Key Trends
Collection Review: Men’s
S/S 23 Withtrendspolarisingbetweeneasilypalatableand commercialversusexperimentaland hedonistic,wewalk throughWGSN'stopfive NickPaget 07.11.22·13minutes PIgal e
#Nautical Amongsomeofthewildertrendstoemerge forS/S23,thismodernisttakeon#Nautical themeswillfeellikeawelcomepalate cleanser,asspottedatPittiUomo. Forthisseason,themoretweeelementsof thiswell wornmensweartropeareabsent, withastripped-backpaletteandjudicioususe ofstylised,waterinspiredprintson #NotSoClassickeyitemsallgivingastrongly commercialandpracticalfeeltothis perenniallyrelevanttheme. Coloro: A: 120 22 18 B: 037 93 00, C: 112 75 11, D: 114 57 24, E: 031 77 03, F: 115 23 11 Pantone: A: 19 3932 TCX, B: 11 4800 TCX, C: 14 4123 TCX D: 17 4139 TCX E: 14 4501 TCX, F: 19 4122 TCX A Midnight Blue B: Optic White C: Sky Blue D: Tranquil Blue E: Pumice F: French Navy
Of cine
Generale
Emporio
Armani
Of cine Generale
VALETTE Studio Agnes B
1
Key items
Keyitems:Bretonstripedtopsandstripe-mix shirtspairwithchunkyknits,drawstring trousers,#ShortShortsandtechnical outerwear,suchasthesummerparka. Keyfootwear andaccessories:clean aestheticsforsandals,deckshoes, #BaseballCapsandsmall-scalemessenger bags.Onadirectionalnote,#RubberBoots werekeyonthecatwalksandworkwiththis theme.
VALETTE Studio
Agnes B
Craig Green Emporio Armani
Ami A exandre Mattiussi
2
Materials and details
Keymaterials anddetails:soapy-handle cottons,paperysynthetics,seersuckerand compactweavescharacterisethetheme,with recycledsyntheticsasimportantasclean cottons.
Keyprints andpatterns:looktowater inspiredthemesbyfast-trackingourMen's ColourForecastA/W23/24themeAquatic,as wellas#SummerStripes.#Ombretechniques areeverywhereandwillalsobeimportant.
Agnes B Agnes B
VALETTE Studio Emporio Armani
Of cine Generale
3
#PyjamaDressing
Althoughconsumersaremoreinclinedtoopt forsmarter,moreformallooksonceagain,the desiresthatdrovetrendssuch as#SupremeComfortremain.Theappealof comfortable yeto enlavish looksisborn outofthistheme,butthesexinessofalluding tothebedroomandbeingsomehowslightly underdressedispartofthedraw.
Looktocontrastingloungewearand underwearproportions,hewnfromdraping fabricsinaboudoirpalette.Nodtothe #RedefiningMasculinitymovementforthis casuallyconfidentandplayfullysexystory.
Coloro: A: 036 89 06 B: 024 75 15, C: 143 36 17, D: 112 75 11, E: 157 72 02, F: 120 22 18 Pantone: A: 11 0103 TCX, B: 15 1319 TCX C: 19 3424 TCX, D: 14 4123 TCX, E: 14 3906 TCX, F: 19 3932 TCX A Unbleached Cotton B: Italian Clay C: Dusted Grape D: Sky Blue E: Pearl Grey F: Midnight Blue
Louis
Gabriel Nouchi Mag
iano
Family First
Givenchy
Louis Gabriel Nouchi
4
Key items
Keyitems:
Keyfootwear andaccessories:
lounge-inspired#MatchingSets, boxershort style#BaggyShorts,blazerswith contraststripedsleeves,paperbagwaisted shorts.LooktoourMenswearForecastS/S23: SoulSpacestory,Endlesssummer,formore inspiration.
inspiredby S/S23'smove onof#SupremeComfort,pair pyjamastyleswith#RecoverySlides. #OversizedTotebagsechothesimpleeaseof thetheme.
Dries Van Noten Cool
TM
Lazoschmidl
Bianca Saunders
Taakk
5
Materials and details
Keymaterials anddetails:thesefluid silhouettesdemandanelementoffluiddrape, solookto#Satinandcellulosics.Tiedetails andpiping(asflaggedinourBuyers'Briefing KeyDetails)arekeypyjamainfluenced elements. Keyprints andpatterns:candycaneand engineeredstripesareastrongtheme,but relevant#InteriorsInspiredpatternswillalso featurehere,suchas#Paisley.
