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UNIQLO /
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EVOLUTION THE TH EVOLUTION BY NAOMI KWOK
UNIQLO / EVOLUTION
22 nary Evolutio With An O L IQ N U h Approac ate A Cre Aims To gory te a C New
CONTENT THE PAST CONTENT 6 The Plain
Truth
16 lution The Evo
80 UNIQLO
46 CH BLOCKTE
54 AIRism
H
PRESENT re
42 ht Ultra Lig Down
50 DRY-EX
U
64 JEANS UNIQLO
36 HEATTEC
30 Cashme
88 rview CEO Inte
58 Bra Wireless
FUTURE 86 ssage CEO Me
74 UT
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UNIQLO IS NOT A FASHION COMPANY IT’S A TECHNOLOGY COMPANY 7
UNIQLO / PAST
THE PLAIN TRUTH
UNIQLO BOSS TADASHI YANAI EXPLAINS HIS PLANS FOR WORLD DOMINATION UNIQLO BOSS TADASHI YANAI
THE PLAIN TRUTH As he approaches old age, Tadashi Yanai, the most successful businessman in Japan at an estimated worth of about $15.4 billion, has a few more goals yet to meet. Nothing too taxing: merely to make his clothing-retail company the biggest in the world—it is currently the fourth—with the soundest ethical values, that’s all.
“There are more than 1,600 Uniqlo stores across 16 markets worldwide, more than 8OO in Japan, 400 in Greater China, and 49 in America. One store opens every week somewhere in the world.”
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ast year he set his manufacturing and re-
tail company, Fast Retailing, which owns the clothing brand Uniqlo, the adrenalin-inducing target of five trillion yen ($44 billion) per year
sales by the year 2020. And yet biggest is not enough. The older Yanai gets, the more heart he wants to put
into his business. ‘I’m quite old now. My life is ending, and before I die I have to do something,’ he tells me with more levity than these words might suggest.
‘What we say and what we do need to be equal. This is the most important thing.’
Yanai, a married man with two adult sons, one of whom works for Uniqlo, doesn’t look like someone ready to quit this mortal coil any time soon. Short, sturdy and round-faced in a blue suit (he usually wears +J from a
Uniqlo collaboration with the German designer Jil Sander), he is 67 and full of vigour. He starts off interviews
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flagship with a roof garden, a floor dedicated to special events and a clothing collaboration with Liberty.
of which, 311 Oxford Street, has been refurbished over the past year and will this month re-open as a five-storey
and 49 in America. One store opens every week somewhere in the world. In Greater London there are 10, the biggest
There are more than 1,600 Uniqlo stores across 16 markets worldwide, more than 8oo in Japan, 400 in Greater China,
woman and children—meant to fit usefully into a life, which is presumably why Uniqlo started calling it LifeWear.
synonymous with Japanese manufacturing. Discreetly stylish rather than fashionable, it is apparel – for men,
past 12 years, a dependable drop-in for clothes with the simple design, functionality and technological innovation
of it—its spend on advertising is minimal. But for Londoners its bright, white boxy stores have become, over the
If you live outside London, you may never have been to a Uniqlo, the apple of the Fast Retailing eye, or even heard
of accuracy prefers to answer in Japanese), there is no mistaking his drive.
interpreters sitting at the other end of a long table (he speaks and understands English well, but for the purposes
in the Japanese capital. And despite the distancing nature of an interview translated through earphones by two
both times in the boardroom adjoining his office on the 31st floor of Tokyo Midtown, the second highest tower
briskly and gradually thaws into if not warmth, then at least cheerfulness, I’ve met him twice in the past year,
BY KATE FINNIGAN
UNIQLO’s parent company Fast Retailing is headquartered Tokyo’s second highest building - Tokyo Midtown.
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UNIQLO and Fast Retailing’s, Chairman, Founder, and CEO Tadashi Yanai is posing cheerfully for the photo.
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‘I’m quite old now. My life is ending, and before I die I have to do something,’
UNIQLO / PAST
equally he has no interest in expanding in the UK beyond the capital.
There is a backstory here. Few people remember, but in 2001 Uniqlo opened 20 stores in the UK, most of them outside London, an exercise BY KATE FINNIGAN
Yanai describes with good humour as ‘a devastating debut’. (He enjoys talking about failure: his 1991 autobiography is called One Win,
Nine Losses.) The brand, which he founded in Hiroshima in 1984, was initially built on a pile-em-high, sell-em-cheap model, and had, he
says, ‘made a gold mine’ in Japan, where it had been one of the first
[makes] a sad world and it’s meaningless, that’s my philosophy.’
‘a roadblock’ to opening more properties in the city right now, but
says today. ‘I want to be valued for offering good clothes. To be known for being cheap is sad. It
He is frustrated that the high cost of London real estate presents
in the same year with five stores in the capital.‘I am not interested in being the cheapest,’ he
to the world who we are.’
thermal undergarments, today two of its most successful categories, and returned to the UK
we want to create the best store there — because we can demonstrate
ing low-priced, low-quality products. It started producing cashmere and its new Heattech
and the location of Oxford Street is the centre of the centre. That’s why
In 2004 the company announced the new Global Quality Declaration, a promise to stop mak-
says, ‘but for the world. It is a showcase. You attract so many tourists,
THE ANNOUCEMENT
Uniqlo needs to be there.‘London exists not for the sake of the UK,’ he
he was forced to retire, lick his wounds and reconsider his strategy for world domination.
of M&S and Next, has a very particular view of the capital and why
companies to sell fleece jackets. But the model simply did not translate to the UK and the
Yanai, an Anglophile inspired to create Uniqlo partly by the success
company ended up closing every store. Yanai laughs about it now, but for three years back then
Six years later after UNIQLO’s first venture into the UK, in November 2007, it took the major step of opening a global flagship store on London’s 311 Oxford Street.
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12 Uniqlo’s designer collaborations are not flashy in the style of H&M’s annual hype-fests.
from fast-fashion brands like Zara, and its sales calendars are driven by product development rather than trends.
has been joined by Airism, a range of garments to keep you cool in warmer temperatures. It has a different model
a fashion company, it’s a technology company.’ Heattech continues to advance—Heattech jeans anyone?—and
Toray to create technologically driven fabrics that serve practical climatic needs. Yanai has said, ‘Uniqlo is not
white Oxford will set you back less than £20). The company has worked increasingly with the innovation giant
down jackets, its Japanese denim, made using traditional techniques, and, increasingly, its shirting (a good-quality
because, as Yanai says, ‘no one else is making them in the same quantities’ , it has become known for its light
Along with the colourful cashmere and merino knitwear, which can be priced at around £70 and £25 respectively
of understated, universal standard of class. ‘We want to sell good clothing to all people, not just the few,’ he says.
chain—‘fun fashion at fabulously low prices’—of 335 stores in Asia, to do that. But with Uniqlo he aspires to a kind
Neither is he interested in chasing trends, although admittedly he has GU (pronounced ’ jee-yu’), a younger retail
UNIQLO / PAST Yanai enlisted the
American marketing guru
John Jay, whose previous
clients include Nike.
They are not necessarily even with designers. The French former
model Inès de la Fressange has been working with the brand on a
successful line for four years and was last year joined by Carine Roitfeld,
the ex-editor of Vogue Paris, whose collection is inspired by her own
distinctive rock’n’roll aesthetic; Christophe Lemaire, the luxury
minimalist designer, also came to the fold. These partnerships have
added feminine appeal to a retailer that by its utilitarian nature could
appeal more to the straightforward demands of the male shopper.
Fast Retailing is now a multi-brand international company. As well
as Uniqlo and GU, it owns the fashion labels Theory, Helmut Lang,
J Brand, Comptoir des Cotonniers and the lingerie company Princess
came its president in 1984 and the same year opened his own store, the Unique Clothing Warehouse —later shortened—in Hiroshima.
Although Uniqlo only makes a very limited amount of graduating in 1971. His father’s business had expanded to a chain of 22 stores when Yanai be-
knew right from the start. He went on to study economics and politics at Waseda University,
family lived above the shop alongside the store’s associates. Retail, he says, was everything he
Tadashi Yanai was born on February 7, 1949, in Yamaguchi Prefecture, the son of a tailor. The
their hotel—Yanai loves a tourist) within three hours.
of the brand, with another target: customers receiving goods they order in store at home (or
he is opening more Uniqlo stores and working on an operation to improve the digital offering
company culture, which includes three months of training for every new employee’. Meanwhile,
reported Forbes, owing to ‘his strategy of creating flagship stores and keeping tight control of
target for Uniqlo, which reported a 65 per cent increase in international sales in 2014 – in part,
prospective buys as they can put deals in jeopardy. And he says he’s ‘on track’ to meet his 2020
Tam-Tam. At some point he will probably buy another international label. He won’t talk about
BY KATE FINNIGAN
performance sportswear, it sponsors the tennis players Novak Djokovic, Kei Nishikori and Shingo Kunieda,
and the Australian golfer Adam Scott. Yanai is a big
sports fan, a keen golfer who has a miniature course in his garden, and there is a sense that he operates
like a manager, the Alex Ferguson of retail, coaching his business team towards success with psychological
strategies. ‘Why not say you will be the biggest?’ he
says, when I ask him why being number one matters.
