THE ECCO JOURNAL AW17 by rural tailor

— ECCO JOUR NAL — I N T H I S I S S U E W E C E L E B R AT E M O D E R N U T I L I T Y , I N S P I R E D BY N AT U R E A N D T R U T H T O M AT E R I A L S . W E E X P L O R E T H E P O S S I B I L I T I E S O F P E R P E T U A L N AT U R A L M O T I O N

AU TU MN / WINTER 2017

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AUTUMN / WINTER 2017 —

ECCO JOURNAL In this issue we celebrate modern utility, inspired by nature and truth to materials. We explore the possibilities of perpetual natural motion.

WE ARE NOT TYPICAL SHOEMAKERS

SORT SOL

W-21 — ECCO'S NEW EXPERIMENTAL SHOE STORE IN AMSTERDAM

A COMPELLING VOICE IN CINEMA — AMMA ASANTE

GOING GREEN IN SEVENTEEN

THE TREE THAT ALWAYS GROWS BACK

CONCEPTUAL DESIGN THINKING — B&O PLAY

ECCO LEATHER X THE SHOE SURGEON

SHAPE UP

IT’S ALL IN THE DETAIL

A DOCTOR OF SCIENCE

ROLL WITH ME — JACOB DINESEN

A FAMILY GAME LIKE NO OTHER

GUARDIANS OF GROWING FEET

ECCO KINHIN (431003-50708)

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WE ARE NOT TYPICAL SHOEMAKERS The simple truth that has always motivated us is this: P R E M I U M

R A W

M A T E R I A L S P E R P E T U A L

D Y N A M I C = N A T U R A L

C O M F O R T

P L A T F O R M S

M O T I O N

ECCO DESIGN, ENGINEERING & PRODUCTION

fashion brands, including world-renowned fellow Danish design

This season, it seemed important to take a moment to reflect on

label Bang & Olufsen, whose story is featured in this journal. ECCO

the achingly simple truths that have always provided our brand

Leather is home to 35 generations of tanning know-how, and it

with its unique dynamism. Essential truths that crackle and spark like

operates the most advanced leather R&D facility in the world.

electrical cables, energising our design studios, advanced inno-

Recent breakthroughs include Hestia Alu-Silica Hybrid Tanning

vation labs, in-house R&D divisions, owned-and-operated leather

— an alternative to traditional vegetable and chrome tanning,

tanneries and state-of-the-art production facilities. The truths that

Hestia is distinguished by a brighter pre-tan, perfect for blending a

pulse through our retail stores and charge through the veins of

natural and contemporary look and feel like that of the new ECCO

everyone who works at ECCO.

KINHIN. Other highlights include the rugged new Firestarter wild hide and camel leather used on our new ECCO CROSS X model.

DYNAMIC COMFORT PLATFORMS We have been pushing the boundaries of direct injection produc-

ECCO PERPETUAL NATURAL MOTION

tion (DiP) for a long time. Inspired by his unique vision of its limitless

Our standing in the industry and our power to innovate comes

potential, ECCO's late founder Karl Toosbuy took bold steps towards

directly from these long-standing investments in leather tanning

placing ECCO at the forefront of direct injection technology. Since

and shoe engineering. But they are only the what and the how. We

then, our teams have challenged every industry convention and

also have strong ideas about why. As a Danish company motivated

every outdated preconception to produce an endless parade of

by a deeply held Danish design ethos, our work is characterised by

technical breakthroughs — from ECCO SOFT to ECCO SHARK, from

a modern sense of utility inspired by nature and truth to materials.

BIOM® to SPYDR GRIP®, from RECEPTOR® to ECCO COOL GORE-TEX®

And as a Danish design studio working in a landscape in which

SURROUND . The new season is no exception as we launch unique

the synchronised movement of millions of starlings can sometimes

new platforms, like the CORKSPHERE™ suspended footbed at the

appear to eclipse the sun itself, we are obsessed with merging

heart of the new ECCO KINHIN, and evolve the production process

and harmonising these unique forces to deliver our own Perpetual

with our new FLUIDFORMTM variation on injection technology. No

Natural Motion wearing experience.

other technique produces the integral, supple, durable, lightweight, seamless, glue-free and stitch-free full-surface flexible

WE CHOOSE TO STEP UP

bond of FLUIDFORMTM DiP. Every day, we push the envelope to

We feel fortunate to work simultaneously within the ancient art

enable it to do even more.

of leather tanning and the futuristic world of cutting-edge multidimensional direct injection production. We strive to achieve a

ECCO LEATHER: OUR PREMIUM RAW MATERIAL

balance between past and future in all of our products. And while

Our commitment to the art and science of leather tanning is truly

we are only in the modest world of shoemaking, we also believe

unique within the shoemaking world. We established our own

it's possible for every one of us to step up and into our individual

tanneries and began developing our own leathers long ago.

dynamic futures without letting go of our proud past. So of course,

Over the years, our passion led to industry leadership, and we are

we hope that in at least some small way, our shoes allow you to do

proud to say that ECCO Leather tanneries now provide innovative

the same — because here at ECCO, the only place we're never

leather to some of the world's most elite performance, lifestyle and

comfortable ... is standing still.

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SORT SOL Nature in such harmony it eclipses the sun

PHOTO: TØNDERFOTO

A lust for life and an instinct for survival can inspire some of the

flock are a defence against hawks, buzzards and falcons — by

most potent drama. This is no less true of the natural world, and

keeping their shape and flying in seamless unison, the starlings

especially so in Tønder, Denmark, home to ECCO's international

ensure their best chance of survival.

design centre, where you might witness a phenomenon known as the Sort Sol, or 'Black Sun'.

Some who have stood in the marshes and stared into the 'Black Sun' have described it as Denmark's most bewitching natural

Up to a million synchronised starlings flock to the area, producing

event. For our designers, it is one of many seasonal reminders of the

a magical natural veil that nearly eclipses the sun. There is a great

power and appeal of perpetual natural motion; it is the root of their

beauty in addition to the darkness, as the birds create graceful

ambition to reflect just a little of this boundless energy within the

moving formations that constantly dance, twist, shake, swoop and

products they create. To witness the performance, you must visit in

soar ceaselessly across the giant dome of the Danish sky.

the spring or the autumn, which is when the migrating starlings rest and feed as they travel north to their summer breeding grounds in

These are sunset 'performances' of such wonderful grace and

Scandinavia and the Baltics, or south to their winter homes in the

choreography that spectators can't help but compare them to a

warmer parts of Europe.

night at the ballet. But the reality is that the beauty is rooted in a lust for life and in their collective struggle to evade natural predators who attempt to infiltrate the flock. The dynamic formations of the —7—

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An Experimental ECCO Shoe Store in Amsterdam

establishment in 1963, we have invested in a long tradition of innovation and have worked to pioneer new developments across all major areas of design and production with a dedication to producing dynamic comfort platforms as well as highly progressive approaches to the tanning and finishing of premium leathers. ECCO designs are distinguished by a blend of these two elements.

I.L.E. | A PROJECT OF INNOVATION LAB ECCO Our commitment to innovation is not limited to shoe design and production — as is evidenced by the recent establishment of I.L.E. (Innovation Lab ECCO) as a stand-alone future visioning studio and laboratory established in Amsterdam in 2015. I.L.E.'s international team of industrial designers, researchers, engineers, and futurists have been tasked with the research and development of new modes of product design and production, as well as a broader remit relating to the overall customer journey, retail experience and service proposition. Given this charter, it was natural for the I.L.E. team to undertake the creation of a dedicated retail lab. W-21 is an environment where a wide range of alternative retail techniques and standards are being tested for possible future integration within the ECCO retail network. It represents a place where the brand is empowered to succeed partly by being free to fail in keeping with the essential principle of trial-and-error that remains at the heart of R&D. In partnership with long-time collaborators, Energy Plan Creative, I.L.E. worked to develop W-21's inaugural narrative and merchandising strategies. Considerable effort went into narrowing the overall focus and anchoring each element of storytelling and Premium

leather

merged

with

merchandising directly to the brand's essential DNA; Premium raw

dynamic comfort is at the heart of

materials animated by dynamic comfort platforms with an eye

ECCO's design ethos. Innovation

to producing perpetual natural motion, or achieving 'shameless

in service of capturing a sense of

comfort'.

perpetual natural motion in footwear upholds these fundamental

TANNERY HACKS & A MONOCHROME VISION

characteristics. True innovation re-

Styles from the current ECCO ranges for both men and women

quires experimentation, trial and

have been carefully curated by the team with an emphasis on

error and the bravery that comes

the simple fusion of premium raw materials and dynamic comfort

with creating space where desig-

platforms. A bold commitment to focusing the overall presentation

ners can be 'free to fail', 'free to

took the form of limiting the entire assortment to monochrome

challenge' and 'free to evolve'. At

tones that would dramatise the rich, natural character of the

ECCO, this is about much more

leathers. Only styles in black, grey and white were displayed at

than shoes — it is the inspiration

the opening. To compliment and celebrate this premise, a series

behind W-21 — a new experimental

of limited-edition variations was created by the team under a

ECCO shoe store named after the

new Tannery Hack concept. The Tannery Hack concept reflects

shop's Amsterdam address, where

deeply held Danish design ethics characterised by modern utility

it is nestled within the city's unique

that is inspired by nature expressing truth to materials.

