Raw Space by Rosie Macquire

RAW SPACE

#1 the war issue

A/W 2015

CONTENTS 20

Editors Letter

Trench Coat

Inspiration: Films & TV

Contributors

High Street

Scrapbook 06

Fashion on the Front line 08

Federica Zanello 10

Helena Wood X Marc Jacobs 12

Dr Martens

André Courrèges

Inspiration: Designer Collections 49

Tank Girl

Inspiration: Photographers

The Hippie Movement

Inspiration: Books

FROLOV 44

Trousers, Rationing &Dior's New Look

Illustration by Chantelle Barnard- Rance

Inspiration: Museums 52

Back page 1

RAW SPACE P U BLISH ER

Blurb

EDITOR IN C H IEF

Rosie Macquire

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PINTEREST Raw Space

Editor 's Word

Welcome to Raw Space. Raw Space is the journal that inspires and engages. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s raw, the beginning to motivate any great creative. We pull together research, photography, illustrations and engaging articles to cover important topics about how world events and culture can affect the fashion and design industry. Each issue, I'll bring you a new topic to discuss. More than you might think affects the fashion industry and that's why we're here. Welcome to the past, present and future. Welcome to the War Issue. #cultivate

Editor-in-Chief

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CONTRIBUTORS

Anna Milada

24, Design Intern. Illustrating just comes naturally. I take a lot of photos and do a lot of drawings and just like mashing up together everything so that the original sense of the photo or drawing is lost.

Federica Zanello

Illustrator. I am a Student at UCA studying a foundation course.

Nicolee Tsin

Photographer. I'm from Hong Kong, I study Graphic Design and specialise in Moving Image at Central Saint Martins

Illustrators

-Helena Wood

Writers

-Jessica Anderson

-Charlotte Cockell

-Maria Krisnel

-Inga Eastwood -Ciera Greenwood ....................................................................................................................................................................................................

On the Front line of Fashion Over the past few years, the military trend has

become somewhat of a fashion veteran. Whether through the use of khaki palettes, camouflage prints, or utilitarian detailing in jackets and trousers, the trend has been seen marching down the runway time and time again, as well as dominating shop floors on the high street. Over the past few years, the military trend has become somewhat of a fashion veteran. It shows no sign of surrender for the current season of SS15, with a khaki pinafore dress making an appearance at Marissa Webb, a dusty bottle green shirt and trousers combo accessorised with a camo bag at Chanel, and a more sultry, silky â&#x20AC;&#x153;little olive dressâ&#x20AC;? number at Marc Jacobs standing out as just a few examples of the many military-inspired offerings from a multitude of designers (as illustrated). The trend will likely be seen infiltrating the high street through the likes of shirtdresses and bomber jackets in the Spring/Summer, and continuing through to Autumn/Winter via parkas and chunky leather ankle boots; all in various shades of green, brown, navy and black, in keeping with the camo-palette. So what is it about the military trend that has made it so resilient? The colour ways of forrest-y green are flattering and suitable for all occasions, weathers and terrains; the utilitarian details, like pockets or metal-wear have practical implications; and the overall raw edge provides a structured and empowering, but still feminine alternative to other trends on offer, such as the sickly-sweet pastel trend, the ever-popular but oh-so-overdone floral trend, or the gaudy 90s comeback trend. It seems that the military trend will continue to be saluted as a uniform for the fashion-forward everywhere for the foreseeable future, waging war against a dull wardrobe. Words & Illustrations by Charlotte Cockell

Federica Zanello "My interest in war and it's relationship with fashion was really spontaneous. I am a always up-to-date with world news and I like to read to understand what it is going on around us and to understand how the future will be. I usually read the New York Times and sometimes Le Monde."

