LET’S STAY IN MORE THAN 120 RECIPES TO NOURISH THE PEOPLE YOU LOVE
ASHLEY RODRIGUEZ
Baron, Roman, and Ivy: this book is yours. With every whip of cloud-like cream, every slick of grassy olive oil, every pinch of flaky salt, my love for you abounds. And remember, there is always room at the table.
Contents Introduction 000 The Food 000 The Book 000
Pantry 000 Breakfast 000 Copyright © 2018 by Ashley Rodriguez Hachette Book Group supports the right to free expression and the value of copyright. The purpose of copyright is to encourage writers and artists to produce the creative works that enrich our culture.
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Photography by Ashley Rodriguez, prop styling for the menus by Lauren Day
Running Press Hachette Book Group 1290 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10104 www.runningpress.com @Running_Press Printed in China
ISBNs: 978-0-7624-9180-3 (hardcover), 978-0-7624-9058-5 (ebook)
First Edition: October 2018 Published by Running Press, an imprint of Perseus Books, LLC, a subsidiary of Hachette Book Group, Inc. The Running Press name and logo is a trademark of the Hachette Book Group.
Print book cover and interior design by Joshua McDonnell Library of Congress Control Number: 0000000000
1010 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
MENU: Weekend Brunch 000
MENU: Christmas Eve 000
Salads and Sides 000 MENU: Summer BBQ 000 MENU: Birthday 000 MENU: Garden Party 000
Sweets and Drinks 000
Midday / Light Meals 000
MENU: Date Night In 000
Snacks and Starts 000
MENU: Christmas Tea 000
MENU: New Year’s Day 000
Mains 000
MENU: Family Movie Night 000 MENU: Fall Gathering 000
MENU: Easter 000
Acknowledgments 000
MENU: Thanksgiving 000
Index 000
Introduction THE FOOD Soft dough rippling under my fingers, the scent of honey and yeast, make me eager for the piece of warm baked bread to come (slathered with a good bit of salted butter, of course). Sharp vinegar tames finely minced shallot as I toss it with blushing cherry tomatoes still warm from the garden. A hefty pour of grassy olive oil unites them all and a few flakes of vanilla salt insist you stand up and take notice. Flour and water slowly evolve with a bit of hearty kneading (which I’ll consider my workout for the day) from a shaggy heap into a soft dough that easily yields under my palms to form long, irregularly shaped noodles. After a quick bath in rolling water salted to mirror the sea, they are tossed with caramelized cremini mushrooms and a few ladles of the starchy pasta water until the sauce submits to a cohesive creaminess. The only thing that comes close to the enjoyment I receive from cooking and eating is talking (or writing) about cooking and eating. I don’t overly fuss with either. The food I cook and enjoy the most is simple and comforting and yet you can tell there’s a passionate cook behind the dish. There’s no question that I derive great pleasure from the kitchen and since you are reading this, I’ll assume the same of you. While writing my first book, Date Night In, I thought often of this book, the one you now hold in your hands. I knew even then that I wanted to tell the story of how food happens in our home: our everyday food. The food in Date Night In is special, as it should be: it is date night, after all. Our typical food, however, rarely takes more than forty-five minutes from idea to table, is very reliant on our pantry, and leans heavily on vegetables IV ~ LET’S STAY IN
and comfort. For the last few years I’ve kept a running journal of some favorites, the dishes that get requested most and the ones I turn to again and again. This book tells that story and shares those recipes. A big part of the story is missing if I only talk about our quick weekday meals, and that’s how we celebrate: with food. Birthdays and holidays call for special menus that have us lingering in the kitchen for hours, filling up a sink with bowls licked clean of chocolate frosting and the table brimming with roasted turkey and billowing mashed potatoes laced with brown butter. Sometimes we create a special day with food. Sometimes I can’t resist a few pints of bright cherry tomatoes at the market and they inspire a tart with a Parmesan crust and goat cheese custard for dinner, on a Wednesday. Some days are marked by the simple foods that land on our table, reminding us that even in the everyday—especially in the everyday—there is beauty, gratitude, and pleasure. Food is how I love, it’s how I heal, it’s how I care for others and myself. Don’t misunderstand me, though: I am human, and there are days (many, in fact) where the thought of making dinner sounds very much like the last thing I want to do. I’m lifted once the olive oil starts to dance in the pan and the onions let off their sweet scent. It’s the pleasure I get from turning a few simple ingredients into something that not only nourishes my family but brings us together and connects us.
