All Saints Marketing Report by Robyn Armfield

ILLUSTRATED MARKETING REPORT 2013

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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY This report will establish the mother brand; All Saints, position within the market and its potential opportunities for growth. It will look at the launching of the sub brand, Intimates, a high quality lingerie range using innovative fabrications and design features. In doing this we shall see how this will improve sales and create a shopping environment that is easier for the consumer to take in and relate to. By choosing specified promotional strategies to take this sub brand to market it will be in keeping with the brand image. This continuity will be maintained through digitally advertising the products, and thus, the brand awareness and brand loyalty will be stronger. In turn this will improve the brand equity.

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CONTENTS

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MOTHER BRAND 11 SUB BRAND 37 PROMTIONAL STRATEGIES 65 APPENDIX 99 BIBLIOGRAPHY 143

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MOTHER BRAND RGArmfield

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We, at All Saints, are a design-led brand and we centre ourselves around our mission statement, which is integral to our business operations;

To create a brand that blends music and fashion into a potent formula of desirable clothing that expresses individuality and attitude.

All Saints Spitalfields

This is at the heart of our brand and everything that we do. Having this strong link with the music industry and being purely a British fashion retailer gives us our unique selling point. From constructing a Brand Onion (Appendix 1) we can clearly see that this represents us, as a brand and our strong values. (Fig 1)

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All Saints is now predominately digitally run, using technology to construct and enhance our brand personality, which is intrinsically linked to our consumer profile, for example, chic, quirky and rebellious. Our brand identity is central to our companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s concept and is demonstrated through its distinctive brand recognition. The use of factory machinery in stores and the distressed nature of our displays runs integral to the brand essence and subsequently its strategy.

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HIGHER

‘Masstige’ prestigious, luxury products for the masses All Saints, French Connection

MIDDLE

Your typical highstreet retailers Topshop, Zara, River Island

LOWER

Bottom end, cheap and cheerful Primark, New Look, H&M

Fig 2. From this extended pyramid of the mass-market level, it shows that we offer prestigious, luxury products for the masses, at the high end of the mass-market

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It is important to establish where we fit in the market pyramid. (Appendix 2) Ultimately we fall under the mass-market level. However this is not a true reflection of the brand. Under the mass-market level there is vast range of other brands. Further sectioning the mass-market level we are placed at the high end of the high street (Fig 2). It is our intention to move the brand into the middle market, on par with affordable luxury brands.

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From observing our competitors and constructing a positioning map (Appendix 3) we can see we are unique within the market. (Fig 3) Additionally from looking at designer brands, such as Rag & Bone, we offer the same types of high quality products but for lower prices. This benefit allows us to offer good competitive products.

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High Price

Fashion Leaders

Low Price

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Fig 3. Positioing map, correlating trend and price. Looking at both mass market and middle market competitiors, shows that we offer high quality, design led products, at a relatively high competitive price.

Fashion Followers

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INTERNAL

WEAKNESSES

Not led by trends Strong, clear brand identity High quality garments Short films that relate to the brand identity- distinctive style Unique style, product recognition Lookbooks, clean, simple Digitally run brand, no posters, tv adverts, very focused on social networking YOUTUBE page containing all their films, music sessions, campaigns

Previous financial difficulties Limited brand range, no underwear, sleepwear, homewear, petite/tall With only promoting digitallly it limits their audience Three different fonts as branding, this is confusing for the consumer as they all read differently to the eye, give different perspectives

OPPORTUNITIES

THREATS

Opening in the market to develop further i.e. intimate, currently only offering small amount of swim Could branch out and do a tv advert using one of their unique short fashion films

Consumer getting older and All Saints are still targeting consumers in their 20â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. This could hinder sales, need to cater to both ages Rise in cost of products, already started, could loose consumers Financial back, will All Saints go into administration again?

EXTERNAL

STRENGTHS

Fig 4. SWOT Anaylsis for All Saints

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The SWOT (Appendix 4) demonstrates that we are able to keep up-to-date with social networking sites, trends and promoting ourselves worldwide, (Fig 4) this gives us an edge over our competitors, such as French Connection, who are not as advanced with digital forms of communication (Fig 5). Our strong brand identity and design led fashion gives us our unique selling point and strong product recognition, combating threats to the company. The introduction of a sub brand is a great opportunity to develop into wider markets. The rebranding will bring All Saints back to its high status reaching a wider range of consumers.

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WEAKNESSES

Design-led products High quality garments Ever expanding product range, innovation and change Unique in its minimalist, simple, signature look- USP Strong advertising campaigns which successfully raise brand profile Customer loyalty due to product quality

‘fcuk’ started well and got brand awareness however it lowered the brand image. Slow uptake in the change of branding Left them with financial difficulties Financial problems in sales Largest cut in advertising budget out of all high-street brands

OPPORTUNITIES

THREATS

Speed up production time, quicker uptake of consumer wants Stronger advertising for product ranges other than men’s and womenswear e.g. fragrances, toiletries, home furnishings

Will it hit a downfall like before the ‘fcuk’ rebrand? Battling against cheaper highstreet brands e.g. Zara, Topshop The ‘fcuk’ brand image may stick and the brand may not be able to move on to present a new image Ad campaigns can only have limited impact on sales, need the whole package, if the consumer doesnt want it, it wont sell

INTERNAL

STRENGTHS

EXTERNAL

Fig 5. SWOT Analysis of French Connection, high street competitor to All Saints.