Taakk Amiri
Denzil Patrick Georges Wendel
Rhude
6
#VibrantVacation
Withthistheme,amiddleroadisfound
betweenthehecticextremesof #FantasyResortandthemuted,maturefeeling of#RefinedResortstories.Puttingcolourful, expressivetailoringandoccasionwearatthe centreofthings,manydesignersshowedbold printedpiecesand#Ombreeffects,andstyled themtogetherinawaythatfeltfreshand exciting. Togetthelook,addeye-catchingprintsto WGSN'sS/S24Men'sColourtheme, Postmodernutility,whichwillfast trackand remainrelevantintothatseason. Coloro: A: 005 57 28, B: 062 57 10, C: 047 82 01 D: 097 70 23, E: 026 70 32 F: 134 67 16 Pantone: A: 17 1736 TCX B: 17 0210 TCX, C: 13 4303 TCX D: 14 4522 TCX, E: 15 1245 TCX F: 15 3716 TCX A Pink Punch B: Jade C: Digital Mist D: Turquoise Sea E: Papaya Smoothie F: Digital Lavender Paul Smith Hermès
Eytys
Emporio Armani
PERTE D EGO
7
Key items
Keyitems:tailoringisakeyaspectofthis theme,whichisso enedbypairingitwith knittedpiecessuchas#Polos,#KnittedVests andprinted#ResortShirts,allinlaidbackand relaxedsilhouettes.
Keyfootwear andaccessories:tocontinue remixingtraditionalformalcodes,stylethese lookswithslides,sneakersandsandals,oropt forformalfootwearthathasa#NotSoClassic element,suchasapopofcolour.Afurthernod tostreetwearcomesfromtheeverpresent #BucketHat.
Ahluwalia Pau Smith
AGR
PERTE D'EGO
Paul Smith
8
Materials and details
Keymaterials
Keyprints andpatterns:
anddetails:buildonresortreadybastfibreswithsilksandcellulosicsfor thedrapingfeelthestoryneeds.Taponeof theseason'skeythemes #Openwork for topsthattreadalinebetweenchicandsexy.
highcolour,high energy#Floralsareimportantandareoffset withplayfulgeometrics.Borderprintdesigns areseen,asareplacementandstatement #Ombreeffects.
Etro
PERTE D'EGO
Paul Smith
Denzil Patrick
Ahluwa ia
9
FirstcalledoutinourMilancoverage,thislook
#ElementalElegance
tookonmomentuminParis.Withbastfibres gainingtractionatmanymarketlevels, designersleanintothecharacteristicsofraw luxurythatthesematerialsoffer.Fromrich texturestobotanicallydyedcolours,the collectionsseemguidedbythesequalities, ratherthanthematerialsbeingbenttofita particularlook. Useamixoflooseandmorefittedshapesto playonvolume,withsimplestripes, #Openworkandlayeringcompletingthestory. Coloro: A: 034-84-05 B 044-52-13 C: 022-50-29 D: 03689 06 E: 031 77 03, F: 103 45 01 Pantone: A: 12 0304 TCX, B: 17 0636 TCX, C: 16 1448 TCX, D: 11 0103 TCX, E: 14-4501 TCX, F: 18-4214 TCX A Chalk B: Olive Oil C: Oxide Orange D: Unbleached Cotton E: Pumice F: Basalt Tiger of Sweden Études
Carlota
Barrera
Etro
Federico Cina 10
Key items
Keyitems:grandadandbandcollarshirtsare important,asaredrawstringtrousers.Anyof theknitstylesinourKeyItemsFashion:Menʼs KnitwearS/S23workhere.Pairwithtailoring witharusticfeel,usingshapessuchasthe Nehrucollarjacket,shortssuitandsafari jacket,ascalledoutinKeyItemsFashion: Men'sTailoringS/S23.
Keyfootwear andaccessories:stylesthat leanintonaturalmaterialsandsimple constructionsworkhere,withthepanellingof contrastingtexturesakeyfeatureforsandals, bagsandsmallaccessories.Mono materiality (tofacilitateeasyrecycling)willalsobe importanthere.
Federico Cina
Etro
Giorgio Armani Emporio Armani
Federico Cina
11
Materials and details
Keymaterials anddetails:
Keyprints andpatterns:
chintzedcottons, responsiblysourcedwoolsandrawnatural fabricsfeature,withsilkandcellulosics definingtheorganicfeel.Prioritisemono materialdesignpracticetoenablethecreation ofsimplerpiecesthatareeasiertorecycle.
relaxedsummer stripesworkalongsidebotanicalinspirationfor cutoutsandsimpleoneortwo colourall over prints.LooktoourMenswearForecastS/S23: SoulSpacestory,Kitchenbody,formore inspiration.
Tiger of Sweden Feng Chen Wang
Federico Cina
Magliano
Lemaire
12
Harnessingthepent-upenergyofthe pandemicera,thisthemecombinesthe optimismofour#JoyfulExpressionstorywith theexoticvibesof#FantasyResort,which blazedacrosstheS/S23catwalkslikea hedonisticlaserlightshow.
