Rollacoaster Issue 01 by Rollacoaster Magazine

)

E E FR ISSU

E 01

2010 P E S (

Photographer Kenneth Cappello. Pharrell wears billionaire boys club shorts and ice cream top. All from selfridges

IT’S PHARRELL

FASHION, FREEBIES, FUN, FROLICS, TUNES, TELLY & TREATS

www.johngalliano.com

Lindsey & Ash

ROLLACOASTER 10

CONTENTS

FROM

THE

EDITOR....

18. Hot N Soapy: Eastender’s Zsa Zsa Carter is given a make over 20. Rollacoaster rounds up three Misfits to discuss behind the scenes antics 22. Rollacoaster goes On Holiday With Johnny Woo and we ask Giles Deacon to customise some jeans 24. Tinie Tempah is the first celebrity to dip his hand into our biscuit tin 26. S/S Preview - some of the new designs coming to the catwalks this

London Fashion Week 28. Designer David Koma gives us a serious talking to 30. Small talking with James Small 32. Richard Nicoll chats about his fashion label 34. Word from New York designer Donna Karen 38. Pierre Hardy minds ‘The Gap’ and some new cinema releases 40. New ways to wear Double Denim 44. People’s Pet’s - meet hairdresser James Brown's bitch, Jackie Collins 46. Round Table - a chat with the TopMan MAN designers

48. Pharrell Williams - James McMahon meets the N*E*R*D front man 54. we have a chat with Swedish pop star Robyn 56. A Miu Miu here... - a look at the new collection from Miu Miu 60. Kevin Carrigan - Rollacoaster meets the man behind CK 64. OMG It’s JLS - we go shopping in Selfridges with the UK’s favourite

Enjoy the ride with Rollacoaster, the first fashion, style, celebrity and music magazine that has been specifically designed to add entertainment to your shopping trip. The idea for ‘OMG it’s JLS!’ came up during one of Rollacoaster's initial editorial meetings: they are the biggest boy band in the UK and we thought it would be fun to run a shopping trip with them. That decision pretty much set the scene for the magazine: relevant and informative, with content to make you laugh out loud. We never neglect the LOLS. If it were not for our dislike of repetition we'd have made the heading for Pharrell Williams, our cover and centre-fold star, ‘OMG it’s Pharrell!’ Not that the musician/producer/designer needs an introduction. We also feature Tinie Tempah and Robyn, who we listened to on our office Boombox as Rollacoaster was put together, along with JLS and N.E.R.D. An excuse to holiday with friends brings you: On holiday with Jonny Woo. ‘On holiday with.’ will be a regular fixture, so we're keen to hear any suggestions for issue two. I'll travel pretty much anywhere. Also, please forward names of any known pets that are capable of speaking as eloquently as James Brown’s hound Jackie Collins, we’d love to hear what they have to say. Woof. The fashion previews, stories and specials will keep you informed, while the shoots will keep you inspired; some of the finest designers and labels are included in these pages. Hopefully you’ll enjoy it as much as we have. We can confidently declare that it's the best issue yet. Becky Davies

boy band 68. Alpine Piste - wrap up in D&G for Winter 72. Sporty But Nice - look good when working out a sweat

76. Inside Out - Sometimes the inside of clothes is as exciting as the out 80. Smackin’ - return of the M.A.C 82. Reiss’ Pieces - new range from Reiss 86. Leving Legends - Levi’s in the desert 90. Prints Harry - prints on clothes look royally good 94. Oi Ralph! - Ralph Lauren makes great things 98. Grumpy Git - John Davidson has a rant 98. Megafan - we meet a huge fan of HBO’s True Blood

A FEW NEW ALBUMS TO LOVE... NeYo Libra Scale (Mercury Records) 04.10.10 Part pulsating RnB, part gay disco, fully brilliant Chromeo Business Casual (Back Yard Recordings) 20.09.2010 The musical duo’s third album hits the right notes Tinie Tempah Disc-Overy (Parlophone) 04.10.2010 Genre bending music genius Fenech-Soler Fenech-Soler (B*Unique) 27.09.2010 Self titled debut album of danceable tracks

ROLLACOASTER 14

Editorial Director & Publisher Huw Gwyther

YOU MAY THINK THAT WORKING ON A MAGAZINE WE GET LOTS OF FREEBIES, BUT WE DON'T : - ( ANY ROAD, EVER THE OPTIMISTS, DEAR.... PLEASE CAN WE HAVE:

he is always on time, but to ensure it stays like this would like the new TAG Heuer watch

Assistant To Editorial Director & Publisher Charlotte Harrison now winter is approaching would like a spray tan from St. Tropez

Editor Becky Davies the glammest bag lady you’ll ever meet is desperate for ALL of this season's Mulberry

Creative Director Way Perry

renowned for his bootie—these Dunhill boots are at the top of his list

Art Director Felix Neill

loves getting snuggly and would do almost anything to be given the Prada knit he’s modelling

Contributing Editor David Hayes wants the Comme des Garçons backpack in primary colours, very him, very Early Learning Centre

Sub Editor Donna Mizzi

is spreading the love, as usual, and would cherish a bottle of Dior's new scent ‘J’Adore L’Or’

Entertainment Editor Seamus Duff

is preparing for a Scottish winter—what better than a Moncler coat to warm his cockles?

Senior Fashion Editor Julia Sarr-Jamois

fluffy Julia likes fluffy things, this Miu Miu bag completments her ’fro

Senior Fashion Editor At Large Anthony Unwin

is checking it doesn't come in a clutch, but if not this wooly Lanvin bag please...

Contributing Fashion Editor Abigail Sutton

these Tom Ford shades would have come in handy on Abi's holiday

Fashion Editor Matilda Goad

Tilly looks bonnie in this Moschino Cheap & Chic bonnet

Beauty & Grooming Editor Lee Wallick

naughty Lee needs a fittingly cheeky fragrance, how aboutVivienneWestwood’s ‘Naughty Alice?’

Design Assistant Emily Barnes is in dire need of some relaxation, preferably with the entire Origins Beauty range

Fashion Assistants Alex Harley, Gary Salter, Armando Palha are hankering the new Dior Homme fragrance, we smell nice, but want to smell better

Assistant Beauty Editor Elizabeth Peng

is in need of some love, Chloe Love fragrance to be exact...

Advertising Director Stuart Jackson (+44) 207 423 9971 is on the hunt for a fine pair of Hunter wellies for winter - not armed, honest!

Italian Representative Kmedia Srl Paolo Cassano paolocassano@kmedianet.com | (+39) 02 29061094 Spanish Representative Kmedia Spain davidcastello@kmedianetes | (+34) 91 702 3484

Contributors Kate Bellm, Brendan and Brendan, Will Broome, Simon Chilvers, Lauren Cochrane, John Davidson, Thomas Giddings, Alistair Guy, Nik Hartley, Toby Knott, Benjamin Lee, Ben McDade, James McMahon, Mark McMahon, James Mountford, John-Paul Pietrus, Ben Rayner, Roger Rich, Tim Richmond, Alex Sainsbury, Alistair Strong, Kristin Vicari, Andrew Woffinden A special thanks to Annoushka Giltsoff from A Number Of Names and the team at Casio for the lovely cameras that we used on our soonto-be-launched blog! Interns Alex Unwin, Cecily Bear, Charlie Ransom Mccarrick, Francesca Prudente RollacOaster Magazine info@rollacoaster.tv 133 Notting Hill Gate, London, W11 3LB Tel (+44) 207 243 9966 Fax (+44) 207 243 9967 Rollacoaster Is Published By Visual Talent Ltd Managing Director Huw Gwyther Sales Director Stuart Jackson Financial Director Nigel Thomas Colour Reproduction Ph Media With Thanks To Ralph Wills Print managed by Logical Connections Printing Polestar Printed In The United Kingdom Reproduction of any part of this publication is strictly prohibited without prior permission from the publishers, including all logos, titles, and graphic elements All Rights Reserved Copyright 2010 By Visual Talent Ltd www.rollacoaster.tv iPad/iPod app available from www.OtherEdition.com

Sherling Aviator jacket £2195 and Lace pencil skirt £695 both by Burberry Prorsum, Body by Wolford £95. Words Seamus Duff. Photographer Andrew Woffinden, Fashion Editor Julia Sarr-Jamois, Hair Ben Jones using Bumble & Bumble, Make-up Clare Read at CAREN using Laura MerCier

HOT 'N'SOAPY

HOT'N'SOA PY

Name: Emer Kenny Character: Zsa Zsa Carter Soap: EastEnders Date of birth: 10.10.1989 Height: 5ft10in Favourite food: Peanut butter on toast Favourite musician: Nicki Minaj/Drake Karaoke song: It’s Tricky By Run DMC

W I T H

ZSA

EastEnders star and scriptwriter Emer Kenny,

ZSA

CA RT E R

Famous for playing hardedged Zsa Zsa Carter in exposes her softer side, her hopes to follow strong EastEnders, actress Emer leading actresses and some surprising dream jobs Kenny is as far removed from her tough on-screen counterpart as you could expect when we meet her in the flesh at the BBC Elstree studios for our Rollacoaster shoot. A children’s TV show is being filmed on a neighbouring lot and kids run up to the soap actress looking at her in awe asking if she is, indeed, Zsa Zsa. Kenny herself humbly smiles and talks to the kids who run around in excitement. “I’m a lot softer than Zsa Zsa,” she tells us. “When she first came in she was very hard and really rude but as I played her I think she has softened up – which is good because playing that hard character all the time is actually quite wearing.” The character Zsa Zsa is one Emer knows better than anyone – not just because she has been playing her almost daily on EastEnders since January, but because she also wrote the character as one of the script writers for E20 (the online EastEnders spin-off) before

casting for the part even began. With Zsa Zsa departing Albert Square in November, Emer is looking forward to getting into new projects and hopes to find new headstrong characters to play. “I like strong independent women,” she says, citing Hollywood’s leading ladies Sigourney Weaver, Helena Bonham Carter and Charlize Theron as inspiration. “Ripley in Alien – that’s a character that could have been a man, but it was better that she was a woman. And I like Sigourney because she’s really tall. And I’m tall. It’s one of those things I can’t change but maybe one day it will be an asset. Ripley – she’s statuesque, she’s Amazonian.” Indeed one of Emer’s “dream” characters to play is none other than Amazonian warrior princess Wonderwoman. “I’m not kidding you!” she says with a snort of excitement. “Or Catherine Earnshaw from Wuthering Heights.” Having told us she can do a great rendition of Run DMC’s It’s Tricky, is being a rapper another avenue Emer could explore if acting doesn’t work out? “I’m not going to be a rapper, no!” she laughs. That’s like my secret dream that no one is meant to know about – but now you do.”

REBEL REBEL

MIS F I TS

A British superhero comedy-drama has won

Corsets, cockneys, crime and Caroline Quentin: British telefaithful fans and a Bafta. BENJAMIN LEE feels vision isn’t exactly known for the power when he meets three of the Misfits breaking the mould. So when a show like Misfits blasts onto the scene, a comedy/drama/ sci-fi hybrid about teens with Asbos and superpowers, faith in the medium and in the country is well and truly restored. November sees the much-anticipated second E4 series kick off and hopefully become The Dark Knight to series one’s Batman Begins. Spending some time away from their gritty south London set, for a somewhat more glamorous day “up north [London]” to be styled and adorned with designer clothes, three Misfits sit down to tell us how their whirlwind first year has gone.

