Reign: Spring 2023 Print

Roam Magazine is CU Boulder’s first life and style publication. Roam aims to represent a diverse compilation of voices in order to cultivate a platform that engages and inspires dialogue surrounding fashion. Roam provides quality insight on Fashion, Lifestyle, Culture, and Art. Through its journalistic integrity, Roam seeks to deliver a variety of perspectives to engage with the Boulder community through our issues in both print and online.

Table of Contents

Inside the Life and Future: Vivienne Westwood

The Mordern Day Reclaiming of Corsets

Black by Popular Demand: How a Local Artist is Changing the Way We View Art

The Confident Regality of Lolita Fashion

An Interview With The Ritz

Old Hollywood’s Fashion Evolution

Dior: The Reign of John Galliano

Singin’ in the Reign: A Collaborative Playlist

Article by Sydney Hernandez

Photos by Matthew Batchelder

Article by Madeline Caruso

Photos by Evan Wang

Article by Grace Thorburn

Photos by Evan Wang

Article by Hallie Hannum

Photos by Sebastian Arnavat

Photos by Evan Wang & Kyle Kim

Article by Emma James

Photos by Evan Wang & Matthew Batchelder

Article by Emma James

Photos by Tylyn King

Roam Boulder Music Cohort

Photo by Evan Wang

Photos by Matthew Batchelder

Vivienne Westwood has played a prominent role in todays fashion industry, adding a modern take to the punk and grunge style. Westwood’s extensive array of priceless designs has gained her admiration from all over the world. Her passing will not lead to the end of the Vivienne Westwood brand; her name will continue on in history to be one of the most influential designers the fashion world has seen.

How did Vivienne Westwood come to be? The answer goes back to the 1970s, when the punk music movement had taken over. Westwood at the time had recently left her job teaching to pursue fashion, and was working with partner Malcolm McLaren to operate a secondhand vintage clothing store, with the first of many names being, “Let It Rock”. The store featured customized clothing items adorned with graphics and statements that appealed greatly to the young fashion ideals. These designs were provocative compared to those around them, leaving an impression on those who followed and sought out antisystemic messaging. This messaging came from Westwoods inspiration of the 1950s, “when the youth rebelled against age” (Beresford 2017). McLaren and Westwood had then moved to adding studs and chains to their clothing, following the trend of rock and roll.

Following this shift, leather became the epicenter of Westwood’s ideas. Westwood’s designs were a part of something greater: pursuing the notions of resistance and rebellion. Each piece had been made to make a statement about the political regime or as a protest. Steering clear from the hippie and pacifist forms of protesting, Westwood and McLarens work signaled to an anarchist approach.

McLaren had soon become the manager of the famous rock band, the Sex Pistols, leading McLaren and Westwood to dress the band and furthermore expanding Westwood’s clientele. Following her claim to fame, Westwood left the duo and became the individual designer of her pieces. Her grunge, provocative pieces had led to a more classical

her provocative flair creating unique designs had heavily interested the public. The use of Victorian fashion had gone on well into the 20th century, and became a staple in Westwood’s designs. Despite the fame Westwood attracted, she was able to stay true to her cause: being an advocate for injustice and wrongdoing in the world. Westwoods dedication to the environment and combating climate change had stemmed from following the climate revolution, dating back to the 1980’s . Creating “The Vivienne Foundation”, Westwood used her platform to promote activism and fight against big businesses and political leaders ignoring the climate movement. For more on the impact of Vivienne Westwood in regard to the climate crisis, visit http://climaterevolution.co.uk/wp/. Regardless of your own personal style or stance, Vivienne Westwood has undoubtedly created an everlasting mark on fashion and the use of fashion to promote change. Her legacy will continue to spark rebellious thinking and out-of-the-ordinary pieces of work.

Photo by Tylyn King

The Modern Day Reclaiming of Corsets

Madeline Caruso

Acorset is an “article of clothing worn to shape or constrict the waist.” As you walk down the street or attend any party, it is fascinating to see the number of corsets worn. They made a solid comeback in 2022 and are continuing into 2023. The simple explanation is because they are form-fitting and flattering. Furthermore, they are also often referred to as the epitome of femininity because of the stereotypical female shape it presents, as confirmed by the New York Times. So, maybe this comeback is more profound than their appearance and can be related to modern-day feminism.