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CONSUMER IMAGE MAP

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By using segmentation variables (Appendix 5) we were able to construct a consumer profile, detailed in Appendix 6. As shown in the SWOT, we need to cater to the younger market and those who have been loyal to the brand and grown with us. Every decision made from design to end purchase is to please the consumer, continually asking ourselves, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;is the consumer happy?â&#x20AC;&#x2122;

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SUB BRAND RGArmfield

We plan to launch an intimates sub-brand, ‘All Saints Intimates’. Mintels, June 2013 (Appendix 7) underwear report states that:

The underwear market is forecast to grow by 10% in the next five years, driven by innovation in new fabrics and more fashion-led items. Mintel Underwear UK Report (2013)

This shows a great opportunity for All Saints to explore this opening in the market and expand. This enables All Saints Intimates to establish its position in the underwear market, initially introducing a variety of Women’s underwear, due to the trend that women are the main purchasers of underwear.

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Whilst Mintel points out the average woman spends ÂŁ43 a year on underwear, we will be targeting the higher end market where it is believed the growth will occur. Additionally the same report states, quality beats price on underwear items and consumers would prefer to purchase in store. These are all factors that will benefit us and our concept, as our products revolve around quality and in-store experience.

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Sub-brands can better segment an offer and provide greater choice, but multiples must take care not to confuse shoppers and weaken the impact of their core ranges. Ana Santi, Drapers Online (2007)

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Drapers indicates that introducing a sub-brand can be beneficial for the business as long as you keep to the brands core values and carefully plan its introduction. The concept in which we will launch All Saints Intimates, will stick closely to the brand identity, remaining consistent with existing All Saints products. A successful sub-brand needs to draw on the strengths of the mother brand and attract new customers as well as existing ones. It is my belief that the All Saints Intimates range will achieve this.

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From using Ansoffâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Matrix (Appendix 8) we can see by creating an Intimates range we fall within diversification, (Fig 6) which is considered the biggest risk. However companies need to diversify and take risks in order to be innovative and keep consumers engaged. The demand and desire for more is always present.

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DIVERSIFICATIONS

Fig 6. This shows the type of development from Ansoffâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Matrix

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Fig 7 shows that the essence of Intimates is the same as our mother brand, brand onion, due to the fact we want to keep a strong brand image that is consistent throughout and keeping to the All Saints core values. What differs is the values, focusing on the fabrication and innovation.

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Fig 7. All Saints Intimates, brand onion

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Fashion Leaders

As observed in the positioning map (Fig 8) the new sub-brand is ideally placed to explore an opening in the market for design-led, high quality products. The use of innovative fabrics and designs enables us to expand our brand into a new area, which we believe will be successful.

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High Price

Fashion Followers

Low Price Fig 8. Positioning map showing underwear retailers and where All Saints Intimates would sit.

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WEAKNESSES

Globally recognised Strong advertising, creating extensive media coverage and brand awareness Sets trends doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t follow them

Some advertisements have been banned, this does create controversy and media coverage however it is bad coverage and a set back financially Only appeals to a niche market Very highly priced

OPPORTUNITIES

THREATS

High street range options, like their collaboration with M&S, more of these may broaden their market

Some of their advertisements are pushing the mark, degrading women rather than empowering them, which is what the brand represents. Thtis could cause a loss in consumers

EXTERNAL

INTERNAL

STRENGTHS

Fig 9, SWOT Analysis for Agent Provocateur, trendsetters of innovative lingerie

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The positioning map shows Agent Provocateur is a competitor to us. From conducting a SWOT on Agent Provocateur (Fig 9) and researching into the brand, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clear they only appeal to a niche market due to the extremely high prices. They set trends rather than follow them, similar to our way of design. What differentiates us is that we will offer more affordable prices for a larger market of consumers. Additionally whilst Marks and Spencerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s; the current leading underwear retailers, would not be immediate competitors due to us initially launching high-end fashion-led products compared to functional underwear, we still need to analyse their position in the market. By looking at their strengths and weaknesses (Fig 10) we can identify and modify opportunities for All Saints Intimates, notably Marks and Spencers does not cater for the All Saints consumer.

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WEAKNESSES

Top underwear retailer Collaborations with highly recognisable people such as Rosie Huntington-Whitely. It attracts the younger market Quality products Offers basics, shapewear, sportswear and fashionable underwear.

Only small amount of younger market shop there

OPPORTUNITIES

THREATS

Expanding into fashion-led designs, with innovative fabrics

Primark are offering cheaper products and now one of the top underwear retailers

INTERNAL

STRENGTHS

EXTERNAL

Fig 10. SWOT Anaylsis for Marks and Speancerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, leading underwear retailer

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We will be keeping the branding true to the All Saints brand image. The name of the sub-brand will be â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Intimates.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; Clean, clear and to the point. (Fig 10) Keeping it vague allows room for growth within the new sub-brand, expanding to nightwear, loungewear and swimwear, eventually developing into a sister brand. WWW As we have previously established, All Saints is digitally inspired and heavily integrated across all social networking sites, such as Pinterest, Twitter, Facebook, Youtube (Appendix 9). The All Saints website is an essential communication tool for the brand, regularly being updated and refreshed.

