A-Z of Gumbo

Alphabet Soup

By Sarah Baird

No matter where you travel along the byways and backroads of the Gulf Coast, practically every person you encounter will have big opinions about how to make the best gumbo. Some swear by okra as a gumbo thickener; others would almost come to blows over the superiority of filé powder. At a dinner, it’s common to see second cousins bickering over whether or not a roux spoon matters — and who gets to inherit their grand-mère’s heirloom gumbo cauldron. For every person with roots in the “gumbo belt” of South Louisiana, there is a one-of-a-kind take on what makes gumbo truly sing. By my reasoning, though, there are no wrong answers, just more “Why didn’t I think of that?” permutations of techniques and ingredients to learn.

The A-Z alphabet of gumbo aims to provide a fresh does of inspiration — and maybe a little nostalgia — for when you’re cooking your next pot. There are enough gumbo iterations to keep stirring up new versions well into your golden years, melding together timehonored tradition with modern tweaks and learned-in-the-gumbo-trenches best practices. Who knows, what you read next might even change your mind about how to answer that age-old question: How do you gumbo?

A IS FOR ANDOUILLE

Andouille makes no secret Of its smoke and its spice, So when it comes to gumbo, Chefs don’t think twice.

A type of sausage perfected in the parishes that snake along the Mississippi River between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, andouille’s dense, smoky depth is almost as synonymous with gumbo as the roux itself. Combining the best of German porky engineering with a dash of French je ne sais quoi, andouille’s sometimes peppery, often garlic-flecked flavor profile plays nicely with almost all other ingredients typically found in gumbos to form some of the most classic ingredient pairings around. (Sausage and chicken gumbo, anyone?) Sure, there are other types of hot sausage tossed in a gumbo every now and again — particularly among nontraditionalists — but nothing can replace the hearty ubiquity of andouille. An “andouille trail” even recently launched in Louisiana’s River Parishes so smoked meat devotees can get their porcine fill from local purveyors.

B IS FOR BREAD

Dipping crackers in gumbo Is classic — it’s true But for many of us, Nothing but French bread will do.

For some gumbo lovers, the crunch of regular ol’ saltines — or even a handful of puffy oyster crackers — is sufficient for dipping into the bowl. It’s straightforward; it’s trusted; it’s not fussy. It won’t turn any heads in a restaurant or make your friends give you side-eye. For others, though, sopping up every last drop from the bottom of the gumbo bowl is the only option — and that’s where a nice, thick piece of French bread comes in. If you’re not afraid to get a little messy, and look a little gluttonous, might I suggest swapping out ho-hum crackers for a pillowy hunk of bread? It will ensure your gumbo is good to the last drop.

C IS FOR CHICKEN

No poultry can top Chicken’s place in the pot, Whether seafood or sausage, It’s tossed in a lot.

Out of all the proteins from both land and sea that grace the gumbo pot, chicken is the most underrated. It doesn’t have the tongue-tickling burn of hot sausage, nor does it come with the innate brininess of seafaring crustaceans. It’s a plain Jane in the company of rock stars. No matter the recipe, though, it’s always there for you — just waiting for a little flicker of attention. So, next time you’re dreaming up a gumbo, why not give your chicken a little bit of extra loving: a spice-rich rubdown or a day at the seasoning spa. And if you find that your pampered chicken brings a whole new element to your gumbo, maybe next up on your list will be making a Cajun-style whole hen version.

D IS FOR DARK ROUX

White, blonde, to brown, Watch it close until dark, Every gumbo lover knows The roux gives it its spark.

An expertly crafted roux serves as the flavorful foundation for most modern gumbos (even if there’s a little filé added in), but what color the roux should be is the source of much debate among home cooks throughout South Louisiana. Some people swear that it should be the color of a brown paper bag; others are aiming for a roux that’s chocolate-bar hued; some even take it to the almost-burned edge. No matter where you fall on the sepiatinged rainbow that is the great roux debate, everyone is just working to make their roux look half as good as their grandmother’s version.