Many years ago corsets were highly restrictive and hidden under long gowns in the Victorian era. In modern day, corsets are worn alone as a top or dress in public. Corsets were seen as an article of confinement, however, today, as the modern individual slips into the garment, it symbolizes freedom and empowerment. They have become a symbol of sexual empowerment now that they no longer oppress women.

Vivienne Westwood aided in the revolutionizing of corsets by wearing them as outerwear instead of an undergarment. Feminism is often changing fashion as we know it, and corsets are an example of this. Today, a person can wear a corset when they choose. After all, they want to, no longer because they have to. “This time the option is open to everyone, on our own terms,” author of Vogue article states. It is ironically liberating to put one on your body.

Society’s most affluent and prioritized celebrities have also shown their love for corsets. Model Bella Hadid is commonly seen wearing them in her street style, and Kourtney Kardashian even got married in a corset mini dress this past year. Corsets gained even more popularity at the 2022 MET Gala with the theme of Gilded Glamor. Celebrities such as Lizzo, Gigi Hadid, Billie Eilish, Sydney Sweeney, and Evan Mock took to the carpet synched. Vivienne Westwood, Marc Jacobs, Versace, and Dior were among many designers who took corsets to the 2022 and 2023 runway shows.

The highly successful TV show Bridgerton, which gained its popularity during the pandemic, has also aided in the comeback of corsets. Set in the Victorian era, the show highlights the negative symbolic representation of corsets. The show also tackled feminism by having a more progressive main character, who also always happened to be dressed in restrictive clothing.

Celebrities and influencers have aided in the current corset fashion trend seen everywhere. The many years of corsets being restrictive, both physically and representatively, have taken a turn. Not only are they flattering and feminine, but they carry a new symbolic meaning.

Photos by Evan Wang

Photo by Alejandro Paredes

Photos by Alejandro Paredes

Grace Thorburn

Photos by Evan Wang

Denver native, Alessia Redwine, is a junior at the University of Colorado Boulder with the aspiration of becoming a successful art curator and artist. Her main focus lies within the medium of painting, but also enjoys exploring mixed media. “I started painting my freshman year of college, and I haven’t stopped since that,” Redwine stated. She continued, “I do a lot of art, but right now I specifically focus on painting.”

Reframing artistic history to be more Redwine’s first painting series, Black by Popular Demand, focuses on recreating works of art that normally depict white women and repainting them as Black women. “I found pieces of art that were normally white women, such as ‘The Birth of Venus and Girl with a Pearl Earring’, and then I repainted them as Black women instead, Redwine stated. “There is a misrepresentation of Black women in the art industry. When Black women are showcased they are often shown as less than,” she shared. She goes on to say that “As a 21-year-old, I feel like I’m still seeing a lot of lack of representation. So, I’d say representation plays a big part in my art, and just expressing myself unapologetically and not apologizing for taking up space and being who I am.”

Reframing artistic history to be more inclusive was a driving force in Redwine’s series. The paintings are “a series of abstract renditions of historical works of art that originally focus on the elegance of white women.” Her inspiration struck during an art history lecture. She noticed the misrepresentation of Black women in great historical works of art and observed that “when they were featured in pieces, elegance and grace were often reserved for the white models. “I want to create paintings that highlight the joys of being Black rather than focusing on our pains.”

“Afrodite” (2021), is the first piece in Redwine’s series, Black by Popular Demand. It is a rendition of “Birth of Venus” (1485) by Sandra Botticelli. “I was inspired by Ebonee Davis’ January 2020 Essence magazine photoshoot. I purposely changed the pose of Afrodite’s body so she would embody confidence with her arms stretched at her side rather than covering her body with shame,” Redwine shared.

“Mama Lisa” (2022), is a rendition of the “Mona Lisa (1503)” by Leonardo da Vinci. Redwine was “inspired again, by Ebonee Davis who is one of my favorite models. My hope is that Black women see this piece and know our hair can be formal and elegant no matter the shape, size or stature.”

