BITES

First Look: Tutto Carne, now open in Little Italy

By Douglas Trattner

“I’M REALLY EXCITED ABOUT this,” says Zachary Ladner. “It’s going to be a lot of fun.”

We’re standing in the red-brick corner property in Little Italy that has been home to a handful of restaurants over the years including Salvatore’s, Tutto Giorno, Il Bacio and Nora. And which as of Monday, May 15, is now Tutto Carne. The Italian-themed steakhouse is operated by Ladner and Carl Quagliata, the chef-owners behind Giovanni’s, Smokin’ Q’s BBQ, Paloma and The Village Butcher.

After changing hands last year, the property at the corner of Murray Hill and Edgehill has been completely transformed into a stylish and sophisticated 45-seat bistro. Everything but the four walls has been touched, including the bar, which has been rebuilt as an elegant seven-seat quartz-topped beauty.

Guests will be encouraged to linger thanks to posh and plush velvet-wrapped chairs. New tables, banquettes, light fixtures, artwork and wall colors combine to give this space its best look ever.

“I had a lot to do with the design and implementation of the place and I love reusing things,” Ladner explains. “We’re going for a mix of old and new. The vast majority of our flatware and silverware is all reclaimed and vintage. The intentionality, I think, is what makes it interesting.”

Chef de cuisine Ryan O’Driscoll oversees a steakhouse-style menu that benefits greatly from the owners’ sister establishment, The Village Butcher.

“All of the meats are coming from the butcher shop,” Ladner says. “It gives us a lot more control over the product.”

For example, tables can opt for shareable large-format steaks like a 100-day dry-aged tomahawk ribeye, a 60-day dry-aged “3-fingerthick” bistecca alla Fiorentina and a Chateubriand. Those dishes arrive on real silver platters.

“We want to have this old-school feel,” says the owner.

A selection of other steaks and chops is joined by items like seared halibut with littleneck clams in horseradish broth, pan-seared scallops with bacon, potato and spring pea pesto, and a dry-aged beef burger topped with taleggio, short rib onions, bacon and special sauce.

For pasta fans, Ladner and his team have assembled a roster of classic dishes.

“These are traditional pastas, but they are all executed really well,” he says.

Housemade ravioli is stuffed with ricotta and spring peas, spaghetti carbonara stars guanciale cured at the butcher shop, lobster fra diavolo stars, well, lobster, along with tomatoes, garlic and chilies.

Sides, designed to be shared, include staples like pommes puree, French beans, creamed spinach, roasted mushrooms and a baked potato, but don’t expect the same-old preparation, promises Ladner.

“While they are not complicated, per se, a significant amount of thought has been put into them to make them the best representation of what that item is,” he says.

To begin, there are classic chophouse starters like steak tartare, oysters on the half shell, shrimp cocktail and roasted bone marrow, but also Coquilles St. Jacques and veal sweetbreads. The kitchen is skirting convention with its seafood tower by going with a hot presentation.

In addition to a robust list of wines by the glass and bottle, Tutto Carne will offer a first-class cocktail program.

“What we’re really trying to focus on here is cocktails,” Ladner adds. “We want to have the steakhouse, but we also want to have this very high-end cocktail feel.”

Tutto Carne will be open for dinner Monday through Saturday.

Not only will Tutto Carne be the only steakhouse in Little Italy, it will be the only steakhouse between downtown and the eastern suburbs, the chef points out.

“This is a great neighborhood that has proximity to University Circle, which is my absolute favorite part of the entire Greater Cleveland area,” Ladner says. “And right at the top of the hill is Cleveland Heights, where I live.”

Crumb & Spigot to Open Second Location in Lakewood This Summer

It’s been about six months since Jamy Bolling purchased Crumb & Spigot (16783 Chillicothe Rd., 440-384-3035) from founders Karen Gorman and Ryan King. At the time Bolling, an industry veteran with decades of experience working for restaurant groups such as Bravo Brio, Piada and Chef Art Pour, already had his eye on expanding the nine-year-old brand. Today, he shared his plans for store number two.

Bolling has taken over the former Verizon space in Lakewood at 15322 Detroit Ave., which is located by Voodoo Tuna and Humble Wine Bar. At 2,800 square feet, the restaurant will be “a touch larger, not by much” than Bainbridge, says Bolling.

“It’s a shotgun space, so I think it will feel the same,” he adds. “Obviously, we’re keeping all of the same characteristics that we have in Bainbridge.”

Bolling describes the interior as “an updated Crumb and Spigot.” There will be a 20-seat bar, seating for another 30 in the dining room, and a few more on the front patio. Diners can look forward to the same menu of wood-burning pizzas and approachable tavern fare.

Bolling is shooting for a late- summer opening.

“I like the idea of being north, south, east and west – if we had that many restaurants,” Bolling says. “People in Lakewood like to eat out a lot — clearly there are a lot of restaurants — so I felt we’d be a nice niche in there and I think we’ll fit in nicely there.”

Verbena, A Non-Alcoholic Bar, to Open This Summer in Hingetown

Slated to open this summer in the former Cleveland Tea Revival space in Hingetown (1434 W. 29th St.), Verbena Shoppe, Cafe & Dry Bar aims to take advantage of the rising demand for non-alcoholic beverages.

“People are craving alternatives to alcohol, whether they want to drink less, less often, or not at all,” explains owner Molly Cheraso. “Verbena invites everyone to the celebration, creating an environment and menu that is just as thoughtfully constructed as any craft cocktail. We couldn’t be more thrilled to find our first permanent home and join this continued renaissance of the greater Ohio City neighborhood.”

What began as an itinerant popup offering non-alcoholic spirits, wine and beer will transition to a brick-and-mortar establishment in Ohio City. The 350-square-foot space is being described as “a shared workspace cafe meets neighborhood bar and bottle shop.” dtrattner@clevescene.com t@dougtrattner

Verbena will offer a selection of mocktails featuring popular brands like Prima Pave, Athletic Brewing Co., Ritual, Monday and Lyres, which stand in for beer, wine and traditional spirits like gin, rum and whiskey. Verbena will also offer a line of functional beverages that promise benefits such as relieving stress and boosting energy. Verbena will also offer an assortment of Cleveland Tea Revival’s house blends, organic herbs and direct source teas.

Many of Cleveland Tea Revival’s most popular menu items will remain. Dishes like soups, salads, pastries, rice bowls and avocado toast will be available during the day. In the evening, the menu will transition to cheese boards, tinned fish plates and desserts.

In terms of entertainment, Verbena plans to host events like tarot card and poetry readings, comedy shows, book nights and other gatherings.