CSF
ISSUE NO.1
Chefs sans Frontieres
CLIMATE & SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT HRH PRINCE DR RINA TELESPHORE
KOPPERT CRESS
WHERE HORTICULTURE MEETS G ASTRONOMY
Wild Hunting
LITHUANIA
Evaldas Žaliukas
Traditional Maldivian Combinations LUCA MASSIMILIANO RADICE
Recipes:
Olive Oil Poached Salmon | Pavlova fraises des bois | Traditional Maldivian COMBINATIONS OF Food Recipes |
USD 5.00
WELCOME CSF has been set up to assist, support and preserve small artisan food producers that lose their livelihoods through natural disasters. The aim is to retain the production of local ingredients, cultural gastronomy, traditional skills, culinary heritage and a point of difference around the world. The small artisan producers are the beating hearts of not only a region but that of a nation, they add a point of difference to local markets, restaurants and influence tourism and visitors alike to a country. As we continue to see the negative effects of global warming and climate change we are seeing an increase in fires, flooding and drought. Many small artisan food producers survive on their efforts and work to produce ingredients and put food on their family tables. Sadly many have insufficient income to obtain insurance, or qualify for government aid or assistance, so they just fade away taking lifelong skills and traditions with them. With this in mind each disaster brings a downturn to many people’s lives and livelihoods with the eventual loss of the shepherd and their flocks who supplies the milk to the local cheese producer, who in turn sells goats and sheep cheeses at market. The local honey producers, pistachio farmers, fishermen, the list goes on. CSF has harnessed top chefs from around the world who are dedicated and passionate about food, the sources, the quality, but it doesn’t stop there — we are in the unique position to recognise how much the climate is already affecting small businesses, the already devastating effects that it has on human life, the poorest communities in the world are already
It is vital that people are still able to work, maintain stability and continue to provide food and ingredients for not only the gustatory pleasures but for basic survival. There are already a vast number of chefs who are part of this unique charity, willing and able to help. Every descent chef should be passionate about the quality of food we use, eat, and serve. They do not seek validation; they feel duty bound to support those who can’t advocate for themselves in unprecedented times. ( I have ) or the (Founder and President Alan Coxon) has aimed to establish a leading representative “CSF Ambassador” in every part of the world. Each “Ambassador” will be responsible for their region or country, as well as develop memberships to build a quality team that represents the country . The list of chefs supporting CSF grows by the day with leading names attached. Chefs such as the “Private chef” to the “Pope at Vatican City” , the former chef to “Prince Charles and Duchess of Cornwall”, the “Private chef to the Prince of Denmark and the Danish Royal Family”, the “Private chef to the Emir of Qatar”, many leading 1 and 2 Michelin Star Chefs from restaurants across Europe, Presidents and representatives from Leading culinary associations and academies , MOF`s , and a few non chefs such as “HRH Prince Dr Rina Telesphore”, the Directors of a hotel groups in the Maldives and Egypt ( just brief examples).
CSF has the ambition to become one of the largest chef and foodie networks in the world, where likeminded chefs work together to help support all and any natural disaster affecting the small artisan producers that would in effect be wiped out. To assist and retain cultural gastronomy and culinary heritage for years to come. The world appears to be on a mission to self-destruct, with food shortages and quality deterioration already taking shape, CSF feel that the small artisan producers could and will play a significant role in feeding many and adding a point of difference in the years to come. This charity hopes to retain existing artisans as well encourage more to look at this option and lifestyle and where CSF has the ability to support when disaster strikes. Thus far, our reach spans globally, and whilst we still have a mountain to climb we have established representation in countries such as United Kingdom, Vietnam ,Croatia, Peru, Denmark, Dubai , Malta, Norway, Turkey, Tunisia, Lithuania, Lebanon, Qatar, Nepal, Palestine , Philippines , Morocco, Egypt , Bangladesh, Australia ,Belgium , Serbia, Luxembourg, Switzerland, Maldives, France, Italy, Spain, Sri Lanka, Portugal, Madagascar, India,, Bulgaria, Saudi Arabia , Kuwait, Sweden, Mexico, Malaysia, Mauritius, Vatican City, Greece, and Cyprus. I hope that CSF is of interest to you and thank you for all and every bit of support .
Culinary regards
Alan Coxon www.alancoxon.com www.csfint.com
ISSUE 01
What's Inside Features Climate and sustainable development report Long Pointy Tweezers Wild Hunting
Recipes Extra Virgin Olive Oil Poached Salmon Roast Marinated Lamb with Liquorice Traditional Maldivian recipes Eton Mess vs Pavlova Grilled Octopus, sweetcorn puree,Confit Chorizo & its oil, gochujang aioli, Oscietra Caviar Lemon Verbena oil
Interview Chef Gianfranco Chiarini
Contact info@alancoxon.com
REPORT
HRH Prince Dr Rina Telesphore
The seventh report of the G.I.E.C. with this forecast for the next years is once again very alarmist in its’ press release intended for leaders. Climate forecasting is not an exact science and depends on many factors which involve different disciplines (economics, social sciences, climatology, physics, chemistry, biology etc..) Climate change is due to endogenous causes (human activity, volcanic activity, instability of the earth’s core), but also exogenous causes, (ionization of the atmosphere, solar activity, lunar cycles, interaction in between planets), and there is a lot of climate change over the last millennia even with reduced human activity. We foresee the disappearance of the Philippines by 2050, while the atoles of Tuvalu, in the Pacific, have gained around 3% in area in the last 40 years. In 2010, the G.I.E.C. officially reneged on his 4th report of 2007 which had won him the Nobel peace prize; concerning the announced melting of the Himalaya glaciers by 2035, deeming it unlikely. Since 1998, the rise in global temperatures has almost come to an end. This year we have been able to notice record temperatures in Europe and the USA, in return we have had extreme temperatures in Antarctica.
