THE COMPUTED CONTEMPORARY MADELINE JANKOWSKI

At the intersection of technology and fashion, luminaries such as Iris van Herpen, Julia Koerner, and Noa Raviv are reprogramming the aesthetic of ultramodern couture. These design geniuses are no strangers to innovation, and through their architectural backgrounds, commitment to sustainability, and unparalleled artistic lenses, their works are collectively lauded as manufactured manifestations of contemporary art. Through the trailblazing and cutting-edge crafts born by these women, the world of modern abstraction is redefined and the limitations of traditional fashion design are challenged. Instantly recognizable in the discussion of technologically-generated couture is Iris van Herpen. The Dutch artist worked alongside designers like Alexander McQueen, attaining knowledge of the industry while curating her own individual aesthetic on the way to launching her brand in 2007. She continued to build her artistic expertise through collaborations with architects to strengthen her knowledge of textile development. Today, her au courant approach to fashion and the construction of couture provokes the senses while challenging the stipulations of physical design. Through the use of modern 3D printing mechanics, van Herpen’s designs demonstrate recurrent themes of femininity and sustainability while embodying the mystery and disorder of nature. At the recent Vanity Fair Oscars afterparty, actress Zooey Deschanel arrived in an Iris Van Herpen haute couture dress. The strapless ensemble shimmered through periwinkle and ivory colorways, and the elusive curves and points of the garment transformed Deschanel's figure into the shape of a lotus flower. The star told Instagram, "Thank you @irisvanherpen for making me feel like an art piece" (Deschanel,

2023). The multidisciplinary elements in van Herpen’s creations not only influence our understanding of art and design’s contemporality but also bend our perception of the contemporary’s permeation into reality.

Like Iris van Herpen, Austria-born

Julia Koerner similarly revolutionized her computation of fashion, working proactively in architectural and textile sustainability (Koerner, n.d.). The discussion of sustainability in fashion is a relatively new consideration in the design process, yet her diligence and commitment to this value has been a segway to one of her biggest achievements in the fashion industry today – her collaboration with Ruth Carter as a costume designer for Black Panther. In the collection of films, she marries the crystallinity of an innovative, advanced society to the traditions of African tribal culture – a paradigm of the past and future (Koerner, 2018). A clear emphasis on symmetry and perfection is visible in Koerner’s designs, including Queen Ramoda’s Zulu Hat and Shoulder Mantle. These visual, serviceable tapestries create a compelling juxtaposition to conventional haute couture that the of her exceptional strides in the design industry. Her art often revolves around an oxymoron, drawing a thought-provoking parallel between two opposing themes of purity and imperfection. In Hard Copy, one of her most famous collections, she created an algorithm in which a 3D printer manufactured pieces with intentional errors, mimicking the effect of a technological glitch. She utilized machinery known for its accuracy and, through her masterful manipulation, created designs with calculated corruption (Howarth, 2014). Here, the intentional intricacy of imperfection makes for an enthralling comparison to the enunciated and pristine design inspirations of Julia Koerner. However, these contrasting interpretations are precisely the beauty in wearable constructions of art. fashion realm is familiar with today. Through innovations in technology, the intricacies of handmade apparel are translated into algorithmically-generated clothing. This approach to craftsmanship, along with the increasing importance of imperishable fashion, is devising an artistic revolution – the computed contemporary.

Noa Raviv, a notable 3D printing designer, takes a different approach to the complexity of avant-garde conception. This bright-minded, revolutionary creator asserted her place on the Forbes Israel “30 Under 30” list in recognition

“Contemporary,” as an umbrella term, not only considers the dynamism of design techniques, but also accounts for new developments in sociocultural, economic, and environmental realms. These three ingenious women have made significant advancements in the fashion sphere by integrating a variety of disciplines, adding flexibility and heterogeneity to the meaning of “contemporary.” Their artwork effortlessly blends the structural integrity of architecture with the necessity of environmental preservation while sustaining their unique stylistic continuity. Each artist’s expression contributes to the shifting trajectory of the contemporary’s role in wearable art, promoting the continuation of innovative design in fashion for years to come.