A Land of Many Colors

An excursion through Guatemala’s Maesa Central Region from Antigua to Lake Atitlán

Written & Photographed by Monica Pica

The pastel façades in Antigua.

Antigua

The Town Beneath Volcanoes

An intricate Colonial doorway.

The first stop on my journey through Guatemala began in the lively Spanish Colonial town of Antigua. Often referred to as “the land of eternal spring,” Guatemala is a geographically diverse nation with three distinct regions including the highlands, the Pacific coast and the Petén region. Throughout this country, volcanoes stand tall among the rainforest;, stretches of fertile fields grow an abundance of bounty, like tomatoes and coffee; and valleys are nestled with lakes that were once carved out by craters. I arrived in April, to discover that little has changed to the city’s façade since it was colonised in 1542. Deemed a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979, today it's a flourishing destination for both food and culture; visitors will observe that it’s a special place that stays steadfast to its storied past. Red clay roofs, brightly painted buildings with colorful shutters and cobblestone streets remain untouched beneath the shadow of two volcanoes. Agua, the largest of the two volcanoes is named for the rainwater that collects at its peak; Fuego, the most active volcano in Central America is both a sight of beauty and a reminder of nature’s fury to those who call Antigua home.

Arriving in Antigua rather hungry, I dined at La Esquina, a cafeteria-style restaurant overseen by chef Eduardo González of Casa Palopó in Lake Atitlán’s heralded as one of Antigua’s hip dining destinations. Visitors can choose from a variety of colorfully styled food counters and equally fun places to sit and “play” including hanging chairs and even a slide. I kicked off my meal with a refreshing shrimp ceviche, I followed that with an order of pork hilachas, a shredded meat dish simmered in a spicy tomato sauce, which came with a side of freshly prepared corn tortillas. For dessert, I enjoyed a glazed hibiscus donut and an ice cold horchata— the perfect mix of sugar, rice and fragrant cinnamon. Full and ready to immerse myself in Antigua’s Old World charm, I began to wander the city as the sun cast deep shadows against the stuccoed buildings; the midday heat became humid with the promise of an evening shower.

The stone streets were uneven but polished from years of constant wear. I imagined what it was like before there were modern forms of transportation like motorized scooters and cars that now occupied the roads. I passed women and children dressed in traditional, brightly embroidered clothing selling handfuls of mangos drenched in lime alongside cooling slices of juicy watermelon—it was easy to get lost in this dream world. I ordered myself a mixed bag of fruit as I admired the handmade items at the Mercado el Carmen, which is part open-air and part enclosed market. There, I idly perused the vibrant woven blankets, painted figurines and beaded jewelry.

Intricate details of the furniture at Las Pilas.

A view of the Santa Catalina Arch.

Shrimp ceviche at local eatery, La Esquina.

As I wandered, the buildings blended into an array of shades with paint that had faded and cracked, revealing forgotten colors of the past. Each facade was unique and I found myself unable to resist strolling into the many courtyards with hidden restaurants and shops as I walked towards the Parque Central, the main town square, home to the famous mermaid water fountain. I stopped at Artista de Café, a small coffee shop with pink accents and an elegant atmosphere to savor a ‘refracción’—a coffee break that is traditionally taken around 4 p.m. The cafés courtyard offered a stylish escape from the busy streets, as well as shade from the unforgiving sun.

Reenergized, I reached the town square just as the crowds began to fade. I strolled under the covered passageways passing locals perched on stairs, seeking the coolness of the shade, while others sat in deep conversation with one another. On display from any point in the square is the Cathedral of San José, a beautiful yellow structure that is the largest and most famous of the many Spanish Colonial churches dotted throughout. From there, I walked the short distance to La Merced Church, a beautiful Baroque masterpiece with striking white details, which is home to a small market. In order to see the city from a different vantage point, I set out on a short hike to the Cerro de la Cruz Mirador, a breathtaking panorama marked with a cross on top of the hill, where the geographical boundaries created by the volcanoes are easily seen.

When the sun’s strength started to fade beneath the clouds, I made my way to one of Antigua’s most photographed sites, the 17th century Santa Catalina Arch that cloistered nuns once used as a passageway. I found myself completely transported as I stood underneath the yellow arch. I gazed up at the bluish grey sky, as the noise of the city quieted and drops of water began hitting the pavement. I took in the freshness of the rain and the tranquility of the emptied streets, before returning to my hotel, to turn in for the night.

A STAY AT VILLAS LAS PILAS

I arrived at Villas Las Pilas just as the sun emerged from the clouds and waved its final farewell by sinking below the clay shingled rooftops. Only a few steps away from Tanque de la Union, a serene park that’s a short distance from the town center, Villas Las Pilas, a sister property of Casa Palopó, offers a tranquil retreat for an overnight or extended stay.

