototoIces IcesPlain Plain&& Fancy Fancy(2256 (2256South South39th 39thStreet, Street,314-601314-6013604) 3604)forfora a“Frozen “FrozenDude.” Dude.”The Thecomcombination binationofofvanilla vanillaiceicecream, cream,Kahlúa Kahlúa and andvodka vodkais ispart partofofthe theinnovative innovativeiceice cream creamparlor’s parlor’slineup lineupofof“boozy “boozyices.” ices.” Embedded Embeddedininthe theShaw Shawneighborhood neighborhood about abouttwo twoblocks blocksnorth northofofTower TowerGrove Grove Park, Park,Ices Icestypically typicallyoffers offersnearly nearlya adozdozeneniceicecream creamcocktails cocktailswithin withinitsitsdarling darling confines. confines.These Theseare arenot notalcoholic alcoholicslushslushiesiesororfrozen frozenblender blenderdrinks drinksbut butactual, actual,li-liquor-infused quor-infusediceicecream. cream.Ices Icesmakes makesthem them ——and andplenty plentyofofnon-alcoholic non-alcoholicflavors flavors ——bybyflash-churning flash-churningitsitsiceicecream creamwith with 68

RIVERFRONT TIMES | BAR GUIDE 2017

the thehelp helpofofliquid liquidnitrogen nitrogenand andtorches. torches. It Itgives givesthe thepink-trimmed pink-trimmedshop shopa atouch touch ofofthe thefeel feelofofa ascience sciencelab, lab,ininthe thebest best way. way.There Thereare arefour fourtables tablesinside insideand and another anothereight eightout outfront, front,where whereyou youcan can spoon spoonupupyour yourcocktail cocktailwhile whilerelaxing relaxing under underananumbrella. umbrella.This Thisis isnot notthe thekind kind ofofplace placewhere whereyou youbelly bellyupuptotothe thebar bar forforround roundafter afterround; round;closing closingtime timeis is1010 p.m. p.m.weeknights, weeknights,1111p.m. p.m.ononFridays Fridaysand and Saturdays. Saturdays.But Butif ifyou youwant wanttake takethe theedge edge offoffyour yourbabysitting babysittingduties dutieswith witha a“Mrs. “Mrs. Marshall’s Marshall’sOld OldFashioned,” Fashioned,”it’sit’shard hardtoto imagine imaginea abetter betterplace. place. Hi-Pointe Hi-PointeDrive-In Drive-In If Ifyou youthink thinkthe theline linestretching stretchinghalfhalfway wayout outtotoMcCausland McCauslandAvenue AvenueatatHiHiPointe PointeDrive-In Drive-In(1033 (1033McCausland McCauslandAvAv-

The TheFountain Fountainon onLocust Locust We’ll We’llletletyou youininonona alittle littlesecret: secret:Long Long before beforethe thecity’s city’snouveau nouveauiceicecream cream shops shops started started offering offering boozy boozy flaflavors vorsand andiceicecream-based cream-basedcocktails, cocktails, the theFountain Fountainon onLocust Locust(3037 (3037LoLocust custStreet, Street,314-535-7800) 314-535-7800)was wasononthe the

scene, scene,blending blendingiceicecream creamwith withalcoalcohol holforfora acool cooldose doseofofyum. yum.The Thecity’s city’s O.G. O.G.iceicecream creamparlor parloroffers offersa avoluvoluminous minousmenu menuofof iceicecream creammartimartinis, nis,which whichgogodown downsmooth smoothbut butalso also carry carryquite quitea akick. kick.You Youdon’t don’tneed needtoto love lovechocolate chocolatetotolove lovethis thislist: list:AAgood good number numberofofthese thesemartinis martinisuse usesherbet sherbet asastheir theirbase, base,including includingour ourfavorite, favorite, the the“Raspberry “RaspberryLemondrop,” Lemondrop,”with withitsits fresh freshcrushed crushedberries, berries,raspberry raspberrysorsorbet, bet,lemon lemonsherbet sherbetand andhealthy healthydose dose ofofvodka. vodka.AAroster rosterofofwell-executed well-executed retro retrococktails, cocktails,from fromthe therusty rustynail nailtoto the thesazerac, sazerac,also alsofeel feeljust justright rightininthese these high-spirited, high-spirited,Art ArtDeco Decoenvirons. environs. Clementine’s Clementine’sNaughty Naughty &&Nice NiceCreamery Creamery You Youdon’t don’thave havetotobebea aboozehound boozehound totolove loveClementine’s Clementine’sNaughty Naughty&& Nice NiceCreamery Creamery(1637 (1637South South18th 18th Street Streetand and730 730DeDeMun MunAvenue, Avenue,Clayton; Clayton; 314-858-6100), 314-858-6100),but butcome comeon: on:Anyone Anyone can candodoiceicecream. cream.ItIttakes takesa agenius geniustoto offer offera aspectacular spectacularversion versionthat’s that’salso also spiked spikedwith withtop-notch top-notchbeer, beer,wine wineororli-liquor. quor.Founder FounderTamara TamaraKeefe’s Keefe’spatpatented entedboozy boozyiceicecreams creamsinclude includealcoalcohol-rich hol-richriffs riffsononthe themanhattan, manhattan,the the old oldfashioned fashionedand andeven evena aboozy boozybabanana nanarum. rum.Beer Beerdrinkers drinkerswill willthrill thrilltoto the the“Summer “SummerShandy.” Shandy.”The Theone onewewe can’t can’tget getenough enoughof,of,though, though,is isthe thein-insanely sanelyrich richmaple maplebourbon, bourbon,a aglass glass ofofRebel RebelYell Yellswirled swirledwith withmaple maplesyrsyrup, up,sea seasalt, salt,vanilla vanillaand andsalted saltedcandied candied pecans pecansthat thatsomehow somehowcomes comesininscoop scoop form formwithout withoutlosing losingany anyofofitsitspunch. punch. Yes, Yes,you youcould couldhappily happilygogothe the“nice” “nice” route routeatateither eitherofofKeefe’s Keefe’salways alwayspoppopping pingparlors, parlors,but butwhy whybebea agood goodgirl girl when whennaughty naughtyis isthis thismuch muchfun? fun? nn BAR GUIDE 2017 | RIVERFRONT TIMES

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Pearl Cafe Thai Cuisine • St. Louis, MO

ST. LOUIS’ FAVORITE THAI CUISINE OVER 400 CRAFT BOTTLED BEERS, SINGLE MALT SCOTcH WHISKies, boURBON & RUM!