Nine

Streets

neighbourhood

Wolvenstraat #21.

A SHARED FOCUS ON ICONIC ECCO STYLES The latest delivery of Tannery Hacks at W-21 focuses on fresh new

Opened at the end of last year,

seasonal styles like the innovative ECCO KINHIN, ECCO TRACK

the new space was created as an

25 Anniversary Edition, ECCO SOFT 8 Luxury Sneaker and ECCO

experimental retail concept and

COOL 2.0 Athleisure Hybrid —Although this special program is

testing environment. Since ECCO's

available only at W-21, it directly reflects the same essential attributes as the mainline ECCO range.

ECCO'S NEW EXPERIMENTAL SHOE STORE IN AMSTERDAM. LOCATED AT WOLVENSTRAAT #21, AMSTERDAM, THE NETHERLANDS. —9—

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BLAST INTO THE PAST • An ECCO favourite from the 80’s — revamped for today — in the supplest and most luxurious ECCO leathers. These buttery soft leather uppers harmoniously meld together with an incredibly pliable, one-component sole. Kick up a retro look in this versatile fashion essential. Crafted to complement the natural curvatures of your foot, and to deliver a softer, lighter walking experience. The iconic ECCO SOFT 1 delivers dynamic comfort straight out of the box.

C L A S S I C P E R P E T U A L

T H E

R E T U R N

C O M F O R T

N A T U R A L

O F

M O T I O N

E C C O

S O F T

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AMMA ASANTE A COMPELLING VOICE IN CINEMA A film director who writes her own scripts, Amma Asante is one of the strongest and most compelling emerging voices in cinema. The British-born daughter of Ghanaian immigrants does not just make beautiful, exquisite movies; she is also pushing for change in Hollywood and across the global film industry.

FOR THE PURPOSES OF THIS JOURNAL WE EXPLOITED AN INFORMAL CONNECTION TO AMMA PROVIDED TO US BY HER HUSBAND SØREN KRAGH PEDERSEN, WHO IS PART OF THE TEAM HERE AT ECCO.

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Somewhere at the bottom of Amma Asante's handbag is a folded piece of paper that is at once treasured and half-forgotten. For months, Asante hasn't touched or opened it. There are many answers to the question of what inspires and guides Asante, a British-born writer and director of Ghanaian parentage, and one of the strongest voices in the film industry. And some of those answers are to be found in her handbag. Every director has their creative quirks, and one of Asante's is that before starting on a new project, she will write down the words she hopes will guide her through the film. Only when she has delivered the film will she unfold the paper and decide for herself whether she has allowed herself to be inspired by those thematic words. "When I'm making the film, I don't always remember the words I have chosen, but that's part of the point," says Asante, sitting on the sofa in a post-production editing suite in London, where she is working on her next release, 'Where Hands Touch'. Over the past four years, Asante has made three films, and, just like the two features that came before it, that new movie will continue her efforts to offer audiences a more â&#x20AC;&#x201D; diverse â&#x20AC;&#x201D; choice of stories.

"When I'm writing, I note down a few words that I want to come at me" As a writer, Asante exercises much greater overall creative than a director who may just pick up someone else's script. Origami, or some approximation of it, hasn't been this culturally significant for years. "When I'm writing, I note down a few words that I want to come at me that I want to subconsciously guide me. The whole idea is that it's a subconscious thing and I'm not putting pressure

"For every film, there have been two constants: courage and love" on myself," says Asante, who won a BAFTA for her first film, 'A Way of Life', and — befitting her rising status — is a new member of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences (the body that hosts the Oscars). Humanity, survival, courage and love were the words she chose for 'Where Hands Touch'. Whether she is listening to rap or classical as she writes, music also inspires Asante, while you can also detect the influence of British director Ken Loach in her work. And as the daughter of two immigrants, who herself grew up in south London, she regards herself as "bi-cultural" and "a chameleon" with a wide range of influences (adding to these, she also has a Danish husband). But her choice of words on those pieces of paper provides a fascinating insight. Though there is a different combination of words for every film, there have been two constants for every project: courage and love. If 'A Way of Life' was about a single mother in post-industrial Wales, love stories are at the centre of two of Asante's other feature films, and there's a teenage romance in the new one. Those last three projects are set against historical backdrops, but it would be misguided in the extreme to label them as 'period romances'. Asante's films aren't exactly the standard Hollywood boy-meets-girl offerings, and she has said she is "never going to tell a pure love story". What she did tell with 'Belle' — and quite beautifully — was the true story of Dido Elizabeth Belle, "a different sort of English rose", as the daughter of an enslaved African woman and a British Navy captain. 'A United Kingdom' explores the political and personal strife experienced by Seretse Khama, who would go on to become the first president of Botswana, and his wife Ruth Williams, a white British office clerk (also a true story). Set in Germany during World War Two, 'Where Hands Touch' features a romance between a bi-racial girl, one of the 'Rhineland Bastards', and a teenage German boy. — 15 —

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"My new film is set in 1944 and sees the Holocaust through the eyes of a bi-racial girl. She's one of the bi-racial children who were born in Germany after World War One and who were coming of age around World War Two. How did Hitler choose to respond to them and to deal with them? There is a love story in the film — in 1944, if you were Aryan, having a relationship with anyone who

"It is healthy for the film industry to give people options when they go to the cinema"

was regarded as non-Aryan was illegal", says Asante. "What my films tend to do is look at times in history when we haven't really acknowledged people of colour existing. We were as much a part of society as everyone else was, but we haven't heard about them because we weren't the people writing the history books. "I'm always interested in worlds where people of colour exist but don't necessarily always have other people of colour around them, so they have to form their own identity and then find a way of asserting that identity when there's no one around who looks like them. I'm interested in how that affects all of us, whether we're black, white, whatever colour we are. When you have to assert who you are when you're in an environment that doesn't necessarily acknowledge who you are, how does that work?" There's one central reason, Asante says, that stories such as these haven't previously been told on screen, and that's "the power of the history books". "It's about who has that power. These periods of history have always been out there. We've always seen period dramas, and we've always seen World War Two dramas, but they have always been told from a particular perspective. Often, that's the perspective that the director of the storyteller may come from. If the storyteller is white and male, and of a certain age, often the protagonist will be white, male and of a certain age". After a lifetime in the industry — she is a former child actor — Asante has recently noticed a welcome shift. "Now we're coming to a place where the movie industry realises that audiences need variety. That's healthy for the film industry to give people options when they get to the cinema. I think we had a strong turning point around 2014, when several movies came out in Hollywood that had protagonists who were of colour, and those films did really well in the cinemas. The money-men and money-women realise that these movies sell, and that audiences connect to them as well as they connect to any other movies. "There are fewer and fewer excuses as to why we shouldn't have these movies. They reflect society, they make good sense in terms of variety and they make good money. Diversity is just another way of saying variety. In the end, that's all it is. We turn it into this really heavy word, but all it means is that you're offering a variety of stories to the cinema-goer." — 17 —

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We have looked into how the global trend materialises in everyday life.

GOING GREEN in SEVENTEEN

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PHOTO: LAURA L.P./HDG PHOTOGRAPHY

URBAN FOOD

FROM FARM TO TABLE Noma closes and reopens as an urban farm

RENE REDZEPI AT THE SITE OF THE NEW NOMA, JUST OUTSIDE THE BORDER OF COPENHAGEN'S CHRISTIANIA NEIGHBOURHOOD IN DENMARK. PHOTO: LAERKE POSSELT

Noma, an abbreviation of the words for 'Nordic food', voted the

The new restaurant's menu will change with the seasons, with

world's number one restaurant by Britain's Restaurant Magazine

themes based on the forest in the fall, the sea in the winter and

in 2010, 2011 and 2012, will reinvent itself in terms of urban

on vegetables — grown in its own urban garden — during spring

gardening when it reopens around mid-2017 in what's currently

and summer.

a graffiti-covered, derelict former navy building on the border of Christiania — the 'alternative' state in the heart of Copenhagen.

Since the beginning, noma has primarily used local products to emphasise its Nordic focus, although it's strayed far beyond

Noma was opened in 2003, led by chef and co-owner René

pickled herring, meatballs and other traditional regional dishes.

Redzepi. The restaurant has two Michelin stars and wants to

Guests book tables months in advance to taste deep-fried moss,

challenge itself further and explore new culinary territory. Therefore,

edible flowers, live ants and other noma specialities. When the

the restaurant now sets out on a new urban gardening adventure.

new restaurant opens, expect it to be even harder to nab a

Redzepi and co-owner Claus Meyer want to transform the restau-

table, although real urban gardening enthusiasts can be offered

rant into an urban farm with a greenhouse on the roof and fresh,

a crumb of comfort: Wait three years! That's when the soil on the

soil-covered grounds; part of the farm will be floating.

farm will be at its best — and the fruit and vegetables at their tastiest, according to urban gardening philosophy.