CLIMATE AND SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT REPORT by CSF Ambassador to Madagascar HRH Prince Dr Rina Telesphore Serious publications by Spectroscopists specializing in infrared radiations show that infrared emissivity and absorption are saturated with 200 or 300 PPM of CO2 in the atmosphere and that the doubling of CO2 would in no way modify this saturation. The G.I.E.C. group of intergovernmental experts for the climate is not a scientific research group, it only makes an inventory of scientific articles published in specialized journals (the selection of articles does not always reflect the objectivity which should prevail with contradictory opinions).
The cure must not be worse than the disease. . . We are only passing through this earth that God has lent us.
The public tends to confuse climate change with pollution. Pollution side, the CO2 records do not stop falling with more than 410PPM in 2020 against 370PPM in 2000, knowing that 100 companies responsible for more than 70% of carbon emission. We talk a lot about CO2 and little about methane. This is a greenhouse gas, more powerful than CO2, inducing a change in electromagnetic fields and which mainly comes from open air discharges. In 2018 the world bank announced in its report, a 70% increase in waste over the next 30 years to reach 3.4 billion tons of waste per year in 2050. This increase will largely occur in developing countries where waste is mostly stored in open air. This is one of the many challenges that we must face for a sustainable development and we must think carefully about our ecological transition, each source of energy to be well evaluated according to: Its carbon footprint and cost price for production. Some production of hydrogen costing more than electricity produced by other sources of energy, blue hydrogen from methane more polluting than CO2, storage problems. Its impact on the environment and populations
Visual and auditory disturbances having repercussions on people’s health. Per windmill base we use 1,500 tons of concrete that will never be removed and 300 000 liters of sand extracted from quarries and rivers that will never be replaced, causing floods and preventing the natural backfilling of beaches. The sand is carried by rivers and takes between 100 and 1000 years before reaching the oceans and seas. Its recycling at the end of life. 700 000 tons of electric batteries to be recycled by 2035. Wind turbine blades stored in open air cemeteries or exploding and throwing debris several hundred meters away. As for sustainable development, it cannot be done without the conditions being met on this earth, namely: Roof for everyone, worthy of the name, with the required sanitary conditions and drinking water, not a shelter made of metal sheets. At least two meals a day, containing enough protein, vitamins and other elements necessary for the proper functioning of the body, not just a bowl of rice. Quality care, not just dispensary 10KM away. An education adapted to the future needs of our world, without forgetting as a teaching subject the economic sciences and also civic education and the relations which should govern human beings between them. Not simply an education allowing to train future consumers in debenture up to the neck. Infrastructures allowing unhindered movement of populations in order to prevent children from having to walk for more than an hour to get to school. A job where people are not treated like slaves, but where they will be recognised for their contribution to economic life. An equality between men and women, between races, between religions, in order to break the divisions which were imposed on us. We are all connected to each other and we are one, HUMANITY. All of this can only be done if each of us becomes aware of his place and his role on earth. Only the awakening of consciousness will allow us to avoid the extinction of our civilization. We are only passing through this earth that God has lent us.
THE BALTES FAMILY ARTISANAL CHEESES LUXEMBOURG
from
Based in Stegen, the Baltes family started words by Christophe Krusinski producing goat cheese in 2007. Raising cattle for their meat and producing the fodder needed to feed them, this activity has been gaining more and more for fifteen years. increasingly important in their operation. Having obtained the German label "Demonstrationbetrieb Biologischer Landbau" - or "Farm Model of Organic First of all, there is the “Bio-Géesse Fréschkéis” Agriculture" - they now offer a rich range of range. Fresh goat cheeses, presented in small 14 different cheeses, whether fresh, soft or pots, which weigh about 160 gr. We start quite pressed. simply with the “Fréschkéis Natur”: immaculate white, its texture is delicate and very tender, it If, to comply with the regulations in force in develops tangy lactic notes, slightly bouquety, full the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, the milk is of freshness. well pasteurized, raising their own goats and harvesting their milk every day to transform it Then there is the "Fréschkéis mat Bärlauch": it into fresh cheeses before refining some of takes up the characteristics of the plain one, but them directly in their cellar, it is It is therefore brewed with bear's garlic, this wild aromatic plant a farm production! Finally for the curdling, which abounds in the surrounding forests and they have chosen to use only vegetable which then adds a slight garlic flavor, a nice rennet. balance; the “Fréschkéis mat Schnittlauch”:
"Farm Model of Organic Agriculture"
