34
Escape.com.au
Diving Japan
Mermaids show deep sea skills Are Japan’s living treasures, the legendary ama pearl divers, going down for the count? Roderick Eime peers into their hallowed realm SHE is the modern mermaid, the living apparition that so taunted sailors and mariners for centuries. But instead of scales and fins, her honeytanned skin is barely concealed by a saturated white cotton wrap, as sheer as transparent silk in the clear summer water. Her delicate face, disguised with an antique diving mask, is the first to go under, followed by a perfectly round bottom and then her feet, pointing skyward like a Bolshoi ballerina’s en pointe. I’m watching this scene, not as I should, from the shore off Japan’s Toba City, but on a hazy television screen. A scratchy, 40-year-old documentary is screening in the little museum dedicated to the ama (or amasan, sea women), its walls decorated with nawa (rope), oke (shallow wooden tubs) and tegane (metal tools) for detaching awabi (shellfish). Toba is one of the few remaining locations around the Japanese coastline where the ama work regularly, fishing in the traditional freediving method for abalone, clams, crustaceans and seaweed. The idyllic scene has transfixed me, much as the first Western sailors must have been hundreds of years ago when they first caught sight of these athletic, uninhibited women diving in and out of the sea as if they were born to it.
Actually they were. The ama begin diving in their mid-teens and continue well into their 40s and 50s, often with their daughters by their side. In 1954, when the young women were still entering this arduous yet honourable tradition, noted Japanese scholar and ethnographer Professor Kunio Yanagita documented 24 sites around Honshu, Shikoku and Kyushu where the ama still practised their traditional skills. But rather than as a field study for academia, it was popular culture and modern mythology where the ama flourished. From the subtly erotic woodblock prints of 18th-century master Utamaro Kitagawa to the voyeuristic ‘‘documentaries’’ and B-movies of the 1950s and ’60s, the romanticised ama became the pin-up girls of their time. Sassy, tanned, confident and trim, they monopolised the imagination of filmmakers, novelists and storytellers. James Bond fell for one, Kissy Suzuki, in You Only Live Twice, while celebrated novelist Yukio Mishima penned Shiosai (The Sound of Waves), a classic romantic love story filmed no fewer than five times since it was published in 1956. But enough of this nostalgia and daydreaming – it’s time to meet some real ama. The little hut, barely more than a picnic shelter, is perched against the sea wall. Reiko and Tazue are waiting to welcome us, the fire already raging and the teapot steaming. Laid out before us is a selection of fresh shellfish. Reiko approaches and bows courteously in the age-old Japanese fashion. We reciprocate and are ushered inside with broad smiles and sweeping arms. Both girls are dressed in traditional apres dive attire, with trademark headwear, cotton tunic and skirt. I’m notoriously bad at guessing ages, but Reiko quickly volunteers: she’s 77 and Tazue is a spritely 74. Yes, both are still diving. Our ama experience in the little
shack is warm and convivial and a popular tourist stop. We are fed clutches of shellfish straight from the fire, juice still bubbling inside the shells. Clams and abalone are delicious, while the turban shells are definitely an acquired taste. Tough and smoky, they take a bit of work but Reiko is delighted when I accept a second. ‘‘The big abalone are the real prize,’’ Reiko tells me, ‘‘they earn us the best money.’’ Women divers can earn more than a million yen ($A12,000) in a threemonth season, so it has traditionally
been an attractive vocation for women who would otherwise be working in fields or factories. But today’s youngsters are not following their mothers. ‘‘My daughter doesn’t like the cold,’’ laments Reiko, who will be the last ama in four generations of her family. After a bellyfull of mixed crustaceans, we visit another hut, just in time to sit with the girls after a morning in the surf plucking molluscs. Wrapped in fleecy tops and trousers, they are typically cheerful but clearly glad to be in front of the fire as the
diving season draws to a close. The interior is authentic ama, with marine knick-knacks and modest personal effects arranged randomly about the floor and walls. There’s a little shrine on a shelf where they pray each morning for a safe and bountiful dive. Ama face numerous hazards as part of their work, such as bites from unfriendly creatures, underwater entanglement and snags. Curiously, traditional diving dangers such as the bends, hypothermia and ear damage don’t feature on their list. Women apparently have a greater tolerance to cold thanks to evenly distributed body
ROYAL TASMAN
TASMANIA
PREMIER ESCORTED TOURING GOURMET DISCOVERIES
UNIQUE & ICONIC ACCOMMODATION
CALL 1300 290 942
SIGNATURE EXPERIENCES
Includes: Explore Freycinet National Park • Tour Port Arthur Historic Site • Enjoy bustling Salamanca Market • Admire Russell Falls • Cruise the mighty Gordon River •Discover World Heritage-listed Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park • Visit Woolmers Estate and the National Rose Garden • Freedom of Choice Touring at no extra cost • Sample cheese at Ashgrove Cheese Factory • Ride the West Coast Wilderness Railway • APT Highlight! Stay at Freycinet Lodge and Cradle Mountain Lodge •Harbour View rooms at the Hotel Grand Chancellor, Hobart • 21 meals including an exclusive crayfish feast in Port Arthur
www.aptouring.com.au or see your local travel agent
SAVE $1050* per couple 12 DAYS ALL-INCLUSIVE FROM $3820* per person, twin share.
