Climbing Laos by ryan skeers

Laos 1

Rock Climbing Vang Vieng Laos 2

General Information Rock climbing in Vang Vieng was first established through a group of German/American climbers in Februar 2002, with the help of Wildside Eco Group/ Green Discovery. The small tourist town of Vang Vieng is 170 km north of Vientiane, on the road 13 up to Luang Phrabang. Access and acommodation is easy and cheap. If you still have the information that a permit is required for climbing in Laos – things changed: After long discussions with the local Tousirst Authority Inty Deansavan, the Manager of Green Discovery, succeded just recently – climbing is allowed to everyone, the whole permit issue is dropped!!! (see also www.greendisscoverylaos.com). Nevertheless this is different if you plan in opening up a new cliff. Therefore a permission of the local authorities is necessary. Check with all questions with Green Discovery, they also have a new route book, climbing courses and equipment for rent. As most of the harder routes have not yet been repeated consider the ratings as a proposal. Volker Schöffl, 2009

For further information get the guide book through Green Discovery and visit their web page on the latest news : Or consult with Adam from Adams Rock Climbing, Vang Vieng (www.laos-climbing.com) 3

Credits Many thanks to the following companies for sponsoring bolts and climbing equipment: Krimmer Outdoor Systems, RocÂ´terra, Entre-Prises, E9, Flash Liquid Chalk, The North Face, Green Discovery Laos.

Tham Nam Them Access: Leave Vang Vieng north on the main road, after 6.5km turn left , just where a house with a blue roof is on the right hand side (on the left side of the road is a distance stone saying: Kasi 51 km). If you ae looking to the left side the ridge of the mountain range forms a v-shaped intercut, thats where the cave entrance is located. Follow the dirt road left up to itÂ´s end onto rice paddies, traverse these to the left where a small path leads to the river. After crossing follow the mostly dry small river bed for 10 min., just before itÂ´s end at a little cave follow the trail right to Tham Nam Them Cave. Go through the cave, the climbing area is just at ist opening on the other side. You can also walk on a small trail across the saddle to the other side instead of going through the cave. The routes outside the cave are seeping wet because of the monsum for about half of the year, thus they might be dirty again once you get there. Nevertheless the little effort of cleaning them is worth it, exspecially for the hard routes. All routes within the cave are allways clean, from 11 am to 3 pm the light inside the cave is perfect and the temperatures are nice and cool. If the temperature outside the cave is too hot, the routes within the cave might be wet. 5

Tham Nam Them

5 1

Small Topo 7

8 3

9b 10

Trail Inside the cave 19

18 17

14 15

Trail 2

Tham Nam Them 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19.

Prince of the Sky, 8a+ Barrel Roll, 8a Quicky, 6a Poppy Seed, 6a Lima Site, 7a+ AK-47, 7c Tuk Tuk Express, 7c+ Yellow Rain, 7a+ Missing Sweety, 6b+ 9.b Aaron, 6c+ Alternate, 6c Beer Lao 5c Remember Me, 6a Sabaydee, 6a The Critton, 7a+ February 5th. 8a/b Another Day in Paradise, 8a+ Project Volkers Eistraum 7b+ Eiszeit 7c/7c+

Volker Schöffl,, Christina Müller Feb.2002 Volker Schöffl, Sam Lightner Feb.2002 Gerd Schöffl Feb.2002 Radek Capek, Feb.2002 Gerd Schöffl Feb.2002 Carsten Seidel, Feb.2002 Radek Capek, Feb.2002 Sam Lightner, Carsten Seidel, Feb.2002 Sam Lightner, Feb.2002 King, Aey, Feb.2003 Sam Lightner, Feb.2002 Carsten Seidel, Feb.2002 Carsten Seidel, Feb.2002 Christina Mueller, Feb.2002 Sam Lightner, Volker Schöffl, Feb.2002 Volker Schöffl, March 2005 * Volker Schöffl, Christina Müller, Jan.2003 Volker Schöffl, Feb.2004 Volker Schöffl, Carsten Seidel, Feb.2004

* Dedicated to those who lost there lives in a stupid bandit ambush at Feb.5th 2003 just close to Tam Nam Them on the main road; the same day when I bolted the route.

Tham Nam Them 1.

Prince of the Sky, 8a+ 18m (Volker Schöffl,, Christina Müller Feb.2002, redpoint Volker Schöffl) Starts to the right when you get out of the cave, two bolts on a slab than continues up the arrete.

Barrel Roll, 8a 14m (Sam Lightner Feb.2002, redpoint Volker Schöffl) Starts on the right side within the cave before climbing up the ladder, continues up the steep face up to the belay right next to the big boulder

Quicky, 6a 5m (Gerd Schöffl Feb.2002) Underneath the big boulder, the short route on the left side

Poppy Seed, 6a 9m (Radek Capek, Feb.2002) To the rigth of route 3, for the start downclimb to a little block in the gulley

Lima Site, 7a+ 15m (Gerd Schöffl Feb.2002) On top of the boulder block, joins a start with route 6, than after the second bolt forks off to the left, continuing traversing and than straight up)

AK-47, 7c 30m (Carsten Seidel, Feb.2002) Takes the same start as route 5, continues slightly right and straight to a big flake with a long move into an undercling. From there through the stalagtites up to the anchors above the lip.

Tham Nam Them 7.

