The Art of Traveling Solo

Paris is different things to different people. It is the city of amour, a mecca for art and architecture, a food lover’s paradise and a monument to a glorious past. It is a city where delightful clichés abound, from the man sitting on the Pont Neuf playing a melancholy tune to the small group playing pétanque near the Palais Royal. For me, it represents a life-long love affair that started in my teenage years when I participated in a cultural exchange program. It doesn’t take much to fall in love with Paris, but once you experience even a whisper of its fabled enchantment, you will be mesmerized for life. This first taste of French culture evolved into a college semester spent abroad taking classes at the Sorbonne and the American University of Paris and, years later, a stopover stay on my honeymoon.

Written and Photographed by Alison Engstrom

The sun casting its glow on the exquisite façade of the Louvre

This past June, I decided to spend a few days solo in the City of Lights to absorb the culture once again, but this time I went with my camera in tow. This would allow me the opportunity to finally capture its beauty the way that I’ve always seen it. My itinerary was open; I wanted to see what each day would bring. Perhaps it would find me lingering in a café sipping une noisette, then wandering the halls of the Louvre. Maybe I would while away an afternoon window-shopping along the Rue du Bac, or spend an exorbitant amount of time in the Jardin du Luxembourg marveling at its expertly carved hedges and reflecting pools.

I am quickly reminded that traveling solo is freeing and adventurous; it is something I highly recommend, especially if you have never tried it before. Not only does it reignite your sense of wonder about the world around you, but it is also an opportunity for self-discovery. It makes you slow down and really appreciate a world that is moving too fast. This would be my second time jetting off to a foreign country without a companion. A few years back, I had decided to venture off to Florence after I parted ways with a friend in Rome. Once I mastered the art of dining alone, it left room for an abundance of observations and discoveries that I might never have noticed otherwise, like the details of the dining room décor, or the pleasures of truly savoring every bite of a meal spent in your own company. When traveling alone in Paris, each day is yours for the taking, and at the end of the day it is your city, and that is a wonderful feeling. Here then is a solo traveler's guide to Paris.

The romantic lobby of Hôtel Paris Marais Caron de Beaumarchais

Hotels: Where to Stay

A room with a view at Maison Albar Hotel Paris Céline

Stay at a romantically feminine hotel

Hôtel Paris Marais Caron de Beaumarchais is a charming hotel in the heart of the Marais. The walls are covered in beautiful floral wallpaper, and each of the rooms is furnished with exquisite antiques. Staying here is like stepping back into the past.

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Stay on top of Paris

Located in the heart of Paris on the Right Bank, just off the Rue de Rivoli, Maison Albar Hotel Paris Céline offers a more modern alternative. This five-star hotel boasts cozy rooms are stocked with Lalique amenities, a luxurious Céline Spa by Cinq Mondes and Odette, a restaurant that serves contemporary dishes like roasted avocado with lovage butter. For a truly unforgettable stay, book the airy, lightfilled 1923 Room. The ceiling of this twotiered room features a large skylight, and floor-to-ceiling windows throughout provide guests with a panoramic view of the city, including the Eiffel Tower.

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A patterned room at Hôtel de Joséphine Bonaparte

Stay at a hotel fit for an empress

If you’ve ever dreamt of living like royalty, then consider a stay at Hôtel de Joséphine Bonaparte (also referred to as Hôtel de JOBO). Designed by Paris-based interior designer Bambi Sloan, the concept was inspired by Empress Joséphine Bonaparte, one of Napoleon's many wives. Joséphine had a penchant for garden roses and leopard prints, motifs that are employed throughout the hotel, from the wallpaper right down to the rose-shaped sugar cubes served with your espresso at breakfast. Each room is different, so be sure to check out the options online before booking, since the décor ranges from a room outfitted with romantic black and white toile wallcoverings to one draped entirely in leopard print.

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A quiet corner at Boot Café

Perfect symmetry inside the Palais Royal

Ideas for the solo traveler

The ethereal Versailles Gardens

Tarte citron for one at Sébastien Gaudard Pâtisserie

Revel in the beauty of a secret garden in the Marais at THE MUSEÉ COGNACQ-JAY or the SQUARE GEORGES CAIN.

Sip a cappuccino at a modern coffee shop like BOOTCAFÉ, OB-LA-DI or LA FONTAINE DE BELLEVILLE.

A secret garden at Museé Cognacq-Jay

Instead of ice cream at Berthillon, head to UNE GLACE À PARIS and sample one of their inventive flavors, like salted hazelnut, or try a pastry that resembles a work of art.

Enjoy a tangy tarte citron at SÉBASTIEN GAUDARD PÂTIS- SERIE-SALON DE THÉ DES TUILERIES on Rue des Pyramides.

Eat extra-healthy in Paris at WILD & MOON or NATIVES —both serve nourishing vegan and vegetarian dishes.

Take a sunset walk through the JARDIN DES TUILERIES and watch the sun disappear behind the Place de la Concorde and the Arc de Triomphe in the distance.

For a quiet start to the day, enjoy a stroll through the PALAIS ROYAL when it opens first thing in the morning.

The idyllic Place Dauphine

Stop by FROMAGERIE 38 SAINT LOUIS for an individual sized chèvre and purchase a baguette at the boulangerie next door. Make the short walk to the quiet treelined street, PLACE DAUPHINE, on Île de la Cité to enjoy your delicious provisions.

Slip away from the bustle of the city and get lost in the charm of the PETIT TRIANON at VERSAILLES. Since Versailles is so large (it is just shy of 2,000 acres), chances are you will find many moments of complete solitude in a place brimming with beauty and history.

Design inspiration is everywhere including at Scaria, a restaurant and cantine

Restaurants & shops worth visiting

L'ÊTRE ANGE 8, rue d'Ormesson, 75004 A boutique and restaurant hybrid in the heart of the Marais that serves a delicious brunch.

SENS UNIQUE 13, rue du Roi de Sicile, 75004 Purchase a rare fragrance at this elegant boutique that specializes in hard-to-find brands like Iconofly and Majda Bekkali. It will remind you of Paris every time you spritz it.

A memorable sandwich enjoyed at La Fontaine de Belleville

MADELEINE & GUSTAVE 9, rue Yves Toudic, 75010 A multi-tiered shop stocked with reasonably priced garden and home goods.

CAFÉ INEKO 13, rue des Gravilliers, 75003 A sunny café started by Ines de Villeneuve, a former director of merchandising at Louis Vuitton, who swapped luxury fashion for pastries made with ancient grains. The shop also sells a wide selection of regional wines and French ceramics.

FOU DE PÂTISSERIE BOUTIQUE 45, rue Montorgueil, 75002 A pastry shop from the creators of the bi-monthly food publication of the same name. Located on the bustling Rue Montorgueil, this concept shop sells creative sweets made by chefs from around the city.

Design shops in Paris are some of the best, including Madeleine & Gustave

FLEUX’ 39, rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004 Peruse this eclectic shop, especially if you are looking to fill your home with interesting pieces from pastel lamps to Normann Copenhagen chairs.

SCARIA 88, Avenue Parmentier, 75011 A hybrid restaurant, épicerie and cantine that serves a robust espresso in artful ceramic cups alongside artisanal goods like sardines packed in olive oil and Sicilian pesto. Come for breakfast, lunch or dinner and enjoy a meal under the oversized basket lamps that hang overhead.