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CONSUMER IMAGE MAP

The target market for â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Intimatesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; differs slightly, showing a more laid back consumer, ever interested in the new and the exciting challenges that lie ahead. (Appendix 10)

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PROMOTIONAL STRATEGIES RGArmfield

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The key is for us to engage our consumer and encouraging them to feel like they can interact directly with us, by adopting a variety of strategies. Aubery-Cound at Marks and Spencerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s state that:

If you do nothing else, make your site mobile-friendly and accessible via your smartphone- itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a key part of the multichannel strategy. Susan Aubery-Cound, director of new channel development for Marks & Spencer

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TWITTER FACEBOOK PINTEREST YOUTUBE INSTAGRAM RGArmfield

We have a strong presence on the top social networking sites and this will allow the sub-brand to link from them direct to the main pages. Refer to Appendix 11 when constructing tweets and status updates.

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POWER OF RETWEETING

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Facebook, however, limits individuality and is less dynamic, which in turn may effect the perception of us as a brand. We will have a presence but it will not be the main focus. Limiting the amount of updates on social networking sites will be necessary (Fig 11). Cross-promotion is vital however needs to be monitored to enable a consistent and strategic approach to our promotions. It is easy to measure the effectiveness of the updates due to the amount of retweets, likes and pins. (Refer to the timeline for all strategies.)

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Tweets posted during working hours Facebook updates in the evenings

Facebook

Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet

7th November- Winners of competition Email and tweet- teaser of the collection

3rd November- ‘Dare to Bare’ page launches, consumers pictures go live 1st November- Competition ends Email and tweet- teaser of the collection

Email and tweet- teaser of the collection

1st October- competition launched Email and tweet- teaser of the collection

Email and tweet- teaser of the collection

Digital and Social 35%

Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet

24th September- Blurred out image goes on All Saints webpage

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Visual Merchandising 30%

Adver:sing 10%

PR 15%

Personal Selling 10%

Facebook

Propor%on of each Promo%onal Tool

Facebook

Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet Tweet

15th January- Secret Sale

10th December- Christmas gift set promotion

Dare to Bare page still promoting and uploading consumers media, ongoing promotional tool

27th November- Blogging week

24th November- In-store launch, secret sale, only told about it when you walk into the store - New in-store iPads being used

23rd November- Private shopping evening for registered customers 22nd November- Staff Training 20th November- Short films released

17th November- Online launch, blurred out image revealed - Phone App launched Email and tweet- teaser of the collection

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Fig 11. Timeline of promotional strategies and percentage of each tool used

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An excellent approach that will be adopted is similar to Burberry (Appendix 12) and Free People. (Appendix 13) Furthering this concept and turning it into a competition. Customers send in pictures or videos of innovative footage; using Instragram, Vine or Twitter, hashtagging (#) AllSaints and AllSaintsIntimates. These will be filtered and the most eye-catching entries will be put onto the web page, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Dare to Bare.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; (Appendix 14) The top 20 entries receive 15% off their first All Saints Intimates purchase. This will be a great addition to our strategy by allowing consumers to interact with the brand and engage. Whilst also attracting a new younger market and adding something new to the existing All Saints shopper. We will use the new app; SnapChat, (Appendix 15) approach for the competition. This works due to being available for 3 seconds, thus teasing the consumer, triggering the want for more.

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5 bloggers, carefully picked fitting the brand identity and conveying a similar message, will be sent a set of underwear from the new range, asking them to blog for a week about where, how and what they are wearing the product with. This will increase brand awareness to a wider market.

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Registered All Saints customers will be emailed glimpses of the range, additionally tweeting to followers. In conjunction, we will produce an image of five models wearing the new range having aspects â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;blurredâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; out for suspense. Subsequently, we will reveal the remaining aspects of the image on the online launch date. (Appendix 16) Customers can click directly on the image and be sent straight to view and potentially purchase the item, showing various views of the product and giving suggested items how to style the underwear. This reduces the amount of clicks, creating ease of access for the consumer to purchase. It will also show us which product is proving most popular by the amount of clicks.

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Underwear, the majority of the time is brought in-store, as consumers can try it on and see the fit. To boost online sales we will launch a 3D fit program to our website and smartphone app, (Appendix 17) allowing the consumer to see how the products fit their body shape, resulting in an increase in online sales and a lower return rate.

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To in-keep with the brand identity we will create a short film, like the ‘Below the knee’ campaign. (Appendix 18) Five of the All Saints models will create a video clip of maximum 2 minutes, of them in public places, seductively showing glimpses of their underwear. (Appendix 19) The videos will go onto our youtube and web page. Online audiences have reached those of TV audiences; therefore we won’t be creating a TV advert. To measure the effectiveness of this we will use gross OTS (Appendix 20) also looking at reach and frequency.

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75% In Store It is key to remember that 75% of purchase decisions are made in-store, therefore in-store visual merchandising is an integral part to the success of the products. The layout needs to be in keeping with the brand identity, but also needs to be easily identified as a separate range within the mother brand.

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Customer experience is essential to sales, thus face-to-face interaction and overall experience can make or break a purchase decision. Staff training on the new products will be highly necessary. Shop assistants will be armed with tablets allowing them to help the shopper in making decisions; showing product comparisons and styling tips. The consumer can purchase there and then, no queuing required and if not in stock they can order it to their front doors all at the click of a button. The effectiveness of this can be measured by doing an in-store survey.

