Module: Negotiated Proj Stage 2 Module Leader: Matt Gill Ref No: FASH30002
AC K N OW L E D G E M E N TS I would first and foremost like to thank my tutor, Matt Gill, for his continuous support throughout this project. I am especially grateful for his time and enthusiasm. I would also like to express my gratitude to the experts involved in my research for their input and willingness to share their knowledge and experience.
For moral support I must thank Alex Rapazzini and Victoria Higginson for tolerating my ranting and keeping me sane, and Lawrence Pollard for joining me on my dangerous foray into carpentry. I would finally like to express my beloved appreciation to my parents, Sam and Krysia, for supporting me throughout my studies; to my dad for remaining calm and to my mum for doing the opposite.
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1. Cultural Context
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1. Cultural Context
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CONSUMER NEEDS Quality Durability Back to Basics Moderation Restraint
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CONSUMER NEEDS Quality Durability Back to Basics Moderation Restraint
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CONSUMER NEEDS Space Connection Simplicity Clarity Balance
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CONSUMER NEEDS Space Connection Simplicity Clarity Balance
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CONSUMER NEEDS Physical Interaction Expreiences Human Connection Tangiability
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CONSUMER NEEDS Physical Interaction Expreiences Human Connection Tangiability
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aving identified the key drivers for change within the market, this contextual insight has revealed a desire amongst consumers to slow down and escape from the digital world and the everyday complexities of modern life. JWT have recognised a shift in attitudes commenting that consumers are ‘developing a quasi-Zen desire to experience things in a more present, conscious way... drawn to the idea of shutting out distractions and focusing on the moment’ (JWT 2013).
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CONSUMER NEEDS Emotional Stimulation Time To Pause Meaningful Experiences Substance Fulfilment
Unsatisfied by consumerism and exhausted by the always-on nature of their digital lives, Millennials are beginning to re-evaluate what truly matters and prioritising personal fulfilment. In reaction to this, Stylus has described the rise of a more discerning consumer who is culling brash brands, ‘oversaturated with information in today’s fast paced daily life…a growing number of consumers are seeking quiet, contemplative spaces as well as uncomplicated products and objects with minimal aesthetics’ (2013c). There is an opportunity for brands that can create richer connections and more meaningful experiences in order to satisfy the substance shopper.
Consumers now want intimacy, meaning, story, quality, provenance and a true sense of wonder
- Cicino 2014
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aving identified the key drivers for change within the market, this contextual insight has revealed a desire amongst consumers to slow down and escape from the digital world and the everyday complexities of modern life. JWT have recognised a shift in attitudes commenting that consumers are ‘developing a quasi-Zen desire to experience things in a more present, conscious way... drawn to the idea of shutting out distractions and focusing on the moment’ (JWT 2013).
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CONSUMER NEEDS Emotional Stimulation Time To Pause Meaningful Experiences Substance Fulfilment
Unsatisfied by consumerism and exhausted by the always-on nature of their digital lives, Millennials are beginning to re-evaluate what truly matters and prioritising personal fulfilment. In reaction to this, Stylus has described the rise of a more discerning consumer who is culling brash brands, ‘oversaturated with information in today’s fast paced daily life…a growing number of consumers are seeking quiet, contemplative spaces as well as uncomplicated products and objects with minimal aesthetics’ (2013c). There is an opportunity for brands that can create richer connections and more meaningful experiences in order to satisfy the substance shopper.
Consumers now want intimacy, meaning, story, quality, provenance and a true sense of wonder
- Cicino 2014
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2. Typologies
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Consumer Profiles
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Consumer Profiles
The Couple
Yazmin and Tait are the creative couple. Yazmin works as a graphic designer, while Tait runs an independent screen-printing workshop. Together they are both representative of the experience seekers and enjoy spending their time-off travelling and socialising with friends. Brands need to work hard to keep them engaged, as they can often be sceptical of large corporations. However, they are loyal to the ones that they trust, and will share with others brands that keep them entertained with unique experiences. They both share a similar style, and frequently borrow each others clothes. Any purchase that they can both share is always seen as a worthwhile investment, and money saved for another pint at the pub â—ź
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The Innovator
Caia is a stylist working in London, representative of the early adopters driven by a desire to be in the know. Constantly seeking the next new and exciting brands she keeps up to date through her multiple digital devices when she is on-the-go. Fully immersed in the online world, Caia enjoys sharing her discoveries through social media, and is highly influential amongst her social circles. Having previously been a sporadic and occasional blogger she now prefers to use Instagram to stream her content throughout the day. Her favourite brand is COS, but due to her busy working schedule she still hasn’t found the time to visit the store to spend a gift card she received 6 months ago ◟
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The Perfectionist
Claus is an architectural design visualiser working in London. A perfectionist in many ways, he is representative of those who are buying less and choosing well. He is a perceptive consumer with a passion for creativity and enjoys visiting art exhibitions in his spare time, fuelling his appreciation for good design. Despite being out of his price range, Claus is often an aspirational browser at Mr Porter. He prefers to save for investments, rather than what he believes to be perfunctory design, from many high street fashion brands. He favours the convenience of online shopping due to his busy working hours, and is loyal to the select few brands whose quality he trusts. Despite his premium tastes, being a true minimalist at heart, he dislikes conspicuously branded items and avoids trends to ensure his purchases are lasting investments â—ź
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3. Trends
Retailer Curation
n a response to the counter-intuitive volume of choice available to consumers, a number of retailers are bucking the trend and offering a range with a more curated selection of products. Offering a more focused selection simplifies the decision making process for overwhelmed consumers. This concept seems particularly pertinent for the time-poor Millennial generation, as ‘working women and men have grown up in the world of fast fashion and have high expectations…These fashion shoppers are searching for the latest edit, the ideal wardrobe staples and a style they can own in the most convenient way to suit their busy lives’ (Pure 2013).
