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The Chilterns by David Small

THE CHILTERNS By David Small

The Chilterns is a large area of chalk escarpment situated north west of London, from Goring Gap to Hitchin, which could loosely be regarded as middle England. In 1965 the Chiltern Hills were designated as an area of outstanding natural beauty, which with its stunning countryside offered high levels of protection. It’s quintessential nature includes rolling countryside, ancient woodlands, rural market towns, agriculture and of course a plentiful population.

I am lucky to live near the highest point of the Chilterns (Haddington Hill 267m) in the small town of Wendover with Coombe Hill, 7m lower, affording it some protection from the prevailing weather incoming from the south west.

Most of my photography involves early morning trips to the local areas such as hills, woodland and reservoirs. I don’t generally travel too far! My choice of location is often dependant on weather conditions.

We are lucky here in that we don’t generally experience the extremes of weather suffered by other parts of the country, the ferocity of weather fronts dissipated over the course of the journey inland.

The ancient Icknield Way runs along Ivinghoe Beacon in Hertfordshire. Stretching from Norfolk to Wiltshire, it is one of the oldest tracks in Great Britain, pre-dating the Romans. This image is a series of 5 portrait shots stitched together showing Ivinghoe Beacon right of centre. A pre-dawn excursion, patiently waiting for sunrise.

Although a rural area, it’s unusual to see such a large expanse with is little human intervention.

Pitstone Windmill, a stones throw from Ivinghoe Beacon, is the oldest windmill in Britain and Grade 2 listed. It is now owned by The National Trust. This particular image was taken, unusually for me, one evening as Covid restrictions eased last year.

The beautiful light was warm and enhanced the wheat field, gently swaying in the breeze. Broken cloud drifted across the sky. As much as we love a clear blue sky, photographically, it can leave us wanting. The main element and focal point being the windmill itself. It was made all the more special for me, as my son accompanied me on this occasion.

No photographic journey across the Chilterns, for me, should pass up the opportunity of bluebells. During late April and early May parts of the Chilterns are adorned in swathes of vibrant Hyacinthoides non-scripta, or more commonly known as bluebells.

The Wendover arm of the Grand Union canal was opened in 1799. Plagued with leaks from the onset, the arm is dry in parts and is undergoing a restoration program. It is not currently navigable, yet it provides a wonderful, undisturbed location for wildlife to flourish. Kingfishers are a regular sight. This image shows a small stretch as the early sun rises over Wendover woods. The soft but warming light illuminates the trees opposite an opening in the tree lined cover.

Another classic scene across the Chilterns, like many parts of the country is harvest time. Capturing fresh hay bales before they are stored away for later use, is a well trodden path for many photographers.

Early morning or late evening often provides delicate light and never ending shadows. A bonus is often “access all areas” without causing damage to crops. As we capture natural scenes it is important that we preserve crops, habitat and livelihood. The old adage “take only pictures, leave only footprints” is more relevant than ever in these changing and challenging times for our planet.

These bales were taken near Tring on the Hertfordshire/Buckinghamshire border. As usual, I had the place to myself before heading home for breakfast.

“A cold winters morning was the inspiration for this shot. Calm and crisp, and a more forgiving hour”

Several reservoirs were built to serve the Grand Union canal in the heyday of water transportation and the industrial revolution. (See next Page)Whilst now redundant in the need for transport, they still feed the canal system which serves a greater importance for leisure and wildlife. The Tring reservoirs are a site of special scientific interest (SSSI) due to the large variety of wildlife they support, partially due to their location at the base of the chalk escarpments.

This final image is typical of the chalk based Chiltern Hills. Short, sharp and steep. This particular hill is a favourite of mine. Overlooking the pretty village of Ellesborough, Beacon Hill is not large in height but plentiful in stature. I consider myself a fit individual but this brief excursion always leaves me gasping for air. This photograph shows the very top of the hill, the undulations accentuated by the first rays of sunlight.

This hill also features along the Icknield Way and so provides a steady stream of people treading the same footsteps as others have for thousands of years. Perhaps they could see the beauty even then. A dawn outing will often secure a private moment for anyone wishing to make the effort but you are likely being watched. A CCTV camera sited in front of the trees, protecting the Chequers Estate to the other side, must have captured me out of breath many times!

The Chilterns are perhaps an overlooked part of the country. Not as spectacular as the dramatic vista’s of the Lake District, the foreboding emptiness of Dartmoor or the isolation and sheer power that the coast can afford. If you take time to seek out and appreciate the smaller, more delicate parts the Chilterns have to offer, then you will be rewarded with pleasant views, gentle walks, a variety of landscapes, rivers, canals, crystal clear chalk streams, along with plentiful and varied wildlife, pretty towns and villages. Perhaps even a welcoming pub or cafe to refresh

All Images © David Small

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