~ 1
THE BOOK I’m writing this book from my kitchen. The computer sits on the ledge above me, far away from the splatters of the sink and the stove, away from the flour and the crumbs. I write as I cook. The kids wander in and out, pleading with me for a snack and my advice on what said snack should be. Eyes roll when I immediately respond with “vegetables!” They stand there staring at me until I offer other suggestions. “There are Seedy Granola Snaps (page 000) in the cookie jar and Vanilla and Cardamom Candied Almonds (page 000) in the snack cupboard.” They each grab a handful of almonds, gently sweet and crisp with a light perfume of cardamom—enough to know it’s there but not enough to overwhelm the pickier 2 ~ LET’S STAY IN
eaters in the family. Knowing dinnertime is quickly approaching, I grab my jar of rice from the pantry along with a carton of chicken stock. While in this moment I wish I had stock in the freezer, I’m thankful for the store-bought stuff that seems effortlessly present. With the rice and stock simmering in the oven for our Oven-Baked Risotto (page 000), I reach into the freezer for the peas and open the fridge to find an almost too-far-gone bunch of asparagus I’d picked up at the market earlier in the week. I stir them, gently sautéed and then doused with a bit of white wine, into our creamy rice laced with lacy pungent cheese. My desire for this book is that it will be
stunningly practical. That you will reach for it regularly and that it will provide a glimmer of hope in those frustrating moments when you don’t know what’s for dinner. I’m all too familiar with those moments. This book is filled with recipes that we use over and over in our everyday life but it is also filled with recipes that we use to celebrate the special days or the regular days that need a bit of uplifting through the enjoyment of special food. Because of this desire for practicality, which I’ll admit is not always a strength of mine, I’ve organized the chapters by how we eat through our days: starting with breakfast and ending with dessert. Scattered throughout the pages are menus for easy entertaining, holiday planning, birthdays, and days when you feel like lingering in the kitchen to prepare several dishes for your family or friends. The menus are made up of recipes found throughout the book and have a helpful prep schedule and grocery list so you can plan accordingly. I hope this book will give you freedom. That it will teach you how to use the deep dark crevices of your pantry and to utilize the scraps that you find in the cavernous parts of your refrigerator. My first foray into food was through professional kitchens where there is no forgiveness for waste. Food is a gift and should be treated as such: using it to its full potential, including all roots, stems, leaves, bones, and so on. Seeing how immensely practical a commercial kitchen can be, I take that knowledge and apply it to my own kitchen. I’m thrilled to be able to share that information in the hopes of taking any drudgery out of the act of cooking every day, and putting enjoyment in its
rightful place. My hope is that this book will push you. It might make you feel a little uncomfortable, but where’s the joy in comfort? How do we learn in that? So, I may ask you to stock your pantry with a few ingredients that you aren’t familiar with; I may ask you to use things that you are a little unsure of; I may combine ingredients in a way that leaves you questioning and that’s okay; I may push you to try new techniques, I mean really, when you master the art of frying, for example, it opens up a whole new world. I want the kitchen for you and for me to be a place of excitement and creativity. And I want ingredients to feel like our painter’s palette where we can create hundreds and thousands of different meals without being tied to a recipe. We have the freedom to create, to adjust, to invent on a daily basis. Now, that’s exciting. Along the way I share the sort of thoughts and conversations that would happen around our table. The things I imagine our talking about if we really were sharing a meal together. They are the cobbled-together thoughts that spring up while I’m cooking or the repeated questions I’ve been asked over the years of sharing my life online. Our kitchen and our table, like yours, I’m sure, are the center of our home. So often it’s a far cry from the picturesque Norman Rockwell paintings, but I don’t expect perfection: I long for relationship. Food brings us to the table and my goal in life is to spend as much time there as possible. And that’s my goal for all of you as well because, for me, nothing in life is more beautiful, healing, and life-giving than time spent at the table.
~ 3
Pantry
4 ~ LET’S STAY IN
Meal planning doesn’t work for me. When the kids were little, I tried, I really tried. But I’m just not an organized person and inevitably the food that I planned on Sunday for dinner on Wednesday was not the food that I wanted to eat when Wednesday arrived. So, I’d get frustrated, loathe the cooking process, and end up wasting quite a bit of food in the process. I’d never leave enough days for leftovers and often failed to take into account the food we already had in the fridge and pantry. Now, I’m sure there is a good and organized way to properly meal plan—I just couldn’t find it and had to admit to myself that that system was not for me. What was meant to bring ease in the kitchen left me feeling frustrated and took away some of that spontaneous creativity I love when I cook. I love allowing the markets to inspire me, or in the summer, plucking a few things from the garden. Sometimes, when the cupboards are really bare, I pretend I’m on one of those food competition shows where you think the contents in their mystery basket couldn’t possibly come together in a delicious way. And honestly sometimes they don’t, but I love the challenge and the feeling that out of seemingly nothing, a meal can be created. What I have found that works for me is to keep a well-stocked pantry, a crisper drawer filled with vegetables, or at the very least a few frozen vegetables, such as peas and corn, and always a few good nubs of cheese. Meal planning may work for you and your family. That’s great! The point is, find what works and go with that. Any way you plan to use this book makes me happy. I hope the pages get splattered, the binding starts to crack at your most beloved recipes, and there are notes in the margins reminding you of the changes made to make the recipe yours. Whether you follow the recipes in the pages ahead exactly as written or you use the recipe titles as your starting point, there’s room for it all. But before you get started, let’s talk about my pantry: the ingredients that you will find on repeat
in the recipes in this book. They are the basis that form many of my family’s everyday meals and the foundation to which I add meat or any bits of vegetables I can find.
Beans, Grains, and Pasta For quick weeknight cooking, I often start with a foundation of a bean, grain, or pasta. Unless there is a chicken to roast or something destined for the grill or oven, I’ll turn to the pantry and grab one of these shelf-friendly staples, then build from there. Always on hand: cannellini, black, and pinto beans and chickpeas. Sometimes in both canned and dried forms. For pasta, just keep a good supply of a few varieties of long, slurping noodles and also a few types like penne and orecchiette. If you end up with leftover bits of a few varieties, crumble them up or whack them with a wooden spoon while they’re locked inside a resealable plastic bag and then tip the contents into a roiling pot of soup. Grains often make up the backbone of our weekday cooking. I look to this section of my pantry first and build from there. We have lentils in a rainbow of colors, as well as farro, rice (in many shapes and colors), polenta, couscous, quinoa, and oats. There are others we enjoy, but I make a point to keep jars well stocked of these core grains.
