March 20, 2008
R.S.V.P. Latini
AA study study in in color, color, aroma, aroma, flavor flavor and and texture. texture.
R.S.V.P. Wines Food Travel
Also in this issue
Publisher RSVP Hospitality Communications
A brief history of the pasta
Editor Amarylis Dávila adavila@rsvp-winesfoodtravel.com Partner Web Site www.rsvp-winesfoodtravel.com Advertising 787 221 2384, San Juan, Puerto Rico sales@rsvp-winesfoodtravel.com Mailing Address 1357 Ashford Avenue, Suite San Juan, Puerto Rico 00907 Contributions: If you are interested in publishing hospitality related material, you may send a written copy, a cd file to our mailing address above, with a picture of the author and a statement certifying that the material supplied is original. Please include contact information including a telephone number and an email address. We reserve the right to publication and to edit the written style of the story to fit our guidelines. Publication will be considered according to relevance and content. Send any inquiries to hospitality@journalist.com Press Releases: Please send publicity material to the mailing address stated above. We reserved the right to publication and to edit the written style of the story to fit our guidelines. Publication of any material will be considered according to relevance and content. Please include contact information including a telephone number and an email address. A statement indicating that you are authorized to feed the material by the brand’s, company’s or service’s officer, and your professional position, public relations, advertising or marketing firm name, will be required prior to the publication of any material. Send any inquiries to hospitality@journalist.com
The Wine Advocate Spanish Ratings from Jay Miller Why tastebuds can influence your appreciation of a wine Which wine would Robert Parker would like to enjoy at his death bed? The Agenda The World of Fine Wine A world class magazine directed by Hugh Johnson So where does the word cocktail comes from?
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s much as I try to squeeze information into this pages, I have to make the decision of leaving a few good readings out. But, you know, when there’s a will, there’s a way. So I have incorporated the assistance of a little guy, he doesn’t have a name yet (Any suggestions?), that will take you straight to a web page where you will find more to read about in the subject of the story. That’s one of the new improvements I was commenting in the last edition of RSVP. Also, whenever you see a little chef hat, it means that there’s a recipe, related to that story, for you to try at home, with a few friends of course. As well, most of the web address are now interactive. A review of the design is in schedule for next edition, as well as other little tricks to make RSVP not only more enjoyable, but also a reference of quality and interesting information to enjoy over a great glass of wine.
R.S.V.P. Wines Food Travel
Amarylis Dávila
RSVP Editor
Sergio Lastres, Cuba En el pedestal de lo cotidiano
GalerĂa Viota
793 Avenida San Patricio San Juan, Puerto Rico 787 782-1752 / 787 783-7230
Sergio Lastres, Cuba El Parque
GalerĂa Viota
793 Avenida San Patricio San Juan, Puerto Rico 787 782-1752 / 787 783-7230
$58.00 Brut, per bottle Everyday, Anytime at The Greenhouse Ashford Avenue,Condado
787 725 4036
Ratings
Jay Miller.
It used not to count too much what American writers would think of Spanish wines, until they did and until Spanish wines became the latest chic wine country to savor with trendsetters in New York and San Francisco. So The Wine Advocate ratings are indeed a big deal now. Jay Miller is the chief taster and writer for Spain. In the following pages we’ll see what he thinks about some of Puerto Rico’s favorite labels. Have fun!
100 2005 Benjamin Romeo Contador, Rioja, Méndez 2005 Clos i Terrasses Clos Erasmus, Priorat, V. Suárez 99 2005 Pingus, R. del Duero, V. Suárez NV Vega Sicilia Reserva Especial, R. del Duero, Ballester 98 2005 Benjamin Romeo La Vina de Andrés Romeo, Rioja, Méndez 2005 Clos Mogador de René Barbier, Priorat, V. Suárez 2005 Finca Villacreces Nebro de Izadi, R. del Duero, V. Suárez 2005 Mas Doix Doix Costers de Vinyes Velles, Priorat, Compostela 2005 Emilio Moro Malleolus de Sancho Martín, R. del Duero, V. Suárez 2004 Muga Aro, Rioja, Méndez 2005 Bodegas El Nido, El Nido,Jumilla, Méndez 2005 Alvaro Palacios L’Ermita, Priorat, Plaza Cellars 2005 Bodegas y Viñedos Raúl Pérez Ultreia Valtuille, Bierzo, Compostela 2005 Viñas de la Vega del Duero Quinta Sardonia, R. del Duero, V. Suárez 97 2005 Bodegas Alto Moncayo, Aquilón, Campo de Borja, Méndez 2005 Los Astrales Astrales Christina, R. del Duero, V. Suárez 2005 BenjamEibodegan Romeo La Cueva del Contador, Rioja, Méndez 2005 Felix Callejo Reserva de la Familia, R. del Duero, B. Fernández 2003 Mauro Terreus Pago de Cueva Baja, R. del Duero, Ballester 2005 Emilio Moro Malleolus de Valderramiro, R. del Duero, V. Suárez 2005 Numanthia Termanthia, Toro, Méndez 2004 Pago de Los Capellanes Finca El Picón, R. del Duero, B. Fernández 96 2006 Artadi Vina El Pison, Rioja, V. Suárez 2005 Dominio de Atauta Llanos del Almendro, R. del Duero, Compostela 2005 Bodegas J C Conde Neo Punta Esencia, R. del Duero, CC1 2004 FelixCallejo Reserva de la Familia, R. del Duero, B. Fernández 2004 Muga Torre Muga, Rioja, Méndez 2005 Pingus Flor de Pingus, V. Suárez
The entire list can be accessed, by subscription, at www.erobertparker.com.
