February 09 by Rome Post

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Exhibitions – Opera – Concerts – Entertainment

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Monthly newspaper · year II - issue 4

www.romepost.it · 10 February – 10 March 2009

FutuRoma 1909-2009

All the fun of the fiera 17 years after the opening of Disneyland Paris the Italian capital is to seek a larger slice of the European tourism market, with plans for three major theme parks. One theme park will depict life in Ancient Rome, complete with gladiators, centurions and the Colosseum, Cinecittà World will take visitors on fantastic journeys of movie magic and entertainment, while the entertainment park of Terra Magica will be second in size in Europe only to Disneyland Resort Paris. See pg. 5

The Rioni of Rome: Garbatella

Urban village

To celebrate the 100th anniversary of the birth of Futurism, from 20 February FutuRoma will offer a wide and varied range of special events. See pg. 10

Cinema city Rome has formed the backdrop to a string of memorable movies.

See pg. 14

Neat little houses set in a warren of narrow, winding streets, steep steps and sudden quiet courtyards. An atmosphere which harks back to Italian village life in the early 1900’s: everybody knows everyone else; children play at football in the small squares; the elderly spend their days on park benches and if a housewife finds she’s run out of salt or wine she can send one of her children to a neighbour to borrow some. This is one of Rome’s most special and enchanting neighbourhoods, Garbatella.s. See pg. 6

Crisis, what crisis? Interview with Lazio striker Simone Inzaghi. See pg. 15

Dalai Lama made a Citizen of Rome

Italian economic crisis (ANSA) Rome – The Italian government on 6 February adopted an emergency plan to help the automobile sector which has been hit hard by the global economic crisis. The package also included measures to boost the sales of motorbikes, home appliances and furniture, for which demand has plunged in recent months. The measures were contained in a decree which takes immediate effect and needs to be approved by parlia-

The Dalai Lama on 9 February became an honorary citizen of Rome. During the citizenship ceremony Rome Mayor Gianni Alemanno gave the 1989 Nobel peace prize laureate a statuette of the Roman shewolf feeding the infants Romulus and Remus, while the Dalai Lama gave him his traditional white scarf. In welcoming the Dalai Lama to city hall, Alemanno said “your presence here is our moral revolt against injustice, violence and oppression. A moral revolt in favor of the identity of a people and the right of each and every one of us to express their won spirituality and culture”.

ment within 60 days. Premier Silvio Berlusconi said without these measures to boost the automobile and durable goods sectors “the state would have lost 700 million euros in VAT revenue, taken in 1.2 billion euros less in tax revenue and seen additional welfare costs in the neighborhood of 500 million euros”. See pg. 2

Friday 6 and Saturday 7 Sala Petrassi 21:00

Tuesday 17 and Wednesday 18 Teatro Studio 21:00

(USA/CHINA)

(ISRAEL/HOLLAND)

CLUB GUY & RONI

SHEN WEI DANCE ARTS

- IN COLLABORATION WITH AEROWAVES KAREN LEVI, HUGO DEHAES

Italian Premiere

Thursday 19 and Friday 20 Sala Petrassi 21:00

European Premiere

ALAIN PLATEL/FABRIZIO CASSOL LES BALLETS C DE LA B

Tuesday 10 and Wednesday 11 Sala Petrassi 21:00

ANNE TERESA DE KEERSMAEKER – ROSAS

Friday 20 and Saturday 21 Teatro Studio 19:00

Saturday14 Sala Petrassi 21:00

Saturday 21 Sala Petrassi 21:00

EQUILIBRIO PRIZE ROMA 2009

Italian Premiere N

(DENMARK)

FORESTILLINGER

SAMUELE CARDINI, MARINA GIOVANNINI

Monday 23 and Tuesday 24 Sala Petrassi 21:00

LUOGO COMUNE – PAUSA PARADISO

(FRANCE)

WINNERS EQUILIBRIO PRIZE 2008 - World Premiere O

KAASPER DAUGAARD POULSEN/CLUB FISK Italian Premieres

(ITALY)

KISS ME GOODNIGHT

COUPLE-LIKE

HANGING IN THERE

(BELGIUM)

(ITALY/SWITZERLAND)

(HOLLAND)

(IRELAND)

PITIÉ!

LINGA

Direzione Generale Spettacolo dal Vivo

NICK BRISON/DAMIAN PUNCH/ LEGITIMATE BODIES DANCE COMPANY

(BELGIUM)

ROSAS DANST ROSAS

NEW EUROPEAN DANCE

POETIC DISASTERS

RE – (PART I) MAP

Sunday 22 Teatro Studio 21:00

T E C H N O L O G Y P A R T N E R

POCKEMON CREW C'EST ÇA LA VIE !?

viale Pietro de Coubertin • Rome • Info 06 80.241.281 Tickets and bookings: Tel. 199.109.783 (toll service) A Line Flaminio Station + No. 2 tram; M line bus from Termini Station (from 17.00).

EF EQS T IUV A LI OLF IN EBW DRA NIC EO 5th edition – directed by Giorgio Barberio Corsetti

6 • 24 FEBRUARY

Info, tickets and reductions:

www.auditorium.com

2 ITALIAN JOB Italian economic crisis

Govt’s plan for cars and home appliances

Motorbike sales plunge 39% in January

(ANSA) Rome – The Italian government on 6 February adopted an emergency plan to help the automobile sector which has been hit hard by the global economic crisis. The package also included measures to boost the sales of motorbikes, home appliances and furniture, for which demand has plunged in recent months. The measures were contained in a decree which takes immediate effect and needs to be approved by parliament within 60 days. Premier Silvio Berlusconi said without these measures to boost the automobile and durable goods sectors “the state would have lost 700 million euros in VAT revenue, taken in 1.2 billion euros less in tax revenue and seen additional welfare costs in the neighborhood of 500 million euros”. The government’s action received a cool response from the automobile sector and consumers, both of which saw the measures as insufficient. The head

Civil Defense Chief warns

Italy faces geological risk (ANSA) Rome – Italy is at high risk from a geological point of view because little or nothing has been done over the past 2030 years to protect against landslides and flooding, civil protection chief Guido Bertolaso warned. “Unless 5,600 out of italy’s some 8,000 municipalities action is taken now risk facing major geological problems to prevent erosion, photo: ansa 5,600 out of Italy’s some 8,000 municipalities risk facing major geological problems,” Bertolaso said. The situation in Calabria (Southern Italy) is a textbook case of what has not been done “and all the region’s 400 municipalities are at risk of some kind of geological disaster,” Bertolaso explained. At the end of January sections totalling 60km of the A3 Salerno-Reggio Calabria motorway were closed for days due to landslides following days of heavy rains. “Not only is Calabria at risk of landslides and flooding, but also the regions of Umbria in central Italy and Valle d’Aosta in the northwest, although they are better organised to deal with any problems,” Bertolaso said. Nothing has been done over the past 30 years to avert geological disasters, he explained, “not only because of a lack of funds but also for other considerations. Prevention has never been a hot electoral ticket”. ¶

of Italy’s industrial employers association Confindustria, Emma Marcegaglia said the package ‘’is a step forward but much more needs to be done’’ to help industry. The incentives, which expire at the end of the year, included a cash bonus of 1,500 euros for the purchase of new cars, those with a Euro 4 or Euro 5 emissions rating, in exchange for trading in old ones with an emissions rating of Euro 2 or less, which will then be sent to the junk yard. A Premier Silvio Berlusconi bonus of 2,500 photo: ansa euros will be

given for the trade-in of light commercial vehicles with high emission ratings – Euro 0, 1 and 2 – in exchange for new, less polluting vehicles. A 1,500-euro bonus will be given for the acquisition of vehicles which run on electricity, hydrogen, methane or natural gas regardless of whether an older car is traded-in or junked. A 500-euro bonus will be given to those who trade in their old Euro 0 and 1 motorbikes for those with a Euro 3 rating and with motors up to 400cc. A proposal to exempt owners of new cars from paying their road tax for the first three years was not approved. The decree will allow Italians a 20% tax writeoff on the purchase of home appliances and furniture. There is a limit of 10,000 euros on how much can be spent on these products and the write-offs only apply to those who filed requests to restructure their homes before July 2008. ¶

Healthcare with borders

Citizens Patrols

Doctors to report illegal immigrants The Italian parliament approved a measure requiring doctors to report illegal immigrants, unleashing a barrage of criticism. The measure, which would lift confidentiality provisions for illegals who need hospital care, was contained in a crime bill passed by the Senate to the Chamber of Deputies. The Italian association of hospital doctors has criticised the measure and said its members will not act as “spies”. The head of Catholic doctors association told Vatican Radio Catholic doctors will not report illegal immigrants who show up for treatment despite a government move encouraging them to do so. Vincenzo Saraceni said doctors would not have to become ‘conscientious objectors’ in order to go against the government’s wishes. The Italian branch of Doctors Without Borders warned it could keep illegal immigrants away from hospitals with health risks for society. It appealed to the lower house to stave off “the dangerous healthcare marginalisation of a swathe of the foreign population”. The opposition described the measure, which was put into the bill by the regionalist Northern League, as “racist” and “fascist”. The government insists the measure is needed to help crack down on illegal immigration, which has risen steadily in recent years and has been linked to high-profile crimes. The Northern League hailed the vote as “a victory for our militants” and pooh-poohed the opposition’s strictures. “You are with the foreigners, you defend foreigners and you’re against Italians,” said League Senate whip A new measure requires doctors to report illegal immiFederico Bricolo. ¶ grants / photo: ansa

A ‘Padanian Patrol’ in Brescia in 2001 photo: ansa

(ANSA) Rome – The Italian parliament approved ‘citizen patrols’ which have sprung up to help fight crime in many northern towns and villages. The measure approved by the Senate in a law-and-order bill authorises such groups to report crime to police. But thanks to an opposition amendment the patrols will not be armed and won’t be allowed to work alongside police in policing areas. Most of the patrols have been set up by supporters of the regionalist Northern League to fight immigrantlinked crime. They are therefore called ‘Padanian Patrols’ after the League’s invented name for northern Italia, ‘Padania’, referring to the Po Valley. ¶

PERSONALITIES OF THE MONTH Carlo De Benedetti retires from all posts Italian financier Carlo De Benedetti announced that he was stepping down as head of all the companies he has founded due to his age. De Benedetti, 74, will thus be leaving as Chairman of his industrial holding company CIR, his financial arm Cofide, the Espresso publishing group (which include the Rome daily La Repubblica and the weekly Espresso), the automobile component company Sogefi, his electricity and gas utility Sorgenia and HSS, a holding company active in the health sector, including the management of hospitals and retirement homes.

Frattini: G8 is outdated model The Group of Eight is an “outdated model” and other world powers must be included in its decision-making, Foreign Minister Franco Frattini reiterated. “There are emerging powers with economic and political prominence who are not G8 members, but it’s unthinkable to leave them out of the decisions,” he said. Frattini repeated that under this year’s Italian presidency, the participation of Mexico, Brazil, China, India, South Africa and Egypt will become “more structural”. This year’s G8 summit will take place on the island of Maddalena, off northeastern Sardinia, in July.

Mina to open San Remo Reclusive Italian singing legend Mina is to open this year’s Sanremo Song Festival with a video tribute to Italian music, festival artistic producer and presenter Paolo Bonolis said on the February 17-21 event. Mina, 68, is reckoned by many the finest female pop singer Italy has produced. Louis Armstrong once called her “the greatest white singer in the world”. She last appeared on TV in 1974 and in public in 1978. Although she kept issuing regular albums from the late 1970s to the mid-1990s, her last hit album was in 1975 – until 1998 when a dual album with another pop great, Celentano, went straight to No.1.