‘If you set this goal then people have to think differently about how they are going to meet it.’
THE MVP Last year he brought on another star player in the form
of the American marketing guru John Jay, whose previous clients include Nike. Jay now commutes to Tokyo
from Portland, Oregon. Since he joined there has been a subtle change in the creative message that Uniqlo
delivers—Jay is helping to put heart and meaning into the brand.
You could see it in the presentation for the spring col-
lections put on for a gathering of international press the day before I met Yanai. Whereas six months before the clothes had been simply and rather unimaginitively displayed on mannequins or on rails, this time there
was a fashion show—models walking in Uniqlo appar-
el—as well as a series of theatre-like sets, with other models posing in sportswear on a mock-up of a New York street scene, or relaxing in loungewear in a smart
sitting room. If it was reminiscent of the domestic
settings one travels through at an Ikea store, that was
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no bad thing. Why not aspire to be the Ikea of clothes?
I ask Yanai if Uniqlo is trying to be a more thoughtful
brand. ‘I think so,’ he says. ‘I want to make truly au-
thentic good clothes that have never existed before. I
am doing my best to achieve that.’
He agrees that ethics have become more important
to him as the business has blossomed. He wants Fast
Retailing to become a company that is ‘willing to give
back to society’. There have been various philanthropic
donations towards aid, training and clothing, particu-
larly to underprivileged children. In March 2011 Yanai
personally donated one billion yen to the victims of
the Sendai earthquake.
For the past 10 years, Uniqlo has been engaged in a pro-
gramme with UNHCR, the UN Refugee Agency, recycling
clothes for refugees. In November Yanai promised a
donation of $10 million over three years to help UNHCR
respond to acute humanitarian crises. He also offered
the organisation 150,000 items of Heattech clothing.
‘I want to make sure that this company will grow and
people will be happy to have us around—because that’s
14 it’s a shutter street; you hardly see any of the retailers in business because
were built right next to one another. Today if I visit the street where I lived
ry school closed. The coastal area became industrialised; chemical factories
my classmates because their family moved elsewhere and then our prima-
business and the local population got dramatically reduced. I lost many of
Where I grew up was a mining city, and the mining industry went out of
wonder why,’ he says. ‘I’m impatient and that’s because of my upbringing.
I wonder what continues to drive him and why he wants to push harder? ‘I
doesn’t need anybody except for those who do good things for it.’
what kind of positive contribution are you making to the world? The world
learning, then nobody in the UK, for example, will respect us. And three:
commercial success, if we are only interested in making money and not
kind of benefit are you getting from us by coming to our country? If it’s only
market. Number one: who are you; where did you come from? Two: what
are three questions we could be asked when we are ready to tap into another
the only criterion of survival,’ says Yanai. ‘I always say to our people, there
UNIQLO / PAST
“We want to sell good clothing to all people, not just the few.”
The French former model Inès de la Fressange has been working with the brand on a successful line for four years.
‘If you keep climbing up, then you see another, higher mountain. You climb they relocated to suburban malls. It makes you feel sad
walking around. Change, I think, always comes much sooner and faster than you anticipate, and that is why I am so impatient to keep doing more.’
At a dinner in Kyoto last year I sat next to Yanai’s son,
Koji Yanai, the group senior vice president of Fast
Retailing, and spoke briefly about his father. ‘My
father is not a superhero,’ he said. At the time the comment jarred, but I later realised what he meant was that Tadashi Yanai had only done what anyone could do—he is an ordinary but determined man.
‘I’m never really satisfied with anything because this world is ever-changing,’ Yanai says as our discussion in
up that peak and see another.
I will pass away
eventually because that is life.
But I am climbing mountains because I enjoy the process of climbing a mountain.’
BY KATE FINNIGAN
the board-room draws to a close.
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UNIQLO / PAST
UNIQLO’s first location, the Fukuromachi Store, opens in Hiroshima (closes in August 1991)
Men’s Shop Ogori Shoji is founded in Ube City, Yamaguchi Prefecture
1949.3
1963.5 Ogori Shoji Co., Ltd. is established with 6 million yen in capital
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1984.6
EVOLUTION THE 1985.6 EVOLUTION Ogori Shoji Co., Ltd. is established with 6 million yen in capital
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UNIQLO / PAST 1998.2 Constru ctio head off n of the ice finis he Yamagu chi Prefe s in cture
e 1996.11 ens in th ffice op t ic Tokyo o tr is d ibuya city’s Sh
1991.9 Ogori Sh oji changes Co., Ltd. its nam e Fast Re tailing C to o., Ltd.
1998.10 UNIQLO’s 1,9 campaig 00-yen fleece n genera te level of public in s a high terest 1998.11 The UNIQ LO opens in Harajuku Store To urban U kyo, the first NIQLO s 2000.10 ns tore tore ope Online s s s e for busin
1990s 1994.7 sts its tailing li shima Fast Re iro H e on th shares e g n a h xc Stock E 1997.4 Fast Re tailing li sts shares on the s its eco section of the To nd ky Stock E xchange o
1999.2 sts its tailing li Fast Re rst fi on the shares kyo To e th of section e g xchan Stock E
2002.9 First UN IQLO Ch ina store opens in Shangh ai
2000s 2001.9 First ov erse store op as UNIQLO ens in London
s
n 1999.4 ffice ope anghai o h S LO IQ UN
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2002.4 UNIQLO Des (current ign Studio R&D Cen te begins operatio r) ns
2004.10 t UNIQLO e-forma hi, First larg in Shinsaibas ens are p u o q s re 0 0 to s over 1,6 h it w a Osak space of floor meters 2004.12 Studio Design r) UNIQLO D Cente R y the & (currentl w York Ne opens in
a 2005.9 uth Kore IQLO So l u First UN o e S ens in store op
. store IQLO U.S First UN ew Jersey N opens in 2006) in s e s lo (c Kong LO Hong sim IQ N U t s eT Fir ens in th store op i Sha Tsu NIQLO DY by U First BO pecialty uns women’s tore opens in s r a s e derw ine halt Ginza (l ’s o y k o T st 2009) in Augu
re 2005.10 IQLO sto rmat UN o y Large-fo k Ginza, To opens in S store IQLO KID First UN s in July 2009) alt opens (h 2005.11
g a holdin e to Adopts r tu c y stru compan IQLO N U e th e reinforc develop new nd brand a pportunities so busines
2006.3 Establis hes G.U . Co., Ltd to deve . lop the low-pri g.u. cas ced ual cloth ing bran d 2006.6 Forms a str busines ategic s partne rsh with To ray Indu ip stries, In c. 2006.9 Begins its A Recyclin ll-Product g Initiati ve
2006.10 First g.u . store o pe in Ichik awa Cit ns y, Chiba Prefectu re 2006.11 UNIQLO New York So Store op ens as th ho e brand’s firs flagship t global store
and 2007.3 Harborl e Kobe th re s to n s e Op rmat large-fo Store, a ,300 square er 3 with ov space of floor meters
T-shirt 2007.4 pecialty KU. s e th s Open HARAJU T STORE store, U
edai 2007.5 a Chitos Setagay e th f o UNIQLO e n ns as o e p o in re Sto stores UNIQLO largest ith more w , n a p Ja of eastern square meters 00 than 3,3 ace floor sp
2007.10 ATTECH IQLO HE First UN ontributes to a nc campaig rge in sales su e iv s mas t 2007.11 rd Stree 311 Oxfo don as UNIQLO n o ens in L Store op second global d’s n ra the b store ip h s g fla re 2007.12 dong Sto Myeong erg UNIQLO la t rs a s the fi opens a uth Kore re in So to s t a form re nce sto IQLO Fra e, Paris First UN s n La Defe opens in
2008.5 Donates clo emergen thing as cy aid to victims of the S ichu in weste an Earthquake rn China 2008.6 UNIQLOC K blog p art wins the Gra nd Prix at the Cannes Lions In ternatio Festival nal of of the w Creativity, one orld’s to p three advertis ing even ts
2008.8 Establis hes a jo int venture wit Tai Reta h Wing il Pte. L td. to expand in Singa pore
ing 2009.3 consult design Signs a r its products t fo worldcontrac ander, a S il J r . s designe with M fashion d e n w o ren re store 2009.4 Singapo O L IQ Mall N U First pines 1 the Tam in s n e p o
ct 2009.8 n contra affiliatio eelchair n a s n Sig l wh fessiona da with pro r Shingo Kunie e y la p is n ten
2009.10 era Store Paris Op the UNIQLO as France opens in d global ir th brand’s store flagship the sales of ve begins ti ra o b a ll UNIQLO o ted tion, a c c ra e b ll o le c e J+ d with c at e c u d ro line p Sander, d r Ms. Jil rl designe ughout the wo ro stores th g’s Retailin tes Fast a h it Celebra w niversary , drawing 60th an e sale v ti ra o a commem the Ginz ople to in g in 2,000 pe n e p 6 a.m. o store’s Tokyo l a centr
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UNIQLO / PAST
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2011.1 hip agre sponsors Signs a ri o ik h ei Nis player K
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20
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2012.3 UNIQLO Ginz the bran a Store opens in d’s ninth global fl Tokyo as agship store Third g.u . fl Ginza, To agship store o pens in kyo Launche s the UN IQ Collecti on, a co LO X UNDERCOV llab ER the cult -hit Und orative line wit ercover h fashion label 2012.5 Appoints Novak D jokovic Brand A as Glob mbassa al dor 2012.6 First UN IQLO Ph ilippine in Manil s store a
2015.8 s a new launche UNIQLO roject in OR ALL p Disney MAGIC F h it w tion collabora lobal
2013.3 ott as G Adam Sc Appoints ssador mba Brand A
s
open 2013.4 e Store e Theatr brand’s e L O L IQ UN the Kong as in Hong l flagship store a b tenth glo re
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LO 2013. 7 en UNIQ o Grame sly in u o e n a First tw n simult e p o s store sh anglade Dhaka, B opens 2013.9 ai Store Shangh lobal flagO L IQ N U ag ghai as in Shan re ship sto opens U store rseas G first step e v o t s Fir the ghai as n in Shan xpansio e l a b glo toward
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2014.4 First UN IQLO Au strali opens in Melbourn a store e First UN IQLO Ge rma (global flagship ny store store) o Berlin pens in The UNIQ LO opens in Okachimachi S tore To hotspot kyo as a globa l store 2014.9 First GU
store op
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ies 2015.11 y Industr nd Tora 5-year a O L IQ UN ird ce the th gic announ ate tr s ir e th w plan for velop ne e d hip to ls partners ria al mate function 2015.12 issues tailimg red Fast Re unsecu in lion ¥250 bil nds bo straight
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UNIQLO / PAST
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UNIQLO
[YOU-nee-klo] noun UNIQLO has enjoyed superb growth by providing high quality casual wear at remarkably affordable prices for men, women and kids Our clothes are simple and essential yet universal, so people can freely combine them with their own unique styles, in any way they choose, every day of the year. Even since UNIQLOs humble beginnings in 1984, UNIQLO has continued to aspire towards excellence in quality, design and technology, and has managed to achieve as such. But even so, UNIQLO still strives onwards and upwards. Not in pursuit of perfection, but in EVOLUTION.
