Discovering Stockholm

Exploring the Neighborhoods of SÖDERMALM & DJURGÅRDEN

Written & Photographed by Alison Engstrom

Like quite a few Nordic destinations, Stockholm sits within an archipelago, making water an element that touches everyday life. Locals and visitors alike can travel among the city’s 14 islands by crossing one of its many bridges by bike, boat or by hopping on the tram or metro. Each neighborhood has a distinctly different flavor, including Södermalm, a hip area that caters to the bon vivant, foodie and style maven, and Djurgården, a greener part of the city with a more laidback vibe where you can enjoy renowned museums and restaurants but still feel close to nature. If you’re planning a trip to the capital of Scandinavia, we recommend a visit to these unique points of interest.

Caramels piled high at Pärlans Konfektyr.

SÖDERMALM

THE ART OF FIKA

It might be worth traveling to Sweden just to experience fika—that special time of day when you stop what you’re doing to savor a cup of coffee or tea and a bite of something sweet, with a friend or by yourself. In Södermalm, fika is a blissfully sensorial experience that combines meticulously crafted brews with delectable, sugar-encrusted cinnamon knots, or kanelbullar, enjoyed in a well-designed space. IL CAFFÉ (Bergsgatan 17) is a bakery and coffee shop that offers light fare including sandwiches made with their own bread. DROP COFFEE ROASTERS (Wollmar Yxkullsgatan 10) is the café for the coffee purist. This award-winning roastery carefully sources their beans from countries like Bolivia, El Salvador and Kenya and serves each perfectly-brewed cup in a cheerful blue and white space. Another bonus? They ship worldwide. With locations throughout the city, FABRIQUE (Götgatan 24) has made their mark with large loaves of sourdough baked in wood-fired ovens and are displayed above cases filled with tempting pastries. Grab an espresso and a cardamom bun, or kardemummabullar, and get set for a memorable treat. And a special PSA—word on the street is that they’re opening a location in New York very soon. S:T PAUL BAGERI (Sankt Paulsgatan 24) is a newcomer to the neighborhood. In addition to offering coffee and a selection of breads and sweets made right on the premises, they also feature a menu of open-faced sandwiches for lunch. If you’re looking to indulge your sweet tooth, visit PÄRLANS KONFEKTYR (Nytorgsgatan 38) to sample their knee-buckling salted caramels and chocolates—their caramel sauces make a great souvenir.

STREETS TO WANDER

Stockholm is a unique city in that so much of its visual character comes from shiny new buildings and modern architectural elements, yet the past lurks around every corner—both Södermalm and Gamla Stan (where Stockholm was founded in 1252) are prime examples of this duality. While the latter is heavily tourist-ridden, especially during the high season, you can wander the streets of Södermalm—the place that inspired Stieg Larsson’s runaway hit novel, The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo—practically tourist-free. Explore the charming cobblestone streets of SVARTENS-GATAN and FISKARGATAN, flanked by rows of weathered red wooden houses and the majestic Katarina Church. To experience things from a different angle, walk the short but scenic path up MONTELIUSVÄ-GEN to a lookout point that offers views across the water to Gamla Stan and City Hall. Farther afoot, NYTORGET is a narrow, picture-worthy street lined with colorful homes with tin roofs—when the light hits it later in the day, it’s like walking through a painting. Another stroll close by is along SKÅNEGATAN, a pedestrian street filled with boutiques, coffee shops and restaurants.

The view of Gamla Stan from a water taxi.

The cobblestone streets of Svartensgatan in Södermalm.

A vegetable salad at Fotografiska's restaurant.

The view from Monteliuvägen.

Exposed beams and glass windows add an industrial element to the restaurant's interior.

SHOPPING IN SOFO & BEYOND

The majority of noteworthy shops are located in Södermalm's SoFo neighborhood, the area located south of Folkungagatan Street. You’ll find the usual rolodex of Scandi styleforward shops like Acne and Weekday, but peppered throughout this vibrant district are smaller boutiques well worth perusing.

ERIKA PETERSDOTTER KERAMIK

Sankt Paulsgatan 11, erika-petersdotter.se

Stockholm has no shortage of great ceramicists—case in point, Erika Petersdotter. Her shop is part atelier, part boutique, and sells her signature handmade plates, cups and decorative objects.

GRANIT

Götgatan 31, granit.com

A treasure trove of Scandinavian goods for the home—think Ikea, but with a more bespoke, curated quality.

PRESS STOP

Götgatan 31

Magazine heaven, located in the same building as Granit. This shop sells titles from around the world—we especially love their selection of home and food magazines from Sweden, Norway and Denmark, all brimming with inspiration.