Pantry ~ 5
MENUS One of my absolute favorite kitchen tasks is menu writing. I love carefully constructing the courses so each one complements the other while not attempting to steal the show. It usually starts with a spark of excitement for a certain dish or ingredient, then everything falls into place from there. Sometimes the holiday or special occasion dictates the menu, such as our Christmas Eve dinner where Beef Wellington is always present, or celebrating our birthdays with a towering chocolate cake. Then there are the events created around the food, such as the Harvest Le Grand Aïoli (page 000). Each of the recipes in this book can easily be suited for a few or a crowd, but I’ve provided twelve menus that span the course of a year of entertaining. Every recipe included in the menus is already scaled to feed at least six people. Some are simpler than others, but each is carefully thought out, with a prep schedule for those of you who plan ahead, shopping list for ease, and several recipes that will help create a special reason for gathering at the table. Please don’t feel as if you need to follow these menus exactly. Use your own menu-writing prowess and mix and match as you see fit. You should also consider divvying up the tasks and sending a few of the recipes to other partygoers to contribute to the occasion. People do love to get involved and it makes the task that much more manageable. Remember, entertaining is not about being a hero, it’s really just about bringing people together as often as we possibly can. Set a date, open your door, and sit at the table with the people you love.
BASIC RECIPES Weekend Brunch
000
These are the recipes that are taped on the inside of the cupboard. They are the jars that line our fridge and the (often unlabeled) containers that are shoved haphazardly into the freezer. These recipes are the foundation for many of our meals, the ones we turn to again and again.
New Year’s Day
000 Easter
Classic White Bread
Pie Dough
000
000
000
Thanksgiving
Hamburger Buns
Quick Puff Pastry
000
000
000
Christmas Eve
Focaccia/Pizza Dough
Vanilla Salt
000
000
000
Summer BBQ
Basic Vinaigrette
Harissa Powder
000
000
000
Birthday
Chili Oil
Curry Powder
000
000
000
Garden Party
Grilled Pickled Red Onions
Deeply Toasted Almond Butter
000
000
000
Date Night In
Homemade Mayonnaise
Fennel Honey Butter
000
000
000
Christmas Tea
Roasted Plum (or Apricot) Jam
Parmesan Brittle
000
000
000
Family Movie Night
000 Fall Gathering
000
12 ~ LET’S STAY IN
Pantry ~ 13
Classic White Bread I spent years trying to find our house white bread and this one is it. I use it for buns, cinnamon rolls, and sometimes even pizza dough when a sweet deep-dish style is what we crave. This recipe is quite hefty, making two large loaves, but the dough or the finished baked loaves freeze beautifully and really come in handy when guests stay over or we’re in the mood for a lingering weekend breakfast. MAKE 2 LOAVES
Nonstick spray or melted unsalted butter, for pan 7 cups / 980 g all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons active dry yeast ⁄2 cup / 100 g granulated sugar
1
11⁄2 tablespoons sea salt 21⁄2 cups / 600 ml warm water ⁄2 cup / 110 g unsalted butter, melted, plus more as needed for finishing
1
Grease two 9 x 5-inch / 23 x 12.5 cm loaf pans. Place the flour, yeast, sugar, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, or a large bowl if you are mixing by hand. Mix to combine. While the machine is on low speed, add the warm water. Once nearly combined, stream in the melted butter. Knead for 5 minutes, or until a smooth dough has formed. Use flour to prevent sticking, as needed. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a clean towel. Let rise until doubled, 45 to 60 minutes. Preheat the oven to 350°F / 180°C. For loaves, divide the dough in half. Working one portion, tuck in the edges underneath to form a rough, rounded oval the size of your loaf pan. Gently lay the dough in the prepared loaf pan. Repeat with the second portion of dough. Cover again and let rise until doubled, 30 to 40 minutes. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, or until the loaves are golden on top and sound hollow when gently tapped. My mom always finished her warm bread by slathering the top with butter and I suggest you do the same. Note: If you prefer, you can bake one loaf today and save the rest of the dough to bake tomorrow. Store in a covered container in the fridge for up to 3 days. Shape it and place it in the loaf pan, then bring to room temperature for 90 minutes, or until the dough slowly springs back when gently pressed, before baking in a preheated 350°F / 180°C oven.
14 ~ LET’S STAY IN
Pantry ~ 15
Breakfast
Almond Butter Toast with
Seedy Granola Snaps
Fresh Peaches and Honey
000
000
Oranges in Spiced Syrup
Cocoa Coconut Date Shake
000
000
Spiced Raisin Scones
Italian Scrambled Eggs
000
000
Salted Cinnamon Rolls with Whipped
Frozen Breakfast Pops
Cream Cheese Frosting
000
000
Baked Eggs with
Brioche Doughnuts with
Leeks and Olives
Roasted Apricot Jam
000
000
Morning Miso Noodle Soup
Breakfast BLTs
000
000
Berry Oatmeal Crumble
Slow-Roasted Poblanos with Sweet
000
Potatoes and Pepita Crema
Cherry Ginger Oatnola
000
000
Buckwheat Waffles with
Thick Yogurt with Seedy Honey and
Strawberry Maple Syrup
Fresh Berries
000
000
Oat and Yogurt Pancakes
Fried Eggs with Miso Yogurt
000
and Sesame Seeds
Red Lentil and Chickpea
000
Breakfast Stew 000
34 ~ LET’S STAY IN
Breakfast ~ 35
Tomato and Tonnato Sandwich Tonnato is an Italian sauce made with tuna, lemon juice, olive oil, egg yolks, and often capers—my family doesn’t love them, but you can feel free to add if you like. I’ve simplified the recipe and used mayonnaise here to make a creamy, thick sauce reminiscent of my favorite childhood sandwich. Thinned with a bit of extra-virgin olive oil, this sauce is lovely over grilled pork, roasted or raw vegetables, or salads. If you don’t have a crowd to feed, this sauce can covered and refrigerated for 3 days. SERVES 6
4 ounces / 110 g canned tuna, drained 1 small garlic clove
In a food processor, combine the tuna, garlic clove, sea salt, and lemon zest and juice. Process until finely chopped. Add the mayonnaise and process until smooth. Slather the tonnato onto 6 slices of the bread, then top each with 2 tomato slices. Sprinkle a bit of flake salt on the tomatoes. Finish with arugula (if using) and then the second slice of bread. Note: When the best tomatoes are out of season, thickly slice whatever tomatoes you can find, drizzle with olive oil and sea salt, then roast in a 400°F / 200°C oven until shriveled and sweet, about 30 minutes.
