'Tis the Seasonings

’Tis the Seasonings

By Poppy Tooker

Seasoned salt is a huge business in the United States, with sales across the category totaling more than $100 million annually. The concept was born in Beverly Hills, California, in 1938 when Lawry’s Prime Rib Restaurant began retailing their seasoned salt. Nowhere on earth has that category flourished like in South Louisiana, where all the Maméres and Péres have always had their own special blend of seasonings.

Many Louisiana leaders in the field, like Tony Chachere and Paul Prudhomme, included their original spice formulas in their debut cookbooks, but after at-home chefs clamored for a ready-made product, both founded spice companies that continue to lead the field today.

Many, many mom-and-pop businesses started by jarring their “secret” family spice recipe. Rouses Markets stocks hundreds of varieties to choose from on their grocery store shelves — perfect for adding a true taste of Louisiana to this year’s holiday menus. Along with premade mixes, Rouses Markets guarantees the freshest dried herbs and spices for those to DIY their own family’s recipes by crafting special holiday gifts.

Take Chef Frank Brigtsen’s advice: “If you cook with spice blends, you’re halfway to good flavor.”

TONY CHACHERE:

Long regarded as an “Ole Master” in the kitchen, Tony Chachere was quite a gregarious character. Trips to his hunting and fishing camp in the Atchafalaya Swamp guaranteed delicious food.

“Tonight, I’m gonna make ’em cry,” he was famous for boasting as he stirred up a pot of Louisiana homestyle deliciousness.

His inimitable, sometimes spicy, sometimes salty flare remained a closely guarded family secret until Tony Chachere published his Cajun Country Cookbook in 1970, in which he revealed the recipe for his own seasoning blend. Two years later, his Creole Seasoning was so popular, Tony came out of retirement to begin commercially producing it himself. With his secret to success packaged in a bright green canister, the world opened its doors to Tony. His distinctive accent and proclivity to sip a little wine while he cooked made Tony a popular guest on national talk shows, too.

From that original Creole blend, Tony grew the company with flavor varieties for every taste including no salt, more spice or more heat. He never tired of creating new products under the Famous Creole Cuisine banner. In Tony’s hometown of Opelousas, his family’s fourth generation continues the company’s tradition, offering more than 50 different food products including sauces, salad dressings and boxed mixes.

PAUL PRUDHOMME’S MAGIC SEASONINGS:

In 1975, Chef Paul Prudhomme was tapped by Ella Brennan to become the first American-born chef at Commander’s Palace. Since his earliest days in professional kitchens, the Opelousas native mixed his own special seasoning blends, tucking them into little foil packets he carried with him everywhere. Prudhomme’s unique take on Cajun and Creole food led the way in what became a national movement heralding America’s homegrown food revolution.

By 1979, Chef Frank Brigtsen was Prudhomme’s apprentice, learning the trade alongside the great chef. “One of my tasks was mixing Paul’s spice blends. I’d make a half-gallon at a time, right there in Commander’s kitchen,” he remembered. Once Prudhomme opened his own restaurant, K-Paul’s, his proclivity for sharing those “magic seasonings” prompted him to open his own spice blending company in 1982.

Brigtsen credits Prudhomme’s Magic Seasoning Blends with playing a major part in the consistency that is a vital element in any restaurant’s success. After nearly 40 years, Brigtsen still relies on Magic Seasoning in his kitchen. “Although I have created and use some blends of my own now, I couldn’t cook without the foundation of Paul’s spice blends. We still use three of them every day,” Brigtsen said.

“Salt is the best flavor enhancer,” he continued. “In the professional kitchen we talk about ‘bringing it up to salt,’ but since salt is also the cheapest ingredient, it’s often overused in other blends. From the start, Paul only used the best ingredients in Magic Seasoning. He spent a lot of time and money sourcing carefully, and made sure only the finest equipment was used at his plant.”

Over time, Magic Seasoning grew to include over 60 dried spice choices along with sauces and smoked meats. Although Chef Paul passed away in 2015, his unique flavors endure thanks to the company he started more than four decades ago.

EMERIL’S ESSENCE:

Chef Emeril Lagasse had big shoes to fill when he was tapped to succeed Paul Prudhomme at Commander’s Palace in 1982. The 23-year-old Massachusetts native became a sensation at the famed establishment, but left to open his own restaurant just seven-and-a-half years later.