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UNIQLO / PAST
WITH AN EVOLUTIONARY APPROACH
UNIQLO’s launched LifeWear in Paris for its 2013 F/W Collection.
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BY VIRKRAM ALEXI KANSARA
BoF spoke to senior executives at the launch of Uniqlo’s new Lifewear concept to understand the guiding principles and goals of an apparel company more rooted in technology than fashion.
UNIQLO AIMS TO CREATE A NEW CATEGORY
25
ual flair of the presentation—what Uniqlo executives often call “the spice” or “the topping”—is a concept,
and a company, more geared around innovation than fashion. The collection was the first to be presented under the brand’s newly unveiled tagline, Lifewear.
“Lifewear is the theme of our collection. But it’s meant to be continued every season. Like iPhone 4, iPhone 5. It’s the idea of continuation, but with updates: new
elements, new fabrics,” explained Naoki Takizawa,
Uniqlo’s design director. The Apple analogy is revealing. Tadashi Yanai, founder and chief executive of Fast
Retailing, which owns Uniqlo, is fond of saying that “Uniqlo is not a fashion company, it’s a tech-
nology company.” And indeed, the brand’s approach to
making apparel has more in common with the iterative approach to product development embraced by the
technology industry than the cyclical, trend-driven rhythm of the fashion industry.
26
improvement of life. Fashion alone does not deliver on these goals.”
headpieces by Katsuya Kamo. But underneath the vis-
chief executive of Uniqlo Europe. “Technology is key for our brand which is all about quality, innovation and the
fashion director, Nicola Formichetti, with stunning
boundaries to constantly add innovation and excitement from season to season,” added Dr. Berndt Hauptkorn,
—the collection was beautifully styled by the brand’s
and their real lives. We have a set of projects such as Heattech, Ultra Light Down or Cashmere, and we stretch the
ration with Swedish textiles collective 10-Gruppen
start designing with a vague trend in terms of colour or fashion; we start with the requirements of real people
Light Down, Ultra Stretch Jeans and Topics, a collabo-
proving and updating,” said Yuki Katsuta, Uniqlo’s senior vice president of global research and design. “We don’t
but mix-and-matchable “projects”—including Ultra
themes like other companies. We are much more product focused. Year by year, we are constantly testing, im-
Winter 2013 collection. Composed of eleven distinct,
proach, planning production of its wardrobe essentials up to a year in advance. “We don’t have seasonal fashion
nequins displayed pieces from Uniqlo’s colourful Fall/
Zara has built the world’s largest apparel business based on rapidly responding to fast-changing fashion
space on rue Commines where neatly arranged man-
In fact, despite the name of its parent company, it’s a misnomer to call Uniqlo a ‘fast fashion’ company. While
PARIS, FRANCE—Natural light flooded the serene
trends, getting items from factory to store in approximately two weeks, Uniqlo takes the exact opposite ap-
UNIQLO / PAST
“Lifewear is meant
BY VIRKRAM ALEXI KANSARA
to be continued every season.
UNIQLO’s LifeWear 2017 F/W presentation in New York.
Like iPhone 4, iPhone 5.” 27
28
With Lifewear, Uniqlo is aiming to create an entirely
new category of clothing, not unlike the way Apple’s
iPad created a new category of computing. “You had
haute couture and prêt-à-porter. And now casualwear
and sportswear. For Mr Yanai, Lifewear is a new cat-
egory,” said Takizawa. Specifically, Lifewear is targeting
the emerging opportunity between casualwear and
sportswear, which helps to explain why Uniqlo has
recently teamed up with tennis and golf champions
Novak Djokovic and Adam Scott, who are both “global but for the future.”
Uniqlo products should have the same value as pantyhose,
wintertime, even if it’s zero degrees,” he said. “Maybe
means everyone can show legs and wear a skirt in the
other direction.
space, between sportswear and casualwear, from the
which appears to be coming at the same opportunity
panies like Zara and H&M, but sporting giants like Nike,
Uniqlo’s true competition may not be fast fashion com-
instead of just following fashion trends.” Seen this way,
result in better clothes that would change clothing itself,
phisticated uniforms; some of the essence of that could
and sports. For example, athletes wear technically so-
your life better could be in the middle between fashion
innovation that impacts your actual life. How to make
a lot of fashion trends going on, but there is no true
Suwa, Uniqlo’s director of global marketing. “There are
“Between fashion and sports is a new area,” said Kensuke
brand ambassadors” for the company. an innovation like pantyhose creates major change. It
ated, lifestyles changed. Fashion is always changing, but
of fashion? It’s pantyhose.’ When pantyhose was cre-
‘What is the most important innovation in the history
I had my first interview with Mr Yanai, he said to me:
he said. “I’ll tell you a story,” added Takizawa. “When
Fashion is just the story around that fundamental value,”
giness. “A product should have a fundamental value.
Industries, that moulds to the body, eliminating bag-
toped in partnership with chemicals company Toray
Katsuta gave the example of Ultra Stretch Jeans, which
UNIQLO / PAST
“Between fashion and sports is a new area”
LIFEWEAR [lahyf-wair] noun
Who you are, what you believe in: that’s what you wear every day. And that is what we make clothing for. Welcome to a new way of apparel. Apparel that comes from our Japanese values of simplicity, quality and longevity. Designed to be of the time and for the time. Made with such modern elegance that it becomes the building blocks of your style. A perfect shirt that is always being made more perfect. The simplest design hiding the most thoughtful and modern details. The best in fit and fabric made to be affordable and accessible to all. Clothing that we are constantly innovating, bringing more warmth, more lightness, better design, and better comfort to your life. It never stops evolving because your life never stops changing. Simple apparel with a not-so-simple purpose: SIMPLE MADE BETTER
29
UNIQLO / PRESENT
WHY DO WE GET DRESSED?
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THAT’S THE SCIENCE OF LIFEWEAR
UNIQLO / CASHMERE
CASHMERE
32
THE STORY BEHIND YOUR FAVOURITE SWEATER A famous commitment to detail, from quality to design. UNIQLO’s cashmere sweaters are renowned for their softness and warmth, but have you ever wondered how your favourite sweater made it to the store? To start, the cashmere must come from goats raised in conditions with dramatic variations in temperature, like in Inner Mongolia. To combat the fickle temperatures, the goats will grow an undercoat of soft, fine hair under their coarse outer fleece. When the weather gets warm, they naturally shed this soft hair, only about 100 grams or so, and we use it to weave into amazingly soft sweaters. Once the hair is collected, the process begins.