⁄2 teaspoon sea salt
1
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice ⁄3 cup / 75 g mayonnaise
1
12 large, thick tomato slices 12 slices bread, or a baguette sliced in half lengthwise Flake salt 3 cups / 90 g arugula (optional)
78 ~ LET’S STAY IN
Midday/Light Meals ~ 79
Kimchi Cheese Dip 000 Spicy Ranch Party Mix 000 Cacio e Pepe Gougères 000
Snacks and Starts
Charred Scallion Dip 000 Dilly Dip 000 Crispy Chicken Wings with Blue Cheese and Pickled Celery Dip 000 Fresh Oysters with Pickled Cranberry Mignonette 000 Blistered Shishitos and Kumquats 000 Baked Camembert with Blackberries and Rosemary 000 Vanilla and Cardamom Candied Almonds 000 Platter of Bread with Fennel Honey Butter, Serrano Ham, and Fried Pistachios 000
86 ~ LET’S STAY IN
Snacks and Starts ~ 87
Charred Scallion Dip
Dilly Dip
Think French onion dip but without the dry mix or the long slow simmer of browning onions. If you want to lighten up this dip, feel free to use yogurt in place of the sour cream. Serve with ruffled potato chips (there goes the point of lightening up the dip) or with fresh vegetables.
Anything touting the name “salt and vinegar” has my vote, and with the help of this dip, any potato chip has that tangy whisper of vinegar. Or if you’re familiar with and a fan of the elusive dill pickle chip, well, then you are going to love this dip.
MAKES SCANT 2/3 CUP / 160 G
1 tablespoon olive oil 1 bunch scallions (5 to 7), trimmed and halved Pinch of sea salt ⁄2 cup / 110 g sour cream
1
1 tablespoon mayonnaise 1 teaspoon soy sauce Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add the scallions and a pinch of sea salt, then sear for 5 to 7 minutes, turning every few minutes, until deeply charred. Remove the scallions from the pan and set aside to cool. Finely chop the scallions, then place them in a bowl along with the sour cream, mayonnaise, and soy sauce. Stir well to combine, then taste and adjust the seasoning to your liking.
90 ~ LET’S STAY IN
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS / 480 G
5 large dill pickles, cut into spears 1 cup / 20 g finely chopped fresh dill 4 ounces / 110 g cream cheese, at room temperature 1 cup / 240 g sour cream 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard ⁄2 teaspoon sea salt
1
⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1
Place the pickles in a food processor and pulse until finely minced. Add the dill and pulse until that, too, is finely minced. Add the cream cheese, sour cream, Dijon, sea salt, and pepper, then pulse again to combine. Taste and adjust the seasoning to your liking. The dip can be made up to 3 days in advance, though it will get a bit looser as it sits. Simply stir it back together before serving. Serve with plenty of potato chips.
Snacks and Starts ~ 91
Sheet Pan White Pizza with Smoked Mozzarella–Stuffed Crust, Leeks, and Mushrooms
000 Chicken Gyro with Tahini and Scallion Yogurt
000
Grilled Leg of Lamb with Green Sauce
000 Umbricelli with Creminis, Sausage, and Thyme
000
000
Charred Corn Totchos with Braised Flank Steak and Beer Queso
Asparagus Tacos
Chanterelle Chowder with Bacon
000 Oven-Baked Risotto with Butternut Squash and Candied Rosemary Walnuts
000 Chicken and Herb Lettuce Wraps with Crispy Shallots and Peanuts
000 Blue Ribbon Tomato Tart
000 Honey-Roasted Ham with Mustard Mornay Sauce
000 Spring Pea Falafel with Harissa Yogurt
000
000 Chorizo Mac and Cheese
000 Fire-Roasted Sausage and Vegetables with Creamy Dijon
000 White Bean Shashuka
000 Turkey Roulade with Cherry and Sausage Stuffing
000 Lemony Carbonara with Peas
000 Chicken Tenders with Apple Cider Sweetand-Sour Sauce
000
Mussels with Caramelized Fennel Cream
Sticky Ribs with Tangy Coffee Molasses BBQ Sauce
000
000
Curried Tomato Coconut Lentils with Gingery Yogurt
Harvest Le Grand Aïoli
000 Sheet Pan Meatloaf with Roasted Vegetables
000
102 ~ LET’S STAY IN
000
Steak Tacos with Radish and Pickled Onion
000
Mains
Roasted Potato and Cauliflower Burrito
000 Peach and Chile–Marinated Salmon with Grilled Peaches
000
Pork Bánh Mì Burgers
Beef Wellington with Arugula Dijon Pesto and Creamy Horseradish Sauce
000
000
Mains ~ 103
Steak Tacos with Radish and Pickled Onion This is one of my most beloved recipes for a warm sunny day, windows open, breeze flowing through the kitchen. It’s perfect for on the grill or on the stove. If you have a hungry crowd to feed, simply double or triple the recipe. In fact, I tend to double everything anyway, so I am well ahead of tomorrow’s dinner. I like to be kind to my future self. SERVES 4 TO 6
1 pound / 450 g flank or skirt steak 11⁄2 teaspoons sea salt 2 limes, divided 6 to 10 corn tortillas (I actually do half flour, half corn, as we have admirers of both in our family) 4 radishes, thinly sliced Grilled Pickled Red Onions (page 000) ⁄2 cup / 60 g crumbled Cotija cheese