Alessia Redwine, “Afrodite”, 2022

“Rebirth of Afrodite” (2022), is a rendition of Alexandre Cabanel’s Birth of Venus (1863). Redwine said that, “here, Afrodite is sitting in her shell, I did this as a reminder that I, along with all Black women, will not stand to be disrespected, overlooked or taken advantage of. For this painting, I drew from one of SZA’s many iconic photo shoots.”

“I’m That Girl (with the Pearls)” (2022), is Redwine’s rendition of Girl with a Pearl Earring (1665) by Johannes Vermeer. “This piece was inspired by Zendaya’s 2020 Essence cover,” she shares, “I wanted to challenge myself with using materials that were 3D seeing as though I felt unsure on how to paint so many pearls on her headwrap.”

Redwine uses art to process various feelings such as grief, liberation, and acceptance. In the midst of finding her voice as a Black woman in America in spaces that are predominantly white, she is also in the process of finding her artistic voice. “My purpose is figuring out how to create work I’ve always wanted to see growing up. I think representation is so important, and growing up I didn’t see enough representation,” Redwine shares. “ I went to a predominantly white high school and now I go to a predominantly white university,” she adds, “My paintings focus on, if I had to put it in words, the experience of a Black woman in places that aren’t normally diverse. I like to focus on the perspective of Black people, and women more specifically.”

People in her life are oftentimes inspirations for Redwine’s art. This includes her family or any artist she looks up to. Long Beach-based artist Torin Ashtun is one of her primary influences as well as Van Gogh. Artist Winslow Homer’s work is “what I want to be as an artist,” Alessia said, “he has a really good way of showing joy…I’m hoping to be like him one day for sure.” She hopes to one day own an art gallery so that she can not only showcase her work but also emphasize other artists of color’s work.

As Alessia grows as an artist, “her art will continue to reflect and shine light on the joys of her experiences as a Black woman.”

Alessia Redwine, ”I’m that Girl (with the Pearls)”, 2022

Photos by Evan Wang

The Confident Regality of Lolita Fashion

Hallie Hannum

Photo by Sebastian Arnavat

olita is a subculture that originates from the Harajuku prefecture, the central hub of street fashion and culture in Tokyo, Japan. The style began emerging in Japan during the ‘80s and ’90s; the style was a rebellion against the society of commercialization and rigidity that was surrounding fashion and people’s – mainly women’s – bodies. The current fashion trends of the ‘90s and up until today, have mainly focused on mostly fitting clothing, “sexy,” and largely focused on outward appearances specifically. In Japanese fashion culture, Lolita has very specific but also very broad meanings. Rebels Market describes the meaning as such: “...in Japanese culture, the term Lolita represents cuteness, elegance, and modesty, hence its awesome aesthetic.”

Lolita fashion has a wide range of “archetypes” that are presented in the aesthetics of appearances. Typically the most common types of Lolita fashion presented are “sweet Lolita,” “gothic Lolita,” and “classic Lolita,” but there are dozens of different kinds with different appearances. The fashion gains its style inspirations from the Victorian era, Marie Antoinette, Rococo, and Alice in Wonderland, to name a few. The most common characteristics are the large bell skirts, frills, an abundance of accessories, ribbons, petticoats, lace, and bows. Although the fashion style derived from Japan, it has gained worldwide popularity, especially in the west, where that type of modest and elegant fashion is not usually as common as it is in other places. The appeal of Lolita fashion is often one that is hard for people to understand: it can come across as being very restricting, conservative, girly, and overall harboring limited views on women’s fashion that may be seen as negatively impacting. For the worldwide group of Lolita fashion admirers, it’s completely the opposite. Lolita to most is a place where they have found themselves in the clothes they wear, and are able to show their personality and appreciation for fashion (and

Japanese culture) in a form of dressing that is oftentimes the complete opposite of current fashion. They feel comfortable.

