Traveling the Oregon Coast

By Chelsea Gillespie

Waves crash faintly as the first light peeks into our teardrop trailer. Slowly, gently, I pull myself up, so as to not wake our toddler, who was draped over me all night. The aluminum door, drenched in sea spray, creaks as I push it open to reach the kitchen out back. The ocean breeze greets my cheek just before my toes touch the sand. The warmth of sleep, the baby, and the blanket are all gone in an instant and I’m up.

I see the fog climbing down the coastal cliffs onto the beach campground before it settles. The weather changes in an instant here, and can completely alter the mood of the day. But that’s why we travel, right? For ocean wake-up calls and coastal coffee in 50-degree weather with 20-mile-per-hour winds off the Pacific. Whether in fog or full sun, the Oregon coast is mystical, magical, and wild.

How do we know? We sold our house to purchase a teardrop and explore the wild west while we searched for a new home base. Our first stop was the Oregon coast, and it was all we hoped for and more.

Pro Tips

■ Summer is peak tourist season, and camping reservations are highly encouraged. October can get busy with the salmon migration bringing fishmongers.

■ Boondocking isn’t easy on the coast. Some casinos allow short stays, and while BLM and National Forest land is available, it’s hard to reach.

■ The weather is unpredictable. Pack layers and waterproof jackets. Prepare for mist when the fog rolls in.

Why Oregon?

From Astoria to Brookings, every bit of the 363 miles of coastline is a sight to behold. You could sprint the entire coast in about eight hours, but you’ll want to take your sweet time and soak in every bit of wildness the Oregon coast has to offer. The “People’s Coast of Oregon” is all about free, open, and accessible beaches for residents and visitors alike.

Known for delectable seafood, Oregon also boasts a world-class beer and wine scene. The Oregon Coast Public Art Trail showcases public galleries, shops, murals, statues, and sculptures. The coastal estuaries are rich with wildlife, the mountains are covered in mystical old-growth forests, the hills are alive with wildflowers, and undeveloped beaches delight and inspire.

Our biggest piece of advice as you plan your trip is to not rush it. Let the trip come to you. You may spend hours walking among cliffside wildflowers and blackberry bushes or venturing into a prehistoric forest that teleports you to a land before time. Make time to revel in the untouched wilderness. You won’t regret it.

Favorite Activites

Enjoy the drive.

The views from the roadside cliffs dazzle as you overlook sea stack spires and boulders that melt into the untamed beaches. The forests tower over the road into the morning mist. The drive is as delightful as the scenery, with incredible twists and turns, cool roadside attractions, and awe-inspiring bridges.

Dig your toes in the sand, adventure-style.

This isn’t Malibu! While you definitely can choose to sunbathe sometimes, that’s probably not why you’re here. Oregon’s beaches are incredible for tide-pooling, watching wildlife, and sightseeing. Sea lions, seals, whales, and turtles are abundant. Purple and orange sea stars cling to the coastal boulders while hundreds of seabirds nest on the beach. The ocean carves caves and tunnels out of solid rock. Here, the beach is built for adventure.

Sample the local fare.

Coastal Oregon is a foodie’s paradise. Enjoy buttery oysters in Bandon. Go clamming for your dinner in Coos Bay. Savor sweet smoked chinook salmon in Yachats. Sample world-famous Tillamook cheddar straight from the factory. For drinks, choose from pioneer Rogue beers or the impeccable pinots of the Medford and Willamette valleys. And visit the farms in the fertile coastal valleys for the best produce you can get. Buying local means you’ll find food as it should be: simple, seasonal, and fresh.

Hike the Coastal Cliffs.

Coastal Oregon is a hiker’s dream. We suggest using AllTrails to research hikes in the area you’re visiting. Ocean weather can drastically change the feel of the experience, so be flexible and have backup plans. That said, hiking in the coastal mist is amazing, even if the views are hampered by fog.

Go on an off-road adventure.

