Helplessly Seduced by the Islands of Love by Roderick Eime

Helplessly seduced by the islands of love 12 Mar 2006

NORFOLK ISLAND

CRUISING ESCAPES

AUTUMN HOLIDAY CHOICES Travel 1 March to 29 April 2006 2/12/95

PUB:

Motel Style

Apartment Style Transfers, ½ day tour, Hire Car*

STL STL

919 * $ 979 * $ 1199 From

Airport Transfers & Half Day Tour*

Cottage Style Transfers, ½ Day Tour, Pamper pack

*PP

ALL PACKAGES INCLUDE

Tw. Sh.

Return Airfares Ex Syd 7 nights Accommodation Pre-payable Taxes

From

PP Tw. Sh.

Inclusions listed

- Immed iate Con Available firmations Now!*

From

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*Special Airfare Conditions apply - new bookings only, must be booked before 31 Mar 06 & paid for within 3 days of booking.

*Conditions Apply

Norfolk & Pacific Holidays - ‘The Norfolk People’

Ph. 1800 111 653

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87654321012345678

Taking off March 29, 2006!

Helplessly seduced by the islands of love

qantas.com

By RODERICK EIME

C MY K 2 5 6

6 days, The Ghan $ Alice Springs/Adelaide from

1311 Pens/Sen fare. Adult price $1596

DEPARTS Tue. & Sun. 4/4/06 to 27/6/06

7 8

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Great Value Rail Holidays On The Legendary Ghan • Qantas Sydney to Alice Springs & Adelaide to Sydney • 2 nights Novotel Outback Alice inc. full b/fast, X/nights $55 pp • Gold Kangaroo The Ghan Alice to Adelaide, inc meals & sleepers • 2 nights Mercure Grosvenor Adelaide, extra nights $64 pp • Optional 2 day Alice, Uluru & Kata Tjuta tour, from $515 pp

6 days, The Ghan $ Darwin/Alice Springs

1637

from

Sen fare. Pen $1662 Adult price $2031 Higher cost from 1/5

DEPARTS Mon. & Sat. 3/4/06 to 26/6/06

25 50

• Qantas Sydney to Darwin & Alice Springs to Sydney • 2 nights Novotel Atrium Darwin, extra nights from $67 pp • Gold Kangaroo The Ghan Darwin to Alice, inc meals & sleepers • 2 nights Novotel Outback Alice inc. full b/fast, X/nights $55 pp • Optional 2 day Kakadu National Park Tour, from $385 pp • Optional 2 day Alice, Uluru & Kata Tjuta tour, from $515 pp

7 days, The Ghan Darwin/Adelaide

DEPARTS Mon. & Sat. 3/4/06 to 26/6/06

Fiji’s Only circle Island Tour

The Tour Inclusions:

Sen fare. Pen $2285 Adult price $2707 Higher cost from 1/5

dmin

PROD

• Qantas Sydney to Darwin & Adelaide to Sydney • 2 nights Novotel Atrium Darwin, extra nights from $67 pp • Gold Kangaroo The Ghan Darwin/Adelaide, inc meals & sleepers • 2 nights Mercure Grosvenor Adelaide, extra nights $64 pp • Optional 2 day Kakadu National Park Tour, from $385 pp

dmax

1300 78 78 58

Straight through to your closest Travellers Choice travel agent or visit www.aussieholidays.net.au Travel valid 1/4 to 30/6/06, last date of sale 25/6/06. Prices cash, per person twin share. Surcharge for credit cards. Flights based on Qantas “N” class. Airfares to be paid within 7 days of booking. Balance payable 30 days prior to travel or within 72 hours if travelling within 30 days. Pens/Sens must hold a Commonwealth Government Entitlement Card. Subject to availability and conditions apply. ABN 47 009 116 947 LIC 9TA00271

PP Tw. Sh.

- Return Airfares flying Qantas - Pre-Payable Taxes - Local Fijian guide& hostess - 6 nights accommodation - Continental fruit breakfasts, Lunches, and evening meals - Farewell dinner - Meke dinner & show night - 5 days touring in air-cond. coach - All boat transfers to Islands - Guided Tour of Levuka - Free watersports on Naigani - Entrance Fees to “The Garden of the Sleeping Giant” Pacific Cultural Centre, Morris Hedstrum Museum and Fiji Museum.