Many people often say that through Lolita fashion they have been able to find a wonderful community of other people who dress the same. They’ve been able to find likeminded people all around the globe. Despite its unconventional nature of very modest dressing and often very feminine appearances, those who dress in Lolita say they never truly felt like themselves in fashion as much as they have since starting to dress this way. Although the style has often been described as costumey or “cosplay,” those who partake in it do not see it that way. They aren’t putting on a costume to parade in for a show, they are simply putting on clothes that belong to a specific fashion, the same as anyone else in any other part of the world would. They aren’t using their clothes to hide behind, as others following current fashion trends may be, instead, they are using these clothes to be able to express themselves fully and what they love through their outfits.

Lolita is a fashion culture that has a community. It has a specific community of people who all love to dress this unique way and who want others to be able to feel the same sense of confidence and self-assurance that they have been able to find in this fashion. For them, dressing this way is their way of life, of expressing themselves fully, of having a good time with friends, and of showing their resistance to the negative impacts that modern fashion has had on themselves and others. Lolita is a fashion that is centered around authentic, abundant, and all-inclusive self-expression and the ability to feel confident in whatever you might wear.

And at the end of the day, is that not what fashion is truly supposed to be about?

Lolita is a fashion that is centered around authentic, abundant, and all-inclusive self-expression

Photos by Evan Wang

Photo by Aria Cohen

What builds personal style, who inspires the pieces in the closet, and how does the Ritz help cultivate these ideas? The Ritz chimes in their opinions.

Photos by Evan Wang

Susan (Ritz store owner!):

My first question is…does it go with combat boots? And the answer is, of course it does! Comfort always, paired with a little edginess. Who wants to be boring? I love the soft/hard contrast of a feminine dress paired with purposeful boots. Layer a leather moto jacket on top and a plush pashmina scarf and you’ve got it going. I’m loving the tencel crop cargos with military jackets over pretty tees. Or substituting ripped jeans as an alternative. Anything crochet is so happening; my fave is a hand made short cotton crochet kimono. Gorgeous! Also on my fave list is anything embroidered! There’s so much to choose from! Brands to look for in store are XCVI, Billy T, Mauritius, Paparazzi, Liverpool, Saachi.

Margrét (floor manager):

My personal style was born of limited resources. Growing up my family wasn’t financially able to shop for all the new, fast fashion trends that were popular among kids at my school (and fitting in wasn’t a high priority for me as a kid anyway). Instead my closet grew from clearance section shopping, hand me downs from my mom, free bins at garage sales, and above all, thrifting. As my interest in alternative fashion grew, we would shop at Halloween stores for pieces I’d wear all year round. As a result, I’ve never had one style that’s cohesive or consecutive. Instead I’ve always tried on trends, styles, and aesthetics the same way a little kid plays dress up. That’s part of what I love so much about The Ritz— there’s something for any person, with any style, and all fashion senses are welcomed and encouraged with open arms. My favorite things in the store right now are all things pink! A pink latex dress, baby pink Gogo boots, and I swear I have three different pink fuzzy coats from The Ritz. I also love Effie’s Heart swing dresses (they have pockets!), especially the ones with the cute mushroom prints. But the best part of working here is helping others find those perfect pieces that make their own heart sing <3!

Alex (Employee):

My style can be encompassed by the intersection of 70’s disco and bohemian maximalism. The inspirations for my draw to this blend are maximalism accounts on TikTok, the reemergence of 70s trends: bell bottoms, crochet, and fur trimmed coats (faux of course), and encouragement to thrift or upcycle. What this looks like for me is juxtaposing soft, graceful pieces with unexpected, bold prints. At the Ritz, I embody the essence of my style by clashing structured pieces with feminine accessories and constantly layering. My favorite items in the store right now are the long cream white sparkly skirt by Bear Dance, the holographic four inch platform boots, our multicolor crochet dress by N*1 Los Angeles, and all of our decades rental rack pieces (specifically the black and white cutout jumpsuit & the pink fur trimmed pants).

Landon (Employee):

I feel that ‘style’ is a very generous way to describe my fashion sense. That being said, I’m most definitely a dress for comfort type of person. However, I do get enthusiastic whenever I get the opportunity to help dress people up with the wide selection of clothes and costumes that we have available here at The Ritz. Especially when I get to help any gentlemen attending a formal event; between the razzle dazzle of our rhinestone Western Fashion brand blazers and our selection of rental vintage formal attire, I really take pride when we are able to find formal wear that someone actually feels comfortable in.

