the green zine by Selina Jean Scott

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EDITORIAL NOTE – RECYCLE, REPAIR, RE-LOVE In recent years, there has been a surge of interest in sustainable fashion. Not coincidentally, 2020 has seen exponential growth in the number of eco-friendly companies on the market. 2019 was called ‘the year of awakening’ by the State of Fashion Report, with consumers asking for greater transparency and accountability from fashion brands. From the explosion in popularity of charities and uptake in recycle, repair and re-love schemes to the worldwide rejection of single-use-plastics, 2019 paved the way for a new decade of sustainable fashion. Here are some of the key fashion trends of 2020 that represent some of the currents likely to dominate the months ahead:

The Rise of Recycle

The Rise of Repair

Going to a charity shop may once have been considered a major fashion faux pas! In 2020, however influencers, A-list actors and celebrities started to revamp second-hand clothing! We all look to Sarah Jessica Parker from Sex and the City as a fashion icon. She has worn some of the most expensive clothes on sets, yet finds the time to shop second hand. On her latest show “Divorce”, she shared that many of her outfits were found at thrift stores in New York and tailored to fit. In the fight against waste, charity shops are a god sent. Not only do they reject fast fashion, they simultaneously rescue our clothes destined for landfill

Repair is a process of transforming old clothes into new ones of better quality and value. We often think sustainable outfits are the least exciting. However, upcyling and repairing can give existing clothes new life by altering their fit, style or colour. Here are just three celebrities that embraced their love of Repair. While on tour in 2011, Britney Spears Tweeted a picture of herself having a sewing lesson with her staff. Queen of pop Gwen Stefani reportedly said sewing runs in her family. Her grandmother sews and when she got older Gwen was also making her own clothes. She now has successful clothing lines of her own. Even men can sew – George Clooney reportedly came to one of his girl friends’ rescue recently when her zip broke on her dress. Who would have thought it?

The Rise of Re-Love By extension, the trend of Re-Love accelerated in 2019 and most definitely increase in 2020. In a time where style is an expression of identity, it can be challenging to imagine a life without changing outfits. Yet, learning how to recycle, repair and re-love can lead to more longevity and less spending. Surely we can have new found appeal for wearing items more than once or twice. In this Green Zine issue, art and photography come together to celebrate innovative forms of fashion sustainability! It considers the influence of artists Piet Mondrian and Frida Kahlo on collections and of Rahel Guiragossian, burgeoning Lebanese designer, for creating pieces for years to come. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Fashion should be an investment like buying an art piece, not something that will eventually be thrown out.â&#x20AC;? As Guiragossian declares, this Zine offers clients a sense of exclusivity, with each of its collections fashioned from a different angle so no two are the same. To create urgency on sustainability, collections show models with drapes of plastic to show fabric waste and our responsibility to think unconventionally and set new standards of fashion behaviour. The collections aim to reduce waste to a minimum by embracing the Recycle, Repair Re-Love motto.

content

Frida Kahloâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s Gardens

Buoyant Botanicals

Textile Waste

Retro Boxes

Drastic Plastic

Timeless Fashion

Is this the next fashion movement?

Colourful Canvas

Pink

Circular Angles

Photography Phoebe Martin Editorial Designer Selina Scott

frida kahloâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s garden

Model Mimi Sameera Designer & Make Up Designer Willow Dante

My collection was inspired by the pre Raphaelite movement and how the artists of the time beautifully depicted the female body and florals. I wanted to paint on the surfaces of my garments and create my own body and floral imagery, as a way of embracing the differences and beauty of all female forms.