2104

Ring your local travel agent or

1839*

From

$ from

national voyage — and what a premiere. I t u r n t o N aomi, a sprightly, well-travelled, 70-something lady with whom I’ve just shared a very civil lunch of lobster, prawns and asparagus. She’s stunned, watching with mouth agape and eyes like saucers. The drums — and the dancers — reach a fever pitch, then stop as if a mighty handbrake has just been applied. To the sound of a chap in a comical shirt-and-tie combo bellowing pidgin English into a bullhorn, the men momentarily lose their determined demeanour and

step back to reveal a dozen or so exquisitely adorned young women, each of whom bears a beautiful, hand-crafted laurel of frangipani — and not a great deal else. Amid a palpable, expectant silence, they approach in unison and delicately place the fragrant laurels around each of our necks. ‘‘The Trobrianders have made seduction an art form,’’ Nancy, our resident anthropologist, reminds us. ‘‘It’s all a part of the matrilineal (female-based) society of this region.’’ Dr Nancy Sullivan is also our interpreter. Without her, we’d be more than

floundering in this complex, multi-layered ‘‘kula’’ culture that trades in chattels, food and favours. Kula is a benign, yet highly involved, game of strategy and influence that has been the basis for interisland relations in the Milne Bay region over many centuries. ‘‘This gorgeous shell jewellery,’’ Nancy announces as she picks out a girl who is probably the equivalent of a princess, ‘‘is a very clear sign of her status in the community.’’ Nancy delicately cradles and admires the weighty assembly of mother-ofpearl, spondylus and crocus

FIJI GROUP DEPARTURE ON SALE! Where each landing is a discovery: The Oceanic Princess in Papua New Guinea, above; excited children on Kiriwina, in the Trobriands, left; the exciting dancers of Kiriwina, above right; and passengers go ashore, below right

SAVE $340 per couple Two departures only Depart 16 April or 28 May 06 Email: res@norfolkpacific.com.au NORFOLK & PACIFIC HOLIDAYS Lic.1626

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QFT0184/ST. QFT0136 Qantas Airways Limited ABN 16 009 661 901.

he men, oiled, lean and exuberant, gather ominously around us on the beach. All the while, a hypnotic drum beat urges them on, each licentious beat met with an overt, unambiguous thrust of the hips. This elaborate welcome could be mistaken for many things. We’re ashore on Kiriwina, the main island of the Trobriands, a tiny group east of the tip of Papua New Guinea and fabled as ‘‘the islands of love’’. Our ship, the 76-passenger, 2000-tonne Oceanic Princess, is on her maiden inter-

1800 111 653 *Conditions Apply, Limited Availability

+ 18—THE SUNDAY TELEGRAPH, escape www.sundaytelegraph.com.au March 12, 2006—18

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CRUISING ESCAPES

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✆1300 657 578

PR OD

FACT FILE

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INCLUDES 12 nights 4-star cruising from Rome on-board the Carnival Liberty with all meals & entertainment. BONUS USD$100 Shipboard Credit. VISIT Naples, Dubrovnik, Venice, Messina, Barcelona, Cannes & Livorno. Airfare not included.

*Terms & Conditions apply. Refer to the General News Section advertisement.

15 Days from

Our entire 10-day itinerary aboard Oceanic Princess was an intoxicating exploration of these unheard-of islands rimming the steamy Solomon Sea. The Marshall Bennet Group, the enticingly named D’Entrecasteaux Group, Green Island, Dobu Island, Nissan Island and

28 days fully inclusive From $4,880 p.p, twin share

Great Value Shuttle Deals

Return air $ & 2 nights

488

Plus $78 taxes

Return air $ & 5 nights

614

Plus $78 taxes

INCLUDES • Return Virgin Blue special fare Sydney to Perth • 2 or 5 nights Aarons Hotel, right in the heart of Perth • Exclusive range of 2 for 1 discounts and other offers on day tours, river cruises and Miss Mauds famous smorgasboard breakfast Air + hotel Air+2 nite Air+5 nite X nite Aarons Hotel (1/5-30/6, std) 488 614 42 Aarons Hotel (1-30/4, std) 491 623 44 Goodearth Hotel (studio) 498 592 47 City Stay Apart Hotel (1 B/R) 515 627 56 Pacific Intl Suites (studio) 551 699 74 Miss Mauds (std inc b/fast) 558 712 77 Rendezvous Ob City (ocean) 559 715 78

Plus $78 Taxes. Other Great Perth Hotels Available

5 Day Fly/Motorhome W.A. Holiday

$542

• Return Virgin Blue special fare Sydney to Perth Plus $78 taxes • 5 days rental Britz Hi Top Campervan (1/5-30/6) • 5 day rental inc. pick up & drop off days. Extra days $55 per day Ring your local travel agent or dial straight through to your closest Travellers Choice Agent

Travellers Choice Toll free: 1300 78 78 58

Travel valid 3/4-30/6/06, last sale date 8/6/06. Prices cash per person twin share, extra for credit cards. Air is special Virgin Blue wholesale fare Sydney/Perth with seat allotments, to be paid within 24 hours. Extra $78 taxes/levies/ charges on air packages, correct at 7/3/06, subject to change. Balance payable 30 days prior to travel or within 72 hours if travelling within 30 days. Conditions such as bonds, excess waivers and stamp duty apply to motorhome rental. All subject to availability & conditions apply. ABN 47 009 116 947 LIC 9TA0071

*Prices are per person, twin share and land only. Price based on travel 01 May to 30 Sept 2006. License TTA 164 197.