OBAMA TO WALK IN ITALIAN SHOES United States President Barack Obama can count a pair of made-to-measure Italian shoes in his White House wardrobe, a Novara shoemaker has revealed. Adriano Stefanelli, who in the past has crafted shoes for George W. Bush, Pope John Paul II, Pope Benedict XVI and the Patriarch of Moscow, said a pair of lace-up black shoes in hand-sewn untreated leather was sent to Washington. “The shoes are a classic Italian product perfect for Obama, who is a real enthusiast of the Made in Italy brand,” he added. ansa

ITALIAN JOB

Battisti case

Extradiction possible (ANSA) Brasilia – The fact that an Italian terrorist has been granted political asylum by Brazil does not automatically mean that he cannot be extradited, the chief justice of Brazil’s supreme court said. Chief Justice Gilmar Mendes Mendes admitted that until now this has not been the case. Mendes has confirmed that the STF would take up the Battisti case in March. The court will either decide to archive the Italian request to have Cesare Battisti extradited, accepting a decision by Brazilian Justice Minister Tarso Genro last month to grant him political asylum, or it will decide if the Brazilian government acted incorrectly in the affair. Cesare Battisti, 54, a former member of a radical left-wing group was convicted in Italy for his role in the murder of four people in the late 1970s and early ‘80s. The Brazilian justice ministry Tarso explained that the decision to grant asylum was based on a 1951 Brazilian statute and a subsequent 1997 law which defined the guidelines for granting asylum that included ‘’the real threat of persecution due to race...or political opinion’’. According to the Brazilian ministry, Battisti had been condemned in Italy only after he had fled to France in 1979

and on evidence not based on fact but on testimony given by a former terrorist turned state’s witness, Pietro Mutti. Genro granted the former terrorist asylum on the grounds that Battisti could face political persecution if he was returned to Italy. Rome has strongly denied this on the grounds that it would be in contrast to its democratic laws and traditions. Italy recalled its ambassador to Brazil last month for consultation but he was back at his embassy later in order to be on hand when the STF examines the Battisti case. Genro is confident that the supreme court will back his decision based on a precedent involving a Colombian guerilla rebel who Colombia wanted extradited. Dismay and disappointed over Brazil’s decision was also voiced by family members of Battisti’s victims. Battisti was arrested in Brazil last March. After fleeing Italy in 1979, Battisti spent 25 years in France where he became a successful crime writer before escaping to Brazil in August 2004. Battisti went missing in France while awaiting the outcome of his appeal against extradition and later turned up in Brazil. ¶

Battisti was arrested in Brazil last March photo: ansa

Battisti: Carla Bruni repeats no role French first lady Carla Bruni reiterated she had no part in Brazil’s decision to grant asylum to Italian ex-terrorist Cesare Battisti. Bruni, who is married to French President Nicolas Sarkozy, met the head of an Italian association for the victims of terrorism, Bruno Berardi, at Sarkozy’s official residence. She voiced “total support” for Berardi’s association, a statement from Sarkozy’s office said. The singer and ex-model “also reaffirmed she did not take any initiative with Brazilian authorities concerning the Battisti dossier,” the statement said. ¶ French president Nicolas Sarkozy and first lady Carla Bruni / photo: ansa

Kercher murder trial reopens (ANSA) Perugia – The trial of American student Amanda Knox and her Italian boyfriend Raffaele Sollecito for the murder of British student Meredith Kercher reopened at a Perugia court on 6 February. Prosecutors have called nine witnesses to begin recreating the events on November 2 2007, the day 21year-old Kercher was found semi-naked and with her throat slit in the house she shared in Perugia with Seattle-born Knox and two Italian women. Sollecito, 24, told judges that he was the victim of a miscarriage of justice. “I have nothing to do with this. I’m not violent, I’ve never hurt a fly. I find it difficult to understand why I’m in this situation,” he said. In October a third defendant, 21-year-old Ivory Coast national Rudy Guede, was found guilty and sentenced to 30 years for sexually assaulting and murdering the British exchange student. The prosecution claims Kercher was killed when all three suspects tried to force her to participate in “a perverse group sex game”. Prosecutors claim that Knox, 21, was responsible for cutting Kercher’s throat while Sollecito and Guede held the British student down. Knox and Sollecito are also charged with the theft of 300 euros, two credit cards and two mobile phones belonging to Kercher as well as simulating a crime to make it look like an intruder had broken into the house. The defendants deny the charges against them. Their legal teams are set to argue that Guede broke into the house and carried out the attack single-handedly while Knox and Sollecito spent the night at Sollecito’s house. ¶ Amanda Knox / photo: ansa

Englaro Case

Right to die Eluana Englaro, 38, a woman trapped in a vegetative state for 17 years died on 9 February four days after doctors have begun reducing the amount of food and water at an Udine clinic. Her case was at the centre of a long political debate, the whole of Italy argued over her fate. The centre-right cabinet of Silvio Berlusconi 3 days before her death had approved an emergency decree to stop doctors carrying out a landmark rightto-die court ruling that was fiercely opposed by the Catholic Church. Ministers approved the measure despite open opposition from Italian President Giorgio Napolitano who insisted that he would not sign the decree on the grounds that it was unconstitutional. The news of Eluana’s death reached the Senate before the emergency legislation rushed out by the government could be voted. It would have ordered medical staff to restore all nutrients. The Prime Minister Berlusconi expressed “deep pain and regret” that he had failed to save Eluana's life. Earlier Cardinal Angelo Bagnasco, head of the Italian Episcopal Conference, declared that refusing food and water to the woman was murder. The woman's father, Beppino Englaro has been fighting for ten years to earn the right to respect what he says were his daughter's wishes. Englaro argued that Eluana, who was left brain dead in a car crash in her Lombardy hometown of Lecco in 1992 when she was 19, said plainly during her life that she would not wish to live in a vegetative state. The Englaro case has often been compared to that of American Terry Schiavo, the severely brain-damaged Florida woman whose case sparked a worldwide debate over end-of-life issues. Schiavo died in March 2006 after her feeding tube was removed at court orders and over the objections of her parents. ¶ Eluana Englaro trapped in a vegetative state for 17 years photo: ansa, rome

State neglect of Venice Monuments (ANSA) Venice – Venice’s famous monuments and churches risk falling into ruin because too much state aid is being directed into a controversial project to protect the lagoon city from sinking, Venice Mayor Massimo Cacciari said. He said it was a “scandal” that there were no funds to restore the Palazzo Ducale in St Mark’s Square or help with the maintenance of churches, canals and other public buildings. He blamed governments over the past 12 years for failing to put up money for interventions in Venice, which he said cost triple those in other cities due to Venice’s delicate situation. “But there is money for the Moses project, which is pleasing for the newspapers and public opinion,” he said. A longstanding opponent of the 4.3 billion-euro Moses anti-flooding scheme, Cacciari said he hoped the experimental system will work when it comes into action in 2014 but added that there were no guarantees. The MOSE project (Modulo Sperimentale Elettromeccanico - experimental electro-mechanical module) consists of 79 moveable flood barriers, designed to rise from the seabed to block the lagoon from the Adriatic Sea when high tides are forecast. After 30 years of debate and testing, the project was inaugurated by then premier Silvio Berlusconi in May 2003 and completion is scheduled for 2014. It is opposed by environmentalists, conservation groups and a large number of citizens, who are angry over the costs involved and concerned at the environmental impact. Experts say there are three main reasons for high water in the city: the rising floor in the lagoon caused by incoming silt; the undermining of the islands by the extraction of methane gas in the sea off Venice; and the overall increase in sea levels caused by global warming. ¶ There are no funds to restore the Palazzo Ducale in St Mark’s Square / photo: ansa

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4 ROME NEWS

170-million euro health service scam

Nightwatch vs drunks and violence City authorities in Rome have announced increases in police patrols in an effort to curb violence, drunken rowdiness and street crime in and around Campo de’ Fiori, one of the Italian capital’s neighbourhoods most famous for its nightlife. Last month, an American tourist was stabbed after a fight near Campo de’ Fiori, the downtown piazza where hundreds go every night to party in bars and restaurants. A spokesman for Rome City Council said police patrols would be “significantly” increased in the area between the hours of 9pm and 4am. In January the Council announced it was limiting alcohol sales in neighborhoods

famous for their nightlife to reduce loud, all-night partying. Under the new rules, no alcohol “to go” can be sold in bars, restaurants, supermarkets or other outlets after 9 p.m. Starting at 2 a.m., the sale of alcohol is banned inside bars and restaurants, although discos are exempt. Residents have complained about the constant noise, and Rome’s new right-wing mayor, Gianni Alemanno, was elected on a law-and-order platform. Campo de’ Fiori is covered by the new measures, as is Trastevere, whose narrow alleys are lined with bars, and Testaccio, home to popular bars and nightclubs. The ban remains in effect until March. ¶ photo: sifone

/ flickr

photo: pallamaio / flickr

talian prosecutors have arrested 12 businessmen and local government officials as part of investigations into a 170-million euro fraud against local health authorities in the Lazio region. Prosecutors are also seeking the arrest of conservative politician and multi-millionaire businessman Antonio Angelucci (65). Angelucci is a member of prime minister Silvio Berlusconi’s “People of Freedom” coalition in the Chamber of Deputies. Under Italian law members of parliament are immune from prosecution unless a special parliamentary commission waives the immunity and grants

magistrates permission to proceed. Among those already under arrest is Angelucci’s son Giampaolo (38). The Angelucci’s family business empire includes dozens of private clinics and two national newspapers. Magistrates in Velletri heading the investigation suspect clinics involved in the scandal systematically charged authorities in Lazio for treatment and specialised medical care on public health patients which never took place. The president of the Lazio Regional Government Piero Marrazzo has pledged a fullscale inquiry into local health financing.¶

Schools in Rome

Life – and language – class Almost 10% of the pupils enrolled in Rome’s elementary schools come from immigrant families. In some schools, like those in the multi-ethnic Esquilino district, the number is above 50%.

{ Emiliano Pretto }

taly has been transformed in recent decades from a nation of emigrants to a target country for mass immigration. While Britain, France, Germany and Spain have sought to face the problems posed by integration of large immigrant communities for many years, in Italy the process is still in its early stages. The number of children from immigrant families at elementary schools in Rome has been increasing constantly over the last ten years. How do the schools meet the challenges posed by these changes? And how best can educational integration be achieved? Roberto Sandrucci taught in a Rome elementary school for ten years. He now teaches older pupils at a scientific high school. “Clearly there are problems to be overcome.

The greatest initial obstacle is language. Many of the children may not speak Italian, which creates difficulties for learning and also for their Once immigrant children have social integration with their classovercome their initial problems mates. At high school level things with the language, they frequently are much better. By that stage the prove to be excellent students. children from immigrant families “Foreign pupils are usually far have acquired fluent Italian and are more concerned about getting good thoroughly integrated.” marks than Italian children, and So the key problem is language. their parents have a much more Unlike Britain, France and Spain, respectful attitude towards schools Italy does not have a colonial history. and education,” explains an adminThe Italian language has not spread istrator at the Di Donato School in far and wide outside the national Esquilino, where around 50% of the frontiers. Many immigrants arriving in Britain or France will come from countries Foreign pupils are usually far more where English or French were already spoken. concerned about getting good Most immigrants arrivmarks than Italian children ing in Italy do not know a word of Italian.

pupils are from immigrant families. Is racism a problem at schools in Rome? Roberto Sandrucci has not had to face incidents of intolerance. “I’ve never personally had to deal with outbreaks of racism. But I know of colleagues working in schools in outlying districts who have. The worst problems happen when there’s a lot of publicity about adults from immigrant communities involved in crime. People take it out on the children. School is just a mirror of society as a whole: if there’s an outbreak of racial hostility towards a specific community – as recently happened with Romanians – then it also affects life in school.” Just over a year ago Rome’s centre-left mayor

Many of the children from immigrant families may not speak Italian photo: ansa

ROME NEWS

Rome to give traffic cops gun (ANSA) Rome – Rome is to give its traf-

Theme Parks in Rome

photo: sebastià giralt / flickr

All the fun of the fiera

urban police pepper spray and truncheons

17 years after the opening of Disneyland Paris the Italian capital is to seek a larger slice of the European tourism market, with plans for three major theme parks.

to protect citizens. But the traffic cops do

{ Emiliano Pretto }

not want the weapons and are appealing to

ne theme park will depict life in Ancient Rome, complete with gladiators, centurions and the Colosseum, Cinecittà World will take visitors on fantastic journeys of movie magic and entertainment, while the entertainment park of Terra Magica will be second in size in Europe only to Disneyland Resort Paris. Announcing plans to build a vast ancient Rome theme park just outside the city, Rome Deputy Mayor Mauro Cutrufo said the model was Disneyland Paris. The park is to be built on a 500-hectare site north of the city just outside the GRA orbital highway. It will provide familyfriendly attractions to show visitors what life was like in the Rome of 2,000 years ago. Visitors will be offered rides through a replica of the Colosseum, where they can watch gladiators fighting each other or wild animals, as the Emperor looks on. The park will offer attractions based on life both in republican Rome, ending with the murder of Julius Caesar and civil war, and the power and might of the Roman Empire.