All the pieces were designed as slow fashion garments, pieces that you wear and keep for a long time. Many of the fabrics I used were also donated so were in there own way recycled. I like to make sure my practise is as sustainable as possible to avoid contributing to the destruction of our environment.Â

I hope in the future to be able to fine tune my practise to become more sustainable by making more practical garments and trying to continue to recycle fabrics.

buoyant botanicals

Textile Design Emily Hunter @eh.textiledesign

Buoyant Botanicals is a high-street swimwear collection; designed for young girls aged between 1012 years. The capsule collection investigates the use of sustainable substrates and conscious designing. Expressive marks, collage and botanical cut-outs creates an exotic and playful, collection of commercial prints. The designs have been digitally developed and printed onto Recycled Nylon. The fabric used is created from nylon waste found on land-

fills and oceans around the world. It is then transformed into ECONYL regenerated nylon; it‘s exactly the same as brand new nylon and can be recycled, recreated and remoulded again and again.

textile waste

Model Katie Docherty Designer Gracie Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;silva Make up artist Isabelle Rose

Exploring textile waste and the lack transparency of brands within the fashion industry. The sleeve dress is entirely hand stitched and upcycled from damaged cashmere jumpers.

retro boxes

Model Anya Pasternack Stylist Emily Fraser Make up artist Hannah cannon

drastic plastic

Model Lucie diserio Set designer Ellie Wildman & Dan Miskimmon Make up artist Hannah Cannon

Working with the theme of plastic throughout the series I used dust sheets to emulate a wispy theme by blowing fans in between them to make them swallow up the model. The initial inspiration for this piece came from the idea of dust sheets being used to cover a personâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s furniture if they moved house or decorated. I wanted to link this theme in with how we are quite literally covering our planet in layers of plastic which iscausing an extreme environmental pro-

blem. Although we used large amounts of plastic to make a bold statement we considered how we would reuse and dispose of the set props, each crew member took a part of the props home to either reuse or up cycle.

Some of the outfits consists of a mixture of up cycled vintage on loan from Sue Ryder vintage charity shop and Zaraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sustainability range as well as a clear plastic poncho. I wanted to make the model look as though she was being swallowed /engulfed in the plastic, as though she couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t breathe. The idea for this look came from some reading up I did on the result of air pollution from plastic. Globally, we use 160,000 plastic bags every second and the result of this is that the nonbiodegradable plastic only photo-degrades, and a major source

of dioxin is PVC. This can affect our fertility, disrupt our endocrine glands, birth defects and other health problems. I wanted to emulate the idea of air pollution by making the plastic bags look like clouds. To do this, the crew pulled together all of the white plastic bags we could find in our houses and blew them in front of a fan. With a highshutterspeed, the photographer was able to capture an ethereal, wispy image with the bags flowing continuously around the model on a blue backdrop as if suspended in air.

In one image cling film was wrapped around the model to emulate a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;fishtailâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; skirt, I wanted the model to actually look like a fish with fins. I really liked how the light began reflecting off of the ripples in the clingfilm and so played around with reflections as though ripples in water. For another look,

I wanted it to seem as though the model was trapped in the fishnet like the tonnes of plastic that get dredged up from the sea in fishnets every day. The effects of disposed of plastic on sea life is tragic and I wanted to elude to the severity of this.

The bold blue puffer coat in one of the images is made of plastic bottles, in the style of PVC from Zaraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sustainability range. We paired this with tights in a different shade of blue and shoes made out of blue bags, emulating factory workers to give a sense of plastic production. When the plastic from our landfills and from packaging carrying plastic components get into our ocean, animals and birds can mistake it for food and ingest it and die from it. I wanted

each image in the series to connect and so I tried to tie in subtle thematic and stylistic motifs to bring a sense of continuity about the body of work. The shoes were tied together by yellow bio-degradable modelling balloons. I directed the model to look straight ahead solemnly at the camera to give a sense of the urgency and prevalence of the severe situation that we are in.

timeless fashion

Model Ruby Lowsley-willams Designer Zlata Alekhno Make up artist Hannah Cannon

Our Purpose For Being Zlata Alekhno is a luxury fashion movement for men and women seeking an ethical and timeless approach to clothing. Alekhno’s mission is to challenge the way we see our world in an era of fastfashion. It’s a sustainable movement which cares for people, nature and the planet.

Our Beliefs & Culture The brand is focused on sustainability at every step. The design process explores innovative ways to nurture the planet and customers. Sustainability runs throughout the culture and this impacts decisions in every part of the business.