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OPEN MON-SAT FOR LUNCH & DINNER 70

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8416 N. LINDBERGH BLVD•1 mile north of 270 BAR GUIDE 2017 | RIVERFRONT TIMES pearlstl.com 314.831.3701

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YOU CAN’T DRINK ALL DAY UNLESS YOU START IN THE MORNING!

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BAR GUIDE 2017 | RIVERFRONT TIMES

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More Than MARGARITAS Nixta If the gentle pulse of Latin music, the sultry vibe and the exotic flavors on offer at Nixta (1621 Tower Grove Avenue, 314-8999000) don’t get your heart pounding, then the bar program will certainly do the trick. Like the food that comes out of the kitchen at this fashionable Botanical Heights spot, the drinks are Latin-inflected and daringly modern. Here, there is something for every palate — smoky mezcal-based libations that tingle the tongue with ghost pepper spice; fruity, yet balanced, pineapple and rum concoctions; and a top-notch tequila selection that can be crafted to fit your mood by the professional bartenders or simply sipped neat. Once the clock strikes 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday nights, the restaurant is transformed into Bar Limon, with tables pushed aside to create a dance floor for salsa. It’s a fun touch that gives the neighborhood a vibrant nighttime entertainment destination, though most of the time people are too busy gazing into their dates’ eyes — or drinking their fine cocktails — to pay that much attention to the dance floor. Público Público (6679 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-833-5780) may be a fine-dining restaurant, but the first thing that’ll 74

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catch your attention upon entering is its striking wrap-around bar, which features an intricate back-lit pattern. The second thing you’ll notice will surely be the incredible cocktail menu being served from it. With a nod to traditional Mexican and South American cuisine, tequila, mezcal and rum take center stage in bar manager Nick Digiovanni’s cocktail list, combined with powerhouse flavors such as Creole shrub, bright citrus, smoked salts, chile, ginger, honey and crème de cassis. Even banana makes an appearance. The drink menu is rounded out with a carefully curated selection of Spanish and Argentinian wines, craft beers and good Mexican imports. Everything pairs perfectly with the wood-fired, spit-roasted meats, vegetables and seafood. Cantina Laredo You could walk to Cantina Laredo (7710 Forsyth Boulevard, Clayton; 314-7252447), order a salt-rimmed margarita, sink into a stylish barstool and leave a satisfied customer. You could even change it up a bit and get one infused with strawberry and mint or pineapple or watermelon. When it comes to the unofficial Mexican restaurant standby, they’ve got you covered and then some. However, the drink program at this stylish Clayton bar goes

Nixta. | KELLY GLUECK

These spots offer Latin-American cuisine and some delicious cocktails that go way beyond tequila and sour mix

well beyond the expected, extending into fruit-forward fun that still packs a punch. Cantina Laredo offers an extensive selection of Latin-inspired libations that seem expressly designed to make you feel like you’re on vacation south of the border — that lovely covered outdoor patio doesn’t hurt either. From an impressive sangria to ginger palomas, Cantina Laredo appeals to drinkers who like their cocktails to be a fiesta, albeit a thoughtful and balanced one. Add a top-notch tequila selection, and you’ve got a restaurant and lounge that are not to be missed. Chava’s in Soulard At one point, in a fit of hubris, we taste-tested margaritas at no less than a dozen hotspots all over both city and county. Our verdict can’t totally be trusted, seeing as

we were left reeling by all the tequila we’d downed, but it still bears noting: Chava’s Mexican Restaurant (925 Geyer Avenue, 314-241-5503), we decided, was serving the area’s very best margaritas. This cozy brick-walled Tex-Mex joint in the heart of Soulard has it all going on: friendly service, good food and, yes, pitchers of terrific margaritas. It’s the rare place that offers flavored margaritas (strawberry, mango, raspberry and even pineapple among them) but truly doesn’t suck. Made with fresh-made juice instead of the crappy mixes you might be used to, they’re ridiculously potent and marvelously tasty. And at $24 for a 60-ounce pitcher, they’re a bargain compared to the carefully layered $10 cocktails you’re used to purchasing. We’ll drink to that. Continued on pg 79 BAR GUIDE 2017 | RIVERFRONT TIMES

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NOW OPEN!

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3126 olive street • st. louis, mo 63103 • centericebrewery.com 76

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BAR GUIDE 2017 | RIVERFRONT TIMES

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MORE THAN MARGARITAS

tequila, fresh-squeezed lime juice, agave nectar, dry orange Curaçao and a salted rim. It is a standout of the form. Opt for the mezcal version if you prefer your agave in a variety other than blue; order the “Maestro” for a churched-up variety featuring top-shelf liquor. A frozen option sees the signature version served up slushie-style, and you can even customize your drink with jalapeños or aguas frescas. Pro tip: Nighttime dining at Mission Taco can come with a long wait for a table, especially at the restaurant’s Loop location. Beat that wait by walking up to the carry-out window to order your food, then step into the Mission Bodega — a smaller, attached bar to the right of the main entrance that usually opens around 6 p.m. — for your margarita fix. We won’t judge you if you end up hastily eating your tacos on the sidewalk so you can get back to the bar. n

Mission Taco Joint. | KELLY GLUECK

Continued from pg 75

Mission Taco Joint A good margarita is very nearly as important as the food on offer at any decent taco shack, and luckily Mission Taco Joint (multiple locations including (6235 Delmar Boulevard, 314-932-5430) excels at both. Brothers and co-founders Adam and Jason Tilford opened the first iteration of the eatery in the Delmar Loop in 2013 to great fanfare, and the restaurant’s popularity among critics and customers alike has propelled it to additional locations in the Central West End, Soulard and St. Charles, with a fifth heading west to Kansas City. It’s easy to see why the West Coaststyle hotspot has done so well — those tacos, though — but let’s be sure to show the margs some love, too. Mission Taco offers five varieties: Its signature style features

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BAR GUIDE 2017 | RIVERFRONT TIMES

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FIVE STAR FUN!