Hands down, though, my favorite is dressing people up for costumes! Everyone always has a fun story behind their occasion for wearing a costume, it’s never for a dull reason. We have so many unique options to choose from when it comes to costumes, it makes it tough to pick my favorite. But I absolutely love anything that glows in the dark!

Photos by Aria Cohen & Kyle Kim

Ciara (Employee):

For as long as I can remember I’ve always loved clothes and to dress up. My style doesn’t really have any prominent themes except for the colors, I never wear bright colors and usually stick to neutrals. Which definitely stems from my sister’s Justice hand me downs. It’s hard to explain my personal style; I sort of just know what I love and I know what I don’t and throughout the years I’ve definitely been inspired by musicians like Patti Smith, Marc Bolan and other artists from the 60s-70s.

I love so many things in the store, the Gogos, and our fuzzy jackets as well as our gorgeous jewelry. But some of my favorite things in the store are the weird costume items like our raccoon hats and costume jewelry. It’s fun to style things out of the ordinary, which is a huge reason I love this job. Helping people find an outfit that they feel confident and comfortable in can be a tumultuous but definitely rewarding process.

Photo by Matthew Batchelder

Photo by Tylyn King

Old Hollywood’s Fashion Evolution

Emma James

Photos by Matthew Batchelder & Evan Wang

Wealth deeper and larger than the imaginable, glamor beyond extravagance, parties lasting all day and all night; Old Hollywood had it all. The Golden Age of Hollywood lasted from the 1910’s to the 1960’s. The film industry was evolving and advancing, actors and actresses became idols for the American people, and the dream of working on movies was sparked. With the emergence of this new industry came a new culture with fame and power becoming something an ordinary person could come to achieve. The modern “celebrity” became an important part of American society, and they were everything people wanted to be. Exclusive parties were filled with expensive food, extravagant clothes, and elusive entertainment; appearances began to matter, and Old Hollywood took it to the next level.

Fashion for celebrities of the Golden Age became entertainment in itself for the American public. As women were unable to afford the luxurious designs their favorite actresses were wearing, they instead obsessed over the costumes and clothes of Hollywood movie stars. This meant it was crucial for studios to hire innovative and creative designers for their costuming. Outfits became even more extravagant with feathers, beading, large hats and heavy skirts becoming staples in set wardrobes. An example of this can be seen in the film Top Hat with Ginger Rogers, her dresses flaunted feathers and cascading beads. This style bled over into the fashion worn by celebrities off screen as well, parties and events became a runway.

The Old Hollywood era was filled with some of the most fashionable stars. One of the most well known and loved actresses and fashion icons of this time was Marilyn Monroe. Her style consisted of sophisticated glamor, with many silk silhouettes paired with luxurious furs and tall gloves. Audrey Hepburn was also adored for her classic style

throughout her career. It’s easy to picture her black dresses with full skirts and large hats with excess of ribbon. Creativity and expression were goals of designers as they worked alongside their celebrity clients, hoping to make America fall in love with their glamorous lifestyle even more.

Edith Head was one of these designers that propelled the ideal of the classic Hollywood era. Edith was a successful designer in Hollywood’s Golden Age. She began her career as a costume designer at Paramount Pictures with little to no experience. She quickly became one of the most well known designers in Hollywood and now has 8 Academy Awards for her designs in films such as Roman Holiday and Sabrina. Her looks captured the essence of regality and elegance, a modern royal. Large skirts, tight corset tops, detailed hats and shawls were all staples in her designs. Edith dressed Old Hollywood royalty including Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly, allowing her to go down in Golden Age history.

The luxurious life of Old Hollywood will forever be fascinating to the American people, both during its era and to this day. The glam and glitz sparkling eternally, bringing joy and light to entertainment society. Fashiwon is only one of the memorable aspects of the Golden Age and continues to inspire.

Photos by Evan Wang

Photos by Tylyn King

John Galliano is a British fashion designer known best for his work at Givenchy and Dior where he created extravagant haute- couture collections along with readyto-wear designs. His work at Dior shifted the classic feminine style Dior had produced since their first line in 1947. Influences from theater and the French Revolution inspired Galliano, and left Dior with some of its most memorable shows yet.