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Only one in seven consumers, however, stated that underwear endorsed by celebrities would encourage them to buy. June 2013 Mintel Underwear Report, Appendix 7

It is not our intention to use celebrity endorsements for Intimates, as evidence suggests that this does not assist sales of the product. Potential underwear consumers feel they cannot empathise with the celebrity â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;look.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;

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CONCLUSION The plan is consequently to launch this new sub-brand, Intimates, by executing all of these promotional strategies. This exciting initiative will be a great opportunity for us to expand our customer base as these approaches will be aimed at existing customers but will additionally introduce new customers to the All Saints brand. The close interaction with our consumers through the new promotional initiative, will allow us to create anticipation for the new sub-brand. Our consumers will continue to grow as the sub-brand becomes exposed. Through the continuation of promoting after the launch we will be ever increasing the brand awareness and brand loyalty. This in turn will give us greater brand equity leading to a successful new sub brand range and the room to develop further with; swimwear, loungewear and nightwear. This is a fantastic opportunity for us to expand and grow in an ever-increasing competitive market

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APPENDIX RGArmfield

APPENDIX 1

Harriet Posner, Marketing Fashion, Brand Onion Diagram

BRAND IN ACTION BRAND PERSONALITY BRAND VALUES ESSENCE Represents the heart and spirit of the brand

Lays the foundation of what a brand stands for

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Represents a set of human characteristics that could be associated with a brand. Defines personality and character

The brand onion evolves from the essence and heart of the brand to then establishing the brands values. From its brand values a company can then create a brand personality, which finally leads to how the brand is exposed to its consumers, also known as â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;brand in actionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Fig 1 shows the brand onion constructed for All Saints.

Represents how the brand identity is made manifest in reality

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APPENDIX 2

Harriet Posner, Marketing Fashion, Basic Hierarchy of Fashion

TRICKLE DOWN

Ideas from couture and designer catwalk shows filter down through the fashion market and are used as inspiration for ranges created by high-street retailers.

Haute Couture & Couture

High End Fashion Luxury designer & premium brands Middle Market Designer diffusion bridge lines affordable luxury retail brands middle market retail chains Mass Market High-Street multiple retailers

Value Markets Value fashion retailers discount retailers

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The market pyramid shows the hierarchy of levels within the fashion industry. It is broken down into five sections. The higher up the pyramid your brand sits the more luxury it is and the smaller the market is. All Saints falls in the mass market level, however wanting to progress into the middle market and move away from the high-street recognition.

BUBBLE UP

Ideas from street fashion and cultural subgroups gain momentum to become a trend that bubbles up through the hierarchy of fashion, eventually reaching the top when expensive designer versions are created.

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APPENDIX 3

Harriet Posner, Marketing Fashion, Positioning or Perceptual Map

LOW PRICE

BRAND A

A positioning map allows you to be able to work out where brands sit in the target market and where there are openings. It also allows you to determine whether you will compete with the competition directly or will differentiate your product offerings. Once placed it may make you want to reposition yourselves. The map above shows price along the horizontal and fashionability along the vertical. Brand E is high priced, fashionable products, where as Brand B is of a lower price and lower fashionability. Fig 3 shows where All Saints sits when looking at ‘Price’ and ‘Trend.’

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HIGH Fashionability- Strong interpretation of fashion trends

BRAND E BRAND C

BRAND D BRAND B

HIGH PRICE

LOW Fashionability- Strong interpretation of fashion trends

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APPENDIX 4

EXTERNAL

INTERNAL

Harriet Psoner, Marketing Fashion, SWOT Analysis

STRENGTHS

WEAKNESSES

Reputation of the company, brand or fashion label Distinctive signature style and USP Strength of the creative and technical tean working to support designer Strong relationships with suppliers Loyal core customer base Strong management and excellent ability to integrate business and desing functions Contract with very good PR company Good credit facilities with suppliers

No clear USP- undifferentiated products that look similar to other fashion labels Lack of creative and technical support. Designer has to do everything themselves and is overstretched Weak relationships with suppliers Not yet built a reputation with buyers and customer base not yet established Cash flow or financing problems Lack of business or marketing expertise Do not have a website or has one that custoemrs find difficult to use

OPPORTUNITIES

THREATS

Potential to take on an agent or PR company Relaxation of import duties, opening up of new markets Potential to diversify into subsidiary products such as stationary, homeware or beauty products Strategic alliances or opportunity to partner with others with complementary skills Rise of social marketing- opportunity to raise awareness and promote products New fabric or manufacturing technology New supply sources become available Government trade incentives

Changes in fashion trends, signature look of product goes out of style or becomes wrong for the market New competitor enters market Changes in import or export laws that affect pricing or supply sources Changes to exchange rates or interest rates Rise in operating costs Changes to trade laws Economic downturn- difficulty in gaining credit Key buyer drops the range

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A SWOT analysis collates all the information you have gathered and allows you to see the internal strengths and weaknesses of the brand and also showing potential opportunities and threats to the company. Once these have been established it is then used to work out how best to further the brand making sure opportunities arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t being missed and that weaknesses are being addressed.

