Shutter Speed Carrick Camera Club
• Shutter Speed is one of the key ways in which we can control exposure. • It simply relates to the amount of time the shutter is open, and therefore how much light reaches the sensor or film.
Used creatively, Shutter Speed can be used to: 1) freeze movement, 2) to give a sense of movement by blurring the image, 3) or even to freeze some parts of the image but allow others to become blurred.
Shutter Priority There are four main modes on an SLR camera: • • • •
Manual Aperture Priority Shutter Priority Program If you wish to have ultimate control over your shutter speed then you should set your camera either to Manual mode or Shutter Priority. In Manual you choose both your shutter speed and your aperture.
In Shutter Priority you choose the shutter speed and your camera chooses the aperture for you. In all of the above modes you choose the ISO setting.
Camera Shake!
Camera Shake Shutter speed is of paramount importance in the battle against camera shake. To prevent Camera Shake, the old rule for 35mm SLR Photography was to use a shutter speed equal to or faster than 1/focal length of the lens used. 50mm 100mm 300mm
= = =
1/50 1/100 1/300
= = =
1/50th second 1/100th second 1/300th second
•
It is, however, the angle of view that is important in this equation rather than the actual focal length of the lens.
•
The majority of digital SLRs have an APS-C sensor which gives an equivalent angle of view between 1.5x and 1.6x longer than the focal length of the lens.
•
A 50mm lens therefore has the angle of view of between 75mm and 80mm. 100mm 300mm
•
= =
150mm – 160mm 450mm – 480mm
Consequently the shutter speed should be: 50mm lens 100mm 300mm
= = =
1/75th – 1/80th 1/150th – 1/160th 1/450th – 1/500th
There are, as ever, exceptions to the rule: 1) Some cameras and lenses now have image stabilisation which allows you to use a shutter speed 2 or 3 times slower. So it may be possible to handhold a shot with an image stabilised 300mm lens on an APS-C sensor DSLR at 1/125th second, or even 1/60th second. 2) Using a tripod, resting the camera on a bean bag or a fence, or even leaning against a wall will allow you to use a slower shutter speed. How slow depends upon the method used. 3) With a compact camera or a rangefinder camera, a picture can be taken a couple of stops slower because there is no mirror to cause vibration. So in theory you can take a picture at 1/15th at 50mm. 4) Some photographers are naturally more stable than others!
Handheld Vs. Tripod
Both of these pictures were taken using the same settings: 1/15th second, f16, ISO 400. 105mm lens on a digital SLR. The only difference is that the example on the left was taken hand held, whereas the picture on the right was taken using a tripod. (Without image stabilisation, this picture needed a shutter speed of 1/160th second).
Hand Held Vs Image Stabilisation
Once again, two pictures taken with identical settings: 1/25th second, f16, ISO 400. 105mm lens on digital SLR The picture on the left was taken hand held with the image stabilisation switched off, the second is hand held with the image stabilisation switched on. (Without image stabilisation, this picture needed a shutter speed of 1/160th second).
Picture Copyright David Barrie
Freezing Movement
Freezing Movement In order to freeze movement in a picture you need to use a shutter speed fast enough for your subject. Obviously, different subjects move at different speeds. You might need 1/60th second to freeze a pedestrian, 1/500th second to freeze a cyclist, or indeed it may take 1/4000th second to freeze a motorcycle.
1/1000th Second F5 ISO 100 Shutter Priority
As the motorcycle slows for the bend it is possible for you to freeze the action at 1/1000th second!
Subjects moving towards the camera, diagonally through the frame or straight across the frame effectively move at different speeds. For instance, a pedestrian walking towards might be frozen at 1/30th of a second, whereas if they are walking diagonally through the frame you might freeze them at 1/60th second, or if they are walking straight across the frame you may need 1/125th second.
To find the right shutter speed it is worth experimenting, but as a guide, or food for thought, here’s a few suggestions: Towards (slow)
Diagonally (medium)
Across (fast)
Pedestrian
1/30th
1/60th
1/125th
Jogger
1/60th
1/125th
1/250th
Cyclist
1/250th
1/500th
1/1000th
Car @ 30mph
1/250th
1/500th
1/1000th
Galloping Horse
1/500th
1/1000th
1/2000th
Car @ 100mph
1/1000th
1/2000th
1/4000th
This table is a guide and none of this is set in stone!
Taken using Shutter Priority to ensure that the action was frozen.
1/500th second F7.1 ISO 250
Points to remember: • Subjects that are further away will appear to move more slowly than subjects that are close - so you can use a slower shutter speed. This is especially pertinent to close up or macro photography. • The larger you blow up an image, the more obvious movement becomes. Something that looks sharp and frozen on a thumbnail may show plenty of movement when you blow it up to A4. • A pedestrian’s foot moves faster than their body and the spokes on a motorbike’s wheel move faster than the petrol tank.