#MainCharacterEnergy
Aswellassomeshapesthatowemuchtothe Beautifulmonstersstory,therearestatement piecesinhighcolour,boldprintand #HyperTexturewhichsitagainstabackboneof menswearessentialssuchastracksuits, tailoringandthe#ResortShirt. Coloro: A: 154-51-37, B: 065-52-27, C: 153-19-00, D: 010-4636 E: 024 55 38, F: 115 43 34 Pantone: A: 18 2436 TCX, B: 17 6154 TCX, C: 19 4203 TCX, D: 17 1663 TCX, E: 17-1350 TCX F: 18-4143 TCX A Luminous Pink B: Astro Green C: Black D: Luscious Red E: Orange Squash F: Satin Sky
Jekeun
Yoshiokubo
Marcelo Burlon County of Milan
Piga le Liberal Youth Ministry
13
Key items
Keyitems:itemsincludingtracksuits,hoodies, bikerjacketsandeventailoringallreceive sometypeofmakeover,eitherfromextreme colour,printandpattern,orwithastandout, statementdesignfeature.
Keyfootwear andaccessories:the #BikerBoothasjusttherightrebelliousfeel, whilestatement#RecoverySlidesand sneakersalsocomplementtheexperimental andplayfulfeel.
Dries Van Noten
Walter Van Beirendonck
University of Westminster
Cool TM
Yohji Yamamoto
14
Materials and details
Keymaterials anddetails:materialsare relativelystandard,sincetheirimpactcomes fromhighcolourandpattern,butfabricswitha #HyperTextureelementalsofeature.Trims anddetailsareplayfulandirreverentando en playonscale.
Keyprints andpatterns:thekindofclashes thathaveinspiredthenew#MashUptagare importanthere,includinganimalprints, #PsychedelicsandY2K-inspired #NoughtiesNostalgiathemes.
Liberal Youth Ministry University of Westminster
Jekeun
Dhruv Kapoor
Cool TM
15
S/S 23 most-used hashtags
TracktheFashionFeedtags boostedbythenewcatwalklooks –including#VibrantVacation,#Nauticaland#DopamineBrights alongwiththe keytags toemergefromour catwalks coverage.
FashionFeedtaggingnowrunsthroughallofWGSN'scatwalkscontent,enabling youtoevaluateatspeedcatwalklooksagainsttheemergingtrendsWGSNhas alreadybeguntrackinginthewiderglobalmarket.
Thistrendtagapproachenablesourproductanalyststodeliverrecommendations groundedinmarketandcatwalksdata.
FormoreinformationonourFashionFeedcatwalktrends,checkouttheFashion Feedandfilterthehashtags.
#VibrantVacation
WGSN Fashion Feed Tophashtags usedby WGSN strategists S/S 23
#ModularDesign #FantasyResort #DopamineBrights #Florals #ShortShort #Re nedResort #Nautical #RebelAcademia #RawEdge #GetYourGreens #BikerJacket #ArtInFashion #OversizedTote #Kidult #Horticool #Craftcore #AbstractCamo #StatementGraphics #PyamaDressing #Logomana #Letterman #JoyfulExpresson #GardenParty #DstressedTexture 16
Action points
Get the right balance between directional and more familiar trends
ForS/S23,thereareobviously commercialthemesandsome expressiveandpossiblyriskyones. Whileexcitingrangesarekeyfor attractingtheeyeofconsumerswhoare ladenwithchoice,it'sneverbeenmore importanttogetmoremainstream productrightsoasnottoalienatemore conservativeshoppers.Pickandchoose thebestelementsforyourmarket level,butbesuretotellclearvisual stories
Prioritise sustainable qualities in product development strategy
from the start of the season
Usethecatwalks'andbrands'effortsto makelessimpactontheplanetto inspirelastingchange.Moreethical sourcing,usingtransseasonalcolours andshapes,andevenfocusingonmono materialdesignswhereverpossiblefor betterrecyclability theseareall measuresthatgotowardsmaking rangesthataremorefuture-proofand alignwithconsumers'shi ingvalues andexpectations
Take a consumer-led approach, led by catwalk brands' strategies
1 2 3 4
Designersaredrivennotjustbysales figures,butbysocialmediaandthe cloutoftheirfollowers,sotheirneeds anddesiresaretakenextremely seriously.Assuch,it'sclearthemes bornoutoflockdowns,suchas #SupremeComfort,aregoingtoremain important.Thatwilliscontrastedbya parallelincreaseinappetitefor occasionwearandsexierlooks,asin personeventsbounceback
Be bold by enlivening key items with colour, print and details
Foranotherseason,keyitemsdon't hugelychange,soworkwiththisuseful factor.Leanintoyourbest lovedand best performingitemstooffer consumersafreshtake,noddingtothe #NotSoClassicthemethat'sgaining traction.Optfornewdesigndetailsand elementsofunexpectedcontrastin colour,printandexecutioningeneral
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Methodology
WGSNFashionFeed
Updateddaily,theFashionFeedisourfirststopforreportingonglobalemerging trends,curatedbyourteamofexperts.
ThisreportcontainsdatafromtheFeedcollectedacrossmen'sS/S23catwalk shows,producedbyourteamofexperts.
EGONlab
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