2004 Bodegas Fernando Remirez de Ganuza, Méndez 2005 Bodegas Sierra Cantabria El Bosque, Rioja, Méndez 2005 Celler Vall Llach Vall Llach, Priorat, Méndez 95 2005 Alto Moncayo, Alto Moncayo, Campo de Borja Méndez 2005 Dominio de Atauta La Mala, R. del Duero, Compostela 2005 Benjamin Romeo Predicador, Rioja, Méndez 2004 Convento San Francisco Seleccion, R. del Duero, CC1 2005 Finca Allende Calvario, Rioja, Méndez 2005 Bodegas El Nido Clio, Jumilla, Méndez 2005 Alvaro Palacios Finca Dofi, Priorat, Plaza Cellars 2005 Pintia, Toro, Ballester 2005 Bodegas y Viñedos Pujanza Pujanza Cisma, Rioja, CC1 1995 La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 890, Rioja, V. Suárez 94 2005 Anima Negra Son Negre, Mallorca, Méndez 2006 Artadi Pagos Viejos, Rioja, V. Suárez 2005 Dominio de Atauta Valdegatiles, R. del Duero, Compostela 2005 Cillar de Silos Altos de Revilla, R. del Duero, V. Suárez 2005 Clos Erasmus Laurel, Priorat, V. Suárez 2004 Campo Eliseo, Toro, Méndez 2005 Campo Eliseo, Toro, Méndez NV Emilio Lustau V O S Dry Amontillado, Jérez, Méndez 2005 Finca Sandoval, Manchuela, Méndez 2004 Eduardo Garcia Ramiro’s, R. del Duero, V. Suárez 2001 Hermanos Perez Pascuas Gran Selección, R. del Duero, Ballester 2003 Liberalia Enologica 5 Cinco, Toro, Méndez 2003 Viticultors Mas d’en Gil Clos Fonta, Priorat, Serrallés 2003 Mauro Vendimia Seleccionada, R. del Duero, Ballester 2004 Muga Rioja Reserva Seleccion Especial, Rioja, Méndez 2004 Pago de Los Capellanes Parcela El Nogal, R. del Duero, B. Fernández 2006 Pazo de Señorans, Rias Baixas, V. Suárez 2005 Bodegas y Vinedos Pujanza Pujaza Norte, Rioja, CC1 2005 Bodegas Roda Cirsion, Rioja, Plaza Cellars 2005 Finca Torremilanos Cyclo Christina, R. del Duero, Méndez 2005 Finca Torremilanos Cyclo, R. del Duero, Méndez 2005 Celler Vall Llach Idus, Priorat, Compostela
2005 Vinas de la Vega del Duero Quinta Sardonia, R. del Duero, V. Suárez 2003 Vega Sicilia Valbuena, R. del Duero, Ballester 2005 La Vinya del Vuit El 8, Montsant, V. Suárez 93 2004 Altanza Lealtanza Res Miró, Rioja, 2005 Alto Moncayo, Veraton, Campo de Borja, Méndez 2001 Arzuaga Gran Reserva, R. del Duero, Plaza Cellars 2005 Los Astrales, Astrales, R. del Duero, V. Suárez 2005 Ramon Bilbao, Mirto, Rioja, V. Suárez 2004 J A Calvo Casajus Antiguos Viñedos, R. del Duero, J. Malgor 2006 Celler de Capcanes Cabrida Calissa, Montsant, V. Suárez 2004 Cims de Porrera, C. de Porrera, Priorat 2005 Clos Martinet Clos Martinet, Priorat 2005 Convento San Francisco, C. San Francisco, R. del Duero, CC1 2005 Costers del Siurana Clos de l’Obac, Priorat, 2003 Falset 6 Vinyes de Laurona, Montsant, Plaza Cellars 2005 Finca Villacreces, R. del Duero, V. Suárez 2005 Hacienda Monasterio Crianza, R. del Duero, V. Suárez 2004 Bodegas Leda Vinas Viejas, Castilla y León, V. Suárez 2005 Mas Doix Salanques, Priorat, Compostela 2005 Mauro, R. del Duero, Ballester 2005 Bodegas Emilio Moro Malleolus, R. del Duero, V. Suárez 2004 Muga Reserva Unfiltered, Rioja, Méndez 2005 Viñedos de Paganos La Nieta, Rioja, Méndez 2004 Pago de Carraovejas Tinto Reserva, R. del Duero, V. Suárez 2004 Pago de Los Capellanes Reserva, R. del Duero, B. Fernández 2003 Pazo de Señorans, Selección de Añada, Rias Baixas, V. Suárez 2003 Fernando Remírez de Ganuza, R. de Ganuza, Rioja, Méndez 2005 La Rioja Alta Marques de Haro, Rioja, V. Suárez 2005 Carmelo Rodero TSM, R. del Duero, V. Suárez 2001 Torres Grans Muralles, Conca de Barberá, V. Suárez 92 2005 Anima Negra An, Mallorca, Méndez 2005 Artazu Santa Cruz de Artazuri, Navarra, V. Suárez 2006 Artadi Vinas de Gain, Rioja, V. Suárez 2004 Bodegas Arzuaga Reserva, R. del Duero, Plaza Cellars 2005 Dominio de Atauta Atauta, R. del Duero, Compostela 2004 Callejo Reserva, R. del Duero, B. Fernández 2005 J A Calvo Casajus V. Seleccionada, R. Duero, J. Malgor 2005 Cillar de Silos Torresilos, R. del Duero, V. Suárez 2006 Clos Mogador Clos Nelin Blanco, Priorat, V. Suárez 2005 Bodegas J C Conde Neo, R. del Duero, CC1 2005 D. de Jose Palacios Corullón Las Lamas, Plaza Cellars 2004 Falset Laurona, Montsant, Plaza Cellars 2005 Finca Allende Allende, Rioja, Méndez 2005 F. Sandoval Finca Sandoval Tns, Manchuuela, Méndez 2003 Finca Sobreño Selección Especial, Toro, B. Fernández 2004 Bodegas y Viñedos Luna Beberide, Reserva
2005 Viticultors Mas d’en Gil Coma Blanca, Priorat, Serrallés 2003 Viticultors Mas d’en Gil Coma Vella, Priorat, Serrallés 2004 Bodegas y Viñedos Maurodos San Román, Toro, Ballester 2005 Bodegas Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero, V. Suárez 2000 Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva, Rioja, Méndez 2005 Mustiguillo Finca Terrerazo, Utiel Requena, Quintana 2005 Numanthia, Toro, Méndez 2005 Numanthia Termes, Toro, Méndez 2005 Pago de Carraovejas Crianza, R. del Duero, V. Suárez 1995 La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 904, Rioja, V. Suárez 2004 Bodegas Sierra Cantabria Amancio, Rioja, Méndez 2006 Bodegas la Tapada Guitian Barrica, Valdeorras, V. Suárez 2004 Bodegas Valsacro Dioro, Rioja, V. Suárez 2004 Marques de Vargas Rioja Hacienda Pradolagar, Rioja, B. Fernández 2005 Veigadares Gran Veigadares, Rias Baixas, Plaza Cellars 2003 Viñas del Vero Blecua, Somontano, B. Fernández 91 2005 Anima Negra An / 2, Mallorca, Méndez 2004 Bodegas Arzuaga Gran Arzuaga, R. del Duero, Plaza Cellars 2007 Albariño Mar de Frades, Rias Baixas, V. Suárez 2004 Bienvenida Bienvenida, V. Suárez 2006 Borsao Tres Picos (Garnacha), Méndez 2005 J A Calvo Casajus Antiguos Viñedos, R. del Duero, J. Malgor 2006 J A Calvo Casajus V. Seleccionada, R. del Duero, J. Malgor 2005 Celler de Capcanes Mas Donis Barrica, Montsant, V. Suárez 2005 Celler de Capcanes Cabrida, Montsant, V. Suárez 2005 Bodegas Castano Solanera, Yecla, B. Fernández 2006 Caves Naveran Perles Roses, Cava, J. Malgor 2005 Celler de Cantonella Cervoles Tinto, Costers del Segre, Quintana 2005 Bodegas Cepa 21 Cepa 21, R. del Duero, V. Suárez 2005 Clos Martinet Martinet Bru, Priorat. Plaza Cellars 2006 D. de Jose Palacios, Pétalos del Bierzo, Bierzo, Plaza Cellars 2005 Bodegas Emina Atio, R. del Duero, V. Suárez 2004 Hermanos Perez Pascuas Vina Pedrosa Reserva, R. del Duero, Ballester 2003 Liberalia Enológica Cabeza de Cuba, Toro, Méndez 2004 Bodegas y Viñedos Luna Beberide, Tierras de Luna, Bierzo, V. Suárez 2004 Bodegas Matarromera Reserva, R del Duero, V. Suárez 2004 Montebaco Montebaco Vendimia Seleccionada, R. del Duero, J. Malgor 2006 Bodegas Mustiguillo Mestizaje, Utiel Requena, Quintana 2005 Pago de Los Capellanes Crianza, R. del Duero, B. Fernández 2004 Bodegas Rodero Carmelo Rodero Reserva, R. del Duero, V. Suárez 2004 Senorio de San Vicente San Vicente, Rioja, Méndez 2005 Bodegas Sierra Cantabria Colección Privada, Rioja, Méndez 2006 Bodegas la Tapada Guitian Sobre Lias, Valdeorras, V. Suárez 2003 Tilenus Crianza, Bierzo, Serrallés 2004 Bodegas Tobia Oscar Tobia Reserva, Rioja, CC1 2005 Torres Salmos, Priorta, V. Suárez 2003 Torres Gran Coronas Mas la Plana, Penedés, V. Suárez 2003 Finca Torremilanos Torre Albeniz, R. del Duero, Méndez 2005 Celler Vall Llach Embruix, Priorat, Méndez
2004 Bodegas Valsacro Crianza, Rioja, V. Suárez 2004 Marques de Vargas Rioja Reserva, Rioja, B. Fernández 2005 Bodegas Vinos Pinol L’Avi Arrufi, Terra Alta, B. Fernández 90 2005 Bodegas Arzuaga Crianza, R. del Duero, Plaza Cellars 2004 Bodegas Altanza Lealtanza Crianza, Rioja 2005 Atalayas de Golban, R. del Duero, Compostela 2001 Bodegas Altanza, Altanza, Rioja 2005 Bestue Finca Rableros, Somontano, Compostela 1999 Callejo Gran Reserva, R. del Duero, B. Fernández 2004 Celler de Capcanes Val del Calas, Montsant, V. Suárez 2006 Care Syrah Tempranillo Garnacha, Cariñena, Compostela 2007 Bodegas Castano Monastrell, Yecla, B. Fernández 2005 Bodegas Castano Hecula, Yecla, B. Fernández 2005 Caves Naveran Cava Dama, Cava, J. Malgor 2006 Cillar de Silos Crianza, R. del Duero, V. Suárez 2005 Cillar de Silos Crianza, R. del Duero, V. Suárez 2005 Ebano Ebano 6 Crianza, R. del Duero, Serrallés 2005 Bodegas Emina Prestigio, R. del Duero, V. Suárez 2006 Finca Allende Blanco, Rioja, Méndez 2005 Finca Sobreño Crianza, Toro, B. Fernández 2006 Bodegas Gutierrez Casta Diva Moscatel, Alicante, Plaza Cellars 2005 Hermanos Perez Pascuas Viña Pedrosa, R. del Duero, Ballester 2004 Izadi Reserva, Rioja, V. Suáraez 2005 Bodegas Leda Mas de Leda, Castilla y León, V. Suárez 2005 Bodegas Matarromera Crianza, R. del Duero, V. Suárez 2005 Bodegas y Viñedos Maurodos Prima, Toro, V. Suárez 2003 Enrique Mendoza Cabernet Shiraz Reserva, Alicante, B. Fernández 2003 Enrique Mendoza Reserva Santa Rosa, Alicante, B. Fernández 2005 Montebaco Montebaco, R. del Duero, J. Malgor 2005 Bodegas Mustiguillo Quincha Corral, Quintana 2004 Vinedos de Paganos El Puntido, Rioja, Méndez 2003 Pago de Carraovejas Cuesta de Las Liebres, R. del Duero, V. Suárez 2006 Pago de Los Capellanes Joven. R. del Duero, B. Fernández 2004 Bodegas Pingon Carramimbre Crianza, R. del Duero, J. Malgor 2005 Bodegas Pinuaga Tempranillo Reserva Selección, Toledo, V. Suárez 2006 El Quintanal Vendimia Seleccionada, Toro, V. Suárez 2003 Bodegas Rejadorada Sango de Rejadorada, Toro, Quintana 2006 Castell del Remei Gotim Bru, Costers del Segre, V. Suáre 2001 La Rioja Alta Vina Alberdi Reserva, Rioja, V. Suárez 2000 La Rioja Alta Vina Ardanza Reserva, Rioja, V. Suárez 2005 Bodegas Rodero Carmelo Rodero Crianza, R. Del Duero, V. Suárez 2001 Bodegas Sierra Cantabria Gran Reserva, Rioja, Méndez 2006 Bodegas la Tapada Guitian, Valdeorras, V. Suárez 2006 Bodegas Tobia Alma de Tobia Rosado, Rioja, CC1 2007 Val de Sil Montenovo, Valdeorras, Compostela 2003 Bodegas Valdelosfrailes Pagos de Las Costanas, Cigales, V. Suárez 2006 Valmiñor, Albariño, Rias Baixas, Serrallés 2004 Marqués de Vargas Reserva, Rioja, B. Fernández 2006 Adegas Galegas, Veigadares, Rias Baixas, Plaza Cellars 2001 Viña Mayor Gran Reserva, R. del Duero, B. Fernández 2005 Viña Mayor Viña Mayor, R. del Duero, B. Fernández
You will taste as far as your taste buds will allow you “Of 11 wines on the tasting table, the Col d’Orcia Rosso di Montalcino, a full-bodied, fruity Tuscan red, was Tom Natan’s top choice. Adam Manson hated it. Both have well-trained and -respected palates. Natan is a partner in the Washington-based importer and retailer First Vine. Manson is a co-owner of Veritas, a popular wine bar in Dupont Circle. But the physiological differences in their tongues, coupled with their varied experiences, mean that the same wine tastes different to each of them. To Natan, the big, juicy flavors are luscious. To Manson, they are overwhelming, even bitter.” Why?