1. SELECTION Cashmere goats spend all year roaming the grasslands, so the raw wool they shed
can contain various impurities like dirt
and sand. It must be checked visually
and sorted by hand. Cashmere fibres are so fine that they would be damaged by going through a machine, so this process has to be done manually.
33
UNIQLO / CASHMERE
2. QUALITY CONTROL Strict checks are carried out to ensure that only 100% cashmere is used in our
sweaters. Cashmere fibres are extremely
fine and can’t be identified by the naked eye, so we use a microscope. After this strict quality control, products can be sold as 100% cashmere.
3. DYEING The cashmere is dyed in deep, unique shades produced by blending between
five and ten different colours together into one.
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4. SPINNING The spinning process for cashmere is
almost the same as that for normal wool, but at UNIQLO, we carefully verify the twist of the wool many times in order to produce the optimum texture.
5. SEWING The work of piecing garments together is all done by hand by expert needleworkers.
6. FINISHING This process, called “fulling�, is precisely controlled so that our sweaters have the
optimum texture. It makes the cashmere as soft as possible without making it prone to pilling. After drying, a cashmere expert checks each garment, one by one.
After being visually checked, each piece of garment is measured to ensure that sleeves and collars are the correct size. These garments are then sent to stores
to be bought and endlessly enjoyed by sweater lovers across the globe.
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UNIQLO / PRESENT
EX DRY-EX
WATER RESISTANT
ORDOUR CONTROL
BREATHABLE
WATER REPELLENY
SOFT TEXTURE
WIND PROOF
STRETCH
ANTI-STATIC
HEAT RETENTION
DURABLE WATER REPELLENY
UV CUT
MAKING INNOVATION THE NEW TRADITION
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UNIQLO / HEATTECH
THE HEAT GENERATION
A powerful solution to fight the cold, an innovation to change the way we dress
Japan Technology wear,
mission to create clothing that betters
our lives, made the bold decision to challenge that common sense. To accomplish
the impossible UNIQLO partnered with Toray, the leading Japanese chemical
engineering firm whose products range
from Ultrasuede to the carbon fibre composites used in the Boeing 787.
Toray put their textile engineers to task Larger rayon fibres absorb moisture from the skin. Then, it retains, reemits, and maintained heat within air pockets (in yellow) formed by the smaller microacrylic fibres to help keep you warm.
developing fibres that could answer UNIQLO’s demands. The first viable solution was the combination of moisture
wicking polyester and hollow cotton fibre
types and over 10,000 samples to arrive at the HEATTECH we now know.
years ago, UNIQLO, in their ever vigilant
technologies have since taken it’s place. It has required over 100 proto-
that we all know so well. But fifteen
original polyester and cotton combination has been retired and new
common sense of layering up for the cold
to keep up with UNIQLO’s relentless demand for improvement. The
sounds preposterous and defies the
evolution seeing its very fundamental concept broken down and rebuilt
Micro-acrylic and rayon fibres are spun together combining their unique properties in a single yarn.
Over the years it has gone through multiple generations, a constant
cold−a garment that could reduce
bulk yet warm the body. The very idea
and UNIQLO challenged Toray to improve and refine their creation.
warmth, a single layer to resist the
HEATTECH was met with an enthusiastic response but for UNIQLO it
single, thin layer of cloth to provide
thread. And so HEATTECH was born.Debuting to the world in 2003,
I
t was a simple but radical idea. A
was only a beginning. Though successful, HEATTECH was not perfect
HEATTECH transforms what we wear in winter and transforms winter worldwide.
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UNIQLO / HEATTECH Today’s HEATTECH is made up of four
distinct fibres that are specifically engineered to work in tandem to provide the body with optimum warmth and
HEATTECH functions
process is rayon. Made from wood pulp,
are not limited to
comfort. The first fibre in the warming
rayon is what is called a cellulose fibre. And due to its innate properties it absorbs
moisture from the body and, through a process called heat adsorption, retains
the heat from the kinetic energy created by the movement of the H2O molecules.
The second fibre is a microacrylic specifically developed by Toray for HEATTECH.
HEAT ABSORPTION
HEAT RETENTION
SOFT TEXTURE
ORDOUR CONTROL
STRETCH
QUICKY DRY
These ultra-fine fibres, smooth and
silk-like, are one-tenth the thickness of a human hair. Bundled together, they
create air pockets that maintain the heat that’s been reemitted from the rayon. It’s
the combination of the rayon and microacrylic fibres working in succession that is the essence of HEATTECH.
The other two fibres that are a part of
HEATTECH help the fabric wear and feel better. Polyurethane is a stretchable and
elastic fibre that allows HEATTECH to move
with the body, to keep every centimetre of skin warm and to offer ease and comfort.
ANTI-STATIC NON-DEFORMING BREATHABLE
The last component, polyester, allows the fabric to retain its shape and structure after multiple washings and wear.
40
“HEATTECH is always and Only a beginning.”
As onsite experts demonstrated, each piece of HEATTECH in the range is now made with rare Argan oil from Morocco that adds a moisturising effect to give it that silky, smooth finish. When tested under the microscope, it’s also shown to wick away sweat and control body odor with its antibacterial properties.
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always and only a beginning.
thinnest acrylic fibre in the world. For UNIQLO and Toray, HEATTECH is
fibres used in women’s HEATTECH, measuring at .06 microns, became the
pushing the limits of what these fibres can do. And in 2015 the micro-acrylic
an updated knit construction and a napped inner surface for more warmth,
2013, a new addition to the HEATTECH family, HEATTECH EXTRA WARM, sees
you read these very pages, HEATTECH is undergoing a transformation. As of
and redevelop HEATTECH’s technology to adapt to our changing lives. As
customers. A team of over 30 people at Toray is constantly working to develop
Toray’s engineering breakthroughs as well as demands from its legion of loyal
warmth. Each year UNIQLO pushes HEATTECH forward, taking into account
morrow promises better engineering, better solutions, and ultimately more
But, today’s HEATTECH is only today’s HEATTECH. The HEATTECH of to-
UNIQLO / HEATTECH
15TH YEAR In November, UNIQLO and its partner in crime Toray Industries got together at ‘The Art and Science of LifeWear’ event in New York to celebrate 15 years of innovation. Guests were able to see the full HEATTECH range in all its glory—touching and feeling the super smooth tops, T-shirts, sweaters and accessories on display.
2003
2005
HEATTECH introduced with Heat warming and heat retention
2008
WOMEN’S Moisture retention
GLOBAL Availability
2004
2007
2009
MEN’s Antimicrobial and dry functions
Stretch function
Anti-static and shape retention
2010
2012
2015
WOMEN’S Thinner fibers for a silkier feel
MEN’S Moisture absorption and release
WOMEN’S World’s thinnest acrylic fibre
2011
2013
MEN’S Deodorizing function
HEATTECH EXTRA WARM introduced 43
UNIQLO / ULTRA LIGHT DOWN
“NEW ULTRA DOWN” is transforming winter around the world
A special p hind e b cret s of e s The lightnes WN” the T DO
H G I L RA
“ULT
rocess enables insertio direct n of do into the wn fabric!
Use of u
ltrathin th rea preser d to ve the softne ss the fab of ric
U
niqlo and Toray have joined forces in the joint development of “New Ultra Light Down,” an outerwear jacket that features both warmth
and an amazingly light weight of only 206g
through application of special technologies. The compact “New Ultra Light Down” jacket and parker can be
folded and pocketed, or kept in a bag, making for con-
venience of portability. This new down jacket is not only an item indispensable for autumn and winter, seasons
for outings prone to changes in temperature, but is also wearable over or under other garments.
Carefully selected high-quality premium down ensures a suitable degree of warmth without using more down than necessary.
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UNIQLO / ULTRA LIGHT DOWN MEN’s Ultra Light Down Seamless Parka $99.90
MEN’s Ultra Light Down Compact Jacket $69.90
MEN’s Ultra Light Down Jacket $89.90
MEN’s Ultra Light Down Vest $49.90
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WOMEN’s Ultra Light Down Jacket $89.90
MEN’s Ultra Light Down Compact Vest $49.90
WOMEN’s Ultra Light Down Seamless Parka $99.90
WOMEN’s Ultra Light Down Compact Jacket $69.90
t
Ultra Light Down Compact Jacket $69.90
WOMEN’s Ultra Light Down Vest $49.90
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UNIQLO / BLOCKTECH
BLOCKTECH
HCETKCOLB
YOUR ALL WEATHER SOLUTION You might have noticed the evenings getting brighter and the temperatures falling, but don’t break out the sunnies just yet. Dressing rain-appropriate is actually a doddle when you know what to wear. That’s why we created B L O C K T E C H
I T ’ S WAT E R R E P E L L E N T Our Blocktech features seamless bonding to prevent
rain from seeping in. That mean there’s nowhere for the rain to penetrate. Blocktech parka’s been upgraded with a soft-touch material that lets the rain slip straight off you without leaving any residue behind.