fic wardens guns to head off a crime scare sparked by a series of rapes in the capital. The city council also voted to give the

a regional court, arguing that by law weapons are issued only for personal defence.. ¶ photo: ansa

Rome is the darkest city in Italy With just 59 light sources per 1,000 inhabitants. This number is just a little more than half that in Milan and Turin,

Mr Cutrufo said it has been calculated the park would bring at least an extra five million people a year to the Eternal City. He added that work on the project, scheduled to begin later this year, would take “three to four years”. Work on the two other theme parks is already well underway. Both are being built outside Rome near to major shopping malls and designer outlets that already attract huge numbers of visitors from the capital. Cinecittà World, at Castel Romano just 25 kms from Rome city centre, will be the only cinema themed park in Europe and is based in part on Universal Studios Hollywood in Los Angeles. The project is being developed by Rome’s legendary Cinecittà studios, where screen classics like “Ben Hur”, “Cleopatra” and “Roman Holiday” were filmed. More than 3,000 movies have been made at Cinecittà . The list also includes Fellini’s “La Dolce Vita” and “Satyricon,”, Anthony Minghella’s multi Oscar-winning “The English Patient”, Mel photo: eye_ivo / flickr

Gibson’s “The Passion” and Martin Scorsese’s “Gangs of New York”. Cinecittà World, which will cover 60 hectares and is expected to attract an estimated two and half million visitors a year, is due for completion in 2011. The Terra Magica (Magic Land) theme park will open next year at Valmontone in the Roman Hills some 40 kms outside the capital within easy access of the Rome-Naples state highway. The park, rising next to the huge Valmontone Fashion District Outlet, will include three rollercoasters, two water rides, theatres and an indoor ice-skating arena in six themed areas linked by 18kms of internal roadways. Terra Magica will be Europe’s second-largest theme park after Disneyland Paris. Enjoy! ¶

whose streets are lit up by 100 light sources per 1,000 inhabitants, and a third of the number in Bergamo and Brescia. ¶

Walter Veltroni tried a novel – and tasty – approach to breaking down cultural barriers between Italian and foreign pupils by introducing ethnic food onto the menus in elementary school canteens. Once a month children had the chance to sample specialities from Albania, Bangladesh, China, North Africa, Eastern Europe or the Phillippines instead of their usual plate of pasta. The city’s new centre-right mayor Gianni Alemanno has abandoned the experiment, infuriating its supporters who saw shared meals as a small but significant step towards far greater goals. ¶ photo: ansa

Interactive Holy See

Vatican debut on YouTube (ANSA) Vatican City – Pope Benedict XVI made his official debut on YouTube with a number of video clips prepared by the Vatican media service posted on the video sharing website. Pope Benedict’s clips can be viewed at: www.youtube.com/vaticanit. The event was announced by Vatican Radio Director Father Federico Lombardi during the presentation of the pope’s message for Social Communications Day. At the same time the Vatican’s website reported the news and said the pope’s debut on YouTube “writes a new page in the history of the Holy See”. “We are convinced that there are people interested in the pope’s message and that they, in their search for the meaning of life, are among the many who surf the Web. It for them that we have opened a YouTube channel,” Father Lombardi explained. The videos posted on the site will include clips of papal audiences, the pope’s meetings with important world figures, celebrations in St Peter’s Square “and daily events which we cover and that we think could be video news,” the head of Vatican Radio said. Father Lombardi added that he will have the final word on the content posted given his position as head of Vatican Radio and the Vatican Television Center (CTV). All the material will copyrighted by the Holy See and prepared by Vatican Radio and CTV and it will not be possible to download the clips, he explained. While the original clips will be in Italian, “thanks to collaboration with H2Onews many videos will also be available in English, German and Spanish,” the Vatican Radio chief said. H2Onews is a worldwide Catholic multimedia news service which focuses on the life of the Church and events regarding Catholics living in the world. “We are starting off with 12 video clips which center on the events of recent weeks and then added to these every day,” he added. The YouTube site also includes a num-

pope benedict’s clips can be viewed at: www.youtube.com/vaticanit - photo: ansa

ber of links with Vatican Radio, CTV, the Vatican daily Osservatore Romano and H2Onews “because we are well aware that the Vatican and the pope are not the whole Church, which is present and operates throughout the world. Thus Catholic TV channels the world over will be called on to contribute video news,” Father Lombardo said. The church’s foray into social networking will also include a number of interactive options including the possibility of sending a message and sharing as well as placing a document in the archive of IGoogle. “Interaction is a path we have embarked upon, we’ll see where it leads us. In the future we hope to expand the range of contributions and the languages used, Father Lombardi said. “The Holy Father was personally informed about our project and we feel very encouraged because he was very pleased with it,” he added. ¶

6 ROME NEWS

On 11 December 1931 Gandhi met briefly in Rome with fascist leader Mussolini. Gandhi had no religious or political agenda for his visit but Mussolini sought to impress the Indian independence campaigner by taking him to Garbatella to show off the conditions in which workers lived under fascism. ¶

Urban village! The Rioni of Rome: Garbatella

An unusual guest

{ Emiliano Pretto } photo: antmoose

/ flickr

erhaps the renaissance of the Roman working-class district of Garbatella can be said to have started in 1994, with cult director Nanni Moretti’s magical comedy Caro Diario (Dear Diary). The film, which won the Best Director’s prize at Cannes, follows Moretti as he rides a Vespa around a summery and semi-deserted Rome. His journey begins in Garbatella, which he doesn’t hesitate to qualify as the favourite neighbourhood in his hometown. The popular actor Garbatella, a maze of streets between Gigi Proietti via Cristoforo Colombo, via Ostiense and Saint Paul’s Basilica, did not exist at the start of the 20th century. In 1920 King Vittorio Emanuele III ordered the construction of a new district to provide cheap accommodation for the influx of workingclass families coming to the capital. Architects wanted to create a sort of Italian version of the British Garden Cities: there were small apartment buildings grouped around courtyards; allotment gardens were included to provide Advertisement

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inhabitants with a valuable source of cheap, fresh vegetables. The new neighbourhood grew up in separate developments designed by different architects: this produced a huge variety of styles and decorations, with many details reminding the viewer of medieval, Renaissance or Baroque patterns. The inhabitants did not find in the new quarter the alien landscape of so many modern urban developments, but rather a homely mixture of familiar styles. From the outset Garbatella was special, with the intimate characteristics of a village. In many ways it reminded the new residents of the small walled towns near Rome from which they came. Tourists have only recently discovered the district. There might be no monuments of special interest but the area is perfect for a quiet stroll on a summer evening, ending perhaps with a visit to one of the many small restaurants serving traditional Roman food. Recently the neighbourhood has rapidly moved upmarket and house prices have rocketed as middle-class incomers try and snap up the few houses on the market. It’s unlikely, however, that attempts to gentrify Garbatella will get very far. Most of the original buildings in the neighbourhood are owned by a housing association whose charter obliges it to provide accommodation for low-income families. Tenants are allowed to pass on apartments from father to son, keeping the property in the family – and avoiding the speculation which has transformed the formerly robustly working-class district of Trastevere into a largely radical chic enclave full of nightclubs, restaurants, wine bars and art galleries – and where house prices have soared beyond the reach of most ordinary Romans. The inhabitants of Garbatella are fiercely proud of its status as a stronghold of authentic Roman traditions, but they also realise the benefits to the quarter brought by the film crews seeking “typical” locations and the sprinkling of galleries and studios arriving with artists and intellectuals. Fifty years ago the radical film-maker and author Pier Paolo Pasolini set key

scenes of his hard-hitting novel depicting young members of the Roman underclass A Violent Life in the streets and alleys of Garbatella. Now the neighbourhood forms the backdrop for a hugely popular television sit-com the Cesaroni, the story of an everyday Roman family running a local bar. Garbatella is also home to one of Italy’s most popular actors Gigi Proietti, by many regarded as a sort of unofficial ambassador of all things Roman. Nothing could be more Roman than spending an evening at the dinner table with a group of family or friends. Garbatella is full of traditional trattoria where you can find Roman cuisine at its best. Piazza Sant'Eurosia Agli scalini de’Marisa (Via Roberto de’ Nobili 17) offers a choice of robust classical pasta dishes: alla Carbonara (with beaten egg, bacon and pecorino cheese) alla Cacio e Pepe (with cacio cheese and pepper) all’Amatriciana (with bacon and tomato) or main courses like Coda alla Vaccinara (Oxtail stew). Another sure bet is Tanto pe’ magnà (via Giustino de Jacobis 9/15) where you’ll find excellent pasta and hearty main courses. Away from the table, the Teatro Palladium (Piazza Bartolomeo Romano) offers a variety of stage shows and live music while the 10b photographic gallery (via San Lorenzo da Brindisi 10b) run by internationally renowned photographer and photo-journalist Francesco Zizola features perhaps the finest selection of art photography in Rome. ¶

Garbatella: True colours • Green – Garbatella has one of the highest percentages of green spaces of all Roman neighbourhoods. • Red – traditionally Garbatella is a left-wing stronghold. • Yellow and Red – Garbatella is a hotbed of support for AS Roma. Neighbourhood walls were painted with huge red and yellow murals when the club won the Italian league title in 2001.

photo: antmoose

/ flickr

PROGRAMS IN ROME P ROGRA M S

I N

ROM E :

u ni q u e

c e l e b ra t ion

A brief entertainment guide EXHIBITIONS

AUDITORIUM – PARCO DELLA MUSICA

Chiostro del Bramante

The Myth of Julius Caesar, first ever show focusing exclusively on him alone; until May 3. Via della Pace, tel. 06.68809035

See also EQUILIBRIO and Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia Viale Pietro de Coubertin 30 Infoline: tel. 0680241281 www.auditorium.com

Museo della Civiltà Romana

The Die Is Cast, sketches of Ancient Rome by Gilles Chaillet; until March 1. Piazza G. Agnelli 10, tel. 06.0608

20., 27. Feb. and 6. Mar. Sala Santa Cecilia András Schiff: Mozart Piano I, II, III

Vittoriano

Foibe. Dalla Tragedia all’Esodo; until February 22. Via S. Pietro in Carcere, tel. 06.6780664

Villa Torlonia

• La scuola romana; until February 15. • L’arte della pubblicità. Il manifesto italiano e le avanguardie 1920-1940; until May 24. Via Nomentana 70, tel. 06.0608

MACRO Future

• Futurismo Manifesto 100*100; until May 17. • Italian genius Now. Back to Rome; until April 13. Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 06.0608 – every day from 16.00 till 24.00

Palazzo delle Esposizioni

• Darwin 1809-2009; until May 3. • Etruscans, The Ancient Metropoli of Latium; until March 8. • Prague. From One Spring to the Next. 1968-1969; until February 28. • Madre Terra. Photography from National Geographic Italia; until March 29. Via Nazionale 194, tel. 06.39967500

Museo di Roma

“Roma, la magnifica visione” Panoramas of Rome as seen by visitors in the 18th and 19th centuries; until April 19. Piazza San Pantaleo 10, tel. 06.0608.

TEATRO DELL’OPERA Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7 tel. 06.48160255 11-22 Feb. Sleeping Beauty – Ballet Conductor Marzio Conti, with Carla Fracci

EQUILIBRIO – Festival of New Dance The world of contemporary dance featuring some of the biggest names on the international scene and up and coming artists from a host of countries, offering a startling range of cultural, geographical and expressive diversity. The programme includes special events of which only some are listed below. For full programme details contact: Auditorium – Parco della Musica Viale Pietro de Coubertin 30 Infoline: tel. 0680241281 www.auditorium.com 6-24 February

21., 23. and 24. Mar. Sala Santa Cecilia Beethoven: Mass in C major – Orchestra dell’Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia, conductor Fabio Luisi 26. Feb. Auditorium – Parco della Musica Schönberg: Pierrot Lunaire conductor Flavio Emilio Scogna 7., 8. and 9. Mar. Auditorium – Parco della Musica Beethoven: 5th Symphony – Orchestra dell’Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia conductor Valery Gergiev

Istituzione Università dei Concerti

Scuderie del Quirinale

Futurismo. Avanguardia – Avanguardie; 20 February–24 May. Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 06.39967500

National Modern Art Gallery (GNAM)

17-18. Feb. Teatro Studio 21:00 Club Guy & Roni: Poetic Disaster Italian Premiere

Cy Twombly, the first major retrospective in Italy; 5 March–24 May. Via delle Belle Arti, 31, tel. 06.3221579

19-20. Feb. Sala Petrassi 21.00 Alain Platel/Fabrizio Cassol Les Ballets C de la B: PITIÉ!