The villas are designed in the traditional Spanish Colonial style with rooms that wrap around an open courtyard and are accented with beautiful tiled flooring—there is also a small pool to laze about in. As I entered the garden, the soft evening glow deepened the greens of the climbing vines and tropical plants that decorated the villa’s interior. My room was one of three larger accommodations, with high ceilings accented with dark wooden beams, white plastered walls and a working fireplace. Every night, a fire can be lit in your suite, or in any of the other communal lounge areas upon request. All of the villas are fully equipped with amenities like a kitchen, living room and bar that are all dressed with hand-woven fabrics, antique furniture and decor that add to the romantic appeal.

Early the following morning, I climbed the winding metal staircase to the second-floor patio and took in the view of Agua and Fuego. I sat, enjoying the warmth of the day and watched colorful birds fluttered across the yard as the city slowly awakened. The peace of that moment stayed with me as I enjoyed the hotel’s breakfast, which included frijol volteado, a Guatemalan interpretation of fried black beans that was thick and creamy. Bags packed, I was reluctant to say goodbye, as I walked out the large wooden doors of the hotel to the car that would take me away from this enchanting place and on to my next destination.

The rooftop of Casa Palopó overlooking the lake.

Lake Atitlán

The Villages Around the Water

Local artisan treasures in the hotel lobby.

I stared out the car window, as we neared Lake Atitlán, passing villages nestled in the valleys. Perched up on a hill, Casa Palopó came into view beneath a canopy of trees and foliage, as I winded down my two-hour car ride from Antigua. I was eager for the chance to stretch my legs after the long drive. Casa Palopó, a charming boutique hotel, was once a private residence, but today is owned and operated by Claudia Bosch, a native Guatemalan. The name is derived from the word ‘palo’ which means stick and ‘po’ from the Mayan dialect Kaqchikel, which stands for ‘amate,’ a type of native tree. Loved for its eclectic mixture of antiques, artifacts and artisan goods, the property boasts fifteen rooms decorated with their own unique flair and vibrant walls clad in brilliant blue and deep red added to its bohemian appeal. After checking in, I walked to the main terrace of the hotel, where I was greeted with a cold hibiscus drink. From there, I got my initial glimpse of the still blue water of Lake Atitlán and the volcanoes that lay just beyond. It was an incredible sight to see the sky reflecting in the water—the surrounding land looked like it could reach up to the heavens. Atitlán, the Nahuatl word for a ‘between water’ is one of the most beautiful lakes in Guatemala. The region is home to about 6,000 inhabitants, most of whom are Kaqchikel or descendants of the indigenous Mayan civilization. The lake itself is a large blue expanse enveloped by hills and three large volcanoes—Toliman, Atitlán, and San Pedro.

I stayed in one of the newer buildings at the hotel, a modern wood-paneled structure accented with flowers that lined the stairs leading up to the suites and the main pool. My room was swathed in shades of aqua blue from the walls to the hand-woven pillows. As a welcoming treat, a complimentary homemade champurrada—a dry cookie that is usually dunked in tea or coffee—was waiting for me, which I enjoyed on my balcony as I attempted without much success, to spot the outline of the three volcanoes.

Already deeply relaxed, I headed to the outdoor dining area for my first meal at Casa Palopó. As a welcoming gesture, lunch was served on the terrace complete with handmade corn tortillas that were thrown, flattened and cooked to crisp perfection on a hot griddle. A mouthwatering spread had been laid out to build a custom taco, which included a variety of salsas, queso panela, traditional white cheese, frijol volteado, shredded beef, and guacamol, the Guatemalan version of guacamole. I eagerly filled my own, adding an extra spoonful of picante salsa verde, a spicy green sauce, as I looked out onto the horizon. Tacos with a view—it was pure perfection. After lunch, I sank even further into a state of bliss with a massage at the spa that left my skin perfumed with the fragrance of ylang-ylang and lavender essential oils on my skin.

Dinner that evening was courtesy of celebrity Chef Eduardo González, who takes pride in creating dishes that play upon the unique flavors and authentic heart and soul of the country that he calls home. The on-site restaurant incorporates exclusively locally grown and sourced products with 90 percent of collaborators hailing from the Lake Atitlán region. The highlights of the meal included modern renditions of well-known Guatemalan recipes, including Kak’ik, a flavorful turkey soup with tomatillos and plenty of garlic—it’s traditionally served when christening a new home. The star of the evening, though, was Beef Pepían—Chef González’s most famous dish, which was an aromatic infusion of grilled tomatoes, onions and charred chilies blended together, then poured over beef to create a comforting stew, accompanied by rice and vegetables. Fully sated, the evening came to a close with platefuls of bite size Guatemalan desserts; I enjoyed a sticky, tamarind sweet before returning to me room. I took in a breath of warm air and listened to the sounds insects humming their nightly song. The day had been full and I was eager for another opportunity to explore this magical place.

The next day, as the fog began to lift, a boat awaited at the hotel’s dock for an excursion to a few of the neighboring Mayan towns surrounding Lake Atitlán. These small villages, named after the twelve Christian Apostles, have a way of life deeply rooted in tradition; over sixty percent of the country’s population are of direct Mayan descent and many beliefs, practices and art forms are still a large part of everyday life. When it came time to leave Lake Atitlán, I did so with a deep appreciation for the people who lived there, and a renewed perspective on what it truly means to live a life filled with color.