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APPENDIX 5

Harriet Posner, Marketing Fashion, Segmentation Variables

DEMOGRAPHIC VARIABLES Gender Age Generation Ethnicity Marital Status Life-stage Occupation Education Income Social grade classification

GEOGRAPHIC VARIABLES Region Urban/ suburban/ rural Residential location Housing type Size of city or town Climate

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Segmentation variables allows the company to have more indepth knowledge of the target consumer. Allowing the brand to appeal to the consumers needs.

PSYCHOGRAPHIC & BEHAVIOURAL VARIABLES Lifestyle Social aspirations Self-image Value perceptions Purchasing motives & behaviour Interests & hobbies Attitude & opinions

USAGE & BENEFIT VARIABLES Benefits sought from products Usage rates Volume of purchases Price sensitivity Brand loyalty End-use of product

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APPENDIX 6 Robyn Armfield, Mother Brand, Pen Portrait

Rhia is a single female, who knows what she wants and how sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s going to get it. She lives in the city in a converted warehouse, furnished with unique pieces of art and furniture from quirky shops she has come across on her travels. She has a love for music, regularly attends gigs and her summer is packed full of festival after festival. She wants to travel the world and see everything she possibly can, living out of a backpack is something that excites Rhia. She also shops in places such as Urban Outfitters, Religion and Topshop. Her style is sleek and chic and distinctive to her. She has subtle face makeup focusing on heavy smoky eyes.

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styles such as hipsters/shorties and enhancing bras. The growth in 45-54s is positive as both women and men in this age group are more likely than average to have bought underwear, with females buying for their partners and men buying for gifting.

APPENDIX 7

MINTEL, June 2013, Underwear UK, Executive Summary There is potential for the underwear market to

SOURCE: HEALTH S capitalise on demand from an ageing population Underwear Executive Summary who is working for longer. Solution underwear June 2013 could be created with a health angle to help with FIGURE 3: REG Retailers are having to stock underwear in posture and to ease aches and pains.

Full report available; http://academic.mintel.com/display/638112/ THE MARKET Mintel estimates the underwear market has grown by 1.5% to almost ÂŁ2.7 billion in 2012, driven by competition in the market. The launch of THEgrowing MARKET

bigger sizes as the female population gets larger. Bravissimo, which specialises in larger sizes, AND COMPANIES, BRANDS stocks bras that go up to a size L, while Figleaves and Simply Yours have expanded ranges in Retailers are having to stocktheir underwear Retail shares to sells bras that go up to a cup size K. There is

Underwear Executive Summary INNOVATION June 2013

several new retailers in 2012, such as Victoriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bigger sizes as the female population gets larger. also much more choice available for larger busted Secret, has led existing players to up their offer. Mintel estimates the underwear market has grown Bravissimo,M&S which specialises in the larger sizes,leader in the continues be market women, with Wonderbra selling to strapless bras, (See Figure 1) by 1.5% to almost ÂŁ2.7 billion in 2012, driven by that stocks that go up to a size L, while Figleaves tend bras to besector associated with smaller sizes, and lingerie is critical to the retailerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s offer. growing competition in the The and up Simply Yours have expanded their ranges to cup size G. Triumph is expanding its Sales, however, have beenmarket. held back by launch the highof going The retailer has, nevertheless, seen falling general range of cup sizes with of appealing to There awomenswear level of replacement byas consumers several new retailers in buying 2012, and such Victoriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s to sells bras that gothe upaim to a cup size K. is merchandise sales and, while has broader customer base. opting spend on outerwear whichoffer. is Secret, hastoled existing players instead to up their also much more choice available for larger busted visible. (See more Figure 1)

The underwear market is forecast to grow by 10%

Sales, however, have been held back by the high LQ WKH QH[W ÂżYH \HDUV GULYHQ E\ LQQRYDWLRQ LQ QHZ level fabrics of replacement buying and by consumers and more fashion-led items. opting to spend on outerwear instead which is moreMARKET visible. FACTORS

been the worst performer, it is likely to have had women, with Wonderbra selling strapless bras, some impact on underwear sales. Olympics boost sports underwear that tend to be associated with smaller sizes, market going up toLingerie cup sizespecialists G. Triumph is the expanding its market and traditional range of cup sizes with the aim of appealing to in the sector such asdoM&S area facing Participation inleaders sports, particularly those who it customer base. onbroader a more occasional basis, has risen in 2012 on increasingly tough competition as clothing

the back of the London Olympic Athletics retailers such asGames. New Look and Uniqlo have and cycling haveboost seen the most growth. Purchases Olympics sports underwear expanded their underwear offer. The latest data from the Health Survey for by 10% RI VSRUWV EUDV DUH OLNHO\ WR KDYH EHQHÂżWHG IURP market The underwear market is forecast to grow England show a marked increase in the proportion this boost in sports participation and due to the LQ WKH QH[W ÂżYH \HDUV GULYHQ E\ LQQRYDWLRQ LQ QHZ 7KH YDOXH VHFWRU KDV EHQHÂżWHG IURP VWURQJ VDOHV of men and women who are obese. Obesity rates trend for sportswear in fashion. (See Figure 3) fabrics and more fashion-led items. Participation in sports, particularly whoado it elegant from Primark, which hasthose released new have gradually risen from 13% in 1993 to 24% in on a more occasional basis, has risen in 2012 on lingerie collection called Secret Possessions. 2011 for men and from 16% to 26% for women.