Museo del Corso

20-21. Feb. Teatro Studio 19.00 EQUILIBRIO PRIZE ROMA 2009

Museo Carlo Bilotti

21. Feb. Sala Petrassi 21.00 Cardini – Giovannini: Luogo comune – Pausa Paradiso WINNERS EQUILIBRIO PRIZE 2008 World Premiere

Refettorio Vanvitelliano

22. Feb. Teatro Studio 21.00 New European Dance – In collaboration with Aerowaves

Golden Age of Dutch Art shines in Rome; until February 15. Via del Corso 320, tel. 06.67862098 100 Giorgio de Chirico metaphysical drawings; until April 19. Viale Fiorello La Guardia (Aranciera di Villa Borghese) tel. 06.0608 Opening to the public for the first time: 18th-century portrait painter Gregorio Guglielmi; until March 15. Via Dei Portoghesi 12, tel. 06.6829436

17. Feb. Sala Petrassi 21.00 Rhys Chatham: A Secret Rose – for 100 electric guitars

28. Feb. 17.30 Mahler: 5th Symphony – Orchestra del Teatro dell’Opera, conductor Kazushi Ono

22. Feb. Sala Sinopoli 21.00 PMJO (Parco della Musica Jazz Orchestra) presents Mike Gibbs “The Time has Come”

10. Mar. 20.30 Berlin Comedian Harmonists

28. Feb. Sala Sinopoli 21.00 Kocani Orkestar: “The Ravished Bird” 03. Mar. Sala Petrassi 21.00 Marc Ribot “Guitar Solo 1” 04. Mar. Sala Petrassi 21.00 “Moondog” – Music by Moondog performed by PMJO 07. Mar. Teatro Studio 21.00 “Three Voices” – Music by Morton Feldman, Joan La Barbara, vocalist

Bruno Munari, retrospective on one of the 20th century’s most interesting Italian artists; until March 22. Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 06.0608.

Via della Conciliazione 4 info. 800904560, tickets: 899500055 15., 16. Feb. Tchaikovsky: Slav March – Orchestra Sinfonica di Roma, conductor Bojan Sudjic 22., 23. Feb. Beethoven: Violin Concerto op. 61 – Orchestra Sinfonica di Roma, conductor Francesco La Vecchia violin: Francesco Manara 1., 2. Mar. Berlioz: Le Carnevale Romain – Orchestra Sinfonica di Roma, conductor Francesco La Vecchia

Casa del Jazz Viale di Porta Ardeatina, 55 tel. 06.704731

I concerti al Quirinale

Alexanderplatz Via Ostia, 9 tel. 06.39742171

Palazzo del Quirinale, Cappella Paolina Classical Music concert every Sunday, 12.00 Piazza del Quirinale tel. 06.46991

Peter Pan – Musical Gran Teatro, Via di Tor di Quinto 69 tel. 06.45496305; 11-15 February

Museo di San Salvatore in Lauro

Visions of the Grand Tour by Russian visitors to Italy (1640-1880), 60 works in collaboration with the Hermitage; until February 22.

Hair – The Tribal Love Rock Musical Gran Teatro, Via di Tor di Quinto 69 tel. 06.45496305; 18-22 February

Capitoline Museums

• Sévres, 1920/1980 The conquest of modernity; until March 8. • Theo by Richard Avedon; until March 1. Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 06.0608.

THE BEST JAZZ CLUBS Auditorium Conciliazione

MUSICALS & SHOWS

Museo dell’Ara Pacis

23-24. Feb. Sala Petrassi, 21.00 Pockemon Crew: C’est ça la vie?!

CLASSICAL MUSIC The programme includes concerts and events of which only some are listed below. For full programme details contacts below.

Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia AUDITORIUM – Parco della Musica Viale Pietro de Coubertin 30 Infoline: tel. 0680241281 www.auditorium.com

14. Feb. Teatro Studio 21.00 Dialogo – Giovanni Hidalgo & Horacio Hernandez (12)

Università La Sapienza – Aula Magna Lungotevere Flaminio 50 tel. 06.3610051

11. Feb. Sala Petrassi 21.00 Anne Teresa de Keersmaeker – Rosas 14. Feb. Sala Petrassi 21.00 Linga – Kiss me Goodnight Italian Premiere

13. Feb. Teatro Studio 21.00 M.I.T Meet in Town: Mouse on Mars live – Mokadelic live

Oasis – Concert Palalottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport (EUR) info: www.ticktone.it; 20 February

Big Mama Vicolo di San Francesco a Ripa, 18 tel. 06.5812551 Gregory’s Jazz Club Via Gregoriana 54/a tel. 06.6796386 Fonclea Via Crescenzio 82a tel. 06.6896302 Dimmidisi Via dei Volsci 126B tel. 06.4461855 Cotton Club Via Bellinzona 7 tel. 06.97615246 Bebop Jazz Club Via Giuseppe Giulietti 14 tel. 340.5560112 The Place Via Alberico 27/29 tel. 06.68307137

