Acklins - The Untouched Gem of The Bahamas

Acklins

The Untouched Gem of The Bahamas

By Nikia Wells Photographs courtesy of Tony E. Williams

There are many hidden gems and little-known pockets of paradise throughout the length and breadth of The Bahamas. Acklins is known for its rich cascarilla history, but many might not have gotten a first-hand immersion into the wonders of this untouched southern island. Here, several Acklins residents (past and present) share their first-hand experiences about life on Acklins and what makes the island truly unique.

Tony Williams may now live in New Providence, but when he returns to Acklins, it still feels like home. “That breeze…” he casually remarks, trailing off slightly. When he speaks about the island, you can audibly hear a sense of ease and peace in his voice, almost as if the mere thought of being back on the island brings him a sense of unsullied tranquility.

“The island is just beautiful, tranquil, peaceful…. You can go on any beach in Acklins and you will not be disturbed. You can just go and it’ll be just you on the beach. The people are also very friendly. You can strike up a conversation with nearly anybody and they would give you the history of Acklins. I actually think that’s what makes the island unique and what makes us special.

“You don’t have that stress of having to deal with traffic, having to deal with any of the other things that you will find in the big city. You can just drive and enjoy the island scenery. I don’t think you can drive a mile without seeing the water in Acklins. That view…. that view is always there. And, that sea breeze—you can open your window and you don’t have to use the air condition because you get that fresh island breeze.

“I grew up right next to the water and it was like having my own personal beach. It doesn’t have an official name, but we call it Williams Beach. On a normal day, I just spend the day relaxing on the porch, catching some of that cool island Beautiful Acklins

Heading Out On A Fishing Trip

breeze, and maybe visiting family. We have coconut trees in our yard, so you can get some coconut water and jelly - you pick them and open them yourself.

“We all usually cook for ourselves. My sister is there; my mom is there. So, I usually just eat by them. That’s how things are there. We’re all self-sufficient. But, if I’m not eating by my friends and family, I go to Club Rolex. They have some serious crack conch.”

That captivating feeling of complete and utter calm is a common thread when speaking to another Acklins resident - Anita Collie. If someone was visiting Acklins for the first time, she would suggest exploring, taking a kayak around the mangroves, checking out the caves, enjoying a moment of solitude on the beach, or going bonefishing (some of the best bonefishing in the entire Bahamas, according to Anita). She also highly recommends visiting the old churches and just being open to interacting with the people that you meet.

“Acklins is remote and untouched, and that is a big part of why it is so unique. It’s natural. Unlike some of the other islands in The Bahamas that may be a bit more commercialized, Acklins is very close to how it used to be about 50-60 years ago. If you drive through the island of Acklins, you will see settlements that are tucked away. Definitely explore the old churches and just go into the settlements and talk. The people will welcome you. We love sharing the rich history of who we are.“

“If you’re looking for a good meal outside of someone’s home, I would go to Hillside Restaurant in the south. That’s in Salina Point and the owner there is Nikki Forbes. If I’m just coming off of the plane, I would go to the Airport Inn; that’s Mrs. Mabel Hanna. If I’m in Central Acklins, I would go to Club Rolex; that’s Henry Rolle. If you’re in the north, you can find Claudine Virgil. She cooks. Claudine and Shenique—that’s a mother and daughter team in the north, in Lovely Bay.”

“Most people are still very welcoming. If you come to their home, they will offer you a piece of cake or some bread or a soda.”

“One of my greatest joys is exploring the outdoors. My biggest passion, above all that I do, is bush tea medicines; identifying the differing herbs that Line Fishing

we have here on the island that are indigenous to Acklins and harvesting tea leaves. We have everything there and have been using them for over 100 years. When I was born, I saw my mother making bush teas.”

“We have so many. Five fingers, strong back, kamalame, rock bush, fever grass, catnip, bay geranium, soursop … and, of course, the cascarilla. You can’t forget that. That is what really makes Acklins special. I use the cascarilla

Cutting Open A Coconut

for teas, I make my own bitters, and during the Acklins Cascarilla Festival, you can see so many different uses for it. “

“A good majority of the people who live in Acklins still go fishing, they still go crabbing, and we beat the cascarilla bark. We go into the bush, cut the bark, soak it, beat it, and then clean it and take it to the local buyer.“

“I also harvest and dry my own salt. I use that in my cooking, my soaps and in my scrubs. Salt harvesting has always been a part of the Acklins culture and still is. There are various salt ponds around Acklins and I used to even go to them as a child. Now, you can go to the pond near Delectable Bay and you can collect big crystal clear chunks of salt. We don’t enhance it, we don’t do anything to it. We only harvest it, spread it out and let the sun do its magic. The sun purifies it and gives it its white color. In Acklins, most people cook with local salt. I have not used a boxed salt in about 11 years.”

“When you are in Acklins, you need to try the flour cake. It is a dessert that Acklins has been known for. We don’t bake it in the oven. The oven is not the same as baking it outside or in your kitchen, over coal, on a three-legged rock oven. The fire seasons it, and gives it a unique flavor.”

“A lot of people still use their outdoor ovens even if they have conventional ovens. We still have that deep connection to our history and our culture.”

For Oralee Beneby, flour cakes are also a must-have for persons visiting Acklins. She described them as some of the best in The Bahamas.

She notes that even though growing up on the island wasn’t easy, she has a deep love for Acklins.

“Growing up in Acklins was really hard. The supply boat didn’t come as often as it does today. But, I am thankful that we did a lot of farming. Everything that we had, we had to grow and make it. We made the guinea corn grits, the yellow grits, and my granddaddy grew oranges and peanuts. Can you imagine that?”

“We ate a lot of seafood. And when the rooster crowed, you had to get up. We would get up early to get wood to light the fire, to get the stove rolling. And you had to tote water.”

“That’s just how life was.”

“I used to also go to Samana Cay where they grew the cascarilla bark, and at eight or nine years old, we would get up early in the morning, go in the field, go to the pond, get the bark; we had to pull it and beat it, put it in the sun, and pick out all the sticks…. It wasn’t easy at all.”

“I eventually moved to Nassau at about 11 years old. We came by boat and it took us almost two weeks. Despite all of that, Acklins is still so special to me.

“Life there is much easier now. I still go back often because I love Acklins. Those memories—I hold them close to my heart and I cherish them. Everything I went through taught me how to appreciate things and how to take what little I have and make something out of it.

“While Acklins is more modern, we still stay connected to our roots. Just going out on the bay, and just looking at the beautiful water - it’s amazing. There is a beautiful part of Lovely Bay that, when the tide is low, you can just walk right out and pick up a conch.

“Right in the front of my door, there is a dock. The boats that come there head to Crooked Island. So, when the ferry comes in, everything is happening right in front of my door. And that breeze … Oh, my God!

“Acklins is my home. I have my house and I always planned to move back. When you go to Acklins, it’s just peaceful. You move on your own time and it’s just a different environment. You go to bed, get up, and move when you choose.” UA

Coconut Water ‘Nectar Of The Gods’

Ms. Remalia Williams and great-grandson Noah Laroda-Deal