Tuk Tuk Express, 7c+ 35m (Radek Capek, Feb.2002) Joins a start with route 8, just left of a boulder block within the gulley, continues left underand sideclings and than straight, the anchors are right and above route 6´s.

Yellow Rain, 7a+ 15m (Sam Lightner Feb.2002) Same first bolt as route 7, than slightly right and a long reach up the stalagtite. Underclinging straight up to the shared anchors with route 9.

Missing Sweety, 6b+ 17m (Sam Lightner, Feb.2002, redpoint Christina Müller) Start 2m right to No.8, and than straight up. Or alternatively 9.b Aaron, 6c+ 13m (King, Aey, Feb.2003, redpoint Volker Schöffl) After the 3rd bolt of route 9 traverse right und loose flakes to the belay of No.10.

10.

Alternate, 6c 15m (Sam Lightner, Feb.2002) Starting at the right sided end of the canyon, traversing up and left)

11.

Beer Lao 5c 8m (Carsten Seidel, Feb.2002) The right route on the other boulder, just 25 m up from No.9

12.

Remember Me, 6a 10m (Carsten Seidel, Feb.2002) The left route at the boulder

Tham Nam Them 13.

Sabaydee, 6a 7m (Christina Müller, Feb.2002) On the other side of the boulder of routes 11 and 12.

14.

The Critton, 7a+ 15m (Volker Schöffl, Feb.2002, redpoint Sam Lightner) The classic route within the cave, which has best light between 12 and 3 pm. Down into the cave and downclimbing little boulder blocks to the obvious start with a little defile and than laybacks.

15.

February 5th 8a/b (Volker Schöffl, March 2005) To the right side of the critton. Dedicated to those who lost there lives in a stupid bandit ambush at Feb.5th 2003 just close to Tam Nam Them on the main road; the same day when I bolted the route.

13.

Another Day in Paradise, 8a+ 15m (Volker Schöffl, Christina Mueller, Jan.2003, redpoint Volker Schöffl) 30 m to the right of No.15, a almost 10m long roof which points downward at the end, anchors on a single bolt in the slab, which can be unclipped directly from a boulder block

14.

Project Little 2 bolts boulder, not finished

15.

Volkers Eistraum 7b+ 12m (Volker Schöffl, Feb.2004) To the left of „The Critton“, the holds are worse and more slopy as they look like

16.

Eiszeit 7c/7c+ 10m (Volker Schöffl, Carsten Seidel, Feb.2004) Short but pretty bouldery route left of No.18.

Volker Schöffl in „Feb.5th“ Feb.5th“

Gerd Schöffl in „Lima Site“ Site“

Tham Nam Them

11 Volker Schöffl in „Another Day in Paradise“ Paradise“

Sleeping Wall Access: Take the road north of VangV ieng, after 2km leave it to the left, following the sign to Tham None Cave (Sleeping Cave). As you get to the river (Nam Song) yell for the boatmen on the other side to take you across. The wall is just behind the visible shit wall next to the river.

Sleeping Wall 1 2

20 22 23

10 11

15 16

13 14

R I V E R

Trail

Sleeping Wall 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23.

Oscar, 7b+ Volker Schöffl and Christina Müller Dec.2002 Tina, 7b Volker Schöffl and Christina Müller Dec.2002 Spider, 7b Volker Schöffl and Christina Müller Dec.2002 Snake Skin, 7a Volker Schöffl and Christina Müller Dec.2002 Lonely Cowboy 6b Volker Schöffl Oct. 2003 Hate 6b Volker Schöffl Oct. 2003 White Jungle 6b+ Enrico Ramoth, Gerd & Volker Schoöfl, Feb.2004 Happy 6a Sek and Volker Schöffl Feb 2004 Sek Billion 5b Sek Feb 2004 Sam‘s Dream, 5 Volker Schöffl and Christina Müller Dec.2002 Wildside, 6b Volker Schöffl and Christina Müller Dec.2002 Kouky, 6c+ Volker Schöffl and Christina Müller Dec.2002 Si Pou, 7b+ Volker Schöffl and Christina Müller Dec.2002 La, 6c Volker Schöffl and Christina Müller Dec.2002 Happy TuTu, 6c Christina Müller, Volker Schöffl Dec.2002 Give Pizza a Chance, 6c+ Volker Schöffl and Christina Müller Dec.2002 Gerton Jonny Watson, 4 Volker Schöffl and Christina Müller Dec.2002 Rcap 512, 5a Volker Schöffl and Christina Müller Dec.2002 Bierseidel, 5b Volker Schöffl and Christina Müller Dec.2002 American anti force 6a+ Oetztuerck, Dec. 2006 Freak Show, 6a+ Thomas Wenk, Mylene D., Feb. 2008 Monkey World 6b+ Thomas Wenk, March 08 Don´t worry be happy 6b Thomas Wenk, March 08 14 © Volker Schoeffl

Sleeping Wall 1.