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STAZIONE I IO I O D D A UDI CLA V V VIGILI S. P. IE VI OL O TAXI IA TAXI .M OR POLI CAVAL A VEMIA ER M VI DEL FUOCO NE LOACCAD MORTAROMONTE A TERMINI DEL LG. VIC ET S. LUCA UD IAO A FONTANA LG. SC PALAZZO DELLE VIMINALE I PR RVCI RO DI MONTE A CHIG A D VILLA I ESPOSIZIONI V PR CAVALLO VI E SM EP V IA PALAZZO VIA M RO A PERFETTI AL IN P. IN LLE UNIVERSITA' VI AR FORET CARPEGNA ST IN CI PALAZZO DE I A GREGORIANA A SA ISTITUTO N IS IR TAXI PE TAN CA DEL QUIRINALE TAXI FON EVI DELLA CONSULTA E NAZIONALE TA P. LA QU LE NE DI TR OR E A O V C M A . STATISTICA T P. MA I T Z ZAR ILOTTASORDI A RI V AR VI VINO AS RM ON TEATRO LA EO P TARI CROCIFE CROCIFERI P. A N ZI SA MINISTERO LE VI S N I PT M V AP TREVI MU LIME P. DELL'OPERA A SABIN GIARDINI LA NA PA DELL’INTERNO ON IL A E O LE MOD L LI SCANDERBEG I ATT LI TA LA DEL E L PIAZZA GL INAA MUR E O I V L D TO IA M ME TAXI QUIRINALE P. O G ESQUILINO E V C. VI N DE DELL VILLA BABUCCIO PT ES IA MI COLONNA O TRA ZA QUIRINALE QUER A RITA NIA PL. A I L N E A EN PALAZZO VI AM HETT BE VI AL EIGLIINGH LG. VI BANCA VIMINALE SISTO V AC VI A TEATRO MING G I ROSPIGLIOSI A R AR O RU P EN À DI DD'ITALIA VVF QUIRINO ELLA PALLAVICINI T I BRAZZÀ SALITA I A P. N M IL STAZIONE N DO AG GI M VI VIGILI CATI A P. U V E I N ' L E O L T I IA VIA ALAZZO MONTE LA PORTA A FANTI L V VI DEL FUOCO AP FRASCHCAVALLO LI TERMINI P. DEL DE ECCIA OLONNA A FONTANA TT SAN A OL PALAZZO DELLE ORATORIO TAXI VI RO DI MONTE REVIMINALE I CARAVITA IV EO LORENZO DEP. ESPOSIZIONI AGGIO INA VI PR CAVALLO VI SM ACQUARIO N NO RIA M A PR RT A ATA VIA IN E P. IN S. MA UNIVERSITA' RA S. N I MAR IA E H O CI IBU PALAZZO TI I VE TAXI GREGORIANA T RD ECC ISTITUTO S P O MAG P CONSULTA DELLA QUIRINALE DEL GIOR A C E III TAXI E S. E S NAZIONALE P. MP.INE VI UF O VC. MAZZARI M VI TRE C STATISTICA PILOTTA A NO E S. MARC AR VI A LG. N A C VIAELLO RM VI ERNA A LI VA O LI SPL. MINISTERO LE A PANISP PT MAGNANAPOLI AL OSTO CCAR SC AO VILLA FETTURA PA DELL’INTERNO S. A P VA H S P A E I TIBURTINO ALDOBRANDINI P. PALAZZO CA PIAZZA LATA ANN LG. APOLI ODESCALCHI AM RL IOV RTO CIMARRA PORTA A GIO RO MAGNAN ANGELICUM S. GUALBE O ESQUILINO CL ED O TR VIA VIA AT VILLA G EM ANOF S. LORENZO A PT ES EO ZA P. LM COLONNA EN R Q O PALAZZO PL. A O UI A TIN LG. S. SANTI APOSTOLI PALAZZO DORIA VI VI LIN SF NALE VI BANCA AL VIMI SISTO V A ROSPIGLIOSI PAMPHILI PR A TU S. VITO O R B B ALFONSO O U M PALLAVICINI ER D'ITALIA P. I NA P IO IN P.RA TI G DI ARCO T N G U C B IO N LIA O ZINGARIRASCHE IP VIA PALAZZO PORTA FANTITI MCO AP S AM GALIENO CI F LI E COLONNA TT SAN I NO E A OL TAXI PT RT LI A I LG. IORE ZINGARI EO LORENZO MA IV P. PI MAGG TIN ACQUARIO S. N NO ARIA BRANCACCIO TA P. A IA M A V E UR S. RA ZZ S. MARIA N P. VI P. LANZA CASA DEI LG. P. NA IISBTEIR A I DO N T VE V TAXI SUBU A T A O A TIB R RRA A D IN B CAVALIERI DEL MAGGIORE VISCONTI VIA STATUTO MA NTI LEON A CO P. IAGRILLO I S. I MAR V S I E N I TINO O . I M V M O EDI I VENOSTA FORO DI UF RODI VI ISCVITIA TRE C EZIA PROVINCIA VI A A S EL C AI MONTI INA E PLEB VEN A LG. IN PR A ROMA DIAUGUSTO VI IN VIA BACCCVIA ERNA VI PALAZZO OUR VA DE PL. A PANISP IN AM PALAZZO TT MAGNANAPOLI CAV OL FORO DI SC I VILLA CI OR HE BRANCACCIO TAXI NERVA PREFETTURA PA VENEZIA F ED I TI VI TIBURTINO PE N ALDOBRANDINI N P. CA O FORO DI I N OR I O VA TO EO A LG. P. PT S. RRA I APOL M MUSEO ARTE P. CESARE A O AN R I DE IM R N I C A GIARDINO PORTA G AG E A LO M ANGELICUM MADONNA S. UALB T CL O TDONN OALA ORIENTALE IM ORMA A A LG. F VI P VI A ESQ E I R UIL G UM EM INO CALIPARI S. LORENZO .D PE DI LORETO M A M VIA VIA LIO ZA S. FR AN LEOPARDI EN RI P. NO VIA BE OLV COLONNA SIG AL OR TIN P. O IA BASILICA LG. S. UE RT IA SAN MARCO ON TRAIANA I PR SF SE AL LL AURELIA A NC PR O IETR INC TU S. VITO TU BE ALFONSO LE I TT BUO S. P INCOLI NE IP P. I A R I LG. 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T CHI O R TI MON O EO A RI OR C PTVIALE OPP I ARTE MUSEO P. CESARE PALAZZO DANTE GIARDINO P E E OD I NNA DE IO P. M LA DO A 'S NUOVO OR O MA ORIENTALE I C AG LG. M ESQ EM P. LG. V IA UIL AR O DI PA A UM INO CALIPARI GIAR I G . V S. FRANCESCA PEIMP R DINO R V IA T IO F V IA S. PEIKOV AN LEOPARDI RE B PE CAMPIDOGLIO R E O NA C TEMPIO DI VIA ROMA IGLIO COLSLE P. BEGUM ER VI L. V IALRIA CASTORE E POLLUCE UE LG. P. O IAN BASILICA A CON IO PR BO SE TO AURELIA ENE I LI S.MARIA ULL N OPP LE AGNESI IETR LI INC V RE TTA V EN TT BUO S. P INCODOM P. IA FEL NOVA T RI SA IPE II US ANE LG. ERE P. E V ICE V IA CASA DELLE N SALE LF I E GIP IN A CAFFARELLI N E ER AUREA VESTALI NIC UG RICCI VIA FE FRA RIA ARCO OM SETT E TAXI E O P. U PARCO N VIA VSI. RR LA CAMPIDOGLIO PRENESTINA FORO A RUPE I PA IO SETTIMIO ARCO C CA LI A SALE PIAZZA DEL CO SAL O UC GI CA TARPEA PORTA MAGGIORE LILE SS TRAIANO LU TEMPIO DI R EL PI VI RL ROMANO VIALE SERAPIDE DI TITO CI AL MONTE MP PIO LOS V TEATRO GA LG. F FA PL. OLI ZZ O VENERE E ROMA AC O CA RAM ARCO DI OP E PALATINO DINI ID TEMACE T IA C A A CA C Q FF PA BRANCACCIO ER U A V T SETTIMIO OR TT UA IA VL. C TEMPIO OG GATTI LABICANO I DOMUS AURE P LE VIA AR NO I V IA A RO MI B AL DI SATURNO LIO TEC EL SAC R UG M LE GI ER RA INE V LI ILLA BASILICA G ER US RA E S. ETRI BE US VIA ND CAR IA VI MU O DI JULIA AU V ELE M A TI ORTI ACOLOSSEO VIA CE LVE EM R EA E G RA ACO LG. OL TO DE D E AT FARNESIANI IO VE P ARCO DI T VI A N V D O B TI PO R N RE NU ER EI POLVERIERA RTIE TEMPIO COSTANTINO A ECE ONGHI BASILICA R N M A DE I TA EL CRE MO DI GIOVE DI MASSENZIO P. N SCIM FO MT . S. T V IA LE O R TI E E BEN I OPP VIA RI EO VIA IAL DANTE I V V I IO A P. DO MA SAN CA CA VILLARI QUI RO I R NTI G LG. M N V O A ESCA GIAR S IL G VI S. FRANC R IA DINO IOR PE O SA PEIKOV A P ET TEMPIO DI IN E IA ROMANA C RI V N GE COLLE P. BEGUM L. V TIL A CASTORE E POLLUCE AL IA LG. P. CASA DI CASA DI RU E NE BO STA I E NAARIA OPP NS.M S AGN IO E ROMOLO LIVIA S ESI V R T . B P. S. CLEMENTE E V EN TA I A SA FEL NOVA DOMUS VI P. GIO ERI I Q E F IC V U VICO JUGARIO CASA DELLE L L R O ATTR IA E VA CONSOLAZIONE L A B IC A EE EM A LI AUR VESTALI N A O A EA N N ROM IC E VIA TAXI OLA NI P. S. M C A ZZA DEL C E PA CA PALAZZO SAL VIA ARCO CPAIAP ILEI OL PORTA MAGGIORE SS LU F VI RL O VIALE SERAPIDE DI TITO MONTETEMPIO DI GAL OS AL MONTE BUCIMAZZA PL. DEIIENFLAVI ZZ VENERE E ROMA V AC O ILI PALATINO IA AT IN C QU CELIO V IA D'AF OMUS AUREA LABICANO RO D VIA VILLA A T DEGLI MUSEO I RICA V IA SAC R UG M CE LE MAR G ER US RA STRUMENTI MUSICALI S. T WOLKONSKI VIA CO NI O I M O RDIA R I A L I S E E CO I ALETM UR N UR COLOSSEOAU B V ORTI VIA ES EM I E MUSEO TDELLA MISER EARCO EA TI AT REL FARNESIANI SO A ARCO DI ARDB O EO AN OR IO P. LA TI ONG A LE FANTERIA O V IA COSTANTINO ED RI NU I HI A VIA PA AN EL CRE AM IN SS VILL SKI SCIM PASS. S. GIO A EI . E N ANN V. DECO B L V O IA E V K A N IA IA QU LLATO I IA VI AVO VIA A SAN MANO WOL S V N I L L A AR VI A I O QUI T NTINO TT MPIO DI B RO A RO NCA FON OVIC SA VELA TAXI BIA ORTUNA LUD IA N GE ICE V IA TIL P. FEL VIRILE CASA DI CASA DI ARCO DI RU STA E SCALA NNAP. S S. ROMOLO LIVIA GIANO P. DE S. CLEMENTE IBE SA TEMPIO V P. G SANTA ANA QUA IOV I STADIO DI LE TAXI DI VESTA BOCCA DELLA VERITÀ L A B IC IO CELIMONT TTRO S. ANASTASIA A O L AN A M NN DOMIZIANO P. OSPEDALE P. E ARL VIA C M I C IA CE CLIVPALAZZO V IA E SS.GIOVANNI MILITARE O SCA S. GIOVANNI V PALAZZO C RC E A O URO PO D E MONTE VIAL S N E PAOLO LATERANO CELIO I HI IN LATERANO P. DEI FLAVI N BELVEDERE P. E VIA TO R OZZ IN O CELIO T M A ROMOLO S D R 'AFR S. GREGORIO S. P A PORTA VILLA AM C G ER L IC A E REMO E A BOCCA DELLA L OL MAR LE S. GIOVANNI LG. OC O V IA C WOLKONSKI CA VERITA' CO VNIAI M O E II RD SE RO AN AMLAT N BER VI SANITA' A IRC INA I CE A ER SS EF TI SS O L AD ARD EO AN OSPEDALEURELIO E ST OR P. LA PL. MILITARE A LE LG. O VAIRA BATTISTERO ED IAL S. OSPEDALE IM V A IA M A VIA ADDOLORATA PA UGO A PORTA NA SS HARRIS VILL SKI S. GIOVANNI O . LA MALFA N ANN S. GIOVANNI S. GIOVANNI OIA PL. LKO QU V IA O O A A N A W I CI N SPEZIA V AT IN LATERANO VI OS MA TALA A IC R N APPIO T C V O A RO N F O CO OSPIZIO TAXI BIA LUD ICE FEL M ADDOLORATA SCALA A P. DE SS BA SANTA IM M I CELIMONTANA STADIO DI V TAXI A IA PONTIFICIO O LO DOMIZIANO P. LG. OSPEDALE P. CAR TA ATENEO CE C VIA LIVO SC SS.GIOVANNI SOCIETA' MILITARE RA S. GIOVANNI PALAZZO P. RC VI E AURO DO LATERANENSE NT VIAL E PAOLO LATERANO GEOGRAFICA CELIO PORTA I HI A IN LATERANO P. NSE BELVEDERE P. ON O T OZZ TRE A ROMOLOCAPENA ITALIANA RO RM S. GREGORIO S. P PORTA CAS LA M E G E AVENTINO AO E REMO MO ROSETO L E S L A L S. GIOVANNI I LG. A A DECENNIAO OC V CA O VI VILLA M CI V RD RO ’ER SANITA' NCOMUNALE AN AM A A RC INA CENT U EF LL CELIMONTANA A SS O L AD A OSPEDALE ST FA LE PL. E MILITARE VI LG. S S. OSPEDALE AR BATTISTERO IM VIA A ADDOLORATA UGO PORTA VALLE MURCI A HARRIS I S. GIOVANNI O V GIARDINO LA MALFA S. GIOVANNI S. GIOVANNI NA PL. I PARCO LATERANO BI CI D IMPROTA VIA VI EZIA A IN LATERANO R SAVELLO APPIO S AL LA SP LG. CO A OSPIZIO PL. E ELL AMBA AT M ADDOLORATA E RR IPPONIO A E A FO N T F ARADAM SLG. FAO B SI CA VI M VITTIME RO AM A PONTIFICIO O LG. TERRORISMO TE RIA TA P. ATENEO RM SOCIETA' RA PL. V P. LG. LATERANENSE PORTA IA E NT GEOGRAFICA PORTA ARRIGO VII O METRONIO O I METRONIA PO CAPENA N ITALIANA NT O CO D E V M C LUN IA G I A M AS PARCO DECENNIA O VILLA R CI A G A V ’E N O LA LLI P. PORTA CAPENA T A U N A LL CELIMONTANA A GIUNONE BR SA FA E VI AN O REGINA IC CA A VI EN GIARDINO CA M P. I R LATERANO D IMPROTA V TEM AC TEMPIO ZI IA PIO ® STADIO LG. AL LE UZ DIAN DIRDIANA LA A PL. DELLE TERME A TEL LA IN AMBA PE RA N E R IPPONIO P. FO N T ARADAM FE TO LG. FAO A N I A S. PRISCA A VITTIME VI AN TERRORISMO TE EL P. M RM PL. PORTA E PARCO P. METRONIO T METRONIA PO REMURIA A PL. EGERIO F TA NT A N D E LU VI A CL I NUMA TERME OS . PARCO AU NG GA GI P NA DI CARACALLA . D POMPILIO O L PORTA CAPENA IO I S I LIA A O NZ B OS L PO R A E. IA O I V L LG ICI CA RA ZI VIA CA ® STADIO UZ A LL DELLE TERME ER IN AN A P N S

10 NOT ONLY ROME Art s

g ui d e :

e x h i b i t s

It a l y

The following is a city-by-city guide to some of Italy’s top art exhibitions Palazzo Reale

ASCOLI Galleria d’Arte Contemporanea

GENOA Palazzo Ducale

Galleria d’Arte Contemporanea: ‘Sedendo e Mirando’, 130 landscapes by famed cartoonist Tullio Pericoli; March 21-September 13.

’Lucio Fontana Light and Colour’; until February 15.

BOLOGNA Museo d’Arte Moderna (MAMBO) Museo d’Arte Moderna (MAMBO): More than 100 works by Giorgio Morandi in one of world’s biggest ever retrospectives on Bolognese artist, sent from Metropolitan Museum in New York to Morandi’s home town; until April 13.

Museo d’Arte Contemporanea di Villa Croce Shozo Shimamoto 1950-2008; until March 8.

LUCCA Palazzo Ducale

Rene’ Magritte and the Mystery of Nature; around 100 paintings featuring Magritte’s signature apples, blue skies and birds; one of Italy’s largest-ever Magritte events; until March 29

Same venue Futurism 1909-2009 Velocità + Arte + Azione; from February 6 until June 7.

ROVERETO MART Gallery Futurism 100: Illuminations, AvantGardes Compared, Italy, Germany And Russia: first major show this year marking 100th anniversary of Futurism; works by Marinetti, Kandinsky, Der Sturm, Chagall, Klee, August Macke, Franz Marc; until June 7.

ROVIGO Palazzo Roverella

Show marking 300 years from birth of Grand Tour portraitist Pompeo Batoni (1708-1787); until March 29.

Art Deco in Italy 1919-1939; January 31-June 28. A portrait by Galileo Chini

Giacomo Balla: War (1916)

Fondazione Stelline

BRESCIA Museo di Santa Giulia

FT Marinetti=Futurismo; Until June 7.

Arnaldo Pomodoro Foundation Great Works 1972-2008’; until March 22.

Giovanni Guareschi, tribute to Don Camillo writer on 100th anniversary of birth shows 70 cartoons he penned for satirical magazine Bertoldo under Fascist regime; until February 28.

Fondazione Mazzotta Ethnic art from Peggy Guggenheim collection; until February 22.

CASERTA Reggia Women, Landscapes and Impressionism; major works from Pavia galleries; until March 29.

FERRARA Palazzo dei Diamanti Turner and Italy; until February 22.

FLORENCE Palazzo Medici-Ricciardi Raphael’s Madonna del Cardellino (Madonna of the Goldfinch) on show after eight-year restoration; until March 1.

FORLI’ Complesso Monumentale San Domenico Canova, The Classical Ideal, Sculpture and Painting; until June 21.

Museo Poldi Pezzoli

Santa Maria della Scala museum

Japanese ‘netsuke’ mini-sculptures from four Italian collections and Stuttgart’s Linden Museum; until March 15.

Art, Genius, Madness: 300 works including Van Gogh, Ernst, Dix, Guttuso, Ligabue; until May 25.