A Sense of Movement
Creating a Sense of Movement There are times when you may wish to use blur to create a sense of movement. This is as true in Landscape photography as it is in Sports or Street photography.
1. Panning Panning essentially means following the subject with your camera. It is a technique used to keep the subject sharp and yet blur the background. It can be particularly useful if you have a distracting background that is taking attention away from the main subject. By following your subject as it moves, you are compensating for the subject’s movement, and so can use slower shutter speeds.
How to Pan 1)
Set a shutter speed that is between 2 and 4 stops slower than normal.
2)
Hold the camera with your elbows in and your feet apart.
3)
Swing from the waist, keeping your upper body rigid and your feet firmly rooted to the ground.
4)
Keep your movements as smooth as possible.
5)
Start panning before your final composition comes into view.
6)
Gently squeeze the shutter when the subject is in the desired position.
7)
Continue the panning movement after the shot has been taken.
Success comes with practice, patience and a little luck.
1/250th second, f9, ISO 100. Taken using Shutter Priority.
If you don’t succeed at first...
Shutter Priority 1/125th second F10 ISO 100
...try again!
Shutter Priority 1/200th second F9 ISO 100
2. Tripod As we’ve already seen, by using a tripod we can use a slower shutter speed than normal. The result is that anything solid, such as a rock or a wall will remain sharp, and anything moving will become blurred. Combine this with a small aperture and thus a large depth of field, and you can get some interesting results.
In this picture a tripod and a cable release were used to allow for a slow shutter speed. The result is that while the tree trunks remain sharp, the leaves are moving in the breeze. If you don’t have a cable release you can use the timer/delay function on your camera.
Genres of Photography Portraiture, Landscape , Wildlife, Nature, Sport, Street, Low Light , Fashion, Architecture, Performance, Still Life.... This isn’t meant to be a comprehensive list, however it is a reminder that with so many genres and subjects available to photographers, the opportunities for the creative use of shutter speed are seemingly endless!
Street Scenes A relatively slow shutter speed combined with panning has turned this cyclist into an impressionistic blur. In theory, 1/1000th second would have frozen the action.
1/50th second, f8, ISO 400. 50mm lens on DSLR. Taken while leaning against a wall for extra support.
Even at 1/50th second this pedestrian has become blurred. A shutter speed of 1/125th second should freeze a pedestrian. 1/30th second, f22, ISO 200. 66mm on DSLR.
Sport High shutter speeds have frozen the action, so provided your focus is spot on, pin sharp shots are possible.
Picture Copyright David Barrie
1/2000th second, F5.6, ISO 400. Aperture Priority, Lens at 250mm on a DSLR.
Picture Copyright David Barrie
1/1600th second, 5.6, ISO 400, Aperture Priority, Lens at 165mm on a DSLR.
A large aperture has been used, (in Aperture Priority), to ensure the camera chooses fast shutter speeds. It has the added advantage of blurring the background which makes the players stand out.
Wildlife By using a fast shutter speed and the motor drive you can take the action as it unfolds.
1/3200 second, F3.2, ISO 100 105mm lens on DSLR
Although a fast shutter speed was used in this shot of a gannet in flight, the picture was taken by following the bird with a panning action.
1/1600 second, F5.6, ISO 250 120mm lens on DSLR.
Panning allows you to frame the photograph more easily as it helps you to compose the image without having to snatch at shots. It also gives your camera’s autofocus a chance to lock on to your subject.
Travel This panning shot was taken from another boat travelling in the opposite direction.
1/160th second, f5.6, ISO 100. 95mm on DSLR.
Despite a relatively fast shutter speed, this vinyard worker’s hand has become blurred. 1/15th second, f14, ISO 100. 120mm on DSLR.
Landscape A long exposure has given the sea an ethereal, misty look in the picture on the left, and in the picture below the 1 second exposure has allowed the reflections to shine through as the ripples in the water have been smoothed out. Long exposure, small aperture, ISO 50. 24mm on Film SLR. Tripod and cable release.
A tripod was essential for both of these shots. A cable release allows you to fire the shutter without touching the camera, ensuring you don’t cause any camera shake. If you don’t have a cable release, the timer delay function on your camera is the next best thing.
1 second, f45, ISO 100. 280mm on DSLR. Tripod and cable release.
Gigs
Both photos: Manual Mode, 1/30th second, f1.4, ISO 1000. 50mm lens on DSLR.
The only difference between these two shots is that the subject is moving less in the second picture, hence the decrease in the amount of blur.
Waiting for a slower song or a slower part of a song will result in less blur, although with such a limited depth of field and with such low light levels, you need to decide carefully who or what you want to have in focus. These pictures were taken with a 50mm lens on a digital SLR so in theory a shutter speed of 1/75th second should have been used. However the resultant blur can add to the atmosphere. If the ISO had been pushed to 1600, then a shutter speed of 1/50th would have been possible. At ISO 3200, 1/100th second would have worked. 1/30th second, f1.8, ISO 1000. 50mm on DSLR .