Visit fb.com/GatewayEscapeRooms to see our reviews.

We went to do “Murder In A Man Cave” the room was the best escape room I have ever been in. I don’t want to say too much as it might spoil it for others but I will say this room has a lot of hidden treasures. The atmosphere and staff were above and beyond you can tell it is just a fun place to be. - Dr. L

Use coupon code RFT5 and save $5 on an escape room. Ask out staff how to save on your dinner and drinks at a local restraunt and bar in Concord Plaza. Plan a fantastic night out for couples and groups. 82

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BAR GUIDE 2017 | RIVERFRONT TIMES

83


The

Specialists

Taha’a Twisted Tiki.| MONICA MILEUR

Narwhals.| KELLY GLUECK

Why be a jack of all trades when you can excel at one thing? These places have earned the right to boast about their expertise

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Taha’a Twisted Tiki A glance down the menu at Taha’a Twisted Tiki (4199 Manchester Avenue, 314-202-8300) reveals a run of cocktails bursting with coconut, pineapple, lime and — we can’t emphasize this enough — enough rum to sink a battleship. In operation since 2013 as the region’s only French-Polynesian-inspired tiki bar, this converted house in the Grove bears all the hallmarks of its eponymous theme, from a thatched awning above the bar to ceiling-hung lights glinting from the mouths of pufferfish. You’ll find smooth sailing through the list of classic tiki cocktails, and the “twisted” menu adds an array of flavors and liquors to an already plentiful mix. If you’ve got two or three friends — or maybe just one really thirsty one — make room on the table for a volcano bowl, a generous basin of fruits soaked in booze that’s dotted with umbrellas. Oh yeah, and it’s also lit on fire. And as everybody knows, fire and booze is the way to start a night right. Gamlin Whiskey House A killer patio on one of the best people-watching corners in St. Louis, a massive selection of whiskey, hip music, a Continued on pg 88 BAR GUIDE 2017 | RIVERFRONT TIMES 85


601 Clark St. • 314-345-9880 cardinalsnation.com FIRST BOT TLED BOURBON.

$3 Drinks on Thursdays 4-10pm on non home game days

Unlimited Food & Drink at Pregame Parties before every home game: cardinals.com/pregame

PLEASE SIP RESPONSIBLY. | RESPONSIBILIT Y.ORG Old Forester Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whisky, 43% Alc. by Volume. Distilled & Bottled by Old Forester Distilling Co. at Louisville in Kentucky. OLD FORESTER is a registered trademark. ©2017 Brown-Forman Distillers. All rights reserved. Code: #570-2242.

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Happy Hour Monday-Friday 3-7pm on non home game days BAR GUIDE 2017 | RIVERFRONT TIMES

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Continued from pg 85

great cocktail menu, delicious food — Gamlin Whiskey House (236 North Euclid Avenue, 314-875-9500) is a destination for anyone looking for a fun night out. But for whiskey lovers, it’s truly the top, a repeat winner for “Best Whiskey Selection,” a USA Today “best bar for whiskey lovers” and home to a killer list of bottles. Try out a variety with a whiskey flight (Gamlin offers several) or sample a sazerac done right. The weekend brunch features Southern-inspired food (biscuits, pimento cheese, a fried tomato sandwich), while the dinner menu includes hearty American dishes, from house-made toasted ravioli to pork steak. The music gets louder and the crowd gets buzzier here as the night goes on, so if you’d like to sip that finely aged Scotch in contemplative quiet, best get here early. The Gin Room When you walk into the Gin Room (3200 South Grand Boulevard, 314-7713411), your eyes will immediately fix on the stunning rose-hued backbar that soars all the way to the ceiling. It’s an aesthetic masterpiece, but once you realize that every last bottle is filled with gin, the scene is utterly awe-inspiring. This impressive collection belongs to proprietor Natasha Bahrami, the selfstyled “Gin Girl” who turned a passion for the botanical spirit into the city’s — if not the country’s — preeminent gin establishment. For three years, she’s been sharing her knowledge with the thirsty patrons of her south city 88

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bar, helping gin neophytes find their style, getting into the weeds with seasoned imbibers and concocting housemade tonics for her thoughtful cocktails. The drink selection alone makes this a must-visit for cocktail aficionados. Add the world-class Persian food being served out of the Gin Room’s adjacent sister concept, Café Natasha, and it’s perhaps the best pairing of food and beverage St. Louis has to offer. Sub Zero Vodka Bar Yes, many mixologists turn up their nose at vodka — how creative can you get with a drink that’s meant to be flavorless? But these snooty bartenders have clearly never seen the hundreds of varieties of the stuff available at Sub Zero Vodka Bar (308 North Euclid Avenue, 314367-1200), the burger-and-sushi hotspot packing in crowds of revelers in the Central West End. Here you can try vodka infused with everything from smoked oak to rainbow sherbet, from açaí to birthday cake to sriracha. And it’s not all about shots (though you’ll certainly see plenty of people doing those). Drinks such as the “Hawaiian Punch” combine tropical punch vodka with pineapple and cranberry juice and Sprite, while nearly a dozen martini options offer everything from the savory (“Black-n-Bleu,” with Tito’s Dirty Martini vodka and blue cheesestuffed olives) to the super-sweet (try the “Oreo Cookie,” with vanilla bean vodka, Godiva white and dark chocolate liqueurs and, yes, actual Oreos). There’s always a party at Sub Zero, and with more than 500 vodkas on offer, there is always, always something new to drink.n

The Gin Room. | MONICA MILEUR

SPECIALISTS

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1920’S SPEAKEASY MODERN TWIST BURLESQUE SHOWS EVERY FIRDAY & SATURDAY DINNER SHOWS: 7PM LATE NIGHT SHOW: 10:30PM PERFECT FOR BACHELOR & BACHELORETTE PARTIES, BIRTHDAY PARTIES AND DATE NIGHTS!