E IS FOR EGG

Unheard of to most, But folks in Eunice — they swear Adding hard-boiled egg Gives their gumbo some flair.

The one-off additions plopped into to a bowl of gumbo on a parish-by-parish basis can seem odd to those uninitiated, but when taken as part of a larger gumbo tapestry, they work to bring a hyperlocal uniqueness to Louisiana’s gumbo making. Across the Cajun Prairie — particularly in Eunice — hard-boiled chicken or quail eggs are a common addition to gumbo, while some people in Avoyelles and Rapides Parishes swear that a mashed sweet potato makes all the difference in gumbo quality. Pickles of all kinds also pop up on occasion, lending a zippy tang to a dish known for its richness.

F IS FOR FILÉ

Don’t be stingy with the filé If you want your gumbo thick, This charmed herbal powder Always does the trick.

Filé powder — or gumbo filé — is an herbal, dried-and-ground powder made from the leaves of the sassafras tree, and when you first spot it in the spice aisle, it looks a whole lot like a big jar of dust. But one shake into your gumbo and it’s obvious that this is the sort of magic dust that Cajun fairy tales are made of, thickening the gumbo so smoothly and effortlessly that few other methods can compare. That is, unless you’re in “camp okra” as the superior gumbo thickener.

In his 2019 book, Gumbo Life: Tales from the Roux Bayou, Ken Wells notes that filé’s role as a thickener for gumbo-like dishes extends back centuries, with an early Native American dish along the Gulf Coast combining saltwater scooped from the Gulf, filé and freshly caught shrimp into a stew-like meal.

And while some envelope-pushers might try to use both okra and filé in a gumbo, most South Louisianians agree: There are filé folks and there are okra people, and this is an ingredient feud where never the twain shall meet.

G IS FOR GENEROSITY

Every host will tell you, Get another bowl! Gulf Coast families know Gumbo is good for the soul.

Let’s be honest: If you’re invited to a meal in South Louisiana, there’s no way you’ll walk away from the table without feeling at least a little overstuffed. Call it the curse of the generous host, but more is more when it comes to meals along the Gulf Coast: If you’re not going back for a second bowl of gumbo, someone will encourage you to do so. Maybe even several people. After all, if you’re not cleaning your bowl and headed back for round two, the cook might not think you’re enjoying it…and there’s no need to risk offending anyone.

H IS FOR HOT SAUCE

Looking for a kick of heat Or a five-alarm fire? Splashing hot sauce on your gumbo Will take the spice levels higher.

We all know someone who is a true hot sauce head: a person so deep into capsaicin levels and the Scoville scale that practically every other condiment in their house has been replaced in favor of the spicy stuff. They put hot sauce on everything — and gumbo is no exception. Even those without the palate of a fire-breathing dragon enjoy a dash (or 12) of hot sauce in their gumbo, whether it’s Crystal, hot pepper vinegar or some homemade concoction that could likely singe off someone’s eyebrows. The amount of hot sauce people stir into gumbo might seem excessive at times, but never fear — the gumbo can take it.

I IS FOR INGENUITY

Traditionalists gasp At gumbo competitions, When newfangled ingredients Are on exhibition.

Gumbo competitions tend to bring out everyone’s creative side — the goal is to show the judges something they’ve never seen before, after all — but when you’re a gumbo purist, there can be a sense that too many nontraditional items can, quite literally, spoil the pot. Whether home cooks compete at neighborhood charity events or the World Championship Gumbo Cookoff in New Iberia, there are those who fall firmly in the “keep it classic” camp…and others willing to see what gumbo can do. The best way to judge the outside-the-box versions is on the only merit that really counts: Is it delicious?

J IS FOR JAMBALAYA

A close cousin to gumbo, That much is true, But if you mix these two up — Then shame on you.