All designs are 100% hand-made in UK using organic and ecofriendly fabrics. We also strongly believe that fashion has to be cruelty-free so we do not use any animal derived materials such as fur, leather, silk and wool.

is this the next fashion movement?

Illustrations Phoebe Mckenzie

Climate change as of yet is one of the biggest issues we are faced with. People around the world are trying their best to cut down on waste and within the fashion industry, sustainability has been a big topic on everyone‘s minds. The clothing itself produces so much waste and has been one of the leading issues within climate change. So much waste is produced and items are shipped across the world to stores which produce so much pollution.

One of the biggest fashion names, Vogue, produced their January 2020 Vogue Italia issue as all illustrated images to highlight the environmental impact of photoshoots in print magazines and wanted to make a green impact. „The Italian team wanted to show that art and stunning fashion imagery can be created without causing any costs – travel, shipping or waste – to the environment,“ Condé Nast said in a release. The issue included eight different covers with different artists’ work displayed on the front.

The magazine depicted real-life models wearing Gucci. Each one read: “No photoshoot production was required for the making of this issue.” The illustrations are part of an effort to reduce the environmental cost that comes with staging photoshoots around the world. Initially buying a magazine, you wouldn‘t straight away think that having photographed models on the front covers could have produced so much pollution, but it really does. Just one shoot can

involve several planes, train and car journeys. Lights being switched on for the entirety of the day, food waste from catering services, electricity to charge cameras and phones. Plastic wrapping for the garments and so on. I think that this is a great way of not only reducing waste and highlighting the issues but also giving other creative people a platform to showcase their work. I think that other companies should definitely consider replacing photographs with illustrations to help reduce waste and to promote being sustainable. As you may or may not know, vogue magazines started off with illustrated covers and then later progressed with

photographs within the 20th century so this is nothing we haven‘t seen before. Within my Instagram account (@ phoebe_illustrations) I produce fashion illustrations that do not involve using models. I use image references from websites such as Instagram or Pinterest or I will just do makeup and draw freehand. This process doesn’t produce much waste. The only thing that I will use is the internet and the power to charge my iPad which I use to create my digital illustrations.

colourful canvas

pink

Fashion Designer Taz Dorodi

Taz Dorodi (Tazzidesign), final year fashion student put together this collection of a dream shoot from images found on Pinterest. They are an artist impression of a photoshoot as, due to covid-19, an actual photoshoot could not take place. Growing up as a girl in Iran fashion was always a form of “Protest”. In Iran women who make fashion statements are breaking the law and risk their lives, they use fashion as a form of resistance. I was instantly drawn to the

idea of “Restriction” and how social inequality between men and women is reflected. During the process the idea was to create both masculinity and femininity throughout the collection to fight for women‘s right and to achieve gender equality, a debate that has not yet been spoken or mentioned in any way. I have always been interested in womenswear tailoring and I truly believe: ‚‘What gives a woman more power and visibility than a suit‘‘! The aim was to explore the shifting meaning of ‘’Fashion’’,

Particularly in relation to gender equality and empowering women in society, especially in the workplace. It concentrated on fashion not just as clothes, but as power, and particularly the ‚ equality ‚ in femininity and masculinity it helps to build. It’s still worth remembering that bespoke clothing not only make us look unique but what is more important, fits our

body well and gives is the feeling of absolute comfort. My designs also speak the language of how a strong piece of clothing could speak for its self, and by looking at it you can feel the power and freedom of a woman with no restrictions what so ever.

circular angles

Model Taz Dorodi Stylist Emma Cannon Make up artist Biana Priestley

Here are some of the top tips for making your wardrobe more sustainable: •

It’s okay to repeat. You can mix and match clothes to try a new look every day.

•

Recycle clothes. Wear what you love and support your charity shops by reducing waste.

•

Re-love your closet by setting social media challenges on how to re-invent your wardrobe.

With fashion love,

Phoebe Martin & Selina Scott

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Photography Phoebe Martin Editorial Designer Selina Scott