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PHOTO: CORY BEN BROWN

URBAN GARDENING

GARDENING

In the past, the concept of gardening and farming would bring to mind images of idyllic countryside filled with rows of vegetables. But the times are changing. More and more of local food production takes place in our urban centres. In fact, according to

GLOBAL GRASSROOTS MOVEMENT

the U.S. Department of Agriculture, about 15% of the world's food

IMMERSES US IN GREENERY

supply is now grown in urban centres. This trend is set to increase

As more people turn into city dwellers, urban areas are becoming more lush, with urban farms popping up as backyard plots, indoor hanging gardens, rooftop kitchen gardens and the like. Eating local is the new thing.

as the world's population is expected to become even more of an urban-dwelling one. Tiny backyard plots, community gardening in city parks, guerrilla gardening on vacant lots, indoor hanging gardens, rooftop growing, vertical gardens and more: urban farming is here to stay.

ØSTERGRO — THE FIRST ROOFTOP FARM IN DENMARK ØsterGro is an urban farming example turning Copenhagen roofs into lush urban agriculture. A 600-m2 organic rooftop garden, on the roof of an old car auction comprising 110 tonnes of soil spread over neat raised beds. Based on organic farming principles, ØsterGro supplies 40 members of the rooftop farm with eggs, vegetables and even fresh honey when in season. You don't have to be a member to enjoy the rooftop farm — you can visit, book a workshop or tour, have dinner in the eatery Gro Spiseri or join as a volunteer.

oestergro.dk

URBAN DESIGN

DESIGN ARCHITECTURE GOES GREEN For the past few years, we've even noted the importance of flora and foliage in design and interior settings. Individuals choose glazed atriums, walls covered in flowers and indoor courtyards filled with trees.

façades. We found a great recent example in Milan, Italy, where architecture company Boeri Studio. owned by architect Stefano Boeri, came up with the concept of Bosco Verticale or 'Vertical Forest', a way to combine high-density residential development with tree planting in city centres. Two towers, measuring 80 and 112 metres, are a biological habitat for 900 trees planted on balconies on all four sides of the towers, accompanied by 5,000 shrubs and 11,000 floral plants. The architecture company claim these will

Several design companies have ventured into home gardening,

absorb dust in the air, helping to depollute the city. The diverse

creating small indoor tabletop greenhouses. At the moment, all

vegetation will provide urban habitats for birds and insects, as well

major design magazines feature Atelier 2+ and designers Worapong

as creating a humid micro-climate that produces oxygen whilst

Manupipatpong and Ada Chirakranont and their Greenhouse mini

shading residences from harsh sunlight.

garden, originally launched for the Wallpaper design magazine's 'Handmade Exhibition'. For the dedicated gardener, Oslo design

As the grand green finale, colour company Pantone deserves

studio Anderssen & Voll has even created a set of tools that have

an honourable mention, as their colour experts have announced

been adapted for indoor use. Swedish furniture supplier IKEA has

Pantone's Colour of the Year 2017 to be — any guesses? Greenery.

also launched a new indoor gardening product. The product

To celebrate the colour and be part of the green chorus, Pantone

brings home hydroponics to a larger market, allowing people to

has launched a joint project with Airbnb to fill a London home

grow their own plants and vegetables inside, without soil or sunlight.

with planting and projects that match its verdant 2017 colour of the year. A dining room greenhouse, a bedroom with mown

Architects increasingly unveil plans for vertical forests in city cen-

lawn flooring and a bathroom filled with tropical plants all merge

tres. Houses covered with trees, cascading plants and shrubs pro-

to convey the theme of Greenery. The urban gardening-themed

vide sustainable housing and office space in urban areas, some

apartment can be booked on Airbnb.

even capable of producing oxygen through their plant-covered

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PHOTO: STEFANO BOERI

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R E P U T A T I O N

B U I L T

O U T D O O R

P E R P E T U A L

O N

Q U A R T E R - C E N T U R Y

O F

P E R F O R M A N C E

N A T U R A L

M O T I O N

I N S P I R E D B Y T H E P A S T , R E - E N G I N E E R E D F O R T H E F U T U R E When our original ECCO TRACK was launched 25 years ago,

recent projects like the ØsterGro rooftop farm. With this year's intro-

it represented a gold standard for versatile multi-use outdoor

duction of the ECCO TRACK 25 Anniversary Edition, we combine the

performance. A GORE-TEX® lined moccasin-style Oxford trekker

tried and tested performance of the original with our current state-

crafted from p remium waxed nubuck leather, the ECCO TRACK

of-the-art FLUIDFORM™ direct injection outsole technology, along

quickly established itself as a cornerstone for the rugged outdoor/

with an updated set of premium weather-resistant leathers s pecially

work/walk crossover category emerging in the 1990s and foresha

developed in our own tanneries. The ECCO TRACK 25 also features

dowing the hybridised vision of outdoor spaces manifested in more

an exclusive embossed insignia commemorating its silver jubilee.

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A D A P T S T O T H E I N D I V I D U A L S H A P E O F Y O U R F O O T

C O R K S P H E R E â&#x201E;¢ S U S P E N D E D

P E R P E T U A L

N A T U R A L

F O O T B E D

M O T I O N

B Y

E C C O

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"There is a long, rich history of shoemakers embracing cork"

THE TREE

THAT ALWAYS GROWS BACK Journey into the cork oak to discover the remarkable powers of a

cushioning material that can absorb shock — think of it as nature's

tree that can survive having its bark stripped off.

own version of bubble wrap. Crush cork under intense pressure and it will regain most of its form within 24 hours. Flexible and not

Take an axe to a cork oak tree, slicing off the bark to expose the

vulnerable to rot or insects, it can also be moulded into almost any

reddish, almost raw-looking trunk beneath; there are few more

shape of your choosing.

startling ways of illustrating the wit, imagination and creative flair For thousands of years, man has continued to discover new and

of Mother Nature.

ever more inventive uses for the bark of the cork oak tree. Cork You might think of cork as an everyday material. The truth is, it

wine stoppers have been found in tombs dating back to ancient

is nothing less than extraordinary, a marvel of the natural world.

Egypt, while the ancient Greeks and Romans put it to use as floats

What makes it all the more astonishing is the way in which it is har-

on fishing nets, in life jackets for fishermen, and in building houses

vested. No trees are felled in bringing you your wine stopper, your

that could be insulated from both hot summers and cold winters.

cushioned flooring or any other cork product.

Cork flooring is soft to tread on, while also muffling footsteps and other noises. If there is one usage that attracts controversy and

Shear the bark off almost any other tree and you would almost

negative comment it is in baseball — any batter in Major League

certainly kill it. The cork oak tree, however, is different — it not only

Baseball who fills his bat with cork, making it lighter and enabling

survives being stripped back, but fully regenerates over the next

him to swing faster at the pitch, is acting illegally.

nine years, ready to be harvested once more. In forests clustered around the western Mediterranean, in Europe and North Africa,

Even now, most cork ends up as bottle stoppers, linking the

and also on the Iberian Peninsula, each of the cork oak trees

wine drinkers of today with those who sipped in the shadow of

can be harvested again and again over a productive lifespan of

the pyramids. Parallel to that backstory is a long, rich history of

around 150 years. However raw and sore the trunk looks at first,

shoemakers embracing cork, which began thousands of years

removing the bark from a Quercus suber, to give the tree its Latin

ago with the crafting of sandals and which continues now with a

name, is gentle on the environment (just so long as the foresters

selection of footwear that incorporates the material.

know what they are doing with that blade). Above all the other advantages that come from using a cork For all their efforts in the laboratory, no scientist has ever been able

product, there is that other additional benefit. Whether you're

to fully replicate cork's properties with a man-made material. With

pouring wine from a bottle with a cork stopper, sitting in a house

it's honeycomb-like structure, cork is full of empty cells, so it is light-

insulated by the cork, or wearing shoes that include the material,

weight and has only about a quarter of the density of water, which

you can be sure that the harvested tree is regenerating itself. Slowly,

means it floats.

quietly, gloriously, the cork oak is the tree that always grows back.

As well as providing insulation against warmth and noise, and being fire-retardant — helpful during forest fires, cork is a soft and — 29 —

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M E D I T A T I O N F O R Y O U R F E E T ECCO KINHIN offers a unique feature with a cork inlay sole that conforms to the shape of your foot. Beneath the clean silhouette, minimalist design and gorgeous

Sleek, with a clean silhouette and minimalist Danish design, and

leathers of the ECCO KINHIN sneaker is a cork latex inlay sole. By

with uppers crafted from gorgeous, naturally milled, HESTIA Leathers

conforming to the shape of your foot, the cork offers outstanding

in gentle tones, the ECCO KINHIN is a beautifully understated shoe.

comfort while also supporting a more natural walking motion.

So easy on the eye, the ECCO KINHIN is also gentle on the foot, as beneath those elegant uppers is the cork inlay sole, smothered in

In Buddhism, 'Kinhin' means 'walking meditation' or 'the meditation

premium leather. By conforming to the shape of your foot, the light-

of the feet'. Strolling in your ECCO KINHIN, there will doubtless be

weight sole offers a close fit and exquisite comfort, while allowing

moments of quiet contemplation during which you will find yourself

for a more natural walking motion. The inlay sole also naturally

reflecting on the joys and wonders of your sneakers with cork-latex

wicks away moisture to help keep the foot dry and content in what

inlay soles.

amounts to its own climate zone inside the sneaker. As with all ECCO design, form follows function, and comfort is enhanced by the softness and flexibility that comes from the sneaker's cupsole construction using our innovative FLUIDFORMâ&#x201E;˘ Technology. That direct-injected sole, made up of a PU midsole and a TPU outsole, also adds to the iconic aesthetics of this sneaker, which is available as both a men's or ladies' shoe.

