Banff and Jasper National Parks: The Ultimate Canadian Road Trip

By Ashley St Germain

IF YOU HAVEN’T RVed through the Canadian Rockies, take this as a sign that you need to add it to your list.

The iconic views alone are worth the trip, but it’s so much more than that—for an active, outdoorsy family, there’s no better place to be.

Back in 2019, my husband and I were inexperienced RVers, but self-proclaimed adventurers, and decided to make the 36-hour trek across Canada from our home in Ottawa, Ontario. We packed up our two young kids, two dogs, and 33-foot travel trailer, intending to experience everything the Canadian Rockies had to offer.

BANFF NATIONAL PARK

Our first stop was obvious—you simply haven’t been out west if you haven’t visited Banff. Canada’s first-ever national park is about 90 minutes west of Calgary, Alberta, and is the star attraction of the Rockies.

The park is 6,641 square kilometers (2,564 square miles) and a whopping 96% is untouched wilderness. The quaint and quiet town of Banff is nestled inside the park. A tourist town with strong feelings toward wilderness preservation, Banff offers attractions that fit with the surroundings. That said, the star of the show is always the view; the breathtaking skyline doesn’t quite feel real, and the water is so blue and grass so green it feels like you’re looking at a painting.

We decided to stay close to the town itself for convenience, so we booked a spot at one of the most popular campsites at the park, Tunnel Mountain. This site is located close to downtown Banff and has stunning mountain views from nearly every site. The tradeoff is that it’s more of a parking lot atmosphere than a camping atmosphere. I’d recommend avoiding it if you’re looking to be in nature as much as possible, as space is limited and the parking sites are paved. Traveling with young kids meant we had to prioritize convenience, and we didn’t find it limited our experience.

Over the next week, we spent our time exploring all Banff had to offer— white water rafting, taking the gondola to the top of Sulphur Mountain (Banff’s most popular attraction), and of course, hiking absolutely everywhere. Our favorite family hikes were right at Tunnel Mountain, just steps away from the RV, and Cascade Mountain, which is perfect for casual hikers, with a waterfall that’s well worth the climb.

The next stop on our list was Lake Louise, a notable town inside Banff National Park that is often listed as a must-visit destination. It will take a bit longer than the two-lane highway, but the scenic route to Lake Louise using the Bow Valley Parkway is an easy drive full of gorgeous scenery and exciting wildlife sightings.

The campground we chose was aptly named Campground Lake Louise. It’s a cute little campground at the base of the town that is protected by electric fences to deter wildlife. It has a quieter, more traditional camping feel than Tunnel Mountain, but spots are still relatively close together due to the sheer number of visitors.

While visiting Lake Louise, there are two must-see attractions. The first, of course, is the lake. It may be obvious, but Lake Louise is a destination location for a reason. The hikes wind around the lake, which is dotted with glaciers, and you can stop at the family-run tea house for refreshments and delicious baked goods. You will find it easy to match the difficulty of a hike with your skill level—there are plenty of advanced routes for experienced hikers looking for a challenge as well as more family-friendly paths. Both options have the benefit of gorgeous views and air so fresh you can’t help but become aware of each breath.

As a photographer, visiting Moraine Lake was my personal mission. It’s the most iconic image of the Canadian Rockies, and of Canada for that matter. The lake is a pure, deep turquoise blue and found directly in front of the Ten Peaks mountain range. The combination is electric.

Moraine Lake draws in millions of visitors every year. I was determined to take full advantage and get a once-in-a-lifetime sunrise shot during our stay. We all woke up at 4 a.m. and drove up the mountain in the dark to time the sunrise perfectly. We waited and watched the sun kiss the top of the peaks, creating the most beautifully-lit landscape I had ever seen. To describe this experience as breathtaking doesn’t do it justice. In fact, I completely forgot why I was there and didn’t take the photos! But don’t worry, I made time for a second sunrise trip before we left and got my photo.

It’s easy to see why Lake Louise is such a hot spot for tourism; the area is so distinctly Canadian, it’s right up there with the CN Tower and the Toronto skyline. Of course, any well-known destination will be somewhat crowded. To combat the rush, we arrived very early at the spots we wanted to visit to ensure parking and a more peaceful visit. The early bird really does get the worm at Moraine Lake—the entrance road is closed once the parking lot is full, which can be as early as 7 a.m. during peak season.

I believe everyone should visit Lake Louise and Moraine Lake once, but in all honesty, once is probably enough. The planning and effort to get around the crowds can be difficult, and it doesn’t quite capture that natural, adventurous feeling we’re looking for.

JASPER NATIONAL PARK

The next stop for us was Jasper National Park. The drive to Jasper beautifully illustrates one of my favorite things about the Rockies— the route itself is as worthwhile as the destinations.

The highway heading to Jasper is a 232-kilometer stretch that winds over and around the mountains, past more than 100 monumental glaciers, countless icy blue waters, and dramatic cascading waterfalls. It’s stunning, with many points of interest along the highway. Whether you zip along for a few hours or spend days on the route, you won’t be disappointed. We regretted rushing straight to Jasper without booking a campground along the Icefields Parkway, since you could explore the attractions for days, but we did manage a few stops, including the Columbia Icefield. The Columbia Icefield is a tourist attraction along the highway that sells tickets to walk on the largest glacier in the Canadian Rockies. This is a great place to stop for a bite to eat with a great view of the glacier, too.

Athabasca Falls is another worthwhile stop, and was a hit with the kids. After all, a quick 1-kilometer trail with a waterfall and canyon is hard to beat! It’s a great spot to stretch your legs and capture some beautiful photos.

If you’re looking for a private campground where you can be immersed in nature, the Wabasso campground on the outskirts of Jasper National Park is great. It was by far our favorite campground of the trip. You are certainly a guest here and the wildlife are comfortably at home—and yes, that includes bears! My husband caught one ambling through the park in the early hours of the morning. Fortunately, the bear was not fazed and continued to tour, but we wised up and carried bear spray religiously after that.

A highlight of Jasper National Park is Mount Edith Cavell, one of the most beautiful and popular hiking areas. These trails put the “rock” in Rockies, with wide-open paths and rugged cut rock, perfect for hikers who want a challenge. That being said, the trails are also very accessible with plenty of options for new hikers, including guided hikes with a local expert.

There is so much to do in Jasper I couldn’t possibly list it all, but if I could recommend only one thing it would be the Jasper SkyTram, a gondola ride that carries you to the top of Whistlers Mountain. This is the highest and longest tram in Canada. I’ve mentioned the mountain views many times, but I really can’t stress it enough—from the top of the mountain you are surrounded by the undisturbed Canadian Rockies, the town of Jasper, and the glittering Athabasca River. I’ll let the photos do the talking here, even though they pale in comparison to the real view.

We’ve traveled all across Canada, but for us, the Rockies changed the game. These majestic mountains represented adventure and the kind of spontaneous life we wanted to live. In the summer of 2021, we made the change to downsize, sold 90% of our belongings, and became full-time nomads. Since then we’ve experienced all kinds of Canadian landscapes, including rugged ocean coastlines, the prairies, and the spacious Great Lakes. We loved them all, but the Rockies hold up as the ultimate adventure and certainly the setting of some of my favorite photographs.

Keep up with Ashley’s adventure on Instagram @highfive.to.happiness and for professional photography go to ashleystgermain.ca