Palazzo della Ragione

Cardinal Jean-Francois-Joseph

MILAN Pinacoteca di Brera Four famed Caravaggios united for gallery’s 200th anniversary year: two versions of Supper At Emmaus (1601 and 1606); The Musicians (1595) and Boy With A Basket Of Fruit (1593); until March 29. Caravaggio: Supper At Emmaus (1601)

SIENA

TREVISO

Extreme Beauty in Vogue; from March 3; until May 10.

Casa dei Carraresi

Forma

Canaletto, Venice and its Splendours; until April 5.

Mario Giacomelli; until March 22.

TURIN Palazzo Mazzonis

NAPLES Archaeological Museum Herculaneum: Three Centuries of Discoveries; until April 2009.

PALERMO Palazzo dei Normanni The Fantastic World of Picasso, 66 works; until March 8.

New Oriental Art Museum (MAO) opened on December 5 with large Chinese collection that belonged to late Fiat chief Gianni Agnelli and Japanese masterpieces from San Paolo foundation, as well as rare Indian, Khmer pieces.

Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli 164 works from the famous Bischofberger collection; until March 1.

PESCARA Ex Aurum

Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo

CROMOFOBIE. Percorsi del bianco e del nero nell’arte italiana contemporanea; until May 31.

Adel Abdessemed – The God’s Wings; until May 18.

PONTASSIEVE Sala delle Colonne

Palazzi Bricherasio

49 paintings and sculptures by Antonio Ligabue including celebrated Self Portrait With Dog; until June 7.

La Venaria Reale

Akhenaton: Pharaohs of the Sun; 27 February-14 June.

Egypt’s Sunken Treasures; until May 31.

Roma-Movida

Rome’s eternal appeal

Concerts, shows, special events, discos and nightclubs to suit all tastes. Nightlife in the Italian capital offers something for everyone. See pg. 13

Rome is one of the cities most often captured in films; it is an immense, monumental set used by great Italian and international directors. See pg. 14

Futurism 1909-2009

to the future ack

Luigi Russolo: Revolt

Filippo Tommaso Marinetti’s futurist manifesto, published 100 years ago this month, launched one of the most brilliant and disturbing episodes in 20th-century art. { Nicolas Stark }

n “The Founding and Manifesto of Futurism” Marinetti expressed a passionate loathing of everything old, especially political and artistic tradition. The Futurists admired speed, technology, youth and violence, the car, the aeroplane and the industrial city, all that represented the technological triumph of humanity over nature, and they were passionate nationalists. “We want to sing the love of danger, the habit of energy and rashness,” began the 11-point manifesto (published in Le Figaro, Paris February 20th 1909), which centres on “eternal, omnipresent speed”. These volatile dandies sought to shock the world into a modern, machine-age utopia with the artist as hero. Marinetti exalted violence and conflict and called for the sweeping repudiation of traditional cultural, social and political values and the destruction of cultural institutions such as museums and libraries. The manifesto’s rhetoric was passionately bombastic; its tone was aggressive and

FutuRoma To celebrate the 100th anniversary of the birth of Futurism, from 20 February FutuRoma will offer a wide and varied range of special events. Here are just some of the top-line appointments: Countdown from 15-19 February il museo del louvre bookshop-gallery, via della Reginella Palco-oscenico futurista. L’artista messa a nudo Five days of performance art leading up to the anniversary Information: il museo del louvre, Via della Reginella 26-28, 00186 Roma Tel. 06.68807725 www.ilmuseodellouvre.com Principal events for 20 February Scuderie del Quirinale: special gala inauguration, open until 1am, of the major exhibition FUTURISMO: AVANGUARDIA-AVANGUARDIE.

Organised in cooperation with the “Musée National d’Art Moderne/Centre Georges Pompidou” Paris and the “Tate Modern” of London. Until 24 May Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 06.39967500 18.00 Macro Future: inauguration of the exhibition FUTURISMO MANIFESTO 100x100 dedicated to the language and style of Futurist Manifestos across the arts. Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4 18.30 Piazza Orazio Giustiniani: DA MACRO A MICRO: ROMA CHIAMA PARIGI a special live link-up with the Paris headquarters of French daily newspaper “Le Figaro” which published Filippo Tommaso Marinetti’s first Futurist Manifesto 100 years ago.

decried the past (let’s burn down the libraries, flood the inflammatory and was deliberately intended to spark pubmuseums, take hatchets to the art galleries!) and trumpetlic anger and amazement, to arouse controversy and to ed the new, especially machinery (hurrah for cars, aircraft, attract widespread attention. Futurist events were often urban crowds, bombs and the electric light bulb!). happenings that finished in chaos or brawls. Painters in the movement did have a serious intent beThe pioneer futurists were true to their word about the yond Marinetti’s bombast, however. Their works featured glorification of war: “We will glorify war – the world’s only rampant colours and violent energy, extolling the merits hygiene – militarism, patriotism... beautiful ideas worth of a new, technologically advanced age. dying for, and scorn for woman.” The futurists’ representation of forms in motion influSo when the First World War began, the futurists were enced many painters, including Marcel Duchamp and ardent propagandists for Italian intervention. That war Robert Delaunay, and such movements as Cubism and claimed the lives of their two greatest talents, the archiRussian Constructivism. tect Antonio Sant’Elia, whose designs for “La Città Nuova” Although the most significant results of the movement (“The New City”) project created a soaring vision of the were in the visual arts and poetry, Futurism tried to wage possibilities of modern architecture, and the sculptor/ war on every cultural front. In addition to Futurist paintpainter Umberto Boccioni, whose work pushed towards a ing and poetry, there was Futurist theatre, Futurist clothstriving, twisting art of movement. ing, Futurist typography, Futurist music and even FuturThe Futurists wanted a human sacrifice to save ist cuisine. their country’s soul. Massacre was welcomed as Futurism was one of the broadest, most encompassa beneficent purge, “a necessary holocaust”. ing artistic movements of the 20th century, although it It would be precisely the Futurist’s idea of a tends to be denied the importance it deserves because national unity forged through heroic collective of its political associations. Futurism influenced many effort that Mussolini would exploit in his creaother twentieth century art movements, including tion of fascism. Art Deco, Vorticism, Constructivism, Surrealism After the First World War Marinetti formed a and Dada. futurist political party that was quickly absorbed With the death of its leader Marinetti in 1944 into the nascent Fascist movement. He remained an the movement effectively came to an end, active Fascist for the life-span of the movement, and Futurism was, like science fiction, in following Mussolini to his Fascist puppet part overtaken by ‘the future’. state, the Republic of Salò. But the ideals of futurism remain as That the Futurism movement did get significant elements of moditself tangled up with Fascism is beyond ern Western cultural life; the dispute, though not all the Futurists emphasis on youth, speed, signed up for Il Duce. Umberto Bocciopower and technology findWhat most of the Futurists did buy ni: Unique Forms ing expression in much of into without much reservation was of Continuity in modern commercial cinema Marinetti’s double-barrelled rhetoSpace (1913) and culture. ¶ ric about the modern world, which

19.30 Palazzo Ruspoli PRESENTISM, TIME AND SPACE IN THE LONG NOW, an installation by British artist and musician Brian Eno specially created for the Rome celebrations of Futurism’s centenary. Via del Corso 418, tel. 06.6832179

21.15 and 23.00 Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina: SIMULTANEOUS VISIONS, directed by Alessandra Vanzi and Marco Solari, a performance based on energy, simultaneity and surprise, featuring a large group of artists working in theatre, dance, music, video and the visual arts.

Brian Eno

19.30 Piazza Colonna: performance: EXTREME PAINTING – artist Giuliano del Sorbo will paint a huge canvas draped over the facade of Palazzo Wedekind, accompanied by a performance of “Hymn to Life” (op. 30) by futurist composer Francesco Pratella by French musicians Duo Diaghilev.

22.00 and 23.30 Galleria Alberto Sordi: WOMEN, SPEED, DANGER, by Francesco Sala, Viola Porcaro and Edoardo Sylos Labini, a neo-futurist theatrical work set on an early 20th century steam locomotive, inspired by three lesser-known written works by Marinetti. Piazza Colonna tel. 06.69190769 21.15 onwards Piazza Venezia and Piazza del Popolo: the two piazzas will be linked by light. NEW IRIDESCENCE by director and visual artist Giancarlo Cauteruccio will feature a light and sound show in Piazza Venezia while Piazza del Popolo will be bathed in a spectacular dance of light for Onde di luce 1909-2009.

Edoardo Sylos Labini

XII Galleria Oredaria

Space for contemporary art

Space and light. 400 square metres of luminous exhibition space in what was once a factory manufacturing mattresses. A passion for contemporary art, a high professional seriousness in managing artists and their work; and an exquisitely charming welcome for all who enter the Galleria Oredaria from its director Marina Covi Celli. { Aniko Horvath }

alleria Oredaria opened in 2003 in via Reggio Emilia, just along the street from Macro (the publicly owned Museum of Contemporary Art: Roma). In just a few short years the Oredaria has become a reference point in the Italian capital for collectors and ordinary enthusiasts of contemporary art. The exhibition space is stunning: arches and massive columns reach gracefully upwards and the gallery is flooded with natural light. It has hosted exhibitions by some of the most prestigious names in contemporary Italian art, including Michelangelo Pistoletto (who created 50 works specifically inspired by the gallery’s form and structure), Gilberto Zorio and Alfredo Pirri, and is currently featuring works by the young Israeli artist Gilad Efrat. – Rome is an open-air treasure house of ancient art; what is the city’s relationship with contemporary art? – Rome is such an overwhelmingly historical rich city that only recently has a growing interest in contemporary art – from both public and private institutions –

Galleria Oredaria's director Marina Covi Celli photo: courtesy oredaria arti contemporanee

Maurizio Mochetti: Ombra della sera (2008) photo: courtesy oredaria arti contemporanee

become clear. Major new exhibition spaces like Macro and the imminent opening of MAXXI (the first national museum of arts for the 21st century), important events like “The Road to Contemporary Art” (a festival involving galleries across Rome which this year runs from 2-5 April) have all raised public awareness and stimulated interest in contemporary art. – You’ve just come back from the contemporary art fair in Bologna, one of Italy’s most important. Has the credit crunch affected the art market in Italy? – Without doubt the market has slowed down. But that’s not necessarily a bad thing. It helps to weed out the less interesting work so that only art of only genuine quality emerges. The Italian market is less exposed to the effects of the economic crisis: the big international investment funds are not major operators here and our collectors are private individuals. For this reason, too, prices have remained more or less unchanged, there is little or no speculation. The value of an artist’s

work depends on slow and careful evaluation throughout her or his career. – Where does contemporary Italian art fit into the international scene? – Unlike in many other countries, contemporary Italian artists benefit from little or no promotion. Because of the lack of official support – and financing – Italian artists travel rarely. They have less contact on an international level and are therefore more influenced by our national artistic climate. Of course there are exceptions. Some of our most successful artists, like Maurizio Cattelan, live abroad. Or there are those who have nevertheless managed to carve out major international profiles like representatives of the Arte Povera movement: Pistoletto, Mario

Schifano and the movement’s “founder” Mario Merz. Our next exhibition, which opens on 26 February, will be dedicated to Merz’s life and work. It will be the first since his death in 2003. – The Galleria Oredaria has made a name for itself because it does far more than simply organise exhibitions. – The work of a gallery and its staff in no way begins and ends with the exhibition itself. We take special pride in publishing informative catalogues so that in a certain respect the exhibition lives on after it’s over. We also take care to cultivate an ongoing working relationship with all our artists. My aim has always been to stimulate wider public interest and involvement, both among dedicated art lovers and the simply curious. For example, for the Merz exhibition we’ve also organised a conference on art and mathematics. Another upcoming special event will be an auction to raise money for charity which will be held in the middle of February. ¶

Galleria Oredaria – contemporary arts Currently on show: Gilad Efrat – Common Place Via Reggio Emilia 22-24 tel: 06.97601689 www.oredaria.it

Gilberto Zorio: Cuoio su giavellotti (2007) photo: courtesy oredaria arti contemporanee

Italian bookshelf The Book of Unholy Mischief by Nicolas Stark

If you’re visiting Italy you probably like Italian food. If you like fine food, you’ll love The Book of Unholy Mischief. This first novel by American author Elle Newmark is set in Venice on the eve of the Renaissance, when the Serene Republic is at the height of its power. It is a city of excess: beauty vies with squalor, abject poverty lives side by side with extravagant wealth.