500 N. 14TH STREET 314-436-7000 For more information and to reserve tickets visit theboomboomroomstl.com 90

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BAR GUIDE 2017 | RIVERFRONT TIMES

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CHEROKEE STREET’S ORIGINAL DESTINATION FOR TACOS AND ICE CREAM T WO L A RG E PAT I O S • I N DO O R & PATIO B AR H A PPY H O U R 2 - 6 PM MO N-THUR S

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Club Taco. | MABEL SUEN

La Vallesana Friends & Neighbors

No need to drive downtown to taste the magic. These spots keep us hydrated closer to home Club Taco While there’s a small number of tables inside at Club Taco (200 North Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood; 314-858-1488), the patio is the best place to enjoy this fast-casual restaurant’s tasty drinks and tacos. The skilled bartenders focus on fresh ingredients for their sangrias, margaritas, martinis and more. The watermelon and basil margarita and cucumber mint crush are especially refreshing. Getting hungry? Despite the “taco” in the name, Club Taco isn’t a Mexican joint. Instead, the menu includes more than twenty tacos featuring everything 92

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from calamari (the “It’s All Greek to Me”) to Southern fried turkey breast (the “Gobble Gobble”). This casual Kirkwood joint offers happy hour Monday through Friday from 3 to 6 p.m.; grab a seat on that huge patio and get to drinking. Prasino If you think folks are only serious about their cocktails on the St. Louis side of the river, then you haven’t been to Prasino (1520 South Fifth Street, St. Charles; 636-277-0202). Located in a St. Charles strip mall just across the Blanchette Bridge, this eco-chic restaurant serves a bevy of thoughtful cocktails in its stylish, modern lounge. The place to see and be seen in St. Charles County, Prasino entices with a thoughtful drink list that appeals to every palate. Bourbon lovers should try the “Smoke ‘Em If you Got ‘Em,” a concoction that employs charred red pepper syrup and a smoked glass. Classic daiquiris, thirst-quenching sangria and martinis are all good options at this trendsetting bar, but a visit to Prasino is not complete Continued on pg 96 BAR GUIDE 2017 | RIVERFRONT TIMES

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FRIENDS AND NEIGHBORS

Cyrano’s Cafe Full of quirky charm and gorgeous, decadent drinks and desserts, this Webster Groves gem with a European vibe is a great place to head for a special occasion. The cocktail menu at Cyrano’s Cafe (603 East Lockwood Avenue, Webster Groves; 314-963-3232) features nearly 40 concoctions. The happy hour offers half-price beer and wine and $5 martinis — yes, really! — from 4-7 p.m. Monday through Friday. Cocktails on offer include retro classics, including Cyrano’s take on the gin fizz and the dark and stormy, plus margaritas, cosmopolitans, manhattans and several dessert martinis. Salted caramel and booze? We’re in.

Continued from pg 95

612 Kitchen & Cocktails Once the home of Kirkwood mainstay Graham’s Grill, 612 Kitchen & Cocktails (612 West Woodbine Avenue, Kirkwood; 314-9652003) got a stylish remodel, transforming itself from a local watering hole into a bona fide destination. The former spot’s Cajun vibe has given way to a vintage speakeasy atmosphere, complete with killer cocktails. This is the place to go if you’re west of Lindbergh and in need of a manhattan, though palates that prefer more fruit-forward libations will also be at home here. From sazeracs to sangria, there is something for everyone. Old Mill Stream Drinking at the Old Mill Stream (912 South Main Street, St. Charles; 636-946-3287) will transport you back in time. The vintage establishment has been located in Old Town St. Charles for more than 25 years, a bulwark for those in need of a stiff, quiet drink. At the street level, patrons can enjoy pub-style eats for a quick, sit-down meal, but the main bar downstairs is where true locals gather. Descend the wooden staircase to a dog-friendly, all-brick patio underneath a canopy of trees and hop down into the basement bar, where the door is always open for regulars and newcomers alike. Inside, dim light bounces off antiquated stone walls, the bar wood is weathered dark by the storm of smokers past and bartenders get down to 96

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Billy G’S. | JENNIFER SILVERBERG

without trying the “Cheshire Tea.” Made with gin, St. Germain and lavender and ginger-infused tea, this beautiful drink is a feast for the eyes as much as the palate. The drink is chilled by a frozen orchid bloom, and lest you think you’re just seeing the reflection of the lights of Ameristar across the way, its ethereal glow actually comes from the LEED coaster on which it rests.

brass tacks pouring strong libations from an extensive drink list. No cross-country selection of beer taps here, as evidenced by the endless row of cans and bottles above the bar. Instead, it’s just like things used to be. Billy G’s The word “scene” may seem like an odd descriptor for a bar and grill in Kirkwood. After all, this is a neighborhood known more for its top-rated schools and wholesome Americana feel than bottle service and happening nightlife. However, the moment you step into Billy G’s (131 West Argonne Drive, Kirkwood; 314-984-8000), you’ll witness an atmosphere

that could rival any of downtown’s trendy nightclubs. On any given night, Billy G’s is a “who’s who” of Kirkwood: Moms eschew Lululemon in favor of Tori Burch, and the dads — well, they’re probably still in khaki shorts and golf shirts. But they’re definitely here to have fun. The place is perpetually packed, offering one of the best places in the mid-county suburbs to grab a “Greentree Mojito” or any number of signature cocktails. And just as good as the drinks is the stunning outdoor patio. This massive space, outfitted with outdoor fireplaces and upscale furniture, is the perfect place to see and be seen in this slice of the county.