According to Tim Hanni, a California wine consultant curious about why is it that one same exact wine can be so differently assessed among wine tasters, thinks that the secret lies in the tongue. More specifically in the number and configuration of your taste buds. Hanni, who is using a magnifier and camera to examine his subjects’ tongues, says that more buds equals to a more sensitive tongue and that for these people, strong acids or tannins can be perceived as harsh. Less buds can tolerate stronger wines, and then there’s everything in between. He’s categorizing his tongues into hypersensitive, sensitive and tolerant and is matching the kind of wines these tongues are better built for. He has now built, in conjunction with UC Davis, what he calls the ‘budometer” and the studies conducted aim to let people know where they fall in the spectrum of wine styles, according to their tongues. The original article, published in the Washington Post, provides a lot of insights into this ‘tasting’ research. To read the full article please go to
Your’re invited!
“De Copas y Vinos en el Rincón Argentino”,
a llevarse acabo en el VIP Cigar Bar del Restaurante El Rincón Argentino en Ponce, Puerto Rico; este próximo viernes 28 de marzo. Se degustarán vinos de V. Suárez, los café del Núcleo Productores de Café Alturas de Yauco distribuido (Café Boriqué) por Caribbean Grain y, por supuesto, toda la gama y selección especial de los cigarros Falto de La Garita Cigar Company, Inc. Será una velada estupenda que se repitirá todos los últimos viernes de cada mes Vestimenta casual. Desde las 5:00pm . Entrada gratis. . Para más información se pueden comunicar con el Dr. Alexis García al 787-604-9396 y/o con Osvaldo Facundo Cabral al 787-409-7818.
Tastes
In a Parker State of Mind
It never ceases to wonder me what and how people talk about their tastes, in this case wine, and what they really think. It so happens that this wine has never been awarded a 100 by Parker is the wine he has disclosed that is the wine he would like to have at his bedside. I have also tried to see if it was possible to buy it, but I haven’t been able, since at release the wine was only 40 euros, it’s highly allocated and after Parker’s expressions...well, you know the rest of the story.
Pascal Maurel. Clos Saint Jean is a Chatenneuf-du-Pape family estate founded in 1900 by Edmund Tacussel. Wine has been bottled by the mark Clos Saint Jean since 1910. Since 1982 when the owner Guy Maurel deceased his wife assisted by the two sons Pascal and Vincent have carried on at the property. The oenologist Philippe Gambie is now assisting at the estate and something has happened. From 2003 two new cuvées have emerged: “La Combe des Fous” (Hill of Fools, referring to what people said when Tacussel planted vines at that parcel - it was folish to work in such big stones) and “Deus ex Machina” referring to the Gods that in antique tragedies were coming per high macines into the scene and refering to the great changes which have happened at the estate from 2003. The basic red Chateauneuf du Pape (2003) is made from 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 4% Mourvedre, 3% Cinsault, 2% Vaccarese and 1% Muscardin. The yield is only 25 ha/ha. All grapes are de-stemmed before fermentation. The maceration lasts for 35 days. For Grenache no ageing in wood but the oth-
(94-96 points) Robert Parker. “The thrilling 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Deus-Ex Machina is a candidate for the appellation’s “wine of the vintage.” A barrique-aged blend of Mourvedre and Grenache, it boasts an inky/ruby/purple color as well as explosive ripeness, powerful creme de cassis, raspberry, cherry, melted licorice, smoke, and espresso characteristics, huge body, admirable purity, moderately high tannin, and abundant quantities of glycerin, alcohol, and concentration. This impressive, sumptuous Chateauneuf du Pape will be at its finest between 2007-2020. Kudos to Clos Saint-Jean and oenologist Philippe Cambie for fashioning some of the best wines of the vintage!” Wine Advocate #156.
The winery exhibits no sign and it welcomes visitors, only as an exception and by appointment only.
ers varieties are aged in new or one-years-old barrels for about 12 months. La Combe des Fous is made from the parcel in La Crau planted 1905-10 with 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Cinsault and 10% Vaccarese. Yield: 20 hl/ ha. Deus-ex-Machina is from 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvedre. Yield: 20 hl/ha. A small amount of white wine is made from equal parts of Grenache Blanc, Rousanne and Clairette. Source: Rhone wine lovers will find a lot of tastings, winery, personalities information and great photos at www.chateneuf.dk.com a website written by Soren Gudiksen, a danish Rhone wine lover whose writings are so good that readers and winemakers have asked him to translate them to English, which he has done since 2005. Press on the icon to go directly to Gudiksen’s pages, where you will find more about Château St. Jean and many other Rhône small and family run wineries.