THE NUT & STANLEY
ASK ABOUT OUR SOLO TRAVELLER OFFER
SMITHTON 1 DEVONPORT LAVENDER FARM ST HELENS 3 SHEFFIELD LAUNCESTON CRADLE MOUNTAIN 1 STRAHAN 2 1 FREYCINET QUEENSTOWN NATIONAL 2 RUSSELL FALLS PARK HOBART 1 RT12 PORT ARTHUR
A departure from the ordinary
*Conditions apply. Prices are correct as at 31 Jan. 2011 but may fluctuate due to changes in surcharges, fees & taxes. Offers are not combinable, available on new bookings only and subject to availability. A surcharge may apply to payments made with credit card. Book by 28 Feb. 2011. Available on RT12 tours departing Feb. – May 2011. $200 deposit due within 7 days. Balance due six weeks prior to departure. Offer strictly subject to availability and until sold out. Australian Pacific Touring Pty Ltd ABN 44 004 684 619 Lic. No. 30112 MKT8727_ST
Escape.com.au
“AUSTR ALIA ON SALE�
35
PRICE PER PERSON
PACKAGE
4 NIGHT WILD DOLPHIN ADVENTURE, QLD
FROM
TRAVEL DATES 30 Jan – 15 Apr & 27 Apr – 31 May 11
$375*
INCLUDES NIGHTS AT 4ANGALOOMA )SLAND 2ESORT s 2ETURN LAUNCH TRANSFERS FROM "RISBANE s "REAKFAST DAILY s $OLPHIN FEEDING ON ONE NIGHT
3 NIGHT MELBOURNE EXPLORER, VIC
FROM
&EB n -AR 28 Mar – 31 May 11
$455*
INCLUDES NIGHTS AT 0ARK 2EGIS 'RIFl N 3UITES s "REAKFAST DAILY s 'REAT /CEAN 2OAD !DVENTURE s 2ETURN TRANSFERS
4 NIGHT MARGARET RIVER GETAWAY, WA
FROM
$469*
30 Jan – 31 Mar, 10 – 21 Apr & 27 Apr – 31 May 11
INCLUDES NIGHT AT 2ENDEZVOUS (OTEL 0ERTH s NIGHTS AT 3EASHELLS 9ALLINGUP + s 'UIDED ,IGHTHOUSE TOUR s .GILGI #AVE 3EMIn'UIDED 3HOW #AVE TOUR s $AYS !VIS #AR (IRE~
4 NIGHT TASMANIA EXPERIENCE
FROM
$475*
30 Jan – 29 Mar, 10 – 30 Apr, n -AY -AY n *UN
INCLUDES NIGHTS AT #OUNTRY #LUB 4ASMANIA s NIGHT AT #RADLE -OUNTAIN #HATEAU s DAYS !VIS CAR HIRE~ s 0LUS MORE
3 NIGHT SYDNEY ESCAPE, NSW
FROM
$525*
*AN n *UN
INCLUDES NIGHTS ABOARD #APTAIN #OOK #RUISES n 3YDNEY 7EEKENDER INCLUDING ALL MEALS s 2ETURN 3YDNEY !IRPORT TRANSFERS BONUS )NCLUDES &2%% NIGHT AT THE (OLIDAY )NN $ARLING (ARBOUR
3 NIGHT RED CENTRE ADVENTURE, NT
FROM
$539*
*AN n *UN
INCLUDES NIGHTS AT 6OYAGES 4HE ,OST #AMEL s !FTERNOON 5LURU "ASE AND 3UNSET $RINKS TOUR s 2ETURN !YERS 2OCK !IRPORT TRANSFERS BONUS 5LURU !USSIE "ARBECUE $INNER
3 NIGHT GREAT BARRIER REEF GETAWAY, QLD
FROM
$599*
*AN n *UN
INCLUDES NIGHTS ON (ERON )SLAND s "REAKFAST LUNCH AND DINNER DAILY BONUS )NCLUDES &2%% RETURN TRANSFERS FROM 'LADSTONE -ARINA s RESORT CREDIT s 2OOM UPGRADE
6 NIGHT GOLD COAST ADVENTURE, QLD
FROM
30 Jan – 15 Apr, 27 Apr – 31 May 11
$629*
INCLUDES NIGHTS AT 7YNDHAM 3URFERS 0ARADISE 2ESORT s 3UMMER 7ORLD 0ASS INCLUDING UNLIMITED ENTRY TO $REAMWORLD AND 7HITE7ATER 7ORLD s DAYS !VIS CAR HIRE~ BONUS )NCLUDES &2%% NIGHTS ALL AGLOW: Amasan (female divers) warm up after a morning’s work.