Both dishes involve rice, a bevy of meats and a roux, sure. But be forewarned: There are few greater sins than conflating jambalaya and gumbo. If you’re uninitiated in the ways of the Cajun or Creole table, consider yourself warned. (You’ll thank me later.)

K IS FOR K-PAUL’S

Paul Prudhomme Made gumbo a sensation, Bringing Cajun flavor To the entire nation.

It’s impossible to talk about the evolution of gumbo from regional dish to national sensation without mentioning the late, great Cajun chef and Louisiana icon Paul Prudhomme, who is a foundational example of how a cook can go from celebrated to fullblown celebrity — and bring a dish rocketing to fame right alongside. The mastermind behind longtime French Quarter restaurant K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen, author of dozens of books, creator of an expansive seasoning line, and star of five PBS programs spanning two decades, Prudhomme introduced Louisiana cuisine to the masses, with gumbo leaving the strongest impression out of all the classic Cajun dishes. And while the gumbo made by a family in Wichita based on one of Prudhomme’s old recipes might be a little tamer than many along the Gulf Coast, the dish brings the same spirit of delicious inclusivity wherever it goes.

L IS FOR LIQUOR

Sipping a beer with your gumbo Is as classic as it comes, But some mix it up With scotch, sherry or rum.

Beer and gumbo go together like football and tailgating, but what about all the other drink pairings? For a seafood gumbo, many people prefer to pair it with an off-dry Riesling, while earthier, sausage-heavy versions can mesh comfortably with an Albariño. Cocktails are another story; I’ve always been partial to a La Louisiane with mine, which stirs up rye, sweet vermouth, Benedictine, absinthe and Peychaud’s Bitters. Still, you can’t go wrong with a light Pilsner — or whatever happens to be in the cooler.

M IS FOR MAGNALITE

Magnalite is old-fashioned, To put it quite bluntly, But it’s still the favorite cookware In all of Cajun country.

There are certain types of cookware that inspire an almost religious devotion among home cooks: cast iron, copper and ceramic, to name a few. But the most loyal fans have pledged their allegiance to the shiny sturdiness of Magnalite pots and pans — particularly for gumbo-making in South Louisiana. Made of a unique, durable aluminum and magnesium alloy, these gleaming silver kitchen tools have a denser base and thinner sides than most of their cookware counterparts, allowing the pots to heat more evenly and distribute heat faster during the cooking process. Magnalite cookware can go from stovetop to oven — and refrigerator to stovetop — without missing a beat, with an ability to sear meat to perfection while helping ingredients and flavors naturally mingle. Perhaps the most iconic of all the Magnalite pieces is the ovalshaped roaster, a pot that resembles a very stout rocket ship or chunky UFO. If you see your grand-mère pull this famed vessel out of the cabinet, the odds are high that gumbo is what's for dinner.

N IS FOR NECKS

Turkey neck gumbo Has a cult that’s devoted, One bite — they say — And your current version’s demoted.

Those who have been in the gumbo business for some time know that when it comes to different varieties of meat in a gumbo, there really are no hard-and-fast rules. Dried shrimp? Gizzards? Oysters? Toss it all in a pot and see how it tastes!

“I discovered in my travels and in scores of interviews that there is widespread ignorance — mine included — about what other people put in their gumbo. I learned from older gumbo cooks in particular that the protein that went into the dish in previous decades could be far more eclectic and exotic than today’s repertoire of chicken, duck, sausage and shellfish,” writes Ken Wells in Gumbo Life, noting that a hairdresser once told him her maw-maw put skinned snake meat into a gumbo. “[John] Folse told me that back in his

grandfather’s day, his family, who helped to settle Louisiana’s River Parishes, put squirrel, smoked raccoon and rabbit in their gumbos — whatever they could catch.”

Turkey neck gumbo has a specifically loyal following. The supple, rich flavor benefits specifically from the low-and-slow, all-day simmer of the gumbo pot.

O IS FOR OKRA

As a thickener and a vegetable, Okra’s gumbo role shines, If only some people Could get over the slime.