Helena Wood X Marc Jacobs "The illustrations I have created are inspired by fashion designer Marc Jacobs. They are from his S/S and A/W collections from 2015.The theme of these looks is based on military style clothing with a utilitarian minimalist approach. Key featurs of this style include oversized pockets and baggy sleeves with colours such as black an khaki included. The theme of war works well for creating an edgy ready-to-wear style which isn't overly feminine and allows for the iconic camouflage print"

Marc Jacobs A/W15 10

Marc Jacobs S/S15

Marc Jacobs S/S15 11

DrA Martens.

t one point in our lives we wanted a specific pair of Dr Martens boots.. admit it, I know you did, I did. Even though people wear them today as part of a fashion style, that wasn't always it’s main purpose when the first pair of shoes were created during World War II. The shoes were solely for orthopaedic purpose and were then marketed for Industrial wear. The air cushioned-soles were designed to protect the feet of men working. Although it's known as a British brand, a German doctor, Dr Klaus Märtens invented them. He created the boots to comfort his injured feet from his skiing trip. The shoes were popular amongst the older generation due to their sturdy construction and comfortable feel. After their first big production on April 1, 1960 the style began to become popular towards the younger generation, although it were merely intended to be used by soldiers, firefighters and policemen.

The 60’s brought upon different youth movements, the hippies, the equal right movement, political activism and as well as the skinheads in Britain. It was the name given to young people who shaved their heads and wore threatening dark and rebellious clothing, for a variety of political reasons. Due to the tough, chunky and intimidating design of the Docs (street name) they became a popular, footwear for this youth movement. After a few decades, the ever popularity of the Docs radical extreme look invited more rebellious youth groups such as the, Punks, Goths and the Grunge lifestyle to join the footwear movement. However, because of their informal and defiant style, some schools decided to ban their students from wearing them. To be fair, I can still remember when students in my school started wearing Docs and the teachers decided to give us warning letters saying that ‘the shoes were not smart and inappropriate to be worn as a school shoes.’ WORDS BY Maria Krisnel ILLUSTRATION BY Jessica Anderson

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Resistant Soles photography by Rosie Macquire

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TRENCH COAT Words by Inga Eastwood

The name of the trench coat derived from soldiers in the First World War after Thomas Burberry designed an officer’s raincoat which was accepted by the UK War Office. It was originally a practical garment made from waterproof gabardine alongside featuring a back yoke, buckled cuff straps, epaulettes, a storm flap on one shoulder and storm pockets. Humphrey Bogart in 1943 wore the trench coat in the film ‘Casablanca’ which assisted in popularising the male casual trend. He gave the coat ‘a business rather than military look’ (Ffoulkes, 2010) through tying the waist rather than buckling and accompanying the coat with a fedora hat. The trench coat became linked to the upper-class British lifestyle in the 1960s and to the secret service through films and television series such as ‘Inspector Gadget’. Although it was originally seen as a male trend, many women adapted the look and even now the classic trench coat designs are gender neutral yet retailers lead customers into thinking that one is more feminine than the other and vice versa. However, there has been an extensive range of interpretations of the trench coat. For example, Lacroix in 2005 displayed a female design which exaggerated the waist and used luxurious duchesse satin instead of the traditional gabardine. The surface of the coat had been beautifully hand-painted and embellished with glittery beads to give the coat an evening effect.

Since our society has recently become adapted to the way that retailers display their products in gender form, it is possible to ignore what is considered ‘normal’ when purchasing the trench coat taking into account its size. Many critics argue that this ‘gender norm’ within fashion prevents us from purchasing items that are supposedly made for the opposite gender. Twigg (2007) wrote ‘fashion distorted the natural body through subordinating practices like high-heels, corsets and objectifying fashions that reduce women to objects of sexualising gaze, rendering them unable to act effectively in the world.’ Although this idea of creating an ideal female shape makes it easier for fashion retailers to separate their ranges and continue to increase profits, it has been seen to result in social expectations.