There are some great off-road beaches in Oregon, so drop your RV and take your 4x4. Pick up a permit at one of 95 licensing locations and you can enjoy two years of dune-driving anywhere in the state.

We weaved our way through sea stacks and enjoyed an off-road sunset in Port Orford. In Cape Kiwanda, we spent the day on the beach, exploring the largest sand dunes on the West Coast. The most popular region for ATVs is the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area, one of the world’s largest expanses of coastal dunes.

How to Choose Your Route

We chose to start in the south as we left the redwoods of Northern California. Heading north, the undeveloped ruggedness of the southern coast transitions from small fishing communities to a central coast characterized by massive windswept dunes and a few larger towns like Coos Bay. Both the south and central regions make for some wonderful hiking above uncrowded state beaches. The North Coast is more developed, with shopping, restaurants, attractions, and mid-sized coastal cities. History and nature collide on the northern Oregon Coast at the Lewis and Clark National Historical Park, a must-see.

Top Coastal Hikes

■ Sister’s Rock: This is such an incredible hike we did it twice—once in fog while thousands of seabirds nested in the cove and, waves explode through the cave at high tide, making another unique feature. The two experiences were totally different.

■ Samuel Boardman Scenic Corridor: This 12-mile stretch of imposing overlooks and gnarly but rewarding trails is a nature-lover’s dream. Be prepared to climb! Our favorite was Arch rock.

■ God’s Thumb: Take the Knoll Trail and hope for good weather. The views are spectacular.

■ Cape Perpetua: This cape boasts more than 20 miles of trails in the Siuslaw National Forest. Many overlooks sit hundreds of feet above the water.

■ Cape Kiwanda: Drive on the beach and climb a 250-foottall sand dune to take in this amazing view. If the weather is right, you can see hang gliders over the coast.

Must-See Towns, South to North

■ Brookings: Stock up on supplies while visiting Harris Beach and the beautiful Samuel Boardman Scenic Roadway. The city also offers some fun eateries and breweries.

■ Gold Beach: Home to the amazing Honey Bear by the Sea RV park, with clean amenities and private beach access. Visit Cape Blanco, Sisters Rock, Humbug Mountain, the prehistoric gardens, or the small fishing village of Port Orford.

■ Historic Bandon: A fantastic seaport village surrounded by protected natural areas. Explore Old Town, which offers many delectable seafood options, fun art galleries, and a delicious local cheese production called Face Rock Creamery.

■ Coos Bay: Stroll the boardwalk, explore cranberry bogs, visit the Clausen Oyster Farm, go clamming in the estuary, or ride up and down 500-foot-tall sand dunes.

■ Florence: Home to an Old Town and caves full of sea lions.

■ Yachats: A unique town full of art galleries, restaurants, magnificent views, and loads of wildlife.

■ Newport: A funky town that’s home to an aquarium, Oregon’s tallest lighthouse, and the famous Rogue Brewery.

■ Depoe Bay: The whale-watching capital of Oregon!

■ Pacific City: Adjacent to Cape Kiwanda. Enjoy an oceanside beer at Pelican Brewing and a beach bonfire after.

■ Tillamook: Gateway to the Three Cape scenic driving loop, a kayaker’s paradise, and home to world-famous Tillamook Cheese.

■ Rockaway Beach: Take the Oregon Coast Scenic Railroad, go crabbing at Kelly’s Brighton Marina, or enjoy 7 miles of beaches.

■ Cannon Beach: Touristy, but worth it. Only 80 miles from Portland, this charming seaside gem boasts shopping venues, a variety of cuisine, and a walkable downtown adorned with colorful flowers. Don’t miss Haystack Rock, arguably the most iconic sight in the Pacific Northwest.

Whether you choose to enjoy the untamed wilderness of the south, the authentic seaside villages of the central region, or the more affluent North Coast scene, the magic of the Oregon coast is sure to leave you in awe. With so many beautiful campgrounds along the way, it will be an RV trip you’ll never forget! ■

Follow Chelsea’s travels on Instagram @unsettledown.