MARKET FACTORS (See Figure 2)

the back of the London Olympic Games. Athletics and cyclingLingerie have seen the most growth. Purchases specialists have performed well, with FIGURE 1: BESTAND WORST-CASE FORECAST VALUE SALES OF UNDERWEAR, 2007-17 The latest data from the Health Survey for OF UK RETAILRI VSRUWV EUDV DUH OLNHO\ WR KDYH EHQHÂżWHG IURP )LJOHDYHV PDNLQJ LWV ÂżUVW IXOO \HDU SURÂżW DQG $QQ England show a marked increase in the proportion this boost in sports participation and due to the 6XPPHUV VHHLQJ SUH WD[ SURÂżW FOLPE 6HYHUDO ELJ of men and women who are obese. Obesity rates trend for sportswear in fashion. (See Figurehave 3) entered US-based underwear specialists have gradually risen from 13% in 1993 to 24% in the UK market in the last few years, including 2011 for men and from 16% to 26% for women. Victoriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Secret and Gilly Hicks, while Boux (See Figure 2) Avenue has been on the expansion trail. This is forcing the existing lingerie specialists such as La

FIGURE 1: BEST- AND WORST-CASE FORECAST OF UK RETAIL VALUE SALES OFto UNDERWEAR, 2007-17 Senza up their game.

What We Think

Department stores have also invested in their underwear departments, with Debenhams newly refurbished Oxford Street store dedicating the whole basement to womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lingerie and footwear There has been growing competition in theand underwear market in 2012, Selfridges launched a new menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bodywear with US-based Victoriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Secret having launched in the UK and department in Marchlingerie 2013 with the longest specialists including Gilly Hicks and Boux Avenue opening new stores.Supermarket chains are underwear wall in Europe.

Alongside this, clothing retailers such as New Look and Primark have been focusing more on their underwear ranges. Consequently, the existing players in the market have had to up their offer. The result for consumers has been greater choice and a more vibrant underwear market. SOURCE: MINTEL

There have been numerous underwear and celebrity collaborations in 2012 including the Rosie Huntington-Whiteley Autograph range for M&S, Kelly Brook for New Look and H&Mâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s David Beckham campaign for its Bodywear range. Only one in seven consumers, however, stated that underwear endorsed by celebrities would encourage them to buy. Collaborations are therefore becoming more about the marketing opportunities and less about the sales. It is a way for retailers to draw attention to themselves in an increasingly crowded underwear market. 1

SOURCE: MINTEL

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British consumers donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t buy new underwear very often and replacement is one of the main motivators. Only buying new items when your old ones have worn-out is much more common for underwear than for clothing or footwear, particularly for women. At the same time over half

* regular participat

less than once a m SOURCE: MINTEL

also improving focusing on hi womenswear a of its TU range to its larger st

Whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s inno

Mango is one o retailers to be the company w sportswear lin autumn 2013.

Shapewear an increasingly fa designs and ne big brands inc as Rosie Hunti shapewear line

latest fashion for men, driven in part by David Beckham’s Bodywear range for H&M launched in February 2012.

Where underwear is bought M&S remains the market leader in underwear, ZLWK RYHU WZR ¿IWKV RI ZRPHQ DQG WKUHH LQ WHQ men having bought from the retailer in the last 12 months. While M&S underwear shoppers peak amongst over-55s, it is also popular among 3544s, highlighting that it has a broader customer base for underwear than for clothing. (See Figure 7)

New weight loss technology is working its ZD\ LQWR WKH XQGHUZHDU PDUNHW DV VFLHQWL¿F innovations in fabric allow the garments to aid with slimming in addition to shaping.

Primark is the second favourite place for women to buy underwear after having put greater emphasis on its underwear offer in the last year. It is the number one choice for female under-25s, with half shopping there, while it is most popular among men aged 35-44.

Approximately 23.9 million women, equivalent to just over nine in ten females in the UK, bought underwear in the last 12 months. (See Figure 4)

Over a third of consumers bought their underwear from supermarkets in the last 12 months. Supermarket shoppers peak amongst 45-54s for women, while they are biased towards 25-34s among men. 7ZR ¿IWKV RI ZRPHQ ERXJKW XQGHUZHDU RQOLQH in the last 12 months, peaking among 25-34s. Similar numbers of men purchased underwear online, although the age range is much broader, from 16-44s.

Amount spent on underwear Mintel’s research for this report found that women have spent an average of £43 on underwear in the last 12 months, while men have spent £32. (See Figure 8)

Three in ten women buy underwear for their men Almost three in ten women buy underwear for their partner. A broad age range of married women aged 25+ do this, although this peaks among 45-54s.(See Figure 9)

Women are most loyal When buying underwear, women are more brandloyal than men, with almost half tending to always buy from the same retailers, while this drops to OHVV WKDQ WZR ¿IWKV RI PHQ

FIGURE 4: WOME

SOMEONE ELSE E

SOCIO-ECONOMIC

Base: 1,000 fema

THE CONSUMER Women are the main purchasers

Underwear purchasing peaks among young women, while single men aged 16-24 are the least likely to buy underwear. This shows the contrast between young males’ attitudes SOURCE: GMI/MINTEL towards clothes and underwear and highlights potential for retailers toONLINE encourage FIGURE the 7 : RETAILERS IN-STORE AND FROMhigher WHERE UNDERWEAR WAS purchasing among this demographic. Note: Green line is th BOUGHT FOR SELF OR SOMEONE ELSE IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS, BY GENDER, APRIL * Small sub-sample