Oscar, 7b+ 18m (Volker Schöffl, Christina Müller Dec.2002, redpoint Volker Schöffl) The left route on the overhanging face, bouldery crux at the 4th bolt

Tina, 7b 20m (Volker Schöffl, Christina Müller Dec.2002, redpoint Volker Schöffl) 5m right to No.1, boulder crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, than endurance up straight and left

Spider, 7b 14m (Volker Schöffl, Christina Müller Dec.2002, redpoint Volker Schöffl) The next route to the right, straight through the roof, the crux is right before the lip of the roof

Snake Skin, 7a 13m (Volker Schöffl, Christina Müller Dec.2002, redpoint Volker Schöffl) Same start as No.3, than goes right and through the roof, after the lip traverse left to the same anchor as No.3

Lonely Cowboy 6b 8m (Volker Schöffl Oct. 2003) Up on the stalagtites and slightly right on top, same anchors as No.6

Hate 6b 8m (Volker Schöffl Oct. 2003) Sharp handholds, joins anchors with No.5 © Volker Schöffl 15

Sleeping Wall 14.

La, 6c 20m (Volker Schöffl , Christina Müller Dec.2002) Just left side where the canyon gets smaller, goes up the arrate and then left to the anchors of No.13.

15.

Happy TuTu, 6c 12m (Volker Schöffl , Christina Müller Dec.2002, redpoint Christina Müller) The best of the 6c´s, lots of small stalagtites.

16.

Give Pizza a Chance, 6c+ 12m (Volker Schöffl , Christina Müller Dec.2002) The last route in the canyon, don´t fall cliping the 4th bolt, as the backwall is close to you.

17.

Gerton Jonny Watson, 4 10m (Volker Schöffl , Christina Müller Dec.2002) The left route on the right hand side of the canyon.

18.

Rcap 512, 5a 12m (Volker Schöffl , Christina Müller Dec.2002) Straight up through the middle of the wall, mostly used for climbing classes.

19.

Bierseidel, 5b 11m (Volker Schöffl , Christina Müller Dec.2002) To the right of No.18, crux right on top. © Volker Schöffl 16

Sleeping Wall - Secret Canyon Access: Take the road north of VangV ieng, after 2km leave it to the left, following the sign to Tham None Cave (Sleeping Cave). As you get to the river (Nam Song) yell for the boatmen on the other side to take you across. The first cliff which you are getting to is Sleeping Wall, continue to itÂ´s left and follow a samll trail which than leads into the Secret Canyon.

Tubers Paradise Wall

Secret Canyon

Irrigation Channel Tham None Sleeping Wall

Nam Song

18 © Volker Schöffl

Sleeping Wall - Secret Canyon I

1 2 3

Chimney gym

Sleeping Wall - Secret Canyon I 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Living on the edge, 6a, 18m Thomas Wenk, Jan.08 Oh la la, 6b, 18m Thomas Wenk, Jan.08 Bee nest 5c/6a, 18m Thomas Wenk, Jan.08 Snoopy, 5b, 10m Thomas Wenk, Jan.08 Mein Schatz mit Locken, 5c, 12m Thomas Wenk, Jan.08 5.1. Chimney gym, 5b, 12m Thomas Wenk, Jan.08 5.2. I like it tight, 5b, 12m Thomas Wenk, Jan.08 5.3. The light at the end of the tunnel, 4, 12m Thomas Wenk, Jan.08

Sleeping Wall - Secret Canyon II

Sleeping Wall - Secret Canyon II 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

Camp 4.20, 6a, 16m Arne the Viking, 6a, 16m Hey Joe, 6b, 15m France Connection, 6c+, 15m No wonder, 6b+, 15m Hope is born, 6b+, 15m LetÂ´s rock, 6b+, 12m Wishful thinking, 6b+, 10m Up to date, 7a, 11m

Thomas Wenk, Dec.2007 Thomas Wenk, Dec.2007 Thomas Wenk, Dec.2007 Thomas Wenk, Dec.2007 Thomas Wenk, Dec.2007 Thomas Wenk, Dec.2007 Thomas Wenk, Dec.2007 Thomas Wenk, Dec.2007 Thomas Wenk, March 2008

Sleeping Cave Access: Take the road north of VangVieng, after 2km leave it to the left, following the sign to Tham Non Cave (Sleeping Cave). As you get to the river (Nam Song) yell for the boatmen on the other side to take you across. Up to here it is the same approach as to the Sleeping Wall. After crossing the Nam Song river turn right, to the Tam Non Cave.

Sleeping Cave

8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

3 1

5 6

10 11 12 13 14

Left side

11 12 13 14

Right side © Volker Schöffl

Sleeping Cave 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13.

Xayhoo 7b+ Sok di be mai, 8a Butterfly, 8a Tag am Meer 7c+/8a Just horrified 7a Karaokee, 7b Flash Keks, 6b Pin Pah Noi Ngun, 5c Chicken Schnitzel, 7b+ Cornflake, 6c Ostkamin, 6a+ Puzzle, 6c+ Hamilton Powerarm meets Tyrone Shoelace 6b 14. Scary Tuna, 5b

Volker Schöffl, Carsten Seidel, Gerd Schöffl, Enrico Ramoth Feb. 2004

Volker Schöffl, April 2003 Volker Schöffl, Feb.2004 Volker Schöffl, Feb.2004 Volker Schöffl March 2004 Volker Schöffl, March 2003 Volker Schöffl, March 2003 Volker Schöffl Stefan Zenker , March 2003 Volker Schöffl, March 2003 Volker Schöffl Max Felle,, Alex Hislop, Oscar Willemsen, March 2003 Volker Schöffl Max Felle,, Alex Hislop, Oscar Willemsen, March 2003 Volker Schöffl Max Felle,, Alex Hislop, Oscar Willemsen, March 2003

Mark Ryan,, Volker Schöffl Feb. 2004 Stefan Zenker, Volker Schöffl, March 2003 © Volker Schöffl

Sleeping Cave 1.