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UNIQLO / BLOCKTECH IT’S WIND PROOF For the days when you don’t wish to be
battered by the wind, while simultane-
ously working an umbrella, you’ll need something windproof. It might look thin, but the laminated film on this Blocktech
parka is enough to shield you from April’s blustery winds.
IT’S STYLISH This year we’ve added the new Blocktech
Soutien Collar coat to the line-up. It’s sleek, stylish and refined so you can wear it to work, on dinner dates and pretty much everywhere else.
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I T ’ S B R E AT H A B L E It’s not just the elements that a Blocktech parka protects you from; it’s also highly breathable thanks to its light and loose barely-there shell so
you’ll want to whip it out on bike rides and take it hiking with you on the weekends.
I T ’ S T R A V E L - F R I E N D LY Not only do our Blocktech parkas have a built-in slot for your MP3 player and phone, but they’re also lightweight enough to be packed up and stashed away in a
backpack. So, whether you’re a city dweller or a world traveller, a packable parka is an essential.
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UNIQLO / DRY-EX
EX DRY-EX
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CHANGING THE GAME
Dancer Sonoya Mizuno in Women AIRism racerback bra sleeveless top, Women AIRism UV Cut mesh full zip hoodie, and Women Dry sweat pants.
As the world changes so must the clothes we wear.
And the world is changing quickly. Venturing further into the 21st century, our changing way of life creates
new demands on our clothes. Activewear, intended for
high-performance sports and exercise, has crossed over into the everyday. Comfort and practicality define our modern times. For UNIQLO, making clothes
to better all aspects of our lives, there is no line of
separation. Activewear is not only for the gym or for the court. It’s for a contemporary way of life.
high-performance for the everyday Intense activity demands a lot from your body, which in turn demands a lot from your clothes. To counter
the effects of bodily exertion UNIQLO has DRY EX, a
material that can dry even the most excessive per-
spiration with rapid speed. For instance, DRY EX,
mounted for DRY EX Polo Shirts, utilises a unique custom arch-shaped fabric that reduces the skin-toProfessional Tennis Player Novak Djokovic in a Dry EX short sleeve polo shirt and shorts.
moisture ratio. It’s a small detail with a powerful effect that helps you keep your composure during life’s most strenuous activities.
53
UNIQLO / DRY-EX
I
nnovation occurs not only in technology but also in culture. It’s
about an understanding. Clothing that was once only acceptable for the gym can now be worn as a casual look for the office. Values
evolve, perceptions change, and this nearly imperceptible shift is
the essence of fashion. It requires an understanding of today’s world and a good idea of what it might be tomorrow. Details and fabrics
once associated with sports or exercise are no longer defined by their origins. Instead, they represent comfort without the sacrifice
of style. They offer innovation and elegance as one and the same. For UNIQLO, they represent an optimistic anticipation of what is yet
to come: clothes to make you look better, feel better, and live better.
Clothing certainly cannot predict the future but it can help you face it on your own terms.
Professional Golfer Adam Scott in a simple, comfortable, easy to move in Dry Pique designed polo shirt, and Dry Stretch active shorts.
Runner Lauren Young in a Light Pocketable Parka, AIRism tank top, dry sweat pants, and comfort bra.
innovation meets form
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Professional Tennis Player Kei Nishikori in a Dry EX crew neck short sleeve t-shirt, Dry EX shorts, and Pile mesh short socks.
sports enthusiasts out there, but is also designed for daily wear.
improving design and materials to being more comfort to the wearer. Uniqlo Sports is not only for the fitness and
Japanese values of simplicity, quality, and longevity. Uniqlo continues to innovate its clothing lines, constantly
ness, fun, and fashion, this newest clothing line is part of the Uniqlo LifeWear collection, which is inspired by the
DRY EX range is refined and improved. It’s an everyday solution derived from extreme performance. Merging fit-
exclusively in DRY EX, putting its technology to the test with every match. Using their feedback and insight the
professional athletes. Pro tennis player Novak Djokovic and other UNIQLO Global Brand Ambassadors compete
DRY EX’s performance is constantly and rigorously reevaluated, but its true measure is its use by the world’s top
Yoga Instructor Waka Nozawa in a Women ‘s UV Cut long sleeve full zip hoodie, dry sweat pants, and comfort bra.
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UNIQLO / AIRISM
A SECOND SKIN The Untold Story of AIRism
Produced exclusively in Japan by Asahi Kasei, the Cupro fibre used in Women’s AIRism is made from regenerated cot-
ton linters. Due to Cupro’s natural
properties AIRism is able to absorb and release moisture which in effect diffuses heat away from the body.
AIRism for men utilises a micropolyester fibre engineered by Toray
Industries. The dry, smooth, and silk-like fibres wick perspiration off
the skin and move it through open channels within the AIRism yarn. It’s nearly 1/12th the thickness of a strand of human hair.
57
UNIQLO / AIRISM
Can a layer of clothing keep you cool? Can a fiber change the way you live? Because we sweat, we made AIRism. It’s a breathable fabric that keeps you cool and comfortable by wicking away sweat. It’s an unconventional approach that works in tandem with the body—a modern innovation in comfort derived from our Japanese way of life.
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ABSORBENT AND PERMEABLE DRY SOFT TEXTURE ANTI-ODOUR ANTI-BACTERIAL HEAT RELEASE STRETCH COOL TO THE TOUCH 59
UNIQLO / AIRISM COLOUR AIRism can work in tandem with your skin in more ways than one. Offered in an assortment of cosmetic colors, it can add beauty to the everyday.
KIDS & BABY They get hot, too. UNIQLO has adapted AIRism tech-
nology for a child’s body to help keep your little ones comfortable and cool.
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DESIGNED FOR LIFE Designed for different needs and lifestyles. No matter who you are or how you live, there’s an AIRism that can work for you.
RANGE A variety of sleeve lengths and necklines so it can work underneath anything you might want to wear. Adapts not only to the weather but also to your wardrobe.
VISIBILITY The newest iteration of AIRism is seamless. It has been carefully considered to reduce bulk and the appearance of lines so it’s nearly undetectable to the eye.
V E N T I L AT I O N A mesh fabrication enhances AIRism’s breathability, helping to keep you dry, cool and comfortable whether you’re at the gym, on the court or out and about.
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WIRELESS BRA
UNIQLO /
Relax
WIRELESS BRA Wiresless. Limitless
5 REASONS YOU NEED A WIRELESS BRA 62
Made with
2. APPEARANCE Wireless bras are totally seamless under layers. Curve hugging dress? No problem. Sheer blouse? No un-
sightly bumps. Everyday T-shirts? No one needs to know it’s there.
3. MOVEMENT Boasting stretchy adjustable straps that don’t cut into arms and shoulders, there’s no restriction with
a wireless bra. Feel free to bend, stretch and move as your body intended. Love Pilates? You’ve found your new best friend.
WIRELESS BRA
Beauty Soft 1. COMFORT When it comes to bras, there’s nothing more impor-
tant than comfort. With soft molded cups that adjust
to fit your curves, you won’t get that urge to throw off
your wireless bra the minute you get home. In fact, with no wires or hooks, you’ll forget it’s even there.
Fitted, without being constricting, the new relax bra takes the weight off your shoulders with its thick stretchy straps.
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UNIQLO / WIRELESS BRA
WIRELESS BRA
Beauty Light Multi-way
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4 . V E R S AT I L I T Y It’s not just shape and support that you can expect from a wireless bra. Our new relax styles are specially
made from breezy, sweat-wicking AIRism so they’ll keep you cool on sweaty commutes. Plus, with plenty of styles and colours to choose from, they’re easy to mix
and match with our seamless shorts and body shaper
shorts, so if you’ve ever aspired to be that matching underwear girl – now’s your chance.
5 . T R AV E L It’s not just for comfort while you work, or for simplicity at home, they’re incredibly light, stretchy and
adaptable - perfect for the globetrotter who needs a supportive bra that works in every time zone.
WIRELESS BRA
Beauty Light 65
UNIQLO / JEANS
UJ 66
high-rise cigarette, slim boyfriend-
women, the jeans styles include
of styles for men and women. For
The collection includes a variety
JIC is in stores now.
that was designed specifically at the
His first collection of Uniqlo denim
specializes in vintage-style denim.
ano Goldschmied, is from Tokyo and
the renowned denim brand AG Adri-
Matsubara, former design director of
during a recent interview.
Matsubara, director of the center,
very sustainable way,” said Masaaki
bilities of developing our denim in a
we built the center with the capa-
denim manufacturer] Kaihara—and
of which we sourced from [Japanese
fits and finishes for our denim—most
“The center ... allows us to test and try
Uniqlo and J Brand jeans.
facility behind such notable brands as
by Japan’s Fast Retailing Group, is the
rent trends and styles, the JIC, owned
more efficient while adhering to cur-
mitted to making denim production
More or less a denim laboratory com-
tainable chemicals and techniques.
production methods, utilizing sus-
ronmentally friendly processing and
fabric. The JIC also focuses on envi-
research and development of denim
Gardena, a facility that pioneers the
to the Jeans Innovation Center in
minutes south of downtown L.A.