2013

Women and types underwear Base: 1,000 female and 1,000 maleof internet users aged 16+ While three quarters of women bought pants in the last 12 months, the types and cuts purchased vary greatly depending on age. Under-25s favour thongs and hipsters/shorties, while the more classic briefs are bought the most by over-45s. (See Figure 5)

SOURCE: GMI/MINTE

FIGURE 5: TYPES

RECEIVED AS A G

Base: 1,000 fema

Young women are also more experimental with their bras and purchases of enhancing bras and strapless/multiways bras are skewed towards this age group. This age group are likely to be looking IRU EUDV WR JR ZLWK WKHLU GLIIHUHQW RXW¿WV DQG more unusual cuts of clothing in line with fashion trends. Less than a quarter of women have bought coordinated bra and knicker sets, showing that this is not considered a priority in the UK. Only one in eight women bought shapewear for themselves and purchasing still seems to be limited to older women, with over-55s most likely to have bought it.

Men and types of underwear SOURCE: GMI/MINTEL

*LIWLQJ DFFRXQWV IRU D VLJQL¿FDQW SDUW RI VDOHV RI men’s 4 pants, with only seven in ten men having bought pants for themselves in the last 12 months ZKLOH WZR ¿IWKV KDYH UHFHLYHG WKHP DV D JLIW (See Figure 6)

This Mintel report has been key to the research, into starting a new underwear subbrand. It shows that the underwear market is still growing, particularly with innovative fabrices, which is what All Saints Intimates will focus on. It also shows that celebrity endorsements are not good for increasing sales when used for underwear brands.

SOURCE: GMI/MINTE

<RXQJ PHQ DJHG OLNHO\ WR KDYH UH a gift than bagg are almost equa shorts as tighte

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APPENDIX 8

Mike Easy, Fashion Marketing, Ansoffâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Matrix

Ansoffâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Matrix allows you to recognise four different ideas for growth within the company. Market penetration is when you continue to sell an existing product in the existing market, intending to improve current market position. Market development allows you to develop further with an existing product, promoting it to a new market. Product development is the development of a new product, however in an existing market. Diversification is when taking the highest risks. It is when you develop a new product to a new market.

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NEW PRODUCTS

Consolidation or market penetration

Product Development

NEW MARKETS

EXISTING MARKETS

EXISTING PRODUCTS

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Market development

Diversification

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APPENDIX 9 Social Networking Sites

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All Saints has a presence on a larger variety of social networking sites, this allows them to appeal to many different markets. They ensure that the majority of there sites are visually pleasing, as this is more effective in the fashion market.

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APPENDIX 10 Robyn Armfield, Sub Brand, Pen Portrait

Amelia, who prefers to be called Millie, is a single female. She lives in the city away from her parents, yet still has a high disposable income. She is currently in a job that she doesn’t love and is waiting to travel the world to find something she is passionate about. There is no way she will function throughout the day without her morning coffee. It is her home comfort. Millie’s style is leaning towards chic, rock and she is always open to new trends and styles. Her guilty pleasure is shoes and lingerie. She loves to spend her time at quirky haunts, such as Camden market, flee markets, underground clubs and gigs. The unknown is a thrill to her, she loves to go with the flow and she lives by ‘something new a day keeps the doctor away’

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APPENDIX 11 Buddy Media, Social Network Report

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This report is key to social networking posting. It allows us to work out what will give us the best results. How much is too much- this is vital when cross promoting so we donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t end up over loading the consumer and causing a negative affect.

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APPENDIX 12 Burberry, ‘Art of the Trench’

Burberry have created a page on there website called ‘Art of the Trench’. Here consumers of any style Burberry trench can upload their own images of how they wear their coat. It works really well, egaging the consumer.

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http://artofthetrench.com

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APPENDIX 13 Free Peoples, FPME Style Community

http://www.freepeople.co.uk/fpme/style-pics/

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Free People have created a page where consumers can upload images of them in the products. They also link these images to the products that are being worn. They have the images on a seperate moodboard style page allowing people to â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;heartâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; and comment on them. They also have the images on the product page giving the consumer ideas of how to wear the item.

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APPENDIX 14 Robyn Armfield, ‘Dare To Bare’ webpage

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The ‘Dare To ‘Bare’ webpage wil have al ink from the All Saints website and this will have all the images in which consumers have sent in for the competition. Images and videos will falsh up for a couple of seconds only giving a teaser. The viewer will be able to choose from a variety of songs to play whilst looking through the pictures. It will be kept up and running after the competition has ended aswell. So that the consumers can still upload new pictures regularly.

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APPENDIX 15 SnapChat App

The SnapChat App is available for all smartphones. It allows you to send pictures and short videos of your choice, usually of yourself, to your friends. You can add text and drawings to the images. The main catch is that they are short snaps that disappear after a certain amount of seconds, chosen by yourself. This element works well as it gives a teaser of the image, sometimes even leaving the person missing the image and wanting to see more.