ECCO KINHIN (431013-50708) — 31 —

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 017

B&O PLAY discovered the recipe for winning the young-at-heart consumer who opts for sound on the go rather than music at home.

CONCEPTUAL DESIGN THINKING — 33 —

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 017

JAKOB KRISTOFFERSEN, CONCEPT & DESIGN MANAGER, B&O PLAY

B&O PLAY — A GROWN-UP AUDIO

Jakob Kristoffersen is a sublime example of the B&O PLAY breed. For

BRAND FOR THE SMARTPHONE GENERATION

two years, he lived only at hotels, as he was commuting between

We met young, says B&O PLAY's Concept & Design Manager, who

a number of B&O and partner offices. "I did not have a home and

has been running just as fast as the 5-year-old B&O PLAY, founded in

literally played music only when travelling", says Jakob Kristoffersen,

2012 as the toddler company to world-renowned Bang & Olufsen.

who almost symbolically had just returned from Singapore a mere

Only 29 years old, but as experienced — and fast — as the brand

two hours before the interview.

he is responsible for in terms of design. In only five years, B&O PLAY, today the world's leading lifestyle audio brand for young, urban

CONCEPTUAL DESIGN

creatives, has won the hearts of an entire generation opting for

"We design experiences according to how young urbans think,

sound on the go rather than music at home. It has been proved

work, play and live. They are excited about innovation and they

that a fusion of mother company Bang & Olufsen — including 'her'

constantly challenge the world. My job revolves around under-

90 years of design excellence, craftsmanship, product innovation

standing these people, addressing their needs, formulating ideas

and amazing acoustics — and her son's entrepreneurial spirit, was

and experiences to answer their challenges. I hire designers and

the perfect extension to the family.

work with the acoustics department at our headquarters in Struer in northern Denmark to transform these ideas and experiences into

WE ARE IN THE BUSINESS OF GIVING GOOSEBUMPS

reality — through beautiful design", Jakob explains as he sits in front

When asked about its success, Jacob Kristoffersen, who has been

of his new creation, the Beolit 17.

involved from the very beginning, says that design experience is the main criterion. "We don't just make headphones, we don't just

"Our approach to design is exactly what sets us apart in the

design speakers, and we are not simply in the business of electronics.

industry. We dream about experiences and conceptual ideas —

We are in the business of giving goosebumps". The young Dane

not objects", Kristoffersen continues. Jakob points at his Beolit 17,

studied Global Business Engineering & Innovation Management at

surrounded by lots of leather patches in different shades featuring

Aalborg University in Denmark, and he also holds a Master's degree

a multitude of finishes. "Let me explain how we worked with the

in Business Administration and Design Management from Harvard

Beolit 17 speaker. We showcased what it would be like to have a

University. Throughout his studies, Jakob established and sold no

'true moveable music companion'. This conceptual idea took all

fewer than two small app companies. Jakob also worked as a

the decisions throughout the design process. A travelling speaker

consultant and served as a board member. A true sprinter!

must be durable and able to naturally withstand dents and scratches, hence the choice of aluminium for the largest surface

"We have always stood out and defined our own path. Five years

of the speaker. It must be small enough to be easily picked up

ago, we saw a new class of urban citizens emerging in modern

and taken everywhere, yet acoustically powerful enough to host

global cities. They enjoy music in a different way. They listen to

a small party or be taken from room to room".

music on the go and less at home, unlike their parents' generation, who enjoyed sound and vision at home. Freedom for the young

Thus, the B&O PLAY Beolit 17 delivers a massive musical punch, in

urban generation is driven by the invention of smartphones and

fact, it is the best Bluetooth speaker on the market and provides

widespread accessibility of internet streaming services."

new intelligent features via the Beoplay App.

B&O PLAY AND ECCO LEATHER HAVE BEEN WORKING TOGETHER TO PRODUCE THE TAILOR-MADE STRAPS FOR THE BEOLIT 17.

— 35 —

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 017

SCANDINAVIAN DESIGN TRADITIONS The Beolit 17 is designed by award-winning Cecilie Manz, and the details speak the same design language as the Beolit 12 (2012) and the Beolit 15 (2015), showcasing the designer's Scandinavian design traditions. The top and bottom of the Beolit 17 are made of robust polymer that can withstand the rigours of everyday life, and with up to 24 hours of portable performance, you can easily take the speaker with you anywhere. The grill wrapped around the speaker is made of anodised pearl-blasted aluminium, the DNA material behind B&O, staying true to the mother genes. On top of the Beolit 17 speaker is a non-slip and scratchsafe tray where you can safely place your smartphone. Beolit 17 has a new intelligent onetouch connect button that can be customised via the Beoplay App for alarm settings, etc. The handle, designed for portability, is crafted from premium grain leather. "When we chose suppliers, such as for the leather handle, we selected after assessing a number of criteria. In terms of leather, we work with ECCO Leather, as ECCO is the only supplier that delivers on experience. When designing the handle, we wanted it to age with grace over time. ECCO offered a comprehensive leather collection in an array of colours and an amazing multitude of finishes", Kristoffersen explains. "ECCO is able to deliver in large quantities and is present in China with a highly professional and fully ECCO-owned leather tannery close to our own production facilities. Last but not least, ECCO is Danish and has a leather workshop where we can work with leather experts and thus tailor-make our own leather straps for the Beolit 17".

MUSIC AS A PIECE OF FURNITURE Another good example of experience design is the Beoplay A9, a speaker that looks a bit like a flying saucer. Wooden feet support a large round textile-covered disc. The A9 stands out from the crowd and challenges the way in which we think of speakers. "Today, the younger generation buys sound and not huge bulky speakers. They want sound to play the leading role, and the part that is visible should blend in like a piece of design furniture", Kristoffersen explains. "Therefore, with the development of the Beoplay A9 we created the experience of placing a new piece of furniture in people's homes rather than just a new speaker". It's late in the afternoon, and Jakob Kristoffersen needs a break before he resumes his marathon for PLAY â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the young, urban B&O brand with the substance, quality and luxury of the mother company Bang & Olufsen.

B&O PLAY's Beolit 17 is the latest addition to the iconic Beolit speaker series launched in 1939. It has been redesigned and is the best Bluetooth speaker on the market. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 37 â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 017

ECCO LEATHER x THE SHOE SURGEON For the second addition of Decon/Recon Los Angeles, a highly unique series of bespoke shoe- & trainer-making workshops, ECCO Leather joined forces with the Shoe Surgeon.

THE SHOE SURGEON [AKA DOMINIC CHAMBRONE]

Along with over 145K other followers, the design team at ECCO

The Shoe Surgeon joined other design world firebrands at the 2016

Leather discovered the Shoe Surgeon [aka Dominic Chambrone]

edition of ECCO Leather's international HOT SHOP event, becoming

on Instagram, where his inspiring projects have become a dynamic

an instant hero within the tannery's unique Open Circle creative

source of creative inspiration for anyone passionate about leather

process. But once was not enough, and the ECCO Leather team

and 'sneaker' culture.

couldn't wait for the opportunity to work together again.

It took Chambrone over 15 years to learn what he knows now, with

For the L.A. edition of Decon/Recon, ECCO Leather produced

only little information available and mostly by trial and error. He

exclusive leather qualities from both its INNOVATIONS range and

started offering these 5-day intensive classes — they are extremely

its world-renowned premium range. Highlights include; SOULAGE,

limited and sell out instantly — teaching unique craftsmanship that

HEXA HIVE, ASTRA, CHAMELEON, LAVA, RAFFIA and DRAGO, all of

took him many years to learn on his own. He plans to roll out the

which were crafted into one-of-a-kind premium sneakers live

Decon/Recon concept in the nearby future, organising his exclu-

during the Decon/Recon event.

sive classes all over the world. His goal is to boost makers and production in the USA, as well as to create more jobs within this cutting-edge discipline.

— 39 —

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 017

T R A D I T I O N P E R P E T U A L

I N N O V A T I O N

N A T U R A L

M O T I O N

STEP INTO PREMIUM CRAFTSMANSHIP — REENGINEERED Time-honoured traditions join forces with cutting edge technologies to offer a unique style and unprecedented comfort. Inspired by an ECCO classic from the early 80’s, this moccasin-trainer hybrid has a natural motion shaped sole and inlay to ensure natural movement of the foot through each step. In addition, a FLEXGROOVE™ cut-through pattern allows for increased flex and grip, and the sleek, contemporary outsole — formed with ECCOs exclusive FLUIDFORM™ Technology — produces high degrees of dynamic rebound. Crafted for their unique characteristics, the specially innovated ECCO leathers highlight the detailed, fine workmanship of the moccasin-style upper.

ECCO CROSS X (431514-51052)

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 017

MODEL IS WEARING: ECCO SHAPE 55 (267733-50811) AND ECCO SP 2 MEDIUM DOCTOR'S BAG (9104924-90633)

UP SHAPE

WHATEVER THE SIZE OF YOUR HEEL, EVERY SHOE IN ECCO'S SHAPE COLLECTION

FOR AUTUMN/WINTER 2017 OFFERS STYLE AND SUMPTUOUS, ALL-DAY COMFORT

Wearing heels, killer or otherwise, no longer means suffering for

time, and to a stunning effect. And this new collection is notable

fashion, or your feet longing for that moment when you kick off

for its timeless aesthetic, including our take on iconic shoes such as

your shoes at the end of the night.

the pump, the Derby-style brogue and the riding boot.