Misfits has been referred to as Skins meets Heroes. Do you think this is an accurate description or just some lazy journalism talk? Robbie Sheehan (main image): I think it’s the most natural thing people do: try and categorise or compromise the image of a new show by using past shows, but I don’t think it’s like either of them in its tone and so on. Nathan Stewart-Jarrett (bottom, left): I suppose it is a pretty lazy label but you always have to have something you know to sell a show. Misfits has its own style. Antonia Thomas (bottom, right): Skins is quite glamorous with the parties and the characters having lots of fun; Misfits is really not like that. The teenagers in Skins are quite cool and in Misfits it’s about being awkward. It has a lot in common with The Breakfast Club with the characters all being in trouble and forced to spend time together. They’re all also defined types. What ‘type’ were you most like in school? A: I didn’t really stick to one group. I wouldn’t say I was in a stereotypically cool group, I just had friends here and there and hung out with whoever. I had a good time at school really. N: I was the nerd! I had glasses and braces until I was 16. I had my own sense of style and I read the whole time. I had good friends and still do, but I was definitely against the current. R: Up until the age of about 14 I played football for my town, so I guess I’d be classed as the sporty type. I then quickly realised that I was too small for the next team, as everyone else had grown about a foot taller than me, so I got into the acting. You must get sick of answering some questions, like if you had a superpower, what would it be? N: It’s a valid question! You can ask it and I won’t frown. R: That one has come up several times. My approach tends to be to make stuff up. I like to spread horrendous rumours about the rest of the cast. A: Well it’s quite funny because it’s always the same answer and when we have group interviews, there’s always one power that we all want to say and it’s like who can say it first so the others have to say something else. I’d love to be a shape-shifter, I reckon. Since the first series was so popular, do you ever worry that the new one might disappoint and let down the fans?

N: Well, isn’t that always the pressure that you should never really think about? The scripts are amazing and you work really hard and everyone is on board. If you start thinking about that stuff then it can get really dangerous. R: It inevitably creeps into your mind. Having read the first six scripts, there’s very little to worry about. In the second series, we’re all very relaxed and more secure with the characters. It’s far more outrageous. A: It’s always a worry; but I think Howard [Overman] has written an absolute cracker this series. The twists and turns that come with it are really exciting. It must help that you have some celebrity fans though, right? Like Charlie Brooker? R: Yeah, he’s a comedian isn’t he? N: I find him really scary. What if he goes off you? I read stuff and I think I would not want to be in the way of that. He’s great and he’s usually quite right; but he doesn’t hold back in any way. A: I haven’t really been to many events with lots of famous people. Just the Baftas, and Jonathan Ross, and obviously that was amazing but I think the general response from people in the industry has been really cool. Do you think that winning the Bafta gave the show more respect from people that might have dismissed it? A: Hopefully. I mean it was a complete surprise. We went along, totally not expecting it. N: I was in awe. I had to pick my jaw off the floor for the whole evening. That was the most surreal night you could ever imagine. When they said Misfits had won – I almost died. R: It’s opened it up to a massive audience of people who I think may have written the show off, when it first got marketed on TV, as another teen-movie drama. I can tell you, we got through plenty of champagne that night. Now whenever you ask someone who works with an ensemble cast in a TV show, you always hear how they are all ‘like a family’ and never fall out. Is this true or are there times when you genuinely want to kill each other? A: I’m not just saying it; but we have been so lucky with our group in that we do get on really well. N: Well, families argue. I mean we’re all different people, very different. You have occasional moments where you’re like “Aggghh”, but you get over it. R: They’re all like family! Do you know what your plan is after you finish filming? R: Straight afterwards I’ll probably go back to Ireland and see my dear, loving family – who probably think I’ve abandoned them forever. A: I would love to go on holiday. I’ve got a couple of potential things in the pipeline, but not finalised yet. N: I also need a holiday. For work, I really want to do a play and an independent film. Photographer Ben McDade, Fashion Editor MatILda Goad Robbie wears navy parka with fur trim by John Galliano £2091 and navy T-shirt by Reiss £19. Nathan wears navy jumper by 1971 Reiss £129. Antonia wears leather jacket by Dsquared2 £1160, ribbed jumper by LOVE Moschino £185. Hair Chris Sweeneyat DWM using Shu Uemera The Art of Hair, Make up Caroline Shuttleworth using Laura Mercier, Fashion Assistance Charlie Ransom-McCarrick, Photographic Assistance David Lau, Location BIG SKY STUDIOS.

JONNY & GILES 22

H O L I DAY

W I T H

J O N N Y

Where: New York, Manhatentertainer PREFERS TO Climb into tan. Dan and Liam’s wedding, of course. swimming Pools, ClubS and A Cake Also, relaxing chez Dazza for four days with cultural breaks at the New Museum, Broadway and seeing Ms Joan Rivers; before three days on Fire Island Who Else: The wedding kids. Also I enjoyed meeting old performer pals Lavinia Co-op (legendary Eighties performer) and Brandon Olson (NYC club art star). I Wore: A vintage blue Eighties, pinstripe three-piece; before jumping out cake à la Kylie Minogue. To Vandame (club kid club) I wore Alex Noble Batik Bat Wings. On Fire Island I wore a Giles Deacon bespoke kaftan. High Point: Sunset over the bay of Fire Island, as somewhere over the rainbow played. Low Point: "Shoot The Freak" (shooting a paintball at a human target) on Coney Island... low, in a good way! WHEN OFF-DUTY,

GILES

the TRANSVESTITE

W oz

' E R E

NEW LOOK SENT GILES DEACON A PAIR OF JEANS TO CUSTOMISE AND THIS IS WHAT CAME BACK... LOVE the bronze charm. What is it and where did you get it? The little “Eeek” mouse is an icon that pops up everywhere in my designs and collections. This one is made out of metal. You'll find it used as a zip puller in the new collection. Is the spider fabric off-cuts from one of your collections? Yes, I designed for the spring/summer 2010 collection. How did you achieve the distressing? By using blades and scalpels and a chainsaw to ruche and distress the denim. FOR A CHANCETOWINTHESE SHORTS, EMAIL A JOKE TO INFO@ROLLACOASTER.TV

WO O Soundtrack: All The Lovers by Kylie Minogue; La Roux’s Bullet Proof; Joy Ride by Roxette; and some of the Disco tunes that Lina played at Sip ’N’ Twirl, including, If You Could Read My Mind. Catch phrase: "On holiday with Jonny Woo", or "Get back in the cake". Ate: Oysters, calamari, mussels and steamers at Jumpin’ Jacks, some tasty sausage at the barbecue, and eggs over easy in Manhattan. Drank: Fire Islands at Jumpin’ Jacks. Margaritas, the occasional Martini and Champagne in Connecticut at the boy’s wedding. Fave evening: The wedding was fun. Holiday buys: Pink T-shirt from Pat Fields’s Keith Haring range, a fish handbag and a giant disco ball necklace thingy. Postcard read: “Jonny asked me to write the card because he is too chilled to put pen to paper. Anyway... weather is delicious as is his new pal Becky. Seeing NYC from a whole new perspective...just relax baby. Wish you were all here on holiday with Jonny Woo...

L AVA Z Z A . T H E O F F I C I A L C O F F E E T O L O N D O N FA S H I O N W E E K .

call 0800 599 9200 www.lavazzamodomio.com

THE BISCUIT TIN 24

TINIE

TE M PA H The concept is simple. After searching around the Rollacoaster office, we found a generously sized biscuit tin and filled it with an array of thought-provoking questions. Each issue, we will find a different personality and ask them to pick out 10 of the questions, to which they must provide accurate and honest answers Who will rise to this monstrous challenge? First up it’s Tinie Tempah. The London rapper exploded onto the UK music scene earlier this year scoring a number one with Pass– out, and narrowly missed the top spot again with his follow-up track, Frisky. (Combined, the singles have sold in excess of 750,000 copies so far.) He has grabbed the attention of world-renowned artists (Kelly Rowland and Swedish House Mafia feature on the album), supported Jay-Z on tour and shared a stage with Snoop Dogg at Glastonbury. Tinie Tempah may have the confidence to set the music world ablaze, but does he have what it takes to answer our cleverly drafted and potentially insightful questions? Without hesitation, he delves his hand into the pot and pulls out a folded piece of paper and unrolls it to reveal the first of our biscuit-tin questions: What is your favourite smell? When a lady walks past that’s the best smell. That was one of my lyrics on Freestyle, “Nothing smells better than a lady’s scent”. A clean hygienic lady with some perfume on and hair spray and good moisturising cream – there’s no better smell. I love the smell of petrol as well, but that’s quite dangerous. Don’t sniff petrol! What is your weakness? A pretty face, I’m not going to lie. I’m quite big on features – nice prominent features. And if I meet a girl who is gorgeous I’m a sucker. I’m very confident with women, but sometimes when I meet a girl with a nice face… it doesn’t all go out the window, but she can probably tell that I’m getting a little bit weak at the knees. What is your workout routine? Performing! I don’t really have time, of recent, for the gym. So my workout routine is a good half an hour on stage, fully energetic – it’s a very good workout! Savoury or sweet snacks? Sweet – all the way. When did you last cry? I’ll be honest – I went home to my Mum’s house about a month and a half ago. She was acting kind of weird so I was like, ‘What’s wrong?’ And she started crying; and she said her mum was really ill and, because she was uncontrollably crying, I started crying. I am a bit of a Mummy’s boy. But she is all right - and my Nan is all right. Have you ever been star-struck? Well, I was pretty star-struck by Snoop Dogg. He’s a legend. He’s a fucking legend, if you don’t mind me saying. And with Jay-Z I was pretty star-struck too. I supported him on tour with Mr Hudson, and he was just

We approached the rapper to take on Rollacoaster’s Tin-Filled challenge, but do his answers take the hobnob?

backstage chilling and walked past me, so I introduced myself to him. He looked at my eyes and said ‘My man!’ and I was like: ‘That’s Jay-Z!’ But probably the person I’ve been most star-struck by was Prince William. When I performed at Radio One’s Big Weekend he came to watch my set. When I was walking off-stage, just before the encore, my manager goes ‘Prince William is here!’ I was like, ‘No Way!’ And I look round and there is a tall, kingly guy, with a hat. So I finished the set and I came off stage and we were just chatting for about 10 minutes. I didn’t know what to say. I’m not going to be like: ‘What are you doing this summer – are you going to Ibiza?’ So I was like ‘How’s your dad?’ But he was understanding and basically said that he really liked the music and he knew the words – that was a pretty big deal for me. What do you look for in the opposite sex? A pretty face, of course, but also confidence. I also like somebody who is in tune with who they are as a person. If I meet a girl, it’s good if she knows her values, what she’s about, what she wants to do, and where she is going in life. Some women are just there for the moment. I also look for somebody who is quite tolerant; as you can imagine, I am a little bit everywhere at the minute so I need somebody who has a bit of patience. And somebody who will take care of their appearance, and knows how to put an outfit together. What is your favourite biscuit? Probably a chocolate HobNob. Good with tea.You can never go wrong with a HobNob. What is your favourite holiday destination? Recently I’ve been to a load of places but it’s all been work-related so that sort of cancels them out. I was talking to a girl – who I am sort of seeing – and I was like, we should randomly just go to the airport one day and get on a plane. We can go wherever. She said Italy – it’s maybe not my favourite destination but it could be where I am going. What is your earliest memory? Having pictures taken with my sisters, you know, professional portraits and my parents dressed us really nicely. I must have been about three and one sister was two, and the other sister was just born and I was holding her. I’ve got a song called Snap, which is about taking pictures and preserving memories. Pictures can tell you a thousand things – it can trigger how you were feeling, whom you liked, and what you were into. It’s good to look back on. So when I do my live show, you might see it on a screen behind the live band. As a final question, we ask Tinie to come up with his own question that we will put into the mix for the next personality to potentially pick out. His suggestion? “Where is the weirdest place you’ve ever had sex?” However he refuses to reveal his own answer. New single Written in the Stars is out on September 27th from the album, Disc-Overy, out on October 4th, on Parlophone. Photographer Roger Rich Fashion Editor Abigail Sutton Grooming Maarit Niemela at D+V using Elemis Photographic Assistance James Loveday Fashion Assistance Gary Salter Special thanks Spring Studios. Grey knitted jumper by Cos £35, white T-shirt by Nike from a selection, black-framed glasses by Cutler & Gross price on request.

a new fragrance for women

S/S 2010 PREVIEW 26

S K E TC H Y

London fashion week

V I B E . . .