“Everything about okra is slime this and slime that until we get to gumbo. As soon as the topic of gumbo comes up, there is a switch in terminology and suddenly we’re praising okra’s magical thickening effect,” writes Chris Smith in his 2019 book, The Whole Okra: A Seed to Stem Celebration.

In the centuries-long disagreement over what thickens gumbo more effectively, the green, finger-like vegetable is historically critical to the dish. Okra draws a direct line between gumbo and its West African roots (the words "okra" and "gumbo" even share an etymological origin) with records of okra soup being prepared and eaten by enslaved Africans in New Orleans appearing from as far back as the mid-1700s — years before the arrival of Acadians to Louisiana.

“Multiple early references to gumbo as both a thickened soup and a plant (okra) make me think that gumbo is more clearly linked to okra than [filé],” Smith writes. “Perhaps [filé] was first used as a winter alternative or developed as an individual stew that later melded with the okra preparation and assumed the same name.” The plot — and gumbo — thickens.

P IS FOR POTATO SALAD

21“Potato salad with your gumbo?” “Why, yes, please!” Those in the know Are happy to appease.

Potato salad in gumbo — as a substitute for rice, served on the side or thrown in the mix alongside — is a Gulf Coast tradition for many that’s a prime example of don’t knock it until you try it. The creaminess of potato salad pairs almost seamlessly with the gumbo’s velvety depths, offering up a swirling bite of rich goodness with each spoonful. Of course, it’s not for everyone. A 2021 poll from The Times-Picayune revealed that 50% of readers surveyed prefer rice in their gumbo; 12% like potato salad only; 37% said they enjoy both rice and potato salad in (or with) their gumbo; and a contrarian 1% said they wanted neither rice nor potato salad.

Q IS FOR QUICK COOKING

People know gumbo Is an all-day affair; Those who take shortcuts Can’t even compare.

We all know that gumbo is a time-consuming dish, and the sort of all-day (or multi-day) activity that folks tend to structure entire weekends around. “There’s no rushing it!” old-timers will tell you. There are, however — ahem — shortcuts that can be taken, like buying a jar of pre-made roux or gumbo base if you’re really in a pinch; using frozen vegetables instead of chopping them up fresh; and even shredding a store-bought rotisserie chicken instead of searing off the meat yourself. Is this considered blasphemous to many? Absolutely. Do people still do it all the time? Of course. The true test is whether you can taste the difference.

R IS FOR RECIPE CARDS

Does your grand-mère remember Off the top of her head, Or have her recipe written On notecards instead?

Like all good heirlooms, gumbo recipes are passed down from generation to generation; many times, in the handwriting of the recipe’s original creator from several generations back. Old-fashioned recipe cards, ingredient lists scribbled inside of a church cookbook, or instructions jotted down on a piece of yellowing notebook paper are among the most precious culinary keepsakes in the kitchen, not only because they help to preserve delicious dishes, but because they offer a constant connection to the past. And while your mamaw might’ve been able to pull off the dish from memory, replicating how she makes gumbo so perfectly will probably require a little bit more of a (handwritten) reminder.

S IS FOR SHRIMP

Seafood gumbo without shrimp? Why, that’d never happen! You’d even catch them yourself While playing sea captain.

Of all the oceanic critters that find themselves tossed into a pot of gumbo, shrimp is far and away the most iconic. Serious shrimp lovers know that one of the best ways to ramp up the flavor of a seafood gumbo is homemade shrimp stock — and maybe a few dried shrimp in the mix. For many devotees, there’s no such thing as excess: more shrimp is shrimply delectable.

T IS FOR TOMATO

Suggest tomato in gumbo And be prepared to be booed, For many die-hard fans The very thought is just crude.