BJ’s Bar and Restaurant BJ’s Bar and Restaurant (184 Washington Street, Florissant; 314-837-7783) is a family affair, through and through. The brick corner bar in Florissant has been operated by the same north county clan since 1955, when owner Jay Russell — the “J” in the name — first took the reins. (Russell died last year; his children operate the bar now.) Less a cocktail destination than a glorious monument to no-bullshit drinking, BJ’s is damn near iconic in north county thanks to both its longevity and the gigantic Stag Beer awning on the outside of the building. But even if “Steak Taters and Gravy” isn’t your thing, don’t worry: Thanks to the makeshift convenience store behind the bar, you’re just a few purchases away from mixing up your own drinks. (Only $22 for a gallon of Ten High! Goes good with Coke and more Ten High.) Drink prices are kept intentionally dirt-cheap in order to subsidize the establishment’s tasty pizza endeavors — one of the best thin-crust pizzas you’ll find in the whole metro area, in fact. A delicious cocktail made by an experienced mixologist is great and all, but a delicious slice of pizza with a whiskey-heavy drink you make for yourself ? That’s priceless. n BAR GUIDE 2017 | RIVERFRONT TIMES

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LIVE ON

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August and September, bring your lawn chair, blanket or relax on Central’s front steps. Coolers are welcome! Concerts begin at 7 p.m.*

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Massie (Blues)

October through December concerts held in CENTRAL LIBRARY’S AUDITORIUM. Doors open at 6:30 p.m. Concerts begin at 7 p.m. Seating is first-come, first-served.

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Retreat Gastropub. |j ELIZABETH PHOTOGRAPHY

Mezcal Madness

Move over, mojitos. This summer, mezcal is where it’s at, and these ten cocktails are simply smokin’

I

BY SARA GRAHAM f you’re a regular visitor to St. Louis’ trendier bars and restaurants, you’ve likely noticed more mezcal on the cocktail menus of late. The classic Mexican spirit has become a go-to ingredient for bartenders thanks to its unique, earthy flavor and artisanal heritage. And while you may associate mezcal with tequila, they have distinct differences — all tequila is mezcal, but not all mezcal is tequila. Tequila must be made from blue agave that comes from five particular regions in Mexico. Mezcal can be made from more than 30 varieties of agave, including blue agave, grown in a broader swath of the country. Mezcal has been around for centuries and is still crafted with traditional production methods (at least premium mezcals are — these are the bottles without the worm, a tourist gimmick). Whereas the harvested agave hearts (called pinas) used in the production of tequila are cooked in large industrial ovens, mezcal pinas are cooked in large, underground pits lined with volcanic rock. The pinas are piled in, covered with dirt and cooked over several days. (That produces mezcal’s unmistakable smoky flavor.) The pinas are then crushed on a stone wheel pulled by a donkey. Both tequila and mezcal are aged inside oak barrels, though the duration varies. Intrigued? Read on for the best mezcal cocktails being served in St. Louis this summer. Continued on pg 104 100

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Público 6679 Delmar Boulevard, University City A nod to Prince, “Smoke on Lake Minnetonka” was created by bar manager Nick Digiovanni as a refreshing summer cocktail with depth. Smoky Alipus Santa Ana Del Rio mezcal pairs well with the full-bodied Muroise, a loganberry liquor. Fresh lime provides a bright acidity, apple brandy Calvados a subtle sweetness, Velvet Falernum a mellow tropical spice, and absinthe balances it all with a pop of anise. Retreat Gastropub 6 North Sarah Street, Central West End The “Oaxaca Flocka Flame” is a tribute to Oaxaca, the region in Mexico where most agave used in mezcal is grown. It’s also, of course, a play on the name of hip-hop’s Waka Flocka Flame. Combining Vida mezcal, blanco tequila, Ancho Reyes chile liqueur, dry curaçao, passionfruit, lime juice and mole bitters, the cocktail is a refreshing balance of sweetness and spice with a tart finish. Randolfi’s 6665 Delmar Boulevard, University City “Pen Fifteen,” from head bartender Jeffrey Moll, resulted from a guest request for a smoky, herbaceous cocktail. Nuestra Soledad mezcal is combined with the Italian herbal liqueur Amaro Lucano, yellow chartreuse, muddled sage, fresh lime and a mango and habanero shrub. Spice and tang provide intrigue, while the chartreuse stands up to the savory Lucano Amaro. Mission Taco Joint Multiple locations, including 6235 Delmar Boulevard, the Loop Summer cocktails are always in season at Mission Taco Joint. The “Oaxacan Firing 104

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Squad” was inspired by the traditional cocktail “the Mexican Firing Squad” — only El Buho mezcal replaces tequila. House-made grenadine includes black peppercorn, lemon peel, vanilla bean and pomegranate juice — hefty flavor that stands up well to mezcal. Angostura bitters add depth. Nixta 1621 Tower Grove Avenue, Botanical Heights The “Catorce” is a boozy, stirred cocktail that showcases both mezcal and Fernet Vallet, an apéritif made in Mexico featuring intensely bitter and woody tones. Cocchi Torino vermouth sets this drink in the approachable realm of a manhattan, while the Ancho Reyes liqueur adds a sweetness to balance the bitterness. It also provides a pleasant lingering heat that pairs well with the smoke of mezcal. Vista Ramen 2609 Cherokee Street, Cherokee District A unique cocktail for an Asian-influenced restaurant, the “Strawberry Mezcal” was created as a special for this year’s Cinco de Mayo festival on Cherokee, but everyone liked it so much, it stuck. It’s easy to see why — Del Maguey Vida mezcal mixes well with the bitter apertif Bruto Americano, strawberry syrup and dried lime. This one is a keeper. Planter’s House 1000 Mississippi Avenue, Lafayette Square “Translation...Lost” was inspired by the Sofia Coppola movie Lost in Translation. Japanese whiskey is a nod to the movie’s setting, and in keeping with its theme, Alipus San Andres mezcal represents an opposite culture. The other flavors — Big O Ginger Liqueur, apricot liqueur and Burlesque bitters — enhance both bases, with spice, ginger and fruit present in both.