When did you first want to become a designer? designERS reveal very Omar Kashoura (see the different approaches first two fashion sketches, below): It’s been a good number of years now since my desire to begin playing with materials came about. Graduating in 2008 is really when the brand was born. Justin Smith (work shown below, far right): I didn’t plan it. I was researching hats to make the avant-garde hair shows I did for Toni & Guy stronger. As soon as I made my first hat, the obsession started. I have always been inspired by couture. Hannah Marshall (below, third sketch): I can’t really pinpoint an exact occasion or time, it was just a natural decision for me. I have always been inspired by the power that clothes have to communicate, and I design clothes that are about empowering women. What is your earliest fashion memory? OK: I would have to say it was my rebellious attitude

towards my school uniform. Simply rolling up my shirt sleeves was always one of the best touches. JS: Discovering Thierry Mugler, What a genius. HM: It’s not my earliest, but one of the most exciting things I did, before setting up my own business, was being at the Robert Cary-Williams show, where I helped backstage. It was my first taste of a real show, the chaos backstage and the calm confidence outside. What were your inspirations for this season? OK: Relaxed ambition; a return to early morals, with camaraderie and make-do-and-mend; primary colours and recycling are approached in a modern way. JS: Stained-glass windows and Italian fashion in 1881. HM: Control, Privacy and 3D. How much time have you spent putting this collection together? OK: Too long, but never long enough... JS: About two months in total, with a great deal of help from a lot of great interns; without them, the collection couldn’t come to life in such a short time. HM: The majority of my time was spent getting lost in research and developing new techniques, but the most exciting part for me is seeing the toiles come to life when we fit them on our fitting model.

Do you anticipate finishing the second before the catwalk show? OK: Oh definitely. Last season most of the team had left for the show venue while my assistants, Andrea and Tessa, remained in the studio sewing show pieces right until the very last minute. JS: No. I have just shot my look book and there are three weeks to go! I am very organised. HM: No matter how organised we are we somehow always work up until the last minute. I think it has something to do with the adrenaline rush that you can get from it all. How many collections have you done to date? OK: I have done four seasons since completing my masters for the Omar Kashoura line. JS: This will be my sixth collection to show during fashion week. HM: I started my business in 2007 and chose to exhibit for a few seasons. This time last year I debuted on the catwalk at London Fashion Week with the support of My Beautiful City and Red Bull. In February 2010 I showed my second catwalk collection and now I am about to show my third collection, designed for spring/summer 2011.

What has been your best Fashion Week moment? OK: I began showing two seasons ago; last season was my first on schedule so it has to be my fave. JS: The last show I did with a friend in Trieste at the ITS competition, we’ve started up a company called ES; it’s real couture, and all the looks are amazing. HM: There have been a few amazing moments at London Fashion Week for me. One of which was Erin O’Connor closing my debut show Have you ever had any personal fashion disasters? OK: Hell yeah.... I used to have a Jean-Paul Gaultier jeans T-shirt, which was white and had his signature embroidered all over it. One key detail didn't work .... it finished at my belly button. JS: Haven’t we all? HM: I left my stunning Hannah Martin jewellery in a London hotel after Tim Burton’s movie premiere – needless to say I never got any of it back! What one piece of clothing can’t you live without? OK: Definitely a belt. JS: Braces. HM: My leather ‘power jacket’. I wear it all the time and have designed a new version for spring/summer 2011 in suede.

Words Simon Chilvers (Assistant Fashion Editor at The Guardian) Portrait Ben Rayner. Fashion Image Toby KNOTT, Fashion Editor WAY PERRY, Hair Ben Jones using Bumble&Bumble, Make-up Terry Barber using MAC. Black and Nude dress by David Koma £2781

DAVID KOMA

DAV I D

KO M A— I

K now ,

K N OW

He's the emerging designer with The X-Factor. But what does his future Hold after his endorsement from cheryl Cole?

David Koma's thick curls provide bounce to his small frame that on a cloudy summer morning is clad in a tux jacket and grey skinny jeans. At just 25, he has delivered just three tightly edited collections (including one for his Central St Martins MA graduation) and has already found himself at the centre of a media dress hoo-hah. Think Liz Hurley in Versace’s safety-pin gown. But instead of being snapped at a film premiere, one of David’s dresses was selected by the nation’s sweetheart Cheryl Cole, for a primetime Saturday night TV appearance on The X-Factor. The short black number, that featured metal embellishment and curved around Tweedy’s bustline, divided critics: Simon Cowell reportedly wasn’t keen. However the dress consequently sold out and marked the arrival of new voice in British fashion. I meet the designer at his London HQ (a residential block of apartments); he is standing outside draining on a cigarette and warmly greets me. What buzzwords would you use to describe your fashion handwriting? Art-based, graphic, bodycon, sculptural, sexy, and there is quite a lot of embellishment. Where does inspiration for your autumn/winter 2010-11 come from? The work of Italian futurists, such as Fortunato Depero and Umberto Boccioni, alongside an ongoing admiration of the designer Geoffrey Beene. How did your fashion career start? When I moved to St Petersburg from Georgia, I insisted on taking drawing classes. There were a lot of doctors in my family but no artists. At 13 I knew I wanted to be a fashion designer when my mother gave me a fashion book featuring Central St Martins. Apart from Cheryl, who else have you dressed? I was working on dressing Beyoncé for the MTV

It 's

S erio u s

Europe Awards. The dress was the finalé look from my MA collection, which featured similar embellishment to the one Cheryl wore on The X-Factor. I have also dressed Lady Gaga, Megan Fox and Rihanna. How did Cheryl wearing your dress on The XFactor come about? I didn’t know Cheryl was going to wear the dress. She obtained it independently. I thought: why is it such a big deal? I certainly don’t believe in being famous through one dress. Did everything change for you once the various starlets were reported wearing David Koma? It was probably all a bit too much, too soon. It was quite weird because people started calling me, you know from radio stations and magazines.. I didn’t want to talk to them and didn’t like the attention. We don’t look for celebrities, if a celebrity really likes us, then we work together. Are you more interested in what influential people in the industry think of your work? Yes, people like Sarah Mower (the British Fashion Council's first Ambassador for Emerging Talent) and Louise Wilson (Central St Martins' head of MA fashion). Louise forced me to prove I was good. At St. Martins; you can do whatever you want But you need to be ambitious; you need to know what it is you want. What is your main reference point for you upcoming spring/summer collection? The artist Fernand Léger, because of the shadows and quite weird lines. But I already know what I am doing for autumn/winter 2011-12. As a young designer I haven’t had time to say much but I’ve got quite a lot of things to say. I think that now is the best time to experiment, to risk. Because, you know, London is the most exciting city in the world. Is there a change of direction brewing for the label, then? Not quite yet. That big change of direction is going to happen but it should be at the super-right moment.

www.chloe.com/love

introducing a new fragrance

Silver jacket £350, navy T-shirt £80 and trousers £150, all by James Small, trainers by Converse £39.99. Portrait Alistair Guy. Fashion Image James Mountford, Fashion Editor Matilda Goad, Grooming Adam De Cruz at Punishment Ltd using Shiseido Men, Hair Gow Tanaka at Punishment Ltd using Paul Mitchell, Photographic assistance David Meachen, Fashion Assistance Charlie Ransom Mccarrick, Model Max Barreau at Models 1

JAMES SMALL

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Just a look down the front row at James Small’s debut Small’s debut. So what’s he got uP show would have tipped you his sleeve for the next collection? off that this designer was someone out of the ordinary. Lily Allen, Kate Moss and Jefferson Hack were all in attendance along with Small’s ex-employer, one Kim Jones. Once the show started, however, furtive glances at the celebs stopped and all eyes turned to the catwalk. Small produced a tight collection of sharply tailored pieces, inspired by astronauts and featuring smart shirts along with silver puffas. Forget the connections – this guy is all about commercial-cool: ie clothes that boys will wear. Rollacoaster tracked him down to find out more. Why did you start your label now? I left Kim after seven years and was looking for a job. It was a grim time to be applying – I was going for things I didn’t want and not getting them. I was out with my friend [stylist] Bryan McMahon and he said ‘Why not just do it?’ I was a bit drunk and said I would. But then I actually did. Did you always want to be a designer? I went to art school where I grew up in Canterbury and did textile design. My teacher suggested applying to the London College of Fashion and I didn’t know what else to do. After I graduated I worked in a bar. I started working with Kim after a mutual friend recommended me. What did Kim think of you starting your own line? He seems positive about my stuff. He’s not gushing, but I wouldn’t expect him to be. He helps me out, gives me advice. I learnt so much there. I was really hands on, which is invaluable. Was it strange getting so much press because of who came to the show? I knew there would be interest because of that – I’m not stupid. I did get a bit paranoid the day after because that’s when the blogs come out. But these are my

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friends, I hang out with them. I would have been upset if they didn’t come. Are you pleased with the collection? When I decided to do a collection, I never thought it would look like that. I knew I didn’t want to do sportswear or straight tailoring, but it came out somewhere in the middle. I think that it’s good to spend the first year gaining an identity. It’s still too early to say what that identity is yet. What’s the next collection like? Really different – it’s way more gaudy. I always find spring/summer hard – I like coats, winter stuff. In the summer, I just wear the same pair of shorts I’ve had for 10 years and a striped shirt. I have been going to lots of festivals this summer though and based it on that – it’s a bit rocky… Are you doing a show again? I’m actually doing a video. My friend Jamie [Hince] often does these super 8 films on holiday and it’s inspired by those but will be directed by Tom Beard, who does Florence & The Machine videos. We’re filming it in the Cotswolds.

We told you it was smaller...

Black checked bustier dress by Richard Nicoll £600. Boa boots by Hunter £100. Portrait Thomas Giddings. Fashion Image Toby KNOTT, Fashion Editor WAY PERRY, Hair Ben Jones using Bumble&Bumble, Make-up Terry Barber using MAC.

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Richard Nicoll has just purchased a bike. Today he rode it along a Hackney canal be as different as night and day, to meet me for a double espresso coffee and a chat. as he explains to Becky Davies And very nice it is too. Although he is also busy preparing his third collection (if you include the cruise designs) for Italian label Cerutti, this week he will also be showing the label that bears his name at London Fashion Week. Nicoll's collections look set to

Have you ever walked down the road and seen someone at random wearing Richard Nicoll? I don’t think I ever have. Not even wearing Richard Nicoll copies? There have been a few. Oh yeah, there certainly have been quite a few rip-offs. But I haven’t actually seen a mum wearing it, if that’s what you mean. Does your mum wear Richard Nicoll? Yeah. She’ll do really bad things though, like mix a showpiece from one season with another – she’ll wear something that really doesn’t go with the other thing. What city buys the most of your label? Actually net-a-porter is our biggest stockist. But we also sell a lot to America, England, the Middle East. Do you think you’d go to another city to show in the near future? I don’t think so, not at the moment. People note you for tailoring, and before that your shirts. How would you describe your style, and how have your collections evolved since you started?