Outside of scraps about okra versus filé for thickening, few gumbo feuds run as hot as

the argument over whether or not tomatoes belong in the dish. Some believe the divide over tomatoes stems from whether you learned to cook gumbo Creole-style — and are therefore pro-tomato — or in a Cajun fashion, where the addition of tomato would be roughly akin to throwing a dirty sock into the pot. Further supporting this line of thinking is that Creole gumbo tends to be more seafood forward, meaning tomatoes play nicely with it, while Cajun gumbo has a more terrestrial bench of ingredients. What about a duck and oyster gumbo, you say? I don’t know the right answer, but all I can advise is this: Add tomato at your own risk.

U IS FOR UTENSILS

A sturdy wooden roux spoon Stirs the pot with ease, Certain utensils Help make gumbo a breeze.

Sure, there are people who stir with any spoon that’s clean and cut with whichever knife is handy. But for others, utensils are as much a part of the process of making gumbo as the ingredients themselves. For many cooks, that might mean an heirloom ladle passed down through generations, and for others it might be a roux spoon: The tool specifically crafted with straight, slanted edges to keep the roux moving and achieve a darn-near-perfect consistency. But even with such a singlepurpose utensil, the basic rule of roux can’t be forsaken: Don’t stop stirring!

V IS FOR VEGETABLES

Bell pepper, onion and celery Complete the trinity, Straight from the garden Is best — don’t you agree?

No matter how you gumbo, you’re definitely not making it without the holy trinity of bell pepper, onion and celery…right? Right. Whew, thank goodness.

W IS FOR WEATHER

Is there “gumbo weather” Or can you eat it year ’round? Some say it's off limits Until the heat cools down.

Superstitions are thick in the air throughout South Louisiana…particularly when it comes to food. As far as gumbo is concerned, some people believe that a specific season exists when it’s appropriate weather for gumbo eating, beginning with that first nip of winter when the humidity goes from brow-mopping hot to a light glisten on one’s temples. Any other point in the year that’s not “gumbo weather” time? The dish is mostly off limits. (See letter Z for an exception.) Sure, there are some pragmatic reasons a robust bowl of andouille and chicken gumbo might not be the most popular choice for a July picnic, but when it comes to stirring up bad luck, I tend to think year-round gumbo-eaters are in the clear. It’s just too delicious to be confined to a season.

X IS FOR X-TRA RICE

How you layer your gumbo Can be quite revealing, For many, extra rice Seems quite appealing.

Glance into the depths of several gumbo bowls in a row, and you’ll see a completely different ideation of what constitutes the perfect rice-to-gumbo (or gumbo-to-potatosalad) ratio for each person. Some starchy enthusiasts heap on extra rice — practically turning the gumbo itself into a topping — while others put such a measly scoop of rice in the bowl it’s hardly worth bothering. Structuring a bowl of gumbo is an art form; years of trialand-error work will reveal the perfect-for-you balance.

Y IS FOR YESTERDAY’S GUMBO

Like wine and women Gumbo gets better with age, The leftovers might even Take center stage!

It’s no secret that gumbo belongs to an elite class of food — like Chinese takeout and lasagna — that tastes better the second (or third) day. The extra time a gumbo’s flavors spend commingling while refrigerated together overnight allows all the bits to congeal into a thicker, fuller whole. So, no, it’s not just your imagination: Yesterday’s gumbo actually does taste better.

Z IS FOR GUMBO Z’HERBES

A Maundy Thursday specialty Of Chef Leah Chase, She cooked with a magic That can’t be replaced.

Gumbo z’herbes is a Lenten season gumbo that stands out from the crowd, with its nine (or other odd number) types of greens, occasionally vegetarian construct, and ties to none other than the queen of Creole cuisine herself, Leah Chase, who served the dish annually for throngs of guests at Dooky Chase until her death in 2019. While the religious lore goes that the nine different greens in gumbo z’herbes represent the nine different churches visited by Jesus on Good Friday, Ms. Chase had a different spin on the meaning. “You will acquire a new friend for every kind of green in the pot — and we hope one of them is rich!”