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Within fashion Topman has opened The General Store in London. Offering a hand picked selection of the brands best products, the stores design director Gordon Richardson has explained that the concept is aimed at ‘a discerning customer more interested in well-designed items than fleeting trends’ (Esquire 2011). Housed in a boutique concept store in Shoreditch, The General Store environment eschews the brands typical mass-market feeling. Having recently opened a second branch in Covent Garden, the success of the store indicates a willingness amongst consumers to allow a brand to do the filtering process for them. Alongside relieving consumers from the hassle of the search, WGSN have indicated that ‘refining your offer demonstrates true product knowledge. This is especially important in a retail landscape where consumers are looking to make fewer purchases, but higher-quality ones’ (Berry 2014a) ◼
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There is too much to choose from. Abundance of everything makes it very hard to make good decisions. No one has time to do all the research and that is where we fill a gap.
- Goldenfein 2014 Appendix 2.4
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There is too much to choose from. Abundance of everything makes it very hard to make good decisions. No one has time to do all the research and that is where we fill a gap.
- Goldenfein 2014 Appendix 2.4
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One of the most notable distinctions of members of this generation is their view on gender. Millennials are driving change in the traditional roles of men and women – prompting a new set of wants, needs, demands and behaviour - Firth and Raymond 2014
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One of the most notable distinctions of members of this generation is their view on gender. Millennials are driving change in the traditional roles of men and women – prompting a new set of wants, needs, demands and behaviour - Firth and Raymond 2014
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For all their virtues emails are mere pixels on a screen. Printed out they lack even the mechanical quirks of typewritten text
- O’Connell 2013
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For all their virtues emails are mere pixels on a screen. Printed out they lack even the mechanical quirks of typewritten text
- O’Connell 2013
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4. The Big Idea
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It will be about buying one fabulous item, with a great story, and something that will last.
- Savigar 2014
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It will be about buying one fabulous item, with a great story, and something that will last.
- Savigar 2014
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Aaker Model EDIT as a product
EDIT as an organisation
functional timeless versatile quality curated gender-neutral modern
accessible transparent considerate creative slow reliable consistent
EDIT as a symbol
clean monochrome symmetrical linear parallel lines equals sign graphic
EDIT as a person
convivial honest thoughtful quiet unisex selective perceptive
EDIT as an experience
personal meaningful exciting simple considered surprising tangible
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5. Brand Recipe
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Sweden is very progressive when it comes to gender equality, having even added the gender-neutral pronoun “hen” to the country’s National Encyclopedia last year - Bazilian 2014
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Aesthetic Inspiration
ndustry insight underlined the importance of a clear design direction in order to gain trust in a subscription box offering (2014, Appendix 2.4, 2.8), therefore inspiration for the development of the brand’s visual identity was gathered through exploration of relevant design movements and emerging trends (See Appendix 6 for full visual journey).