1
Chopped fresh cilantro, for serving Chopped avocado, for serving
110 ~ LET’S STAY IN
Season the steak with the sea salt. Sear the steak in a large, screaming hot skillet for about 5 minutes per side. If the steak is too large to fit in the skillet, cut the steak in half, then sear in batches. Or you can grill the steak over high heat, 3 to 4 minutes per side. When gently pressed, the meat will feel a bit tight for medium or 140°F / 60°C. If you prefer medium-rare (130° to 135°F / 54° to 57°C), take the steak off the heat when the meat gently gives when pressed. Remove the steak from the skillet or grill and let rest on a cutting board for 10 to 15 minutes. Shower the grated zest of 1 lime over top of the meat as it rests and squeeze the juice of half of that lime over the top. Reserve the remaining half. After it has rested, cut the meat into rough cubes between 1⁄4 and 1⁄ 2 inch / 6 mm and 1.3 cm thick. Squeeze the juice of the reserved lime half over the top of the meat. Warm the tortillas in the oven or gently char them over a low gas flame. If you’re using a grill to cook the steak, then crisp the tortillas on the grill while the meat rests. For assembly, place about 1⁄4 cup / 60 g of the cubed meat on a tortilla, then top with radish, pickled onion, and the crumbled Cotija. Cut the remaining lime into wedges and serve on the side. If you have it, a bit of cubed avocado and roughly chopped cilantro is nice on top, too, but not necessary.
Mains ~ 111
Oven-Baked Risotto with Butternut Squash and Candied Rosemary Walnuts As much as I love cooking, the reality is that most days don’t afford me the luxury of attentively stirring a pot for an hour with a glass of pinot in hand. But just because that’s my reality doesn’t mean I can’t have risotto on a regular basis. Enter oven-baked risotto. This no-stir method produces a creamy, satisfying result without all the stirring (don’t worry, you can still have the wine in hand while the oven does all the work). The process starts with a cold oven so that pesky preheating isn’t even an issue here. And if fall is a season or two away, feel free to skip the squash and candied walnuts and go for, say, roasted asparagus with peas. Or how about roasted corn and tomato laced with tangy goat cheese and a few wisps of basil? The adaptability here makes this dinner a perfect candidate for cleaning out your fridge. This recipe generously feeds our family, but can easily be doubled to feed a bigger crowd. SERVES 4 TO 6
4 tablespoons / 60 g unsalted butter, divided 1 large yellow onion, diced 2 teaspoons finely chopped rosemary leaves 1 medium-size butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and diced (about 4 cups / 540 g) 11⁄2 teaspoons sea salt, divided 11⁄4 cups / 250 g arborio rice 4 cups / 960 ml chicken or vegetable stock 1 cup / 240 ml white wine, divided 1 cup / 100 g finely grated Parmesan cheese Candied Rosemary Walnuts (recipe follows) ⁄2 cup / 60 g crumbled Gorgonzola cheese (optional)
1
C A N D I E D R O S E MA RY WA LN U T S MAKES 1 CUP / 120 G
1 cup / 120 g walnuts ⁄4 cup / 50 g granulated sugar
1
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves Flake salt
Place the walnuts, sugar, and rosemary leaves in a dry skillet over medium-high heat. Stir occasionally as the sugar melts and caramelizes. Don’t leave the pan, as the walnuts and sugar can burn quickly. As the sugar starts to melt, stir continuously until completely melted and the walnuts have shifted in color. The sugar will start to smoke, but continue to cook until deeply caramelized. Immediately and carefully dump the caramelized walnuts onto a plate, sprinkle with flake salt, then let cool.
Heat 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet. Stir in the onion and rosemary and sauté over medium heat until they just start to color, about 15 minutes. Add the butternut squash and 1⁄ 2 teaspoon sea salt, then continue to cook for 5 minutes. In a 13 x 9-inch / 33 x 23 cm baking dish, combine the rice, stock, 1⁄ 2 cup / 120 ml white wine, remaining 2 tablespoons butter, and remaining teaspoon sea salt, then stir in the butternut squash mixture. Place the dish in the middle rack a cold oven. Turn the oven temperature to 400°F / 200°C. Bake for 30 minutes, stirring about halfway through. The rice should still be ever so chewy. Remove the baking dish from the oven, then stir in the remaining 1⁄ 2 cup / 120 ml white wine and the Parmesan. Serve with the candied walnuts and gorgonzola crumbles, if using. Serve while warm. Note: Leftovers? Breaded in panko breadcrumbs, leftover risotto fries up beautifully in a skillet with just a bit of oil. Add an egg if the risotto is not wanting to hold together.