Thanks to the elegance and pioneering technology of ECCO's

A CLASSIC LOOK THAT NEVER FALLS OUT OF FASHION

SHAPE collection for Autumn/Winter 2017, also crushed under our

However you feel about horses — perhaps you don't care much

heel is the idea that women somehow have to choose between

for riding or have never even spent a moment in the saddle —

comfort and scene-stealing style. With the collection incorporating

there can be no denying that the equestrian world has brought

a number of our innovations — including an anatomical shank with

plenty of style to women's shoes. For this collection, we have taken

soft polyurethane (PU) on both sides, a direct-injected PU sole and

inspiration not only from a Chelsea boot, but also from a riding

a moulded anatomical footbed — our heeled shoes deliver out-

boot. The silhouette of that knee-high style is as appealing as ever,

standing comfort and support. In an ECCO SHAPE shoe, you'll be

and our re-imagining can be seen in the ECCO SHAPE 55 with its

turning heads rather than your own ankles.

simple detailing. Just touch the uppers to appreciate the softness and lightness of the premium leathers.

But that technology hasn't meant sacrificing our silhouettes or style. It was in 2016 that we launched an inaugural SHAPE range after using some of our technologies on heeled shoes for the first

— 43 —

See opposite page

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 017

ECCO SHAPE 55 CHALET PLATFORM (272513-01034)

STAYING CHIC AS WINTER CLOSES IN

SHAPE 55 CHALET PLATFORM, we have a heeled shoe that will do

If staying chic and warm during the autumn and winter is an art

just that. To create this contemporary winter boot, beautiful design

form, it starts with the shoes. Protecting yourself against the cold, as

has been married with robust and innovative technology to keep

well as coping with rain, sleet or snow underfoot, should never mean

your foot toasty, dry and incredibly comfortable. For outstanding

sacrificing any of your style during the autumn and winter months.

protection, the boot is made with ECCO's HYDROMAXÂŽ leathers,

A stunning winter boot that can cope with any rain-splashed

which are highly water-resistant, and it also has sealed seams.

or snow-dusted street is a style essential that makes a fashion

A textile lining offers warmth, and a rubber forepart enhances grip.

statement as you stroll around the city. And now, with the ECCO

— 45 —

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 017

MODEL IS WEARING: ECCO SHAPE 75 POINTY (269753-50796) AND ECCO SCULPTURED SMALL CLUTCH (9105069-90000)

STYLE FROM BOARDROOM TO BAR While Brits and Americans can't quite agree on what this style is called — in New York this is a pump, and in London it's a court shoe — there is sure to be universal adoration on both sides of the Atlantic for the sleek, classically shaped design of the ECCO SHAPE 75 POINTY. Expect a similar reaction from style-conscious women around the world for a black and silver shoe with uppers hand-crafted from wonderfully rich leathers, a 75-mm leather-wrapped heel and an adjustable buckle, adding detail. Here is a shoe that can be worn to the boardroom, a restaurant or a cocktail bar. And perhaps even all three on the same day, as this shoe will appeal to those with busy diaries. Walking in heels should always be a pleasure, never a hardship for the foot, with the technologies making this an extravagantly comfortable shoe.

ECCO SHAPE M 15 (272043-53859)

ADDING FEMININE TOUCHES TO A MASCULINE BROGUE

be dressed up or down for the smartest or most casual of settings.

For around 150 years, the Derby-style brogue has been thought

But there's no reason why such a shoe should only be available

of as a classically masculine shoe. Some shoe historians suggest

to stylish men. Inspired by the boyfriend trend, we have added

that it dates back to Edward Smith-Stanley, the 14th Earl of Derby

some feminine touches to a Derby, including a low, 15-mm heel,

and three-time Prime Minister, who had his bootmaker fashion a

to create the ECCO SHAPE M 15. Perforation on the soft-squared

new shoe for him in the 1860s. Its subsequent popularity can be

toe provides added detail to the premium leathers with their rich,

easily explained by the Derby's comfort and versatility — it can

burnished finish.

— 47 —

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 017

ECCO SCULPTURED CROSSBODY (9105088-90629) AND ECCO SHAPE 75 (268663-51055)

A RETRO TWIST Nothing says vintage quite like the addition of patchwork leathers to your uppers. Take the ECCO SHAPE 75, with its patchwork putting a retro twist on a camel boot with its simple Scandinavian design, timeless silhouette, and raw leather-wrapped 75-mm heel. The ultimate in everyday boots, it does not ask for attention so much as command it. Whether you choose to dress it up or down, you can rest assured of this: it will look the part.

ECCO SHAPE 55 PLATEAU (268053-52999)

SUBTLE SEASONAL UPDATE The ECCO SHAPE 55 Plateau combines unparalleled comfort with feminine flair to create an essential shoe-boot for autumn. The rich Bordeaux colourway provides a subtle seasonal update, whilst the plateau shape is both bold and sophisticated. With a moulded anatomical footbed and a premium sock lining, plus other impeccable design details such as the stretch upper, premium leathers and a 55-mm, leather-wrapped heel. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 49 â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 017

IT'S ALL IN THE DETAIL How Jonas Olsson, the lead designer for ECCO's Spring/Summer 2018 belt collection, found inspiration in our archives.

JONAS OLSSON, LEAD DESIGNER, ECCO ACCESSORIES

Good design never loses its allure and thus, almost half a century

Within moments of striking up a conversation with Olsson about his

after we first launched the shoe, one of the icons of the 1970s

work, you can hear how much he adores designing leather goods,

continues to inform and influence ECCO's creatives. But there's a

a material he describes as being "almost alive". The design process

twist here â&#x20AC;&#x201D; our classic shoe, the ECCO JOKE, has not just been

took the Swede to Italy, where he sourced "fantastic" leather from

shaping the creation of modern footwear, but also serving as a

specialist belt tanneries.

muse for our belt designers. The high quality of the vegetable-tanned leathers ensures that Casting around for inspiration for ECCO's Spring/Summer 2018

they will retain their natural grain. "First of all, I love leather, as

belt collection, lead designer Jonas Olsson spent some time in

there are almost endless possibilities of what you can do with it,

our museum, located at our headquarters in the Danish country-

including all the different colours and finishes", says Olsson. The

side. His interest piqued, Olsson rummaged around the archives,

casual belt edges in this collection are waxed using the traditional

examining some of the materials and techniques that have shaped

method, sealed and beautifully burnished. Just like the stitching

our company's rich history. Going deeper still with his research, he

that celebrates the ECCO JOKE, many of those finishes are done

discussed that heritage with a shoe designer who had worked for

by hand. There is also a timeless quality to the colour concepts,

ECCO for over 40 years. As a result, there is a touch of 1970s retro in

complementing ECCO's shoes.

our new collection. In homage to the ECCO JOKE, and also more generally to our traditions of craftsmanship and design, the more

One innovative feature of this collection is the new screw system

casual belts have box-stitch detailing that references the stitching

that Olsson and his team have designed, which allows the wearer

on that shoe.

to easily adjust a belt, whether that to shorten or reverse it. "We have reversible belts with two different colours. So one side might

"By putting that stitching and history in front of our customers'

be blue and the other side might be black â&#x20AC;&#x201D; that gives you the

eyes, we're showing people that we still have the same DNA in

option of quickly and easily updating your look, even if you are

our products, and I think they like that link to our heritage", says

on-the-go".

Olsson. "In my mind, it's important to remind people that we have over 50 years of heritage. And while we are keeping a link to the

Along with a wristwatch or a ring, a formal belt can be viewed as

past, we're also introducing innovative design elements. It's good

men's jewellery, says Olsson. "And the more formal you go with the

to have that balance as we develop and create new ideas for

belt, the more important the design of the buckle. All of our buckles

the future".

are designed from scratch and they are unique to ECCO", says Olsson. A non-scratch finish is applied to maintain each buckle's

With more than 10 years' personal experience of designing leather

quality. "With formal belts now, the buckles are more discreet and

products, three of which have been with ECCO, this graduate

less 'blingy'. The smooth nappa leather on a formal belt has an

of the Nordic Design School in Sweden is of the view that hand-

even, sleek finish and texture, and over time it is always going to

stitched detailing adds considerable value to a belt. "More and

look more or less the same. With more casual belts, we use a bull

more products on the market are made by machines, and I think

leather that is naturally oily and kept in its purest state. But the more

people like to know that the craftsman is still around and that some

you wear a casual belt, the more character it will gain".

products are still made by hand".

ECCO ELIAS CASUAL BELT (910519-90099) AND ECCO ELIAS CASUAL BELT (910519-90655)

"As well as keeping a link to the past, we're also introducing innovative design elements"

LEAD DESIGNER, ECCO ACCESSORIES

— 51 —

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 017

UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH AN UNUSUAL MEMBER OF THE ECCO TEAM

A DOCTOR of SCIENCE

As a doctor of science, trained in drug development and synthesis

start to re-evaluate different areas", he says. As an example, he

and with a seemingly clear path towards pharmaceuticals at the

cites the scrap leather in tanneries and shoe factories: "How can

start of his career, at first glance Thomas Gøgsig may seem like an

we do something productive with this premium material? How can

unusual member of the ECCO team. However, upon closer analysis,

we somehow transform it into another material of equal value? Not

this relationship makes perfect sense. Gøgsig joined ECCO Leather

just use our resources but keep our resources in a closed system —

in the Netherlands in 2012 as a chemical engineer. According to him,

that would be the best".