SANTIAGO

My first stop was Santiago, a town filled with sun-washed boats and mismatched houses that crowd one another as they ascended up the hill. It’s a bustling place, with rickshaws lining the streets, scooters blowing dust onto the road and vendors looking to sell at a bargain. I decided to hire a rickshaw to take me to a few noteworthy places; I held on tight as we sped up and down the bumpy, unpaved roads of the town. We stopped at an embroidery shop with no name, run by a woman named Maria. Inside, beautiful fabrics lined the walls and interior of the shop; I admired the exquisitely detailed birds and flowers intricately sewn on shirts and skirts before heading back. From there, I headed to the Saint James the Apostle Church, built in 1547 making it one of the oldest churches in Central America. Inside, the heady scent of incense permeated the air as I took in the relics the walls.

From the church, I walked a few short blocks to the Santiago market, the largest in Lake Atitlán. Set up side by side, with very little room to walk, vendors sold an array of items like mangos, piled high next to buckets of chili peppers, baskets of rice and bags of vegetables and potatoes. The energy of the market was palpable, as shoppers haggled for the best price amidst the chaos. I slowly zigzagged among the stream of people and around the busy stalls, taking in the scene.

SAN JUAN

The boat glided over the lake as we traveled to the tiny town of San Juan. Friendly street dogs and locals with trinket-filled baskets greeted me as I stepped onto the narrow wooden dock that acted as the town’s entrance. I stopped for a quick cortado at Café San Juan, which serves locally sourced coffee, before heading up the steep hill to visit Ixoq Ajkeem, the women’s weaving cooperative, known for its artisan goods. There were colors everywhere I looked; hundreds of patterns, woven with both vibrant shades of the rainbow and sophisticated earth tones, were translated onto scarves, dresses, pillowcases and blankets. Several times a day, the women of the co-op demonstrate waist-loom weaving, a century-old Mayan process used to create these works of art. They incorporate cotton for weaving, while the color of the dye is derived from wood, plants and insects that are then fixed with the sap of the banana tree. The materials are then set to dry for a day before being woven into its final form. There are currently 40 weavers at the co-op and profits from each item sold go directly to the women who created them, allowing the tradition to be passed down from one generation to the next.

I left the co-op with a bag full of treasures and headed a few blocks to El Artesano, an Italian restaurant set against the rainforest hills of San Juan, where reservations are a must. The restaurant is a complete immersion into chef Dietrich Gantenbein’s love of his Italian heritage and his home country of Guatemala. The menu, known for its cheeses and charcuterie boards, includes housecured meats in addition to a carefully selected wine menu—reservations are a must. It was impossible to leave without a full stomach and a clean plate; I savored my last sip of wine and another crostini smothered in a gracious serving of soft creamy goat cheese before setting off to explore another village.

A peek inside a room at Casa Palopó.

Clay owls in San Antonio Palopó.

A boat off the shores of Lake Atitlán.

Peppers contained within a large leaf at the Santiago market.

A patterned-covered home in Santa Catarina Palopó.

SAN ANTONIO PALOPÓ

San Antonio Palopó, while quite small in scale, is a haven for pottery, including the shop Ceramica Palopó Multicolor, where all pieces are created in-house. I was lucky enough to enjoy a tour of the shop and experience the process from start to finish. The workshop was crowded with shelves of drying pottery in a variety of shapes and sizes. The second floor was used for sanding and painting with the kiln located at its center—this floor also had an unobstructed view of the lake. Lingering as I waited for the firing and painting of the pieces, I found delight in watching this group of artisans showcasing their masterful skills as they worked. When I returned to the shop, I perused the selection of mugs, plates, and figurines with a new appreciation for how the pieces were made.

SANTA CATARINA PALOPÓ

The final morning of my stay at Lake Atitlán, I explored Santa Catarina Palopó, where the hotel is also located. I wandered through the chromatic streets and ventured up the steep stone stairs of the village as women carrying baskets and shabby street dogs passed me by. Since 2017, over 387 homes have been painted in an effort to bring new life, pride and a source of income to the villagers through the Pintando Santa Catarina Palopó Project, an initiative started by Guatemalan artist and designer, Diego Olivero. Families add their name to a waitlist in hope of having their homes painted—and to maintain a harmonious look throughout the village, they must choose from an edited selection of colors and traditional Mayan patterns. As a partner and leader in the community’s project, Casa Palopó arranges for guests to take part. The cost is a hundred dollars, which includes a visit to the project office, paint for the house, refreshments and memories of an experience both unforgettable and fulfilling.

GOOD TO KNOW

The rainy season lasts from May through October. • Travel to Lake Atitlán is about a two and a half to three-hour drive from Guatemala City and about two hours from Antigua, depending on traffic. • Casa Palopó offers heliport services to and from the hotel to Guatemala City Airport. The helicopter ride is approximately forty minutes. • Boats can be rented out for the day at Casa Palopó with pricing based on the number of people and towns visited. • Boats stop running from 3 to 4 p.m. each day due to the wind, known locally as ‘Xocomil,’ which makes the water dangerous for travel.