Xayhoo 7b+ 10m (Volker Schöffl, Carsten Seidel, Gerd Schöffl, Enrico Ramoth Feb. 2004, repoint Volker Schöffl) The route on the very left hand side, nice upperarm moves through the roof, crux on the lip.

Sok di Phi Mai, 8a 12m (Volker Schöffl, April 2003) Trickey moves through the center of the roof.

Butterfly, 8a 17m (Volker Schöffl, Feb.2004) Starts together with No.4, than goes left after the 6th bolt and the first crux, continues through the roof to a double kneebar no-hand rest and one more hard move afterwards.

Tag am Meer 7c+/8a 19m (Volker Schöffl, Feb.2004) As above and after the 6th bolt to the right, endurance climbing on good holds to the anchor.

Just horified 7a 15m (Volker Schöffl March 2004) Starting from a little ledge, continues steep straight uo and left.

Karaokee, 7b 17m (Volker Schöffl, March 2003) Starting 2m right of No.5 from the ledge, straight and the left through the whole roof and down to the joined anchors with No.14. 26 © Volker Schöffl

Sleeping Cave 12. Puzzle, 6c+ 15m (Volker Schöffl Max Felle,, Alex Hislop, Oscar Willemsen, March 2003, redpoint Max Felle)

A trickey slab to start with and than up a double line of small pinches. 13. Hamilton Powerarm meets Tyrone Shoelace 6b 18m (Mark Ryan, Volker Schöffl Feb. 2004, redpoint Mark Ryan) 3m left of No.12, a large chimney leads to a small overhang, past that and through the roof to the same anchor as route 7, coming up from the other side of the cave. 14. Scary Tuna, 5b 12m (Stefan Zenker, Volker Schöffl, March 2003) The big stalagtite. Starting 5m right of No.13, up to the ledge and than onto the stalagtite. Notice ist swing!

Volker Schöffl in „Butterfly“ Butterfly“

Sleeping Wall and Cave Enrico Haase in „Snake skin“ skin“

Isabelle Schöffl in „Si Pou“ Pou“

28 Sek bolting

Enrico Ramoth in „Chicken Schnitzel“ Schnitzel“

Sleeping Cave Upper Wall

There is another wall next to Sleeping Cave, with potential for future developement (5 to 6c). Just fork of to the right side before entering the cave. Continue the trail up to the wall and to it`s right end. There is a bolted via ferrata with a fixed rope (Carsten Seidel, Volker Schoeffl, Feb.2004) to a big ledge. If the rope is gone you can follow the bolts, something like a 4 or 5. Thomas Wenk started bolting new routes there in 2007, but due to permit issues itÂ´s presently not possible to bolt there.

Pha Daeng Mountain Access: In Vang Vieng cross the Nam Song River and hike in the direction to Pha Daeng Mountain or Lusy Cave . At the base of the mountain turn left and continue the trail until you get to a small cave. Keep left until a trail leads up to the cliff. If you can´t find the trail ask the guide at the little cave, he can show you.

Pha Daeng Mountain

2b 1

2 3

8 9

Trail © Volker Schöffl

Pha Daeng Mountain 1.

King Cobra, 6a+

Pit Viper, 6c+ 2b Pit Viper direct 7a

Thomas Wenk, February 2008

Thanks Josh, 6b

Thomas Wenk, February 2007

Egg Power 7a

Alex Morcom, Adrian Nicholas, February 2007

Pea My, 6b+

Ngu Pit 6a+

Meng Mum, 6a+

Highland Games, 6b

Thomas Wenk, April 2007

Battery mot loe 7a

Thomas Wenk, April 2007

10. Please don´t rush 7a+

Thomas Wenk, Mylene Desgroseilliers, February 2008 © Volker Schöffl

Tuber´s Paradise Wall Wall

Irrigation Channel Tham None

Trail Nam Song

Sleeping Wall

This is the big face, further down the valley inbetween the Sleeping Cave and Sleeping Wall.. For the access go to the other side of the river, as in Sleeping Cave. Follow the small trail into the jungle, continuing left at the irrigation channel.. Traverse is at the spot where we built a little bridge (2 tree logs). Continue first left than straight to the end of the secondary jungle. From there follow the jungle trail, which is market with orange trail marks. Take care on the trail, a33lot of the rocks áre very sharp and loose.

Khoi hak chao – Tuber´s Paradise Wall To be continued

6b+

Khoi Hak Chao: 6c+ Isabelle and Volker Schöffl Oktober 2004

6c+

6b 6a 6a

Equipment: 50 m ropes, 12 Quickdraws, all bolted. Rappels: The rappels are down the route, with backclipping at the 3rd and 4th pitch (tricky !). We will continue it higher up the next time. © Volker Schöffl

No fear my Dear– Tuber´s Paradise Wall

No fear my Dear 6c+

6c 6c+

Thomas Wenk, Sai, Pern 2007, 2008 (4 pitches) 5th pith: Diego Zanesco and Michi Andres 10/2008 Equipment: 50 m ropes, 12 Quickdraws, all bolted.