-making process, we ventured 30
To investigate the enigmatic jeans
BY TARA PANIOGUE
B efore anything could get between you and your
Calvins, before you spotted your perfect pair of
jeans at the store and had to strategically wran-
tower, your jeans had to take a journey to become gle your size from a precarious Jenga-like denim
the finished product they are today.
The creative design and production that goes into making
a single pair of jeans involves a number of highly tech-
nical and innovative steps. Within the larger framework
of jeans design/manufacturing, the fit, fabric and finish
are considered some of the most important and nuanced
steps in jeans production.
Inside the Gardena lab
where Uniqlo jeans get ripped, hand-sanded and stone-washed for that lived-in look
67
68 addition to Uniqlo.”
the development of their denim in
is based here, and the JIC will benefit
brand. Also, our sister brand J Brand
that complements our aesthetic as a
effortlessness to the style in L.A., and
denim,” Matsubara said. “There is an
given that the city is a global hub of
“L.A. was a natural choice for us,
about 12 employees.
opened in November 2016 and has
—the Jeans Innovation Center—
home city. The Gardena R&D center
the unique style and attitude of its
each with a personality that reflects
opment centers around the world,
Uniqlo has five research and devel-
jeans in the Innovation Center.
like for creating a pair of prototype
through what a typical cycle looks
Matsubara and his team walked us
To fully explain how the JIC works,
ultra-stretch skinny-fit jeans.
Matsubara), regular straight fit and
vedge slim-fit (a personal favorite of
For men, the styles are stretch sel-
fit and high-waisted, wide-leg jeans.
“There is an effortlessness to the style in L.A.”
UNIQLO / JEANS
FADING The fading and distressing of each pair of jeans is hand-
selected from a wide variety of sample finishes that then get inputted into a laser distressing machine.
Like magic, the computer-controlled machine runs a
laser over the denim to distress and lighten the fab-
ric. Within a few moments blue smoke comes off the denim, revealing an almost-instant transformation.
HANDING FINISHING Jeans are marked with a pen where certain rips and
sanding should take place. Then the jeans get hand-
BY TARA PANIOGUE
sanded, ripped and heated to get the perfect worn look.
69
UNIQLO / JEANS
WA S H I N G The majority of jeans start out a standard dark color
and get lightened through a series of bleach washes.
Another component to washing the denim is stone washing. The JIC uses eco-friendly stones in the washes. This technique gives the new fabric a worn appear-
ance, texture and tonality. Stone washing also helps to increase the denim’s softness and flexibility.
70
I N S P I R AT I O N Finished prototypes are sent to production centers in Asia for large-scale production. Other finished products
hang on racks with other denim brands that go on to
BY TARA PANIOGUE
inspire and guide future designs.
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UNIQLO / JEANS
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72
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WOMEN HIGH-RISE SMART SHAPE JEANS Functional jeans with a smart silhouette. $49.90
73
UNIQLO / PRESENT
VOID OF STYLE, ELEGANCE, SOPHISTICATION
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UNIQLO / UT
UT 76
77
UNIQLO / UT
x In this exclusive interview, NIGO tells us how he plans to transform UNIQLO UT as the brand’s new creative director.
78
x NIGO BY ELAINE YJ LEE
Highsnobiety Q&A: NIGO on His New Position as Creative Director of UNIQLO UT
79
UNIQLO / UT
L
ast October, UNIQLO announced the appointment of NIGO as the creative director of UT
(Uniqlo T-shirt), the mega retailer’s first ever role of the sort for its LifeWear line. The founder
and former creative director of BAPE and owner of Human Made is busy these days, traveling the world to debut his first collection for UT this Spring/Summer 2014. We caught a few moments with NIGO during his
recent stay in New York, and heard from the famed streetwear icon himself on how he plans to transform
How do you feel about being a part of UNIQLO?
I’m really pleased to be working on a project where
it feels like there’s a lot of work for me. The scale of UNIQLO is global and it’s got customers all over the
world. It’s a great project for me to do. And it’s a new kind of discipline to me, to make something that can
have really broad appeal. In the past, I’ve been able to appeal to a very hardcore group and bring them to me,
but now I have to learn to study broad customers and work for them.
80
was interested.
approximately six months ago, and I
UNIQLO approached me this spring,
conversation begin?
You are the first creative director
that UNIQLO has ever appointed
specifically for UT—How did the
the UT brand.
rators] will come later.
with a new shape for the shirts, so the news [on collabo-
SKUs this season. But the main thing is that I am working
There’s a lot of stuff in the pipeline. There are over 1,000
to collaborate?
Do you plan on bringing in any more designers or artists
like Terry Richardson, Sølve Sundsbø and House Industries.
UT has been known for having designs by notable artists
a lot of new options.
rather than printing on the front of the shirt. There are
before [UNIQLO]—for example, printing the whole shirt
resources available at UNIQLO that I wasn’t able to [use]
quality] is just different. I really tried to use all of the
how I envisioned, but the quality was always good. [My
The price point will not change. The fit is changed to
price point stay the same?
Are you using any higher-quality materials? Will the
From that point, [it was just] using the actual graphics and I’m used to working with graphics.
[boxy] when you wore them. I wanted it to be [comfortable] and breathy when you wear them.
seams, and I wanted them to be tubular-knit. The quality was all good, but it looked good flat and
the t-shirt itself. UT has been using the same shape and cut for a long time. All of them had side
Basically, I’ve changed everything. I wanted to create a new standard for the brand, starting with
What is the brand aesthetic and attitude that you want to bring to UT?
cally asked to do the UT brand, and t-shirts is something I felt I could actually bring something to.
not many Japanese brands that are able to. And the scale of it is interesting to me. I was specifi-
I respect UNIQLO’s ability to be out there in the rest of the world, because at the moment, there are
What was your attraction to the UNIQLO brand?
BY ELAINE YJ LEE
You are known for being a really avid toy collector—you are a huge fan of Star Wars
and all the American superheroes. Which character are you most excited about
bringing in the UT collection?
I really like being able to use the Wizard of Oz. I wanted to do that for quite some time.
I bought the movie again recently so it’s a fresh memory.
You made BAPE a lifestyle brand, with a café, toys and even housewares. Are there
any plans to expand UT to other product categories beyond t-shirts?
This is not my brand. It is cool for me to work as part of the team and be the leader,
but the direction is there already and I have to work within that framework. But it’s
an open door—if we see a need, I’m definitely open [to expanding].
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UNIQLO / UNIQLO U
82
BEAUTY IN THE
dreamt of working for Uniqlo.”
This summer, Lemaire was appointed as artistic director of the new Uniqlo Paris R&D Centre, where he leads research and
development for the LifeWear brand, and
has designed a new Uniqlo line, Uniqlo BY NATALIE BARR
U. The line takes clothing basics to a new
level, focusing on quality and luxury to re-
define Uniqlo’s familiar essentials such
as t-shirts and down jackets. The result
is what Lemaire has strived to do with
or the right team, it can be extremely tiring and frustrating. Today, I can
something interesting to do, and I always
don’t have the right environment and the right support from the company,
to more discussion, but I felt it was really
right team, you can really save so much time and energy. Whereas if you
maire explains. “I didn’t want to go back
I very much believe in the collective work and the team dynamic. With the
decided to focus on my own brand,” Le-
lot. I just wanted to make sure I would be able to set the right team, because
a little bit agitating, because I had just
CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE: That’s why I hesitated. I really thought about it a
growing independent brand. “[It was]
own brand. Is your own brand still such a big priority for you?
personally devoting less time to his
NATALIA BARR: You said that you left your role at Hermès to focus on your
take his role at Uniqlo
one step further, even if it meant
says Lemaire.
ever, Lemaire wanted to
passion that you can have in high fashion, but into an industrial product,”
a third collection, how-
“It’s a little bit of a humble approach, putting the same level of heart and
W
hen the time came for
his own brand—everyday clothing for everyday life—for a wider audience.
Christophe Lemaire is a no frills, no fuss designer. After working as the artistic director of Lacoste and Hermès, Lemaire decided to give his full attention to his independent fashion brand, Lemaire, with partner Sarah-Linh Tran. The brand, which focuses on elevated pieces for everyday life, completed two very successful capsule collections with Uniqlo (both of which were called Uniqlo x Lemaire).
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UNIQLO / UNIQLO U
Uniqlo U Logo Design The design is keeping with the LifeWear concept of contributing to fun and comfort through fashions that match every mood. U represents the very essence of Uniqlo. The U sound itself has a powerful phonetic association with the Uniqlo brand, and using it ensures our collection stays rooted in the brand’s DNA. There are twelve U’s in the logo because that number is key. Twelve is a ubiquitous number in everyday life: twelve months, twelve hours, and twelve years in the Chinese zodiac. Each of the twelve constituent statements with starts with “U have” to emphasize that the collection is the fruit of the UNIQLO Paris R&D Center’s teamwork and cohesion.
