Birgitta – as pilgrim

TEXT: åse wännerstam

Birgitta Birgersdotter was born in 1303, and this year marks 650 years since her death. Birgitta was the daughter of the lawspeaker Birger Persson, from Finsta in Uppland. Her mother was Ingeborg Bengtsdotter, from Bjälboätten in Östergötland. Birgitta was declared a saint (Saint Bridget) in 1391, but in Sweden she is more widely known as Holy Birgitta of Vadstena. Not only is Birgitta one of Europe's six patron saints, but with more than six hundred publications to her name, she was also the most productive author of the Swedish Middle Ages.

Mentor to the queen and a lawspeaker’s wife

At the age of 13, Birgitta was married to the then 18-yearold Ulf Gudmarsson. It’s said that the young people grew to love each other and had a happy, if conflict-filled relationship. Birgitta devoted much time to her religious life, while Ulf was a knight to the court and probably more outgoing. Ulf also became a lawspeaker in Närke. The couple ran a large household at Ulfåsa by Lake Boren in Östergötland, where their eight children were born. Birgitta also became mentor to the young queen Blanche (of Namur), and divided her time between Vadstena and Ulfåsa for several years

A medieval family tradition

Birgitta’s parents came from one of the most prominent families of the Swedish Middle Ages. Her father, Birger, was a lawspeaker in Uppland and her mother, Ingeborg, was closely related to the royal family. As such, it was tradition to set off on a pilgrimage. Thus Birgitta’s father visited Santiago de Compostela and her grandfather visited Jerusalem.

Medieval tourism

It may be difficult for us today to imagine that in the 14th century, people travelled as much as they did. But the truth was that soldiers, businessmen and pilgrims travelled regularly across Europe. Pilgrims travelled on foot, or sometimes on horseback, often undertaking difficult journeys to the graves of saints both within and outside Sweden. Typically a pilgrim would travel 30-40 kms per day. These journeys became popular folk movements, and large groups travelled together, which often worked well. The journeys were often dangerous, and pilgrims were frequently attacked and robbed. Along the way, there were well known stops and even tour operators who organised all the practicalities. Medieval tourism even had its sellers of souvenirs and pilgrim badges. Places visited back then are still tourist sites today: Norway, Spain, Italy and the Holy Land. The longer the journey, the greater the effort and thus the greater the spiritual effect. The purpose of a pilgrimage was to appease God, cure diseases, injuries or disabilities, or simply to express gratitude to God.

Pilgrim journeys

Birgitta became very well travelled over time. Together with Ulf she undertook several pilgrimages. Like many other Scandinavians, they travelled to see the relics of the Norwegian Saint-King Olav in Nidaros Cathedral (Trondheim). She undoubtedly visited the reliquary of Eric the Holy, in Uppsala Cathedral, many times, as her parents are also buried there.

Their next trip was to Santiago de Compostela, and whilst their exact route is not known, it is likely they travelled down through France. This particular journey affected Birgitta greatly. France was ravaged by war, and she saw great suffering in the wake of the war and the plague that had afflicted Europe. The trip lasted for three years and on the way home Ulf fell seriously ill. They managed to reach Alvastra Abbey, 20 km south of Vadstena. Ulf was cared for by the Cistercian brothers, but died from his illness in 1344. Birgitta remained in Alvastra for five years before making a long trip to Rome, where she then remained until her death. She was also urged by Christ to encourage the Pope to return to Rome.

Both her sons Birger and Karl, and her daughter Katarina, accompanied her on the journey. They stayed with Queen Johanna in Naples, who was a friend of Birgitta. It is said that Johanna became very fond of Karl and that he brought about a great scandal by kissing the queen on the mouth. The journey became dramatic in several ways as the company continued by boat. Off Jaffa, the boat ran aground and panic broke out. Only Birgitta was calm, saying that God was with them. The group lost all their belongings but managed to reach shore unharmed. They arrived in Jerusalem exactly one year after their departure from Rome.

The last trip home to Vadstena

The pilgrimage to Jerusalem took a heavy toll on Birgitta's strength, and on 23 July 1373 she died in her home in Rome. At her side were her son Birger, her daughter Katarina, her confessors and the entire household. When the news of her death spread, large numbers of people gathered outside her house. Her body was transported through Europe in a secure wooden casket with iron fittings. The journey took seven months, with a group of some twenty people following the casket, led by Katarina.

The coffin can be seen in Vadstena at Sancta Birgitta Klostermuseum, and the reliquary can be seen in the Abbey Church. Here, Birgitta relics were manufactured as early as the 1300s. Vadstena quickly became the most visited pilgrimage site in Scandinavia in the Middle Ages, and even today thousands of pilgrims visit the church. The Nordic mystic is one of the world's most famous Swedes.

From Rome she made many trips to famous places of pilgrimage: Assisi, the birthplace of Saint Francis; the Benedictine Abbey in Farfa; the tomb of Saint Andrew in Amalfi; the tomb of Saint Matthew in Salerno. She visited Naples several times. Her final pilgrimage, in 1371, was undertaken following a revelation from Christ to visit the Holy Land. She expressed her dismay at being too old and infirm, but received a clear answer: “Why do you blame your old age?

I am the creator of nature, I can weaken and strengthen as I please.”

medieval "visa cards"

How did the pilgrims avoid carrying cash and getting robbed? Helgandsbanken had offices all over Europe. The traveller had a personal letter issued by a local bank certifying that the pilgrim had money there. On presentation of the letter, the pilgrim was then able to take out money along the way.

Ingrid Of Sk Nninge

The first well-known Swedish pilgrim who travelled to Santiago de Campostela was St. Ingrid. She was a prioress and founded the Dominican Convent in Skänninge in 1281. She was also a lady-in-waiting at King Valdemar's court in Vadstena and aunt to Birgitta's father's first wife.