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I’ve always been interested in non-conformism, practical dressing, but in a creative way. I grew up in Australia and went to a boys' school, and I’d always relish getting changed after school – putting on my normal clothes, that were all from charity shops. I think that my aesthetic stems from that study, from that mix of discipline. Were most of your friends wearing mainstream clothes at the time? Yeah. I had school friends and then I had a group of friends that I had outside of school. My school friends were quite ‘jockey’ and they’d wear surf clothes; my charity shop clothes were not unusual for that time, but was for my school. How do you see your label evolving? I’m trying to move my label on to more eveningwear – so that there is a separation between Cerruti and my label. Cerruti will be more day and Richard Nicoll, more evening. Are you happy with that? Yes, because it makes sense for our business to do that. I think, as I grow older, I am more interested in making event wear. Julianne Moore wore one of our pieces recently, it was kind of a day-to-night piece – a jumpsuit. So that was really satisfying. Who is the most exciting person you’ve dressed? It was probably Julianne Moore, actually, because it looked quite adventurous and she looked intelligent. What do you think the hardest thing is to ‘get right’, when designing? Getting the balance. What is your favourite fragrance? Le Labo Rose 31.

Photographer James Mountford Fashion Editor Matilda Goad Grooming Adam De Cruz at Punishment Ltd using Shiseido Men Hair Gow Tanaka at Punishment Ltd using Paul Mitchell Photographic Assistance David Meachen Fashion Assistance Charlie Ransom Mccarrick Model Max Barreau at Models 1. Grey cotton jacket £180 and dark grey wool trousers £180 both by DKNY

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D O N N A K A R A N – I N A N E W Y O R K S T A T E O F M I N D AS dkny opens two men’S

Donna Karan is a onewoman fashion dynamo. stores IN THE UK, Karan Not only has her own- name COMPARES LONDON TO NYC label celebrated its 25th anniversary this year, but her younger line, DKNY, is set to open two new men’s stores in the UK this month. We caught up with Donna at her Seventh Avenue office in Manhattan to talk the talk. After an amazing quarter of a century, what are you most proud of? Donna: The alignment of Donna Karan and New York City. That we celebrated women. That we never stopped finding solutions to problems. That we took women’s day into evening with comfort and ease. That we kept evolving forward, and that we never felt the job was done. You gave women the template for a working wardrobe. Do you think that fashion has helped women in the workplace? Anything that makes a woman feel powerful and confident helps her in the workplace. That’s why I felt so strongly about taking her out of a man’s suit and a bow-tie and giving her clothes designed for a woman’s body without losing any of her authority in the process. Would you describe yourself as a feminist? I’m a feminist as long as the idea is we stand next to men. I very much feel that women and men need one another. Your father Gabby was a tailor and your mother Helen a showroom model – what is your

first memory of fashion? Fashion was simply there from the day I was born. My first job was in retail at a shop on Long Island. I was 14 but said I was older. In high school I put on a fashion show as a project. My father, being a tailor, had the biggest influence on my work in the sense that I love the precision of menswear. There’s no room for error. I love tailoring that sculpts and moulds to the body in a flattering way. What is the favourite item of clothing you own? It would have to be the bodysuit. For me, it’s the foundation of dressing. I can practice yoga in it and then throw on a skirt, pants, a jacket or a cashmere sweater and be dressed for the day. I have other pieces I fall in love with each season, but the bodysuit is a constant. What is your favourite item of clothing for a man? I’d say a well-cut jacket. One that can be worn as part of a suit one minute, and a sports jacket over jeans the next. The key is flexibility. You chose London as the location for the first international DKNY flagship store in 1994? How does London compare to New York. I love London and spend a lot of time there. It’s the doorway to Europe in many ways, a melting-pot culture, modern and old, traditional and dynamic – which makes it much more like New York than it is different. What one thing could you tell us about yourself that would surprise people? That I’m a passionate texter. I text everyone I know. David Hayes

ICONS OF COOL

M CQ UE E N Check mate. Steve McQueen’s winning look in The Thomas Crown Affair (1968)

Clothing can make the character for film legends. Sky Movies’ JOSH HOWIE uncoverS the looks that define screen icons.

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Over the years screen legends have shown that style is timeless. When David Beckham - to many, the epitome of modern-day cool - recently confessed that Steve McQueen was his sartorial idol, it showed that movies can play just as big a part in popularising fashions and trends as catwalks. Sky Movies resident movie geek, Josh Howie tends to agree… The power of clothes and cinema were what got us as kids to put on our Superman costumes, and run around in the belief that we were really flying. Think of this as a slightly more grown up version of that. The costume stopped fitting me when I was 17. The clothing that our favorite film characters wear are talismans of their special powers of coolness. Now repeat after me: If you dress like them you will be like them. Why should the girls be the only ones allowed to play dress up? Every new ‘Sex and the City’ brings with it a cavalcade of fashion advice for the ladies, so here is our chance gentleman to shine. Getting that dirty business of the hard sale over with, for the week of 20th September, Sky Movies Showcase is having an ‘Icons of Cool’ season and I’m going to use that as my template for dispensing the film fashion advice. Who doesn’t want to be cooler? So let’s ease ourselves into it, nothing too drastic to start with. That bastion of coolness: the leather jacket. But there are many choices – style, color, what to wear it with? How to best get across that winning combination of rebellion and masculinity? You can’t go wrong with Steve McQueen’s ensemble in ‘The Great Escape’

- a dark brown leather airman’s jacket, with chinos and a blue sweatshirt. A slice of classic Americana, but no help at jumping over barbed wire on a motorcycle. Or if your lady is on the Twilight tip – go 80’s vampire with Kiefer Sutherland in ‘The Lost Boys.’ Rock the ‘biker leather jacket under an overcoat’ look, allowing you to give out the contradictory message of danger and snugglyness. The undead man who’s over-prepared for bad weather. Or perhaps you’re feeling more confident? Think you can handle the long black leather coat worn by Al Pacino in ‘Carlito’s Way’? I thought I could when I found one fifteen years ago in a second hand shop. Looking at photos from that time I was wrong. It was less the ‘reformed Latino 70’s gangster’ vibe that I was going for, and more ‘confused ex-Goth crossing over into hip-hop.’ Though, a few years later, that jacket did come in handy again during my tragic ‘Neo’ phase. Maybe the kind of cool you’re going for is a bit more suave, in which case it’s all about the suits. Again starting with Steve McQueen, few wear a three-piece suit better than him in ‘The Thomas Crown Affair.’ Mind you, he can pretty much wear whatever he wants and still be badass. Check out the black polo neck in Bullitt for proof. Anyone else and the criminals would be laughing too hard to even get their car started for a chase. In ‘The Thomas Crown Affair’ though, McQueen’s impeccable suits convey as much about his character as his acting; control freak, slickness, intelligence and filthy rich. In other words, the required winning combination to have some chess sex with Faye Dunaway. In fact when it comes to cinemas way of highlighting

Gene-ius styling for Mr Hackman (The French Connection, 1971)

H AC K M A N

the anti-hero – that good guy doing bad things or vice- modeled in ‘Serpico.’ Here Al Pacino plays an incorversa – most of the time the easiest thing to do is chuck ruptible, undercover cop, who is way cooler than any him into a suit. A guy who makes the effort to put on of the criminals he hunts. Maybe that’s why he’s so a tie can’t be all bad can he? Would Johnny Depp in good at his job? He lures them in with fashion advice. ‘Public Enemies’ be as sympathetic if his Tommy gun “Damn brother, where did you get that sweet bucket was accessorized with a jeans, trainers, t-shirt combo hat?” “You’re nicked.” But don’t get cocky now. As tempting as it might rather than a pinstripe number? Sure, George Clooney and Brad Pitt are stealing millions of dollars in ‘Ocean’s be to fashion a waistcoat by ripping the flesh straight from back of some unidentified furry four-legged creaEleven,’ but damn do they look great whilst doing it. I became converted to the suit at an early age. The ture and wear it with a brown poncho / grandma’s rug right suit can work magic. When I was 18 I ‘borrowed’ over your head, a la Clint Eastwood in ‘The Good, The one of my dads nice suits to try and get into a fash- Bad And The Ugly’ – trust me, you will just look bad ionable nightclub in London. And whilst waiting in and ugly. Which brings me to my final lesson. Maybe the queue I became aware that everyone was staring in you now feel ready to graduate to the final level, but I’m awe at me. Everywhere I looked someone was throwing not going to lie to you, there are some items of clothing worn in films that have only me a furtive glance. I was looking “Everywhere I looked ever been successfully worn by that good. After five minutes of feeling someone was throwing one character. Other mere mortals like the king of the world, I glanced over my shoulder to see Brad Pitt me a furtive glance. I was have tried to transfer their shamanstanding right behind me. He was looking good. After five ic properties onto themselves and minutes of feeling like with disastrous effect. Only atsoon whisked into the club and I the king of the world, tempt the following if you feel like didn’t get in, but I still like to think I glanced over my you possess the necessary charisma that some people maybe thought ‘Wow, the dad of that kid in front shoulder to see Brad Pitt quota to avoid ridicule. standing right behind mE” James Dean’s red windbreaker of Brad Pitt has a nice suit.’ in ‘Rebel Without A Cause’ might Different suits can be used to say whatever it is you want to say about yourself. Running seem like an obvious choice for conveyance of style. around and killing baddies whilst your trim ensemble Coolness reaches it pinnacle with this poster boy for livsuffers only rudimentary wear and tear like Daniel Craig ing fast and dying young. But collar up or not, in the in ‘The Quantum Of Solace’ suggests a man who keeps wrong hands the only people that red plastic jacket will the rough in unruffled. Want to look nonplussed as your be attracting are those who work for the Child Protecpool skills demolish your opponent? Just go open shirt tion Services. Sticking with the primary colors, what like Paul Newman in ‘The Hustler’ and watch as you about Uma Thurman’s bright yellow tracksuit in ‘Kill break the impeccably dressed Minnesota Fats into un- Bill: Vol 2?’ Don’t do what I did and go for the ‘postdoing his top button. Or how to best signal that you Crazy 88 fight’ look with all the blood splatter. There might be the one honest guy who gives a damn in the wasn’t enough ‘Daz’ in the world to clean it up afterCity of Angels? Obviously Jack Nicholson’s white suit wards. And to be fair I just didn’t have the body for it. in ‘Chinatown.’ Also people might be dazzled enough to The blonde wig looked good though. The one item of clothing you would never, ever, ever not notice the massive bandage across your nose. Not subtle enough? Follow Gabriel Byrne’s lead in ‘The get me into is the workman jacket with fluorescent strips Usual Suspects’ with a crumpled yellow suit. Hey pres- that Bruce Willis wears whilst killing various people in to, you’re a man trying to go good, but slightly soiled. Die Hard 2: Die Harder. Even when rave was still in. I don’t care that it was snowing and freezing and Bruce Just watch out for Mr. Soze. Now lets talk accessories. The not-so-humble hat. If would have got hypothermia without it and the terroryou don’t watch out this little piece of shaped headwear ists would have won and his wife died in a plane crash. can dominate your whole being. Gene Hackman’s char- Sometimes there is no excuse. I wouldn’t say it to his acter in ‘The French Connection’ is so identified by his face though. And what is that one dream item of clothPorkpie hat that it becomes his name. I guess it’s better ing that I’d do anything for a chance to strut my stuff than if he were into wearing Beaver hats. Susan Sa- in? Obviously Robert Downey Jr’s suit of armor in Iron randon completes her journey from uptight waitress to Man. I’d like to see them try and turn me away at the free spirit in ‘Thelma & Louise’ when she trades in her nightclub with that on. Zap. Josh Howie presents The Movie Geek on Sky jewelry for a worn cowboy hat. Shame it didn’t come with wings. And Harrison Ford in ‘The Raiders of the Movies/HD, a monthly film show which is also Lost Ark’ is so attached to his fedora that he’s repeatedly available on Sky Movies Anytime. Much to Josh’s willing to risk death to get it back on his noggins. Might delight, Icons of Cool season is now showing on Sky Movies Showcase/HD until Sunday 26th I be so bold as to suggest a chinstrap or something? Don’t forget combinations. Gary Cooper in ‘High September. The season celebrates some of HolNoon’ brings together the bowtie and waistcoat to dead- lywood’s coolest characters with 24 titles backly effect. It says “Yes, I’m uptight and a bit of stickler to-back including The Hustler, Serpico, Raiders for being on time, but I will not back down. Ouch.” Of The Lost Ark and culminates in a showcase A slight alteration on this theme is the somewhat more of seven Steve McQueen movies – watch on Sky relaxed look of brown leather waistcoat over a kaftan, as channels 303/314HD

REASONS FOR LIVING What is Josh HOWIE looking forward to seeing at the cinema?