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As a unisex brand it was essential for the visual aesthetic to maintain a gender-neutral appeal. Adhering to this design cues were taken from the Scandinavian approach, as Sophia Marinho de Lemos of unisex blog
‘Girl In Menswear’ highlighted, ‘In Scandinavia, there is a lot of equality between the sexes, so gender becomes a bit redundant. Unisex dressing, stay at home dads – no one bats an eyelid’ (2014, Appendix 2.2). While acting as a cultural reference point, the Scandinavian aesthetic aligns itself well with the brand’s core values, characterized by ‘simplicity, minimalism… clean lines and an emphasis on craftsmanship and practicality’ appealing to a consumer who ‘prefers to purchase quality items that are unique rather than buy into “logo mania”’ (Gundtoft 2013) ◼
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Graphics are stripped back to almost nothing; typographic statements are carefully thought out and placed in unexpected positions‌ while delicate linears add a sharp and precise edge to the direction - WGSN 2014a
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Graphics are stripped back to almost nothing; typographic statements are carefully thought out and placed in unexpected positions‌ while delicate linears add a sharp and precise edge to the direction - WGSN 2014a
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Consumers always want and need basic items…but it is important to offer these items in a way that is constantly fresh - Hubbard 2014, Appendix 4.6
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Consumers always want and need basic items…but it is important to offer these items in a way that is constantly fresh - Hubbard 2014, Appendix 4.6
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The minimal anti-graphic trend transcends to packaging, focusing on clean white ground and carefully considered typography. Brands move away from complex designs to simplified and refined packaging/words are dissected and offset/letter spacing is pushed to the max - Watkins 2014
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The minimal anti-graphic trend transcends to packaging, focusing on clean white ground and carefully considered typography. Brands move away from complex designs to simplified and refined packaging/words are dissected and offset/letter spacing is pushed to the max - Watkins 2014
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In a world that relies heavily on digital communication, traditional and handwritten messaging is increasingly offering an element of authenticity and physicality
- Stylus 2014
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6. The Video & Photoshoot
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The mundane makes its own statement this season, as we see the elevation of the commonplace. Stuff becomes art, art becomes the everyday, and designers delve into the detail that is at the heart of daily life, highlighting the rich stories that lie behind each individual object - WGSN 2014d
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The mundane makes its own statement this season, as we see the elevation of the commonplace. Stuff becomes art, art becomes the everyday, and designers delve into the detail that is at the heart of daily life, highlighting the rich stories that lie behind each individual object - WGSN 2014d
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7. The Pop-Up Shop
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8. Communication Strategy
Brands will increasingly have to find ways of engaging with consumers offline as well as online, as consumers look for ways of temporarily disconnecting
- Stylus 2013d
Brands will increasingly have to find ways of engaging with consumers offline as well as online, as consumers look for ways of temporarily disconnecting
- Stylus 2013d
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THE SIMPLEST THINGS
...ARE THE HARDEST TO FIND.
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THE SIMPLEST THINGS
...ARE THE HARDEST TO FIND.
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Layers Unwrapped Miles Travelled Stamps Used Current Location Heading
HOW TO PLAY: ◾ ◾ ◾ ◾ ◾ ◾
Like and share our facebook page On23rd March we will pick the first winner and send the parcel their address. The winner can unwrap a layer and discover the first surprise We will then pick another winner The first winner passes the parcel on (postage is pre-paid) The surprises continue
2 213 4 Leeds
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Layers Unwrapped Miles Travelled Stamps Used Current Location Heading
HOW TO PLAY: ◾ ◾ ◾ ◾ ◾ ◾
Like and share our facebook page On23rd March we will pick the first winner and send the parcel their address. The winner can unwrap a layer and discover the first surprise We will then pick another winner The first winner passes the parcel on (postage is pre-paid) The surprises continue
2 213 4 Leeds
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This is all the kind of stuff that people really take as like a game, and you get this really amazing creativity with people taking really cool photos ‌ and trying to outdo each other. - Watson 2014, Appendix 2.8
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This is all the kind of stuff that people really take as like a game, and you get this really amazing creativity with people taking really cool photos ‌ and trying to outdo each other. - Watson 2014, Appendix 2.8
Social media platforms countdown to launch.
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Full website launches, opening online subscriptions
Editions store opens online
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Bloggers sent secret boxes
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Pop-up shop launches with Insta-walks online.
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Pass-the-parcel competition opens on Facebook
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Layers Unwrapped
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Miles Travelled
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Stamps Used Current Location
Leeds
Heading
Post-cards sent to members leading to The Cut online.
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First pass-the-parcel winners announced.
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Last minute previews leaked on social media.
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#WorthTheWait launches on Instagram
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First EDIT boxes sent out.
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Pass-the-parcel continues and tracked online.
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Consumer Journey
AWARENESS
ENGAGE
CONSIDERATION
Social media announcements and blogger involvement build initial brand awareness offline and the brand’s social media channels introduce the EDIT aesthetic through visual content.
The pop-up provides an opportunity to physically engage with a sample selection of products from the ‘Editions’, as well as participate in the ‘Instawalks’ competition. Those interacting with the brand online can join in the brand’s ‘Pass The Parcel’ competition.
During this stage a slow release of teaser videos on the brand’s social media channels builds curiosity for the first delivery and connects consumers to the subscription page.
ACTION
ENJOYMENT
ADVOCACY
At this stage the subscriber is introduced to the thrill of anticipation.
The subscriber is rewarded for their patience with the excitement of delayed gratification. The hand written letter creates a personal connection and directs subscribers to ‘The Cut’, which enriches their investment with a traceable narrative.
Social media competitions encourage the subscriber to create user generated content, spreading brand awareness through word-ofmouth.
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Future Projections & Conclusion
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The secret of happiness, you see, is not found in seeking more but in developing the capacity to enjoy less
- Socrates 469 B.C.
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The secret of happiness, you see, is not found in seeking more but in developing the capacity to enjoy less
- Socrates 469 B.C.