Illustration by Jess Anderson

On the High Street

Lots of designers have interprated the 'Military Trend', but here we show you who on the high street have embraced the trend

Military backpack £38.00

Military Shirt

£46.00

T urn-Up shorts £35.00

Bomber Jacket £55.00

Chambray Shirt

£30.00

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Utility All-in-One £55.00

Coat £75.00

3 24

Military blazer £65.00

Jacket £50.00

Soft Shirt £30.00

Denim Cargo Pants £40.00

Dress £32.00

4 Dress 24.99

Skirt 24.99

Jumpsuit 29.99

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André Courrèges When I first thought about how war can affect fashion my brain first went to thoughts of camo prints, utility wear, khaki and of course Dior’s New Look. Something that didn’t come to mind was french designer André Courrèges. Born in 1923, Courrèges, started work for Balenciaga. He worked at the fashion house for 10 years, where he learnt to develop his pattern cutting. In 1961, he opened his own fashion house and worked on his first collection until 1964, when it was showcased in the Spring. The designs were a combination of trouser suits, mini dresses and skirts, that were matched with flat boots, google and helmets. The designs were heavily influenced by the events happening at the time, ‘the space race’. During the 1960’s, mid way through the cold war, the Soviet Union and the USA were in competition to be the first one on the

moon. In 1955 both superpowers announced that they would soon be launching satellites into orbit. In 1957, the Soviet Union launched the first satellite into space, call ‘Sputnik’, however the USA followed close behind, and launched their first satellite ‘The Explorer I’. The Soviet Union also lead the way by being the first to launch a man into orbit. In 1961, Yuri Gagarin, was the first man to orbit the earth in a spacecraft. After the USA also launched a man into space, in 1961, the race to moon was on. After years of experimenting with new technologies, in July 1969 the USA launched Apollo 11 into orbit and astronaut Neil Armstrong became the first man to step onto the moon. The Space Race, not only heavily influenced André Courrèges, Pierre Cardin also took an interest, as well Paco Rabanne, who designed the costumes for Sci-Fi fantasy film Barbarella (1968).

WORDS BY Rosie Macquire ILLUSTRATIONS BY Anna Milada

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Tank girl

Photography by Nicolee Tsin

Models Cara Unna & Oyin Carew Photography Assistants Ruth Babatunde & Hana Mia 31 Concept & Production Rosie Macquire

The Hippie Movement The 1960s era flourished with different

subcultures and fashion fads; the majority of youngsters were sick and tired of the conservative rules of their society. There were two major events during this time: the Vietnam War and the Women's Liberation Movement, which both gave a new idealism to what people were wearing. The people who were opposed to the Vietnam War were called ‘hippies’; this was the beginning of a decade of optimism, as people wanted something new. The hippies was one of the main fad’s of the 60s, not to mention that it was a youthful movement that made a big impact to the fashion industry. 'Flower power' was used as a slogan and symbol for the hippies ideology of not using any violence. With their floral prints, their freedom of speech and thoughts of 'peace' that spread throughout society, it was their way of showing their opposition to the Vietnam War. The creation of the hippie culture gave birth to the use of flowers, as a symbol of love, life and peace.

They expressed themselves through the clothes they wore (protesting against the Vietnam War), it wasn't a way to follow the latest trend, but a way to show their individuality. Both men and women wore wide and loose clothes, which represented their freedom. The use of natural fibres for their clothes, paisley prints and flowers around their heads and necks symbolised their devotion to nature. They argued of the importance of showing as much of the individuals natural beauty as possible. Furthermore to their natural act most people wore handmade stuff, which then haltingly gave people the idea to dye their own clothes. Which was the beginning of the colorful tie-dye style. Today the ideology of the 60s can still be seen in today's fashion scene. People still tend to express themselves through their clothes, such as those supporting specific movements or political sides wearing distinct shirts to represent their beliefs. Major fashion houses like Chanel, Anna Sui and Etro also all channeled ‘hippy chic’ in their S/S 15 collections. Words by Maria Krisnel Illustrations by Federica Zanello