JOSH

I love looking ahead to see what cinematic goodies are coming our way in the coming months down the yellow brick road. First up, at the beginning of October we have ‘Mr. Nice’ telling the true story of the Howard Marks and his dope importing days, based on the book of the same name. That same week we also finally get the sequel to ‘Wall Street’ - ‘Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps.’ Don’t be put off by the lame title. It was meant to come out earlier in the year, but was supposedly so good they held it back so they could show it at the Cannes Festival. Towards the end of the month is ‘The Social Network.’ You’d think a movie about the history of Facebook might be a strange

choice of subject, but with direction from Fight Club’s David Fincher and a script from The West Wing’s Aaron Sorkin, you know this is going to do more than poke you. Even the trailer is genius. November gives us ‘Let Me In,’ remake of the brilliant Swedish vampire art film ‘Let the right one in.’ It’ll be interesting to see if they can do the original justice, but having Kick-Ass’s Hit-girl playing the lead is a good start. If you loved ‘The Hangover’ then get excited for ‘Due Date,’ which reunites its director Todd Phillip’s with its breakout star Zak Galifianakis and invites Robert Downey Jr along to the party. And December? I’ve only got two words for you my friends. TRON. LEGACY.

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PIERRE HARDY

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THE A/W10 SHOE THAT

Pierre Hardy has done it ALREADY HAS A WAITING LIST again. The oh-so-charming French designer behind AS LONG AS OXFORD STREET some of the most drop-dead gorgeous shoes in the world - think Balenciaga’s ‘techno-Meccano’ heels, as well as the more classic designs for his exquisite own label has teamed up with high street giant Gap for a seventh season to produce this autumn’s ‘gotta-have’ accessory. A killer wedge heel, lace-up boot with a peep-toe cutout in three gorgeous colourways. Rollacoster caught up with the man himself at his Paris studio to talk shoes, sex, art and more shoes. After designing in a such a Couture way for your own collections, do you approach designing for Gap differently? Is it more challenging? What I like about designing for Gap is that I have to reconsider all my issues; to try and create something new and find a way to design something that is sexy and feminine, but with all the restrictions I have. In a way it forces me to be more radical. Actually I really, really like it. I start off with: ‘I can’t do this and can’t do that,’ so I have to think in a more straightforward way. It is like cooking a really simple dish with a few good ingredients, like making a great pasta dish. Do you bring any of that way of working back to the designs for your own label? When I come back to my own collection I try to use some of that simplicity, that low-tech way of working and make things more obvious, less abstract. What is it like seeing your designs on the high street and worn by more women? That is the best return for me - to know that more women will look at my shoes and be able to enjoy them. What inspires you? You have an art school background so does art influence you? What are your favorite artists at the moment?

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I really like British artist Gary Webb at the moment, but designing for Gap is more about a taking a feeling closer to what is happening in fashion. It is more of a street product so I try to be less abstract and design something that when a woman sees it, she will want it. Shoes and sex are inextricably linked. Do you design women’s shoes with sex in mind? I would be silly not too! But I think it is insulting to women to think that is all they want, just to look sexy. Women look for thinks to feel strong, secure, clever, boyish, more feminine.... so many things. There are so many different aspects that make women buy the things they buy. Sometimes women want to feel more secure - and at times shoes can help with that too. Is the same true for men? What do you think men look for in shoes? I think men look for the same things when they buy shoes, but they are much more shy about it, they look for things in a softer way. Men want to look sexy too and not look like their grandfathers or feel like an old man, but they go about it in a much subtler way. What shoes are you wearing now? At the moment I’m wearing desert boots. I wear desert boots a lot these days. I think it is because I feel old, but not old enough for more classic shoes. *Laughs!* Desert boots are the perfect solution! If you were to design a shoe to represent Paris, what would it be? It would have to be a black stiletto - not too high though. Something daring and sexy, but black. Most definitely black. And London? For London it would have to be something influenced by rock music. I’d have to say a platform shoe - something really Ziggy Startdust! David Hayes Suede, leather-mix peep-toe wedge by PIERRE HARDY for GAP, £89.50 stockist gap.eu

CINEMATIC CONSIDERATIONS Summer is over. Beer garden drinking is over. Acceptable weather for sunglasses is over. Mourn all you like but the darkness is coming. It does, however, bring an end to the endless parade of mindless, soul-destroying stupidity that’s been attacking our local cinema screens for the past three months or so. Traditionally this is known as the start of a season of higher quality films which means less talking animals and more films about Iraq. Now that you’ve less cash to spend on Cornettos and flip-flops, what on earth should you be going to see? One of the surest bets looks to be The Town (Sept 24), Ben Affleck’s directorial follow-up to Gone Baby Gone. Sadly this time he also stars in it, but luckily alside Mad Men’s Jon Hamm, and The Hurt Locker’s Jeremy Renner. It’s a crime drama about a woman (Vicky Cristina Barcelona’s Rebecca Hall) who unknowingly falls for the guy (Affleck) who recently took her hostage in a bank heist. Typical. Looks Mystic River-y though. Also on the verge of some Oscar buzz is The Social Network (Oct 15), David Fincher’s take on how Facebook began. Zombieland’s Jesse Eisenberg and Justin Timberlake co-star as the sickeningly young billionaires who invented digital poking. If you’d rather not spend 90 minutes feeling violently jealous, then perhaps Buried (Sept 29) is more you. A rather unenviable Ryan Reynolds wakes up to find himself buried in a coffin with just a rapidly dying phone for company. It’s a nightmarish concept and has already been garnering some rave reviews on the festival circuit. Similarly squirmy is the plot of Frozen (Sept 24), which sees three skiers trapped on a chairlift in a freezing cold climate. Their mid-

dle-class problem soon turns nasty as they fight for survival. Carrying on the theme of ‘films where people get stuck’ is a new movie produced by M Night Shyamalan, Devil (Sept 17). Five people trapped in a lift with one possessing possibly murderous intentions. Trailer suggests it could be a whole load of fun. Less fun, is the forthcoming spoof Vampires Suck (Oct 15) that ‘hilariously’ apes Twilight for no other reason than to make money from girls who barely have any to spend from their intermittent babysitting stints. Girls are probably better off following the de-throned queen bee Julia Roberts who returns to the feminine fold in Eat Pray Love (Sept 24). Based on the chick lit fave it follows a woman as she eats, prays and loves her way around the world. Good news being that the love part involves Javier Bardem. The fairer sex may also enjoy Charlie St Cloud (Oct 8), which sees Zac Efron - (OMG, OMG, OMG, have you seen him on the cover of Wonderland?) - try to carry a film without the words high, school or musical in it. If you’re in need of a pick-me-up once the sun has well and truly abandoned your life then The Other Guys (Sept 17) could be worth a crack. It stars Will Ferrell and Mark Wahlberg as the worst cops ever. If that doesn’t make you LOL then maybe Katherine Heigl cleaning up baby excrement in Life As We Know It (Oct 8) might work? Finally for those that just flat-out hate new things, a 25th anniversary release of Back To The Future (Oct 1) is right up your narrow street. If none of this appeals then I’m simply exhausted with you. Benjamin Lee

ST.TROPEZ EXPERTISE. EVERY TIME THE FASHION TAN MADE EASY BY THE EXPERTS

DEVELOPED WITH INNOVATIVE AROMAGUARD™ FRAGRANCE TECHNOLOGY.

BECOME THE EXPERT AT: WWW.ST-TROPEZ.COM/EXPERTS

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Don’t wear silver with gold - those rules are so old. Same goes with double, triple or quadruple denim: your local curtain twitcher may not like it, but we will. Photographer Tim Richmond, Fashion Editor Abigail Sutton. Jeans by Freesoul £80, shirt by Wrangler £75, T-shirt from a selection at Cassie Mercantile, shoes by Dr Martens £90 Pictured Right: Customised jeans by Levi’s £80, T-shirt from a selection at Cassie Mercantile. border from Left to Right: Jeans by FREESOUL £89.95, jeans by French Connection £50, jeans by G -STAR £179 ,geans by G-star £169 and Jacket by Wrangler £115

ABOVE: Jeans (customised by stylist) by Levi’s £80, denim shirt by GStar Raw £190, cut off denim jacket with badges from a selection at Cassie Mercantile, shoes by Dr. Martens £90 RIGHT: Jeans by Levi’s £80, knitted jumper from a selection at Cassie Mercanitile Model JAMES ELLIS at M&P

PEOPLE'S PETS

Portrait Alistair Guy

Jackie Collins lives in Queen’s Park,

Where are you from? I was born in Windsor from London with Hairdresser lurcher heritage, but I consider myself Irish. James Brown Is it a nightmare having to buy two pairs of Louboutins, instead of the conventional two? Don’t tell James that I’ve nicked his credit card, and I buy two pairs of Louboutins and hide one pair. Who is your ideal man? Wellard (from EastEnders) is my ‘bit of rough’ but Lassie is my chocolate-box dreamboat. And Scooby -Doo is my fantasy. How do you keep your trim figure? I go for lots of walks, usually twice a day. I like running, but am not keen on the gym – I’m more of an outdoorsy-girl.

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How about your diet, what is that like? I follow the Atkins, so I’m a bit of a carnivore – I avoid refined foods and carbohydrates because they bloat me. And I never eat after nine. Do you have any siblings, and if so do you still keep in touch? I have a half-sister called Kiki (a Shetland pony). I don’t see her much as she lives in the countryside. Is their any rivalry? Sometimes I get jealous, but I am the one who wakes up with James every morning. What are your thoughts on fur? I love it and never go out without mine. Is there anything else you’d like to add? My couture accessories are all hand-made in Ireland. Look out for James Brown’s ‘Great British Hairdresser of the Year’ talent-finding series being shown next year on E4.

www.freesoulworld.com

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MAN prepares to hit the LFW men’s runway With NEW POWER STUDIO, Martine rose and Felipe Rojas LLANoS

Joining New Power Studio (aka Thom Murphy) on the MAN catwalk during London Fashion Week’s Men’s Day will be the scrumptious Felipe Rojas Llanos and blazing Martine Rose. The show will mark Topman and Fashion East’s 11th anniversary on this initiative. I catch up with the three design elements in a West End pub, to discuss their lives in the countdown. Love that Martine has a pint. Did you all know each other before? Martine: We’ve got mutual friends [points to Thom]. Felipe: And I’ve seen him before [also points to Thom]. Thom: Yeah, I saw you in the street the other day… Have you sorted the music for your shows? M: I have just started looking at the music today, but no, not really. F: I’m looking into everything and putting it in my iPod, then taking it away to listen to, so I can work out what I want. It’s hard until you see the finished looks. M: What about you, have you done yours? [She looks at Thom] T: Yes, I sorted mine last week. What music do you listen to in your studio? F: I listen to a mixture of things, because I like to keep it as background. M: I’d rather have Radio 5 Live on, because I can’t have crap music on – that would really do my head in – and if I’ve got good music on I’m really distracted – so I just listen to a nice chat. T: Yes, I always listen to music. Sometimes Madonna’s Borderline. How many hours do you spend in the studio a day? F: It depends… M: Do you mean in the run-up to the show? Yes. Is it more nine to five before that? M: It starts off like that and then… forget it. T: Three hours' sleep in two days, that’s about right.

becky

Photographer John-Paul Pietrus, Fashion Editor Mark McMahon, Hair Keiichiro Hirano at DWManagement using Therapi, Make-up Karina Constantine using Dior, Fashion Assistance Ellie May Brown, Digital Jenni Hare at Provision, Shot at Sunbeam Studios, Models Gabriel at Select, George at Premier and LUKE WORRALL at D1.