FAB LAB

Bondegatan 7, fab-lab.nu

A unique shop that stocks home goods and beauty products, from skincare brands like Verso and Nuori to chairs from Space Copenhagen and the chicest pencil set from The School of Life.

GRANDPA

Södermannagatan 21, grandpastore.com

With six locations around the city, Grandpa is the place to discover items for the home from HAY and Muuto, ankle-skimming dresses from Orion and Rodebjer and sleek backpacks from Sandqvist.

ATP ATELIER

Skånegatan 86, atpatelier.com

A ROSE & IVY favorite. Check out their flagship store for effortless boots, bags and other stylish goods.

HOPE

Götgatan 34, hope-sthlm.com A retailer pushing the boundaries of inclusivity in fashion. This forward-thinking brand, known for its quality, craftsmanship and ethical production, double labels all their garments to include both men’s and women’s sizing. Their motto: placing style first and gender second.

VINTAGE SHOPPING

If digging for fashion gold from the past is your thing, you’ll discover many vintage treasures in Södermalm. MYRORNA (Götgatan 79) is a branch of The Salvation Army with finds for the closet and beyond; LISA LARSSON (Bondegatan 48) offers a selection of pieces for men and women from the 1930s through the '70s. Hunt for pieces from the 50s to the '70s at JUDITS (Hornsgatan 75), a secondhand shop with a cool retro vibe. Swing by SIV & ÅKE (Sankt Paulsgatan 20), run by brother-and-sister duo Anni & Joel Jönsson, who offer vintage Levi’s in addition to jewelry and accessories for men and women. And be sure to stop by the city’s outpost of London retailer BEYOND RETRO (Brännkyrkagatan 82), where you’ll find an assortment of brands from the past that are suddenly trending again, like Dickies and Fila, all at great prices.

FOR THE LOVE OF PHOTOGRAPHY

FOTOGRAFISKA (Stadsgårdshamnen 22) is a must when visiting Stockholm. This contemporary photography museum hosts four major exhibitions each year—previous shows have included Annie Leibovitz, David LaChapelle and, more recently, the eerie yet whimsical work of fashion photographer Cathleen Naundorf. After browsing the impressive collections, head to the restaurant at Fotografiska, heralded as the “Museum Restaurant of the World” by the Leading Culture Destinations Awards. Under the helm of Chef Paul Svensson, dishes are built around a seasonal, plant-based menu with a focus on limiting food waste.

DJURGÅRDEN

The island of Djurgården makes it possible to remain within the city limits of Stockholm but still be surrounded by nature. A short walk or boat ride from the city center, this sprawling green oasis is worth spending an afternoon to explore. It's home to cultural landmarks like the VASA MUSEUM and SKANSEN, the first and oldest open-air museum in the city. For fans of musical nostalgia, the '70s or the Mamma Mia movie franchise, a pilgrimage to the ABBA MUSEUM (Djurgårdsvägen 68) is a must. Here you can immerse yourself in the cultural phenomenon that is Sweden’s most famous band. The costumes created for ABBA by designer Owe Sandström are on full display, including the kimonos they often wore on stage and the original 'Mamma Mia' outfit, as well as their many awards and a replica of their recording studio. After exiting the museum (no doubt with 'Dancing Queen' still playing in your head), make your way to OAXEN SLIP (Beckholmsbron 26) for a bite to eat. Tucked away by the water, this nautically-inspired restaurant is outfitted with hanging wooden boats and worn leather seating, and its menu is a Swedish ode to bistro dishes. Try the norrøna herring, a succulent piece of fish served on warm potato salad with browned butter and hazelnuts, or the fennel confit accompanied by Swedish cheese.

A fishing boat idles in Djurgården.

WHERE TO STAY

For accommodations, there are plenty of design-forward options to check into, including the recently opened BANK HOTEL (Arsenalsgatan 6). Housed in— you guessed it—a former bank, this boutique hotel features many interesting details, including original bronze doors and the glass ceiling inside BONNIE'S, one of three in-house restaurants. For a more classical stay, book a night at THE DIPLOMAT (Strandvägen 7C), situated on the leafy Strandvägen. This grand hotel, which was once a palace, boasts waterfront views and a restaurant specializing in Swedish and Mediterranean dishes.

Brought to you by Visit Sweden

Owe Sandström, ABBA’s costume designer leading a private tour at the ABBA Museum.

The exterior at Oaxen Slip.

A room at The Diplomat.

Boats hanging overhead at the restaurant.