Your’re invited! Four EntréeTasting Menu, BYOB At Chef Alex Bistro Catalina Saturday, 29th of March The Menu
Hot & Cold Hors d’Oeuvres Château Royal Brut First Course
Seared Salmon Filet, Braised Baby Fennel with Chanterelle, Organic Spinach, Blood Orange Segments and Micro Arugula Second Course
Roasted Duck Leg Timbale with Mascarpone Polenta Endive Fricassèe and Dried Sprirng Berry Ragoût Third Course
Caribbean Blend Rabbit Fricassèe with Pancetta Risotto and Mirepoix Relish Fourth Course
Short Rib Casserole with Bratwurst, German Ham, White Cabbage Confit, Smoked Brie Cassava Compote Surprise Dessert
Parés Balta Honeymoon Illy Italian Premium Coffee
$65.00 per person No corkage fee Tax included / Tip not included
Chef Alex Sánchez
For reservations, please call 787 263 4499 / 787 263 3803
Latini
Cover Story
Pasta that truly awakens your senses become a single variety pasta. In 2000, they presented Spaghetti Taganrog, as the world’s second single durum wheat pasta. Spelt is a grain of deep roots in the roman gastronomy, and also one of the grains that was being cultivated at the Azienda. Carlo Latini wanted to bring back some of those flavors back to our times and decided to create yet another kind of pasta, which is the Farro.
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s a result from years of analyzing and cooking with different grains of wheat from the Latini wheat fields in the Marche region, Carlo Latini discovered that each kind has a distinct, unique profile of color, aroma, flavor and texture. In fact, more than 600 types of durum wheat have been tested and tasted in his kitcken since 1990. With each flavor profile, a new path of cooking possibities was opened. Carlo Latini created the first experimental fields of the Azienda Latini in 1988, which was coincidentally its 100th years anniversary. Since then, every harvest yields more than 50 durum wheat varieties. A few years before Carlo met Carla, today Carla Latini, and she too, joined him in his quest for discovering and understanding the magic behind each different grain of wheat, durum, the kind used to make pasta. A major breakthrough took place in 1992, when the Latinis harvested their Senatore Cappelli fields. Its personality was so different and defined that it became the world’s first single durum wheat pasta. It is indeed a very aromatic and its even a pleasure to smell it while it is still boiling. Inspired by the Senatore Cappelli, they felt that yet another variety, the Taganrog, also had the potential to
Cook it right! The best way to cook Latini pasta is to boil it in a larger pot with abundant water. Be really generouos with the water because of the course structure of the pasta, it absorbs a lot of it. Location has an effect in the cooking times. In Puerto Rico, it is advisable to boil it one minute less than what it says in the instructions, specially if you are going to transfer the pasta to the sauce pot. This second step, strongly recommended by Carla Latini, consists of transfering the pasta to a wide rim shallow pan, and mix the pasta with the sauce. Then remove it from the heat and stir it with a wooden spoon. The amount of sauce should also be a little more in quantity than the usual, since the pasta, again, absorbs a lot of it. Where to buy Latini? Although Latini has just arrived to Puerto Rico, it has already made its way into a few private and professional kitchens with great success. To buy Latini, just call 787 316 8600. Or you can send us an email to rsvpnews@mail, and we will take your request to the Latini ambassadors in Puerto Rico.
At Azienda Latini, durum wheat varieties are cultivated in separate plots.
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What makes Latini unique?
ll the work in the fields, would have gone unnoticed, in our case, untasted, if the Latinis, once the harvest was finished, would have gone on to make pasta as usual. Really unthinkable for a couple with such awareness about the subtleties of their grains. So what was the best procedure to retain all the fantastic qualities that Latini stand apart? Once the grains are worked into the dough, water quality being also a crucial ingredient, converting it to the great variety of shapes takes precedence. The conventional, and very industrial method, is to pass the mix through slots of synthetic resin, and inmediately drying it a high temperatures. This process renders the texture of the pasta so completely smooth, that it is the reason it even shines when it
is just drained. The high temperature (185 - 212ºF) drying method, which is completed in 3 to 4 hours, also destroys the molecular structures of the starches that would have yielded some personality to even and every day pasta batch. Instead, to achieve a truly distinct product, the Latinis opted for an old, artisanal, much slower method. The first decision was to used bronze dies specifically designed to give Latini pasta a unique, rough and porous texture that can be noticed inmediately. The drying method is the slowest process, since the pastas now shaped into classic and original forms, rest at low temperature (100 - 103ºF), and take up to two days, depending of the pasta, to complete the process. A very simple way to first enjoy the Latini pasta is to taste it right after is drained without any sauce or olive oil. Then, and this is one of Carla’s favorite ways to enjoy it, add a good quality olive oil and add Parmigiano or Grana cheese and wait for it to melt. I personally love the Senatore Cappelli, in this way but also adding sage at the same time I add the cheese. You can find easy to make, delicious recipes at www.latini.com. Press on the icon to learn how to make your own pancetta at home!
The Taganrog Line, Latini’s -and the world’s- second single durum wheat pasta, is well suited to light sauces based on seafood, including mollusks and crustaceans, as well as white meats such as chicken and rabbit. It makes and ideal match with all types of vegetables and legumes: zucchini, turnip greens, chard, spinach, potatoes, peas, fava beans, lentils, grass peas and even rice bran. It also makes an excellent base for cold pasta salads.
Farro is a blend of spelt and other wheat grains, a semi integrale pasta, that contains a high amount of protein. It is very hearty and is delicious with vegetables, cheeses, shellfish, seafood and stronger sauces like meat ragout and carbonaras.