fat and generally make better divers. The true glamour divers, the prima donnas of the deep, are the pearl divers. Since the advent of cultured pearls, diving is almost a lost art. Almost, because at the Mikimoto Pearl Museum in Toba, there are daily diving displays for visitors. The girls are dressed in the white cotton smock that is the ama uniform and plunge for shells while we crane to see what’s going on. They disappear for a tantalising minute and re-emerge to the tune of an isobue (whistle), clutching a trophy shell, gleefully displaying it to the gathered onlookers. I can’t help thinking an underwater window would really complete the picture. Inside the museum is a mouth-watering display of an entirely different kind. Bring your credit card. Sadly the era of the ama is rapidly drawing to a close. The average age of today’s diver is well over 50, and the alluring fundoshi (tied bikini bottom) and sheer blouse have given way to the more practical long-sleeve wetsuit and scuba mask. The ladies still dive without breathing apparatus and command premium prices for their hand-picked produce, but for how much longer? I lament that, apart from the choreographed demonstration at Mr Mikimoto’s giftshop, there are only museums and ad hoc visits to see the few remaining genuine ama in action. It needs some enterprising operator to deliver today’s experiential traveller a truly immersive experience – pun intended. For now, it’s left to Reiko and Tazue to channel past ama and to look into their soft eyes is to see a hundred years of life under the waves mixed with the knowledge that their tide is going out forever. The writer was a guest of the Japan National Tourism Organisation.
Go2
5 NIGHT BROOME ADVENTURE, WA
FROM
$655*
&EB n -AR
INCLUDES NIGHTS AT /AKS "ROOME s (ALF DAY 7ILLIE #REEK 0EARL &ARM TOUR s "ROOME 4OWN 4OUR WITH #AMEL 2IDE
$699*
*AN n &EB &EB n -AR 5 Mar – 13 May, 15 – 31 May 11
JAPAN
5 NIGHT TROPICAL REEF ENCOUNTER, QLD
Getting there
INCLUDES NIGHTS AT 3EA 4EMPLE 2ESORT 3PA 0ALM #OVE s 2ESORT VOUCHER s 'REAT "ARRIER 2EEF $AY #RUISE FROM #AIRNS s $INNER #RUISE ON ONE EVENING FROM #AIRNS s DAYS !VIS CAR HIRE~ BONUS )NCLUDES &2%% NIGHT
Toba City is in the Ise-Shima region of Mie Prefecture, south of Nagoya and about 90 minutes by express train service. Japan Airlines has daily direct flights from Sydney to Tokyo’s Narita International Airport with same-day connections to Nagoya and Osaka. See www.au.jal.com or ph 1300 525 287.