6a+

6a Khoi hak chao

No fear my Dear 35

Khoi hak chao

36 Isabelle Schöffl in „Khoi hak chao“ chao“

Pha Tang – Na Pha Daeng Access: Leave Vang Vieng north on the main road (Rt13), after 20 km you will get to the Pha tang village. Continue 2km north until you see the big white and red wall (Pha Daeng means red wall) on the left side. Take a small trail of the road to the left end of the main wall. After crossing the rice paddies stay a little left until you get to a jungle trail which goes along the wall. Be careful not to step onto the traps, set up by the locals to catch small mammals. There is also another trail on the right side. The climbing area is at a white „amphitheatre“ , which is obviously visible (Sector Calcaneus) and fruther to the right. The rock is clean and also dry in rainy days. Most of the route names are written onto the wall. This is the best place we have in Vang Vieng and more routes are to come. Please respect the projects. March 2009

Isabelle Schöffl in „Calcaneus“ Calcaneus“

Karin Anders in „Frauenbewegung“ Frauenbewegung“

V. Schöffl in „Le charme... charme...““

Volker Schöffl in „Bullet hole

Pha Daeng 2008

Isabelle Schöffl in „Calcaneus“ Calcaneus“ Isabelle Schöffl in „Calcaneus“ Calcaneus“

Anja Carion in Stem for ...“ ...“ Volker Schöffl in „Palasa Ling“ Ling“

Pha Tang â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Na Pha Daeng The Sectors 1

Rock face 2

6 4

1 Deeper than the day 2. Papillon

Trail

Trail River Road

3. Calcaneus 4. Millipede 5. Papaya Tree 6. Rocterra

Na Pha Daeng – Sector „Deeper than the day“ Hanging belay

8b, 25m Hanging belay

Deeper than the day

7c, 20m Hanging belay

6c+, 20m

Belay in big cave

6c, 30m

6b+,30m Climb through cave

8 pitches, 210m, 8b Jens Richter, Philip Flaemig 01/2008 Some bolts ( ), fixed slings, all belays (slings, some bolts) are in place, rappel downs the route.

Belay in little cave

6b, 25m Belay in little cave

6a+, 30m Belay in little cave

6b, 30m

Equipment: 60m, better 70m rope 1 set of nuts, Friends 0.5-2.5, slings 40

Na Pha Daeng – Sector Papillon

5 6

Sector Calcaneus

Na Pha Daeng – Sector Papillon 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Project Inty 7a Champa Nakon 7c+/8a Papillon 6c Stem for treasure 5c

Wangoet Wong 5c

Isabelle Schöffl, 2009 Hoi,Isabelle Schöffl, Kelly Carbon, March 2008 Isabelle and Volker Schöffl, January 2009 Hoi and Thomas Wenk, March 2008 Isabelle Schöffl, Hoi, Montserrat & Anja Carion, Februar 2008 Hoi,, April 2006 (Sector Calcaneus)

Na Pha Daeng – Sector Papillon 1.

Project (Isabelle Schöffl 2009)

Inty 7a, 20 m, (Hoi,Isabelle Schöffl, Kelly Carbon, March 2008, redpoint Hoi) The route continues up along the obvious left of the two cracks

Champa Nakon 7c+/8a (Isabelle and Volker Schöffl March 2008, redpoint Isabelle Schöffl January 2009) Crimpy, crimpy, crimpy..

Papillon 6c (Hoi and Thomas Weck, March 2008, redpoint Hoi) The right long crack

Stem for treasure,5c (Isabelle Schöffl, Hoi, Montserrat & Anja Carion , Februar 2008) Nice climb up the defile

Wangoet Wong 5c, Hoi,, April 2006 (Sector Calcaneus) This is the first route of the topo Sector Calcaneus, which continues further to the right.

Na Pha Daeng – Sector Calcaneus 4c 6 7 4b 4c

12 6 7 1

2 3 4c 4a

16 17 11 18

44 © Volker Schöffl

Na Pha Daeng – Sector Calcaneus 1. 2. 3. 4.

7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12.

Wangoet Wong 5c Cand.med. 5b Ankiakigokja 6a 4a. Angels and Daemons 6c 4b. Aldokora 7a (4a,b) 4c. Jungle Inside (multipitch, 7a+) Proper training is essential before use 6c+ (4a+5) A Million Elephants and a white Parasol 7b Calcaneus 7c+ Palasa Ling 7c Happy end 8a Les Charmes du Laos 7c Chao Ling chep lai lai 6a Les Larmes du Chaos 7b

13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18.

Hois girl 7b+ Two had to leave the party 7a Money can´t buy me love 6b+ Frauenbewegung 7a+ Be Mai Ni 6c Spuzl 8a+

5. 6.

Hoi,, April 2006 Isabelle Schöffl, April 2006 Konrad Oppelt, Alexander Neuhof , March 2008 Thorsten Bauer, Isabelle Schöffl, April 2006 Isabelle Schöffl, Volker Schöffl, April 2006 Diego Zanesco, Michi Andres Oktober 2008 Isabelle Schöffl, April 2006 Isabelle and Volker Schöffl, March 2007 Isabelle and Volker Schöffl, February 2008 Volker Schöffl February 2008 Volker Schöffl, February 2009 Volker Schöffl, April 2006 Volker Schöffl, April 2006 Thorsten Bauer, Frank Einwag, Volker Schöffl, April 2006 Thorsten Bauer, Hoi,, Volker Schöffl, April 2006 Thorsten Bauer, April 2006 Thorsten Bauer, April 2006 Karin Anders, April 2006 Frank Einwag, April 2006 Volker Schöffl, March 2007

Na Pha Daeng – Sector Calcaneus 1.

