MiNDFOOD May 24 - Beyond Barcelona

BEYOND BARCELONA: A DELICIOUS MADNESS

Catalonia’s capital, Barcelona, is one of the world’s flashpoints for the so-called overtourism phenomenon, but just a short ride by fast train will see you in delightful Girona – or its famous neighbour, Figueres.

WORDS BY RODERICK EIME

Away from Barcelona’s Sagrada Família and the popular Las Ramblas, lie the twin towns of Girona and Figueres, two settlements with similar histories yet distinct lives of their own.

Figueres, just 30 minutes by train from Girona, lays claim to one of the most visited art museums in all of Spain, the Dalí Theatre-Museum, where surrealist devotees are drawn like moths every year. The brilliant artist and consummate showman dazzled his fans and perplexed the critics with outrageous antics and stunning works of art which included everything from paintings and sculpture through to jewellery, costumes and movie set design.

Time itself melts just as Dalí’s famous clocks ooze from the canvas as you wander the halls and corridors of this bizarre palace, devoted to the voluminous works of the eccentric Catalan who was both born and buried in Figueres. In fact, his remains are interred in a vault within the museum itself.

Whether you want to argue that the abundant art and design culture found in Figueres and the surrounding Empordà (region) is a result of Dalí’s influence or the other way around, it matters little. What you find today is a concentration of museums and galleries in the little city, all within a stone’s throw of Dalí’s opulent mausoleum.

The Museu de l’Empordà features the art and design work of lesser luminaries such as Santos, Reig, Vallès, Planells, Massanet, Gabriel and Mitjà, as well as Dalí himself.

The Technical Museum of the Empordà is famous for its collection of classic typewriters, while the smaller Toy Museum of Catalonia is nonetheless rich in fantastic playthings from dolls, board games and tin soldiers to slot cars and fantasy teapots.

GO YOUR OWN WAY

Call it a coincidence but independentminded Catalonia, with its own language, culture and flag, can be said to be a reflection of Dalí in that it shines like a beacon for tourism, captivating visitors with its eclectic appeal, often to the annoyance of the staid and predictable central parliamentary monarchy.

Figueres, whose population barely nudges 50,000, is about half the size of Girona yet retains the ornamental rural décor accumulated over the centuries, despite being bombed heavily during the Spanish Civil War of 1936-1939. In fact, Catalonia was on the losing side in that brutal conflict and may go some way to explain the pent-up persecution and hostility that is still displayed by the central government when the issue of a fully independent and separate Catalonia is raised.

Industrious and relatively prosperous, Catalans have become somewhat sanguine about independence since the failure of their movement in recent years. Scratch the surface and some still cling to their desire for autonomy. Catalan flags, once bright and proud, now drape faded and tattered from flagpoles and streetlamps. Brazen slogans like Som una nació.

CATALAN CUISINE

Catalonia’s native cuisine draws on its neighbours, France and Italy, with some Jewish and Moorish influences. The Mediterraneanstyle food boasts ingredients of both land and ocean. Big on any menu are peas, beans, eggplants, tomatoes, pasta, artichokes, crusty bread and olives, along with pork, beef and fish such as cod, tuna, sardines and anchovies. The favourite local wine is tempranillo, a full-bodied red.

Nosaltres decidim (“We are a nation. We decide”) now go almost unnoticed on dusty walls and buildings.

STARRING GIRONA

Movie buffs won’t need to be told about Girona’s star quality. Set designers could not have purposebuilt a more authentic cityscape than the ancient town itself with its many secret alcoves and shadowy stone nooks. In fact, the whole coastal region, known colloquially as the ‘Costa Brava’ has a cinematic history stretching back more than a century.

Girona even has its own Museum of Cinema.

More recently Girona has enjoyed a return to the limelight, albeit on the small screen, via HBO’s hugely successful historical fantasy, Game of Thrones. In season six, Girona’s Old Town was transformed into the streets and landmarks of King’s Landing and Braavos for two weeks in September 2015 when actors and even some local extras played their part in key scenes. The major set-piece was the 1,000-year-old Romanesque Catedral

de Santa Maria de Girona when it became the Great Sept of Baelor in King’s Landing, its size and inherent grandeur further enhanced by the latest CGI effects.

The Monastery of Sant Pere de Galligants, the Arab Baths, and many of the old stone bridges and narrow alleyways had their respective moments, creating a prominent leap in visitation numbers as the many fans came for that all-important selfie, particularly on the steps of the Cathedral. Today you can join one of several themed tours during which you can explore in detail every location used in the filming.

TWO-WHEEL TOURING

Girona’s ecotourism credentials are bolstered by the widespread use of bicycles, not only for personal transport but also as a means to explore the city and the wider region. Cycling enthusiasts and tourists come from all over Europe and beyond to ride the serpentine roads that one writer described as “like wandering into the home of the professional

peloton.” This assertion can be supported by the fact that numerous prominent cyclists have homes in the region including former professional racer David Millar who remarked, “One of my friends said I should come and check out Girona. I didn’t even know where Girona was. My wife and I came here and within two days we knew it was where we wanted to live.”

Add veteran Australian rider Rory Sutherland, who owns the Federal Café, and another former professional, Christian Meier, who also owns three hip establishments in town, including La Fabrica Girona. Factor in the pleasant year-round weather, delightful roads, sympathetic drivers and great scenery, and you have a near-perfect cycling destination.

But you don’t need to be a ‘peloton’ racer to enjoy the pleasures of two-wheel touring around Girona. The Burricleta network provides tours and e-bikes all through the region. Join a tour or go it solo. These clever machines look for all the

TOP TIPS

Girona and Figueres are both less than an hour from Barcelona main station, which also links to the airport (BCN).

The Hotel Nord 1901, located in the historical and commercial heart of Girona, is a renovated historic building, offering sophisticated and well-equipped rooms and apartments. In Girona, be sure to visit Rocambolesc, a famous gelateria started by Catalan Michelin-starred chef, Jordi Roca. Their amazingtasting ice-creams are works of Dalíesque art.

world like your regular pushbike but come with a secret battery pack that nudges you along nicely on the steeper bits. It’s not really cheating because you still get your pedalling exercise, you just get to explore further without getting exhausted.

And there is plenty to explore, both around the city and in the nearby countryside. Take a picnic and enjoy a break under the olive groves, it’s superb. Of course, if time is on your side, you can easily enjoy the same locations while meandering on foot.

When quizzed about what makes him happy, Dalí coined a famous quote that could easily be the mantra for any visitor to Girona, Figueres or Costa Brava. You may wish to test it for yourself: “There are some days when I think I’m going to die from an overdose of satisfaction.”

PHOTOGRAPHY: CATALAN TOURISM; ÀLEX TREMPS.ARXIU IMATGES

Clockwise from top, left Besalú on the Costa Brava is a magnificent example of a medieval town; Walking the 217-km Camino de Ronda on the Costa Brava; The Dali Theatre-Museum in Figueres captures the imagination even before you step inside; Spanish ham for sale.