84
BY NATALIE BARR
LEMAIRE: Being a head designer or art director or just even a designer, you need a certain level of experience and maturity.
It’s true that I’ve made mistakes, but I
know I shouldn’t do them again. [There
to clothes. I’m not a designer who is very interested in baroque or in fantasy or in the fantastic side of fashion. This
have now?
Through designing clothes, I try to bring solutions to people, and I’m interested in the everyday relationship we have
brands prepare you for this role you
to make everyday life a little bit better—to make it more functional, more desirable, to improve quality of life somehow.
BARR: How did your past roles at other
LEMAIRE: If I really think about what drove me from the beginning to become a designer, it is really the idea of trying
and inspiring.
BARR: What is it about Uniqlo that made you dream of working there?
teams on both sides, it works—it’s exciting
[about] yourself and your creative process.
between Uniqlo and Lemaire. With great
projection system and craftsmanship. Every company, of course, teaches you so much humanly and professionally
more on Lemaire, and I spend my time
around a legacy, and how to integrate a strong brand culture into my work. Also, to work with a completely different
new Uniqlo project, so she would focus
actually very frustrating at Lacoste. At Hermès it’s different. I learned, maybe more than anywhere else, how to work
We decided to not work together on this
and the necessary link between marketing and creative teams. Also, very important, the shop experience, which was
there is Sarah-Lin [Tran], my partner.
tive environment. I had to learn how to do politics, how to talk, how to explain, and how to communicate a vision,
of course at Lemaire. Also, at Lemaire,
are] so many things I’ve learned, and I’m still learning, actually. At Lacoste, I learned how to drive in a very conserva-
say I have this great team at Uniqlo and
exists and this is important, but I’m in-
terested in the very real dimensions. I’m interested in the poetry of reality. I try to
bring as much taste, smartness, quality,
functionality, and aesthetic qualities to everyday clothes. I’m interested in the
intimate relationships we can have with
those good clothes that we may have in our closets. I think we all have those
particular pieces of clothes that we really like, because it ages well, because it fits you well, because you feel comfortable,
and you feel confident in those clothes. All those aspects of good design are what I’m interested in. I’m trying just to do good clothes, clothes that you need as much
as you want. For me, Uniqlo is an amazing environment. They have an amazing pro-
85
86 just a different approach. It’s about trying to propose,
design it to be cool, and you’ll want to wear it?” That’s
essential pieces that you will need and how would you
What would you put in your suitcase? What are the twenty
view. You have to leave for two months all of a sudden.
and mood boards. Let’s start from a different point of
first collection, I told them, “Let’s forget about themes
LEMAIRE: When we met with my team to start the very
BARR: What was the inspiration for the Uniqlo U collection?
democratic about it, which I really appreciate.
the best quality at the best price. There is something very
duction system, and they have this capacity of bringing
Uniqlo R&D Center in Paris, Frane.
every season, the perfect wardrobe of
elevated basics.
BARR: How is this collection different from
your past collaborations with Uniqlo?
LEMAIRE: The past collaboration was very
much a collaboration between Lemaire
and Uniqlo. It was very much Sarah-
Lin and I bringing a Lemaire twist to a
Uniqlo environment. This one was dif-
ferent, because we really are extremely
faithful to the DNA. I had to convince
Uniqlo about that because at first, they
wanted us to do a new collaboration.
Then we said, “No, we have to focus on
our brand.” Then they said, “Why don’t
we put your name on the label, and it’s
Christophe Lemaire for Uniqlo?” And
to explain. It depends, but it might be the color, the details, or the choice in the material. I’m proud of what we
time exciting. I don’t know if we achieved that, but this is what we had in mind. How we get to that, it’s difficult
fashionable or becoming boring. You have to find this balance to create something that is obvious, but at the same
so many things to do within that concept of basic with a twist. It’s very subtle. It’s a thin line between becoming too
fashion show, the image, the shooting, is just a step. It’s just a moment, but it’s not the final destination. There are
I’ve been working, I always had in mind the final destination of the clothes, which is the consumer. For me, the
LEMAIRE: This is what I’ve always been interested in, trying to make timeless, functional, real clothes. Everywhere
BARR: How do you approach designing a collection that is meant to carry basics in a fresh and artistic way?
complementary to the main line.
It’s not a short designer collaboration. The idea is to bring another layer of constant product that is Uniqlo, and
basics, and let’s touch real people all around the world, people who don’t really care who Christophe Lemaire is.”
I said, “No. Fashion people will care, but I don’t think Uniqlo consumers will. Let’s try to bring more style into
UNIQLO / UNIQLO U
came up with in terms of product. I don’t
think a fast fashion brand can really say
the same about the quality of the product. We come up with products that are
of good qualities in terms of lasting and the way it ages. If not, it’s a failure for us.
BARR: Do you have a favorite piece or part of the collection?
LEMAIRE: That’s a tricky one. The sweat-
ers are amazing. The knitwear is very good
quality. My personal favorite is a simple crewneck sweatshirt for men that I wear
every day, just because of the quality of
it. It’s a French terry. It’s quite heavy and round. We were actually surprised to be
able to do that for Uniqlo, because even in the good sportswear, streetwear brands,
you can’t find that quality. Simple things
BY NATALIE BARR
like that, that make my life easier.
87
UNIQLO / FUTURE
A NEW INDUSTRY
88
Now is a time for bold action. In today’s world, information can be sent instantly to customers via the internet, and data can be instantly analyzed using artificial intelligence. Current business technology giants, such as Google and Amazon, are expanding and entering entirely new industries.
Fast Retailing is moving decisively to gain a competitive edge over the next generation of entrants and thrive in this rapidly changing era. As the boundaries between industries and companies
dissolve, we are transforming ourselves into a new type of “digital consumer retail company” that puts its customers first by turning information into superior products.
As part of this effort, we have launched the Ariake Project, which is designed to reform our business
A NEW ERA
processes and revolutionize our supply chain so that we can rapidly respond to the needs of our
customers. We will draw on the latest technology to create a new type of industry, one that is capable of delivering the world’s best clothing and the world’s best customer communication.
In the fiscal year ending August 31, 2017, UNIQLO achieved record success. Our operations in Greater China, South Korea and Southeast Asia & Oceania generated impressive profits, proving that economic
development in the Pacific Rim region harbors great opportunity. The rapid expansion of UNIQLO
International has been fueled by customers worldwide recognizing and appreciating UNIQLO LifeWear as the ultimate life-enhancing everyday clothing.
We remain committed to the creation of clothes that are perfectly attuned to people’s daily needs
and offer new value. We are also committed to the creation of a sustainable world. In the manu-
facturing process, we are working proactively on factory conditions, workers’ rights, environmental protection, our All-Product Recycling Initiative, the advancement of women in the workplace, the employment of people with disabilities, and the support of refugees and other displaced persons. We are fully invested in the challenge of making the world a better place through clothes.
January 2018
Tadashi Yanai
Chairman, President and CEO
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UNIQLO / FUTURE
DRIVING DIGITAL TRANSFORMATION A S U P P LY C H A I N W I T H C U S T O M E R S AT T H E C E N T E R Globalization and digitalization are happening at lightning speed. Intricate connections between people, things and bits of information are revolutionizing the concepts of borders, industries and companies. In the clothes-making
business, traditional demarcations between apparel, retail and textile industries are disappearing. To ensure that
Fast Retailing thrives in this era of radical change, I believe it is vitally important to create a new industry that can effectively turn information into commercial products.
Most of the world now has access to the internet and smartphones, and information can be transmitted at ultrafast speeds. This enables us to continuously engage with customers online and reflect their feedback in our supply
chain. We are already embracing these changes and proactively transforming ourselves into a “digital consumer retail company” that can quickly translate customer desires into better products and services.
A R I A K E P R O J E C T K I C K S TA R T S S W E E P I N G C H A N G E To accelerate Fast Retailing’s transformation into a digital consumer retail company, we launched what we call
the Ariake Project. The most important part of this transformation is to completely change the way our employees work. To that end, we constructed UNIQLO CITY TOKYO, a more than 16,500m2 open-plan office on the sixth floor
of our Ariake warehouse. We have created small, flat teams that communicate closely across corporate departments and rapidly execute business analysis, decision-making and the implementation of ideas.
The Ariake Project encompasses numerous concurrent initiatives, including the analysis of digital information
to accurately forecast demand; closer communication with partner factories to achieve a flexible manufacturing structure; the creation of a speedy, highly efficient distribution system; the use of digital marketing to communicate
directly with customers; an increase in the online shopping services we offer; and the establishment of systems that will support all these initiatives. The Ariake Project is already generating huge benefits.
The cooperation of our business partners is essential to the success of the Ariake Project. Our partner textile
factories and distribution companies are working hard to achieve complementary transformations. We will not
be shackled to old ways of thinking, and we will invest the necessary time, effort and resources. We are determined to embrace the technologies of the future and do whatever we can to turn ourselves into a digital consumer retail company.