"It was quite a natural step because, at the end of the day, leather-making has a lot to do with chemistry". However, that's not

THE WHOLE IS GREATER THAN THE SUM OF ITS PARTS

the only reason this was a logical pairing, as ECCO is practically

A great atmosphere and a go-getter boldness, coupled with

part of Gøgsig's DNA. He is a third-generation ECCO employee

financial security, control over the entire production chain, an

— since 1963, both his grandparents were there to help grow the

entrepreneurial spirit, a high level of passion from employees and

enterprising shoe company, and both his parents still work for

a strong network — this is what Gøgsig sees as a potent cocktail

ECCO today. Looking at Gøgsig's role and how it has evolved,

for innovation. "This combination gives ECCO a lot of possibilities

anyone would agree that, yes, this match makes perfect sense,

when it comes to new things and new ways of thinking", he says.

even beyond family heritage and the basis for leather-making.

He also underlines the importance of relying on the company's various links. ECCO has what Gøgsig refers to as "an innovation

Pushing the boundaries and driven by an insatiable appetite for

line process", in which the roles of different departments come

progress, ECCO feels most natural moving forward. To be able to

into play to bring a single idea to fruition. First of all: "It's not about

keep the pace, it relies on people like Thomas Gøgsig. As Head

some areas having ownership of creating ideas because every-

of Applied Research at ECCO, Gøgsig describes his position and

body at ECCO is allowed and even encouraged to do that",

what motivates him: "My job is to ask questions and challenge

he says, continuing to explain that ideas pop up from different

the status quo", "It's not exactly about predicting the future and

areas and then the motion is set forward to transform them into

looking into a crystal ball. It's about being proactive about what is

something valuable. He describes Innovation Lab ECCO as the

to come. It's about paying attention and taking action on what is

experimental department and that Applied Research ECCO

already going on. Asking questions such as: Can we do it better?

is the department that works with the feasibility of such experiments

Can we utilise insights or technologies from other areas? Can we

— making them come to life. Gøgsig says there is a lot of synergising

be more creative in the way we do things? Not just in a scientific

with ECCO's internal networks: "That means that we have bridges

way, but also from a more fundamental perspective". He notes

between all of the different ECCO departments and divisions —

that the things we take for granted are precisely the things that

ECCO Leather, Innovation Lab, Golf Lab, Concept Lab, Design

he would like to question and be a more provocative about. From

Lab, and Kid's Lab for sure. Moreover, we're heavily reliant on our

the way a shoe is stitched together and the process in which the

production teams and Research and Development teams, in both

leather is tanned, to the materials used to comprise the sole —

shoes and leathers. This collaboration is where we're really able

these are just some of the topics Gøgsig and his team may raise

to implement new things", he explains. According to Gøgsig, it's

questions about. "The point is to challenge a little bit and simply

not only the internal network that his team relies on, but external

THOMAS GØGSIG HEAD OF APPLIED RESEARCH, ECCO BREDEBRO, DENMARK

— 53 —

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 017

ones too — not limited to suppliers and existing partners, but also

the soles to the uppers, as is commonly done. Instead, ECCO

research institutes and other big brands. Gøgsig explains: "We tap

use their own unique FLUIDFORM™ technology. FLUIDFORM is the

into their development teams, research facilities and so on. We

injection of molten PU material directly into the bottom half of

work directly with their product developers, technical staff and

the upper, which is wrapped securely around ECCO's specially

scientists". With one company, for example, they work together

developed, anatomically shaped last (the mould upon which a

with a pool of 500 scientists directly. Of course, that leverages our

shoe is constructed). This technique does two things: it instantly

team by magnitudes, and boosts our capabilities".

bonds the sole to the upper, increasing durability and reducing

According to Gøgsig, working with their external networks is quite

the risk of separation, and It also allows the formed sole to take on

powerful. For example, ECCO has close partnerships with select

every single curve and contour of the foot, which ensures comfort.

luxury brands. When ECCO develops a new leather, they ship it

"The 3-D structure of our lasts is the best average of the human foot

straight to the company, whereby ECCO receives direct feedback

and that is what we translate into a product", says Gøgsig. Simply

and can make any necessary changes to perfect it so that the

put, the shoe is inherently shaped for the foot.

leather can be featured in the brand's range. These kinds of valuable relationships allow ECCO to benchmark and reference

ECCO relies not only on the biology of the human form to craft its

all of the time. He adds: "This is one way in which we work together

designs but, also on the biology of the materials that is used for

with our partners and, of course, also develop and mature new

its products. According to Gøgsig, leather is a very durable and

technologies".

natural material: "Most of it is collagen, and that's synthesised by nature. The only thing we do is stabilise it to maintain its natural

PIONEERING AND SETTING STANDARDS

characteristics. In the leather-making process, we rely greatly on

ECCO is possibly the only major shoe brand in control of two

the organic properties of the skin".

industries: leather and shoes. "We can set standards for these two very connected industries; very few others can do that",

A DOCTOR WITH SHARED VALUES

says Gøgsig. According to him, people often forget that leather

"The way that we work here in Applied Research is deeply rooted in

and shoe are so related. However, shoemakers are responsible

ECCO's heritage — in [founder] Karl Toosbuy's ways, thoughts and

for over 50% of all leather consumption: "That's quite a number

visions", says Gøgsig. Applied Research takes inspiration from the

when you think about it", he says. As ECCO has mastered both of

words of the late Toosbuy: "Whatever we are doing — our hearts

these industries, they are able to mutually control the quality levels.

must be in it. The ECCO culture is a dynamic process of tradition,

ECCO tanneries ensure that they're supplying leathers of the best

development and innovation".

possible quality, so that ECCO is assured that their end products are made of the finest raw materials and ultimately showcase their

Gøgsig believes that it takes passion to continually advance and

tanneries' innovative leathers. He adds: "We can only accomplish

deliver excellence. "If you're not passionate about the projects

this by owning the entire value chain".

you're driving, if you're not passionate about challenging the status quo or constantly questioning the way we do things, if you're not

INSPIRED BY NATURE

excited about how leathers are being produced or how shoes are

"We acknowledge and embrace the anatomy of the human

being stitched, then you'll never be able to ask the right questions".

being", says Gøgsig. ECCO is adamant about everything

He continues: "You need to be deeply embedded in each of those

beginning with the foot. He says they don't try to squeeze a foot

areas to be able to progress".

into a specific design, but rather design the shoe around the organic shape and natural movement of the foot. He continues:

A close look at Dr. Thomas Gøgsig, his approach to his work and

"At the end of the day, it's all about the utmost quality and comfort

the part he plays within ECCO reveals that this relationship, like that

for our customers". He explains that ECCO doesn't glue or cement

of the sole bonded to the upper, is a natural fit.

STRONG COLLABORATIONS

NOT TRADITIONAL SHOEMAKERS

TINA SEIRUP NIELSEN

SAM LINDERS

OPERATIONAL MANAGER,

JR. DESIGNER, ECCO LEATHER,

ECCO CONCEPT LAB, TØNDER, DENMARK

DONGEN, THE NETHERLANDS

When being interviewed for a job at ECCO, Tina was told that she

26-year-old Sam Linders is one of the younger members of the ECCO

might be overqualified for the position. "For me, the most important

family. As a student of the famous Design Academy Eindhoven,

thing was that I liked the people who wanted to hire me. It speaks

she was introduced to ECCO when fellow students collaborated

volumes when so many people celebrate anniversaries", says Tina,

with the company. "I saw what they've done with ECCO Leather

who herself celebrated 10 years at ECCO in 2016.

and thought it was very fascinating", she says.

During her first years, Tina travelled a lot and learned about

Sam had already planned an internship abroad but, she really

almost every aspect of the company: "I worked with people in the

wanted to work for ECCO. So after returning from a six-month

production line, saw how the factories worked in different parts

internship in Paris, she began working for ECCO Leather in Dongen.

of the world and how the implementation of new techniques

"Leather is a very specific material. It's natural and it's cool and very

optimised our production processes". It gave Tina an understanding

hard to work with without having machines", she says.

of shoemaking and how all departments contribute to this and, perhaps even more importantly, it showed Tina how proud ECCO

Sam now works as a Junior Designer at ECCO Leather — a place

employees are, around the world, to be a part of the company.

she's happy to call her workplace: "ECCO Leather itself is different from other companies. It is very open. Most other tanneries don't

"I was given the nickname ECCO-Tina by my friends. Mostly

even have a design team. It's like a big playground where you

because I tend to talk a lot about the company. I genuinely have a

can do anything you've ever dreamed of. Not only learning about

lot of exciting stuff from my work that I'd like people to know about

leather but, also experimenting with the material is very exciting".

and I love to talk about the comfort and style of the shoes. It's truly

Recently, Sam developed IKON; a leather with metal inside.

amazing that ECCO is the only major shoe company to own and operate both production and retail facilities and have so many

"I get my inspiration from anywhere. I might go to a museum or

dedicated employees", she says.

on holiday and see stuff and think about how I can 'leatherise' it. It is always important that it still looks like leather. It feels like I'm

Today, Tina works as Operational Manager at the Concept Lab

discovering a new world. The combination of the basic and the

in Tønder. Part of Tina's job is to support other departments by

unknown. You also see how the materials transfer into a product. In

providing necessary information about the shoes being developed

most companies, you might make the material, but then it leaves

and communicate with all departments from sales to production.

before you ever see or touch the products. We can hand-craft the

"There is great diversity in what I'm doing and I'm surrounded

leather and make the end product", she says.

by happy and competent people who all strive to do the best possible for ECCO". — 55 —

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 017

ROLL WITH ME Jacob Dinesen, a rising young Danish music star, rocks his acoustic guitar and writes songs about everyday life.