Like Prudhomme and Chachere, the television audience loved Emeril, and he became an important player in the early days of the Food Network. Urging audiences to “Kick it up a notch,” he became famous for tossing in a handful of seasoning as he boisterously shouted “Bam!” Naturally, a seasoning line was in order, beginning with a blend named after his successful TV show, Essence of Emeril

From that original seasoning blend, Emeril’s products grew to include BBQ and pasta sauces, mustards, stocks and panko bread crumbs, along with small appliances, cookware, cutlery and even kitchen-safe footwear. Take Chef Emeril’s advice and kick it up a notch this holiday season.

SLAP YA MAMA:

A fascinating saint wellknown for his vow of poverty, humble nature and deep connection with all aspects of the natural world — from animals to the Back in 1996, Anthony “TW” Walker couldn’t find a seasoning with an authentic Cajun flavor that didn’t include too much salt for his taste. Gathering his whole family together, they experimented at home in their kitchen until they found a formula that was just right. The customers at his 24-hour convenience store and deli in Ville Platte resoundingly agreed.

The new Cajun seasoning was such a big hit, it needed its own special name. TW was already well known for his “World Famous Slap Ya Mama Atomic Potatoes,” so his wife “Mama Jen” insisted he use the name for his seasoning blend. The good son had certainly never slapped his mama Wilda Marie so she happily gave her blessing.

From that original seasoning mix, Slap Ya Mama expanded with sauces, dinner mixes and other specialty food products — including a cinnamon-sugar blend dubbed Kiss Ya Mama. For more than two decades now, Slap Ya Mama has delivered authentic Cajun taste to Louisiana and beyond.

CHEF GONE MAD:

Native New Orleanian Chef Derek Robinson, Jr. was already well-known for his unique take on the foods of his hometown when he took notice of the health issues that plagued so many in his community. Determined to make a difference, he set out to develop seasoning blends that would deliver both flavor and wellness.

Robinson’s first two products, Salt Free Smoked Garlic & Herb and Salt Free Chicken & Fish, were so successful he soon expanded to include Cajun Nola, an all-purpose seasoning designed for everyday use. Manufactured in the Crescent City, Cajun Nola became the premiere product of Chef Gone Mad, receiving both Cajun and Creole certification. The distinctive cans feature Robinson wearing his wide, trademark grin, knife and fork in hand, ready to deliver an authentic taste of his heritage.

C’EST TOUT:

Born from a bumper crop of bell peppers, this unique product is the brainchild of Youngsville native Drew Barra. Chopping up the peppers, he began to experiment with drying them. “If I’ve got peppers, what about the rest of the trinity?” he wondered, referring to the classic seasoning mix of bell pepper, celery and onion found in virtually every Creole and Cajun recipe.

Soon, onions and celery followed the peppers into the dryer. Experimenting until he achieved the perfect blend of white and green onions, red and green peppers and celery, Barra also developed a proprietary dehydrating method, ensuring the freshest taste. Suddenly Barra discovered he had a new business on his hands.

Different from typical shake products, C’est Tout’s dried trinity mix is intended to be rehydrated for use. By soaking in warm liquid for two minutes, four tablespoons of C’est Tout can be transformed into a full cup of seasoning. An added bonus comes from using butter, stock, wine or fortified spirits in the rehydrating process, which adds an incredible layer of flavor. Just one jar gives you more than five cups, both a huge timesaver and a delicious alternative to fresh this holiday season.

LOUISIANA PEPPER EXCHANGE:

You won’t find Louisiana Pepper Exchange’s products on the spice shelves. The pepper mash used in their product has such a fresh flavor that it’s stocked in the produce department.

The founder of this innovative brand, Chris White, is an engineer who cracked the code on how to economically transport fresh pepper mash in large quantities from all over the world. Placing his company a mere 20 yards from the Port of New Orleans allows White to keep up to three million pounds of mash on hand in his 25,000-square-foot facility on Tchoupitoulas Street.

If your holiday dinner needs a little kick, Louisiana Pepper Exchange has all the spice you need to make this year memorable without the dangers of handling fresh, hot peppers. From jalapeño and cayenne to chipotle and habanero, you add only the pepper you need by the spoonful. From a spicy cocktail to just the right amount of heat in this year’s oyster dressing, Louisiana Pepper Exchange has got you covered.