spiced up with chopped chives this time, it then gains its herbaceous notes which beautifully accompany its freshness; the “Fréschkéis Pikant”: stirred with paprika, onion, pepper, and chilli, he then adds the strongly spicy aromas of the latter; finally, conversely, the “Fréschkéis mat Honig”: brewed with honey, it will lose its acidity to gain in roundness and sweetness. Note that the “Fréschkéis Natur” also exists in the form of a log, vacuum-packed, about thirty centimeters long with a diameter of 6 to 7 cm, weighing between 500 and 650 g. If it keeps the same notes of freshness, its slightly firmer paste allows it to have more hold. Finally, the latter also exists refined, called “Fréschkéis Natur Gereifft”. Matured in the cellar, it will gain a fine off-white rind, its body will soften to develop bouquety lactic aromas, with more roundness. With about 28 cm long and 4 to 5 m in diameter, it weighs 450 to 550 g and is wrapped in parchment paper. Then come the “Bio-Géesse Weischkéis”, soft cheeses, presented in the form of discs 16 to 18 cm in diameter, for at least 4 cm in height. Their size varies according to milk production, they can be much thicker, so their weight varies from 800 g to 1.2 kg. Here too, a whole range is available. The “Weichkéis mat Kräuter de Provence”, nicknamed “Chèvre Type Fétà”: it is fresh, covered with Provencal herbs, then marinated in olive oil before being vacuum-packed. Rindless, its texture is compact and develops lively herbaceous flavors
“Fréschkéis Natur”: immaculate white, its texture is delicate and very tender, it develops tangy lactic notes, slightly bouquety, full of freshness. The "Weichkéis Camembert-Art", also called "Chèvre Type Camembert": soft cheese with a bloomy rind, it has a fluffy white rind spotted with ecru in places, a creamy, slightly runny paste and round notes of yeast , bouquet on the finish; the "Weichkéis Camembert-Art mat Pfeffer" uses the latter but its rind is covered with pepper during the course of ripening, it will thus add all the liveliness of the pepper to its aromas. Finally the “Weichkéis Rotgeschmiert”, or “Chèvre Type Munster”: it is a soft cheese with a washed rind. Throughout the maturing time, its rind is regularly brushed with brine. Its rind is orange, its denser texture is also firmer, but becomes melting when its aging is prolonged and its flavors will be more lively and more powerful. Finally, we end with the “Bio-Géesse Schnittkéis”, uncooked pressed cheeses. Wheels 26 to 27 cm in diameter and 6 to 7 cm high, weighing 3.5 to 4.5 kg. Their intense pinkorange rind hides a dry and crumbly paste that gives off powerful notes of terroir or even goat cheese. The “Schnittkéis Natur” is as presented, knowing that it is also flavored with dried tomatoes and arugula. “Small” novelty since this year, a “Schofskéis” has joined the ranks. A great first for the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg since it is a sheep's milk cheese! Uncooked pressed cheese, 11 to 12 cm in diameter and 4 to 5 cm high, it weighs around 500 g. If its rind is always pink-orange, its paste is tender, it develops frank notes, not too powerful, of a good balance, with slight notes of sheep cheese on the finish.
EXCLUSIVE
You’ve dressed your plate, but want to add a little freshness, a little burst of flavour, maybe place something on the empty part of the plate to “bring it” together. So, what could be better than a pinch of an attractive cress? WRITTEN BY FRANCK PONTAIS
Well absolutely nothing at all.
of Amsterdam, in an area known as
Clever positioning of Microgreens
Monster. As you travel through the
can elevate dishes to new heights.
district towards the home of
But the cresses, specialities, and
Koppert cress, it is very easy to get
food-safe living vegetables that
distracted by the huge, state of the
Koppert cress are internationally
art glasshouses that stretch on for
renowned for have many more
hectare after hectare.
uses than simply being placed on a finished plate of food. They are also
Koppert cress is the passion of Rob
versatile ingredients. They are
Baan. An enigmatic boss and
more than just a garnish.
dynamic business leader, Rob’s presence and emotional
The European hub of Koppert cress
connection to Koppert Cress is felt
is situated about 60 minutes south
in every centimetre of the facility
Long Pointy Tweezers at the Ready! and echoed in every team member working here. Taking over the company in July 2002, Rob’s vision was to do things differently. Studying ingredients, foods habits and cultures on his many travels around the globe, Rob, also a passionate cook, was able to combine his dedication to seeds technology with culinary know how and solid business knowledge. Fast forward to 2022, and the 280 Koppert Cress staff now supply Dutch traders and wholesalers who distribute the cresses throughout Europe and the Middle east. The traders are regular visitors to the facility, invited to meet with the team and visit the glasshouses. The familiar logo and the words “ architecture Aromatique” that appear in italic underneath the business name, have been cleverly thought out and designed. Architecture represents the structure of the plant, aromatique, relating to the unique and
specific effect of your senses, whether that the flavour, scent, feel or presentation. Being environmentally conscious, sustainability is critical to Koppert Cress. Much time is given to understanding a new plant before bringing it to the facility. Koppert Cress works with chefs who ‘make a difference’. Chefs who turn their food into an adventure of sense and taste. Chef who strives to prepare tasty, attractive, balanced, and nutritious dishes. Those who share their inspiration and cook with consideration. The team at Koppert cress are inspired by chefs, and in return, they want to inspire you!
ONLINE STORE
CSF CHEF SHOP opening JULY 23' where these leather knife rolls as well as many other items will be available!