ROLL WITH JACOB DINESEN

songwriter and performer in the broad landscape

Jacob Dinesen, a 21-year-old Danish rising star from the southern

of folk/rock/Americana and pop music. His very

part of Denmark, managed to complete one-and-a-half month

first album featured two radio hit songs: "Dancing

at university studying English before he was offered a recording

Devil" and "Will You Stay". Dinesen's breakthrough

contract in 2015. He opted out of university and jumped into a full-

came with the song "Roll with Me" from his second

time music career at only 20 years old. Since then, Jacob Dinesen

album "Brace Against The Storm", released in

has been rolling on a wave of success thanks to his great talent as a

November 2016. Jacob Dinesen became an awarded artist, appearing in TV shows and playing an increasing amount of concerts. Now England, Scotland, Germany and a number of other countries outside of Denmark have shown interest in the tone of Dinesen's hoarse, rocking vocals. In December 2016, Jacob Dinesen formed his present band "Jacob Dinesen" or, as Jacob puts it, "Jacob and the Disciples". The band includes guitarist Rasmus Rydahl, bassist Jens Pilgaard, and drummer Jonas Sandbjerg. Often people call us strange names, but our real band name is simply "Jacob Dinesen". The band's organic, guitar-driven

ORGANIC, GUITAR-DRIVEN SOUND, IN COMBINATION WITH A BLUES RHYTHM AND AN ACCENTUATED BACKBEAT FROM THE DRUMS, IS DEEPLY ROOTED IN A FUSION OF FOLK/ROCK/AMERICANA AND POP MUSIC AND HAS EARNED DINESEN RECOGNITION.

JACOB DINESEN DANISH SINGER-SONGWRITER

PHOTO: ANNA MARÍN PHOTOGRAPHY

— 57 —

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 017

WHEN JACOB DINESEN WAS 12 YEARS OLD, HE GOT HIS FIRST GUITAR FOR CHRISTMAS AND HAS BEEN PLAYING EVER SINCE, SOMETIMES PRACTISING UP TO EIGHT HOURS A DAY.

"JACOB DINESEN", OR, AS JACOB PUTS IT, "JACOB AND THE DISCIPLES", IS MADE UP OF GUITARIST RASMUS RYDAHL, BASSIST JENS PILGAARD, AND DRUMMER JONAS SANDBJERG.

sound, in combination with a blues rhythm and an accentuated backbeat from the drums, is deeply rooted in a fusion of folk/rock/ Americana and pop music, and it has earned Dinesen recognition as one of the new rising stars in the music world. Dinesen's soft Danish music, representative of the slow and down-to-earth lifestyle of his native Sønderjylland (the southern part of Denmark), strong and meaningful lyrics about what life is all about, and inspiration from a wide variety of childhood idols like Leonard Cohen, AC/DC and Led Zeppelin have defined Jacob Dinesen's unique artistic profile. "My family is my parents and a brother who is 7 years younger. I used to have in-depth discussions about music with my parents, for whom music was almost a religion. We would discuss lyrics, styles of music and artists. Sometimes vigorously turning me into

DINESEN'S ROCK GUITAR RIFF

the music nerd of the family". Ironically, neither of Dinesen's parents

Jacob Dinesen reveals his soul to the world

played an instrument, nor did they send their talented son to music

through poetry and song, his deep and timeless

classes. "My brother, on the contrary, was not interested in music at

humanity touching our very core. Dinesen takes

all. He is the cool one", Jacob smiles, saying that his brother plays

his music back to its roots, not least the rock-and-

football and is "red hot" on the Playstation.

roll part. A music genre representing a lifestyle of doing what you want and living your life the way

A GUITAR FOR CHRISTMAS

you wish to. Freedom of speech and expression.

Dinesen started playing the piano as a little boy. When he was

As a singer-songwriter, Jacob pays extra atten-

12 years old, he got a guitar for Christmas, something which had

tion to the lyrics for all his songs, as he wants to

been on his wish list for a long time. It turned out to be the first step

provide a message about life. "I have always

towards a major international career as a songwriter and artist.

been inspired by Danish artists like C. V. Jørgensen,

"I practised eight hours a day. I played so much that my fingers

whose international equivalent is Leonard Cohen.

turned both black and blue at times. Four of the eight hours I

I also like AC/DC and Led Zeppelin. I write about

played in front of a mirror to find the coolest poses, imagining that

everyday themes and I love honesty in storytelling.

I was standing in front of an audience on a stage", says Dinesen,

I don't like writing lyrics about the big emotions

laughing. Understated humility characterises the Jacob Dinesen

that can be too remote from a normal person's

brand. He describes himself as the humble rock-and-roller and

life. I like to write based on reality. I compose

singer-songwriter who finds so much joy in music that he could

with my guitar. My mentor, the British Allan Taylor,

write ten albums just about his love for music. Asked about his

whom I met at the Tønder Festival, has taught me

long-term vision, he replies that as long as he can play music and

to ask myself what the song I am writing does for

perform, he is more than happy. He takes one day at a time and

me, and eventually for my audience. I want to

enjoys life as it is right now. If it continues like this, Dinesen could not

play for people to make them happy. That is my

be any happier. Dinesen has one specific long-term wish, however,

primary goal.

and that is to grow a nicer beard. Admittedly, it would go well with his large, melancholic eyes, rockabilly hairdo, black leather jacket,

There is no doubt that Jacob Dinesen's music will

earrings, and the guitar hanging around the neck … casually.

resonate for many years to come.

A LONE WOLF Life on the road is a lonely life. "I often feel like a lone wolf", says Jacob, indicating that this may be the only downside of the music business. "Roll with Me" is about always being on tour, making having a love life difficult. However, we hope the improved beard will secure Dinesen a long-lasting love life. "I did not like going to school. I only liked school when I was allowed to give a concert. When I was 12 or 13, I played for the first time with my band in a local pub. The performance was absolutely horrible, but surprisingly it led to a lot of other gigs. Eventually I was the most popular local name in the southern part of Denmark and performed at the Tønder Festival, the most important music scene in the area, where I met Allan Taylor, who has been my mentor ever since". — 59 —

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 017

A FAMILY GAME

LIKE NO OTHER One of the greatest characteristics of golf is that

His father, however, is not the only family member

it brings together people of all ages, sometimes

to have shared in his success, with his brother

several generations apart. In particular, it's a life-

Luckie caddying for him in the 2014 U.S. Open

long family game that can be played by grand-

at the iconic Pinehurst. The game of golf really

daughters, granddads and everyone in between.

has brought the Kaufman family closer together, and that's not likely to change anytime soon.

Smylie Kaufman, a PGA Tour starlet who burst

"My father and grandfather taught me not only

onto the scene when he won his maiden title at

how to play the game, but also the values that

the Shriners Hospitals for Children Open in 2015,

are fundamental to both being successful and

might be one of the hottest names in golf right

competing in the right spirit. "The passion they

now, but he certainly hasn't forgotten his roots.

have for innovation and their determination to produce the best golf shoes in the world fill me

Having learnt the game from his father, Jeff,

with confidence every time I lace up".

and grandfather, Alan, Smylie chose to attend Louisiana State University, a school that both his

Having put together one of the brightest rookie

father and mother, Pam, also attended. Jeff has

seasons on the PGA Tour last year, Smylie Kaufman

been by his son's side for many of his greatest

has the golfing world at his feet. A blistering final

achievements on the golf course, the highlight

round 61 saw him pick up his maiden PGA Tour title

being when he caddied for Smylie as he won

at the Shriners Hospitals for Children Open, and he

the prestigious Alabama Amateur Championship

would go on to play in the final pairing on Sunday

back in 2011.

in his first-ever Masters Tournament at Augusta National. Known as much for his bubbly, fun-loving attitude as for his accomplished golf game, Smylie looks set to be a household name in the upper echelons of the game for years to come.

SMYLIE RELIES ON OUR CLASSIC LUX AND S-DRIVE SHOES THROUGHOUT HIS GRUELLING SCHEDULE. THEY ALLOW HIM TO FEEL COMFORTABLE, LOOK SHARP AND COMPETE WEEK IN AND WEEK OUT AT THE HIGHEST LEVEL.