Anna Sui S/S 15

Chanel S/S 15

39 Etro s/s 15

EMilio pucci 15

FROLOV

Ukrainian designer Ivan Frolov is labelled one of the country’s most promising designers by Vogue Ukraine. A promising title that will only fuel his motivation. FROLOV was founded in 2011 and embodies freedom, provocation and challenge, firstly creating capsule collections FROLOV soon became a Ukrainian sensation after winning the all Ukrainian ‘Grand Prix’ contest, out-shining all the other young designers. FROLOV says "I want people to feel comfortable, liberated and ready for anything – whoever wears the design and wherever his day or night will lead him". His AW 14/15 collection gave way to soft, sheer, tailored silhouettes in an array of blue and green hues. Whilst making his recent collection for Ukrainian Fashion Week in October 2014, Ukraine came under some strain amidst the war and protests that flooded their country, some designers including FROLOV were required to make bullet proof vests for the troops; safe to say not a normal day in the office, this war had a major impact on the fashion industry and the success of designers, some pulling out of fashion week. This demonstrates how war can affect fashion in today’s modern society, a factor that a lot of people may have deemed unheard of. Credit is due to the designers like FROLOV that were able to maintain the pressure of deadlines whilst still finding the time to support their country.

Words by Ciera Greenwood Illustrations by Chantelle Barnard-Rance

Trousers, Rationing and Dior's New Look

When WWI began, people were shocked at the massive change it brought to the society and their day-to-day lifestyle. Nothing was the same anymore and restrictions were set out until the end of WWII, due to the consequences the war caused. Some imports were also banned from specific trading ports due to the conflictions and shortages of materials that the war caused to most countries. For example in 1941 a ban on the use of Silk for Civilian clothing came into effect, as the material was greatly needed to make parachutes during the time. Due to the restrictions of raw materials, the invention and creation of man-made fibers was introduced and popularised. Fibers such Rayon and Acetate were manufactured and had been derived from plant cellulose; on the other

the creation of Nylon was a revolution in the fiber industry. Nylon was manufactured to replace Silk and Hemp, which were the main fibers needed to make parachutes. With the successful production of Nylon it was allocated for military use only and it cost half the price of Raw Silk. The impact of war affected the style and design of clothes and the creative appearance found in fashion slowly deteriorated. It was easy to distinguish people by their social statuses due to the type of materials their clothes were made from; this was all because of the unstable economy, rationing and shortages of materials. Therefore the economy and politics greatly affected the state of fashion at the time. In addition to the increase of material prices, middle class women found it difficult to afford most fabrics and this concluded to the fact that lower classes made their own clothes at home with as much materials they had or could afford.

Whilst on the opposite spectrum, upper classes had the option and money to have their clothes custom made. As men were deployed to their war stations, the women were left at home, to not only continue providing support for their family but also to act as a manly figure in factories, with manufacturing utilities for the war effort. Women’s occupations ranged from working as Nurses, to working in factories for making aircraft parts and bombs. Some of them wore long skirts to cover until their calves, while most wore trousers as they were more practical. However the idea of women wearing trousers was not fully accepted by society, people preferred for women to only wear them at work, since wearing them in public did not deem fit, as they was purely for ‘dirty’ occupations. However by WWII they represented a symbol of independence and equality with men. The end of WWII brought peace and eventually equality to the people and the women didn’t mind wearing trousers and it slowly became part of their fashion lifestyle as it gave them a chance to be equal in terms of fashion to men. Since shortages of materials was one of the biggest concerns during these hard times, it caused the people to ‘go all out’ with using materials when WWII ended in 1945. A great example of this would be the birth of Christian Dior’s ‘New Look’. Christian Dior’s Iconic ‘Bar’ Suit – 1947. Christian Dior launched his first collection in 1947, which was noted as the ‘New Look’, not only was it a way to revive France’s Internationally acclaimed Fashion Industry but it was also a major shift in the post-war fashion. The ‘Bar’ suit was one of the iconic images from his collection and it reflected the feminine body delicately in contrasts to its fitted tailored jacket, which is well fitted around the waist. The signature style included: voluptuous pleated skirt, tailored waists and soft shoulders; he used excessive layering of materials to exaggerate the small nipped-in waist of the hourglass curves of women. In addition to this revolutionary design and silhouette, the use of mass quantities of fabrics was a refreshing change to both the Fashion Industry, and the rest of the people outside its circle. The ‘New Look’ encouraged women to embrace their feminine style again after it deteriorated during the wartimes.

Words by Maria Krisnel

inspiration

Films & TV For WWI

Blackadder Goes Forth Classic BBC sitcom. This particular series is about how Edmund Blackadder, a WW1 Captain spends his time trying to escape the trenches.