SHOP JULY 23'
WWW.CSFINT.COM
CHEF GIANFRANCO CHIARINI CHEF/PATRON @ DIECI BOUTIQUE RESTAURANT WHAT THE CHALLENGES ARE OF RUNNING A RESTAURANT IN BULGARIA, AND YOUR AIMS TO BECOME THE FIRST MICHELIN STAR RESTAURANT IN THE COUNTRY? The challenges are many. It starts from quality workers and commitment when it comes to the construction process. As a matter of fact I have done over 80% of the overall construction of the house, in regards to kitchen, plumbing, wooden floor laying, painting, minor electrical repairs and fixtures. Thankfully and due to our relation with important members of society (post opening of the restaurant) we have managed to have roofs, septic tanks and other major works done. In regards to staff; I was well aware (pre opening) of the challenges of good service, commitment, hard work, creativity and consistency of the local chefs and service staff. Therefore I designed my restaurant, kitchen, menus and mise en place systems in a way that I can run the restaurant myself, do all the prepping, cooking, serving and even dish washing myself without compromising haute cuisine delivery and being able to have enough time to
“we deliver a Michelin style 10 course menu and so far we have served since our opening over 1500 guests;”
plate and garnish beautifully. Sounds impossible, but also our restaurant serves ten exclusive guests per night and that is a kind of operation based definitely on quality, rather than quantity. Of course it's an operation not to be underestimated either, since we deliver a Michelin style 10 course menu and so far we have served since our opening over 1500 guests; that meaning that I have delivered over 15.000 dishes by myself. I know it sounds cumbersome, but I rather go through that effort with enjoyment and commitment to perfection, than have to hassle and be angry all day at non responsive, non creative and non motivated staff. But I have to say and as you may be able to read in all our Google, Tripadvisor and Facebook reviews about our restaurant, that the support, admiration and undivided attention of the Bulgarians to our project has been overwhelming to say the least. This has kept us motivated, creative and focused on the target to be the first Michelin starred restaurant in the country, once the guide arrives and reviews in Bulgaria. A little bit about the small artisan producers of Bulgaria. Bulgaria is a blessing when it comes to small producer and artisans as at least over 60% of the regular population has green gardens and their own tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, pumpkin, etc. Bulgarians go massively to the forests in the Autumn and Spring and start collecting mushrooms and over 80% of Bulgarians jar their own conserves and create byproducts from the raw materials. Therefore small producers are the majority in this small and blessed country when it comes to agriculture and product variety in every season. Quality of products. Bulgaria has been called and without a doubt “the last Organic frontier of Europe” a country that has a very small population 7 Mil. and very little heavy industry activity with very little eco system problems. May rivers and lands are still untapped and laws and regulations have made sure that it stays like that.
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Therefore products are very pure and of the highest quality. Tomatoes, apples, pears and all fruits are widely appreciated with defects and imperfections as the country understands that all these, parent ugly characteristics are attributes that belong to the purest products. The flavors and colors of the vegetables in Bulgaria are normal and not looking fake like n other Western countries, where the population demands good looking products that are just not truly natural.
interpretation. Bulgaria is a country with vast resources of water, forests, mountains diverse bodies of water like rivers, lakes and shares the Black sea. Like any other countries, it has its handicaps and problems, but it is overall a country of peaceful people, low crime and a very much mediterranean flair.
Additionally Bulgaria supplies several countries with their products being shipped to France like Foie Gras and Magret Duck, Truffles of all kinds and for every seasons are being shipped to Italy and France and the list is endless of what Bulgaria supplies to the rest of the world. In a nutshell and at least for seasonal chefs like myself, Bulgaria is a feast every seasons and the variety is huge. The region or countries point of difference. Although Bulgaria shares many commonalities in the areas of music, food, architecture, language and other cultural points with neighboring Slavic countries; still Bulgaria has its own heritage, identity and cultural backgrounds. From the Thracians, to the Ottoman Empire and to the Russian times, Bulgaria has taken bits and pieces of these influences and made them their own and with their own
Contact Us 17 Dimitar Vasilev - 7972 - Devino village, Targovishte Region, Bulgaria. Our precise GPS location: Coordinates: 43°08'04.7"N 26°07'22.0"E Important: Do not use "Waze" as GPS (you will end up in challenging roads) ONLY use "Google Maps" Tue - Fri: 18:30 - 24:00 Saturday: 18:30 - 24:00 Sunday & Monday: Closed Winter Season: Opened (depending on weather) Spring - Summer - Fall: Opened
WILD Hunting
CHEF EVALDAS ŽALIUKAS With Culinary Regards .... CSF Ambasador for Lithuania