120 ~ LET’S STAY IN
Mains ~ 121
Easter Even though the gray clouds don’t often proclaim the arrival of spring as early as this holiday comes around, I use our Easter feast as a celebration of new life and a new season. In the Pacific Northwest we welcome spring with arms outstretched wide, eager to feel the first fingers of warmth on our face. This menu features some of the season’s first offerings while still being homey, warm, and inviting. Just what the transition of the seasons calls for.
Honey-Roasted Ham with Mustard Mornay Sauce
000 2 recipes Blistered Snap Pea Salad with Brown Butter Vinaigrette
000 Parmesan Roasted Asparagus
000 Crispy Potato Scallion Cakes
000 Golden Raisin Orange Rolls with Maple Butter
000 No-Bake Greek Yogurt Cheesecake with Brown Sugar Blueberries and Poppy Seeds
000
128 ~ LET’S STAY IN
Mains ~ 129
Turkey Meatballs in Arrabiata Sauce There is something inherently cozy about tucking into a bowl of simmered red sauce and meatballs. It’s what I crave when the outside world feels weighty and too much. When I find myself feeling so small and overwhelmed, there’s a bowl of slick noodles and warming sauce that somehow feeds hope as it fills me up. Or sometimes it’s simply what I crave on a cold evening. Arrabiata is a simple sauce with a bit of heat—or a lot of heat, if that’s what you prefer. The anchovy here adds a salty depth without leaving the dish tasting fishy. I am hesitant to say that you can leave it out, as it adds so much, but I will say it; if you do, just add a bit more salt in the process. This is one of those meals that is easily doubled and can slip into the freezer for another night. It’s also sturdy enough to pass along to a friend who is need of a good home-cooked meal.
To make the meatballs: In a large bowl, combine the turkey, Parmesan, breadcrumbs, sea salt, oregano, red pepper flakes, parsley, basil, garlic, onion, and egg. Stir just until everything is well mixed, but take care not to overmix as you don’t want to toughen the meat. Sear a small amount of the mixture in a skillet, then taste and adjust the seasoning to your liking. Form the mixture into meatballs, using roughly 2 tablespoons of the meat mixture per ball. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet or Dutch oven. Sear the meatballs on all sides over high heat until a deep, dark crust forms. Remove the
meatballs from the pan and set aside while you prepare the sauce. To make the sauce: Add the olive oil to the same pan and sauté the anchovies, garlic, and red pepper flakes over medium-high heat. Once the garlic has turned golden, carefully add the tomatoes. Stir in the oregano, sea salt, and black pepper. Return the meatballs to the pan, then gently simmer until they are cooked through, 10 to 15 minutes. Serve over creamy polenta or pasta.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Turkey Meatballs:
Arrabiata Sauce:
1 pound/ 450 g ground dark turkey meat
2 tablespoons olive oil
⁄2 cup / 50 g finely grated Parmesan cheese
2 anchovies, minced
⁄3 cup / 20 g panko breadcrumbs
4 garlic cloves, sliced
1 1
1 teaspoon sea salt 1 teaspoon dried oregano Pinch of red pepper flakes
⁄4 to 1⁄2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (or more if desired)
1
1 (28-ounce / 800 g) can crushed tomatoes ⁄2 teaspoon dried oregano
1
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
1
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil
1
3 garlic cloves, minced
⁄2 teaspoon sea salt ⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1
⁄2 small onion, finely diced
For serving:
1 large egg
Cooked polenta or pasta
2 tablespoons olive oil
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Mains ~ 143
White Bean Shashuka Rare is the meal that is both comforting and virtuous. Freshly ground spices and a deep char give this simple meal a rich, hearty flavor that leads you to believe it has been simmering on the stove since breakfast. Serve with grilled pita or other sort of bread for tucking into the smoky tomato sauce. SERVES 4 TO 6
1 teaspoon coriander seeds 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 teaspoon fennel seeds 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 red bell pepper, thinly sliced 1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced 1 teaspoon smoked paprika 1 teaspoon sea salt, plus more for sprinkling 1 (28-ounce / 785 g) can diced tomatoes 1 (15-ounce / 430 g) can white beans, drained and rinsed Freshly ground black pepper 4 to 6 large eggs, to your preference ⁄2 cup / 10 g fresh parsley or cilantro leaves
1
⁄2 cup / 60 g crumbled feta cheese
1
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Set a dry skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium heat. Add the coriander, cumin, and fennel seeds, then toast until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Carefully transfer the seeds to a plate to cool before grinding in your spice grinder. Heat the olive oil in the same skillet over medium-high heat. Add the bell pepper and onion in an even layer, then do not be tempted to stir or fuss with them. Let them get a good, dark char, 3 to 4 minutes, before giving a quick stir and cooking a bit more until nearly all of the pepper and onion are blackened in parts. This process will take about 10 minutes. Add the ground spices, paprika, and sea salt. Stir for 1 minute before carefully tipping in the tomatoes. Let this mixture come to a simmer before stirring in the white beans. Bring everything to a gentle boil, then lower the heat to a steady simmer. Simmer for 5 minutes, or until the tomatoes have thickened. Carve out a little divot for each of the eggs you plan to cook, then carefully crack them in. Add a bit of sea salt and black pepper to each egg, then cover the skillet with a lid (or sheet pan if you can’t find the matching lid). Cook over low heat until the eggs are just set, 4 to 6 minutes. Finish with the fresh herbs and feta. Serve right away.