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APPENDIX 16 Chelsea Football Club, Football Kit Reveal

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=m9kAH2v9200

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This is the Chelsea Football Club 2013/2014 season kit reveal. The image of the players covered in blue paint was released prior to the reveal. The closer the reveal got, images were released of certain parts of the kit, for example, the badge, the stripes, the collar. On the launch day an image of the players was released with the paint all dripped of to their ankles showing of the whole kit. This works really well and allows the audience to stay engaged and wanting more. The intimates launch will take the form of this but in a more seductive way, teasing the consumers.t

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APPENDIX 17

Robyn Armfield, Mobile Phone App, 3D Fit Programme

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The phone app allows consumers to upload a picture of themselves and them try on the underwear to see how it fits their bodyshapes. Giving a 360â&#x20AC;&#x2122; view of the products. This will help with online underwear sales, due to online sales being less than instore due to consumers not being able to try on the products.

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APPENDIX 18 All Saints Webpage This campaign was made and launched with the new shoe collection. It is a series of short films, filmed just below the knee only showing the shoes. It is of 10 dominatrixâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and their lives in New York City. I will take this concept by creating short films of a number of models in public places, seductively revealing parts of their underwear. It will show off the underwear whilst also showing the power of women.

http://www.allsaints.com/film/

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All Saints Film is our newly launched in-house company, committed to expressing the diverse elements of the brand and its digital community through exclusive content. Capturing the spirit and attitude of the brand, AllSaints Film explores everything from music, style and street documentaries to cutting-edge moving image installations.

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APPENDIX 19 Robyn Armfield, Short Film Storyboard Snapshots

Snap shots from the short film storyboard. The models will take short videos of themselves in public places, seductively showing bits of their underwear. The women will be teasing the viewer and creating a powerful image women.

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APPENDIX 20 Measuring Effectiveness of Advertising

OTS

OPPORTUNITY TO SEE

Opportunity to see is the frequency an advert is exposed to its audience Figures are retrieved by doing surveys, interviews or having part of the target audience keep diaries as to how many times theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been exposed to the advert. This will come up with an average figuer which then can be compared with previous camapigns to whether it has performed aswell as them.

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AVERAGE OTS Indicates how many people have been exposed to the advert.

GROSS OTS Figure that is found by adding together the OTS values for the individual adverts that make up a particular campaign.

For exapmle the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Below the kneeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; videos

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All Saints (2013) [online] Available from: http://www.allsaints.com [Accessed 5th October 2013] Bergin, O. (2013) All Saints Launches Film Company. [online] Available from: http://fashion.telegraph. co.uk/news-features/TMG10056261/AllSaints-launches-film-company.html [Accessed 7th October 2013] Bickle, M. (2011) Fashion marketing. theory, principles, & practice. New York. Fairchild Buddy Media (2012) Strategies for Effective Tweeting: A Statistical Review. [online] http://www. slideshare.net/truthdefender/strategies-for-effective-tweeting-a-statistical-review [Accessed 3rd December 2014] Burberry (2013) Art of the Trench. [online] Available from: http://artofthetrench.com [Accessed 16th December 2013] Diamond, J and Diamond, E. (1999) Fashion Advertising and Promotion. New York. Fairchild. Easy, M (2009) Fashion Marketing. 3rd Edition. United Kingdom. Wiley-Blackwell John Wiley & Sons Ltd. Fashion Forum (2007) Agent Provocateur-Philsophy. [online] Available from: http://fashion-forum.org/ fashion-brands/agent-provocateur.html [Accessed 12th November 2013] Free People (2013) FPME Style Community. [online] Available from: http://www.freepeople.co.uk/ fpme/style-pics/?sortType=trending [Accessed 16th January 2014] French Connection. (2013) [online] Available from: https://www.frenchconnection.com/content/ marketing/fashion-is-our-business.htm#subNav [Accessed 23rd October 2013] Jackson, T and Shaw, D. (2009) Mastering Fashion Marketing. Basingstoke. Palgrave Macmillan. Marks and Spencers (2014) [online] Available from: http://corporate.marksandspencer.com [Accessed 24th November 2013] Mintel (2013) Underwear- UK- June 2013. [online] Available from: http://academic.mintel.com/ display/638112/ [Accessed 27th October 2013] Moore, G. (2012) Fashion promotion : building a brand through marketing and communication. Lausanne. AVA Pegg, A. (2013) Digital part 2. [online] Available from: https://mycourse.aub.ac.uk/bafdt/files/2013/10/ digital-patrt-2-AUB.pdf [Accessed 28th November 2013] Posner, H. (2011) Marketing Fashion. London. Laurence King Publishing Ltd. Santi, A. (2007) Bring on the Sub Brands. [online] Available from: http://www.drapersonline.com/news/ bring-on-the-sub-brands/373003.article [Accessed 10th December 2013] Tungate, M. (2012) Fashion Brands: Branding style from Armani to Zara. 3rd Editions. New Delhi. Kogan Page Limited.

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IMAGE LIST All photographs taken by Robyn Armfield are signed and copyrighted All other imagery is from the All Saints website unless stated otherwise Imagery can be found on: http://www.pinterest.com/robynarmfield/all-saints/ http://www.pinterest.com/robynarmfield/intimates-research/ http://www.pinterest.com/robynarmfield/store-aesthetics-all-saints/

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