Spring is a great time to start collecting wild edible plants. The "wild hunting" season, depending on the weather, begins in March and ends in October. Traditionally, Lithuanians were an agrarian country and rural people diversified their diet with wild berries, mushrooms, medicinal herbs and their roots. Herbs were used not only for food, but also for making dyes, dyeing fabrics, cosmetic decoctions for hair, and so on. My two great-grandparents were "herbalists" or, as they used to call "witches “, they had nothing to do with spells, but they knew the herbs and their healing properties well. They prepared teas, decoctions, ointments to treat joints or bruises Not only did their family use this knowledge, but neighbors also asked for help. Unfortunately, knowledge is lost as generations change, and we have not been able to save everything. I am grateful to my grandmothers, who went to the meadows, forests, gardens with me from childhood to show and explain about wild plants and herbs. We collected and dried them together. Lithuanians have maintained the tradition of mushroom picking until now. I remember when I was a little kid, I went to the woods with my grandmother and my mother. Many families still collect wild chanterelle (Cantharellus cibarius ) , boletus and other mushrooms from early summer to fall. Fresh mushrooms are prepared for lunch, as well as canned, dried and fermented. My food philosophy includes the use of wild plants in cooking, combining traditional Lithuanian cuisine, food prepared by grandmothers and mothers, and applying the acquired experience and knowledge, combining everything into a whole. I am looking for inspiration in the wild forest, from which I bring not only plants, but also bark, branches, which I use to serve the dish. Also, the idea of a dish is born while walking, the success of what I find depends on what I cook, it remains an effect of surprise even for myself. As the climate changes, so does the nature of the plants, as well as the seasonality of the plants, their distribution areas and habitats, so it is very important to choose responsibly and take from nature without harming it. As an example, we currently have a Wild garlic (Allium ursinum ) season. It has been banned from being harvested in the wild for many years and is
difficult to grow in the garden because the plant needs special conditions and grows in wet, swampy places. The ban was lifted three years ago and, unfortunately, people have started collecting this plant irresponsibly, so it is back on the list of extinct and endangered species of Lithuania. Two years ago, a team of chefs gathered wild garlic in the wild, but some of it was planted elsewhere, and it is gratifying that it was successful, that it was bred and widespread. We keep such places a secret so that the plants can grow and reproduce unhindered. Sigitas Dominykas Pūkys, one of the chefs involved in the project. Together with his boss and colleague Vytautas Burba, he works on an organic farm, where he produces organic products, lemonades, salad dressings and many other products grown on the farm, as well as plants harvested in nature. They both joined the CSF organization and share their experiences with others. It is gratifying that in recent years there has been an increase in the number of chefs, kitchen enthusiasts, who are turning to nature. We have naturalists who know nature well and organize excursions to learn about wild plants. In Lithuania, we have an excellent wildlife expert, Ieva Šidlaitė, who has published two books about tanning, fermentation and the collection and use of wild plants. She has her own website, she shares her knowledge with both chefs and people interested in the kitchen. It is gratifying that such examples are only increasing. The owners and chefs of the restaurant “Velvetti”, located in the resort town of Druskininkai a few years ago, have added nettle (Urtica ) ice cream to their menu, which has aroused great interest, and now the ice cream of Tilia tree blossoms (Tilia cordata) is on the menu. It is gratifying that Snieguolė and Remigijus are also members of the CSF. It is very important to know and remember that not all wild plants, berries and mushrooms are edible. Therefore, when choosing in nature, you need to know and know what you are looking for. Sometimes very similar herbs are both edible and poisonous. As an example, wild garlic (Allium ursinum) and lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis) are identical, only the leaves are poisonous, of course in cases where people are confused and severely poisoned. A special place for mushrooms, which are collected quite widely and are a popular part of the kitchen. More than 1000 species of mushrooms are known in Lithuania, it is believed that not all of us have found them yet and there could be up to 2,000 of them. Of these, 382 species are edible, 120-140 species are nutritious and useful. It should be remembered that mushrooms are divided into four groups: edible, inedible but non-toxic mushrooms, poisonous mushrooms, deadly poisonous mushrooms. There are also "rumors" that mushrooms of the genus Tuber (Tuber puberulum, Tuber borchii, Tuber exiguum, Tuber rufum ) are found in one or another place in Lithuania. Such places are usually kept secret. We have a lot of traditions in Lithuania, where wild plants are used. For
instance, oak leaves are used for fermentation of cucumbers, traditional Lithuanian homemade bread, maple leaves (Acer ) or sweet flag (Acorus calamus ) are used for baking, and we have more such examples. When we collect wild goods, we follow the "golden rule", we do not collect or eat what we do not know or are not sure about. There’s also no need to trust the spreading mobile apss that help identify edible mushrooms, as none offer a 100 percent guarantee. One Lithuanian naturalist, states: “No mobile app can identify a fungus or plant solely by its appearance. The press describes a case where I tried this myself when I brought "Death cap" (Amanita phalloides ) to one interview. Gadgets weren't recognized by them. Although each of us should recognize with our eyes closed, the "Death cap" Amanita, wich is deadly poisonous mushrooms. In conclusion, I would like to remind you that we need to act responsibly in nature, without harming it, respecting what our ancestors left us to preserve and leave for future generations as much as possible.
Extra Virgin Olive Oil Poached Salmon Served with crisp apple, parsley oil and saffron mayonnaise Serves 4
INGREDIENTS 800g Very Fresh ‘Sushi’ quality salmon skinned and pin boned, 225 ml extra virgin olive oil Zest of 1/2 lemon 2 star anise 1 sprig of thyme 1 small clove of garlic crushed 1 Bay leaf 1tsp sea salt 1tsp Brown sugar PREP TIME
METHOD
30 Mins
Season the salmon lightly with sea salt and brown sugar and leave covered for 15 mins. COOK TIME After 15 mins brush off any seasoning residue. 35 Mins Place extra virgin olive oil into a cooking bag (this can be a microwave bag, sous vide or roasting bag) and add all the ingredients to the bag then seal the bag well. Half fill a deep saucepan with warm water and heat to 43dgr C (110 dgr F) then place the bag of salmon and oil into the water.