Mains ~ 159
Thanksgiving With any big holiday meal, it’s important for the food to feel special as the occasion deems, but I cringe at all the hype around the preparations and the pressure for perfection. The food should never distract from the reason for gathering but add to it. Each of these recipes have many elements that can be prepped well in advance with the hope that the process of cooking this meal will delight rather than defeat. If you want to riff off of our holiday menu, might I suggest the Grilled Green Beans with Basil Gremolata and Parmesan Brittle (double the recipe on page 000) or the Winter Greens Gratin (page 000)? Our table is never without dinner rolls whose primary reason for existence is to craft the perfect leftover turkey sandwich. For this I use the same method for the Golden Raisin Orange Rolls (page 000), simply omitting the zest and raisins.
Fresh Oysters with Pickled Cranberry Mignonette
000 Turkey Roulade with Cherry and Sausage Stuffing
000 Sweet and White Potato Gratin with Bay Butter
000 Roasted Delicata Squash Salad
000
Note: If substituting store-bought stuffing mix, subtract the ingredients for Homemade Stuffing Mix (page 000) from the shopping list.
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Timeline 1 TO 3 DAYS IN ADVANCE Make sure turkey will be defrosted on time. Make sausage stuffing. Make roll dough. Make pickled cranberry mignonette.
DAY OF Assemble turkey roulade. Assemble gratin. Roast delicata squash. Assemble, rise, and bake rolls.
MEALTIME Shuck oysters. Assemble squash salad.
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Shopping List MEAT, EGGS, AND DAIRY
PANTRY
1 dozen oysters, shucked 2 pounds / 900 g ground pork sausage 1 (12- to 14-pound / 5.5 -6.4 kg) turkey 2 large eggs 2 ounces / 60 g feta cheese 3.5 ounces / 100 g Parmesan cheese 31/2 cups / 960 ml heavy whipping cream 2 pounds / 900 g unsalted butter
Extra-virgin olive oil Champagne vinegar Dijon mustard Honey Sea salt Flake salt Fresh ground black pepper 2 tablespoons harissa powder (or see page 000 for homemade) 5 dried bay leaves Garlic powder 2 cup / 480 ml chicken stock 1 cup / 240 ml brandy 1/2 cup / 60 g chopped hazelnuts 10 cups / 400 grams 1/2-inch- / 1.3 cm-diced rustic bread 11/2 cups / 240 g dried cherries
PRODUCE 1 lime 1/4 cup / 10 g pomegranate seeds 0.5 ounce / 15 g fresh or frozen cranberries 1 avocado 2 pounds / 910 g delicata squash (about 2 large) 2 pounds / 900 g sweet potatoes 4 pounds / 1.8 kg russet potatoes 4 celery stalks 1 shallot 2 large onions 5 garlic cloves 1 small red onion (about 4 ounces / 120 g) 1 small package fresh mint leaves (10 g) 1 small package fresh rosemary 1 small package fresh sage 1 small package fresh thyme
Mains ~ 167
Garlic Miso Rolls Be warned that the moment you unveil these rolls, you will be asked to make them for every dinner, gathering, and party you’re invited to for the rest of your life. The quantity of garlic and miso make them addicting, but it’s the process of pulling back the buttery layers that makes us all swoon. Once again, that trusty Classic White Bread recipe comes to the rescue. While this recipe only asks for half of the white bread recipe, I still always make the full batch, then store the rest in the fridge for up to three days or frozen for up to one month. Thaw frozen bread dough in the fridge the night before you plan to bake, then shape and let rise, and bake as directed. MAKES 12 ROLLS
Unsalted butter or nonstick spray, for pan 10 garlic cloves, peeled ⁄3 cup / 90 g white or yellow miso
1
⁄2 cup / 110 g unsalted butter, at room temperature
1
Up to 1⁄4 teaspoon sea salt (optional) 2 pounds / 900 g Classic White Bread dough (1⁄2 recipe, page 000) All-purpose flour, for dusting Flake salt
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Grease a 10-inch / 25.5 cm cake pan or springform pan. In a food processor, pulse the garlic until finely minced. Add the miso, then pulse to combine. Add the butter, then process until completely combined. Taste before you add the sea salt, as miso varies in salinity. Roll out the dough on a well-floured surface to about 1⁄ 2-inch / 1.3 cm thickness in a rough rectangle shape, as you would for cinnamon rolls, long side closest to you. Slather on the flavored butter all over the surface of the dough. Start at the end closest to you, rolling up the edge of the dough but pull firmly as you roll so the dough stretches into a thin layer. This will ensure that you get many luxurious layers and the garlic miso butter is spread throughout. Continue rolling and pulling in this way until you’ve reached the far end. Cut the dough into 12 equal-size rolls (about 11⁄ 2 inches / 4 cm wide) and space evenly, cut side up, in the prepared pan. The ends of the dough will most likely be a bit misshapen, but bake those up and serve for the cook’s snack. Cover the dough loosely with a clean dish towel or plastic wrap. Set in a warm place to rise for about 30 minutes. While the dough rises, preheat the oven to 350°F / 180°C. Sprinkle the tops of the rolls with a bit of flake salt, then bake in the middle of the oven with a sheet pan below (to catch any dripping butter) for 30 to 40 minutes, or until deeply golden and baked through. Remove from the oven and let cool in the pan for 10 minutes before unmolding. Serve while warm or room temperature. Saladsand Sides
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Tart Cherry Brownies with Cardamom Cream Cheese If perfection existed in a brownie, this would be it. It is intensely chocolaty, with the help of both cocoa powder (use the best you can find) and bittersweet chocolate (ditto), a bit tart thanks to chewy and bright dried cherries, and swirled with cardamom-laced cream cheese. There’s a bit of a crackling crust running through the cream cheese and a fudginess that teeters toward chewy the longer they sit (or if you like to eat yours out of the fridge as I do). MAKES 16 BROWNIES