Sardella 7734 Forsyth Boulevard, Clayton The “Gotta Have It,” created by bartender Phil Ingram, was inspired by the classic cocktail “Blood & Sand.” Blended scotch is swapped out for Nuestra Soledad Joven mezcal, while fresh lime juice takes the place of orange juice. A ghost pepper tincture from Dirty Girl Farms gives it spice, and Burlesque bitters add a little sultriness. Heering cherry liqueur lends the drink a deep red hue. Milagro Modern Mexican 20 Allen Avenue #130, Webster Groves The “Oaxacan Sunset” was inspired by the renowned sunsets of the Oaxaca coastline in Mexico. The rich orange is mean to transport the drinker to the beach during as the sun sets, with drink in hand. Del Maguey Crema de Mezcal does the heavy lifting, while Plantation Pineapple rum, fresh lime and passion fruit juice and Angostura bitters add appeal. Blood & Sand 1500 St. Charles Street, Downtown “This Time Tomorrow” is a versatile drink that shows off the power of mezcal in cocktails, something refreshing and complex with flavors of smoke, cane sugar, dried fruit and tannins. The mezcal is infused with Darjeeling black tea and then paired with Yzaguirre Rojo vermouth, Velvet Falernum, fresh lemon juice and Dirty Girl Farms’ Spring Bitters. n

Nixta. | SARA GRAHAM

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days — which ometimes, gives you the you want perfect excuse wine. And to visit more often. sometimes, you want BY ELIZABETH SEMKO Past flavors have ina little something, well, cluded apple cinnaextra. Enter sangria: mon, watermelon cherThe wine gods’ answer for ry, peach mint, pineapple when a basic glass just won’t mango, strawberry lemon and cut it. This flavorful concoction more. Go wild and buy a pitcher. of wine and fruit can be found on drink menus all around the city, but Sister Cities Cajun & BBQ as with any drink list, some are better than When you order sangria at Sister Cities others. That’s why we’ve rounded up some Cajun & BBQ (3550 South Broadway, 314of our favorite sangrias around St. Louis. 405-0447) you’re in for something unique: From white wine to red, classic recipes to Co-owner Pamela Melton likes to mix all-new flavors, these sangrias are sure to things up, regularly creating new flavors make your summer drink of choice anywith infused liquors and exotic or seasonal thing but ordinary. fruits. Rather than using sugar or simple syrup, the drink is sweetened by juicing or Onesto Pizza and Trattoria pressing the fruit and then adding various If you like your drinks with a side of variliquors. The sangrias come with fun ety, Onesto (5401 Finkman Street, 314-802names, too — past flavors have included 8883) should be on your list. Made with red “Bellini Sangria,” “Pineapple Upsideor white wine, rum and fruit puree, the flaDown Sangria” and “Orange Is the New vor of sangria on offer at this south Blackberry.” city Italian restaurant changes every few Continued on pg 112 BAR GUIDE 2017 | RIVERFRONT TIMES

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Onesto. | PHOTO BY CAROL LARA PHOTOGRAPHY FOR ONESTO PIZZA & TRATTORIA

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SANGRIA

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tic tapas experience along with your drink. Made with red wine, brandy and either triple sec or simple syrup, the sangria here also includes orange juice, macerated apples, oranges and lemon. Order it by the glass for $5.50 or a 1.5-liter pitcher for $21.50, and taste why it’s the restaurant’s best-seller.

Guido’s Pizzeria and Tapas You could say the sangria at Guido’s Pizzeria and Tapas (5046 Shaw Avenue, 314771-4900) is a family tradition: For twenty years the restaurant has been pouring the same recipe, created by owner Miguel Carretero’s father. The family isn’t about to give away all the particulars, but they will say that it’s made in big batches with a blend of Burgundy and Chianti, triple sec, Sprite, apples and oranges. Try it along with Guido’s Spanish or Italian dishes, and transport yourself to the Mediterranean.

Wild Flower Located in the heart of the Central West End, Wild Flower (4590 Laclede Avenue, 314367-9888) is the perfect spot to get your sangria fix while people-watching on the sidewalk patio. Peach is this year’s summer flavor, with peaches and strawberries soaked in Flora de Cana white rum, then combined with Cointreau, Grand Marnier, pinot noir and sparkling moscato. The sangria changes seasonally, too, so you always have good reason for a return trip. Mango Peruvian Cuisine Long a downtown mainstay, Mango Peru112

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Prasino. | JENNIFER SILVERBERG

The Weingarten A “winery by day, wine bar by night,” the Weingarten (1780 IL-15, Belleville, Illinois; 618-257-9463) is a perfect escape, with a beautiful outdoor setting just minutes from the big city. And no matter the season, the Belleville destination has a sangria to complement your lazy afternoon or night out: The Weingarten’s “Signature Strawberry Sangria,” which is made with a blush wine, is served in the spring and summer, while the “Apple Streusel Sangria,” made with a red blend, keeps the party going in the fall and winter.