Maintain the temperature for approx. 30 mins (or until the internal temp of the fish reaches 43 dgr C) When ready carefully and gently remove the fish from the oil drain lightly. Plate and serve the fish with slices of fresh crisp eating apple, samphire (Salicornia) and baked brick pastry for texture ( filo pastry also works well). Save the oil used to cook the fish to use in the parsley oil dressing.
For the homemade Saffron Mayonnaise
INGREDIENTS 3 fresh free-range egg yolks ½ lemon, juice only ¼ tsp Sea salt and ¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper 150ml/5fl oz Extra virgin olive oil ¼ tsp saffron powder 10 ml White wine vinegar 30 ml whipping cream
METHOD Blend all ingredients, (except the extra virgin olive oil and whipping cream ), in a food processor.
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With the blender running, gently pour the oil in a steady stream, until all the ingredients are well amalgamated and forms a thick sauce. The mixture, once blended, should be vibrant and yellow in colour. Lightly whip the cream and fold into the mayonnaise.
For the parsley oil:
Place the warm olive oil poached salmon onto a plate, scatter with fresh samphire, and slices of crisp apple, then dot the plate with saffron mayonnaise and green parsley oil. Add a few broken pieces of fresh baked pastry and serve immediately.
Note:
Serves approx. 12
Additions such as Asparagus when in season in Spring /early summer or Apple as the above recipe for late summer early autumn work well. If budget or clients allow, then a touch of caviar also works a treat !
INGREDIENTS 100g Fresh Parsley 150ml Extra Virgin olive oil (used to cook the fish) PREP TIME
METHOD
To plate:
30 Mins
Edible flowers can also add an attractive finish to this colourful dish. Our Ambassador for UK Franck Pontais from Koppert cress will be able to assist with lots of herbs and flowers to make different versions of this recipe.
Blanch the parsley in boiling water for 1 minute and refresh immediately in ice water. Drain and pat dry. COOK TIME Place into a food processor and add the olive oil. 35 Mins Blitz until fine. Pass through a fine sieve, strain through muslin cloth or coffee filter.
RECIPE BY
Alan Coxon www.alancoxon.com
Roast Marinated Lamb with Liquorice SERVES 4 PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes, plus 1 hour soaking and overnight marinating COOKING TIME 20 minutes
In France, as in Spain, we use liquorice root quite a lot. In fact, I remember as a young boy buying liquorice root and chewing it on my way to school, then keeping it in my bay during lessons and getting it out again to chew on my way back home - great memories! In this recipe, I use it to skewer the lamb rump to infuse the meat while cooking, without the flavour becoming overpowering. The lamb is also really good served with very thin strips or 'tagliatelle' of courgette sautéed in olive oil with a little garlic and chilli and finished with some chopped flat-leaf parsley.
By: Daniel Galmiche
INGREDIENTS 1 small stick of liquorice root, about 10cm/4in long × 1cm/½/in thick 4 small lamb rumps, about 150g/5½/oz each 125ml/4fl oz/½ cup olive oil 20g/%oz unsalted butter 200ml/7fl oz/scant 1 cup Lamb Stock or Chicken Stock sea salt and freshly ground black pepper steamed Swiss chard, to serve
METHOD 1 Put the liquorice in a small bowl of warm water and leave for about 1 hour until it is soft enough to bend easily. Working from the centre of the root towards the end, peel away the outer layer, reserving the peelings. Cut the root lengthways into quarters, leaving the long pieces to dry on a plate. 2 Put the lamb in a shallow bowl and pour over the oil, then add a generous pinch of pepper and the liquorice peelings. Stir to coat, then cover each rump tightly with cling film, pressing the cling film directly onto the lamb so that there is no air inside. Leave to marinate in the fridge overnight to help to tenderize the meat. 3 The next dav, preheat the oven to 140°F/275°F/gas 1. Remove the lamb from the marinade and, using a skewer, make incisions through the centre of each piece of meat. Insert a liquorice root piece into each one, pressing them into the lamb. 4 Heat an ovenproof frying pan over a medium-high heat. Add the lamb and cook for about 3-4 minutes on all sides, adding the butter when cooking the final side. Transfer the lamb, still in the pan, to the oven and cook for 5-8 minutes, then turn the oven up to 180°C/350°F/gas 4 and cook for a further 4 minutes until cooked but still slightly pink in the centre. Transfer the lamb to a warm plate, cover with foil and
leave to rest while you make the gravy. 5 Return the pan that you cooked the lamb in to a high heat and when the juices are bubbling, add the stock and deglaze the pan by stirring to remove any caramelized bits stuck to the bottom. Cook for 5 minutes until reduced by half, then add any resting juices from the lamb and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with steamed Swiss chard
TRADITIONAL MALDIVIAN RECIPES dishes by Luca Massimiliano Radice
Garudhiya (Tuna Soup) Ingredients: •500g Tuna cleaned & deboned cut dice •1 Medium size onion cut wedges •4-5 Garlic clove Crushed •2 Sprig curry leaves •2-3 whole dried chili cut slice Method •Salt to taste ·Boil Water in a pot, Add two to 3 Table spoon of salt to taste, once the water starts boiling and Rolling add the Tuna pieces into it. ·Add onion, garlic, few Curry Leaves and Dry Chilies to the pot and let it boil for 10 Minutes at a medium heat. ·Then remove the greyish color scum which rises above the water with a spoon and discard it. ·Check if the tuna Pieces are cooked nicely. ·Serve Tuna Soup with Boiled White Rice , fresh Green Chilly, Lime and Onion slices as a side Dish or deep fried Dry Chilies
