6 minute read
The Angelic Pardons of Morbihan
“Attention!, Gardez-vous!” The second or so that it took to translate the shouts into “Look out!” was very nearly my last, as a large angel swept past my head far too close for comfort. As a one-time aerial photographer I have had my share of near misses, but obstructing an angel in its final approach.... well, I mean... ERIC HOULDER LRPS
Perhaps a few words of explanation may convince sceptical readers that this really did happen, though the fact that the angel was made of wood and plaster may possibly provide a touch of veracity to the tale. For well over twenty years, my wife and I were in the habit of spending August with relatives in Brittany; to be precise, the Morbihan Department that comprises the south western part of the province. Close to our pied a terre is the tiny hamlet of St Nicodème, and it was here that I first saw a poster advertising a forthcoming Pardon. My copy of the Michelin Guide Brittany, explained that a Pardon is an annual service in which local people, sometimes in traditional costume, meet to share a service followed by less religious celebrations including a meal. However, the poster mentioned the descent of an angel. This I had to see. Arriving early, I noticed a thick rope fastened high on the church tower with the other end fixed securely to a metal stake hammered into the tiny village green. Nearby, a bonfire of brushwood stood ready to light. Elsewhere in the village, drinks stalls alternated with others selling religious statuettes, and even toys. As the time of the service approached, priests led a procession of local parishioners many carrying banners and statues into the church. Benches had been placed outside for the overflow congregation to whom the service was relayed by loudspeakers. Intriguingly, several men appeared on the tower balcony and proceeded to hang an angel on the tensioned rope. The angel carried a rose in one hand and a lighted taper in the other and was supported upright by a heavy counter-weight below. At the conclusion of the service over an hour later, the procession reformed and headed directly towards the green. When all were gathered around, the priest said a few words, a signal gun was fired and the angel sped down the rope carrying a lighted taper. Anxious for a good picture, I neglected to allow for the sag of the rope and came close to being brained! Meanwhile, the angel arrived at the bottom, the priest took the taper, and lit the bonfire. This was incredibly photogenic, especially to a Northern atheist from a C of E background. Not content with just one descent, the men at the base of the rope spun the angel around, waved to their colleagues on the tower, and it was hauled back up, to repeat the descent several times- minus taper – for the benefit of the visitors. Finally, everyone trooped off to a nearby paddock where a meal was being cooked by yet more dedicated locals. During the afternoon and evening, a Breton group played traditional music to which everyone, from toddlers to OAPs danced. Crêpes and drinks were being consumed beneath canopies, marquees, and under the stars, a gathering called Fest Noz, (pronounced ‘Fesh Noh’) which according to our very old Breton friend – since sadly departed - translates to Night Feast. Almost thirty years on, little has changed. True,
Notre Dame de La Houssay. The candlelit procession through the woods lit by flash. Minolta X500, 35-70mm lens, Fujichrome Provia 400.
Notre Dame de La Houssay. (Vertical) The candlelit procession through the woods lit by flash. Minolta X500, 35-70mm lens, Fujichrome Provia 400.
Quelven. A small child is lifted to kiss the statue! Minolta X500, 35-70mm lens, Fujichrome Provia 400.
the angel’s attendants now carry smartphones, but still use a gun to signal the descent – perhaps they enjoy firing a gun on a Sunday? Some years ago the angel was forbidden to carry the taper lit, in spite of the presence of the local pompiers (firemen), so the officiating priest now surreptitiously carries a lighter beneath his robes. The effect is the same. I soon realised that St Nicodème’s Pardon is not the only one involving an angelic descent. Not far north, at Quelven, a taller tower is the launch pad for a smaller, prettier angel. Indeed, so popular is the event at Quelven, the second most important Pardon in Brittany, that the angel descends on Assumption Day – 15th August, and also on the Sunday nearest, now called ‘The Sunday of the Angel.’ In contrast to Quelven, the tiny village of La Ferrière holds its own Pardon on the last Sunday in August. It is simpler, and in some ways more moving. Following the usual service and procession, a large wood and plaster ‘Dove of Peace’ descends from the miniscule tower to a makeshift docking bay consisting of a tractor and straw bale! The tower is so small that it is possible to see the ‘launch team’ very well indeed, and note the exertion on the face of the man who winds the dove back up the rope. This flying object is large, heavy and would certainly cause serious injury to anyone unwise enough to stand in its flight path. A few miles away, at Notre Dame de La Houssay on the outskirts of Pontivy, the Pardon is held in the evening. There is no flying object but the villagers process through woodland carrying lighted torches
and candles. Again, the simple faith exhibited is very moving. Sadly, at all these events, it tends to be the older half of the population who join in the religious side of the Pardons. The local people who organise and attend these Pardons and Fest Noz actively welcome visitors and even advertise the events with posters. However, you do have to keep an eye open for these, and check times carefully. Sometimes the local tourist office has the information, but bear in mind that every region in France has similar sounding village names, often close together! Allow plenty of time for parking – usually on stubble fields – and seeking a good position to shoot it all from. A useful tip is to note the wind direction. I failed to do this one year, and nearly suffocated as I was downwind of the bonfire. As photographers we tend to view such events as picture subjects, but it is important to bear in mind that prioritising the images is often seen as arrogance by older locals, and as discourtesy by all. Be polite and respectful, and better images will result.
ERIC HOULDER LRPS
St Nicodeme. The (somewhat battered) angel is readied for its Action Replay. Lumix G1. 14-45mm lens.