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AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 017

ECCO S-DRIVE

STEPPING OUT OF THE ORDINARY

With its striking design, including an asymmetrical closure system, the ECCO S-DRIVE will appeal to those who are as happy ripping up convention as they are ripping the ball down the fairway. Beyond its good looks, this is also a golf shoe that does not feel or perform like a regular or ordinary golf shoe â&#x20AC;&#x201D; with an asymmet-

This is a first for us, and quite possibly a first for the sport: a golf shoe that does not look like a golf shoe.

rical closure system enabling a revolutionary snug fit, resulting in astounding support, stability and comfort throughout your round. In a further break from the norm, the ECCO S-DRIVE's design is influenced by sports other than golf, including a last that will offer you exceptional support from first tee to eighteenth green.

Such a new and unexpected link between golfers and other athletes is only possible because of our heritage of craftsmanship, combined with our experience of producing shoes for a range of sports and our culture of innovation and imaginative thinking.

THE MOST UNCONVENTIONAL AND INNOVATIVE OF GOLF SHOES. THE ECCO S-DRIVE FEATURES AN ASYMMETRICAL CLOSURE SYSTEM THAT GIVES A REVOLUTIONARY SNUG FIT, RESULTING IN ASTOUNDING SUPPORT, STABILITY AND COMFORT. WITH THE DESIGN INFLUENCED BY OTHER SPORTS, THE SHOE HAS A LAST THAT OFFERS EXCEPTIONAL SUPPORT

Available in textile or leather, the textile model combines that last with a lightweight mesh upper, with the added support of a seamless bonded textile structure. The leather shoe has an upper design that combines perforated leather and textile, enhancing breathability and comfort. In both the textile and the leather shoes, the upper has been treated with HYDROMAX® to provide resistance against weather and perspiration. — 63 —

THROUGHOUT YOUR ROUND. AVAILABLE IN TEXTILE OR LEATHER.

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 017

GUARDIANS OF

GROWING FEET

"Nothing celebrates perpetual natural motion like kids at play, and they deserve shoes that keep them warm and protected so they can play freely and explore without limits".

One of the "guardians of growing feet" is kids' footwear specialist Simone Wahrheit. Simone created the ECCO SNOW MOUNTAIN boot to allow children to make the most of every snowfall. SIMONE WAHRHEIT, FOOTWEAR SPECIALIST, ECCO KIDS

Nothing frees a child's imagination and brings out their mischievous and adventurous side like playing in the snow. Whether kids are sledding, pelting their friends with snowballs or giving a snowman a carrot for a nose, they can't fail to be free and happy and expe-

LISTENING TO KIDS AND THEIR PARENTS

rience that feeling of joy and abandon. Just so long as they are

When designing our children's shoes, we actively seek the views of

wearing a boot that allows them to have outdoor fun without limits.

kids and their parents. "We are constantly getting feedback from parents and children, and we use this to improve our designs", says

It was that desire, wanting to create footwear that allowed chil-

Simone. "Within the ECCO Kids business unit, we are all parents

dren to make the most of every snowfall, or to stroll on an icy

ourselves, and so we have real-life experience of kids' shoes that is

city pavement with confidence, that inspired the design of the

incorporated into the details and functions of our designs".

stylish ECCO SNOW MOUNTAIN boot. Part of our new ECCO Kids snow boot collection for Autumn/Winter 2017, the ECCO SNOW

A highly experienced designer who has worked for ECCO since

MOUNTAIN doesn't compromise on safety, performance, comfort

2001, Simone is energised by the challenge of creating children's

or style, thereby removing any possible restraints on fun and explo-

shoes that are both fashionable and functional. "Designing kids'

ration. "Kids want to have fun, and they should. Being outdoors,

shoes is so diverse, so it never gets boring. As a designer, you're

they need shoes that keep them warm and protected so they

constantly looking for inspiration, and that requires you to be

can go and play and explore whatever they want", says Simone

open-minded. We always walk around with our eyes wide open.

Wahrheit, lead designer of this snow boot group.

Anything could be an inspiration for my work — it could be a film, a toy, a certain item of clothing or sport".

"As well as being extremely well insulated, the ECCO SNOW MOUNTAIN has an extraordinarily good grip, even when the

A TEAM OF EXPERTS

ground is covered with snow and ice. The reflective material at

Creating the ECCO SNOW MOUNTAIN boot was a collaborative

the back of the heel will make kids easier to spot if cars approach.

exercise with our other experts in children's feet. "The process of

Safety and outdoor fun without limits — that was the thought we

developing a new group of shoes can take months of intense dis-

turned into a boot".

cussions as well as an exciting exchange of impulses, ideas and know-how within the ECCO Kids team", Simone says. "A successful

KEEPING TOES COSY AND CONTENT

product is always the result of successful teamwork from everyone

"Guardians of little feet" is how they see themselves in our ECCO

in the business unit, with designers sparring with marketing col-

Kids team, their every thought consumed by designing and craf-

leagues and members of the commercial team. We are very satis-

ting shoes that parents will trust and children will love. In addition

fied with the close connection that we have, and we're extremely

to the generous fit and a new outer sole with an improved grip,

proud of what we have created here with this special ECCO Kids

the ECCO SNOW MOUNTAIN incorporates fashionable purple and

snow boot collection".

silver or blue designs with reflective details. Toes will be kept cosy and content throughout the winter months, with the foot insulated

In the ECCO SNOW MOUNTAIN, Simone and her colleagues have

by a warm lining and the GORE-TEX® comfort technology. All in all,

designed and lovingly crafted a boot that will have children even

this is the ideal boot for little adventurers in the snow and ice.

more excited about the first snowfall of winter. — 65 —

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 017

ECCO HIGHLIGHTS

1980

ECCO DEBUTS DIRECT INJECTION (DiP) TECHNOLOGY

1963 ECCO FOUNDED IN BREDEBRO, DENMARK

ECCO was founded in 1963 by the ambitious shoemaker Karl Toosbuy. He believed "form should follow function", and with his passion for making comfortable shoes for an active lifestyle, he moved his family to the small town of Bredebro, Denmark to begin his entrepreneurial venture as a Danish shoe manufacturer.

ECCO introduces Direct Injection Production (DiP) by debuting a new process that bonds soles right onto the uppers in one simple process. This new technology becomes the foundation for comfort and flexibility in ECCO shoes, revolutionising shoe manufacturing.

1981 ECCO SOFT COLLECTION UNVEILED

The ECCO SOFT collection is unveiled, representing the first in a new generation of lightweight, premium leather, athleisure shoes. It is an instant classic due to its clean lines and timeless style, ranking as the best-selling shoe in ECCO's history, and more than 30 years later it remains a consumer hit.

2009

ECCO INTRODUCES BIOM® NATURAL MOTION® TECHNOLOGY ECCO debuts BIOM® "biomechanical optimisation" technology. Rigorously tested by world champion triathletes, BIOM® Natural Motion® technology encourages the feet and lower legs to strengthen with every step and guides the foot to activate its own natural systems for shock absorption and motion.

2010

ECCO PLAYS GOLF WITH FRED COUPLES

2013

Pro golfer Fred Couples wears the ECCO STREET, a spikeless hybrid golf shoe, at the Masters Tournament in Augusta, GA. His amazing performance in the tournament and spotlight on his shoes drives significant popularity for the hybrid category of golf footwear. ECCO was the first to introduce a hybrid sport shoe, which is now worn by millions of golf enthusiasts around the world.

ECCO CELEBRATES 50 YEARS OF SHOEMAKING

From humble beginnings in the rural town of Bredebro, Denmark to a global leader in the footwear industry, ECCO celebrates 50 years of passionate shoemaking. With a heritage spanning 5 decades, ECCO has grown its distribution network into 90 countries, with more than 350 million pairs of shoes produced and 1,000 stores opened worldwide.

2016 ECCO LAUNCHES NEW COMFORT HEEL

ECCO introduces "heels that look as good as they feel" with the launch of the new ECCO SHAPE collection. The innovative SHAPE heel technology allows the foot to sit lower inside the base of the heel, providing all-day comfort while maintaining an elegant silhouette.

WHERE TO FIND US APAC Australia China Hong Kong Indonesia Japan Korea Macau Malaysia Mongolia New Zealand Philippines Singapore Taiwan Thailand Vietnam

EAM Canada USA EMEA Afghanistan Andorra Armenia Austria Azerbaijan Bahrain Belarus Belgium Bosnia & Herzegovina Bulgaria Croatia Cyprus

Czech Republic Denmark Egypt Estonia Faroe Islands Finland France Georgia Germany Gibraltar Greece Greenland Hungary Iceland Iran Iraq Ireland

Israel Italy Jersey Jordan Kazakhstan Kuwait Kyrgyzstan Latvia Lebanon Lithuania Luxemburg Malta Moldova Morocco Netherlands Norway Oman

Poland Portugal Qatar Romania Russia Saudi Arabia Slovakia Slovenia South Africa Spain Sweden Switzerland Turkey UK Ukraine United Arab Emirates Uzbekistan

ABOUT ECCO ECCO is one of the world's leading shoe brands combining style and comfort. ECCO's success is built on products with a great fit and top-quality leathers. ECCO owns and manages every aspect of the value chain, from tanneries and shoe manufacturing to wholesale and retail activities. ECCO's products are sold in 88 countries at over 2,000 ECCO shops and more than 14,000 sales points. ECCO is family-owned, founded in Denmark in 1963, and it employs more than 20,000 people worldwide.

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C O R K S P H E R E â&#x201E;¢ S U S P E N D E D

F O O T B E D

FEATURED IN THE ALL NEW ECCO KINHIN SERIES