The Shoals

Travel Experiences with Jeff Barganier The Shoals Music, History, Culture

Jeff at Frank Lloyd Wright Museum

Ancient Mound in Florence Helen Keller at Well Statue

Jeff at Muscle Shoals Sound Studio

“The Shoals” covers four Alabama towns: Florence, Tuscumbia, Sheffield and Muscle Shoals. The area’s stimulating venues range from ancient archeological artifacts—one of the largest ancient Indian mounds in the Tennessee Valley is located here—to modern, world-influencing history and people.

My first experience with Alabama’s northeast Shoals area was years back when I attended the W.C. Handy Music Festival honoring the “Father of the Blues.” The festival has been lauded by state and local government and selected as a Top Ten Event in Alabama. It’s held annually in the last full week of July on the scenic shores of the Tennessee River in McFarland Park. I will never forget the lively arrangements of the Dutch group Accoustrio singing Southern gospel and blues! My second connection was initiated by a phone call from Designer Kaitlin Wallace of Pillar & Peacock Interiors in Florence. Kaitlin called our Pike Road studio and ordered one of Cindy’s fabric designs. So, we drove up to meet the designers and enjoyed discovering one of Alabama’s most interesting and charming cities; and a sprawling Shoals region with amazing history and culinary delights.

The spectacular O’Neal Bridge spans the Tennessee River connecting these cities, and from its railings the Wilson Dam is visible upriver resembling a Roman aqueduct. One senses strength and courage in those structures not unlike that of Tuscumbia native Helen Keller, aka, “America’s First Lady of Courage.” At her childhood home, Ivy Green, we placed our hands on the very water pump where Miracle Worker Anne Sullivan achieved a communication breakthrough with blind-deaf little Helen, transforming her world from one of darkness to light. The “Miracle Worker” play is held on the grounds of Ivy Green weekends in June and July. This would make a great trip idea with the grands!

And for those interested in architecture, the Frank Lloyd Wright designed Rosenbaum House in Florence is Wright’s only Alabama structure. Super-interesting tours of the home last about 45 minutes and are led by experienced interpreters. Other creatives like world-renown textile designers Billy Reid and Natalie

Chanin have returned home to the Shoals and have made prominent contributions to the local economy. Chanin’s company, called Alabama Chanin, produces “thoughtfully made goods for the person and the home.” She uses 100% organic cotton sourced from seed to fabric along with repurposed and reclaimed materials to create exquisite apparel. Her designs are locally sewn—that means made in the USA—and sold internationally. The company offers tours and workshops, and there’s an excellent café on site, as well.

An excursion to the Shoals would be incomplete without a visit to two of Alabama’s most famous recording studios, FAME and Muscle Shoals Sound Studio. Aretha Franklin, Wilson Pickett, Duane Allman, Otis Redding, the Osmond’s, Paul Anka, The Rolling Stones, Rod Stewart, Paul Simon, Cher, Linda Ronstadt (my favorite) and many others passed through these doors. We attended the most fascinating presentations at these studios, giving us colorful insight into music history and, especially, the significant role this region of Alabama played. We also enjoyed visiting the Alabama Music Hall of Fame and the

W.C. Handy museum and homeplace. The beautiful Florence-Lauderdale Visitors’ Center is the perfect place to start your Shoals adventure. Grab an “Alabama dirt shirt” and a Visitors’ Guide before striking out. If you have more than a day to explore, I’d recommend staying at the Hampton Inn and Suites Downtown. It’s located off US 72 in the Shoals area of Florence only a short walk from shops, restaurants, and the Historic District. One may visit the Civil War Hospital at Pope’s Tavern Museum and the gorgeous University of North Alabama (est. 1830), both under a mile away. (UNA has two live lions on display!) The Hampton is less than 15 minutes from Helen Keller’s birth place and the Alabama Music Hall of Fame. For spicier accommodations, try one of Florence’s well-appointed boutique hotels like The GunRunner or The Stricklin. Enjoy a massage at The Gallaher Spa located at The GunRunner.

There are well over one hundred restaurants to choose from in the Shoals area. And Downtown Florence certainly has awesome dining possibilities. Big Bad Breakfast is a local favorite—Cindy and I flipped over their sensational biscuits! For lunch, we especially enjoyed Yumm Thai, Sushi & Beyond. And Jack’s Place has wonderful salads and sandwiches for lunch. Although we haven’t eaten dinner at Jack’s, (we had dinner at Odette), I’m betting Jack’s evening menu is amazing, too. 306 Barbeque is excellent—just a couple of doors down from Pillar & Peacock Interiors.

Florence is now one of my favorite Alabama cities. It’s an attractive, friendly and relaxing big-small-town for sightseeing, shopping or just plain strolling. And there’s no telling who may stroll by you. We passed a gentleman who looked to be in his early seventies—long hair, an earring, guitar strapped on his back—probably a former backup singer for Linda Ronstadt! When you visit Florence, be sure to stop by Alabama Outdoors at 119 North Court Street where I bought a beautiful shirt for 30% off. The manager’s name is Carla Mann. Tell her Jeff sent you.

Florence has also been named one of the best cities in Alabama in which to retire. According to the Internet, the cost of living in Florence is 9% below the national average and the median home price is only $100,000. Recreational activities enjoyed by retirees in this area include biking, boating, fishing and golfing. My local friend Coleman Brewster fishes in Pickwick Lake which runs 50 miles from Wilson Dam to Pickwick Dam in Tennessee. The Lake hosts a number of big-name fishing tournaments each year. The Shoals, indeed, has something for everyone.

Where To Stay: www.Hamptoninn3.hilton.com www.Gunrunnerhotel.com www.Thestrickland.com

Where To Eat: www.Yummthaisushiandbeyond.com www.Bigbadbreakfast.com www.Jacksplacebistro.com www.Odettealabama.com www.306bbq.com/florence

Where To Get A Massage: www.GunRunnerSpa.com

What To Visit and/or Tour: www.Muscleshoalssoundstudio.org www.fame2.com www.wchandymuseum.org www.Alamhof.org www.helenkellerbirthplace.org www.Alabamachanin.com/tours www.Wrightinalabama.com www.alabamamoundtrail.org/moundsite/florence/

Must Attend Annual Festivals: www.wchandymusicfestival.org www.helenkellerfestival.com

Where To Buy Cool Clothes: www.Alabamaoutdoors.com www.BillyReid.com

Jeff S. Barganier is a freelance writer and manages Cindy Barganier Interiors LLC in Pike Road, Alabama. (www.cindybarganier.com) He travels far and wide upon the slightest excuse for something interesting to write about. Contact him at Jeffbarganier@knology.net. Follow him on Instagram #jeffbarganier.