Croatia Blues

WORDS —CAROLINE CLEGGWORLD JOURNEYS

Azure, turquoise, aquamarine, sapphire... you may never see as many shades of blue than there are in the Adriatic.

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Add to that small villages of whitewashed houses andterracotta roofs, olive groves and vineyards on rockylandscapes, picture-perfect islands, and ancient walledcities oozing with history, and you have Croatia.

To best experience Croatia, board a traditional sailing ship with crew and set off along the coast, dropping anchor in a local village for dinner in a taverna. Foodies will delight in the fresh seafood and other tasty delicacies, often cooked by majka (mother) and served by other family members keen to chat. Spend your days swimming in crystal clear waters off the boat, and explore a different island each day.

Dubrovnik is a good starting point. Impressive stone plazas, tiny, cobbled streets, and outdoor cafes make it a great place to explore on foot – make sure you walk atop the ancient city walls for views over the terracotta roofs. You may stumble across one of the first pharmacies in Europe, dating back to 1317 and still in operation today! Here you can purchase moisturisers made from original Franciscan recipes using local herbs. When your walking legs tire, it’s not hard to find a welcoming bar up a tiny side street where sitting in the shade with a cool drink is the perfect remedy.

Said to be the birthplace of Marco Polo, Korčula is a pictureperfect island with a strong arts and culture heritage. The old walled town is as picturesque as it is fascinating, and beyond the town are dense pine forests, olive groves and secluded bays beckoning you to swim.

some delicious homemade wine and as the afternoon turns into evening, the songs start, and a great night is had by all! Hvar’s ancient town of Stari Grad is the oldest town in Croatia, dating back to 384 BC, its deep bay still providing a safe harbour and warm welcome today.

Not far from Hvar is the island of Brač, with its delightful town of Bol, and the Insta-famous fine pebble beach of Zlatni Rat. The shape of this promontory beach changes regularly according to prevailing currents and winds, and the waters are so clear you can often see the seabed rocks at least 10m deep. Some serious downtime can be spent here, on the beach, and in the many harbourside bars and cafes.

Back on the mainland, your cruise may well end on a high in Split. A lively city, it has grown over the centuries on top of and around a palace built by the Roman emperor Diocletian who settled here in the year 305. For us Kiwis who marvel at anything older than a century, the history of this place, around which modern life carries on, is like no other place you’ve seen.

If you can manage to drag your gaze away from the coast for a moment, you will also discover picturesque rural areas, the glorious Plitvice Lakes National Park and up to 10 UNESCO World Heritage sites. A little reminder that there is perhaps more to Croatia than stunning beaches and waters of myriad shades of blue.

The island of Hvar offers ancient towns, fragrant fields of lavender, centuries-old olive groves and vineyards. Of course, where there are vineyards, there is wine! Spend some time at one of the many small inns on the island – you’ll get to taste