RELEASE YOUR WOES IN THE ABACOS

By Alexandra ‘Bahayogi’ Kaufmann Photographs Courtesy Of Alexandra Kaufmann

Pack your bags; you’re going on an adventure! Make sure you bring a swimsuit, hat, sunglasses, and plenty of sunscreen. Then, catch that early Bahamasair flight around 7am and land at your destination on time, ready to seize the day.

Welcome to the Abacos, the boating capital of The Bahamas. This chain of islands and cays, divided into Central, North and South, spans over 120 miles. However, naturally, the adventure begins on Great Abaco, the main and largest island.

Once you land at Leonard M. Thompson International Airport in Marsh Harbour, take a few minutes to get your bag from baggage claim and head straight to the front exit where my favourite driver, Jeff, awaits in Taxi #11. But, of course, you can only start an adventure with a nourishing breakfast. And what better way to nourish than with a steamy bowl of boiled fish and freshly baked Johnny cake coated in melted butter? The first stop is at Colours restaurant to fill your belly, then promptly head to The Crossings ferry dock to catch the 10:30am boat to Guana Cay.

As I said before, the Abacos are a chain of islands and cays, and to truly experience the Abacos, you must also venture beyond the mainland. So, on this trip, over three days, you’ll make it to Great Guana Cay, Nunjack Cay, No Name Cay, Green Turtle Cay, then right back to mainland Marsh Harbour.

All aboard the G&L ferry! This $20 roundtrip ride takes us cruising through cerulean waters, and in about forty-five minutes, you’ll reach your destination. About eight miles from Marsh Harbour, nestled in the centre of the Abaco islands, is Great Guana Cay. With nearly 200 residents on seven miles of long, narrow land, this cay boasts reputedly one of the most beautiful beaches in all the Abacos. This pink and white sand beach is bathed in waters of every shade of blue, aquamarine and turquoise and has about a five-mile stretch of untouched beauty.

Once you get off the ferry, there’s no need for wheels here in the settlement. You’ll be fine walking, or you can rent a cart from Dive Guana should you want to venture beyond. At the end of the dock, take a right and head to Nippers Beach Bar & Grill. Settle in for a bite to eat. I recommend the famous chicken in da’ bag and even more famous (and feared) frozen delight, a Nipper, to wash it down -- if you dare! While you eat, take in the views of the Atlantic Ocean and, afterwards, walk down to the beach for a dip. Feel the soft powdery sand between your toes and comb the area for small shells, colourful sea glass and even some sea beans. Depending on the time of year, with not many people living on the island, you’ll find primarily seagulls and ghost crabs accompanying you along your walk.

After you bathe in the sun, maybe another Nipper? That’ll loosen up your bones to jam some tunes from Barefoot Man and Jimmy Buffett to Bob Marley. Find your groove, meet some new friends, and create some memories. Then, it’s time to follow the crowd over to Grabbers! Down the dirt path, take a left, walk past the ferry dock, and make your way towards the end of the settlement. Grabbers is the spot for some of the best sunset views on the island. Equipped with a pool, hammocks, and two bars -- this is an epic place to unwind for the rest of the night. So, have a few drinks and catch the kitchen before it closes to sample some of the best Bahamian food in town. Finally, end the night in one of the many oceanfront cottage rentals on Guana Cay and get some rest for tomorrow—it’s a boat day!

Now, you can’t come to the boating capital of The Bahamas and not indulge in a boat trip. So, hop on board one of the many boat rentals from Dive Guana and explore the southern cays. Then, with the best captain, you’ll cruise through the Whale Cut Passage, which can be daunting as this is where the mighty Atlantic Ocean meets the Sea of Abaco, but it makes for an exhilarating ride that a pod of dolphins may sometimes accompany. Finally, after about thirty minutes of cruising, feast your eyes on Nunjack Cay—a beautiful, protected cove filled with sharks, stingrays, turtles and lots of fish. This area is well known to those around as a pitstop to feed the animals. As soon as your boat pulls into the bay, turtles and stingrays will begin to flock. If the tide is right and your captain allows, hop off and head to shore, and with some squid (your boat captain will provide, of course), you can feed the stingrays at the shoreline. I like to place the squid between my toes and feel as the stingrays swim over to graze with the gentlest tickles. However, if you prefer to stay in the boat, throw some pieces to the nurse sharks and turtles that await. They will be forever grateful!

Ready for lunch? Next stop: Pineapples on Green Turtle Cay. This spot is home to some of the most tender cracked conch I have ever had! Pineapples—a popular place to hang out with a small dock and pool – is perfect for a mid-day lounge and nosh. Have a drink or two, take some photos, then head to the day’s last spot.

Pigs At Big O’s

While everything so far will make for an amazing time, an Abaco boat trip is only complete if you have experienced a swim with the pigs. So, pull up to No Name Cay and watch as the pigs swim towards you. It is a fantastic sight to see! Only in The Bahamas do pigs’ swim! Make your way off the boat with your treats in hand – for the piggies, of course. They love carrots, celery, apples, and corn. As you wade towards the shore, keep your hands high and your eyes alert, as the older pigs can be pretty assertive. But when you’re ready to share the love, take your time and feed them one at a time. Adorable, though they may be, the pigs on No Name Cay are wild animals. Let me repeat. Wild. Animals. So, proceed with caution. Further, on shore, you’ll see a beautiful stand of Casuarina trees and Big O’s restaurant, which is another excellent spot to settle in for a bite and a little something to wet your throat. If you’re looking for a fresh conch salad, there’s a stand on the dock, and it’s some of the freshest I’ve ever had.

Once you’ve had your fill of feeding adorable pigs, head on back to Guana Cay. Feel free to end the day with sunset views at Grabber’s or head in for the night and fall asleep to the sound of the waves.

What a magnificent two-day adventure in the Abacos! And this barely scratches the surface of all the cool things to experience in this enchanting chain of islands. We may have to plan another trip. What do you think? UA

May I suggest Cuba for your next family vacation? I hope your answer is yes. Especially if you are one of those travellers who always returns home with art in the form of paintings, sculptures, souvenirs, the works. I have a treat for you that will make your next trip to Cuba “The Arts Paradise”, because, this time, you will return home after having had the great opportunity to “Meet the Artists”.

Let’s start this trip on your “right foot”. First step: Book your tickets to Havana, Cuba on Bahamasair. Once in Havana, there is a family of artists that you must meet: La Familia Bordón. The Bordón family has a father whose contemporary paintings are in galleries in almost every continent; a mother, who I call “The Queen of Installations”; a son who is a professional photographer; and a daughter whose major is art history. Literally, meeting this family is like a dream come true for art lovers. What a treat for art connoisseurs!