For the Senatore Cappelli Carla recommends hearty sauces in the Italian tradition. For example, a ragù with all types of seafood, including shellfish, or a sauce based on lamb or pork or game or porcini mushrooms. Try it also with fresh vegetables, such as eggplant, tomatoes and chilli peppers, or legumes covering a whole range of beans, peas and chickpeas.
Senatore Cappelli is the world’s first single durum wheat pasta. This variety is of excellent quality, robust with short ears that tend to tear away from the stalk rather than grow longer. In its dry state, the pasta has a protein value of about 17 percent. The pasta retains its ash blonde color when cooked, giving off a spicy fragrance reminiscent of freshly baked bread from a wood-fired oven. Its rich flavor and firm texture make it an exhilarating mouthful.
Latini Classica is the kind of pasta you could really eat as often as you like without tiring your palate. It produced from a blend of very fine durum wheat varities and is available in many shapes. It goes well with most any type of sauce, ranging from light and delicate to rich and spicy. Have fun in your kitchen with recipes as the Bucatini cacio e pepe, Spaghetti all’amatriciana, Trenette al pesto, Spaghetti alla carbonara, Rigatoni al ragù, Maccheroncini al fumè, Penne all’arrabbiata and Spaghettini alle vongole.
A Brief History Of Pasta Pasta, the Italian word for noodles, probably originated in central Asia. The Chinese were eating “a noodle-like food” as early as 3000 B.C. To debunk popular belief, pasta did not come to Italy with Marco Polo: A listing of pasta exists in an Italian estate record of 1275, 20 years prior to Polo’s China visit. While Polo may have brought back pasta, and the overall publicity of his travels no doubt publicized pasta and his other “discoveries” throughout Europe, he was hardly the first Italian to enjoy it. More likely, pasta first traveled from China to the Holy Land* and introduced to Italy by the Arabs during their conquest of Sicily in the Fifth Century C.E. Dried pasta was carried by the invaders as an easily-prepared staple. The Arab geographer Al Idrisi wrote that a flour-based product in the shape of strings (i.e., spaghetti, which means cords or strings in Italian) was produced in Palermo, then an Arab colony. *The first written record of boiled noodles is in the Jerusalem Talmud, written in the 5th century C.E., referring to dried noodles purchased from a vendor. Perhaps 1,000 years earlier, the ancient Greeks and later the Romans had broad, flat strips of dough called laganon, but they were roasted, not boiled—more like pizza strips and pie dough. Thomas Jefferson discovered the charms of pasta when, as minister to France from 1784 to 1789, he traveled to Italy. He not only brought what is believed to be the first pasta machine to America, but proceeded to invent a machine of his own (and then invented macaroni and cheese). However, what happened in the dining rooms of the elite did not quickly migrate to the average household kitchen; and it took the broadscale Italian immigration in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, for pasta to begin to become one of America’s most popular comfort foods. Press on the icon for more about the story of one of the world’s most travelled food staples.
Your’re invited! Chef Koldo Miranda at Marisquería El Galeón Monday 31st of March & Tuesday, April 1st
The Menu Tiradito de pez mantequilla con ají ricoto y cremoso de maíz ahumado Do Ferreiro Cepas Vellas 2003 Lubina asada con palmito y su consomé especiado Flor de Pingus 2000 Bikini de atún rojo con coliflor trufada y muselina cítrica La Crema Pinot Noir 2006 Cordero asado a baja temperatura con castañas especiadas Paixar 2002 Papada Ibérica cremoso de fabes y berza Torre Silos 2004
Koldo Miranda.
He’s basque, but you couldn’t box his work just a such. He lives in Asturias, and again, just to call him a chef from Asturias would be to leave out everything that he has brought in. Nor his style conforms to a asturian-basque cuisine. You will however find in his presentations, elements of those traditional regions and from many other Spanish regions, ever since Koldo Miranda, who opened the restaurant at Bilbao’s Guggenheim, is absolutely fascinated by the vast array of Spanish products that fire up his inspiration. His main purpose is to elevate those products to cult status which he has a record of achieving, consistently. Cost $150 per person, all inclusive. For reservations, please call El Galeón 787 274 8526.
Albóndigas de Chocolate Pedro Ximénez Reserva Especial de Romate
Seis dinámicos talleres temáticos durante los cuales cada asistente aprenderá a descorchar, decantar y servir el vino. Escoger y comprar vinos para fiestas y cenas. Apreciar los vinos del Viejo y del Nuevo Mundo. Desarrollar los sentidos para disfrutar más de los vinos. Maridar comidas y estilos de vinos. Crear un diario de notas de cata. Utilizar los recursos disponibles en el Internet Y mucho más.
El curso será dirigido por
Amarylis Dávila Directora Regional de European Wine Academy
El precio del curso es:
$
285.00 incluye:
aCata de vinos en cada sesión aMembresía del Club La Cava de Serrallés y descuentos aMaterial educativo exlusivos por todo un año en aGuía de recursos de internet vinos y licores distribuídos por aMenú de catering posterior a la cata
Comienza
Destilería Serrallés.