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Mas Huni (Tuna Sambal) Ingredients •125g Canned tuna (Boiled Tuna) •125g Grated coconut •1 Bunch kullafila leaves (local green leaves) alternatives: arugula/rocket leaves •1 Finely chopped onion •2 Sliced green chili •2 Lime juice • Finely chopped curry leaf (few Leaves only) •Salt to taste Method •Mix the chopped onion with the sliced chili, lime juice & salt •Drain the tuna from can & mix it in with onion & chili mixture •add shredded coconut, curry leaves and kullafila leaves and mix well Serve with plain chapatti
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Maldivian Style Pumpkin Curry (Barabo Riha Recipe)
Ingredients •500g pumpkin • (peeled and diced into 1 inch pieces) •1 cup onion (finely chopped) •½ cup curry leaves •1 tsp cumin seeds •5 x 1 inch Rampa leaves •1 tsp ginger (crushed/grated) •2 cloves garlic (crushed/grated) •1 tsp chili (finely chopped)
•1 cups smoked tuna (Sliced) OR 1 can tuna •2 X ½ inch cinnamon •5 cardamoms •½ cup curry powder • ½ cups water •1 cup coconut milk •1 cup coconut cream •1 tsp sugar •Salt to taste
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•Method Sauté the onions with the curry leaves, rampaleaves, cinnamon and cardamom over medium heat until onions are light brown •Add the chili, ginger, garlic, cumin seeds and stir for a minute or so •Add the curry powder, roast for a minute over low heat •Gradually add water until the mixture in the pot is a smooth paste •Add the pumpkin, coat it well with the spice mixture •Add the rest of the water, tuna, sugar and coconut milk •Cook covered over medium heat (while stirring regularly to make sure the coconut milk does not clot) until the pumpkin is tender •Lower the heat and gently stir in the coconut cream •Simmer for a minute and take off the stove •Serve with rice or roshi (Chapati)
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Maldivian Roshi recipe (Chapati) Ingredients •3 cups all-purpose flour • ½ cup vegetable oil • 1 tsp salt • 2 cups hot (just boiled) water
Method •Mix all the ingredients then add warm water gradually, kneading until you have a dry, smooth dough. (OR put all ingredients in a food processor and knead with the dough hook for about 2 minutes. Take out the dough and knead it a little by hand, mixing in little pieces of dough that did not combine.) •Break the finished dough into golf ball sized pieces. •Smooth the balls using your hands. •Dust each ball with flour and using a rolling pin spread evenly into circles that are about 6 -7 inches in diameter. •Heat a shallow frying pan, place roshi on the pan and flip using a flat ladle until both sides are cooked to your liking.
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ETON MESS
vs PAVLOVA
words: Alan Coxon
Its summer so it must be strawberry season and of course Wimbledon, so it’s not surprising such an event has a major influence on Strawberry consumption where spectators munch through 28,000 kg of strawberries equating to 112,000 punnets sold during this tennis event alone, all splashed with 7,000 litres of cream! As this is a food feature instead of pairing off Novak Djokovic V Rafael Nadal, today we pitch “Eaton Mess” V “Pavlova” !
Like in tennis the two counterparts are soo close, the match could go either way !. Of course for tennis lovers I am sure you have your favourite player for your very own reasons , likewise when it comes to comparing the two desserts, the differences, al be them so small, could in effect be a massive game changer.
The big question is “ crispy meringue or chewy meringue”?
For the chewy meringue lovers then you have to back “Pavlova”, an Australian dish that is credited to chef Herbert Sachse at Perths Esplanade hotel in 1935. The dish was allegedly named by the restaurant manager Harry Nairn who remarked that it was as light as Anna Pavlova ( a famous ballerina that toured Australia in 1926) . Like many matches, Perths Esplanade hotel in 1935. The dish was allegedly named by the restaurant manager
Either way the dish is of a chewy meringue base, topped with whipped cream and fresh fruits. Then we have Eaton Mess, a traditional English dessert consisting of a mixture of strawberries, meringue, and whipped cream all mashed together. This concoction was first mentioned in print as far back as 1893, but more commonly attributed to the 1920`s, originating from Eton College and
Harry Nairn who remarked that it was as light as Anna Pavlova ( a famous ballerina that toured Australia in 1926) . Like many matches, controversy reins over this claim almost emphatically as a “John McEnroe” moment, for it is argued that the dish was created in New Zealand ( where Anna also toured ) and stayed at the Wellington hotel, where a meringue dish was created in her honour.
served at the annual cricket match against the pupils of Harrow School. I am informed that Eton mess is apparently and occasionally served at Harrow School, and referred to as “Harrow mess” !. Other stories say that Eaton Mess was originally in effect a “Pavlova” that accidently dropped to the ground of which crushed the dessert to its messy format we know and serve today under its new name !.
Others blame a Labrador dog for sitting on a picnic basket where a Pavlova meringue was awaiting to be served for lunch , needless to say the dish ending up looking a complete “mess” , although I can certainly hear cries of “you can’t be serious” !?. Either way and either one would have the pundits talking for hours before one of these delights were served !. New balls please !. I leave you with both a simple Eton Mess and a pavlova recipe to enjoy over a match or two if you have the time .