Great for:

Costumes & WW1 Lifestyle

Private Peaceful (2012) The story of two brothers living in Devon during WWI.

Great for:

Different perspectives Country life and Trench Life

For WWII

Land Girls (2009-2011)

Period Drama from the BBC. Following the lives of Four Women who join the Women's Land Army, after the outbreak of World War II.

Great for:

Women's Fashion Feminist Issues Race Issues

Atonement (2007)

Romance Drama starring Keira Knightly and James McAvoy. A young writer accuses her old sister's lover of a crime he did not commit therefore changing their lives forever.

Great for:

Costumes Scenery Historical References Lifestyle of Men & Women during WWII

For Vietnam War The Deer Hunter (1978)

Drama starring Rober DeNiro & Christopher Walken.This three hour drama, shows how the Vietnam War affected the lives of people from a small town in Pennsylvania.

Great for:

Costumes Covers how their lives were affected pre, present and post war

Forrest Gump (1994)

Tom Hanks plays Forrest Gump. A slightly unintelligant man who managed to be present for many historical events.(Skip ahead to the Vietnam Scene)

Great for:

Costumes Scenery Historical References Hippy Movement

For Current Wars

Zero Dark Thirty (2012)

Follows the 10 year hunt for Osama Bin Laden after the September 11, attacks in New York.

Great for:

Different Persepctives Long Time Period Modern Military Uniform

Ukraine Fashion Week: Revolution on the Runway (Vice, 2014)

This short documentary reports on how despite in the mitts of War, Ukraine fashion designers still show collections in Ukraine Fashion Week.

Great for: Designers Factual

inspiration

Designer Collections

For Military

-Balmain S/S 2009 RTW -AF Vandevorst S/S 2012 RTW

For 'Space Age'

-Derercuny S/S 2009 RTW -Erin Fetherston A/W 2007 RTW

-No. 21 S/S 2015 RTW

-H&M A/W 2015 RTW

-Alexander McQueen S/S 2005 Mens

-Tracy Reese A/W 2015 RTW

-DSquared2 A/W 2013 RTW

-Atelier Versace S/S 2012 Couture

-Fendi A/W 2014 RTW

-Astrid Anderson A/W 2015 Mens

-Neil Barratt Pre Fall 2015 -Rebecca Minkoff Pre Fall 2015

For Hippie

-Clements Ribeiro S/S 2002 RTW

For Trench Coats

-D&G S/S 2008 RTW

-Burberry Prorsum S/S 2012 RTW

-Alberta Ferretti S/S 2015 RTW

-Martin Grant S/S 2015 RTW

-Kenzo A/W 2005 RTW

-BCBG Max Azria A/W 2012 RTW

-Sophie Theallet A/W 2009 RTW

-Burberry Prorsum A/W 2013 RTW

-Burbery Prorsum A/W 2015 RTW

-Tod's A/W 2015 RTW

-Temperly London Pre Fall 2013

-Berluti A/W 2015 Mens

-Nicole Miller Pre Fall 2015

-Pringle of Scotland S/S 2010 RTW

Photographers

Cecil Beaton

'Fashion is indestructible ' 1941, British Vogue

1937, British Vogue

Jason P. Howe

Conflict, Afghanistan

Don McCullin Vietnam 1970

Steven Meisel

'M M a k e L o v e , N o t W a r '- 2007 Vogue Italia

inspiration

Books

-100 Ideas That Changed Fashion 2011, Harriet Worsley

-Fashion that Changed the World 2014, Jennifer Croll

-Great War Fashion: Tales From the History Wardrobe 2013, Lucy Addlington

-Fear and Fashion in the Cold War 2008, Jane Pavitt

-Fashion on the Ration: Style in the Second World War 2015, Julie Summers 50

Museums

-National Maritime Museum Greenwhich, London

-Imperial War Museum London, Manchester, Cabridgeshire

-Churchill War Rooms London

-Firepower

Woolwhich, London

-Guards Musuem London

-National Army Musuem Chelsea, London

Special Thanks to Alex Jeffery Michael Macquire & Amanda Davies

By Rosie Macquire South Essex College of F uther and Higher Education