Rife with vice and ridden with corruption, Venice is governed by a clique of autocrats, whose enforcers, the black-cloaked secret police, or Cappe Nere, rule the city through torture and fear. The book’s hero and narrator is a penniless street urchin, Luciano, who survives by his wits. Caught stealing a pomegranate by the Doge’s grand chef, he is plucked off the streets and taken back to the palace kitchen to serve as an apprentice. While learning the art of cooking, Luciano quickly finds himself entangled in

the search for a mysterious book said to hold the key to untold power. Rumours suggest the ancient tome offers the secrets of alchemy and a potion to ward off illness and death. Powerful men will stop at nothing to possess it, and those who have it must risk their lives to protect it. Luciano comes to suspect the chef, his maestro, may be concealing vital information. The chef gradually takes Luciano into his confidence until the pair are allies against the dark forces who are desperate to possess the book’s knowledge.

The pair finally find themselves alone and pitted against implacable opponents for whom human lives count as nothing and

power is all. Newmark’s triumph in the The Book of Unholy Mischief lies in her superb recreation of 15th century Venice: the sights and sounds and smells of everyday life, the squalor and the glory, of this unique city at a special time in its history. And when it comes to food, Newmark – whose father is a masterchef – excels. There are lavish descriptions of food and its preparation, as the Doge’s chef patiently instructs Luciano in the culinary arts. “Never forget Luciano,” admonishes the chef, “Animals eat, but men dine.”

As the book races towards its climax, the chef and Luciano will face deadly danger. As they seek to save their lives and preserve the book, it becomes clear that much more is at stake. Truth, love and simple virtues are opposed to tyranny, vice and cruelty. The Book of Unholy Mischief offers a celebration of love, freedom, the courageous defence of new ideas and, above all, the civilising pleasure of creating and sharing fine food. Newmark has served up a deeply satisfying read. Buon appetito!

XIII

oma-Movida

{ Alessandro Mirra }

The city that never sleeps, the party that never ends Concerts, shows, special events, discos and nightclubs to suit all tastes. Nightlife in the Italian capital offers something for everyone.

here are clubs where you might easily glimpse A-list celebs sipping cocktails that would cost a week’s wages but even the more upmarket glam and glitzy joints (with door policy to match) frequently offer evenings when entrance is free. You don’t need loads of money or designer clothes and you too can strut your stuff with the golden boys and girls who turned up in their father’s Ferrari. Here are just a few of Rome’s hottest nightspots. Piper Club (Via Tagliamento 9) one of the most famous clubs in town, the temple of ‘swinging Rome’ since the 60’s. A classic among Roman discos, this huge subterranean Saturday Night Fever-style venue opened in 1965 and has been IN ever since. The club opened in 1965 slap-bang in the middle of Italy’s economic boom and became the first modern disco of its kind in Italy. Originally it was a live music venue and launched many Italian pop stars of the ‘60s, but it also featured internationally renowned names like David Bowie, The Who and Pink Floyd. Now remodeled with state-of-the-art sound and lights, it targets its appeal to a casual, mixedage and modern crowd. Depending on the day of the week you’ll hear underground and house music, as well as rock and disco music from the 1970s. Piper is still going strong.

Piper Club is one of the most famous clubs in Rome

Although Piper is the classic Roman nightspot, there are many places that are trendier. None more so than Cabala (Via dei Soldati 25). On the third floor of a beautiful 15th-century palazzo that’s also home to the Osteria dell’Orso restaurant of super-chef Gualtiero Marchese and a ground-floor piano bar, Cabala is one of the favourite haunts of Rome’s well-heeled, it is luxuriously furnished and has a strict dress policy. The music is mostly house with some chart hits thrown in – but the place rocks and the view over the Tiber is spectacular. This tiny club is uncomfortably packed on weekends, although being a professional soccer player or a model will help you get past the doorman. Probably best to try midweek. Entrance is usually free but you must buy at least one drink: prices from 15 euros. (Closed Sunday and Monday). Cabala is on the third floor of a beautiful 15th-century palazzo Cabala

Art Cafe is probably Rome’s hottest disco at the moment

Art Cafe is far bigger and just as trendy, probably Rome’s hottest disco at the moment. It’s also underground: located at via del Galoppatoio 33 in the Villa Borghese Car Park. Finding the place is not easy and getting in can be even more difficult. Dress code is fashionably chic, door cover expensive. This is where all Rome’s gorgeous young things meet and greet. Even on the special evenings when entrance is free you need to be on the guest list – and prepared to wait in a long line. The music at Art Cafe rocks, and you’ll find a variety of styles – house, dance, revival – in several rooms. Away from the historic centre, we must give a mention to Goa (Via Libetta 13 – Ostiense). This etnically-inspired club was opened around 10 years ago by star Djs Giancarlino and Claudio Coccoluto. The decor is always up to the minute and so is the music. The club regularly features top-line international names behind the console and one memorable night a certain Bono got down to it on the dancefloor. Music ranges from Jungle to Minimal to Tribal to House. Goa is far less chichi chic than Cabala and Art Cafe. Perhaps the Rome disco club with the best international reputation.

Qube (via Portonaccio 212). Is the capital’s biggest underground disco. Friday night the club hosts the Muccassassina – at one time Rome’s most famous and transgressive gay event. Originally a fund-raising evening to support gay rights organisations, Muccassassina attracts gay, lesbian, transgender and straight dancers. This hugely successful club spreads over three floors, including the second-floor chill-out room with sofas and pool tables. Music is House, Black and some commercial. Entrance fee for non-members is 15 euros. ¶

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XIV

rom Roman Holiday to Dear Diary

{ Alessandro Mirra }

Cinema city: Rome’s eternal appeal Rome is one of the cities most often captured in films; it is an immense, monumental set used and often reconstructed in the studios of Cinecittà – by great Italian and international directors. The Eternal City has formed the backdrop to a string of memorable movies.

Anita Ekberg in Federico Fellini’s 1963 masterpiece La Dolce Vita

hink of Rome and cinema and probably two classic movies spring immediately to mind: Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn whizzing around on a Vespa in Roman Holiday (William Wyler, 1953) and the voluptuous Anita Ekberg having a midnight dip in the Trevi fountain with Marcello Mastroianni in Federico Fellini’s 1963 masterpiece La Dolce Vita. In both films the city is far more than just a simple location and is itself a real character. Many other movies have made the most of Rome’s unparalleled beauty and instantly recognisable urban landscape. In Ettore Scola’s bittersweet 1974 comedy-drama We All Loved Each Other So Much (C’eravamo tanto amati) the Spanish Steps form the backdrop for the delightful scene where the ineffectual intellectual played by Stefano Satta Flores attempts to teach Stefania Sandrelli the fundamentals of Sergei Eisenstein’s theory of montage in Battleship Potemkin, all the while seducing her, as the hapless love rival Nino Manfredi watches on. Not far from Piazza Navona, between via di Monte Giordano and via dei Coronari, is Palazzo Taverna, the Roman home of Isabel Archer (played by a youthful Nicole Kidman) in Jane Campion’s 1996 version of Henry James’ novel Portrait of a Lady. The city was protagonist when in 1945 Roberto Rossellini evoked Rome’s rags and Resistance in Open City (Roma Città Aperta) and again in Vittorio de Sica’s Bicycle Thieves (Ladri di Bicicletti), which featured a classic crowd moment filmed at the market in Piazza Vittorio. Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere provided the location for the final screen appearance of Rome-born movie legend Anna Magnani. In a cameo appearance, the actress plays herself in Fellini’s 1972 homage to the Eternal City: Roma. Magnani enters the street door of what was her own house, exchanging banter with the off-screen voice of the director. Moving outside the historic centre and returning to La Dolce Vita, a famous scene was shot in the main square of the working-class Don Bosco district, chosen for the similarity of its buildings to the monumental modernist architecture found in Mussolini’s southern suburb of EUR, Piazza Don Bosco, where Fellini filmed the scene with Mastroianni and his photographer friend Paparazzo, was chosen because it was closer to the film’s home studio at Cinecittà. More recently Ferzan Ozpetek, with Ignorant Fairies (Le Fate ignoranti, 2001), showed filmgo-

Dead of Night

Dylan Dog goes to Hollywood { Alessandro Mirra }

After all the American movies which have been filmed on location in Rome, an allItalian character is now off to Hollywood. Dylan Dog, Italy’s biggestselling comic book series featuring the supernatural private eye of the same name, is set to move to the big screen in a movie to be entitled Dead of Night. Shooting is scheduled to begin at the end of March in New Orleans. The film will be directed by Kevin Munroe (Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles) and will star Brandon Routh (Superman, Superman Returns). The choice of Routh for the lead role has not pleased hardcore Dog fans, who wanted to see British actor Rupert Everett in the role. Not only

did Everett star in the first screen version featuring the penniless investigator (the 1994 cult movie Cemetery Man) but he was also the inspiration for Dylan Dog creator Tiziano Sclavi after the writer had seen the gay icon in the 1984 hit Another Country. In Italy, Dylan Dog is a national phenomenon, the comic books selling more than a million copies every month. But he is perhaps little known outside this country. So here’s the factfile. Dylan Dog is a former Scotland Yard detective who left the British police to become a paranormal investigator. Fascinated by fear, he makes it his profession. Accompanied by his faithful sidekick Groucho (who bears

Rupert Everett

an uncanny resemblance to Groucho Marx) Dylan looks into strange cases frequently involving werewolves, vampires, ghosts and other manifestations of the supernatural and occult, although often the true monsters in many of his investigations turn out to be human. The series is mainly set in London, although Dylan occasionally travels elsewhere. The investigator lives at 7 Craven Road (Sclavi’s homage to cult horror director Wes Craven) in a cluttered

Nanni Moretti with Alessandro Gassman in a scene of Quiet Chaos

ers the rarely seen working-class Ostiense district with its massive rusting gasometer and the sprawling General Market. Turkish-born Ozpetek has made his home in Ostiense since the 1970’s. The nearby quarter of Garbatella (see separate article: page 7) played a key role in Dear Diary (Caro Diario) the 1993 box-office hit by one of Italy’s most respected directors, Nanni Moretti. In this gentle comedy actor-director Moretti makes a tour by scooter through a beautiful and virtually deserted Rome in midAugust. His journey begins from Garbatella, which he describes as the favourite quarter of his home city. In last year’s Quiet Chaos (Caos Calmo) Moretti, under the direction of Antonello Grimaldi, moves to the upmarket hilltop villas and tree-shaded avenues of Aventino, where he spends much of the film on a bench in Piazza Albina. Moretti’s character, recently-widowed, passes his time on the bench across from his young daughter’s school. As the days pass, he becomes a fixture of the local scene and becomes a respected habitue of the local cafe. Aventino is an elegant, leafy quarter and well-worth a visit. But don’t expect to find the benches where Moretti eased his grief or the cafe where he began to make new friends: the film crew dismantled the set and took it back to the studios. Fortunately the trees are still there. ¶

apartment with a doorbell that screams. A vegetarian and a reformed alcoholic, Dylan is not a man of his time. He disdains mobile phones, plays the clarinet and drives an old VW Beetle convertible which he received in payment for his first case. He’s also a hopeless romantic who loves and loses a new woman in nearly every issue. His clothes are one of his defining characteristics: he

always dresses the same way, in a red shirt, black jacket, and blue jeans. He bought twelve identical outfits after the death of his wife Lillie Connolly on the advice of Inspector Bloch, who was his superior when he worked at Scotland Yard and remains his father figure even after Dylan struck out on his own. It was the death of Lillie which sparked Dylan’s new career. An IRA militant, Lillie is arrested as a terrorist and subsequently dies in prison, shortly after marrying Dylan. It is after this tragic episode that the detective leaves the police force to become a paranormal PI. He rarely moves far from home, but his investigations constantly take him through the most obscure labyrinths of the human The Italian national phenomenon Dylan Dog photo: lessio / flickr

mind in tales that are like a more laid-back version of the X Files. The stories are dark, disturbing and darkly comic. Perhaps not to everyone’s tastes. But his fans are legion and fiercely loyal. The doyen of Italian intellectuals (and author of the multimillion medieval best-seller The Name of the Rose) Umberto Eco has said there are three books he can re-read endlessly without getting bored: The Bible, The Odyssey and Dylan Dog. ¶

SPORTS

Crisis,

Interview with Lazio striker Simone Inzaghi

{ Marco Fagioli }

what crisis?