Ingredients: 475 ml whipping cream2 tbsp. Grand Marnier ( optional) 1 vanilla pod split to reveal the seeds 30 g ( approx. 6 med sized) shop purchased meringues (broken into small pieces) 450 g fresh local strawberries ( washed then calyx removed) 25grm icing sugar sprig of mint and a strawberry for decoration Method: Mash the strawberries with a fork and drizzle over the Grand Marnier Whip the cream with the icing sugar until it forms a peak then using a metal spoon fold in the strawberries and broken meringue Scoop into chilled serving glasses, top with a little broken meringue, a strawberry, sprig of mint and chill serve immediately
PAVLOVA FRAISES DES BOIS Pour 8 personnes 4 Barquettes de 125g de Fraises des bois CHANTILLY VANILLE 30 cl de crème fleurette 2 gousses de vanille 30 g de sucre semoule MERINGUE SUISSE 8 blancs d'œufs 250 g de sucre semoule 50 g de sucre glace MERINGUE (LA VEILLE) Chauffer au bain-marie les blancs d'oeufs et le sucre semoule jusqu'à ce que le mélange soit blanc et lisse, puis monter au mélangeur pour obtenir une meringue. Incorporer délicatement le sucre glace tamisé. À l'aide d'une poche avec une petite douille, déposer en forme d’escargot les 8 socles,puis dresser le reste de la meringues en bâtonnets Cuire au four à 90 °C pendant 2 heures.
CHANTILLY VANILLE Émulsionner la crème fleurette à l'aide d'un fouet ,ajouter les grains ainsi que le sucre semoule, jusqu'à obtenir une crème onctueuse. COULIS DE FRAISES Laver, égoutter, essuyer et parer les fraises. Mixer l'ensemble avec le sucre et le jus de citron, puis passer au chinois étamine. FINITION ET PRÉSENTATION Déposer une meringue au centre de chaque assiette creuse. La garnir de crème chantilly. Dresser les fraises des bois en pyramide. Décorer de meringue et copeaux de noix de coco . Verser e le coulis de fruits rouges dans le fond de vos assiettes.
CHEF ANTHONY PEAN
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Grilled Octopus, sweetcorn puree,Confit Chorizo & its oil, gochujang aioli, Oscietra Caviar Lemon Verbena oil Recipe supplied by the Exec Chef of The Capital Hotel, Apartments and Townhouse, London
Ingredients & Method: Octopus
Chorizo
Purchase a small octopus – place in a pot and cover in cold water & simmer for at least four hours – or you can buy already-cooked Octopus legs – set aside for later.
Buy one or two best quality chorizo sausages, cover in oil and simmer for 30 mins, leave in oil to cool and cut into shapes. Charred Corn on the cob
Sweetcorn Puree 200g sweetcorn or one tin of cooked sweetcorn, cover with water, a splash of cream & a teaspoon of butter, then boil until half of the liquid is evaporated – put in food processor until smooth.
Leave corn on husk, place into hot pan, roll slowly or until kernels appear to be black, then cut kernels off and set aside.
Gochujang aioli
To plate
Gather together 2tsp Gochujang paste, two garlic cloves and 2 tbsp water – blitz until smooth – add best quality mayonnaise and blitz again.
Smooth puree on chosen plate, place grilled Octopus on top – arrange chorizo on plate, sprinkle the kernels on top, then add small dollops of Gochujang aioli on plate – add some edible flowers – drizzle lemon verbena oil over , added optional extra – generous helping of Sturia Oscietra Caviar Prestige
Lemon Verbena oil Use one bunch of lemon verbena and good quality olive oil to blitz and release the natural lemon oil – leave to infuse.
– serve & enjoy.
Announcements & DIARY EVENTS
Congratulations! To Jennifer Williams who has taken on a part time role as a cookery school chef at the 5 star Chewton Glen spa hotel in Hampshire . Jennifer has her own business making the famous “Naked Jam” brand of jams and marmalades that will keep her busy the rest of the day ( and night) as she is also looking after our very own brand of CSF products soon to be released on the CSF website. Well done Jen and have fun !.
What's on... June : www.csfint.com will be launching its new “Chefs Shop” please do look out for a variety of interesting products including our own CSF chefs jacket and apron, chef knife roll, CSF jams , CSF T shirts, mugs , and much more.... All producers are offering a donation of between 10 and 30% from items sold into our CSF charity. July 11th : Luxembourg On the 11th July 2022 There will be a certificate and pins presentation to all our CSF members in Luxembourg . Our CSF VP`s Anthony Pearn and Alain Clos have done an excellent job in recruiting some incredible members
including world renowned chefs, 1 and 2 Michelin starred, front of house members, sommeliers, foodies as well as the Grand Duke of Luxembourg himself. The event will be a gathering of Luxembourg finest with a famous artist looking after the photography, so an event certainly to look forward to. Needless to say lots of pics in our next CSF edition. October : Lithuania November: UK South A four handed French/Asiatique dinner with our CSF Ambassadors Daren Liew and Daniel Galmiche will take place at the Blue Jasmin restaurant in Southampton UK . £5.00 from every guest will be donated to the CSF charity. More details to come in future CSF magazines. Planning an event please do let me know so we can add it on to our social media sites, as well as advertise and promote it in our next CSF magazine “Summer” edition .
CARNE / JULY 2019
o ur
ME E T GLOBAL AMBAS S A D O R S
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