Brownies: Unsalted butter or nonstick spray, for pan ⁄4 cup / 170 g unsalted butter
3
1 cup / 170 g chopped dark chocolate, divided 3 large eggs 1 cup / 220 g packed dark brown sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ⁄2 cup / 70 g all-purpose flour
1
⁄2 cup / 40 g unsweetened cocoa powder
1
⁄4 teaspoon sea salt
3
⁄2 cup / 90 g dried cherries
1
Cardamom Cream Cheese: 6 ounces / 170 g cream cheese, at room temperature ⁄4 cup / 50 g granulated sugar
1
1 large egg yolk ⁄2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1
⁄2 teaspoon ground cardamom
1
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To make the brownies: Preheat the oven to 350°F / 180°C. Grease and line an 8-inch / 20.5 cm square pan with parchment paper, leaving enough hanging over the edge so you can easily remove the brownies after they’ve baked and cooled. Grease the parchment. In a small saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Bring the butter to a boil and let simmer until foamy and the butter shifts in color and starts to smell nutty, 4 to 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and add 1⁄ 2 cup / 85 g chopped chocolate. Let that sit for just a couple of minutes. While the chocolate and butter hang out, combine the eggs, brown sugar, and vanilla in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Whisk until lightened in color and the sugar has dissolved, 3 to 4 minutes. Alternatively, an electric hand mixer works well here, too. Stir the chocolate and butter together, then add this to the egg mixture. Sift in the flour, cocoa powder, and sea salt, then gently fold until just combined. Stir in the remaining 1⁄ 2 cup / 85 g chocolate and the dried cherries, taking care not to overmix the batter. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. To make the cardamom cream cheese: In a small bowl, cream together the cream cheese, sugar, egg yolk, vanilla, and cardamom until completely blended. Dot the top of the brownie batter with the cream cheese mixture, then use a toothpick or knife to create a swirling pattern in the brownies. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until set around the edges and still a bit soft in the middle. Remove from the oven and let the brownies cool in the pan completely before lifting them out of the pan. Cut into 16 squares, then serve, or tuck away for when the mood hits. Sweets and Drinks ~ 297
Chocolate Peanut Butter Bûche de Noël with Salted Peanut Caramel The holidays are the perfect time for showstopping desserts. The Bûche de Noël, or Yule Log, is a classic French dessert of a rolled-up cake, or roulade, with some sort of filling tucked inside and decorated with meringue mushrooms and frosting shaped as holly leaves, to resemble log. My version, while lacking in sugar decorations (although there have been years where those were present, too) is filled with a creamy peanut butter mousse and each slice is bathed in a salty peanut caramel. There are a number of steps here, but each can be made in advance and even the finished cake itself can be kept in the fridge overnight, if needed. The lengthy process is immediately erased when you see the delight on your friends’ and family’s face when they watch you parade a giant chocolate log into the dining room. After that, you there’s no way they’ll make you wash the dishes.
To make the cake: Preheat the oven to 350°F / 180°C. Grease and line a 17 x 12-inch / 43 x 30.5 cm jelly-roll pan with parchment paper. Grease the parchment paper. Set aside. Sift together the flour and cocoa powder in a bowl, then set aside. Place the egg yolks in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment or use an electric hand mixer. Beat on medium speed until frothy and just starting to shift from lemon yellow to butter yellow. Add 1/3 cup / 67 g sugar in a slow and steady stream. Continue to beat until thick and pale yellow, 4 to 5 minutes.
Transfer the egg yolk mixture to a large bowl, then wash the mixer bowl and whisk. Wipe dry, then add the egg whites to the clean bowl. Beat starting on low speed, then gradually build up the speed so as not to shock the eggs. Once frothy, add the sea salt. Continue to beat until soft peaks form, then steadily stream in the remaining 2/3 cup / 133 g sugar. Beat until stiff peaks form, 3 to 5 minutes. Fold the egg whites into the whipped yolks. Gently fold the dry ingredients into the whipped eggs. Continue to fold until no streaks remain. Use an offset spatula to spread the batter into
SERVES 10 TO 12
Cake:
Chocolate ganache:
Unsalted butter or nonstick spray, for pan
1 cup / 240 ml heavy whipping cream
⁄2 cup / 70 g all-purpose flour
8 ounces / 230 g bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1
⁄2 cup / 40 g unsweetened cocoa powder, plus more for dusting
1
6 large eggs, separated 1 cup / 200 g granulated sugar, divided ⁄2 teaspoon sea salt
1
1 teaspoon vanilla extract Peanut butter mousse: 1 pound 4 ounces / 560 g (from 21⁄2 [8-ounce / 225 g] packages) cream cheese, at room temperature 2 cups / 500 g creamy peanut butter
Pinch of sea salt Salted Peanut Caramel: 1 cup / 200 g granulated sugar ⁄2 cup / 170 ml Lyle’s Golden Syrup or light corn syrup
1
1 cup / 240 ml heavy whipping cream 4 tablespoons / 60 g unsalted butter, at room temperature ⁄2 vanilla bean (optional)
1
1 cup / 170 g roasted and salted peanuts
⁄2 cup / 120 g confectioners’ sugar
1
⁄4 cup / 60 ml heavy whipping cream
1
⁄4 teaspoon sea salt
1
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Sweets and Drinks ~ 303