The British designer began his days working in his own studio in London where he was quickly recognized for his ingenuity and talent. He was awarded the British Fashion Council Designer of the Year in both 1987 and 1994, two years before his start at the house of Dior. Galliano was one of the first British designers to take over a French fashion house, bringing his “New Look” to Dior.

Before John Galliano joined the Dior Fashion House, the classic Dior style was much more conventional and sophisticated. Even their couture designs were extensively sharp lines, shoulder pads, and tailored suits. This familiar Dior style resembles the Dior we think of today. It is understandable why Dior falls back to this original style, it is practical to the consumer and well known by their audience. However, with the entrance of Galliano, Dior was reimagined.

Galliano’s love for historical and theatrical fashion can be seen through his designs in his haute-couture shows from Fall 2000 and Fall 2007, some of his most loved work. The 2000’s show brought an entire wedding ensemble including a priest and a reinvented Marie Antoinette, with the designs bringing elements of luxury and glam. Caked faces, extravagant hats, and bold costumey pieces embellished the models. Fall 2007 brought the familiar eccentric facade we can expect from Galliano. The dresses were lavish, in the most glamorous way; the dresses were decorated with feathers, ruffles, and pearls. Gallaino was able to create a vintage story of romance and drama during his time at Dior.

At Dior, Galliano was successful in bringing to life historical and melodramatic glamor. His pieces allow for expression of the excessive and love for the lavish. The overthe-top costumey designs were ahead of their time and can now be seen and appreciated in a new light. Both his couture and ready-to-wear looks are admired today.

Miley Cyrus is known for wearing vintage Galliano’s Dior, and has even posted on her social media about her love for his designs. Additionally, the Netflix TV show, Bridgerton, has taken inspiration for their costumes from Galliano. The show is known for its historical and impressive designs with similar elements of richness, draping, and headpieces.

The Galliano era at Dior was filled with storytelling and imagination: some of Dior’s wildest shows came from Galliano. Though his time at Dior was extravagant and beautiful, his reign quickly ended when Dior let him go due to his “odious behavior”. Galliano’s work will continue to inspire new creation and expression for future designers, allowing for the appreciation of art and fashion narrative in clothing.

Singin’ in the Reign

Collaborative Playlist Shuffling Encouraged

Roam Boulder • 27 Songs • 1hr 34 min

Make Me Your Queen

Declan McKenna

Dorian Agnes Obel

Tangerine

Blu DeTiger

I See Red

Everybody Loves an Outlaw

Killer Queen

Queen

Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend

Marilyn Monroe

Sunlight

Hozier

XS

Rina Sawayama

Heavy Is The Head That Falls With The Weight Of A Thousand Thoughts | Loathe

Some Things Cosmic

Angel Olson

Back to You

Twin Forks

What Do You Think About the Car

Aventine

Tangerine

I See Red

Sheer Heart Attack

Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend

Wasteland, Baby!

SAWAYAMA I Let It In And It Took Everything

Strange Cacti

Twin Forks

Soldier, Poet, King

The Oh Hellos

Flowers in Your Hair

The Lumineers

Hush

The Marías

Me and My Husband

Mitski

New Gold

Gorillaz, Tame Impala, Bootie Brown

Money Power Glory

Lana Del Rey

Primadonna

MARINA

I Don’t Want It At All

Kim Petras

Dog Days Are Over Florence + The Machine

Royals

Lorde

777

Joji

Money On That

Isaac Dunbar

Cloudbusting

Kate Bush

Gotsta Get Paid

Rico Nasty

Je ne sais quoi

Urias

Material Girl

Madonna

Dear Wormwood

The Lumineers

CINEMA

Be the Cowboy

New Gold

Ultraviolence

Electra Heart

I Don’t Want It At All

Lungs

Pure Heroine

Nectar

Banish The Banshee

Hounds of Love

Gotsa Get Paid

HER MIND, PT. 1

Celebration

Photos by Sebastian Arnavat

Photos by Matthew Batchelder

Photos by Sebastian Arnavat

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