The boys wear Martine Rose, Felipe Rojas llanos and Power studio. Trainers by nike.

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F: I think toward the end of the collection you don’t need a lot of sleep – you just work on adrenaline. Is it mainly interns that work with you? M: I like inviting my friends in for their opinion. F: I have a lot of artistic friends, and they can see your work from a different perspective. M: Someone gave me some advice the other day, I had some friends coming in to see my work and they said: ‘Don’t ask them what they like, ask them what they don’t like.’ I think that is brilliant, as you are giving them permission to say ‘I don’t like that.’ T: I’ve got a few friends that do that, too, but I have some good people working with me, all girls – no boys. Have you got a favourite piece in your autumn/ winter collection? M: I’ve got a few: bondage trousers that were made from nylon, with zips up the back and a blue shirt with a big suede patch at the front. F: I have three that I really like from my ‘Suspended Animation’ collection. One is this voluminous ballooned coat that I made in a technical fabric, in three tones of blue; I also really liked my hot-fuchsia dinner jacket, with magnetic fastening; and small vent at the back - it is slightly angled to capture the concept of movement in that collection. T: We did jumbo piping… M: I love jumbo piping! T: We did it coming down here [he points down each side of his chest]; and then on the trousers we had it coming down here [he draws a line down his inner leg] – so it looks like you’ve got a massive knob. [Everyone laughs] That leads me nicely on to my last question: Lady Gaga was recently quoted saying she was scared to have sex with anyone incase they stole her creativity through her vagina. Can you emphasis with that? F: I’m not letting anyone near my vagina! M: You’re not going to put that in, are you?

PHARRELL He’s not so forthcoming about his latest record or his clothing line But get PHARRELL WilLiams on the controversial subject of politics or the current state of the music industry, and the intelligent artist is well away Photographer Kenneth Cappello Fashion Editor Way Perry Words James McMahon

12.50pm, London, on a very overcast Wednesday; Rollacoaster has been waiting to speak to Pharrell Williams for 50 minutes now. For the horde of young hip hop fans clutching autograph books and CD sleeves, it’s been a longer wait. There they stand outside central London’s Soho Hotel, darting for cover whenever rain breaks out, waiting for their idol to arrive. Benji, 19, from Hackney has been waiting since 8am. Doug, the hotel concierge, has been “keeping an eye on him” ever since. When Pharrell Williams finally does arrive, he makes an entrance that’s both bold and not a little bit ridiculous. It’s just gone 1pm when a sleek BMW with blacked-out windows pulls up to the entrance of the hotel. The autograph hunters inch forward gingerly, arms extended, CD inserts and peaked caps speckled with rain. Pharrell – sporting a summery, cotton Billionaire Boys Club combat jacket and neon pinkand -orange Bermuda shorts, an outfit suggesting he’s arrived via a Miami beach party and not a TV taping that’s overran – steps out, with friends and associates following. Doug opens the hotel door, the singer salutes politely to the crowd. On the forecourt Benji and co grow keener, now moving forward in metres and strides rather than inches. Then things get freaky. Another car pulls up to the hotel entrance, a car containing another famous hotel guest. Out steps Jeff Goldblum. Y’know, that Jeff Goldblum. The Jeff Goldblum that quipped witty stuff while running away from dinosaurs in Jurassic Park, whose cock fell off in The Fly, the one your mum fancies. Then, out of nowhere come a gaggle of screaming housewives with their autograph books in tow. Then three tramps, one missing a leg, all with cans of Tennent’s in their hands, follow. Doug looks very confused indeed. One of the tramps shouts at the aging Jewish actor: “ear, Jeff, I bloody loved you in Columbo...” Jeff Goldblum looks even more confused than Doug. “How did you have a television to watch Columbo?” enquires a hip hop kid. “You’re a tramp!” All of the housewives call out: “Jeeeeefff! Jeeeeeff! Jeeeeeff!” Then Rollacoaster catches sight of Pharrell Williams. He couldn’t look more confused by the scene if he just observed a herd of breakdancing unicorns. And Rollacoaster? Rollacoaster’s just thinking: “Whoa! Where did you get those shorts from dude?” Our interview takes place inside the Soho Ho48

tel, in a plush – and it must be said, bookless – side room the staff call “The Library”. Pharrell shakes our hand, removes his shades, keeps his cap on and briskly apologises for keeping us hanging about. We take a seat across from him. His US and UK press representatives – each woman taking the position of the dominant meerkats in a mob – take their seats beside and behind, watching out for problematic questions or anything that might make their charge sweat. It’s a little heavy-handed. Pharrell strikes us as a man who needs no one to look out for him – and who has scant patience for anyone or anything he doesn’t want to waste his time with. Case in point; Williams isn’t rude – but nor does he ask us round for Christmas dinner. He says from the off that he’s “exhausted”, and it certainly takes some time to stir him into engaged conversation. Regarding a polite enquiry about the half-pipe he’s alleged to keep into in his house, he tells us he keeps it “in Virginia not Miami”. Then when we follow that up with a not particularly inquisitive query about how many houses he owns, he responds with “oh man, I don’t do that”, as if we’d asked him to tell us the precise size of his dick or something. Case in question; the principal reason Rollacoaster is here today is to talk to the 37-year-old producer, musician and fashion designer about the recently released N.E.R.D album Nothing – Williams band’s fourth studio album and their second since their brief hiatus in 2005. From the monosyllabic responses he gives us, it soon becomes clear to us that the topic is a subject the Virginian has little interest in speaking about. Similarly, in the early stages of our conversation at least – almost as if he’s sussing us out, assessing whether we’re worth his time – the verbal brick wall of “a not particularly engaging answer” followed by a curt but polite “yes sir” comes down whenever we ask him something he doesn’t want to talk about. For example... Hey, Pharrell! Tell us about Child Rebel Soldier, your hip hop supergroup with Lupe Fiasco and Kanye West! Is that still happening? “I dunno. I saw Kanye the other night and spoke to Lupe the other day. They’re cool.” So is it going to happen? “I’m open to it. We’ve all just got busy schedules.” Wait for it. Wait for it... “Yes sir.” And where do you go from there? But ask him about politics (a subject it’s worth reiterating that modern artists normally embrace with all the fervor they might approach licking the icelolly of a leper), or the artists he’s currently work-

ing with (“Gucci Mane, Nicki Minaj, t.i....”), or the present state of the music industry, or how he just spent a tonne of money on having the lion’s share of his tattoos removed from his body... well, ask that stuff and he’ll talk about such subjects with wit, wisdom and poise. Even if he will later digress on a particularly batshit tangent about iPhones and guns... Speaking of which, ‘how does it feel to have the lion’s share of your tattoos removed from your body?’ “It’s agonizing,” says Pharrell, easing into the couch and declining his PR’s offer of a coffee. “It’s much, much worse taking them off than putting them on. They literally zap the ink out of you, they break the ink. I’m speaking figuratively of course...” Why did you decide to get rid of them? “Meh” shrugs Pharrell. “They’re done.” Painful (and it must be said, eccentric) medical procedures aside, it becomes apparent as our conversation gathers pace that Pharrell Williams is a highly opinionated, obviously well educated, progressively thinking man. You’d hazard a guess that he really rather likes the interview format presented to him. That as a genuine hip hop superstar, he welcomes the platform presented for him to wax lyrical on the issues of the day. Furthermore, it appears he appreciates the fact that people are interested in his thoughts. And while it may take 10 minutes or so before we get our heads around all this, it all makes for a welcome approach, especially when so many musicians in such situations treat such conferences merely as an opportunity to promote whatever brings them to the juncture. It means Pharrell Williams doesn’t particularly want to talk about – say – his new single, his plans for N.E.R.D, or his clothing line Billionaire Boys Club. But other far weightier topics are fair game. Let’s start off soft... Pharrell, what new music are you currently excited about? “I like Janelle Monae,” drawls the singer. “She’s a genius. She’s incredible. And I like the new Mark Ronson single. Those two artists deserve to be the people having hits right now. They’re certainly nostalgic in nature, not particularly edgy, but next level for what’s happening right now.” You’re such a productive artist, have you ever felt jaded with making new music? A pause. I’ve been drawn to that point, yes. When was that? A longer pause. I’ve always loved music, but you can get drawn to a point where you want to take a break from it. There’s other stuff I’m interested in, anything with

Red embroidered flat peak cap by ICE CREAM £95, red round neck sweater by BIILLIONAIRE BOYS CLUB £175

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IT’S PHARRELL WILLIAMS

Grey embroidered hoody by ICE CREAM £205

Pocketed denim shirt £250, Brown andorange body warmer by BBC £550 www.bbcicecream.com. RIGHT: Grey dog face T-shirt by ICE CREAM £70, Blue silk scarf by BBC £190 Grooming Johnny Castellanos, Photographic Assitance Jason Goodrich, Fashion Assistance Jessica Mycock, Technical Matt Mcginley, Special Thanks to ANNOUSHKA GILTSOFF at A NUMBER OF NAMES

art and culture, really. I truly believe that art, culture and science are the means to civilisation – without them we don’t exist. Other than just music, what else would you like to do with your career? Well, I just did Despicable Me (the new Universalproduced 3D animated movie staring Steve Carell), That was an amazing experience and I’d like to do more of that stuff. I met Daft Punk last night and they just did Tron. That sounds amazing. What about politics? You were heavily involved in Rock The Vote and Obama’s presidential campaign – are you happy with the results thus far? I think it’s funny when people ask that,” he laughs. “Because you have to remember that the guy had more on his desk than any US President ever. Obama’s had some shortcomings, but he’s done something that nobody has been able to do in 60 years and that’s reform healthcare. That’s such a huge deal for America. A huge, huge deal. It’s enormous. So what does he need to do next? That’s a good question, because the things that he needs to deal with are unreal. For example, there’s this issue right now with the site of the World Trade Centre, where the 9/11 attacks occurred – they’re building a mosque [very near] there, and they’re going crazy about it in the States right now. Like, totally ballistic. And here’s the thing about Obama. He has to do the right thing, and that’s not necessarily what the people want. What do you mean? Well, sometimes the thing with humans is they want what they want – and that’s not necessarily the right thing for them. Like, people sometimes want a lot of salt, but that gives you high blood pressure. Yet, in moderation, it works. How does this relate to Obama? Well, that’s what America is, it’s about balance, and that’s what Obama has to get right. I mean, America practices more than religious tolerance – the constitution practices religious freedom. But that religious freedom is being challenged by propaganda and people who are planting fear. Like the people who carried out the attacks and the Islamic terms they used – that isn’t Islam, Islam means peace. But to many Americans, Islam means fear. That’s what Obama has to deal with. He has to say to a whole lot of people, who are nervous as shit – because they watched 3,000 people die, because they watched the economy plummet, because they lost their houses – that there’s a place for everybody.” Do you think he can do that? I dunno. It’s a big ask. The thing with America is the two sides do not get along. The Republicans and the Democrats… bipartisanship isn’t like playing basketball! It’s like soccer in Europe. The team that loses wants to fuck the other team up. They want to kick the winning team’s ass even after they’ve lost. And that’s what politics is like in the States. There’s never going to be a clear victory for a guy like Obama, and he needs to know that. When he walks out of office, whether he gets elected for another term or not, he needs to say, “I gave you healthcare.” He needs to not care about being loved. You don’t think he is loved, though? I think he is – to anyone with the slightest of liberal leanings at least... Well, JFK was loved. Clinton was loved. And I think Obama will probably be loved too. Have you met him? Yeah, he’s cool as shit. I don’t know who’s cooler, him or Jay... Jay-Z?

