Kimberley Rock Stars

WORDS BY RODERICK EIME

There wasn’t much life on Earth 1,800 million years ago when the dramatic rock formations that characterise Australia’s Kimberley were formed.

About 1,000 million years later, the most basic of carbon molecules first came together to begin multicellular life as we have come to know it.

Imagine the incalculable forces at work. Picture the immense pressure and temperatures needed to ‘fold’ the solid rock layers like so much Danish pastry into waves that tipped once vertical formations on their sides.

Those of us aboard the tiny Zodiac with a penchant for geology are in awe of the contortions of the ancient sandstone which, if we had been paying attention at expedition guide Brett Kitchener’s lecture aboard PONANT’S Le Lapérouse, we would know as King Leopold, Warton and Pentecost sandstone dating back almost two billion years. It’s a powerful demonstration of both nature’s fury and beauty.

Ancient rock is but one of the many attractions drawing visitors to the Kimberley. Here at Talbot Bay, we are guests of the Dambimangari (Worrorra) people. It is home to the famed Horizontal Falls, described by naturalist and broadcaster Sir David Attenborough as one of the world’s great natural wonders. The falls are actually made up of two ‘gaps’ – a wide (20m) gap and a narrow (10m) gap – each about 300m apart across two natural basin reservoirs, formed by the same incredible forces all that time ago. As we approach in our Zodiacs, the torrent is fed by the region’s enormous tidal flow and presents an opportunity to traverse both gaps in safety while still experiencing the wonder of this unique phenomenon.

CROCS & WALLABIES

Talbot Bay is known by the traditional name of Lalang-garram, chosen from the Worrorra language and meaning “the saltwater as a spiritual place as well as a place of natural abundance”.

During our brief visit to these sacred waters, we are fortunate to see stealthy saltwater crocodiles and elusive, oh-so-cute rock wallabies, all the while being surveyed by majestic sea eagles, osprey and brahminy kites.

Beneath the waters are a plethora of marine life that has evolved from these microscopic formations. Giant barramundi share the rich submarine environment with more than 50 other species including salmon, cod, perch, snapper, mackerel and tuna. The serene dugong are also spotted by the keen-eyed among us, along with nurse sharks, while turtles frequently pop up for a ‘sticky-beak’.

Let us not forget that the miraculous evolution of multicellular life has also produced a species that have constructed machines that defy gravity and traverse the surface of the Earth at high altitude – as well as designed and launched vessels that utilise the planet’s abundant oceans to reach into the far recesses of where land and sea coincide.

NEW SHIPS & ADVENTURES

This brings me to PONANT’s Explorerclass expedition vessels, a fine example of how ships have evolved for specific purposes and are able to navigate waters that prohibit the passage of regular cruise ships. Slightly smaller than PONANT’s 264-passenger Borealclass vessels introduced in 2010, the Explorer class first saw service in 2018 with the launch of the 184-passenger Le Lapérouse which has been operating in the Kimberley since 2019. This year PONANT will operate three ships in the Kimberley: Le Lapérouse, the Boreal-class Le Soléal and Le Ponant, the company’s luxury flagship sailing yacht, carrying just 32 guests in exclusive style. At the time of writing, Le Lapérouse was confirmed for the Kimberley in 2024, to be joined by another Explorer-class sister ship, Le Jacques-Cartier while Le Soléal heads to the northern Pacific. It’s been nearly 20 years since my first Kimberley expedition and in that time demand for the destination has greatly increased. New ships and operators are arriving all the time and not all are as well prepared as PONANT. As with many expedition destinations, local knowledge and experience are key. PONANT has secured stalwart Kimberley expedition leader Mick Fogg, to oversee the entire operation. His name will be familiar to many former passengers, who invariably praise his deep scientific and cultural knowledge coupled with an uncanny ability to impart it.

Ancient Rock Art

“Numerous examples of indigenous Wandjina and Gwion Gwion rock art, the oldest known depictions of the human form on the planet, reveal a time capsule from man’s earliest occupation some 40,000 years ago, following arrival of the first migrations out of Africa,” Mick tells us during his comprehensive briefing to a packed auditorium on board.

Ashore, we can almost fathom these beautiful portraits as we admire the ancient frescos at Jar Island and Swift Bay and ponder the people who lived here thousands of years ago.

WHAT MAKES PONANT’S EXPLORER CLASS SO SPECIAL?

Taking architectural cues from the company’s much-lauded Boreal class, PONANT’s clever designers packed those features into a more compact superstructure while retaining benefits enjoyed by the ever-growing list of the cruise line’s repeat passengers.

BOOK NOW

PONANT’s Kimberley season extends from April to October with their signature voyage, ‘Australia’s Iconic Kimberley’, operating between Broome and Darwin and vice versa over 11 days and 10 nights. The 2023 prices vary depending on departure date, but start from $10,280 per person. Its Kimberley itineraries include classic must-see highlights such as the Hunter River, King George Falls, Mitchell Falls, Montgomery Reef and Horizontal Falls, as well as many other rarely visited destinations. For full details and availability, contact PONANT on 1300 737 178 or visit ponant.com

Our voyage is enriched with such fascinating locations as Montgomery Reef, where an ancient terrestrial tableland appears to rise with the tide – Atlantis-like – from the sea, while turtles congregate to feed on the nutrient rich run-off. Then, at Vansittart Bay, we inspect the preserved wreck of a DC-3 that crashlanded after getting lost en route to Darwin in 1942. The Kimberley is world renowned for its spectacular waterfalls and we’re treated to the dramatic flows of the King George Falls in a Zodiac cruise along the river of the same name. Those wanting to see the inaccessible Mitchell Falls can opt for a helicopter flight provided by an external operator.

We are honoured to meet the traditional custodians who have nurtured this inhospitable land when we venture ashore at Freshwater Cove (Widgingarra Butt Butt). It’s here we have the chance to purchase original artworks from the family who welcome us to this secluded cove.

We humans have come a long way as a species, but here in the Kimberley we are reminded that our timeline is but a dot on a very long scale ... and that when our flimsy bodies are returned to cosmic dust, these cliffs and escarpments will still be here.

VISIT MiNDFOOD.COM

The wildflower season in Western Australia is one of the most dazzling natural attractions in the state, drawing thousands every year. mindfood.com/wa-wildflowers

Le Jacques-Cartier is the newest in the six-vessel class, bringing the fleet to 13 vessels in total and ensuring that no nook or cranny of our knowable world goes unexplored.

While the older vessels, like the Russian oceanographic ships can be credited with paving the way for modern polar tourism, they did not pave the way with their environmental credentials. The post-pandemic world has a new appreciation for green and responsible travel and the Explorer class is in the box seat to deliver.

Le Jacques-Cartier is totally zero emission for wastewater of any kind and the fleet-wide use of Low Sulfur Marine Gas Oil means that harmful exhaust emissions are reduced by as much as 90 per cent. Other features include anchor-free positioning, thereby sparing potentially sensitive marine ecosystems.

Guests comforts include formal and informal dining in either of two restaurants and a generous ‘Open Bar’ alcohol allowance is included in most fares. Of course, there is plenty of spa pampering (at extra cost), a gym and lots of open-deck space to relax with a cocktail.

One innovation on the Explorer class is the Blue Eye underwater multi-sensory lounge designed to transport guests into a surreal world. This feature is best appreciated in the crystal-clear tropical waters rather than the Kimberley, but nevertheless, the superb digital audiovisual projections, vibrating ‘Body Listening Sofas’ and otherworldly atmosphere can still be appreciated even if the view from the underwater windows cannot.