Doing there Toba Sea Folk Museum and Ama Culture Museum, Mikimoto Pearl Island, Toba Acquarium, Ise Jingu holy site. See www.toba.or.jp/english
6 NIGHT TROPICAL CAIRNS EXPERIENCE, QLD
FROM
FROM
$755*
&EB n -AY
INCLUDES NIGHTS AT 3HANGRIn,A (OTEL 4HE -ARINA #AIRNS s "REAKFAST DAILY s &ULL DAY 'REAT "ARRIER 2EEF #RUISE s 2AINFORESTATION .ATURE %XPERIENCE INCLUDING 3KYRAIL s 2ETURN TRANSFERS BONUS )NCLUDES &2%% NIGHTS
5 NIGHT ADELAIDE & MURRAY RIVER EXPLORER, SA
FROM
$845*
30 Jan – 16 Mar, 21 Mar – 31 May 11
INCLUDES NIGHT CRUISE ABOARD THE 03 -URRAY 0RINCESS WITH #APTAIN #OOK #RUISES INCLUDING ALL MEALS DAILY s &ULL DAY "AROSSA 6ALLEY 3UPREME TOUR s 2ETURN TRANSFERS BONUS )NCLUDES &2%% NIGHTS AT THE -ERCURE 'ROSVENOR !DELAIDE
6 NIGHT GOLD COAST FAMILY GETAWAY, QLD
FROM
$865*
30 Jan – 21 Apr, !PR n *UN
INCLUDES NIGHTS AT 4HE 4OWERS OF #HEVRON 2ENAISSANCE s 6)0 4HEME 0ARK PASS INCLUDING UNLIMITED ENTRY TO -OVIE 7ORLD 3EA 7ORLD AND 7ET N 7ILD s $AY 3UNLOVER (OLIDAYS &REE %ASY 4RANSFER 0ASS s +IDS 3TAY 0LAY &2%% #
2 NIGHT WHITSUNDAY ISLAND GETAWAY, QLD
FROM
$879*
30 Jan – 31 May 11
INCLUDES NIGHTS AT (AYMAN s "REAKFAST DAILY s 2ETURN TRANSFERS FROM (AMILTON )SLAND BONUS 2OOM UPGRADE !LL PRICES ARE PER PERSON TWIN SHARE 6ALID FOR SALE TO &EB UNLESS SOLD OUT PRIOR
Ama Hut Experience. See www.amakoya.com
%NJOY m EXIBILITY AND CONVENIENCE ON YOUR HOLIDAY BY BOOKING !VIS CAR HIRE AND RECEIVE A BONUS DOUBLE UPGRADE! FROM $54**0%2 $!9
Ask THE TRAVEL PROFESSIONALS 132 757 Call harveyworld.com.au QUOTE 5554 WHEN BOOKING : *AGENTS MAY CHARGE SERVICE FEES AND/OR FEES FOR CARD PAYMENTS WHICH VARY. Conditions and seasonal surcharges apply. Prices are per person t win share and subjec t to availabilit y. Air fares not included. Valid for sale to 12 Feb 2011. Valid for travel as stated above. Resor t vouchers are per room, must be utilised during stay and cannot be redeemed for cash. Room upgrades are subjec t to availabilit y unless other wise stated. # Play free is based on theme park tickets for children 4 –13 years inclusive. + Not valid on Saturday nights. **Avis Bonus Double Upgrade price is per vehicle per day based on a minimum 3 day hire of Car Group X vehicle picking up from cit y depot. Valid for travel to 31 May 11. Avis standard age, credit & driver requirements apply. Subjec t to the terms & conditions of the Avis Rental agreement at time of rental. ~ Car hire included in packages is based on Group B picking up from airpor t. BROOME : For travel 1 Apr – 31 May 11 price is $755 per person. Prices & information are correc t at time of issue and subjec t to availabilit y and change at time of booking. Prices may fluc tuate due to changes in charges, taxes and currenc y. Prices do not include taxes or charges collec ted direc tly by third par ties.Ž Registered trade mark of Har vey World Travel Group P t y Limited. ^MEMBERSHIP REWARDS : Only available to Cardmembers enrolled in Membership Rewards A scent Premium, A scent, Choices or Blue Sky. Membership Rewards enrolment required (an annual fee may apply). Subjec t to the Terms and Conditions of the Membership Rewards program. American E xpress International, Inc. (ABN 15 000 618 208). Incorporated with limited liabilit y in Delaware, USA . Only available at par ticipating Har vey World Travel shops. Each Har vey World Travel shop has its own travel agent ’s licence number. Licence No. NSW 2TA002558, AC T 18800658, QLD TAG252, VIC 30204, WA 9TA 284, SA T TA108. HW T01303_NSW_ST_WK 2