Wangoet Wong 5c 10m (Hoi , April 2006) Nice little easy climb with one hard move.

Cand.med. 5b 10m (Isabelle Schöffl, April 2006) Starting together with No.1 and goes up and right, to the anchors of No.3.

Ankiakigokja (Konrad Oppelt, Alexander Neuhof March 2008, redpont Konrad Oppelt) 6a, 10m straight up to the anchors

4a. Angels and Daemons 6c 12m (Thorsten Bauer, Isabelle Schöffl, April 2006, redpoint Thorsten Bauer) Big holds and a little pumpy. 4b. Aldokora 7a (4a+b) 28m (Isabelle Schöffl, Volker Schöffl, April 2006, redpoint Isabelle Schöffl) Continues route 3 all the way up, nice endurance climb. Be sure your rope is long enough!

Proper training is essential before use 6c+ (3+5) 22 m (Isabelle Schöffl, April 2006) Start with route No.3 and than continue to the right. The crux is at the end of the big flake, technical moves.

A Million Elephants and a white Parasol 7b, 30m (Isabelle and Volker Schöffl, March 2007, redpoint Isabelle Schöffl) The best route in the sector!, long and endurance with one harder move. Starts with 46 No.4a and after the 5th bolt goes right, joins No.5 with the crux and continues straight up – a must!

Na Pha Daeng – Sector Calcaneus 7.

Calcaneus 7c+, 30m (Isabelle and Volker Schöffl 2006 and 2008, redpoint Isabelle Schöffl) When a hold came off i had a groundfall and shattered my calcaneus. So the surgeons needed to fix me and Isa completed the route 2 years later higher up and redpointed it.

Palasa Ling 7c, 18m (Volker Schöffl 2008) Whatch the blocks at the start, which are a bit loose.

Happy End 8a, 18m (Volker Schöffl 2009) Long moves on good holds, atheltic, with the second crux right at the end.

Les Charmes du Laos 7c 20m (Volker Schöffl, April 2006) The crux is the last move with two 2-finger pockets.

Chao Ling chep lai lai 6a 10m (Volker Schöffl, April 2006) Nice warm up with a bit of loose rock at the start.

10.

Les Larmes du Chaos 7b 20m, (Thorsten Bauer, Frank Einwag, Volker Schöffl, April 2006, redpoint Thorsten Bauer) Starts with route No.8 and continues straight up to a joined anchor with route No.7.

11.

Hois girl 7b+ 27m (Thorsten Bauer, Hoi, Volker Schöffl, April 2006, redpoint Thorsten Bauer) Starts with route No.8 and traverses right and than up.

Na Pha Daeng – Sector Calcaneus 14.

Two had to leave the party 7a, 22m (Thorsten Bauer, April 2006) Two long reaches after the traverse to the left. Starts together with route 12.

15.

Money can´t buy me love 6b+, 20m (Thorsten Bauer, April 2006) Big holds and a not too easy start for the grade.

16.

Frauenbewegung 7a+ 27m (Karin Anders, April 2006) The finish is the crux! Joined start with No.12.

17.

Be Mai Ni 6c 25m (Frank Einwag, April 2006) Long and beatiful, joined start with No.12.

18.

Spuzl 8a+, 15m (Volker Schöffl, March 2007) Long reach and bouldery, the crux is higher up as you would expect.

Na Pha Daeng â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Sector Calcaneus 4c: Jungle Inside, 6 pitches, Diego Zanesco and Michi Anders Oktober 2008 1. pitch: starts left of Aldokora and joins the anchors with Aldokora, 32m, 14 bolts 2. pitch: 25 m, 6b+, 3 bolts ! and a few little slings. 3. pitch: up the overhanging defile, 25m, 6c+, 12 bolts, 2 pietons 4. pitch: 25m, 14 bolts, 7a+, overhanging fist and finger crack 5. pitch: 25 m, 6b+, no bolts! , 2 fixed slings, more possible All belay points are equipped for rappels, brings some slings and may be friends, reclip at the 3rd and 4th pitch for rappel to stay at the wall.

Karin Anders in „Frauenbewegung“ Frauenbewegung“

V. Schöffl in „Le charme... charme...““

T.Bauer in „Money...“ Money...“

F.Einwag in „Be Mai Ni“ Ni“

Pha Daeng Sector Calcaneus

50 Isabelle Schöffl in „Proper training... training...““

Karin Anders in „Aldokora. Aldokora.“

Isabelle Schöffl in „Proper training... training...““

Na Pha Daeng - Sector Millipede 2

Na Pha Daeng - Sector Millipede 1.

Dream Catcher 7c

2. 3. 4.

Sweet Dreams 7c+ Wellcome to the Jungle 6c+ Bullet hole 7c+

Isabelle und Volker Schöffl, redpoint Isabelle Schöffl March 2007 Jens Richter 2008 Matthias Stöcker, March 2007 Matthias Stöcker, Volker Schöffl, redpoint Volker Schöffl 2007/2008 © Volker Schöffl

Na Pha Daeng - Sector Millipede 1.