Yeah, they’re both cool. Like, you know, cool. Obama might be a little bit cooler. Sorry Jay... You’ve got your label, Star Trax. Shall we talk a little bit about the music industry now? Sure. People always talk about the music industry being in crisis – nobody selling any records, big labels not developing new acts. As an insider, what’s going on? I think music – the songs, the records, the people playing it – will be fine. But the industry that supports all that is shrinking, and that’s because it’s based on a different paradigm. You mean the model is outdated? Yeah, the tyre treads are wearing thin. Times have moved on, people look at technology in a different way, technology has shifted. You can judge a civilisation on its technology – where it’s going to go and where it has the possibilities to go. With very few exceptions, I think the music industry has always been slow to new technologies... Right, so the industry or anyone observing it shouldn’t be surprised when someone or something hits it with a bat.

By bat, you mean downloading? Right. So what does it need to do now? I think it needs to study other business models, other consumer businesses. And they need to study the behavioral patterns of humans – what makes them respond, perception, how we look at things, all that. And they need to relate that to technology. Hey, do you have an iPhone? Yeah. What noise does it make when you unlock it? It’s sorta like ‘ckkkkk’. Right, and what is that sound? I dunno, it’s sort of like a ‘ckkkkk’. I’ll tell you what it is, it’s a gun being cocked. Um. I don’t think I’ve ever seen it that way. But that’s what it is. And they use that sound because it makes you respond to something. It’s not promoting violence, its understanding human responses. It’s why when other phones make a stupid beep you just go “huh?” but with the iPhone you don’t. And that’s part of the reason why it’s a successful project. It’s like when people use pharmaceutical drugs for something other than what they’re intended for...

I’ve lost you... OK, so you know when your grandmother put honey on your knee when you grazed it? Mine used butter, but go on... Well that’s crazy isn’t it, because honey is for eating! But it works, and somewhere in that process there’s a sense of familiarity that makes you trust the product. And that’s what the music industry needs to do. It needs to understand the stimulus that makes humans respond. It’s what all consumer industries live or die on. But that’s quite a – um – progressive idea. It’s not a myth that the music industry is principally run by slow, regressive thinking people – it takes a long time for new ideas to get to the top... But not in all aspects of the industry. Look at Asia. They won the phone race. They had videophones 10 years ago. I was there. I saw them. I mean, you’ve got no idea what’s there. The gadgets they’ve got are unreal. Do you like Japan? Yes sir. Shit, we were sorta on a roll there... Our conversation continues for a short while – we briefly discuss the new N.E.R.D record, but only so far as how “inspired” Pharrell and bandmate Chad Hugo are feeling right now, and how much of “a roll” they’re on, following on from that hiatus, through 2008’s Seeing Sounds, and writing and releasing the songs that make up the new record. We then talk a little bit about how N.E.R.D have evolved in the nine years or so they’ve been a going concern – but not with anything approaching new insight or revolutionary depth. And all with “yes sir” peppering the discourse. Then his label representatives call time on our conversation. Williams needs to go, to make a dint on his “sleep deprivation”. But not just yet. As we’re rising to leave that inquisitive, opinionated mind cranks into place once more. This writer mentions how he just bought an iPad, and briefly discusses the interesting useful things he’s been doing when he hasn’t just been canning Angry Birds or playing digital Connect 4. Pharrell wants to know more, has opinions on how the gadget will revolutionize publishing, is interested in aps, in the future of digital media... but he’s yawning and he really needs to go. Which leaves us thinking this; on his record companies paper promotional schedules at least, Pharrell may be in town to promote the new N.E.R.D record, but what he’s more interested in is growing as an artist, and embracing the new world. Why would he talk about what’s happened, when there’s an opportunity to talk about what’s to come? As we’re leaving the Soho Hotel we walk into the remnants of the chaotic scene on the forecourt we left 30 minutes or so prior. “How was Pharrell?” asks one of the tramps, still nursing his Tennent’s, taking interest in where we’ve just been. “Well, he was really rather charming,” we reply. “He talked about Obama, and Jay-Zand about iPhones and guns and honey and stuff...” “Yeah, but did you ask him about the shorts?” says the tramp. His friends, the hip hop kids and the housewives draw closer. No sir, no sir I did not. Hey, this shit could catch on... For the chance to win a Billionaire Boys Club t-shirt signed by Pharrell, e-mail your most embarrassing moment to info@rollacoaster.tv

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RO BY N Jacket by The Only Son £420, top £239 by Hannah Marshall, earring Robyn's own Photographer John-Paul Pietrus, Fashion Editor Mark McMahon, Hair Keiichiro Hirano at DWManagement.co.uk using Therapi, Make-Up Karina Constentine using Dior, Fashion Assistance, Ellie May Brown, Digital Jenni Hare at Provision, Shot at Sunbeam Studios

Two thirds of her way through A

It’s a good time to be Swedish. Like a new wave of allwhirlwind year, robyn talks Music, conquering Vikings, the Swedes are tearing up the milkshakes and BEING A SWEDE literary, film and (of course) music charts, coming a long way since the relatively tame days of Pippi Longstocking and ABBA. When announced earlier this year that Robyn would release not one, but three albums in 2010 (following five years out of the studio), her fans must have felt a sense of the proverbial bus: ‘you wait for one, then three come along at once’, and then eagerly awaited this titillating musical trilogy. Body Talk Part 1 was released back in June, and Part 2 was out last week. Part 3 remains TBC. Rollacoaster is fortunate enough to have stolen some time from the diminutive pop star between photo shoots (she’s in the UK for another promotional whirlwind), before she hops back on a plane to return to her homeland to continue work on the third title.

A surprising amount of music in the world originates from Sweden. With your three albums this year, are you looking to single-handedly increase that percentage? [Smiles] I’m not thinking in the terms of Swedish music or taking over the world – I’m just making music. I’ve been making records for about 15 years and the scenario of releasing an album, then touring, and not making an album until maybe every fifth year just felt boring. So it’s not a conceptual idea or any kind of attempt at breaking a world record or anything – it’s just a new way of working. Do you have a travelling recording studio that goes everywhere with you? No, I go back to Sweden regularly to record with the people I work with there – which is nice for me because I get to be home a bit as well. What’s the best thing about Sweden? It would probably be that you get free dental care until you are 18. Excellent! Although not if you’re too old for that…. Other prominent Swedish exports currently include films and books, such as Let The Right One In and The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo – are you a fan of any of those? I’m more inclined to read, Let The Right One In. Are you a fan of vampires? Not really a fan of vampires, but I think that writer [John Ajvide Lindqvist] is interesting. He’s made a couple of books – not only about vampires but zombies and all kinds of scary stuff. Do you find you are patriotic? As I’m growing older it is easier to appreciate our social system and how people are taken care of in Sweden. And I appreciate that there are not a lot of people – you can go out into the woods and really be alone. There is a lot of nature. It’s a calm and good place to go back to when you’ve been touring!

Out of Alexander Skarsgård, Freddie Ljungberg or Benny Andersson, who would you choose? Um… Benny Andersson, I would say. Is that the musical connection? Or do you think he is desirable? Oh, you mean like that!? [Laughs] Well, whatever! Well, yeah for me it’s Benny. I think ABBA is the most admirable accomplishment out of those three, for me. If you could make a Swede Super Group, who would be in it? Neneh Cherry, Karin Dreijer from The Knife and one of the girls from ABBA. How did Snoop Dogg get on board for the track U Should Know Better on Body Talk Part 2? I did some vocals for one of his remixes [2008’s Sexual Eruption] and we just decided to say “Hi” when I was in LA and hook up. He’s a really interesting person – he loves music, he’s very smart and funny. Are there other people you would want to work with? I don’t keep a list... I work with a lot of people who are not generally known. Are there any unsung champions you would like to highlight now? Well there is Klas Åhlund – he has a band called Teddybears who some people know about – we make most of the music on my albums together. There is also a guy called Patrik Berger who produced Dancing On My Own. There are lots of people in Sweden that are amazing. You’ve been touring with Kelis for the All Hearts Tour in America. We’ve heard that her milkshake brings all the boys to the yard, but is her milkshake better than yours? [Giggles] We have different types of milkshake. I think hers is more strawberry, mine is more liquorice. Did you enjoy touring together? We loved touring together and I think our fans really liked us touring together as well – it felt like it, at least. She’s a really cool chick, she’s really down to earth, really nice. Will that same tour be coming to the UK? Maybe. We haven’t talked about it yet, we’ll see. We’re already booked doing different things so it’s more about organisation than the actual will – we’d both love to do it. How is Body Talk Part 3 going? It’s going really well. It’s very early. I’ve just started writing again so it’s very hard to say. But I have some things I’m working on with Klas, Patrik Berger, Kleerup and Diplo. Hopefully it’ll be done this year, but it might take a bit more time. It could take until next year. We’ll see. Do you shop in IKEA? Of course! Doesn’t everyone? Body Talk Part 2 is out now under Konichiwa Records/ Island. Robyn returns to the UK to perform in October. Words: Seamus Duff

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Photographer Kristin Vicari, Fashion Editor Julia Sarr-Jamois All clothing and accessories by Miu Miu A/W10 www.miumiu.com. ABOVE: Black spats £170 and black heels £385. RIGHT: Orange wool and metallic dress £1820 and purple bag £750

ABOVE: Vernice necklace £250, black wool dress £1030 RIGHT: Embellished top £2340, black trousers £860, purple shoes £395 Hair Tomihiro Kono at Balcony Jump using Kiehl’s, Make-up Mel Arter at CLM using Dior Fall look & Rouge Dior, Photographic Assistance Emily Rattenbury, Model Alek at Select

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calvin Klein’S creative director is focused on the bottom line – his new X jeans with High-powered Lycra being launched for autumn

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Leather jacket £350 and denim dress £170 by Calvin Klein Jeans, earrings worn throughout by Wright&Teague price on request Photographer Nik Hartley Fashion Editor Julia Sarr-Jamois Interview by BECKY DAVIES

