ALMIGHTY BISTRO

Gluten-Free Is the Way to Be

by JANET FULLWOOD

photography by CHARLENE TAYLOR / CHARM PHOTOGRAPHY

It’s located in an inconspicuous storefront location, tucked next to the sheriff’s office under a big yellow canopy in the bustling El Dorado Hills Town Center. ere’s no sign above, just a banner near the sidewalk, so it might be easy to miss on a first pass.

Almighty Bistro is a boutique eatery with eight tables in the dining room, six seats at the bar, and a few more on the sidewalk that are perfect spots in good weather. But there’s nothing ordinary about the restaurant. After all, it’s not called “Almighty” for nothing.

Owner Nick Dedier, a longtime restaurateur who worked for decades in Napa, San Francisco and elsewhere, also has a fl agship restaurant, Milestone, also located in Town Center. He took a chance on creating something different in Almighty.

“I always wanted to have a small bistro,” he says. “ is was a new concept; a roll of the dice.”

Almighty opened in August 2022. And no, it’s not merely another “farm-to-fork” vegan/vegetarian eatery. It’s got vegetarian/vegan dishes on the menu and everything is organic, locally sourced or otherwise produced with no genetically modified crops. But there’s beef, chicken, pork, and fi sh on the menu, too. e twist is that everything—including focaccia, sandwich buns, moon pies and even some of the beer—is completely gluten-free.

Yes, gluten-free is in part a trendy, “greenwashed” term (gluten-free water, milk, coffee ), but there are reasons behind Dedier’s commitment to what is not only a healthy way of eating, but a necessary one for some.

“A growing plurality of people are requesting food that is gluten-free,” Dedier says. “We’re in the space of building foundational guests who understand what we’re trying to do.”

Gluten is a protein found not just in wheat, rye and barley, but in many other foods, including soy sauce and beer. People with celiac disease, an autoimmune disorder, can die from it, while those who are gluten-sensitive can experience serious digestive distress. In today’s healthy eating environment, even those who can eat anything without issues–including Didier and head chef Joshua Kihm–say they largely avoid it because they just feel healthier that way. ere’s brunch on weekends (don’t miss the cinnamon rolls or “Very Good Berkshire Bacon”), happy hour on weekdays and always a daily plate lunch that includes egg-fried rice, dressed greens and a choice of entrees. (You’ll have to ask about the grassfed loco moco.)

How does gluten-free translate to a restaurant? Well, considering there’s no wheat flour in the ingredient mix, there’s no pasta on the menu. (Dedier refuses to make a gluten-free substitute.) ere’s no refi ned sugar, either (Almighty uses turbinado sugar, made from the fi rst pressing of sugar cane), but there are all kinds of other temptations, including gluten-free breads, muffi ns and pastries made by Flourless Bakery in Placerville. Most produce and animal products are raised by Sonny’s Farm in Cameron Park, which utilizes regenerative and sustainable agriculture methods.

Menu staples include Sterling Caviar from Elverta, (it’s expensive, so save it for special occasions!), Brassica (charred cauliflower with almond chimichurri), baked brie, seared ahi and okonomiyaki (a savory Japanese pancake incorporating cabbage). Seasonal treats include steamed clams, winter risotto and blackened salmon.

As for desserts: When is the last time you had a moon pie? It’s a concoction made from frozen graham cookies and marshmallows, polished in chocolate, and it comes in different fl avors, depending on the season.

Chef Kihm, an El Dorado Hill native who trained in French cuisine and left to work for more than a decade in San Diego restaurants before returning to his hometown, is a “saucier” whose skills play a vital role in the kitchen. One of his favorite dishes: cassoulet, a casserole-type dish made from duck or chicken confit and duck fat, incorporates a medley of white beans, bacon and breadcrumbs. “It’s a nice cozy dish for a nice cozy restaurant,” he says.

Almighty’s menu changes monthly, with everything fresh and seasonal. Of note: ere are at least two gluten-free beers on the menu, Porchlight and Flatland.

Almighty Bistro

4355 Town Center Blvd.; El Dorado Hills (916) 510-1204 almightybistro.com