Sábado 29 de Marzo
Llama hoy y reserva tu espacio (787) 707-1000
Los talleres contarán con la presencia de varios profesionales de la industria
The Master is back! Master Chef Augusto Schreiner is returning to La Boutique Du Vin for nine more sessions of techniques, tips and a few secrets on how to cook great dishes like a pro. Each class also offers students a wine pairing experience as well as the opportunity to try their own wine favorites with the menu, which serves as a pretasting for a future dinner party at home. March & April 2008 Classes Tuesday, March 25th • 7:00 pm - 9:00 pm Pasta II Fettuccini with black truffles, Raviolo with ricotta and egg Tortellini with lobster mouse l Espresso pana cotta Thursday, March 27th • 7:00 pm - 9:00 pm * $ 95.00 Petrossian Grand Caviar and Smoked Fish Tasting Trout Caviar and Smoked Sable Fish, Scramble eggs with sour cream and chives Salmon Caviar and Zar Imperial Smoked Salmon, Petrossian Smoked Salmon Farmed Royal Transmontanous Caviar, Chataluga Prestige Caviar (Paddlefish Roe) Smoked Sturgeon l Refreshing Granite Culibijak of Salmon, cucumber salad and herb mayonnaise Crepes filled with Rose petal Marmalade Tuesday, April 1st • 7:00 pm - 9:00 pm The Versatile Pork Pork tenderloin in “hojaldre”, Saltimbocca pork scaloppini Braised pork cheeks l Pineapple cake Tuesday, April 8th • 7:00 pm - 9:00 pm Duck Extravaganza Duck foie grass terrine, Duck leg comfit, French lentil ragout Duck breast al’orange Thursday, April 10th 7:00 pm - 9:00 pm Noche nostálgica - platos de la Rotisserie Crema fría de zucchini, “El pescador”, a seafood rice flambé Baked Alaska
Tuesday, April 15th • 7:00 pm - 9:00 pm Noche nostálgica platos de la Chaumiere with Chef Didier Escargot, La Veredable bouillabaise l “Isla Flotante” Thursday April 17th • 7:00 pm -9:00 pm April in Paris Sole with lobster mousse Newburg sauce Lamb loin with herb crust baked in pastry Camembert glace with apples and calvados White chocolate mousse Tuesday April 22nd • 7:00 pm - 9:00 pm Crabmeat Crab cakes, Soft shell crabs “fresh and live” Veal Oscar Granite with Crabmeat Wednesday April 30st • 7:00 pm - 9:00 pm Pasta Sauces The classic bolognaise Gorgonzola with walnuts Pancetta, cherry tomatoes, sage and asparagus Pantone bread pudding
Cancellations must be made 48 hours prior to the class to receive a refund. Cancellations made at least 72 hours prior to a class will receive a credit for a future class instead of a refund. To reserve your space full payment must be made at La Boutique Du Vin, 210 Chardón Suite 102, Hato Rey 787-250-0008. Cost per classs: $75.00 per person
Agenda
27
Chappellet Wine Tasting
28
De Copas y Vinos
29
Wine appreciation classes at La Cava de Serrallés
29
BYOB Evening at Chef Alex
29 30
Chef Koldo Miranda at El Galeón
29
Plaza Caribe Luxury Apartment Showcase
To celebrate Emidian’s Restaurant first anniversary a degustation menu will be offered and a Chappellet tasting will be conducted by Kike Morales, owner and sommelier of DiVino Wine Bar & Grille and there will be a pairing dinner menu. Emidian Restaurant, Boulevard Avenue, Santa Rosa, Bayamón. For reservations please call, 787 798 4948.
An evening of fine Puerto Rican coffee from Núcleo Productores de Café Alturas de Yauco and fine Falto cigars from La Garita Cigar Company. A tasting of a selection of wines from V. Suárez is also on the program.
Six wine tasting, serving and enjoying workshops will be conducted on Saturdays beginning on the 29th by Amarylis Dávila. The classes will take place at La Cava and enrollment includes a one year club membership, materials, tasting and menu. To reserve your, please call Marisol Torres at 787 707 1000 or 787 707 1001. More information at www.lacavadeserralles.com.
Reknowned Chef Alex of Chef Alex Bistro Catalina in Cayey will be featuring a special four course dinner menu which wine lovers can pair up with wines from their private collection. No corkage fee! See the complete menu on Page 20. For reservations, please call 787 263-4499 or 787 263-3803.
Spanish Michelin star chef Koldo Miranda will be in charge of El Galeón’s kitchen to delight guests with a magnificent display of the flavors and the techniques that have earned him a spot in the elite of Spain’s food luminaires. See the complete menu on Page 23.
A taste of grand living! A unique opportunity to visit some of the most stunning apartments of newly constructed Plaza Caribe in Condado. Starting at $2.2M and 3,800 sq/ft, with some of San Juan’s most splendid views. To make an appointment or more information, please call Yasmin Barrerra at 787 637 8720.
Sheraton Old San Juan Hotel 100 Brumbaugh Street Reservations: 787 721 5100
Build your own burger at the new indoor-outdoor Burger Restaurant located on the scenic San Juan Bay. Choose between the Certified Angus Beef burger, savory salmon, healthy vegetarian and more. Enjoy an oversized patty cooked to perfection and generously topped with a unique variety of hot and cold trimmings or traditional favorites.
Open daily for lunch and dinner.
Readings
The World of Fine Wine Boasting some of the most celebrated wine personalities in the wine industry as part of its editorial team, which is directed by the eminent critic and writer Hugh Johnson, The World of Fine Wine is one of the world’s most important publications in the industry. The magazine offers first account insights of world class tastings, industry issues, news, restaurant reviews, and plenty more for the avid reader. The website is very elegant and friendly and although most of the in-depth articles are exclusive to the print version,
it gives visitors a very good idea, and a few free articles, of why their 8 issues per year subscription is priced at $300.00. There’s one grand reward if you visit the site each Monday: A free article from a recent issue is published. The list of international contributors include Gerald Asher, Tim Atkin MW, Nicolas Belfrage MW, Michel Bettane, Michael Broadbent MW, Randall Grahm, Allen Meadows, David Peppercorn MW, Jancis Robinson MW, David Schildknecht, and Serena Sutcliffe MW. More at www.finewinemag.com.
Editorial Board Hugh Johnson OBE UK Marchese Piero Antinori Italy Michel Bettane France Professor Alain Carbonneau France Thierry Desseauve France Paul Draper USA David Elswood UK and USA James Halliday Australia Wilfred Jaeger USA
Anne-Claude Leflaive France Professor Ann Noble USA Paul Pontallier France Professor Sakkie Pretorius Australia Michael Prinz zu Salm-Salm Germany Christian Seely France and Portugal Paul Symington Portugal Franco Ziliani Italy
Portfolio
Portfolio is a Conde Nast business magazine with a fantastic Lifestyle & Culture section which among its many themes, covers food and wine. The interviews are candid conversations with legends of the restaurant business, wine service and consumer issues and general reviews. It also offers some interesting multimedia presentations. Being a section of a business publication, some of its articles are also devoted to hot topics like collecting, auctions, corkage, price increases, marketing and futures. Portfolio.com has a search bar and it is also possible to enjoy previous issues. Should you want to subscribe, just $12 will take care of that. You may also join many of the debates covered in the entire magazine, by joining their Think Tank right from their website, Portfolio.com.