90
UNIQLO INTERNATIONAL POWERS AHEAD U N I Q L O I N T E R N AT I O N A L R E V E N U E T O S U R PA S S U N I Q L O J A PA N ’ S We expect UNIQLO International revenue to overtake that of UNIQLO Japan for the first time in FY2018. Due to its high margins, UNIQLO International is also approaching UNIQLO Japan in terms of operating profit. I am delighted with this remarkable accomplishment. It has been almost 17 years since we opened the first UNIQLO store outside
Japan in London, and I am so proud of how we have grown the Japan-born UNIQLO label into a thriving global brand that is loved by customers worldwide.
The Greater China, South Korea and Southeast Asia & Oceania operations produced truly spectacular performances
this business year, serving as the key driver of Group growth. I am especially proud of the talented managers
with strong leadership skills that we have nurtured in these three regions. This gives us confidence in future business expansion.
The apparel industry is embracing globalization at such a rapid pace that we are entering an era in which only fully recognized global brands can survive. UNIQLO has achieved such strong growth in Greater China, South Korea and Southeast Asia precisely because it is recognized as a global brand. We have established a strong presence
alongside other brands such as ZARA and H&M by opening flagship and large-format stores on prominent high
streets in New York, Paris, London, Shanghai and other major world cities, and by earning the loyal support of customers worldwide. This highlights our leading position in global markets.
UNIQLO’s LifeWear concept stems from a passion to create ultimate everyday wear: comfortable, high-quality, fashionable clothing at prices that everyone can afford. UNIQLO will continue to grow not as a maker of trendchasing apparel, but as a brand that represents a new category of clothing, one that is part of the fabric of everyday living and that is committed to making people’s lives richer and more comfortable.
A S O L I D P O S I T I O N I N G R E AT E R C H I N A A N D S O U T H E A S T A S I A UNIQLO International’s key strength is its established brand position and firm management foundation in re-
gions with strong potential for economic growth, such as Greater China and Southeast Asia. As their economies develop, Asian markets will undoubtedly witness explosive growth in middle-income populations. This presents
a huge business opportunity for UNIQLO. While Japan has a total population of 120 million, Greater China and
Southeast Asia are estimated to have over one billion white-collar workers alone. My focus is to ensure solid growth in Greater China and Southeast Asia, which have the potential to grow into markets 10-20 times the size
91
UNIQLO / FUTURE of Japan’s. We have announced five-year targets of increasing revenue from the current 346.4 billion yen to 1
trillion yen in Greater China, and from 110 billion yen to 300 billion yen in Southeast Asia & Oceania. If we also
continue to open stores in the United States and Europe, I believe we can expand UNIQLO International sales to over 2 trillion yen within the next few years.
GLOBAL IS LOCAL, LOCAL IS GLOBAL We aim to earn loyal customer support by offering everyday wear that suits local climates and cultures, while at
the same time protecting UNIQLO’s unique identity with regard to overall product ranges and mixes, store layouts, in-store services and store operations. Striking this balance can be harder than you think. We call this seemingly contradictory initiative “Global Is Local, Local Is Global.”
Our aim is to ensure that people who want to buy everyday wear come to our stores first. For example, in Southeast Asia, a large range of warm-weather items that suit the tropical climate is available to customers year-round.
This focused strategy has turned many people into UNIQLO fans. They recognize UNIQLO as a Japan-based brand that caters to all nationalities, cultures, climates and income levels.
E X PA N D O N L I N E SA L E S WO R L DW I D E Expanding online sales and services is a vital element of our global business strategy. Our strategy focuses on cooperating with firms with superior technology in each region to expand operations. Digital communication via
social media is well developed in Greater China and Southeast Asia, which provides us with strong opportunities
for online growth in these regions. Our online business in Mainland China is doing well. Progress there includes our recently launched online-to-offline (O2O) service aimed at further fusing our physical and online stores—it gives customers the option to pick up online purchases in-store.
U N I Q L O U SA M OV I N G F O RWA R D UNIQLO USA is now showing signs of a bright future. The operation successfully halved its operating loss in FY2017,
thanks to a concerted effort by the local CEO and staff to create a strong leadership framework. We will increase brand visibility by opening stores in major cities and competitive shopping malls. In order to secure profitable
operations, I also want to expand revenue from the current 70 billion yen to 100 billion yen over the next few years.
E X PA N D I N G O U R P R E S E N C E I N E U RO P E UNIQLO Europe has strengthened its operational base. We accelerated store openings in France and Russia, two
markets that have shown positive early growth. Our entry into Spain (Barcelona) in fall 2017 also proved a success. We plan to open our first store in Sweden (Stockholm) in fall 2018 and will continue expanding into major cities across Europe.
92
OPTIMIZING EFFICIENCY AT UNIQLO JAPAN PROMOTING LOCAL STORE MANAGEMENT Japan’s shrinking and aging population translates into increasingly tough conditions in the apparel business. Despite that, UNIQLO Japan has seen customer numbers increase thanks to easily recognizable everyday prices, which were first introduced in spring 2016, as well as pacesetting price leadership.
Going forward, I want us to fully embrace “Koten Keiei” (local store management) principles in order to grow
individual store sales while reducing costs and increasing efficiency. Experienced employees with intimate knowl-
edge of local needs are vital to the success of community-centered stores. By delivering tailored product mixes and marketing strategies, we can offer LifeWear that perfectly suits local lifestyles. Koten Keiei is the best way to train all personnel to think like store managers and maximize the capabilities of each of our 10,000 locallystationed full-time employees.
FUSING IN-STORE AND ONLINE SHOPPING As our online operations expand, we will seamlessly link them to our physical store network to offer customers an
even more convenient shopping experience. To maintain our competitive edge, our stores need to offer ever better
services and ever more capable staff. We must make it possible for customers to pick up their online purchases, or check their measurements in-store to facilitate purchasing semi-tailored clothing online.
Making it convenient for customers to pick up purchases will enable them to order special collaboration items (only available in large-format stores and online) and have them delivered to any store in Japan. These initiatives will significantly increase online sales. We are also improving the efficiency of store operations. Our new
inventory management system, which was introduced in fall 2017 and uses radio-frequency identification (RFID), simplifies stocktaking and search tasks.
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UNIQLO / FUTURE
MANAGERIAL THINKING AT EVERY LEVEL E N C O U R AG I N G A L L S TA F F T O T H I N K L I K E M A N AG E R S “Changing clothes. Changing conventional wisdom. Change the world.” Our corporate statement forms the basis for how Fast Retailing tries to be a truly good global citizen. We want employees to channel their individual creativity into promoting innovation and providing customers with great clothing and impeccable service.
It is important to inspire employees worldwide to work passionately under our “Zenin Keiei” and “Global One”
principles. Zenin Keiei means all Fast Retailing staff, from in-store part-timers to top managers, are empowered to adopt a managerial mindset, taking initiative to offer customers the best possible products and services. This improves on traditional retail setups, where managers make decisions and in-store staff follow orders. Additionally,
Global One encourages all Group businesses to share their success stories and global best practices with each other.
AIMING TO BE NUMBER ONE I am passionate about transforming Fast Retailing into a digital consumer retail company and creating an entirely new business model to help establish our position as the world’s number one apparel retailer. In 2000,
Fast Retailing sales were just 20% of GAP’s. By 2015, they were roughly the same. Today, Fast Retailing is the world’s third largest apparel retailer in terms of sales, behind Inditex (the operator of the ZARA brand) and H&M. Like us, both of these companies are apparel retailers that successfully manage all processes from planning and design through production and retail.
However, UNIQLO’s LifeWear concept of ultimate everyday clothes differentiates us from brands such as ZARA and H&M. In contrast to their focus on fast fashion, LifeWear stems from the conviction that clothes are meant to suit the values of the person wearing them—that individuality comes from the wearer, not the clothing. As the
Ariake Project bears fruit, we are transforming our business model to better incorporate customer preferences
and respond to their needs. This will drive the evolution of LifeWear and will put customers at the center of the creation of their clothing.
Fast Retailing exists to enrich society and our customers’ lives. We will uphold that commitment as we strive to make the world a better place.
94
95
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UNIQLO / AFTERWORD
UNIQLO: The Evolution
First publushed in Toronto, Canada in 2018 © 2018 by Naomi Kwok Design by Naomi Kwok Edited by Naomi Kwok
All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form of means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise—without the express written permission of the publisher. Failure to comply with these terms may expose you to legal action and damages for copyright infringement. All articles and images are sourced and belong to original authors as credited.
Special Thanks
To my mother Ling who has taken such a good care of me through ups and downs. Also to Professor
Beatriz Juarez whose professionalism has provided me with constructive feedback and guidance to complete this book. Not to forget my friend Sinyan who has been all ears and at hand when I need
help. My cousin Janice, congratulations on your upcoming wedding! May your marriage blessed with love be an everlasting source of strength for you two. I am thankful for the unceasing support from you. My friend and mentor Anna who genuinely cares about my wellbeing—I could not have asked for more. Words cannot express how grateful I am for these people around me.
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