Dream Catcher 7c 30m (Isabelle und Volker Schöffl, redpoint Isabelle Schöffl, March 2007) The best route on Na Pha Deng! Quite powerful start and than endurance climbing on pockets.

Sweet Dreams 7c+ (Jens Richter 2008) Continues Dream Catcher higher up.

Wellcome to the Jungle 6c+ 17m (Matthias Stöcker, March 2007) Starts together with No.3 and continues up left, along the stalagtite and than into the face.

Isabelle Schöffl in „Champa Nakon“ Nakon“

Volker Schöffl in „Happy End“ End“

Pha Daeng 2009

Megan Smith in „Struggling for identity “

Isabelle Schöffl in „Champa Nakon“ Nakon“ Isabelle Schöffl in „Champa Nangkon“ Nangkon“

Na Pha Daeng - Sector Papaya Tree

Na Pha Daeng - Sector Papaya Tree 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

Project Bees drive me crazy 6c Schmeckt much better Brause 6b Papaya Tree 7b+ Bamberg meets Freiburg 7a+ Scotty and the happy holiday climbers 7a Air Con 7b+

Hoi March 2007 Thomas Wenk, Matthias Stöcker, March 2007 Matthias Stöcker, Thomas Wenk, March 2007 Matthias Stöcker March 2007 Matthias Stöcker, Thomas Wenk, March 2007 Thomas Wenk, Matthias Stöcker, March 2007 Matthias Stöcker, March 2007

Na Pha Daeng - Sector Papaya Tree 1.

Project (Hoi March 2007) 17m Hois project for a new grade...

Bees drive me crazy 6c 15m (Thomas Weck, Matthias Stöcker, March 2007, redpoint Thomas Wenk) On the left side of the big obvious huge flake.

Schmeckt much better Brause 6b 15m (Matthias Stöcker, Thomas Wenk, March 2007, redpoint Matthias Stöcker) On the right side of the big obvious flake. On the upper part go slightly right.

Papaya Tree 7b+ 17m (Matthias Stöcker March 2007) Looks like 8a..., Bouldery and crimpy start to a traverse to the left and a mantle. Fontainebleu in Laos.

Bamberg meets Freiburg 7a+ 18m (Matthias Stöcker, Thomas Wenk, March 2007, redpoint Matthias Stöcker) Joined start with No.6 and a long reach to traverse left.

Scotty and the happy holiday climbers 7a 18m (Thomas Wenk, Matthias Stöcker, March 2007, redpoint Matthias Stöcker) Hard at the start and than big holds all the way to the top.

Air Con 7b+ , 22m (Matthias Stöcker, March 2007) Hard crack at the beginning and a tricky crux on the top...

Na Pha Daeng - Rocterra

3 4

Na Pha Daeng - Rocterra 1.

Struggling for identity 5c

Isabelle & Volker Schöffl, Megan Smith, Rosie Fisher, January 2009

Spiderwebs for Izzi 5c

Isabelle & Volker Schöffl , January 2009

3 on a bike 5c

E nove 6b+

Isabelle & Volker Schöffl, Megan Smith, Rosie Fisher, January 2009 Volker & Isabelle Schöffl, January 2009 © Volker Schöffl

Na Pha Daeng - Rocterra 1.

Struggling for identity 5c, 15m (Isabelle & Volker Schöffl, Megan Smith, Rosie Fisher, January 2009, redpoint Megan Smith) All routes 1-4 almost start together, go left over the little overhang and up along the stalagtites.

Spiderwebs for Izzi 5c, 15m (Isabelle & Volker Schöffl , January 2009, redpoint Volker) straigth up from the start, joines the anchors with Struggling for identity

3 on a bike 5c, 15m (Isabelle & Volker Schöffl, Megan Smith, Rosie Fisher, January 2009, redpoint Rosie Fisher)

E nove 6b+, 25m (Volker & Isabelle Schöffl, January 2009, redpoint Volker Schöffl) The classical jungle line, traverse behind the tree without using the tree as a no hand rest!Between the second and the third bolt stay either a litlle left or a little right. © Volker Schöffl

Isabelle Schöffl in „A Million Elephants... Elephants...““ Hoi in „Scotty and the…“ the…“