Hugh Johnson
Now in Puerto Rico For the Fine Coffee Lover at Home and Top Restaurants and Hotels Exclusive Representative: JC Puente Brands Development 786 208 1266 / 787 221 2384
Cocktail Lounge
This photos belong to the calendar commissioned by Campari for 2008. There are other eleven equally interesting pictures at www.camparitales.com.
Campari, still a very trendy drink
With Eva Mendes as its chief image officer, Campari continues to be a brand distinguished by being, at the same time a classic and exotic choice at the bar. The history of Campari began in Novara, Italy in 1860, with the invention of the original recipe by Gaspare Campari that is still in use today. The recipe incorporates over sixty ingredients and is kept confidential to this day; according to the Campari Group, the president Luca Garavoglia, with the help of the technical director and eight employees, produces the base concentrate, for Garavoglia is the only person in the world who knows the entire formula for the original family recipe. However, among the ingredients are quinine and other bitter herbs, rhubarb, pomegranate, spices, ginseng, bergamot oil, orange peel. It is known that the colour comes from natural Carmine Cochineal E20. One of the main ingredients is bark from Cascarilla trees
that grow in the Bahamas. Signore Campari was a well known master drinks blender and as he recipe got popular, other bars started requesting him a stock for their own bar business. He agreed on the condition that they displayed a sign saying, “Campari Bitters�.
A brand in support of Contemporary Art Today Campari has associated with art circles, specially in New York and Los Angeles, to promote young artists. The Campari Contemporary Art Program acknowledges and supports excellence in emerging contemporary art through exhibitions, commissions and programs designed to inspire dialog about contemporary visual arts and provide a platform for cutting-edge artists to share their passion. More information about Campari’s art events, competitions and publications at www.houseofcampari.com.
The Origin of the Word “Cocktail”
T
he origin of the cocktail is a contested story whose truth may never fully come to light. For centuries, all over the western world, people have been experimenting with mixing drinks, both alcoholic and non-alcoholic. The origin of the name “cocktail” itself is not certain. Some of the more common (and amusing!) explanations are…
An Englishman’s Misfortune In 1779, after her husband was killed in the American War of Independence, innkeeper Betsy Flanagan opened an inn near Yorktown that was frequented by American and French soldiers. An English chicken farmer lived nearby. Due to the political climate at the time, Betsy was probably not too fond of her neighbor, prompting her to promise her American and French customers that she would serve them a meal of roast chicken one day. Her guests occasionally mocked her boasts saying she would never go through with it. One evening, an unusual number of officers gathered at her inn, so Betsy served a lavish meal of chicken, stolen from her English neighbor. When the meal was over, Betsy moved her guests to the bar, where she served up drinks decorated with a
¡Sorprenda a sus invitados con un servicio de vinos y de bar
tail-feather from the chickens. The officers drank until morning, periodically making rowdy calls for more “cock tails.” A Ceramic Rooster The owner of an American bar had a large ceramic container in the form of a rooster. The container was filled with the leftovers from drinks. The less affluent could get a drink from this container, served from a tap at the tail. Hence, the name cocktail became associated with a mix of drinks. Some say the quality was always high after English sailors had been in, as there was a good mixture of rum, gin and brandy in the cocktail. Virginian Dregs In nineteenth century America, a cock was a tap, while its tail was the last, muddy dregs of the tap. Colonel Carter, of Culpepper Court House, Virginia, was served the tail at his local tavern. Seeing it as a disgrace, he threw it to the floor and said from then on he would only drink “cock tails” of his own design. His concoction was a mix of gin, lemon peel, bitters and sugar, and is possibly the ancestor of modern cocktails. Night-mare-ish Strength A “cocktailed horse” was a term for one whose tail has been bobbed, giving it a flamboyant and jolly appearance. As the mixed drinks served in the bars and inns had a very high alcoholic content, the name “cocktail” possibly came from its ability to “cock the tail”, or get a careless customer drunk very quickly. There Once Was a Girl in Mexico… In the early 1800s, the southern states had reached a peace agreement with King Axolot VIII of Mexico. At peace ceremonies, a drink was served to seal the agreement. At one ceremony, a pretty young woman brought forth the drink (she was also the one to concoct the drink) in an intricately decorated gold cup. As she was approaching the king and the general who represented the states, she realized that with only one cup, she would have to serve one before the other, causing embarrassment for one of the men. So instead of committing the social faux pas, she quickly drank the contents of the cup. The general asked the king who the girl was. The king replied “My daughter, Coctel.” Source: www.drinkfocus.com
40% alcohol by volume. Distrubuted by Plaza Cellars.
The meaning of Belvedere...
A vantage point from where you can enjoy a commanding view. Where will you enjoy yours ... Today?
Rinfresco Italian Brunch A Great Success Story at Sheraton Old San Juan’s Palio A perfect Old San Juan day starts with a good breakfast, or a great lunch. You can have it both ways at the superb brunch at Palio, which continue to enjoy great success among locals and visitors alike. As a Tuscan chophouse, the menu is strongly influenced by Italian staples, but also offers a variety of international brunch classics, such as the crepes and the smoked salmon and bagel NY duo.
$28.00 per person gratuity and taxes are not included Children 6-9 years old $14.00 Children under 5 years old - No Charge Sheraton Old San Juan Hotel 100 Brumbaugh Street 787 721 5100
Open schedule, on line courses START TODAY! Signing Up for a
FREE COURSE
is the first step towards an academic and advanced level education in wine. Associate Degree in Wine Marketing
Visit us at www.europeanwineacademy.org
The world’s best online wine education! Distinguish yourself from the crowd. Become a Certified Wine Professional! For those with enough passion and determination, this is the best wine online education in wine marketing, wine business, wine tasting, wine serving and wine making. Visit vineyards, enologists labs, grand tastings and some of the best wine professional expos. If you love wine, want to make a career in this field, or just acquire serious wine education, we have the right course for you!
In PR call 787 221 2384, or by email at rsvpnews@mail.com
Tutorías y Catas en español, en Puerto Rico.