Lazio striker Simone Inzaghi has been with the Rome club for years and is the only remaining member of the side which claimed a historic championship win in 2000.

ost young Italian boys play street football, many dream of becoming a professional player; only a lucky few actually make it. The small northern town of San Nicolò outside Piacenza has just 8,000 inhabitants but has produced several players who reached the top levels of Italian soccer: two from the same family – Filippo and Simone Inzaghi. AC Milan forward Filippo was a member of Italy’s World Cupwinning team in 2006. After a persistent back injury had kept Simone Inzaghi on the fringes of the team, he has finally regained his fitness and is eager to fight for a first-team place. – It’s been a difficult 3-4 years, but now I’m fully fit and ready to make my contribution. So far this season the coach has decided to give me only limited playing time, but I’m sure my turn will come. I’m keen to show that even at 32 years of age I can still help the club. – Lazio have lost straight league games, conceding 10 goals in the process, and dropping out of the race for a place in next season’s

Simone Inzaghi

UEFA Cup. Disgruntled fans have been speaking of a crisis. – No, we lost the games because of bad breaks. The team’s not playing bad football, we just need a bit of luck. – Some people have blamed it on the threepronged attacking formation. – That’s not true. (Coach) Delio Rossi has always played like this. We’re simply going through an unlucky period. We’ve got a great chance of success in the Italian Cup. If we can beat Juventus in the semi-final we’d be guaranteed a place in next year’s UEFA

AS Roma

Roma rise continues { Marco Fagioli }

After a disastrous start to the Serie A season, Roma have stormed back up the table racking up 10 wins in 13 games and with almost half the season still to play, they are now just three points off the top-four places which guarantee a berth in next year’s Champions League. The club’s hopes have been boosted by the return from injury of talismanic playmaker and captain Francesco Totti and talented young midfielder Alberto Aquilani. Meanwhile, veteran defender Christian Panucci has apologised after he refused to go on the bench in Roma’s 3-0 win at Napoli last month and subsequently asked to leave the club. Pannuci argued with coach Luciano Spalletti after being left on the bench and stormed out of the stadium before the match on January 25. Howev- er, despite being linked with a number of potential buyers in Italy and abroad, Pannuci failed to secure a move during the transfer window. The former Italy international issued a public apology to “the fans, the club and my teammates,’” but – pointedly – not to Spalletti. The apology came too late for Panucci, who

has been excluded from the 25-man Champions League squad. The ex-Italy player, who won the Champions League at AC Milan and Real Madrid, has played 207 times for Roma since 2001, scoring 17 goals. Another Roma player who unwillingly made the headlines was French central defender Philippe Mexes, who received hospital treatment after a brawl outside a nightclub. Mexes, together with team-mate and fellow Frenchman Jeremy Menez, was assaulted by a group of fans of bitter cross-city rivals Lazio. He was taken to a local hospital to receive treatment and was later discharged. ¶ AS Roma defender Cristian Panucci photo: ansa

Cup, which was our goal at the start of the season. – You’re the last remaining member of the glorious team which won the scudetto in 2000. But since then, nothing… – Playing in Rome is not always easy. There’s so much pressure: the press, sports radio, the fans who demand instant success. But I like it, I wouldn’t have it any other way. This is like home to me. I’ve got a very special relationship with the club and I wouldn’t want to play for any other team. I’ve recently extended my contract for another two years and I hope to finish my career here. A few years ago I was on the verge of completing a move to Aston Villa but – with all due respect – Birmingham is not Rome. I’ve spent most of my adult life in Rome. I’ve bought a home here and my son Tommaso goes to school here. – Your old friends in your hometown of San Nicolò won’t be pleased. Everyone there wants to form a team with the guys who were born there: you, your brother Filippo, Marcello Campolonghi (a former striker with Brescia in seria A). – (laughs) I know. We all began in the local team of San Nicolò and then started professionally at Piacenza. I’ve still got loads of friends there, but now my family’s in Rome. – Was there never any chance of you and Filippo playing on the same club? – We played together in the national team, which was really a dream come true. In the past there was talk of me moving to AC Milan, but nothing came of it. – Many people have said you’re a more talented player than your brother. – Only my childhood friends would say that … But seriously, Pippo’s career is simply out of sight: 250 goals in all competitions. In my opinion he’s still the best Italian striker playing.

Simone Inzaghi He was born in Piacenza on 5 April, 1976. He began playing with the local club in San Nicolò before joining the youth team at Piacenza. After starting his professional career in the lower divisions, he reached serie A in the 1998-99 season and scored 15 league goals helping Piacenza stave off relegation. The following year he joined a star-studded Lazio team (Veron, Nedved, Nesta, Mancini). With 7 goals in 22 league appearances he helped the side to its second serie A title. The following season one of the best performances of his career saw him score four times in a Champions League tie against Olympique Marseilles. He made his international debut for Italy against Spain in 2000 when he played alongside his brother Filippo. – Do you follow international football? – I love watching the English Premier League. I always enjoy seeing Manchester United play. – So for the final of the Champions League, which will be played here in Rome at the Olympic Stadium, would you chance a bet on the Red Devils? – Too right. Unless something strange happens, they should walk away with it. ¶

Champions League

Wenger wary of Roma { Nicolas Stark }

Roma travel to the EmirArsenal coach Arsene Wenger ates Stadium on 24 February for the last-16 clash, with the return match at the Olympic Stadium two weeks later. AS Roma fans snapped up all 3,000 tickets for the first leg of the Champions league tie with Arsenal in London later this month in just twenty minutes as the giallorossi hope their fine league form will continue in Europe. Arsenal coach Arsene Wenger has warned his team faces a tough test in its last-16 Champions League tie against AS Roma. “It’s 50-50 and could go either way. Roma have regained their form and are playing very well,” Wenger told a press conference in London. The Frenchman was full of praise for Roma’s attractive, attacking style of football. “I think their quick, shortpassing game is probably the best in Italy. They’re a very technical team and we’ll have to be very careful in defence.” Wenger, who took Arsenal to the Champions League final in 2006, added that Roma would enjoy special motivation for the tie. “The fact that the final will be played in Rome is an added incentive for them.” ¶

16 SPORTS Rugby: Six-Nations

Italy fall again to England { Nicolas Stark }

Italy coach N ick Mallett photo: ansa

Piepoli banned for two years (ANSA) Rome – Veteran Italian cyclist Leonardo Piepoli was banned for two years after using the latest version of EPO at last year’s Tour de France, the national antidoping tribunal said. Piepoli’s use of Mircera, the new generation of the banned blood booster, was established by a series of tests on samples taken on July 4 and 15, they said. The 37-year-old was sacked by his team, Saunier Duval, on July 18. On October 2 Piepoli’s former team leader Riccardo Riccò, 25, was banned for two years after being ejected from the Tour for Mircera use on July 17. Riccò still faces possible criminal prosecution in France. Riccò won two stages and Piepoli one at the Tour, where Riccò’s ejection was the latest in a string of high-profile doping cases. ¶

taly began their 10th season in the Six Nations Rugby tournament with a 36-11 loss to England at Twickenham. The defeat means the Azzurri have failed to beat England in all 15 matches they have played. Veteran Mauro Bergamasco endured a torrid time as emergency scrum-half and Italy suffered another setback when they lost flyhalf Andrea Marcato to injury after half an hour, although his replacement Luke McLean landed two penalties to put his team on the board. Italy Coach Nick Mallett eventually admitted defeat with his scrum-half experiment at halftime and brought on Giulio Toniolatti, who had only 15 minutes of international rugby to his name. After the game Mallett admitted the experiment had backfired. ”I think I’ve learnt my lesson there and I think Mauro will be consid-

Leonardo Piepoli / photo: ansa

Formula One Grand Prix ered as a flanker,” Mallett told a news conference. Bergamasco, who had 69 previous caps at flanker, started at scrum-half after injuries to Mallett’s three leading number nines. Since joining the six-nations Italy have claimed just six wins (four against Scotland, two against Wales, plus a draw) in eight years. Beating both in 2007 was the highlight. This year’s tournament schedule sees Italy playing three of its five matches in Rome. They face a trip to Murrayfield to take on Scotland; but they will host Ireland, France and Wales at the Stadio Flaminio, raising hopes of creating an upset – or two. ¶

Panini figurines for NBA

Next Match: Italy-Ireland, 15 February Rome, Stadio Flaminio

Rome ‘working on’ (ANSA) Rome – Rome is seeking to set up a Formula One Grand Prix in the capital, Mayor Gianni Alemanno said. “We are working on it,” he said. “It’s a very important project, one we believe in, but before we make an official announcement we have to do a lot of technical assessment”. A group of Italian investors and racing enthusiasts, FG Group, was formally set up on January 29 with a view to bringing F1 to Rome in 2011. FG has already met with Hermann Tilke, considered the world’s greatest designer of new-generation race tracks. According to the media, the group plans to rival the historic Monaco Grand Prix. Max Mosley, head of motor racing’s ruling body FIA, was cool about the plan, noting that Italy already has two GPs. But he said a final decision was up to FI boss Bernie Ecclestone. Ferrari boss Luca Cordero di Montezemolo has said a permanent race would be “unthinkable” but a one-off event might be open to discussion. FG plans to stage the GP in the Mussolini-era Roman district of EUR. Enthusiasts point out that overtaking would be possible there unlike other new street circuits like Valencia and Singapore. Italy already has two F1 circuits, Monza which is home to the Italian Grand Prix and Imola which hosts the San Marino GP. The group has assured Monza executives its plan would not threaten the Italian GP, one of the longest-running events on the motor racing calendar. It was first run in 1921.

(ANSA) Rome – American basketball stars in Panini’s collection of figurines: starting from the 2009-2010 season, the Italian company will produce its own NBA collection. Stars such as Kobe Brian (Lakers), Tim Duncan (San Antonio Spurs), Kevin Garnett (Boston Celtic), Shaquille O’Neal (Phoenix Suns) and prestigious Italian names like Andrea Bargnani (Toronto Raptors), Marco Belinelli (Golden State Warriors) and Danilo Gallinari (Knicks New York) will join other collectible figurines from football and show business. Panini produced NBA collections during the 1990s, and now, new product lines will be started, supported by an intense marketing and promotional campaign. ¶ Andrea Bargnani

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AINTER , illustrato r and graphic Zoe Lacchei designer, has made a name for herself one of the most interestinas of contemp orary Italian g ists. The art32-year-o ld artist burst onto the internati scene in onal 2004 when realized she thirteen paintings for Marilyn Manson’s Disc “The Gold Golden Age of the Grotesqu e”. See pg. 9

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FROM 3 JANUAR retailers Y until will be 13 February trying by offering Rome huge price to boost flagging stores marking reduction sales s. With up 50% feel spoilt many discount for s shoppers and so many choice. But may with so shopping many shops just where streets should across the bargain best deals? capital hunters Here are go to get to avoid the dodgy deals some simple tips on bargains and where how . to find the best See pg. 6

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– 10 Febru HREE AND A ary 200 2009 HALF 09 between HOURS Rome and red and Milan on silver super-tra a top speed a PALAZZOGAT in with By the end of 300 kilomete E rs per hour. of 2009 ROME be below the MAGISTR three hours. journey time ATES are investigati will was finally Italy’s TAV ng a massive introduce service leged property al2008 on d on 14 the scam involving Decembe more than Rome and 500-kilometer hundreds route betweenr Milan – of A-list properties the busiest ian railway in the capital on the Italnetwork. knockdow sold at a controver It came n prices. at the end sial 15-year The affair concerns initial cost of project 851 apartment estimates which saw buildings s to €66b that changed and at the end of €14b in 1991 for hands soar a total of of 2008. service 231 million shaves The speedier an hour – way below euros Rome–M off the their market ilan route, value. litical and connectin lucrative financial g Italy’s See pg. 4 pocapitals and 30 in three minutes hours 18 times construct a day. Further ion work on the between stretch Milan and of line other thirty Bologna will cut minutes anthe end of this year. off journey times by See pg. 4 INTERVIEW WITH ILARIA BELTR AMME

IT’S IMMEDIA TELY obvious that the young author Ilaria Beltramme is also an active sportswoman. She covered hundreds of kilometers throughou as part of t Rome research for her first book which has proved a surprise bestseller in Roman bookstores .

See pg. 10