Pha Daeng

Isabelle Schöffl in „Dream Catcher“ Catcher“

61 Isabelle IsabelleSchöffl Schöfflin in„„Dream A Million Catcher“ Elephants... Elephants...““

Volker Schöffl in „Papaya Tree“ Tree“

Volker Schöffl in „Spuzl“ Spuzl“

Rock Climbing Xaysomboune Laos 62

General Information Xaysomboune Special Zone is not yet a province, but still halfway a military area. As this area used to be the main stronghold of the US troups in the Vietnam War and later on of the remaining Hmong resistance it is still occasionally a troublesome area. Therefore it remains in the official status of a special zone, nevertheless it will probabely become a real province in one or two years. For „Farang“ – tourists to go there a special permit is mandatory, currently Wildside-Green Discovery Laos is the only travel company which can get you the permit and also get you there. After a very very long time we where the first tourists who ever stayed in the center town of the special zone, Xaysomboune. The road to get there leaves from the main road up north to Luang Phrabang (Rd-13) right after the Nam Num lake in the small town Tha Heua, some 20 km bevore you get to Vang Vieng. It is another 100 km on a bumby dirt road, which takes about 2 hours on a offroad bike, 2-3 on a jeep or car and maybe 6 hours on the local bus. The road passes along some smaller villages, there is enough supply for food and gas. Xaysomboun town has 2 little guesthouses and also homestays availiable. Currently you still need to register with the local tourism authority, a very nice woman, fluent in French and English and the local police. They provided us with 2 (armed) police guys for our protection, free of charge. Nevertheless even if this might all seems to be a bit off a hassle it is definately worth it. The rock there is absolutely brilliant, totally clean and of the same quality as the best places in Phra Nang and Railey! Temperatures are quite low and climbing in the sun is no problem. The varity of food is basic lao, there are few reaturants, nevertheless none with an english menu. But beeing away from the beaten tourist trails, discovering the real Laos and having a first rate climbing area will keep you happy all times. The climbing area, with much more potential for the future, is on Houa Xang (Elephant head mountain) just north of town. The local tourist authorities will show you the trail, ist about 20 min uphill walking. Volker Schöffl, 63 March 2005

Pha Houa Xang 7

Trail

50m

ÂŠ Volker Schoeffl 64

Pha Houa Xang 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Vertigo 7a Dr. Mathilda 7b Xaysomboune 8a Hoi Trail 6b+ Sinthese 6c+ Isa 7c+

7. Project 8. Âme soeur, 7b+

Julian Körner, Februar 2005 Frank Einwag. Februar 2005 Volker Schoeffl, Februar 2005 Hoi, Volker Schoeffl, Februar 2005 Julian Körner, Ferbruar 2005 Volker Schoeffl, Februar 2005 (as a big flake broke off, Ao to the 3rd bolt) sequel to Isa Isabelle Schöffl, Februar 2005

Pha Houa Xang 1.

Vertigo 7a 15m, (Julian Körner, Februar 2005) Big holds and steep, good warm up.

Dr. Mathilda 7b 25m (Frank Einwag. Februar 2005) The line in Xaysomboune, all good holds and brilliant climbing. Watch for the big bird which settled in the big hole.

Xaysomboune 8a 18m (Volker Schöffl, Februar 2005) Two hard moves after the traverse, long reach to a two finger pocket.

Hoi Trail 6b+ 20m (Hoi, Volker Schöffl, Februar 2005, redpoint Hoi) All the way up on the left side of the stalagtite.

Sinthese 6c+ 21m (Julian Körner, Volker Schöffl, Ferbruar 2005, redpoint Julian Körner) On the right side of the stalagtite line, with a little overhanging section.

Isa 7c+ 25m (Volker Schöffl, Februar 2005) (as a big flake broke off, Ao to the 3rd bolt, after that brilliant endurance climb)

Project (Volker Schöffl) Sequel to Isa

Âme soeur, 7b+ 17m (Isabelle Schöffl, Februar 2005) 50 m to the right of No.7. Hard bouldery crux.

Julian Körner in „Vertigo“ Vertigo“

Frank Einwag in „Dr. Mathilda“ Mathilda“

Pha Houa Xang

Isabelle Schöffl in „Dr. Mathilda“ Mathilda“

67 Volker Schöffl in „Xaysomboune“ Xaysomboune“

F. Einwag in „Dr. Mathilda“ Mathilda“

Hoi in „hoi Trail“ Trail“

Luang Phra Bang Pak Ou Eagle Wall 68

Luang Phra Bang In 1996, just after Laos opened ist`s borders slowly for tourism, we went to Luang Phra Bang to start rock climbing at Pak Ou. Nevertheless it was still a difficult time for the country, we found a human skelleton underneath the wall and terrorist gangs were strolling through the jungle. It was definately not yet the time for outdoor activities. In 1999 Dan Morris and a group of American climbers established the first routes on Eagle Rock, near Pak Ou. For the next years it was difficult to climb there, caused by burocracy and permit hassles. Nowadays it seems to be easier, a group of Polnish climbers around Jacek Kudlaty opened more routes in 2006. Unfortunately i still do not have their topos. Green Discovery has also an office in Luang Phra Bang and are offering climbing courses at another small cliff with beginner routes that were bolted by Hoi and Stuart in 2006. Volker Schรถffl 2006

Luang Phra Bang: Pak Ou â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Eagle Wall The cliff is located on the northerrn shore of the Nam Ou (Ou river), where it merges with the Mekong. The village Pak Ou is on the opposite side and can be reached either by an one hour boat ride from Luang Phra Bang or leaving on route 13 to the north, past the airport. After 32 km turn left onto a smaller road to the village and get a boat accross the river.

Pak Ou â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Eagle Wall

Pak Ou â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Eagle Wall 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13.

Mind the Bees 5.13 a Be here lao (no bolts) 5.10 c Looks easy but... 5.12 6 Aniyakata 5.12 a Choosy, Choosy 5.11 c Bhuntahn 5.12 c Mind the Lao Lao 5.7 32nd Soul 5.13 a 5.10 b Mr. Thavidet 5.12 6 Mind the stilts 5.11 a Mind the owl 5.10 d Phu Si Galore 5.10 b

All routes done by a group of American climbers around Dan Morris and Will Hair in 1999. 72

More Information On Rock Climbing in Laos:

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