Prasino Red or white wine? You can indulge in both at Prasino (1520 South Fifth Street, St. Charles; 636-277-0202), which serves two sangrias. The red version includes cabernet and a seasonal berry syrup, while the white is made with chardonnay, passion fruit and gin. Prasino serves its sangria all day (including on the happy hour menu!) and also offers it in batches for private events.

vian Cuisine (1001 Washington Avenue, 314621-9993) gives diners an authentic taste of Peru in addition to an excellent sangria. Mango makes its sangria with garnacha, citrus vodka, simple syrup, lime juice, orange juice and cinnamon, then garnishes it with diced apples, oranges and lime. For the ultimate treat, order it for just $6 a glass or $18 for a pitcher during happy hour Monday through Friday from 4 to 6 p.m. Sanctuaria Wild Tapas Sanctuaria Wild Tapas (4198 Manchester Avenue, 314-535-9700) describes itself as a “sanctuary in the city,” and we’re inclined to agree. At this mixology mecca, the sangria is actually the Spanish drink zurracapote, made with red wine, stone fruit, sugar, cinnamon

and lemon. Enjoy a glass along with one of Sanctuaria’s shareable small plates. Russell’s on Macklind With a lovely patio, cozy fireplaces and a menu laden with local ingredients, Russell’s on Macklind (5400 Murdoch Avenue, 314-553-9994) is a go-to spot no matter the season. The sangria, which is more dry than the other options around town, is our drink of choice. Crisp wine, brandy, lemon and limited amounts of simple syrup keep the flavor of the fruit front and center. BARcelona Run off to Spain for an evening at BARcelona (34 North Central Avenue, Clayton; 314863-9909), where you’ll be served an authen-

Sasha’s Sasha’s (two locations, including 706 De Mun Avenue, Clayton; 314-863-7274) is a favorite among wine lovers, with good reason. Sure, this wine bar offers an iPad menu full of varietals, but anyone with a taste for sangria should be sure to give it a try as well. The two locations have different versions of both red and white; at Sasha’s on Shaw, the white is served year-round and features a house white blend, white rum, apples, oranges, blackberries and strawberries. The De Mun version appears in spring and summer, mixing pinot grigio, rum, triple sec, pineapple juice and lemonade. Pi Pizzeria Sure, Pi Pizzeria (multiple locations, including 400 North Euclid Avenue, 314-367-4300) boasts a cornmeal crust pizza beloved by former President Obama, but the food isn’t the only thing that deserves your attention. Pi’s sangria is made with Burgundy, limoncello, Italy’s beloved Tuaca liqueur and sweet vermouth — and you can get it for $5.95 from 3 to 6 p.m. Monday through Friday. n BAR GUIDE 2017 | RIVERFRONT TIMES

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The 10 Best Dive Bars in St. Louis True bars for real drinkers — what could be better?

BY RFT STAFF ast year, we published a complete guide to the city’s dive bars — but as we realized while researching it, not all bars are created equal. From Des Peres to Charlack, Bevo Mill to Northampton, these ten bars are our staff’s very favorites.

L

The Silverleaf Lounge You should probably just make the Silverleaf Lounge (3442 Hereford Street, 314-4814080) your regular bar. The company is good, the confines cozy and the beer cheap and cold. Nearly hidden mid-block on a oneway street in the Northampton neighborhood, the Silverleaf has been a destination for generations of St. Louis drinkers. The bar outmaneuvered the tyranny of Prohibition with a brief run as an ice cream parlor in the 1930s — the wooden coolers remain — but its true nature as a great neighborhood tavern is unmistakable. No less than Esquire wrote it up in 2015. Even with the national media attention, though, the location out of sight of Kingshighway commuters has kept the clientele to neighbors within walking distance and first responders, who are welcomed by owner Ron Damery, himself a retired firefighter. The entire place is the size of a living room, with nine bar stools 116

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and four pub tables. Allegiances include America, the St. Louis Cardinals and Elvis Presley. Fortify yourself with a Ziploc bag of mild or spicy beef jerky for $2. Wash it down with a $1.50 Natural Light draft. Just Bill’s Located in the heart of scenic downtown Overland at the intersection of Woodson and Midland (OK, maybe not that scenic), Just Bill’s (2543 Woodson Road, Overland; 314-427-2999) is as true-blue a dive as you can get. Just head on into the bathrooms if you need proof. There you will find some of the most creative/appalling graffiti in town (a splotch of errant red paint in the men’s room has a note written next to it reading “Sorry about the accident” and marked with a lady’s name — so, super classy). Meanwhile the drinks are dirt-cheap (if you don’t fear the bottom shelf, a fiver will get you a beer, a mixed drink and most of a tip) and owner/bartender Robin Field won’t even complain if you get too sloshed and start drunkenly calling him “Bill.” What really makes Just Bill’s stand out, however, is its stage and venue area. Though often underutilized, the space makes for a great place to perform or to watch others do so, and it has hosted plenty of excellent acts over the years, including a stop last summer by legendary punk band the Queers. Iowa Buffet Three blocks south of the ever-evolving Cherokee Street district is the blessedly never-changing Iowa Buffet (2727 Winnebago Street, 314-776-8000). Glass block windows, old-school Budweiser lights — most of which worked on our recent visit — and some scruffy wainscoting give the Gravois Park establishment a 1970s feeling. There is no buffet, but a pretty solid cheeseburger cooked on a small broiler at the end of the long bar costs just $3. Come back on Satur-

day when they barbecue out back. (You like pork steak, right? Of course you do.) The customers include a mix of hipsters who’ve wandered south and old man regulars from the neighborhood. They’ll make you feel comfortable, especially if you don’t ask them to change the channel when auto racing is on. Drink for cheap with $1.75 bottles of Stag or a $2 Busch. If you want to take the party home, feel free to buy a half pint of Rich & Rare whisky for $3.75 or drop $6.50 on Seagrams.

ers a taste of the down and dirty fun they missed. Known for its loud and grungy local shows and cheap booze ($1.50 stags and massive $9 “gin buckets”), CBGB gets patrons ready to jam and slam. It’s dark as hell, though the shadows are concealing a decent game area (darts, shuffleboard, arcade games, pinball) to keep you occupied on the slower nights. Heads up to female patrons: the ladies bathroom has no dividers. But what could be more punk than pissing in front of a stranger?