Being CK creative director you could expect Kevin Carrigan to be quite scary. He is actually pretty hilarious. Both having different times printed out for our interview was a bit of an icebreaker. His said 2pm and mine 2.30pm. What are you going to do? “Just do half an hour here [his hotel suite]; and half an hour in the taxi, he suggests. Then you can have the whole Calvin experience!” So that’s what we did. How did your career start? I studied design at Ravensbourne, and my MA at The Royal [College of Art]. I knew I wanted to go to the Royal and not St Martins because there were architects and industrial designers there – it really was like a mini art community, and not just a fashion one. And boys in architecture are always sexy. [Laughs] – I ended up being married to one. Do you prefer designing womenswear or menswear? Both equal. Men’s is easier because I know what I like, and I know my proportions and shapes. Women’s is a little harder as I feel there is so much out there, so much choice that there are so many ways to go. Is there anything you’ve seen that you wished you’d designed? I’d have loved to have invented the five-pocket jeans. Now I update it constantly, but can you imagine introducing the five-pocket denim jeans? I love that sense when you design a simple product like that, it is so subtle it can change the way someone dresses

and their whole silhouette. In the past six years the women’s skinny jeans have become a staple of her wardrobe. And if you think about five years ago, it was nowhere to be seen. Our new X jeans have launched for fall, they’re a super-high-powered Lycra that is contoured with your butt. It really enhances your shape. A PR comes in to Carrigan’s Adlon Hotel suite and directs us to the lift. “Ahhh, that bag is by one of my girls, he says pointing to my tweed Alexa Mulberry bag. Emma Hill, she’s great!” As we step into the car, he tells me he is off on his holidays soon. …So you are going to Capri? Yes, on holiday after here [he is in Berlin for Calvin Klein’s multi-brands event], which I am really looking forward to after the fashion events. A little end to my European tour: after men’s fashion week, Piti Rome, Berlin Fashion Week, Bread and Butter and this event. It’s like a little weekend off before I head to Hong Kong on Tuesday. Do you like going away to relax? I am a workaholic; I usually work seven days a week. When I do relax it is like that – a quick Saturday/Sunday – done. And I have a house out in Long Island that I try to get to most weekends when I’m in the New York – so that’s good for relaxing. My friend Dan lives in New York and he said I should bring some Ribena for you, but I was worried I’d spill it in my case. Would you have liked some? [Laughs] – yeah: Lucozade, Ribena or Aero would have been good.

Sweatshirt from Max Pearmain Hire, jogging bottoms £120 by Calvin Klein Jeans, hat and shoes Frank’s own.

Clockwise from top left: Vintage jumpsuit by Calvin Klein Jeans from a selection at Mint Vintage, vintage belt by Calvin Klein Jeans from a selection at Rokit. Longsleeved t-shirt by Calvin Klein Underwear £29, black jeans by Calvin Klein Jeans £100, shoes by Palladium £50. Vintage sweatshirt by Calvin Klein Jeans from a selection at Rokit, white jeans by Calvin Klein Jeans Jacket by Calvin Klein Jeans price on request, shorts £75 by Calvin Klein Jeans, vest £21 by Calvin Klein Underwear. All clothing by Calvin Klein jeans and Calvin Klein underwear from A/W10 Stockist: Calvin Klein Jeans 020 3100 2901 www.calvinkleininc.com Hair Ben Jones using Bumble&Bumble, Make-Up Thomas de Kluyver using MAC, Photographic Assistance WILL CORRY, Fashion Assistance Cecily Bear, Models Maaike at Select, Andy and Frank

OMG IT’S JLS! SHOPP I N G

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J LS

Words BECKY DAVIES, Photographer ROGER RICH, Fashion Editor JULIA SARR-JAMOIS

Organising a Selfridges shopping trip with JLS for Rollacoaster came about simply because we thought it would be fun to meet them. Oritsé Williams, Jonathan “JB” Gill, Aston Merrygold and Marvin Humes have enjoyed serious success since coming second to Alexandra Burke on The X-Factor in 2008. Their self-titled debut album sold 1.2 million copies in the UK and debuted at number one; they won two Brit Awards this year; two Mobos last, and have a bountiful fan following – us now included ;-) It is a well-known fact that you are lovely boys, would you agree with that? [All Laugh] A: What do you think? You are nice, and very easygoing A: There’s no reason to be any other way. Do you think that is why you’ve been successful, because you all get on well together? O: Definitely, for me it is one of the key points – the bond we have between us. If we didn’t have that, a lot of things wouldn’t have worked out. People can see it you know, people can see in our performance that we generally get on and like each other. M: I think in a band it’s very clear, when people get on and if they don’t. People these days want something that is honest, organic and genuine. I think we represent that. We are not a manufactured band; we came together a few years ago, on the basis of pursuing the same dream. We’ve all made sacrifices for each other and we still do. I even think with coming through the process of the show and stuff that was the key survival factor. Was doing The X-Factor difficult? M: You are under cameras 24/7, and if you are not used to it, it can be quite a strain. It’s also hard because you are trying to change your life – like everyone in that competition. Everyone is looking for the ultimate career; they want to win the show and it’s a highly pressured situation that you find your-

self in. When you are in a group and you’ve obviously got love for each other, it makes that situation far easier. How did you get together? A: It’s all because of that man sitting next to you [Oritsé]. The one with the hat… M: …and the knuckle-duster ring A: …and the jacket. M: When I first met you, you had a hat… [They all laugh] A: And the ring … M: It’s just changed now because he can afford an Alexander McQueen ring! So you started the band [looking at Oritsé] O: Yes. And how did all of you get involved? [Looking around at the rest of them] O: Marvin and me had a mutual friend; he gave us the application for The XFactor. And JB and me had a mutual friend as well. We all got together and started singing and we knew we had something together. I don’t think we ever imagined we would be in this position now. You know the funny thing is when I was starting the band it was the only thing that people told me I was doing that just wouldn’t work. I did loads of stuff and all the boys did other stuff, but everyone said ‘This isn’t going to work.’ And we proved everybody wrong. M: We were together for a year before we did The X-Factor. A lot of people don’t know that; we worked really hard. And when we first got together we treated it like we were all on the same page, we all had common goals – we’d get together four or five times a week to rehearse and chill out. So we are obviously now in a position where we are extremely thankful for everything we have achieved. But we did work hard for it. And we still work hard now. Who came up with JLS? M: It was a natural thing… JB: No, it wasn’t a natural thing – it came from Marvin’s girlfriend at the time. It comes from Jack the Lad Swing, which is a genre of music we

were trying to create when we were in the studio. M: Do you know what Jack the Lad Swing means? No. [All Laugh] M: People think that one of us might be called Jack. I can imagine what it means… ALL: What do you think it means? Swing music… ALL: Yes, yes – that’s right. M: But what do you think is swing, other than Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin? Swing music from the Nineties? JB and M: Yes, exactly. O: You are absolutely right! A: You is right. M: So it is an American-style type of music with a British vibe to it. Hence Jack the Lad is a British saying. The four of us are mates, we understand music, music like swing, and you put the two meanings together and – Jack the Lad Swing! You are all known for your dance moves, aren’t you? A: Yeah. This is one of my favourite dance moves [a baffling move created with arms crossed over each other]. One what do you think of it and two what is your favourite dance move? O: What the hell was that. How did you do that? A: You do it quite strong there. It doesn’t matter whether you did it right or not; you did it with such conviction. O: I think it’s tricky. [Aston laughs] A: That’s not tricky. What does tricky mean? A: It means it’s a bit off-key, a bit shady. What are your favourite dance moves? [All start swaggering and strutting] Yours is a back-flip isn’t it? [to Aston] A: Yes. And you can do them too, can’t you? [To Marvin] [All laugh – no he can’t!]

JB: I can do cartwheels But can you do a roly-poly? JB: Yeah, of course. M: Go on then. JB: Do a roly-poly? [He gets up and does one] Do you read your fan mail? ALL: Yeah. M: We reply to it as well. How much do you get? M: We get about 300 bits of mail a week. I heard about the girl that set off the alarm... ALL: Tanya You know her!? JB: Are you talking about the latest one? Yes, in The Mayfair Hotel. ALL: Yes we do – love Tanya! Do you have a message for her? JB: Tell her I’m going to bring her some shirts, and hopefully we’ll see her soon. A: What happened? M: She set off a fire alarm and she has been banned – there is a picture of her in the tabloids. A: When, when? JB: This week. Poor Tanya A: She wouldn’t have done that man! M: She was holding up a bit of paper in her hand… A: Doesn’t mean she set the alarm off though. M: She might have been banned from The Mayfair, but she didn’t set that alarm off. A: Maybe someone else did…. M: Exactly Who is the most famous person you have on your mobile? A: I appreciate that question…ask Oritsé O: Stevie Wonder! [He says putting his phone in his pocket] [Gasp!!!] A: Ahhh, there you go! All right! So, how come? A: Come on Oritsé – everybody loves the Stevie story… O: The very quick version? Put it this way, we were having a debate… M: Let’s see how quickly he call tell it. [All laugh]

Aston wears jumper £250 by Prada, JB wears T-shirt by D&G from £99, Oritsé wears T-shirt by D&G from £99, Marvin wears jumper £485 by Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquiere. All clothing from Selfridges.

Photographic Assistance Rob Wiley, Fashion Assistance Alex Unwin and Cecily BAER, Grooming Michael Gray, Hair Michael Green, Special Thanks to Anna, Lucy and Cherry at Selfridges

M: You need to convey all of the details in the quickest time [he holds out his watch]. ALL: Go, go, go….. O: So, we were in Heathrow airport and we were in the boarding lounge before we went to the US. We had a debate about who was our favourite singer. Um…. mine was Stevie Wonder. OK…we went into the lounge – Stevie Wonder was there. And then – we exchanged numbers. All heckle him: you missed out the best bit. O: So I said, ‘Stevie, maybe I can get your number and we can come and see you later, and all that sort of stuff, and Stevie turned around to me and said: ‘I’m gonna give you my number, but if you give it out, I’m gonna kick your ass.’ M: That took three minutes, the story usually takes eight.. Have you seen him perform? JB: Marvin has been to watch him. I saw him at Selfridges once with only about 100 other people. JB: You saw him perform at Selfridges! O: Why wasn’t I invited? It was before you were famous [All laugh at him] You’d be invited now…. A: Who else was there? Cilla Black was there. They all start doing impressions of Cilla Black: Surprise Surprise/Hey it’s Miss…Cilla Black/da-na da-na, da da da da da da, ALL THE WAY THROUGH to the end Best legs in the business… JB: She has!? So what names have the rest of you got on your phones? A: My phone’s full of girls… M: I’m trying to think…. James Corden JB: Kelly Brook’s ex-boyfriend A man at my local pub, who’s 50… [All laugh… yeah…] …. said that Jay-Z is interested in working with you. JB: HA….who is this? A: So if you are 50, and a bloke, and straight you aren’t gonna be allowed to like JLS? It’s not your target…. Marvin goes to talk and then does a hiccup/burp hybrid [All the boys start screaming with laughter] ALL: Rewind, rewind the tape! Aston starts doing an impression of the strange sound.. What was that? A: He just went… M: Sorry Becky. Jay-Z has been quoted as saying he really likes us, and he really like our stuff, which is wicked. A: If you do that in front of Jay-Z he’s not going to want to work with us. [Then he holds in his breath and then lets it out, to mimic what Marvin did] They all start laughing again and Aston has taken himself to a corner doubled over with laughter… JB: You can’t say that we didn’t make you laugh… What are you doing at present? I understand you’re travelling around the UK? JB: We are doing our summer tour – we’ve got shows up and down the country. We have a tour in America, and then we’ll be here doing our next album. What is your favourite JLS song? A: Mine’s from the new album M: Yeah, mine too. O: We can’t tell you what it is. JB: I’ve got a newfound enthusiasm for One Shot. M: Yes, I’d choose One Shot. A: Everybody in Love is my favourite – it’s from the first album. Forthe chancetowin a signed JLS album emailyour favourite memberto: info@rollacoaster.tv