For more information on this and other current offers, Contact your travel agent or Kirra.

or email: info@wendywutours.com.au www.wendywutours.com.au

WWT06.38ST

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1800 007 373 19—THE SUNDAY TELEGRAPH,

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PERTH

INCLUDES: 3 nights accommodation at the Heritage Hotel, return airport transfers, Bush & Beach adventure, Rangitoto Volcanic Explorer tour, Auckland harbour sailing & lunch. **3 nights not enough? Ask about extending your holiday!**

Call 1300 727 998

ril Tra - J vel un e 06

Prices may fluctuate due to changes in taxes & charges – correct at time of printing. Lic. No. 2TA4103

From $537* per person (3 nights)

18 days fully inclusive From $3,480 p.p, twin share

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E: hwtaus@helenwongstours.com or see your travel agent

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T: (02) 9267 7833 or 1300 788 328

AUCKLAND 3 NIGHT ESCAPE

*Airline fuel surcharge and compulsory tipping are additional

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For more details:

Helen Wong’s Tours

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New Ireland all yield tropical wonders never seen on any mundane travel brochure. Each landing is a discovery — for our hosts and ourselves. Many of these small, impossibly isolated communities rarely see ‘‘dim-dim’’ (white) folks, and judging by the looks on some of the youngsters’ faces, we’re their first. Oceanic Princess — the product of decades of knowledge gained by Tony and Vicki Briggs and their longserving skippers — is ideally suited to this task of exploration and discovery. Despite her 63m length, she is highly manoeuvrable. On one occasion, Captain John Lynch (ex-Royal Australian Navy) deftly brought her within 20m of a sandy beach. Later, he guided her up a beautiful channel that was just 12m deep. Yes, you can still get a cocktail and pull up a deckchair, but prepare yourself for inspirational experiences that transcend the term ‘‘holiday’’.

Vietnam – India – Rajasthan Vietnam Panorama Panorama 22 days fully inclusive From $4,680 p.p, twin share

• All airfares • Accommodation • Most meals • Sightseeing • Professional guides • China visa

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100% KIWI March 12, 2006—19 +

STL 12-MAR-2006 STL 12-MAR-2006 ED: 1 2 3 4 Drop

sion was sown by waves of Christian missionaries who sought to conceal these erotic spectacles with dowdy, shapeless garb and searing Sunday sermons.

plus $393 taxes

PUB:

Malinowski and Margaret Mead, both of whom immersed themselves in these complex societies. Victorian-era Malinowski saw only the male’s perspective, and berated himself severely for his lascivious thoughts. The more liberal Mead unveiled the intricate women’s culture and apparently embraced the local customs wholeheartedly. In response to the locals’ obvious focus on ‘‘simple pleasures’’, much confu-

$5955

• Shanghai • Yangtze River Cruise • Guilin • Xian • Beijing

2/12/95

shell strung together to form a magnificent, and very valuable, ceremonial piece. I’m entranced by the intricate decorations. Her flawless skin is dusted with iridescent golden pollen from yellow flowers, while around her neck are garlands of tiny, painstakingly woven flowers. Dark armbands with shell adornments match the cluster of hand-fashioned red shells cascading from her ear lobes. A similar strand encircles her subtly painted forehead, which in turn is topped with a tiara of bird feathers. Each girl is similarly bedecked, but infinitesimal differences declare her family’s ultimate status in the community. The dainty troupe turns to escort us up the short hill for the elaborate spectacle of the Yam Harvest Dance, which quenches any argument about how these serene and beautiful people earned their reputation. Students of anthropology will no doubt recall the huge works of Bronislaw

plus $258 taxes

19 Days from

Mighty Yangtze GETTING THERE: Cairnsbased Coral Princess Cruises operate the new 76-passenger expedition yacht Oceanic Princess on a range of 10- to 13-day itineraries that take in the islands of Papua New Guinea, Melanesia and New Zealand. All meals and excursions are included. PRICES: From $6950 per person twin-share. DETAILS: Coral Princess Cruises, 1800 079 545, www.coralprincess.com.au or Adventure Associates, 1800 222 141, www.adventureassociates. com/papua/

$2999

• Beijing • Xian • Suzhou • Hangzhou • Shanghai

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