Village Bar Through the tiny front-door window at Village Bar (12247 Manchester Road, Des Peres; 314-821-4532), you can glimpse the outlines of upper-middle class suburbia: a fancy mall, a high-end yoga studio. They appear dreamlike — in part because the cigarette smoke stains on the glass blur the view, but mostly because they seem a lifetime away. They’re actually two lifetimes away. Erected as the first building in the area back in the 1800s, the Village Bar’s outdoor barn has been around since Manchester was a dirt road. The bar’s current digs, a wooden storefront that faces the road, has been a watering hole for Des Peres residents since 1948 — well before it became an “it” zip code. The bartender, Rich, hasn’t been there that whole time, but he’s clocked more than a couple of decades and has watched time leave the place behind — which is exactly why it’s so beloved. The cheap burgers and best-in-town onion rings don’t hurt either.

Rhonda’s Place If not for the pole in the corner of the room, surrounded by mirrored walls and framed in blue rope lighting, Rhonda’s Place (10528 Page Avenue, Overland; 314-423-0633) would be largely indistinguishable from any other north county dive bar — albeit one where the ladies in the house seem to be a bit under-dressed. A TouchTunes jukebox here, a pool table there, a Golden Tee machine (of course!). But Rhonda’s gets extra points for being one of the only St. Louis-area gentlemen’s clubs (read: pastie bars) this side of the Mississippi. The atmosphere is as relaxed as you’d expect from any great dive, with the employees mingling in a less-than-overtly-sexual way with their patrons, shooting pool or just shooting the shit in between dances. Drinks are dirt-cheap, too — freeing your singles up to pay for the night’s entertainment.

CBGB Looking to get some teenage kicks? CBGB (3163 South Grand Boulevard, no phone number) will take punk rockers back to the time when all they cared about was how dirty their Chucks looked and where to find the cheapest beer — and give younger drink-

San Bar Tavern For more than 50 years, San Bar Tavern (9441 Lackland Road, Overland; 314427-9750) has been a welcoming go-to for thirsty residents of Overland and beyond, slinging cheap drinks in a warm, inviting atmosphere. And for 26 of those years, owner Kay Genail has been helming the ship. Charming and kind, Genail has decorated her bar to her own Continued from pg 120 BAR GUIDE 2017 | RIVERFRONT TIMES

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The Original Craft Cocktail Bar

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4140 MANCHESTER AVE. ST. LOUIS, MO 63110 314.775.0775

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5213 Chippewa St • Saint Louis, MO 63109 (314) 832-2211 BAR GUIDE 2017 | RIVERFRONT TIMES

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unique and quirky tastes. That means a seriously impressive collection of Cardinals bobbleheads, a fair number of beer signs and even a living room area complete with a sectional couch that Genail refers to as “the VIP lounge.” She says most of her patrons walk here from their homes, and she’s quick to tout the bar’s history, pulling out a weathered map, dated 1903, that shows the area’s property lines as they stood more than 100 years ago. “I really should frame this so it doesn’t get all booger-y,” she remarks. Frame or no, the map is just one piece of proof that this delightful watering hole is here to stay. Here’s to another hundred years, San Bar. Colorado Bob’s Ship of Fools Ahoy, matey! When you’re crawling your way down Morganford’s row of low-key neighborhood bars, don’t forget to dive into Colorado Bob’s Ship of Fools (3457 Morganford Road, 314-772-7564). You probably know this nautical-themed bar by that ship jettisoned out front. But what you may not know is that there actually is a Bob, a remarkable captain with wonderful stories and a kind heart. Bob’s bar is full of familiar faces — and a crew that’s among the best in town. Friendly banter and cheap drink specials ($10 buckets, $2.50 wells and $2.75 shot specials) both go well with the local food favorites on offer here, which include Imo’s, TJ’s, homemade jerky and, on a good night, some smoked chicken with Bob’s award-winning BBQ rub. Charlack Pub Charlack Pub (8334 Lackland Road, Charlack; 314-423-8119) is a bona fide north county institution. The cozy little dive, situated just off St. Charles Rock Road, is a 120

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long-time haven for lovers of motorcycles (a recent Saturday night saw more than 30 bikes parked in its small lot, a not uncommon occurrence) as well as north county dwellers looking for a stiff drink at a cheap price. A small stage in the corner regularly hosts live bands for an audience seated at a handful of small tables, while a TouchTunes machine kicks out the classic-rock jams when that stage is empty, though owner Judy Breeding still laments losing the old-fashioned, curated jukebox that it replaced. Along with her husband John, Breeding opened the spot in 2000, the two of them operating together in a hands-on fashion that has won them serious customer loyalty over the years. John passed away a few years ago and Judy helms the ship alone now, but she insists that “aside from losing my partner and my husband of many years, nothing has really changed.” That means cheap drinks, great music and good times had by all who walk through the doors. Long live the Charlack Pub. Tim’s Chrome Bar Many great dive bars — and we mean real dive bars, not the faux kind that corporate America has been selling of late — have Christmas decorations in July, tables and chairs straight out of a Knights of Columbus hall and a layer of smoke caked onto the walls so thick, it doesn’t even matter if anyone has lit up recently. Tim’s Chrome Bar (4736 Gravois Avenue, 314-353-8138), God bless its hard-partying heart, has all three, plus cheap drinks poured with a heavy hand. And did we mention it also has a lively crowd of older St. Louisans who live to drink up and get down on the dance floor to the house band, the winningly titled Hot Property? Oh yes. This lounge deep in the heart of Bevo Mill is a keeper. Just don’t forget to hit an ATM first, because true dives don’t want to mess with your silly credit cards. n

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